Ua ntej, Cia kuv nug koj ib lo lus nug: ib lub tsho puas muaj ob ntu: ntaub thiab khoom siv?
Tsis yog, cov lus teb tsis yog lawm. Ib lub tsho muaj peb ntu: ntaub, khoom siv thiab sab hauv.
Cov ntaub thiab cov khoom siv tseem ceeb heev, tab sis qhov zoo ntawm ib lub tsho nyob ntawm lub hauv ob sab, vim nws txuas ob yam khoom siv ductile sib txawv kiag li, ntaub thiab cov khoom siv.
Tus nqi pheej yig, tsim nyog rau kev hnav khaub ncaws yog siv cov nplaum hauv ob sab, txawm tias txhua yam ua tes ua, tab sis siv cov nplaum hauv ob sab kuj tseem yuav tsawg dua 2000 yuan tom qab, qib qis ntawm cov nplaum hauv ob sab los ntawm ib lub sijhawm, koj yuav pom tias cov ntaub thiab cov khoom siv yuav tsis haum, rub ib leeg mus rau lwm qhov kev taw qhia, zoo li yog kev sib cais ntawm kev ua si.
Piv txwv li, ib daim ntaub zoo uas YUNAI ua yuav tsum yog ua los ntawm cov plaub mos mos, cov ntaub linen thiab cov plaub hau nees. Hauv ntej, xav tau cov khoom siv ntuj. Lub hom phiaj yog los pab cov ntaub thiab cov khoom siv txav mus los rau qee qhov thaum pab lawv rov pib dua.
Qhov thib ob: txawm hais tias qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub ntawv siv los ntawm ntau yam, tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub tam sim no feem ntau nyob ntawm qhov chaw keeb kwm. Tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub hauv tsev txawv ntawm cov ntaub xa tuaj, uas feem ntau yog los ntawm Ltalis thiab Askiv.
Cov ntaub zoo tshaj plaws hauv ntiaj teb suav nrog: Ermenegildo Zegna, LORO PIANA, VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO, REDA, CERRUTI 1881, YUNAI, uas yog lub tuam txhab Italian wool loj; Nws kuj yog tus qauv ntawm cov ntaub zoo. CHARLES CLAYTON, plaub lub tuam txhab tom ntej yog cov chaw tsim khoom woolen qub tshaj plaws thiab muaj nqis tshaj plaws hauv tebchaws Askiv. Cov npe nrov tshaj plaws ntawm cov ntaub tsho yog tebchaws Askiv THOMAS MASON, Switzerland Alumo, Ltalis MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO thiab lwm yam. Lub khw muag khoom muaj ntau hom ntaub tsho thiab cov ntaub tsho yog lub khw muag khoom tshaj lij heev.
Feem ntau, cov chaw tsim khoom no muaj cov kev cai nruj heev rau cov qauv kev tshaj lij ntawm cov khw muag khoom kev cai. Tsuas yog thaum lawv ncav cuag cov qauv sib xws lawv thiaj li tso cai siv lawv cov ntaub thiab cov cim lag luam. Tsis tas li ntawd, tsis hais koj siv cov ntaub hauv tsev lossis cov ntaub xa tuaj, cov khoom xyaw yog cov plaub mos mos, tau kawg, yuav muaj lwm cov khoom xyaw, xws li cashmere, tab sis cov ntaub zoo yog ua los ntawm cov ntaub ntuj es tsis yog cov khoom siv hluavtaws, tab sis koj tsis tuaj yeem ua qhov kev thov nruj heev rau cov ntaub hauv tsev.
1. Cov ntaub wool worsted ntshiab
Cov ntaub plaub yog hais txog cov ntaub ua los ntawm cov plaub hau lossis cov plaub hau thiab polyester, viscose, acrylic, thiab lwm yam.
Cov plaub yaj worsted yog cov ntaub zoo nkauj ua los ntawm cov plaub yaj ntshiab thiab huv si, uas tuaj yeem sib xyaw nrog qee qhov feem pua ntawm cov tshuaj fiber lossis lwm cov fiber ntuj, thiab ua tiav los ntawm cov khoom siv sib xyaw, sib xyaw, kos duab, tig, xaws, zas xim thiab ua tiav ntau zaus.
Nws muaj qhov yooj ywm zoo uas cov tsiaj cov plaub hau muaj qhov tshwj xeeb, mos, sib txawv ntawm cov plaub hau thiab crape tiv taus kev sib deev, thaum nqus dej lossis hws tom qab kom tseem muaj kev sib deev sov.
Cov khaub ncaws ua tiav lawm ua los ntawm cov ntaub zoo woolen muaj zog thiab yuav tsis deformed ntev. Lawv tshwj xeeb tshaj yog solemn vim tsis muaj aurora. Lawv du thiab du hauv cov qauv, zoo nkauj hauv qhov tsos, crisp thiab crisp, puv kov, classic hauv style, mos thiab ntuj hauv ci thiab lwm yam.
