Tuatahi, me pātai atu ahau ki a koe: e rua ngā wāhanga o te hūtu: te papanga me ngā taputapu?
Kāo, he hē te whakautu. E toru ngā wāhanga o te hūtu: te papanga, ngā mea whakapaipai me te arai.
He mea tino nui te papanga me ngā taputapu, engari ko te kounga o te hūtu e whakawhirinaki ana ki te arai, nā te mea ka honoa e ia ngā rauemi ngāwari e rua, arā, te papanga me ngā taputapu.
Ko te huarahi iti te utu, he pai hoki mō ngā kākahu ko te whakamahi i te arai piri, ahakoa he mea hanga-ā-ringa katoa. Engari ko te utu mō te whakamahi i te arai piri, tera pea ka iti iho i te 2000 yuan. Mēnā ka iti te taumata o te arai piri i roto i tētahi wā, ka kitea e koe kāore e uru te kakahu me ngā taputapu, ka kukume tetahi ki tetahi ki tētahi atu huarahi, te āhua nei he wehenga o te takaro.
Hei tauira, me hanga he arai pai mō ngā hūtu pakihi i hangaia e YUNAI ki te huruhuru hipi, te rinena me te huruhuru hoiho. I roto i te poto, e hiahiatia ana te rauemi taiao. Ko te kaupapa he āwhina i te papanga o te hūtu me ngā taputapu kia neke haere i tētahi wāhi iti, me te āwhina anō hoki kia hoki anō ki te āhua taketake.
Ko te tuarua o ngā āhuatanga: ahakoa he maha ngā āhuatanga e pāngia ana e te kounga o ngā rauemi e whakamahia ana, ko te utu o te papanga inaianei kei te wāhi i ahu mai ai. He rerekē rawa te utu o ngā papanga o roto i te whare mai i ngā papanga kawemai, arā, nō Itari me Peretānia te nuinga.
Ko ngā papanga hūtu rongonui o te ao ko: Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis CanonICO, Reda, Cerruti 1881, Yunai, he kamupene huruhuru hipi Itari; koinei hoki te paearu mō te kounga o te huruhuru hipi. Ko Charles Clayton, ko ētahi e whā e whai ake nei, ko ngā kaihanga huruhuru hipi tawhito rawa atu me te tino utu nui o Peretānia. Ko ngā waitohu rongonui o te papanga hāte ko THOMAS Mason o Peretānia, Huiterangi Alumo, Itari Monti, Leggiuno, Ferno me ētahi atu. He maha ngā momo hūtu o tētahi toa hanga kakahu, ā, he toa hanga kakahu ngaio rawa ngā papanga hāte.
I te nuinga o te wā, he tino kaha ngā whakaritenga a ēnei wheketere mō ngā paerewa ngaio o ngā toa ritenga. Kia eke rā anō ki ngā paerewa e rite ana, ka whakamanahia te whakamahinga o ā rātou ake papanga me ngā tohu hokohoko. Hei tāpiri, ahakoa he papanga kāinga, he papanga kawemai rānei, he huruhuru hipi te nuinga o ngā kai, ā, tera atu anō ētahi atu kai, pērā i te kāhimere, engari ko ngā papanga kounga teitei he mea hanga ki ngā papanga tūturu kaua ki ngā rauemi hangai, engari kāore e taea te tino kaha te tono ki ngā papanga kāinga.
1. Kakahu huruhuru hipi parakore
Ko te papanga huruhuru hipi e pā ana ki te papanga i hangaia mai i te huruhuru hipi, i te huruhuru hipi rānei me te polyester, te viscose, te acrylic, me ētahi atu.
He papanga kākahu kounga teitei te huruhuru hipi parakore, he ma, ka taea te whakaranu ki tētahi ōwehenga o te muka matū huruhuru, o tētahi atu muka taiao rānei, ā, ka tukatukahia mā te heru, te heru, te tā, te miro, te whatu, te tae me te whakaoti mō ngā wā maha.
He pai te ngāwari o te wāhi huruhuru kararehe, he āhua ngohengohe, he āhua huruhuru huruhuru motuhake, he ātete hoki ki te kiri mākū, ā, ka taea tonu te pupuri i te mahana o te ira ina mimitia te makuku, te werawera rānei.
He pakari ngā kākahu kua oti te hanga, he mea hanga ki te huruhuru hipi pai, ā, e kore e roa te wā e rerekē ai te āhua. He tino tapu ēnei nā te kore o te aurora. He maeneene, he maeneene te kakano, he huatau te āhua, he koi, he pakari, he tino pā, he tawhito te momo, he ngawari, he māori te kanapa, me ērā atu.
