Lub Super 100s txog Super 200s grading system ntsuas qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub, hloov pauv txoj kev peb ntsuam xyuascov ntaub suitsQhov ntsuas no, pib thaum xyoo pua 18th, tam sim no nthuav dav txij li xyoo 30 txog 200, qhov twg cov qib zoo dua qhia txog qhov zoo tshaj plaws.Cov ntaub zoo nkauj, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov ntaub plaub zoo nkauj uas ua rau cov ntaub zoo nkauj, uas siv cov qib no, muaj qhov mos mos thiab kev zoo nkauj uas tsis muaj qhov sib piv. Tsis tas li ntawd,cov ntaub wool suits zoo tshaj plawsthiabCov ntaub worsted wool suitspaub txog lawv qhov ruaj khov thiab zoo nkauj, ua rau lawv yog qhov kev xaiv zoo rau cov neeg uas muaj kev txawj ntse.cov ntaub woven suitshauv cov pawg no ua kom muaj qhov zoo nkauj thiab kev xav zoo, ua rau txhua lub khaub ncaws zoo nkauj dua.
Cov Ntsiab Lus Tseem Ceeb
- Kev ntsuas qib ntaub plaub, zoo li Super 100s txog Super 200s, qhia tau tias cov xov nyias. Qhov no cuam tshuam rau qhov mos thiab zoo nkauj ntawm cov ntaub.
- Cov qib siab dua, xws li Super 150s thiab siab dua, yog cov mos dua thiab zoo nkauj dua. Lawv zoo meej rau cov xwm txheej tseem ceeb.
- Rausiv txhua hnubxaiv cov ntaub uas muaj qhov loj ntawm Super 100s txog Super 140s. Cov ntaub no xis nyob, muaj zog, thiab tseem zoo nkauj.
Nkag Siab Txog Kev Ntsuas Qib Ntaub Puam
Kev Ntsuas Wool Yog Dab Tsi?
Kev ntsuas qib ntaub plaub yog txheej txheem ntawm kev ntsuam xyuas qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub raws li lawv qhov zoo, qhov ntev, thiab cov yam ntxwv tag nrho. Lub kaw lus ntsuas qib ua kom muaj kev sib xws hauv kev tsim cov ntaub thiab pab cov neeg siv khoom txheeb xyuas qhovqhov zoo ntawm cov khoom siv woolKeeb kwm, kev ntsuas qib ntaub plaub tau hloov zuj zus nrog rau kev nce qib hauv kev tsim cov ntaub. Piv txwv li, kev qhia txog Super number system los ntawm Joseph Lumb thiab Sons tau cim lub sijhawm hloov pauv hauv kev lag luam, tsim kom muaj txoj hauv kev ntsuas kev nplua nuj.
| Xyoo/Lub Sijhawm | Kev Tshwm Sim/Kev Txhim Kho | Qhov Tseem Ceeb |
|---|---|---|
| Thaum ntxov xyoo pua 19th | Cov txheej txheem tsim cov ntaub plaub yaj tseem nyob rau theem pib | Tsim kom muaj qhov xav tau rau cov txheej txheem kev ntsuas qib zoo dua |
| 1968 xyoo | USDA tau tsim cov qauv rau kev ntsuas qib ntaub plaub | Cov txheej txheem ntsuas qib raws cai thiab tau qhia txog cov qauv ntsuas uas pom tseeb |
| Kev qhia txog qib 100s | Joseph Lumb thiab Cov Tub tau ua lag luam 'Lumb's Huddersfieldzoo tshaj 100s' | Kev yug los ntawm cov lus 'super' hauv kev ntsuas wool |
Vim li cas Fiber Fineness Tseem Ceeb
Qhov zoo ntawm cov fiber ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev txiav txim siab qhov mos, kev xis nyob, thiab kev zoo nkauj ntawm cov ntaub plaub. Kev tshawb fawb qhia tau hais tias cov fibers zoo dua txhim kho cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov xov paj, ua rau lawv yooj yim dua rau kev tig thiab ua. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov fibers zoo dua txhim kho qhov kev nplij siab, vim tias lawv txo qhov kev xav ntawm cov pos hniav uas feem ntau cuam tshuam nrog cov plaub mos mos. Qhov kev sib raug zoo ntawm qhov nruab nrab ntawm cov fiber diameter (MFD) thiab cov ntaub zoo nkauj qhia txog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm qhov zoo nkauj hauv kev tsim cov khoom plaub mos mos zoo.