Yog li ntawd, hu ua worsted thiab woolen, sim piav qhia, los ntawm lub kaum sab xis ntawm ob lub ces kaum, ib qho yog saum cov fiber, qhov tod tes yog rau weave, fiber spinning yog 32 thiab siab dua 40, suav cov fiber ntawm du, tsawg dua pob qij txha, ntuj siab ceev, zoo abrasion tsis kam, zoo xis nyob, lwm qhov yog weave, worsted ntaub hauv woven los ntawm cov tshuab textile zoo, tiv thaiv kev tawg fiber, qhov ntom ntom yog siab, woolen ntaub, pob qij txha, yooj yim tawg, ntuj hnav tsis kam sib txawv, qhov ceev tsis zoo.
Cov ntaub wool worsted ntshiab feem ntau yog nyias, nrog rau qhov chaw du thiab cov kab meej.
Lub cev yog crisp, mos thiab elastic.
Tuav cov khoom tom qab loosened, yeej tsis muaj folds, txawm tias muaj me ntsis crease kuj tuaj yeem ploj mus rau hauv ib lub sijhawm luv luv.
Kev txheeb xyuas cov ntaub plaub ntshiab:
Cov ntaub plaub mos mos uas muaj xim ntuj thiab zoo rau kev ua kom sov yog thawj qhov kev xaiv rau kev ua cov khaub ncaws zoo thiab cov tsho loj.
Tab sis tam sim no ntau dua thiab ntau dua cov ntaub zoo li cov plaub mos mos, raws li kev txhim kho ntawm cov thev naus laus zis textile, tau mus txog qib uas feem ntau cov neeg siv khoom nyuaj rau txheeb xyuas, tab sis xim, sov so, kev xav thiab lwm yam tsis zoo li cov ntaub plaub mos mos ntshiab.
Cov hauv qab no qhia txog ntau txoj hauv kev los txheeb xyuas cov ntaub plaub mos mos, rau koj siv rau hauv kev xaiv khaub ncaws thiab hmoov.
Ua ntej, kov.
Cov ntaub plaub mos mos feem ntau zoo li du, cov ntaub plaub ntev nrog rau qhov zoo li du, rov qab ua rau cov plaub hau tingling. Thiab cov tshuaj fiber sib xyaw lossis ntshiab, qee qhov tsis mos, qee qhov mos thiab xoob, thiab xav tias nplaum.
Qhov thib ob, saib xim.
Cov xim ntawm cov ntaub plaub mos mos yog mos thiab ntuj, ci thiab tsis muaj hnub nyoog. Hauv kev sib piv, cov nplaim ntawm cov tshuaj fiber sib xyaw lossis cov tshuaj fiber ntshiab yog tsaus dua, lossis muaj qhov ci ntsa iab.
Peb, saib qhov elasticity.
Tuav daim ntaub kom nruj nrog tes, ces tso nws tam sim ntawd kom pom tias daim ntaub muaj zog npaum li cas. Cov ntaub plaub mos mos rov qab zoo sai sai, tuaj yeem rov qab mus rau nws lub xeev qub, thiab sib xyaw lossis cov khoom siv tshuaj fiber, tsis muaj zog wrinkle, feem ntau ntawm cov cim wrinkle pom tseeb dua, lossis rov qab qeeb.
Plaub. Kev txheeb xyuas qhov kub hnyiab.
Siv ib pawg xov paj, siv hluav taws, cov xov paj rwb ntshiab tsw zoo li cov plaub hau kub hnyiab, cov xov paj tshuaj tsw zoo li cov yas kub hnyiab. Cov khoom me me tom qab hlawv tas, cov khoom siv fiber tshuaj ntau dua.
1. Kev txheeb xyuas cov hauv paus ib leeg.
Siv lub tshuab microscope los saib seb cov plaub hau puas muaj nplai, yog tias cov ntaub ntev ntev, tsuav yog muab cov plaub hau zoo li saum toj no tso ob peb zaug, nws yuav txav mus rau saum lossis nqis (yog xav paub qhov txuj ci no, koj tuaj yeem siv cov plaub hau los ntawm thawj qhov kev sim), yog tias nws yog cov ntaub ib txwm, rho cov hauv paus xov, txiav 2 cm ntawm ob kab lus ua ib txoj xov hauv qab tes plaub lossis tsib, lawv yuav tsis txav.
2. Cov ntaub plaub thiab polyester sib xyaw ua ke
Cov ntaub plaub mos mos sib xyaw ua ke, uas yog cashmere, polyester, spandex, luav plaub thiab lwm yam fibers thiab wool sib xyaw textile fabrics. Wool thiab polyester sib xyaw ntaub, nyob rau hauv lub hnub, qhov chaw muaj lub teeb ci, cov ntaub yog crisp thiab tawv, zoo elasticity, tuav cov ntaub xoob, yuav luag tsis muaj wrinkles.