Ko te mea e kiia nei ko te huruhuru hipi me te huruhuru hipi, i ngana ki te whakamārama, mai i te koki e rua, ko tētahi kei runga ake i te muka, ko tētahi hei whatu, ko te muka miro he 32, neke atu rānei i te 40, tatauhia te muka maeneene, he iti ake ngā hononga, he matotoru te āhua taiao, he ātete pai ki te pakū, he pai te whakamarie. Ko tētahi atu ko te whatu, ko te papanga huruhuru hipi he mea whatu ki te mīhini kakahu pai, ka ārai i te pakaru o te muka, he teitei te tohu matotoru, he ngāwari te whati o te hononga o te papanga huruhuru hipi, he rerekētanga ātete kakahu taiao, kāore i te pai te matotoru.
He angiangi te nuinga o ngā papanga huruhuru parakore i hangaia ki te worsted, he maeneene te mata, he mārama hoki ngā rārangi.
He pakari, he ngawari, he ngāwari te tinana.
Puritia te rauemi i muri i te wetewete, kāore he kopa, ahakoa he iti noa te kopa ka ngaro atu i roto i te wā poto rawa.
Te tautuhi i te papanga huruhuru parakore:
Ko te papanga huruhuru hipi parakore, he ngawari te tae māori, he pai hoki te pānga ki te wera, te mea tuatahi hei hanga hūtu me ngā koti teitei.
Engari ināianei kua piki haere te maha o ngā papanga huruhuru hipi, nā te whakapainga o te hangarau kakahu, kua eke ki te taumata e uaua ana ki te tautuhi i te nuinga o ngā kaihoko, engari he iti ake te tae, te mahana, te ahua me ērā atu i ngā papanga huruhuru hipi parakore.
Kei raro nei ētahi tikanga hei tautuhi i te papanga huruhuru hipi parakore, hei tohutoro māu i te wā e whiriwhiri ana i te kākahu me te paraoa.
Tuatahi, pā.
He maeneene te āhua o ngā papanga huruhuru hipi parakore, he roa hoki, me te ahua maeneene, he wiri hoki te huruhuru whakamuri. Ā, ko te muka matū whakaranu, ko te muka matū parakore rānei, ko ētahi he ngoikore ake, ko ētahi he tino ngawari, he wetewete, ā, he piri.
Tuarua, tirohia te tae.
He ngawari, he tūturu, he kanapa, he pumau te tae o te papanga huruhuru hipi parakore. He rerekē, he pouri ake te mata o te muka matū whakaranu, o te muka matū parakore rānei, he kanapa ake rānei, he kanapa ake rānei.
Tuatoru, tirohia te ngāwari.
Puritia te papanga kia mau ki te ringa, kātahi ka tukuna tonutia kia kite ai i te ngāwari o te papanga. He nui te tere whakahokinga mai o te papanga huruhuru parakore, ka taea te whakahoki wawe ki tōna āhua taketake, ā, he ngoikore te ātete ki ngā kita, he kitea rawatia ngā tohu kita, he puhoi rānei te whakaora.
Tuawhā. Te tautuhi i te mura.
Tangohia he paihere miro, whakamahia te ahi, he kakara te muka huruhuru parakore he rite ki te makawe e mura ana, he kakara te muka matū he rite ki te kirihou e mura ana. Ka pakeke ake ngā matūriki i muri i te tahunga, ka nui ake ngā wāhanga muka matū.
1. Te tautuhi i te pūtake kotahi.
Mā te karu hiko e tirotiro ngā kararehe katoa he unahi ō rātou. Ki te mea he roa ngā huruhuru o ngā kakahu, me whakatakoto he huruhuru pēnei i runga ake nei kia maha ngā wā ka neke ake, ka heke iho rānei (kia mōhio ai koe ki tēnei pūkenga, ka taea te tango i te huruhuru mai i te whakamātautau tuatahi). Ki te mea he kakahu noa, tangohia te miro pakiaka, tapahia kia 2 cm te roa o ngā paraka e rua kia kotahi te muka, miria ki te ringaringa kia whā, kia rima rānei, kāore e neke.
2. He papanga whakaranu huruhuru hipi me te polyester
He papanga huruhuru hipi whakaranu, arā, he kāhimere, he polyester, he spandex, he huruhuru rāpeti me ētahi atu muka, me ngā papanga huruhuru hipi whakaranu. He papanga huruhuru hipi whakaranu me te polyester, he mura te mata i raro i te rā, he pakari, he mārō te papanga, he pai te ngāwari, he ngāwari te pupuri i te papanga, tata kore he kita.
