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“Ke hoʻopaʻa nei ʻo [Denim] i kona kūlana ma ka mākeke,” wahi a Manon Mangin, ke poʻo o nā huahana ʻano ma Denim Première Vision.
ʻOiai ua loaʻa hou i ka ʻoihana denim kona ʻano maikaʻi loa, ua makaʻala hoʻi ia e pili ana i ka waiho ʻana i kāna mau hua āpau i loko o hoʻokahi hīnaʻi e like me ia i hana ai he ʻumi mau makahiki i hala aku nei, i ka wā i hilinaʻi ai ka hapa nui o nā ʻoihana i ke kūʻai aku ʻana o nā jeans ʻili palupalu e hoʻopiha ai i nā kālā.
Ma Denim Première Vision ma Milan i ka Pōʻakolu—ʻo ia ka hanana kino mua ma kahi o ʻelua mau makahiki—ua hōʻike ʻo Mangin i ʻekolu mau kumumanaʻo nui i hoʻopuni i ka ʻoihana lole denim a me nā lole.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin ua hōʻailona ka pūnāwai a me ke kauwela o 2023 i kahi "wahi huli" no ka ʻoihana denim e hoʻomohala i nā manaʻo hybrid hou a me nā ʻano like ʻole i manaʻo ʻole ʻia. ʻO ka hui pū ʻana o nā lole a me ka "ʻano maʻamau ʻole" e hiki ai i ka lole ke ʻoi aku ma mua o kona mau ʻano mua. Ua hoʻohui ʻo ia i ka wā e hoʻonui ai nā hale hana lole i nā lole ma o ka paʻa ʻana o ka paʻakikī, ka palupalu a me ke kahe ʻana, ʻo ke kiko o kēia kau ma ka manaʻo.
Ma Urban Denim, hoʻololi kēia māhele i nā ʻano kaila o nā lole hana kūpono i nā ʻano lole paʻa o kēlā me kēia lā.
Maanei, ua hoʻokumu ʻia ke ʻano o ka hui ʻana o ka hemp, ma muli o ka ikaika kūlohelohe o ke olonā. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin ua hoʻokō ka lole denim maʻamau i hana ʻia me ka pulupulu organik a me kahi ʻano paʻa 3 × 1 i ka makemake o nā mea kūʻai aku no ke ʻano hana. ʻO ka ulana paʻakikī a me ka jacquard me nā olonā mānoanoa e hoʻonui i ka hoihoi paʻakikī. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia ʻo nā ʻaʻahu me nā ʻeke patch he nui a me ka humuhumu nā mea nui i kēia kau, akā ʻaʻole lākou i paʻakikī e like me nā lalo. Hoʻonui ka hoʻopau wai ʻole i ke kumumanaʻo aloha kūlanakauhale.
Hāʻawi pū ʻo Urban Denim i kahi ala ʻoi aku ka nani e wehe ai i ka denim. Hoʻokūpaʻa nā Jeans me ke kāhiko hoʻolālā i ke kahua hana hoʻohālike o ka hana lole. ʻO ka patchwork hoʻomau - inā paha i hana ʻia mai nā lole ʻōpala a i ʻole nā lole hou i hana ʻia mai nā olonā hana hou - he maʻemaʻe a hiki ke hana i kahi hui kala kūlike.
Ma ke ʻano laulā, ʻo ke kūpaʻa ka mea nui o nā kumumanaʻo hou. Hana ʻia ʻo Denim me ka pulupulu hana hou ʻia, ka linen, ka hemp, ka tencel a me ka pulupulu organik, a hui pū ʻia me ka ʻenehana hoʻopau mālama ikehu a me ka mālama wai, ua lilo ia i mea maʻamau hou. Eia nō naʻe, ʻoi aku ka nui o nā lole i hana ʻia me hoʻokahi ʻano fiber wale nō, e hōʻike ana pehea e hiki ai i nā hale hana ke hoʻomaʻalahi i ke kaʻina hana hou i ka hopena o ke ola o ke kapa.
ʻO ke kumuhana ʻelua o Denim Première Vision, ʻo Denim Offshoots, mai ka noi paʻa o nā mea kūʻai aku no ka ʻoluʻolu. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin ʻo ke kumuhana ʻo ia ka "hoʻomaha, kūʻokoʻa a me ka hoʻokuʻu ʻia" a hāʻawi ikaika i ka mahalo i nā lole haʻuki.
ʻO kēia koi no ka ʻoluʻolu a me ke olakino e hoʻoikaika nei i nā hale hana e hoʻonui i nā ʻano denim i ulana ʻia. ʻO nā mea denim i ulana ʻia "ʻaʻole kaupalena" no ka pūnāwai a me ke kauwela o 23 e komo pū ana me nā lole haʻuki, nā lole jogging a me nā pālule pōkole, a me nā ʻaʻahu lole ʻoi.
Ua lilo ka hoʻopili hou ʻana me ke kūlohelohe i mea leʻaleʻa kaulana o nā kānaka he nui, a ke komo nei kēia ʻano i ke ʻano ma nā ʻano like ʻole. ʻO ka lole me ka paʻi wai a me ka ʻili nalu e lawe mai i kahi manaʻo mālie i ka denim. Hāʻawi nā hopena mineral a me nā kala kūlohelohe i ka hōʻiliʻili lepo. I ka hala ʻana o ka manawa, me he mea lā ua mae ka paʻi laser pua akahai. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin he mea nui loa nā hiʻohiʻona i hoʻoulu ʻia e retro no nā "bras kūlanakauhale" a i ʻole nā corsets i hoʻokumu ʻia i ka denim.
ʻO ka denim kaila Spa ka mea e hoʻomaikaʻi ai i nā jeans. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia ʻo ka hui viscose e hāʻawi i ka lole i kahi ʻano ʻili peach, a ʻo nā ʻaʻahu hanu a me nā ʻaʻahu kaila kimono i hana ʻia me nā hui lyocell a me modal e lilo nei i huahana nui o kēia kau.
ʻO ke kolu o ka moʻolelo au, ʻo Enhanced Denim, e uhi ana i nā pae āpau o ka noʻonoʻo mai ka ʻōlinolino nani a hiki i ka "holomua hoʻohiwahiwa".
He kumuhana kaulana ka jacquard kiʻi me nā ʻano organik a me nā ʻano abstract. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia ʻo ke kala kala, ka hopena camouflage a me ka olonā wehe e hoʻolilo i ka lole pulupulu 100% ma ka ʻili i mea nui. ʻO ka organza kala like ma ke kāʻei a me ka ʻeke hope e hoʻohui i kahi ʻālohilohi lahilahi i ka denim. ʻO nā ʻano ʻē aʻe, e like me nā corsets a me nā pālule pihi me nā hoʻokomo organza ma nā lima lima, e hōʻike ana i kahi pā o ka ʻili. "Loaʻa iā ia ka ʻuhane o ka hoʻopilikino holomua," wahi a Mangin.
Hoʻopilikia ka pepeke mileniuma e laha nui ana i ka hoihoi o Gen Z a me nā mea kūʻai ʻōpio. ʻO nā kikoʻī wahine loa—mai nā sequins, nā kristal puʻuwai a me nā lole ʻālohilohi a hiki i nā poni wiwo ʻole a me nā kiʻi holoholona—kūpono no ka poʻe e kū mai ana. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mangin ʻo ke kī ka loaʻa ʻana o nā mea komo a me nā mea hoʻonaninani e hiki ke wehe maʻalahi ʻia no ka hana hou ʻana.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: ʻOkakopa-15-2021