Kev taw qhia ntawm warp, warp, warp density
— Kev taw qhia ntawm qhov ntev ntawm daim ntaub;
Cov xov sab hu ua warp yarns;
Tus naj npawb ntawm cov xov uas tau teeb tsa hauv 1 nti yog qhov ceev ntawm warp;
Kev taw qhia ntawm Weft, kev sau thiab kev sau ntom ntom
— Kev taw qhia ntawm qhov dav ntawm daim ntaub;
Cov xov paj hu ua weft, thiab tus naj npawb ntawm cov xov hauv ib nti yog qhov ceev ntawm weft.
Qhov Ceev
— Nws yog siv los sawv cev rau tus naj npawb ntawm cov xov paj ib chav ntev ntawm cov ntaub shuttle, feem ntau yog tus naj npawb ntawm cov xov paj hauv 1 nti lossis 10 centimeters. Tuam Tshoj cov qauv hauv tebchaws tau hais tias tus naj npawb ntawm cov xov paj hauv 10 centimeters yog siv los sawv cev rau qhov ceev, tab sis cov tuam txhab textile tseem siv tus naj npawb ntawm cov xov paj hauv 1 nti los sawv cev rau qhov ceev.
Piv txwv li, feem ntau pom "45 × 45/108 × 58" txhais tau tias 45 weft thiab warp yarns nrog qhov ceev ntawm 108 thiab 58 feem.
Dav
— Qhov dav ntawm daim ntaub feem ntau yog qhia ua nti lossis centimeters. Cov uas feem ntau yog 36 nti, 44 nti, 56-60 nti, thiab lwm yam, uas hu ua nqaim, nruab nrab thiab dav, raws li. Cov ntaub siab dua 60 nti yog dav heev, feem ntau hu ua daim ntaub dav.
Feem ntau qhov dav yog cim tom qab qhov ceev. Piv txwv li, yog tias cov ntaub hais hauv: 3 ntxiv nrog qhov dav, nws yuav raug qhia ua "45 × 45/108 × 58/60" ", piv txwv li qhov dav yog 60 nti.
Qhov hnyav
— Feem ntau, qhov hnyav ntawm daim ntaub yog qhov hnyav ntawm daim ntaub hauv square meters. Qhov hnyav ntawm daim ntaub yog qhov qhia txog kev siv tshuab tseem ceeb ntawm cov ntaub knitted, thiab qhov hnyav ntawm daim ntaub woolen feem ntau yog suav tias yog qhov qhia txog kev siv tshuab tseem ceeb ntawm cov ntaub woolen.
Feem ntau, qhov hnyav ntawm denim yog "OZ", uas yog, tus lej ntawm ooj ntawm cov ntaub hnyav ib square yard, xws li 7 ooj, 12 ooj ntawm denim, thiab lwm yam.
Xim los ntawm xov paj
Nyob rau hauv Nyiv, nws hu ua "dyed fabric", uas yog hais txog cov txheej txheem ntawm dyeing cov xov paj lossis filament thiab tom qab ntawd weaving daim ntaub nrog cov xov paj xim. Hom ntaub no hu ua "yarn-dyed cloth". Cov chaw tsim cov ntaub yarn-dyed feem ntau hu ua dyeing thiab weaving factories, xws li denim, thiab feem ntau cov ntaub tsho yog yarn-dyed.
3. Cov ntaub plaub mos mos thiab cov ntaub viscose sib xyaw ua ke
Lub ci ntsa iab.
Cov ntaub worsted tsis muaj zog, thaum cov ntaub woolen xoob.
Cov ntaub no tsis tshua muaj zog thiab tawv dua li cov ntaub plaub mos mos thiab cov ntaub plaub mos mos-polyester, cov ntaub plaub mos mos sib xyaw ua ke. Yog tias cov ntsiab lus viscose siab dua, cov ntaub yooj yim rau quav.
Cov ntaub zoo li cov ntaub plaub mos mos uas yog cov tshuaj lom neeg, cov ntaub zoo li cov ntaub plaub mos mos, cov xim tsaus nti, qhov mos mos, thiab tsis muaj qhov xav tias tawv. Vim tias qhov elasticity tsis zoo, yooj yim tawg, thiab tsis yooj yim ploj mus. Nws yog ib txoj hauv kev zoo los txheeb xyuas cov ntaub viscose uas lub zog ntawm cov xov paj uas rho tawm los ntawm cov ntaub pom tseeb txo qis thaum nws ntub dua li thaum nws qhuav. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov ntaub zoo li cov plaub mos mos no tawv thiab tuab tom qab ntub dej. Nrog rau kev nce qib ntawm kev tshawb fawb thiab thev naus laus zis, cov khoom cuav plaub mos mos hauv xim, qhov xav, thiab qhov ruaj khov kuj tau hloov pauv.
Cov Hom Tseem Ceeb:
Cov plaub hau luav
Feem ntau, muaj ib feem ntawm cov plaub luav thiab cov plaub mos mos uas sib xyaw ua ke thiab xaws ua ke. Cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov tsho luav yog nws cov fibers zoo, du thiab zoo li roj hmab, mos thiab fluffy pw saum npoo, thiab fluffy zoo. Nws xis nyob thiab ntuj tsim rau hnav, thiab qhov pw hauv nruab nrab yooj yim poob tawm.