Lub Hom Phiaj ntawm Super Number System
Lub Super number system ua kom yooj yim rau kev ntsuas cov ntaub plaub los ntawm kev muab cov nqi lej rau qhov zoo ntawm cov fiber. Cov lej no, xws li Super 100s txog Super 200s, qhia txog qhov nruab nrab ntawm cov ntaub plaub hauv microns. Txhawm rau kom ua tiav qhov tseeb, ntau txoj kev tshawb fawb tau siv:
| Txoj Kev | Kev piav qhia |
|---|---|
| Micron System | Ntsuas qhov nruab nrab ntawm cov fiber diameter hauv microns, muab ib qho kev ntsuas qib tseeb uas nyiam thoob ntiaj teb. |
| Kev suav suav ntawm kev sib hloov | Faib cov plaub mos mos raws li tus naj npawb ntawm cov phuam hauv ib phaus, siv hloov pauv nrog lwm tus. |
| Lub Txheej Txheem Ntsuas Ntshav Hauv Tebchaws Meskas | Qib cov plaub mos mos raws li feem pua ntawm cov ntshav Merino, uas feem ntau siv hauv Tebchaws Meskas |
| Kev Siv Microprojection | Tso cov ntu fiber rau ntawm lub vijtsam rau kev ntsuas ntawm qhov loj dua, kom ntseeg tau tias muaj qhov tseeb hauv kev ntsuas qib. |
| Optical Fiber Diam Analyzer | Tshuaj xyuas cov fiber snippets sai sai, ntsuas ntau txhiab tus fibers hauv vib nas this rau kev ntsuas qib zoo. |
| Sirolan-Laserscan | Siv cov qauv me me rau kev ntsuas qhov loj ntawm cov fiber, sib tov cov fiber rau kev tshuaj xyuas qhov tseeb ntawm cov khoom loj. |
Lub kaw lus no tsis yog tsuas yog pab cov chaw tsim khoom tsim cov ntaub sib xws xwb tab sis kuj tseem ua rau cov neeg siv khoom xaiv tau zoo thaum xaiv cov ntaub zoo nkauj.
Kev txhais cov lus txhais ntawm Super 100s mus rau Super 200s
Yuav ua li cas cov lej qhia txog qhov zoo ntawm Fiber
Thaum kuv thawj zaug ntsib qhov Super grading system, kuv xav tsis thoob tias cov lej no muaj feem cuam tshuam ncaj qha rau qhov zoo ntawm cov xov paj rwb. Txhua tus lej sawv cev rau qhov loj tshaj plaws ntawm cov xov paj hauv microns. Piv txwv li, Super 100s wool muaj cov xov paj nrog qhov nruab nrab ntawm 18.5 microns, thaum Super 200s wool ntsuas li ntawm 13.5 microns. Tus lej me dua, cov xov paj ntxhib dua; tus lej loj dua, cov xov paj mos dua thiab mos dua.
Yuav kom nkag siab zoo dua qhov no, cia peb saib cov txheej txheem ntsuas siv los ntsuas qhov zoo ntawm cov fiber:
| Hom Qhia | Kev piav qhia |
|---|---|
| Cov Cim Qhia Ncaj Qha | Qhia los ntawm txoj kab uas hla thiab thaj tsam ntawm cov fiber. |
| Cov Cim Qhia Tsis Ncaj Qha | Txiav txim siab los ntawm qhov zoo ntawm cov fiber lossis qhov ntev, qhia tawm hauv cov nqe lus ntawm cov fiber ntau ib chav ntev. |
| Cov Chav Sib Koom | Tex, dtex, thiab denier yog siv los sawv cev rau qhov hnyav ntawm cov fiber ib chav ntev. |
| Tex | Qhov hnyav (g) ntawm 1000 m fiber. |
| Dtex | 1/10 ntawm qhov hnyav ntawm 1000 m fiber. |
| Tus neeg tsis lees paub | Qhov hnyav (g) ntawm 9000 m fiber; 1 denier = 9 tex. |
Cov cim qhia no ua kom cov chaw tsim khoom thiab cov neeg siv khoom tuaj yeem ntseeg siab rau cov qib lej kom qhia txog qhov zoo thiab kev nplua nuj ntawm cov plaub mos mos. Thaum kuv mus yuav khoomcov ntaub zoo nkauj wool suits, Kuv ib txwm xav txog cov qib no kom ntseeg tau tias kuv tau txais qhov mos mos thiab kev zoo nkauj uas kuv xav tau.
