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"Kei te whakaū ake a [Tenimu] i tōna tūranga i te mākete," te kī a Manon Mangin, te tumuaki o ngā hua ahua i Denim Première Vision.
Ahakoa kua kitea anō e te umanga tenimu tōna āhua pai rawa atu, kei te tūpato anō hoki kei te whakatakoto i ana hua katoa ki roto i te kete kotahi pērā i ngā tau tekau ki muri, i te wā i whakawhirinaki ai te nuinga o ngā umanga ki te hoko o ngā tenimu kikokore tino totoro hei oranga mō ā rātou moni.
I te Denim Première Vision i Milan i te Wenerei - te huihuinga tinana tuatahi i roto i te tata ki te rua tau - i whakamārama a Mangin i ngā kaupapa matua e toru kua horapa puta noa i te umanga papanga me te kākahu tenimu.
I kī a Mangin ko te puna me te raumati o te tau 2023 he "wā hurihanga" mō te umanga tenimu ki te whanake ki ngā ariā ranu hou me ngā momo ohorere. Ko te whakakotahitanga whakamiharo o ngā kakahu me te "whanonga rerekē" ka taea e te papanga te hipa ake i ōna āhuatanga taketake. I tāpiri atu ia, ina whakarei ake ngā mira kakahu i ngā papanga mā te mātotoru pā, te ngawari me te rere, ko te arotahi o tēnei wā ko te pa ki te ahua.
I roto i te Urban Denim, ka hurihia e tēnei wāhanga ngā momo kākahu mahi whai hua hei momo kakahu pakari mō ia rā.
I konei, ka puta te āhua o te ranunga hemp, nā te kaha o te muka. I kī a Mangin ko te papanga tenimu tawhito i hangaia ki te miro waro me te hanganga pakari 3×1 e tutuki ana i te hiahia o ngā kaihoko mō te ahua whai hua. Ko te raranga uaua me te jacquard me ngā miro matotoru ka whakanui ake i te ataahua o te pa. I kī ia ko ngā koti he maha ngā putea papaki me te tuitui ko ngā mea matua i tēnei wā, engari kāore i te pakeke pērā i ngā papa raro. Ko te whakaotinga ā-wai e whakarei ake ana i te kaupapa hoahoa-tāone.
He huarahi huatau ake anō hoki te Tānemi Tāone ki te wetewete i te tānemi. Ko ngā tānemi me te tuitui rautaki e whakanui ana i te wāhanga hanga tauira o te mahi kākahu. Ko te mahi tānga tauwhiro pumau—ahakoa he mea hanga mai i ngā papanga para, he papanga hou rānei i hangaia mai i ngā muka hangarua—he ma, ā, ka taea te hanga i tētahi huinga tae ōrite.
Ko te tikanga whānui, ko te oranga tonutanga te kaupapa matua o ngā kaupapa hou. He mea hanga te tenimu ki te miro hangarua, te rinena, te hemp, te tencel me te miro waro, ā, i te whakakotahitanga me te hangarau whakaoti penapena pūngao me te penapena wai, kua noho hei mea noa. Heoi, he maha ake ngā papanga e hangaia ana me te kotahi momo muka anake, e whakaatu ana me pēhea te whakahaere a ngā wheketere i te tukanga hangarua i te mutunga o te oranga o te kākahu.
Ko te kaupapa tuarua o Denim Première Vision, arā, ko Denim Offshoots, i ahu mai i te hiahia nui o ngā kaihoko mō te whakamarie. I kī a Mangin ko te kaupapa ko te "whakangā, te herekore me te whakaoranga" o te ahua, ā, e tino whakanui ana i ngā kākahu hākinakina.
Ko tēnei hiahia mō te whakamarie me te oranga ngākau kei te akiaki i ngā wheketere ki te whakanui ake i te momo tenimu whatu. Ko ngā taonga tenimu whatu "kāore e herea" mō te kōanga me te raumati o te tau 23 ko ngā kākahu hākinakina, ngā tarau oma me ngā tarau poto, me ngā koti hūtu ātaahua.
Kua noho te hononga anō ki te taiao hei mahi whakangahau rongonui mā te tini tāngata, ā, kei te horapa haere tēnei ia ki te ao ahua i roto i ngā huarahi maha. Ka kawea mai e te papanga me te tānga wai me te mata ngaru he kare marino ki te tenimu. Ka whai wāhi ngā pānga kohuke me ngā tae taiao ki te kohikohinga o ngā mea. I roto i te wā, kua memeha haere te tānga putiputi ngawari o te laser. I kī a Mangin he mea nui rawa ngā tauira whakaaweawe tawhito mō ngā "pōtae tāone" tenimu, ngā corset rānei.
Ko te mahi a te tenimu momo-spa he whakapai ake i te āhua o ngā tarau. I mea ia, mā te ranunga viscose ka puta he āhua kiri pītiti ki te papanga, ā, ko ngā kākahu manawa me ngā koti kimono momo-ā-ringa i hangaia ki te ranunga lyocell me te modal kei te noho hei hua matua o tēnei wā.
Ko te tuatoru o ngā kōrero auaha, ko Enhanced Denim, e kapi ana i ngā taumata katoa o te wawata mai i te kanapa ataahua ki te "tino papai".
He kaupapa rongonui te jacquard whakairoiro me ngā tauira rauropi me ngā tauira āhua-kore. I kī ia ko te tae, te pānga huna me te miro wetewete ka hanga i te papanga miro 100% ki te mata kia matotoru. Ko te tae kotahi o te organza i te whitiki me te pute o muri ka tāpiri i te kanapa ngawari ki te tenimu. Ko ētahi atu momo kāhua, pērā i ngā corsets me ngā hāte pātene me ngā whakaurunga organza i ngā ringaringa, ka whakaatu i te pa o te kiri. "He wairua o te whakaritenga matatau," te tāpiri a Mangin.
Ka pāngia te ataahua o te Gen Z me ngā kaihoko taitamariki e te pepeke o te mano tau. Ko ngā taipitopito tino wahine—mai i ngā kōhatu kanapa, ngā karaihe āhua ngākau me ngā papanga kanapa ki ngā māwhero māia me ngā tānga kararehe—e tika ana mō te hunga e tipu ake ana. I kī a Mangin ko te mea nui ko te kimi i ngā taputapu me ngā whakapaipai ka taea te wetewete ngāwari mō te hangarua.
Wā tuku: Oketopa-15-2021