Yog tias cov txheej txheem ntawm kev ua lub tsho ua ntej thiab tom qab ntawd zas xim (piv txwv li kev xaws thiab tom qab ntawd zas xim) raug saws, cov xim thiab ci ntsa iab yuav ntshiab dua thiab zoo nkauj dua, nrog rau lub lattice tshwj xeeb, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog haum rau cov poj niam hluas cov khaub ncaws sab nraud.
Cov plaub hau ua los ntawm tshuaj lom neeg
Qhov tshwj xeeb ntawm cov khaub ncaws yog nws lub teeb.
Zoo li acrylic unshirt, weave nrog acrylic bulk yarn feem ntau, nws cov duab wool zoo li muaj zog, xim thiab ci, qhov zoo ntawm cov khoom yog lub teeb mos mos o, qhov rov qab noo noo yog 0-4.5% xwb, lub zog tawg fiber yog siab dua li wool fiber, yuav tsis npauj npaim, tab sis nws qhov kev ywj pheej rov qab los qis dua li wool, khaws cov khaub ncaws sov tsawg dua li cov wool ntshiab, tus nqi pheej yig, tab sis yooj yim pilling, haum rau cov menyuam yaus khaub ncaws.
Tsis ntev los no, kev lag luam thoob ntiaj teb rau acrylic, polyamide fiber blended yarn, hloov kho acrylic imitation mohair yarn, nws cov sweaters tuaj yeem sib piv nrog cov plaub hau luav ntuj, mohair khaub ncaws.
Cov plaub hau tsiaj sib xyaw nrog cov tshuaj fibers
Nws muaj "cov yam ntxwv sib xws" ntawm ntau yam plaub tsiaj thiab cov tshuaj fiber, thiab nws cov tsos yog cov plaub, lub zog elongation tau zoo dua, thiab tus nqi ntawm lub tsho tiv no txo qis. Nws yog ib yam khoom zoo thiab pheej yig.
Tab sis nyob rau hauv lub tsho sib xyaw, muaj qhov teeb meem uas qhov cuam tshuam dyeing tsis zoo tagnrho vim yog qhov sib txawv dyeing thiab xim nqus tau peev xwm ntawm ntau hom fibers.
4. Cov khoom siv zoo li cov ntaub plaub cuav
Cov neeg Askiv yog thawj tus kawm txog kev rho tawm cov protein los ntawm cov kua nplaum tsiaj los ua cov protein fibers cuav.
Xyoo 1935, muaj ib txhia neeg nyob hauv tebchaws Ltalis tau sim rho cov cheese tawm ntawm mis nyuj los ua cov plaub cuav.
Txij thaum ntawd los, qee lub tebchaws tau ua tiav hauv kev ua cov fiber cuav los ntawm cov protein taum pauv thiab cov protein txiv laum huab xeeb.
Vim muaj teeb meem nrog cov nqi hluav taws xob thiab cov nqi tsim khoom ntawm cov fibers no, kev tsim khoom tsawg heev.
YUNAI dim, tsis muaj kev xav crisp, vim tsis zoo elasticity, yooj yim heev rau tshwm zou Fold, thiab tsis yooj yim ploj mus.
Muaj ob hom fibers uas tib neeg tsim: regenerated fiber thiab chemical fiber. Regenerated fiber yog cov viscose fiber ua los ntawm ntoo thiab nyom fiber los ntawm kev ua tshuaj lom neeg.
Cov tshuaj fiber yog cov tshuaj fiber ua los ntawm roj av, roj av, thee thiab cov khoom ua liaj ua teb.
Raws li cov duab thiab kev siv cov xov paj ua los ntawm tib neeg, muaj peb hom: rayon, rayon thiab wool.
Cov hom tseem ceeb muaj viscose fiber, acetate fiber, tooj liab ammonia fiber thiab lwm yam.
Cov fiber rov ua dua tshiab tuaj yeem muab faib ua cov cellulose fiber rov ua dua tshiab, cellulose ester fiber, protein fiber thiab lwm yam polymer fiber ntuj.
Nws cov khoom piv rau cov tshuaj fibers, staple fibers.
Cov ntaub ua los ntawm tib neeg feem ntau yog hais txog cov ntaub viscose fiber thiab cov ntaub staple fiber, uas yog cov paj rwb ua los ntawm tib neeg, rayon thiab lwm yam.
Tsis tas li ntawd xwb, nws kuj suav nrog ib feem ntawm cov ntaub nplua nuj fiber thiab cov ntaub fiber nruab nrab ntev ntawm cov filament thiab staple.
Yog li ntawd, cov khoom ntawm cov ntaub fiber tib neeg feem ntau yog txiav txim siab los ntawm cov khoom ntawm cov fiber viscose.
Cov ntaub Rayon thiab rayon mos mos rau qhov kov, ua pa tau thiab xis hnav, thiab muaj xim ci ntsa iab.