Lub Micron Scale thiab Nws Lub Luag Haujlwm hauv Kev Ntsuas Qib
Qhov ntsuas micron yog lub hauv paus ntawm kev ntsuas wool. Nws ntsuas qhov txoj kab uas hla ntawm cov fibers ib leeg, muab ib txoj hauv kev meej rau kev faib cov wool. Cov fiber ntau npaum li cas, qhov ntsuas micron qis dua, thiab qhov siab dua nws qib Super. Piv txwv li, cov fibers hauv pawg Super 100s feem ntau ntsuas ntawm 18 thiab 19 microns, thaum cov hauv Super 200s poob qis dua 14 microns.
Kev tshawb fawb tau lees paub qhov tseeb ntawm cov kev ntsuas no. Ib txoj kev tshawb fawb piv rau qhov nruab nrab ntawm Fiber Diameter (AFD) kev ntsuas siv ob lub cuab yeej, OFDA2000 thiab Minifiber EC, pom tias ob lub cuab yeej tsim cov txiaj ntsig zoo sib xws. Qhov kev sib xws no ua kom ntseeg tau tias qhov ntsuas micron tseem yog tus qauv txhim khu kev qha rau kev ntsuas wool. Kuv tau pom tias thaum kuv xaiv cov ntaub qib nrog cov lej Super siab dua, qhov sib txawv ntawm qhov mos thiab du yog pom tseeb tam sim ntawd.
Qhov Txuas Ntawm Cov Qib Siab Dua Thiab Cov Khoom Kim Heev Wool Suits Npuag
Cov qib siab dua SuperCov ntaub plaub mos mos uas muaj qib Super 150 txog Super 200 zoo nkauj heev, ua rau cov ntaub mos mos mos uas zoo li tsis hnyav. Qhov kev zoo nkauj no ua rau cov ntaub plaub mos mos zoo nkauj tshwj xeeb. Cov xov tsis yog tsuas yog mos dua xwb tab sis kuj sib xws dua, ua rau cov ntaub zoo nkauj thiab tiv taus kev ntsws.
Txawm li cas los xij, muaj ntau yam ntxiv rau cov qib no tsis yog tsuas yog qhov zoo nkauj xwb. Qhov zoo ntawm cov xov kuj ua rau cov ntaub ua pa tau zoo dua, ua rau nws zoo tagnrho rau kev hnav txhua xyoo. Thaum kuv hnav ib lub tsho ua los ntawm Super 180s wool, kuv tuaj yeem hnov qhov sib txawv ntawm kev nplij siab thiab kev zoo nkauj. Nws tsis yog qhov xav tsis thoob tias cov ntaub no yog ib qho tseem ceeb hauv kev xaws khaub ncaws zoo nkauj.
Txawm hais li ntawd los, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas yuav tsum sib npaug ntawm kev nplua nuj thiab kev siv tau yooj yim. Txawm hais tias cov qib siab dua muab kev mos mos tsis sib xws, lawv tuaj yeem tsis ruaj khov dua li cov qib qis dua xws li Super 100s lossis Super 120s. Rau kev hnav txhua hnub, kuv feem ntau pom zoo cov ntaub hauv Super 100s txog Super 140s, vim tias lawv sib npaug zoo meej ntawm kev nplua nuj thiab kev siv tau ntev.