Te ahunga o te piko, te piko, te matotoru o te piko
— Te ahunga o te roa o te papanga;
Ka kiia ngā miro taha he miro whenu;
Ko te maha o ngā miro kua whakaritea i roto i te 1 inihi te matotoru o te whenu;
Te ahunga o te whatu, te whakakī me te mātotoru whakakī
— Te ahunga o te whānui o te papanga;
Ka kiia te miro ko te miro whatu, ā, ko te maha o ngā miro i roto i te inihi te mātotoru o te miro.
Kiato
— E whakamahia ana hei tohu i te maha o ngā miro mō ia roa o te papanga whakawhiti, ko te nuinga o te wā ko te maha o ngā miro i roto i te 1 inihi, 10 henimita rānei. E ai ki ngā paerewa ā-motu o Haina, ko te maha o ngā miro i roto i te 10 henimita te tohu i te mātotoru, engari kei te whakamahia tonutia e ngā umanga kakahu te maha o ngā miro i roto i te 1 inihi hei tohu i te mātotoru.
Hei tauira, ko te "45×45/108×58" e kitea whānuitia ana e pā ana ki ngā miro whatu me ngā miro whenu e 45, ko te mātotoru o te 108 me te 58.
Whānui
— Ko te whānui whai hua o te papanga e whakaatuhia ana i roto i ngā inihi, i ngā henimita rānei. Ko ngā mea e kitea whānuitia ana ko te 36 inihi, te 44 inihi, te 56-60 inihi, me ētahi atu, e kiia ana ko te whaiti, te waenga me te whānui. Ko ngā papanga neke atu i te 60 inihi he whānui rawa atu, e kiia ana ko te papanga whānui-whānui.
Ko te whānui ka tohua i muri i te mātotoru. Hei tauira, ki te tāpirihia te whānui ki te papanga i whakahuatia i roto i te: 3, ka whakaatuhia ko "45×45/108×58/60" ", arā, ko te whānui he 60 inihi.
Taumaha
— Ko te taumaha karamu o te papanga ko te taumaha karamu o te papanga i roto i ngā mita pūrua. He tohu hangarau nui te taumaha karamu o ngā papanga whatu, ā, ko te taumaha karamu te tohu hangarau nui mō ngā papanga huruhuru hipi.
Ko te taumaha karamu o te tenimu ka whakaaturia whānuitia ko "OZ", arā, ko te maha o ngā auneke o te taumaha papanga mō ia iari tapawha, pērā i te 7 auneke, te 12 auneke o te tenimu, me ētahi atu.
Miro-tae
I Hapani, ka kiia ko te "kakahu tae", arā, ko te tukanga tae i te miro, i te miro rānei, kātahi ka whatu i te kakahu ki te miro tae. Ka kiia tēnei momo kakahu ko te "kakahu tae-miro". Ko ngā wheketere e whakaputa ana i te kakahu tae-miro ka kiia ko ngā wheketere tae me te whatu, pērā i te tenimu, ā, ko te nuinga o ngā papanga hāte he tae-miro.
3. He papanga whakaranu huruhuru hipi me te viscose
He ngoikore te kanapa.
He ngoikore te āhua o te huruhuru hipi, he wetewete ia te āhua o te huruhuru hipi.
He iti ake te ngāwari o tēnei momo papanga, he iti ake hoki te pakari i te huruhuru hipi parakore me te huruhuru hipi-polyester, he papanga whakaranu huruhuru hipi-pai. Mēnā he nui ake te ihirangi viscose, he ngāwari te whakapiko i te papanga.
Ko te muka matū parakore, he rite ki te huruhuru hipi, he papanga viscose tuku iho, ko te muka huruhuru horihori hei rauemi mata mō te papanga huruhuru hipi, he ngoikore te kanapa, he ngawari te āhua, kāore he āhua pakari. Nā te mea he ngoikore te ngāwari, he ngāwari te āhua, ā, kāore e memeha. He tikanga whai hua tēnei ki te tautuhi i te papanga viscose, arā, ka heke te kaha o te miro i tangohia mai i te papanga ina mākū i tērā ina maroke. Hei tāpiri, ka whakapakeke, ka matotoru hoki tēnei papanga huruhuru hipi i muri i te rumakina. I te whanaketanga o te pūtaiao me te hangarau, kua piki ake hoki te tae, te āhua, me te pakari o ngā hua huruhuru hipi rūpahu.