Cov ntaub ua los ntawm tib neeg muaj qhov hygroscopicity zoo, thiab nws qhov hygroscopicity yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws hauv cov tshuaj fiber. Tab sis nws lub zog ntub yog qis heev, nws tsuas yog li 50% ntawm lub zog qhuav xwb, thiab cov ntaub shrinkage loj dua, yog li ntawd yuav tsum shrink ua ntej txiav zoo dua.
Cov ntaub viscose ib txwm muaj cov yam ntxwv ntawm kev drape zoo, tsis muaj zog, resilience thiab wrinkle tsis kam, yog li nws cov khaub ncaws tsis zoo khaws cia thiab yooj yim wrinkle.
Cov ntaub viscose fiber muaj cov kua qaub thiab alkali zoo, tiv taus hnub ci thiab lwm yam tshuaj.
5. Cov khoom siv tshuaj fiber zoo li cov plaub mos mos
Feem ntau, cov xov paj rwb yog siv ua cov khoom tseem ceeb, cov xov paj rwb cuav lossis cov xov paj rwb xim yog cov xov pab txhawb nqa, thiab qee cov xov paj rwb tshiab yog siv ua cov khoom tseem ceeb, nrog cov qauv ntaub tsim nyog. Hom ntaub no muaj ob hom xyoob zoo li, zoo li ntuj.
Muaj tus cwj pwm ntuj tsim ntawm cov fiber ntuj.
Cov ntaub yog ci ntsa iab, zoo hauv ci, crisp thiab elastic, haum rau pej xeem.
Cov tshuaj fiber wool, tus yam ntxwv ntawm cov khaub ncaws yog sib dua.
Zoo li acrylic unshirt, weave nrog acrylic bulk yarn feem ntau, nws cov duab wool zoo li muaj zog, xim thiab ci, qhov zoo ntawm cov khoom yog lub teeb mos mos o, qhov rov qab noo noo yog 0-4.5% xwb, lub zog tawg fiber yog siab dua li wool fiber, yuav tsis npauj npaim, tab sis nws qhov kev ywj pheej rov qab los qis dua li wool, khaws cov khaub ncaws sov tsawg dua li cov wool ntshiab, tus nqi pheej yig, tab sis yooj yim pilling, haum rau cov menyuam yaus khaub ncaws.
Tsis ntev los no, kev lag luam thoob ntiaj teb rau acrylic, poly-amide fiber blended yarn, hloov kho acrylic imitation mohair yarn, nws mus rau hauv ib lub tsho tuaj yeem sib piv nrog cov plaub hau luav ntuj, mohair khaub ncaws.
Cov plaub tsiaj thiab cov tshuaj fiber sib xyaw ua ke, nrog ntau yam plaub tsiaj thiab cov tshuaj fiber "ua ke", nws cov tsos muaj cov plaub mos mos, lub zog ntev dua tau zoo dua, txo tus nqi ntawm lub tsho, yog cov khoom pheej yig thiab zoo.
Tab sis nyob rau hauv lub tsho sib xyaw, muaj qhov teeb meem uas ntau hom fibers muaj qhov sib txawv dyeing thiab xim nqus tau peev xwm, uas ua rau cov nyhuv dyeing tsis zoo tagnrho.
Qhov txawv ntawm cov tshuaj fiber zoo li cov ntaub plaub thiab cov ntaub plaub ntshiab:
Cov ntaub zoo li cov plaub mos feem ntau yog ua los ntawm cov tshuaj fiber, thiab cov viscose fiber ntau dua, xws li polyester / viscose nruab nrab ntev wool, polyester ntshiab thiab lwm yam khoom zoo li wool.
Ua ntej, qhov ci ntsa iab txawv.
Cov ntaub plaub mos mos feem ntau yog mos thiab ntuj, nrog cov xim tsis zoo nkauj. Cov ntaub plaub mos mos ua los ntawm cov tshuaj fiber muaj ntau xim thiab ci ntsa iab. Yog tias koj saib zoo zoo hauv qab lub hnub, koj yuav pom cov teeb ci ntsa iab thiab ci ntsa iab.
Qhov no yog ib qho uas yuav ua rau cov plaub mos mos txias zoo li cov ntaub plaub mos mos kuj tsis paub qhov txawv.
Qhov thib ob, kev xav thiab elasticity txawv.
Cov ntaub plaub mos mos zoo li mos, me ntsis plush, lub cev pob txha, me ntsis wrinkled tab sis tsis nyuaj, mos tab sis tsis ncaj rebound;
Thaum polyester, zoo li ntaub plaub zoo li, tab sis mos thiab du, tsis muaj pob txha lub cev, ntsws ntau dua, qeeb rebound.
Qhov thib peb, hlawv cov ntaub mos mos tom qab kos duab.
Tom qab cov xov paj ntaub wool ntshiab, koj tuaj yeem pom cov xov paj ntaub wool tsis sib xws, qhov ntev sib txawv, qhov curl ntuj, thiab viscose ua raws li cov xov paj ntaub wool ntev, thiab qhov tuab sib xws.