Zoo, Khoom Kim Heev, thiab Kev Siv Tau Zoo
Kev Ntsuas Qib Cuam Tshuam Li Cas Rau Kev Xav Thiab Kev Xis Nyob Ntawm Cov Ntaub
Qhov kev xav ntawm cov ntaub plaub mos mos nyob ntawm nws qib. Cov qib siab dua, xws li Super 150s thiab siab dua, muab cov qauv mos mos uas zoo li mos mos.khoom kim heev tawm tsam daim tawv nqaijCov qib qis dua, xws li Super 100s, muab qhov kev xav ntxhib dua tab sis tseem xis nyob rau kev hnav txhua hnub. Kev tshawb fawb piv rau kev nplij siab ntawm kev kov thoob plaws cov qib wool qhia txog cov kev nkag siab zoo kawg nkaus:
| Lub Npe Kawm | Kev tsom xam | Kev Kawm Txuj Ci |
|---|---|---|
| Qhov Loj ntawm Kev Pom Kev Tactile: Kev Tshawb Fawb nrog Cov Ntaub Plaub Hnyav Sib Dua | Txheeb xyuas qhov ntev ntawm cov ntaub plaub mos mos | Cov haujlwm cais dawb, Kev ntsuas ntau qhov ntev, Kev tshuaj xyuas kev hloov pauv |
| Kev kwv yees qhov xis nyob ntawm cov ntaub tactile los ntawm cov khoom siv kho tshuab thiab tes siv kev tshuaj xyuas regression | Tshawb nrhiav kev sib raug zoo ntawm cov khoom siv kho tshuab thiab kev xav thiab kev nplij siab tactile | Kev tshuaj xyuas kev hloov pauv, kev ntsuas KES-FB, pawg kws tshaj lij Sensory |
| Kev Txheeb Xyuas Cov Khoom Tseem Ceeb Tshaj Plaws Uas Cuam Tshuam Rau Kev Xis Nyob Ntawm Cov Npuag Siv Kev Tshawb Fawb Txog Kev Hloov Pauv | Txheeb xyuas cov khoom siv tseem ceeb thiab cov khoom siv kho tshuab uas cuam tshuam rau kev nplij siab | Kev tshuaj xyuas regression kauj ruam, kev sib raug zoo ntawm cov ntaub ntawv |
Thaum kuv xaiv cov ntaub zoo nkauj rau cov khaub ncaws ua los ntawm cov plaub mos mos, kuv pom tias cov ntaub zoo dua li no zoo li mos dua thiab zoo nkauj dua. Qhov sib txawv ntawm kev kov no ua rau muaj kev paub zoo dua rau kev hnav, ua rau nws tsim nyog rau kev nqis peev rau cov sijhawm tshwj xeeb.
Kev Ruaj Khov Thoob Plaws Qib Sib Txawv
Qhov ruaj khov sib txawv ntawm ntau qib ntaub plaub. Txawm hais tias cov qib zoo dua xws li Super 180s zoo dua hauv qhov mos, lawv yuav tsis muaj qhov ruaj khov zoo li cov qib qis dua. Piv txwv li, Super 100s ntaub plaub muaj qhov sib npaug ntawm kev ruaj khov thiab kev nplij siab, ua rau nws zoo tagnrho rau kev siv ntau zaus. Cov ntaub ntawv sib piv qhia txog cov qhov sib txawv no:
| Hom Fiber | Kev Tiv Thaiv Kev Ntsws | Kev Ruaj Khoov (Kev Khoov) | Lub zog tensile | Kev Tiv Thaiv Kev Sib Txhuam |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Merino Wool | Siab | Siab | Nruab nrab | Qis |
| Paj rwb | Qis | Nruab nrab | Siab | Siab |
| Polyester | Nruab nrab | Siab | Siab | Nruab nrab |
Kuv feem ntau pom zoo kom siv cov roj hmab Super 120s lossis Super 140s rau cov neeg uas tab tom nrhiav kev sib npaug ntawm kev siv tau ntev thiab kev nplua nuj. Cov qib no tiv taus kev hnav thiab rhuav thaum tseem ua kom zoo nkauj.
Kev Sib Npaug ntawm Kev Khoom Kim Heev thiab Kev Siv Tau Zoo hauv Kev Xaiv Cov Ntaub Plaub
Kev xaiv qib ntaub plaub zoo yogkev sib npaug ntawm qhov zoo, tus nqi, thiab kev siv tau yooj yimCov qib siab dua, txawm tias kim heev los xij, tej zaum yuav tsis haum rau txhua tus neeg lub neej. Cov yam ntxwv ntuj ntawm cov plaub mos mos, xws li kev rwb thaiv tsev thiab kev nqus dej noo, ua rau nws yog qhov kev xaiv zoo thiab zoo nkauj. Cov kev xav tseem ceeb suav nrog:
- Cov ntaub plaub Merino muab kev sov so thiab kev ruaj khov tab sis nws kim dua.