Ngā Momo Matua:
Huruhuru rāpeti
Ko te tikanga, he wāhanga motuhake o te huruhuru rāpeti me te huruhuru hipi ka whakaranua, ka whatuhia. Ko ngā āhuatanga o te hāte rāpeti kei roto i ōna muka angiangi, he maeneene, he rite ki te ware pi, he ngawari, he puhuruhuru te mata, ā, he pai te puhuruhuru. He whakamarie, he taiao hoki te mau, ā, he ngāwari te taka o te mata o waenganui.
Ki te whakamahia te tukanga o te hanga i te hāte, kātahi ka tae (arā, te raranga, kātahi ka tae), ka nui ake te parakore me te ataahua o te tae me te kanapa, ā, he āhua ahurei te whatu, he mea tino pai mō ngā kākahu o waho o ngā wāhine taitamariki.
makawe muka matū
Ko te āhuatanga noa o ngā kākahu ko tōna māmā.
He rite ki te wetewete hāte kiriaku, he maha ngā wā e whatu ana ki te miro matotoru kiriaku, he kaha te āhua o te huruhuru hipi, he kanapa te tae, he māmā, he ngawari te kounga o te rauemi, he 0-4.5% anake te tere whakahoki mai i te makuku, he teitei ake te kaha whati o te muka i te muka huruhuru hipi, kāore e memenge, engari he iti ake te tere whakahoki mai i te ngāwari i te huruhuru hipi, he iti ake te mahana o te tinana i te hāte huruhuru hipi parakore, he iti te utu, engari he ngāwari te tango, he pai mō ngā kākahu tamariki.
Nō nā tata nei, kua piki ake te mākete o te ao ki te miro kiriaku, te muka polyamide, me te miro mohair peita kiriaku whakarerekētia, ā, ka taea te whakarite ki ngā hāte me te huruhuru rāpeti tūturu me ngā kākahu mohair.
Huruhuru kararehe i konatunatua ki ngā muka matū
He "āhuatanga tautoko" tōna e rite ana ki ngā huruhuru kararehe me ngā muka matū, ā, he huruhuru tōna āhua, ka pai ake te kaha whakaroa, ā, ka whakaitihia te utu mō te hāte. He hua pai, he iti hoki te utu.
Engari i roto i te hāte whakaranu, kei reira te raruraru kāore i te tino pai te pānga tae nā te rerekētanga o te kaha tae me te mimiti tae o ngā momo muka rerekē.
4. Rauemi muka horihori rite ki te huruhuru hipi
Ko ngā Piritana te hunga tuatahi ki te ako i te tangohanga o te pūmua mai i te kāpia kararehe hei hanga muka pūmua horihori.
I te tau 1935, i ngana ētahi tāngata i Itari ki te tango tiihi mai i te miraka hei hanga huruhuru hipi horihori.
Mai i taua wā, kua angitu ētahi whenua ki te hanga muka horihori mai i te pūmua pīni soya me te pūmua pīnati.
Nā ngā raruraru e pā ana ki te whaihua me te utu hanga o aua muka, he iti noa iho te hanga.
He mangu te tae o YUNAI, kāore e pakari te āhua, nā te ngoikore o te ngāwari, he tino ngāwari te āhua, ā, he uaua ki te ngaro.
E rua ngā momo muka i hangaia e te tangata: te muka i hangaia anōtia me te muka matū. Ko te muka i hangaia anōtia ko te muka viscose i hangaia mai i te muka rakau me te tarutaru mā te tukatuka matū.
He muka hangai te muka matū i hangaia mai i te hinu, te hau māori, te waro me ngā hua ahuwhenua.
E ai ki te āhua me te whakamahinga o ngā muka i hangaia e te tangata, e toru ngā momo: te rayon, te rayon me te huruhuru hipi.
Ko ngā momo nui ko te muka viscose, te muka acetate, te muka parahi haukini me ētahi atu.
Ka taea te wehewehe i ngā muka whakahou ki te muka cellulose whakahou, te muka cellulose ester, te muka pūmua me ētahi atu muka polymer tūturu.
Ōna āhuatanga ki te whakataurite ki ngā muka matū, arā, ngā muka tēpara.
Ko te papanga muka hanga-tangata ko te miro muka viscose me te papanga muka matua, arā, te miro hanga-tangata e mōhiotia ana e te tangata, te rayon me ētahi atu.
Hei tāpiritanga, kei roto hoki he wāhanga o te papanga muka momona me te papanga muka roa-waenga i waenganui i te miro me te titi.