Tom qab hlawv, tom qab hluav taws kub qeeb qeeb, tawm hauv hluav taws tseem kub hnyiab, cov plaub hau nrog rau ntxhiab tsw, tshauv, dub crispy lub voos xwmfab, ib qho twist uas yog hmoov rau cov ntaub wool ntshiab, thiab nyob ze rau hluav taws kub, hlawv sai sai, nplaim daj, clamp hlawv, cov tshauv yooj yim ya lub teeb grey, dawb thiab tawm hauv ib lub pob ntawm polyester / viscose nyuaj rau tsoo.
Nws kuj tseem tawm ib lub pob dub tom qab hlawv.
Los ntawm ob mus rau ob lossis ntau dua ntawm cov khoom xyaw lossis cov ntaub sib xyaw ua ke: wool / viscose, wool / polyester, wool / silk, wool / viscose / spandex, thiab lwm yam, nws tsis yog tsuas yog yuav tsum tau nkag siab txog ntau hom fiber morphology thiab cov khoom, thiab txoj kev siv ntau yam fiber txheeb xyuas, los ntawm kev saib dua, hlawv hlawv mus rau qhov kev sim tom qab kev sim, tuaj yeem tuaj rau qhov xaus lus zoo.
6. Cov plaub mos mos Mercerized
Cov ntaub plaub mos mos uas muaj mercerizing yog cov ntaub plaub mos mos uas siv ntau tom qab kev kho tshuaj thiab kev kho lub cev. Cov plaub mos mos uas muaj nplai raug rhuav tshem, thiab los ntawm kev kuaj tshuaj lom neeg, ua rau cov plaub mos mos du, ci ntsa iab, thiab tsis yooj yim ntsws thaum ntxuav, tsim nyog rau cov khaub ncaws tshoob.
Mercerizing wool yog kev kho cov khoom wool hauv cov txheej txheem mercerizing ntawm wool dyeing thiab finishing.
Cov ntaub plaub yuav tsum tau chlorinated los ntawm Basolan DC lossis kho nrog protease kom rhuav tshem cov nplai ntawm cov ntaub plaub thiab txo qhov sib txawv ntawm cov coefficient sib txhuam thaum lub sijhawm txav mus tom ntej thiab rov qab ntawm cov ntaub plaub. Tom qab kev kho mob, cov luster ntawm cov ntaub plaub nce ntxiv, feem ntau hu ua mercerized wool.
Cov ntaub plaub mercerized tuaj yeem ua los ntawm cov ntaub plaub ntshiab lossis sib xyaw.
Cov yam ntxwv tseem ceeb yog tiv thaiv kev ntsws, tshuab ntxhua khaub ncaws, thiab tiv thaiv kev ua pilling.
Cov txheej txheem mercerized wool tau pib thaum nruab nrab xyoo 1990, nws yog ib qho tshiab dyeing thiab finishing technology tsim los ntawm kev siv cov tshuaj chlorine thiab shrinkage technology rau wool.
Cov ntaub plaub yaj uas tau kho kom zoo nkauj muaj qhov zoo li cashmere thiab ci ntsa iab.
Vim yog cov yam ntxwv no, cov khoom siv mercerizing wool sai sai tau nrov.
Txog rau tam sim no, cov ntaub plaub mercerized tau nrov heev, qhov sib koom ua lag luam tau tshaj qhov ntau ntawm cov ntaub plaub ib txwm muaj.
Muaj ntau lub tswv yim sib txawv ntawm cov plaub mos mos mercerized hauv Suav teb thiab lwm lub tebchaws hauv ntiaj teb. Hauv Suav teb, cov plaub mos mos uas raug tshem tawm ntawm phosphorus hu ua mercerized wool, thaum cov plaub mos mos yaj thoob ntiaj teb raug steamed los ntawm cov pa kub, thiab ncab los ntawm 30% ~ 50%. Tom qab ntawd, tom qab txias los ntawm dej txias thiab ua kom zoo li tus, cov plaub mos mos yaj ntev thiab nyias hu ua mercerized wool.
7. Cov plaub mos mos
Feem ntau cov ntaub plaub yog hu ua cov ntaub plaub fiber.
Cov ntaub plaub yog cov protein molecules sib sau ua ke, qhov tsos ntawm ib txheej tshwj xeeb ntawm cov qauv nruj horny, nruj nreem npog, cov qauv flake me me heev, nws qhov zoo yog los tiv thaiv cov av nkag mus rau hauv cov fiber, yog li, cov khaub ncaws wool tsis yooj yim qias neeg.
Cov neeg ntxuav khaub ncaws feem ntau ntsib ntau yam ntaub sib txawv thaum ntxhua khaub ncaws, thiab cov khaub ncaws plaub kuj yog ib qho uas pom ntau.
Yog vim li cas cov ntaub plaub ua rau lub teeb ci ntsa iab yog:
(1) Cov txheej txheem horny scale ntawm qhov chaw ntawm cov ntaub plaub mos mos yog ib feem hnav;
(2) Cov hmoov av thiab cov av qias neeg txhuam me ntsis thiab lo rau ntawm qhov zawj, kom qhov chaw ntawm daim ntaub du, ua rau lub teeb tsis tu ncua, ua rau lub teeb ci ntsa iab.