- Kev sib xyaw nrog acrylic ua rau kom ruaj khov thiab txo qhov xav tau kev saib xyuas.
- Cov ntaub plaub muaj ntau dua ua rau nws mos thiab sov dua.
Rau kev hnav txhua hnub, kuv pom tias cov ntaub ntawm Super 100s txog Super 140s zoo sib xws. Lawv muab qhov zoo nkauj ntawm cov ntaub plaub mos mos zoo nkauj yam tsis muaj kev cuam tshuam rau kev siv tau lossis tus nqi.
Xaiv Qib Wool Zoo
Cov Lus Qhia rau Kev Ntsuam Xyuas Cov Khoom Siv Wool
Thaum twgkev ntsuam xyuas cov khoom siv wool, Kuv tsom mus rau peb yam tseem ceeb: qhov zoo ntawm cov fiber, kev nrhiav tau, thiab kev siv. Qhov zoo ntawm cov fiber txiav txim siab qhov mos, qhov ruaj khov, thiab qhov xav ntawm cov ntaub. Kuv ib txwm xyuas qib Super number, vim nws qhia ncaj qha txog qhov zoo ntawm cov plaub mos mos. Piv txwv li, Super 100s wool muab qhov sib npaug ntawm kev ruaj khov thiab kev nplij siab, thaum Super 180s wool muab qhov mos mos tsis muaj qhov sib piv rau cov sijhawm tshwj xeeb.
Kev nrhiav khoom los ntawm lwm tus kuj tseem ceeb ib yam. Kuv muab cov ntaub plaub uas tau los ntawm lwm tus los ua qhov tseem ceeb, xws li Merino, uas ua raws li qhov kev thov kom muaj cov ntaub ntawv ruaj khov zuj zus. Kev tshawb fawb txog kev lag luam tsis ntev los no qhia tau tias 73% ntawm cov neeg tiam millennials txaus siab them ntau dua rau cov khoom uas zoo rau ib puag ncig. Qhov sib txawv no qhia txog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev xaiv cov ntaub plaub uas yog ob qho tib si khoom kim heev thiab muaj lub luag haujlwm rau ib puag ncig.
Thaum kawg, kuv xav txog qhov siv cov ntaub no. Cov ntaub plaub mos mos ua rau nws yog ib qho kev xaiv zoo rau cov tib neeg uas muaj daim tawv nqaij rhiab heev lossis ua xua. Piv rau paj rwb, cov ntaub plaub mos mos txo qhov muaj feem yuav muaj teeb meem ua pa, ua rau nws yog ib qho kev xaiv zoo dua rau kev hnav txhua hnub.
Kev Sib Txuas Qib Kawm Rau Koj Cov Kev Xav Tau Thiab Koj Txoj Kev Ua Neej
Kev xaiv cov ntaub plaub zoo nyob ntawm koj txoj kev ua neej thiab kev nyiam. Kuv ib txwm pom zoo kom pib nrog kev ntsuam xyuas koj cov dej num txhua hnub thiab cov khaub ncaws uas koj xav tau. Piv txwv li, yog tias koj xav tau ib lub tsho rau kev hnav mus ua haujlwm ntau zaus, Super 100s lossis Super 120s wool muab qhov sib npaug zoo meej ntawm kev ruaj khov thiab kev nplij siab. Cov qib no tiv taus kev siv tas li thaum tswj hwm qhov zoo nkauj.
Rau cov neeg nrhiav kev nplua nujntaub plaub mos mosRau cov xwm txheej tshwj xeeb, cov qib siab dua xws li Super 150s lossis Super 180s muab qhov mos mos thiab zoo nkauj tsis muaj qhov sib piv. Cov ntaub no zoo nkauj heev thiab tsis hnyav, ua rau lawv zoo tagnrho rau cov xwm txheej tseem ceeb. Txawm li cas los xij, lawv yuav tsis ruaj khov npaum li cov qib qis dua, yog li kuv khaws cia rau kev siv tsawg dua.