Nō reira, ko ngā āhuatanga o ngā papanga muka tangata e whakatauhia ana e ngā āhuatanga o ngā muka viscose.
He ngawari ngā papanga reimana me te raimana ki te pā, he ngāwari ki te manawa, he whakamarie ki te mau, ā, he kanapa hoki ngā tae.
He pai te waikura o te papanga muka hanga-tangata, ā, ko tōna waikura te mea pai rawa atu i roto i ngā muka matū. Engari he tino iti tōna kaha mākū, tata ki te 50% o te kaha maroke anake, ā, he nui ake te tere mimiti o te papanga, nō reira me mimiti i mua i te tapahi.
He pai te āhua o te kakahu viscose noa, he pakari, he pakari, he ātete ki te kita, ā, he ngoikore te tiaki i tōna āhua, ā, he ngāwari ki te kita.
He pai te ātete o te muka viscose ki te waikawa me te kawakore, te ātete ki te rā me ētahi atu rongoā.
5. He rauemi huruhuru hipi rite ki te muka matū parakore
Ko te tikanga, ko te muka hangai te rauemi matua, ko te muka hangai, ko te hiraka tae rānei hei miro āwhina, ā, ko ētahi muka hangai hou hei rauemi matua, me te hanganga papanga e tika ana. E rua ngā momo papanga o tēnei momo, he rite ki te pāpaka, he momo tūturu.
He āhua tūturu tōna, he āhua rite ki te muka tūturu.
He kanapa te tae o te kakahu, he kanapa, he pakari, he ngāwari hoki te whakamahi, he mea pai mō te marea.
Ko te muka matū o te huruhuru hipi, te āhuatanga noa o ngā kākahu, he mama ake.
He rite ki te wetewete hāte kiriaku, he maha ngā wā e whatu ana ki te miro matotoru kiriaku, he kaha te āhua o te huruhuru hipi, he kanapa te tae, he māmā, he ngawari te kounga o te rauemi, he 0-4.5% anake te tere whakahoki mai i te makuku, he teitei ake te kaha whati o te muka i te muka huruhuru hipi, kāore e memenge, engari he iti ake te tere whakahoki mai i te ngāwari i te huruhuru hipi, he iti ake te mahana o te tinana i te hāte huruhuru hipi parakore, he iti te utu, engari he ngāwari te tango, he pai mō ngā kākahu tamariki.
Nō nā tata nei, kua piki ake te mākete o te ao ki te miro miro whakaranu muka polyamide, miro mohair peita kiriaku whakarerekētia, ā, ka taea te whakarite ki te huruhuru rāpeti tūturu me ngā kākahu mohair.
He huruhuru kararehe me te muka matū i konatunatua ki te huruhuru kararehe, ā, he "āhuatanga tautoko" ngā momo huruhuru kararehe me te muka matū, kia āhua rite ai te huruhuru hipi, kia kaha ake ai te roa, kia iti ake ai te utu o te hāte, ā, he hua iti, he hua pai hoki.
Engari i roto i te hāte whakaranu, kei reira te raruraru he rerekē te kaha o ngā momo muka ki te tae me te mimiti tae, ā, kāore e tino pai te pānga tae.
Te wehewehe i waenga i te muka matū, he rite ki te huruhuru hipi, me te papanga huruhuru hipi parakore:
Ko te nuinga o ngā papanga huruhuru hipi he muka matū, ā, he nui ake ngā muka viscose, pērā i te polyester/viscose huruhuru hipi roa-waenga, te polyester parakore me ētahi atu hua huruhuru hipi.
Tuatahi, he rerekē te kanapa.
He ngohengohe, he tūturu te nuinga o te papanga huruhuru parakore, engari kāore i te tino ataahua te tae. He nui ngā tae o te papanga huruhuru rūpahu, ā, he kanapa. Ki te titiro marie koe i raro i te rā, ka kite pinepine koe i ngā māramatanga kanapa, kanapa hoki.
Kāore e taea te wehewehe i tēnei āhuatanga o te whai i te huruhuru hipi kia rite ki te papanga huruhuru hipi.
Tuarua, he rerekē te āhua me te ngāwari.
He ngawari te āhua o ngā papanga huruhuru hipi parakore, he āhua māeneene, he wheua te āhua, he paku miro engari kāore i te mārō, he ngawari engari kāore i te tika te hoki whakamuri;
Ahakoa he rite te āhua o te polyester ki te huruhuru hipi, he ngawari, he maeneene te āhua, kāore he wheua i roto i te tinana, he nui ake te kita, ā, he puhoi te hoki whakamuri.