Cov hau kev tshem tawm lub teeb:
(1) Cov mov ci tuaj yeem raug ntswj ua hmoov nplej thiab nthuav rau hauv lub teeb, nrog rau hlau rau hlau;
(2) Pickling: Muab cov kua acetic acid uas muaj qhov concentration ntawm 3-5% thiab qhov kub ntawm 50 ℃ rau 3-5 feeb, thiab tom qab ntawd yaug nrog dej ntshiab.
Kuj siv tau cov kua txiv qaub dawb.
(3) Txhuam nrog txhuam thaum ntxuav.
Cov fiber yog cov fiber ntuj, yog cov txiaj ntsig ntawm cov noob cog, cov qia thiab nplooj uas muaj ntau cov tshuaj fiber tsis muaj qhov zoo, cov noob hydrophilic ntau dua hauv cov paj rwb fiber, hygroscopicity zoo, hnav hws nqus tau, huab cua permeability, xis nyob, thiab hemp thiab txias txias, mos, tsis lo rau cov yam ntxwv ntawm kev siv dav hauv kev lag luam khaub ncaws, txais tos los ntawm cov neeg siv khoom.
Qhov Zoo: mos thiab ywj rau tes, mos thiab ntuj ci, xis nyob thiab zoo nkauj hnav, zoo nkaus li qib siab, nqus tau dej zoo, tsis yooj yim rau kev coj cua sov, khaws cia cua sov zoo, tiv taus crease, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog tom qab ua khaub ncaws thiab ironing zoo dua pleat shaping thiab tiv thaiv cov duab khaub ncaws;
Lus Cim: Qhov kub ntawm kev ntxuav yuav tsum tsis txhob siab dhau, tsis txhob txhuam lossis ntswj kom tsis txhob raug tshav ntuj.
Qhov chaw nias: Siv cov khaub ncaws ntub dej, siv cov khaub ncaws qhuav los ntawm sab tod.
Qhov tsis zoo: alkali - resistant, shrinkage, yooj yim rau wrinkle.
8. Cov ntaub plaub mos mos
Cov ntaub plaub yaj-polyester (tshuaj plaub yaj-polyester): Cov ntaub ua los ntawm cov xov paj plaub yaj thiab polyester sib xyaws, hom ntaub plaub yaj sib xyaws feem ntau.
Ib daim ntaub ua los ntawm cov xov paj rwb thiab polyester sib xyaw ua ke.
Qhov sib piv ntawm cov plaub mos mos thiab polyester sib xyaw yog 45:55, uas tsis tsuas yog tuaj yeem tswj tau qhov zoo ntawm cov plaub mos mos, tab sis kuj muab kev ua si tag nrho rau qhov zoo ntawm polyester.
Yuav luag txhua cov ntaub ntxhib thiab cov ntaub worsted muaj cov ntaub plaub mos mos sib xyaw ua ke.
Ntawm lawv, cov ntaub worsted wool-polyester nyias nyias kuj hu ua txias, feem ntau hu ua wool txias tiag tiag, yog qhov cuam tshuam tshaj plaws ntawm cov yam ntxwv ntawm wool-polyester sib xyaw ntawm ib qho ntawm cov ntaub.
Muaj ob txheej warp thiab weft, ob txheej warp, ib txheej weft thiab ib txheej warp thiab weft.
Feem ntau nrog 50 ~ 70 txiv neej ob txoj hlua, cov ntaub nyias dua nrog 100 ~ 120 txiv neej ob txoj hlua.
Qhov hnyav ntawm daim ntaub yog li ntawm 170 ~ 190 g / m2.
Piv nrog cov ntaub plaub tweed, cov ntaub plaub-polyester nyias tweed yog lub teeb thiab lub teeb hauv cov qauv, nrog kev rov zoo wrinkle, ruaj khov thiab hnav-tiv taus, yooj yim ntxuav, sai kom qhuav, ruaj khov pleat, ruaj khov hauv qhov loj me, tab sis tsis du li cov ntaub plaub.
Yog tias siv cov polyester sib dua ua cov khoom siv raw, qhov saum npoo ntawm cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav yuav ci ntsa iab.
Yog tias cov tsiaj txhu tshwj xeeb xws li cashmere lossis cov plaub ntxhuav siv rau hauv cov khoom siv raw ntawm kev sib xyaw, nws yuav zoo li nplua thiab nplaum dua.
Qhov sib piv ntawm cov plaub mos mos thiab polyester sib xyaw yog 45:55, uas tsis tsuas yog tuaj yeem tswj tau qhov zoo ntawm cov plaub mos mos, tab sis kuj tseem muab kev ua si rau qhov zoo ntawm polyester.
Qhov Zoo: cov plaub mos mos sib xyaw nrog polyester, lub teeb thiab lub teeb hauv cov qauv, kev ua tau zoo rov qab wrinkle.