Cov ntaub ntawv ntawm cov neeg siv khoom qhia tau tias cov plaub mos mos, xws li Merino, muaj nqis heev rau nws qhov mos mos thiab qhov zoo nkauj. Cov plaub mos mos qib nruab nrab muaj kev siv tau ntau yam, thaum cov plaub mos mos ntxhib zoo heev hauv kev ruaj khov rau cov ntawv thov hnyav. Kev nkag siab txog cov kev sib txawv no pab kuv phim qib kom haum rau kuv cov kev xav tau tshwj xeeb.
Nkag Siab Txog Tus Nqi-Cov Txiaj Ntsig ntawm Cov Qib Siab Dua
Cov ntaub plaub zoo dua feem ntau muaj tus nqi siab dua, tab sis cov txiaj ntsig tuaj yeem ua rau tus nqi tsim nyog. Cov plaub mos dua, xws li Super 180s lossis Super 200s, muaj tus nqi siab dua vim nws qhov mos mos thiab qhov zoo nkauj. Kev tshawb fawb lees paub tias qhov loj ntawm cov fiber cuam tshuam rau tus nqi plaub mos, nrog rau cov fibers zoo dua coj tus nqi lag luam zoo dua.
Txawm li cas los xij, kuv ib txwm xav txog tus nqi piv rau qhov siv. Rau kev hnav txhua hnub, kuv pom tias Super 100s txog Super 140s wool muaj tus nqi zoo tshaj plaws. Cov qib no muab kev sib npaug ntawm kev nplua nuj thiab kev siv tau yam tsis siv nyiaj ntau. Ntawm qhov tod tes, kev nqis peev rau cov qib siab dua yog qhov tsim nyog rau cov sijhawm tshwj xeeb lossis thaum tsim ib daim ntawv zoo nkauj.
Kev tshuaj xyuas nyiaj txiag kuj tseem qhia txog kev sib raug zoo ntawm txoj kab uas hla ntawm cov fiber thiab tus nqi. Piv txwv li, kev tshawb fawb los ntawm Erasmus thiab Delport (1987) thiab Nolan et al. (2013) lees paub tias cov plaub mos mos muaj nqis dua. Qhov kev nkag siab no pab kuv txiav txim siab zoo thaum xaiv cov ntaub, kom ntseeg tau tias kuv tau txais qhov zoo tshaj plaws rau kuv cov peev nyiaj.
Kev nkag siab txog qib plaub yog qhov tseem ceeb rau kev txiav txim siab zoo thaum yuav cov ntaub. Lub kaw lus Super 100s txog Super 200s cuam tshuam ncaj qha rau qhov kev xav, qhov zoo, thiab kev zoo nkauj ntawm cov plaub. Kuv ib txwm pom zoo kom xav txog tus kheej cov kev xav tau thiab kev nyiam kom xaiv cov ntaub plaub zoo meej rau txhua lub sijhawm.
Cov Lus Nug Feem Ntau
"Super" txhais li cas hauv kev ntsuas wool?
Daim ntawv lo "Super" qhia txog qhov zoo ntawm cov xov paj rwb. Cov lej siab dua, zoo li Super 150s, txhais tau tias cov xov paj zoo dua, ua rau cov ntaub mos dua thiab zoo nkauj dua.
Cov ntaub plaub zoo dua puas zoo dua?
Tsis tas li ntawd xwb. Cov qib siab dua, xws li Super 180s, muab qhov mos mos thiab zoo nkauj tab sis tej zaum yuav tsis ruaj khov. Yog tias hnav txhua hnub, kuv xav kom siv Super 100s txog Super 140s kom sib npaug.
Kuv yuav paub cov ntaub plaub zoo nkauj tiag tiag li cas?
Tshawb xyuas cov ntawv pov thawj xws li Woolmark lossis cov ntawv lo uas qhia txog qib Super. Kuv kuj nrhiav cov npe nrov thiab tshuaj xyuas cov ntaub zoo thiab qhov zoo ntawm cov xov.
Lub sijhawm tshaj tawm: Lub Rau Hli-09-2025