Tuatoru, tahuna te hiraka i muri i te tuhi.
Ka kitea te miro huruhuru parakore i muri i te kore taurite o te muka huruhuru, he rerekē te roa, he miro tūturu, ā, he rite te roa o te muka o te miro viscose ki te miro huruhuru, he rite tonu te matotoru.
I muri i te tahunga, i muri i te mura mārire o te ahi, ka haere tonu te mura o te ahi, ka puta te kakara o te pungarehu, he poraka pango pakari, ka huri hei paura mō ngā kakahu huruhuru parakore, ā, tata ki te ahi ka mura, ka tere te mura, he mura kōwhai, ka piri te mura, ka rere ngāwari ngā pungarehu he hina mārama, he mā, ā, ka waiho he puranga polyester/viscose uaua ki te kuru.
Ka waiho hoki he pūngāwerewere pango i muri i te tahunga.
Mai i te rua ki te rua, neke atu rānei o ngā kai, o te papanga whatu rānei: te huruhuru hipi/viscose, te huruhuru hipi/polyester, te huruhuru hipi/hiraka, te huruhuru hipi/viscose/spandex, me ētahi atu, ehara i te mea me mārama noa ki ngā momo āhua me ngā āhuatanga o te muka, engari me whakamahi i te tikanga tautuhi muka maha, mai i te titiro anō, te tahu i te wera ki te whakamātautau i muri i te whakamātautau, ka taea te whakatau haumaru.
6. Huruhuru Mercerized
He rauemi huruhuru hipi noa te whakamahi i te mercerizing i muri i te maimoatanga matū me te maimoatanga ā-tinana, ka whakangaromia te muka huruhuru mā te whakamahi i te matū hei whakamātautau i te muka, kia maeneene, kia kanapa, kia ātete ki te mimiti i te horoinga, ā, he pai mō ngā kākahu marena.
Ko te whakamārō i te huruhuru hipi ko te tukatuka i ngā hua huruhuru hipi i roto i te tukanga whakamārō i te tae me te whakaoti i te huruhuru hipi.
Me whakamāota te huruhuru hipi ki te Basolan DC, me rongoā rānei ki te protease hei whakangaro i ngā unahi o te mata o te huruhuru hipi, hei whakaiti hoki i te rerekētanga i waenga i te tauwehenga waku i te nekehanga whakamua me te nekehanga whakamuri o te huruhuru hipi. Whai muri i te rongoā, ka whakanuia te kanapa o te huruhuru hipi, e mōhiotia whānuitia ana ko te huruhuru hipi mercerized.
Ka taea te whatu i te huruhuru hipi mercerized mai i te huruhuru hipi parakore, i te huruhuru hipi whakaranu rānei.
Ko ngā āhuatanga matua he ārai i te mimiti, ka taea te horoi mīhini, ā, he ārai i te pupuhi.
I ahu mai te hangarau huruhuru hipi Mercerized i waenganui o te tekau tau atu i 1990, he hangarau tae me te whakaoti hou i whakawhanakehia i runga i te hangarau tuku iho o te chlorination me te aukati i te whakahekenga mō te huruhuru hipi.
He rite te āhua o te huruhuru hipi kua maimoatia ki te kāhemere, ā, he kanapa maeneene hoki.
Nā ēnei āhuatanga, ka tere te rongonui o ngā hua whakakoi huruhuru hipi.
Tae noa mai ki tēnei wā, he tino rongonui te huruhuru hipi mercerized, ā, kua nui ake te wāhi mākete i te huruhuru hipi noa.
He rerekē ngā ariā o te huruhuru hipi mercerized i Haina me ētahi atu whenua o te ao. I Haina, ko te huruhuru kua tangohia te whākawae ka kiia he huruhuru mercerized, ko te huruhuru hipi o te ao ka kohuatia mā roto i te mamaoa wera, ā, ka totorohia mā te 30% ~ 50%. Kātahi, i muri i te whakamatao ki te wai matao me te hanga, ka kiia te huruhuru hipi roa me te angiangi he huruhuru mercerized.
7.Huruhuru
Ko te huruhuru hipi e kiia whānuitia ana ko te papanga muka huruhuru hipi.
He mea whakakotahi te muka huruhuru hipi i ngā ngota pūmua, he āhua rite ki te paparanga kotahi o te hanganga unahi piripono, he mea kapi pai, he iti noa te hanganga o te kongakonga, ko tōna painga he ārai i te paru ki roto i te muka, ā, kāore e ngāwari te paru o ngā kākahu huruhuru hipi.