Siv tau ntev, yooj yim ntxuav thiab qhuav, ruaj khov hauv qhov loj me, ruaj khov hauv qhov chaw thau khoom
Cov ntsiab lus ntxuav: muab cov khaub ncaws ntub dej txias li 15 feeb ua ntej, tom qab ntawd ntxuav nrog cov tshuaj ntxuav tes, qhov kub ntawm cov kua ntxuav yuav tsum tsis pub tshaj 45 degrees, qhov chaw qias neeg ntawm lub dab tshos thiab lub tes tsho tuaj yeem siv txhuam mos mos los txhuam maj mam, tom qab ntxuav kom huv si, tuaj yeem ntswj maj mam, yuav tsum muab tso rau qhov chaw txias thiab muaj cua nkag, tsis txhob nyob ib leeg, tsis txhob ziab, vim tias cov khaub ncaws siav yuav ua rau tawv nqaij ntsws.
9.T/R ntaub
Nws yog ib qho ntawm cov yam ntxwv ntawm T/R ntaub los ua lub tsho caj dab sawv ntsug, lub tsho lapel thiab hnav khaub ncaws yooj yim nrog ntau daim plaid lossis stripe, flash lossis monochrome T/R ntaub.
Cov ntaub T/R yog cov ntaub polyester viscose sib xyaw. Polyester viscose sib xyaw yog ib hom kev sib xyaw ua ke. Polyester viscose tsis yog tsuas yog paj rwb, ntaub plaub, thiab nruab nrab - ntev xwb. Cov ntaub plaub feem ntau hu ua "ceev tsheb npav". Thaum cov polyester tsis tsawg dua 50%, cov ntaub sib xyaw no tuaj yeem ua rau cov polyester ruaj khov, tiv taus wrinkle, ruaj khov, ntxuav tau thiab hnav tau zoo. Kev sib xyaw ntawm cov fiber viscose txhim kho qhov cua permeability ntawm cov ntaub thiab tiv taus qhov yaj. Cov pilling thiab antistatic phenomena ntawm cov ntaub tau txo qis.
Siv 65/35 lossis 67/33 rau qhov piv ntawm polyester/viscid-blend. Polyester/viscose sib xyaw zoo ib yam li polyester/viscose. Cov yam ntxwv ntawm hom ntaub sib xyaw no yog du thiab huv si, xim ci, zoo li cov plaub mos mos, tes zoo elasticity, nqus dej noo zoo; Tab sis qhov ruaj khov tsis zoo.
Qhov zoo: ruaj khov, tiv taus wrinkle, ruaj khov loj, ntxuav tau thiab hnav tau.
Nws tuaj yeem txhim kho qhov cua permeability ntawm cov ntaub, txo cov pilling thiab antistatic phenomenon.
Cov ntsiab lus ntxuav: Lub tshuab ntxhua khaub ncaws siv tau, tsis txhob txhuam nrog txhuam, kom tsis txhob muaj pilling, ziab rau sab tod.
10. NC ceev ceev
Cov ntaub NC ntom ntom siab yog ib hom ntaub sib xyaw lossis sib xyaw nrog poly-amide (nylon) thiab paj rwb.
Cov khoom ua ke cov txiaj ntsig ntawm nylon thiab paj rwb xov.
Qhov muaj peev xwm hnav tau ntawm nylon yog thawj qhov ntawm cov fibers ntuj thiab cov tshuaj fibers. Nylon nqus dej noo zoo dua li polyester, thiab nws qhov xis nyob hnav thiab zas xim zoo dua li polyester. Yog li ntawd, qhov nqus dej noo thiab xis nyob hnav ntawm cov xov paj rwb yuav tsis txo qis thaum sib xyaw lossis sib xyaw nrog cov xov paj rwb.
Nylon muaj qhov elasticity zoo heev. Tom qab sib xyaw lossis sib xyaw nrog cov xov paj rwb, qhov elasticity ntawm cov ntaub tau zoo dua.
Qhov tsis zoo ntawm NC ntaub yog: vim nylon koom nrog kev sib xyaw lossis sib xyaw, qhov kub tsis kam thiab lub teeb tsis kam ntawm cov ntaub tsis zoo, them sai sai rau kev ntxuav thiab ironing hauv cov txheej txheem ntawm kev siv kom tau raws li cov xwm txheej, yog li kom tsis txhob puas tsuaj.
Nws cov yam ntxwv tseem ceeb tshaj plaws: tsis yooj yim hnav, mos thiab xis nyob, yooj yim los ntxuav.
Tsis txhob hlawv rau hauv lub hnub, tsis txhob ntswj tawm.
Cov ntsiab lus ntxuav: Tsis txhob ziab kom huv, ziab hauv qhov tsaus ntuj.
Txoj kev txij nkawm: tsis txhob hnav lub caij, teem rov qab rau lub hnab yas tiaj tus.
Lub sijhawm tshaj tawm: Lub Kaum Ob Hlis-17-2024