He maha ngā momo papanga ka tūtaki ngā kaihoroi maroke i a rātou e horoi ana i a rātou, ā, he mea noa anō hoki ngā kākahu huruhuru hipi.
Ko te take e puta ai te mārama kanapa i te huruhuru hipi:
(1) Kua pakaru te paparanga unahi haona i runga i te mata o te muka huruhuru hipi;
(2) Ka mirimiri mārire te puehu me te paru, ka piri ki te awaawa, kia maeneene ai te mata o te kakahu, ka puta he hurihanga auau o te mārama, ka puta he mārama kanapa.
Ngā huarahi hei tango i te māramatanga:
(1) Ka taea te huri i te taro hei paraoa, ka horahia ki te māramatanga, mā te whakamahi i te rino hei rino;
(2) Te whakapūkara: Ruia te wai waikawa acetic me te kukū o te 3-5% me te pāmahana o te 50℃ mō te 3-5 meneti, kātahi ka horoia ki te wai mārama.
Ka taea hoki te whakamahi i te winika mā.
(3) Paraia ki te paraihe i te wā e horoi ana.
He muka taiao te muka, he hua nō ngā purapura tipu, ngā kakau me ngā rau, he maha ngā matū o te muka miro, kāore i te kounga pai, he ira hydrophilic ake, he pai te hygroscopicity, he mimiti werawera, he uruhanga hau, he whakamarie, he mātao, he ngawari, kāore e piri ki ngā āhuatanga o te muka miro, he mea whakamahi whānuitia i roto i te umanga kakahu, he mea e manakohia ana e te kaihoko.
Ngā Painga: he ngawari, he pīwariwari ki te ringa, he kanapa ngawari, he ātaahua ki te mau, he pai te āhua, he pai te mimiti i te makuku, kāore e ngāwari ki te kawe wera, he pai te tiaki i te wera, he ātete ki te miro, inā koa i muri i te tukatuka me te rino i te kākahu, he pai ake te hanga miro me te tiaki i te āhua o te kākahu;
Kia mōhio: Kaua e tino teitei rawa te pāmahana horoi, kaua e mirimiri, kaua hoki e kōmiomi kia kore ai e whiti te rā.
Pēhi: Te rino mākū, te rino maroke i te papanga mai i te taha kē.
Ngā huakore: ātete ki te kawakore, mimiti, ngāwari ki te mirimiri.
8. Kakahu huruhuru-polyester
Kakahu huruhuru hipi-polyester (huru hipi-polyester): He papanga i hangaia mai i ngā miro huruhuru hipi me te polyester kua whakaranua, te momo papanga huruhuru hipi tino noa.
He papanga i hangaia mai i te miro huruhuru hipi me te polyester kua whakaranua.
Ko te ōwehenga noa o te ranunga huruhuru hipi-polyester he 45:55, e kore e taea anake te pupuri i te painga o te huruhuru hipi, engari ka tino whai hua hoki te painga o te polyester.
Tata ki ngā papanga taratara katoa me ngā papanga worsted he momo ranunga huruhuru hipi-polyester.
Ko te kakahu angiangi putiputi wūru-polyester worsted, e kiia ana hoki ko te cool, e mōhiotia whānuitia ana ko te wool really cool, te mea tino whakaata i ngā āhuatanga whakaranu wūru-polyester o tētahi o ngā papanga.
Kei reira te whenu me te miro paparua, te whenu paparua, te whenu papatahi me te whenu papatahi.
Ko te tikanga he 50 ~ 70 te miro takirua mō ngā tāne, ā, ko ngā papanga angiangi he 100 ~ 120 te miro takirua mō ngā tāne.
Ko te taumaha o te papanga he tata ki te 170 ~ 190 karamu/m².
Ki te whakatauritea ki te huruhuru tweed, he māmā te kakano o te huruhuru tweed angiangi-polyester, he pai te whakaora i ngā kita, he mārō, he ātete ki te kakahu, he ngāwari ki te horoi, he tere te maroke, he pakari te miro, he pumau te rahi, engari kāore i te maeneene pērā i te huruhuru.
Mena he polyester māmā te rauemi mata, ka kanapa te mata o te hiraka.
Ki te whakamahia te huruhuru kararehe motuhake pērā i te kāhimere, te huruhuru kamera rānei hei rauemi mata mō te whakaranu, ka nui ake te pahekeheke me te piri.
Ko te ōwehenga noa o te ranunga huruhuru hipi-polyester he 45:55, e kore e taea anake te pupuri i ngā painga o te huruhuru hipi, engari ka taea hoki te whakamahi i ngā painga o te polyester.
Ngā Painga: he huruhuru hipi kua konatunatua ki te polyester, he māmā, he māmā hoki te kakano, he pai te mahi whakaora i ngā kita.
He pakari, he ngāwari ki te horoi me te whakamaroke, he pumau te rahi, he pakari ina mau
Ngā Wāhi Horoi: Me rumaki tuatahi ki te wai matao mō te 15 meneti, kātahi ka horoia ki te hopi hangai. Kaua te pāmahana o te wai horoi e neke ake i te 45 nekehanga. Me paraihe mārire te kara, te ringaringa ki te paraihe huruhuru ngohengohe i ngā wāhi paru. I muri i te horoinga, me takai mārire. Me horoi ki te wāhi hauhautanga, hauhautanga, kaua e whakamaroke, kei maroke, kei pakari te kiri.
9.T/R papanga
Ko tētahi o ngā āhuatanga o te papanga T/R ko te hanga i te koti kara tū, te koti whētui me ngā kākahu o ia rā me te nui o ngā papanga T/R whakairo, whiri, kanapa, tae kotahi rānei.
Ko te papanga T/R he papanga whakaranu polyester viscose. Ko te polyester viscose whakaranu he momo ranunga tāpiri. Ehara i te mea ko te miro, te huruhuru hipi, me te huruhuru hipi roa-waenga anake te polyester viscose. Ko te papanga huruhuru hipi e mōhiotia whānuitia ana ko te "pahi tere". Ina iti iho i te 50% te polyester, ka taea e tēnei momo papanga whakaranu te pupuri i te polyester kia pakari, kia ātete ki ngā kita, kia pumau te rahi, kia taea te horoi me te mau i ngā āhuatanga kaha. Mā te whakaranu i te muka viscose ka pai ake te uruhanga hau o te papanga me te ātete ki te kōhao rewa. Kua whakaitihia te āhua o te paparanga me te ārai-pūmau o te papanga.
Whakamahia te 65/35, 67/33 rānei mō te ōwehenga polyester/viscid-blend. He rite tonu te ranunga polyester/viscose ki te polyester/viscose. Ko ngā āhuatanga o tēnei momo papanga whakaranu he maeneene, he ma, he kanapa ngā tae, he kaha te āhua o te huruhuru hipi, he pai te ngāwari o te ringa, he pai te mimiti i te makuku; engari he ngoikore te pumau.
Ngā Painga: mārō, ātete ki ngā kita, pumau te rahi, ka taea te horoi me te mau.
Ka taea e ia te whakapai ake i te uruhanga hau o te papanga, te whakaiti i te puranga me te āhuatanga antistatic.
Ngā wāhi horoi: Ka taea te whakamahi i te mīhini horoi, kaua e mirimiri ki te paraihe, kia kore ai e maroke tetahi taha.
10. Teitei-kiato NC
Ko te papanga NC kiato teitei he momo papanga e whakaranua ana, e whatuhia ana rānei ki te poly-amide (nailona) me te miro miro.
Ka whakakotahihia e te hua ngā painga o te miro nairona me te miro miro.
Ko te kaha o te nairona ki te mau te mea tuatahi i roto i ngā muka taiao me ngā muka matū. He pai ake te mimiti makuku o te nairona i te polyester, ā, he pai ake ōna āhuatanga whakamarie me te tae i ngā polyester. Nō reira, kāore e whakaitihia te mimiti makuku me te whakamarie mau o te miro miro ina whakaranua, ina whatuhia rānei ki te miro miro.
He tino ngāwari te miro nairona. I muri i te whakaranu, te whatu rānei ki te miro miro, ka pai ake te ngāwari o te papanga.
Ko te ngoikoretanga o te papanga NC: nā te mea he nairona te rauemi e whakamahia ana i te raranga, i te whakaranu rānei, he ngoikore te ātete o te papanga ki te wera me te ātete ki te mārama. Kia tupato ki te horoi me te rino i te wā e whakamahia ana kia tutuki ai ngā tikanga, kia kore ai e pakaru.
Ko ōna āhuatanga tino kitea: ehara i te mea ngāwari ki te mau, he ngawari, he whakamarie hoki, he ngāwari ki te horoi.
Kaua e tahuna ki te rā, kaua hoki e kōwiria.
Ngā wāhi horoi: Kaua e whakamaroke, whakamarokehia i te pōuri.
Tikanga tiaki: kaua e kakahuria te wā, whakahokia ki te kohinga papatahi putea kirihou.
Wā tuku: Hakihea-17-2024