I te ao o ngā kakahu, ka pā nui te whiriwhiri i te raranga ki te āhua, te kakano, me te mahi a te kakahu. E rua ngā momo raranga e kitea whānuitia ana, ko te raranga māhorahora me te raranga twill, he āhuatanga motuhake tō ia momo. Me ruku tātou ki ngā rerekētanga i waenga i ēnei tikanga raranga.
Ko te whatu ma, e mōhiotia ana ko te whatu tabby, te momo whatu māmā rawa atu, ā, ko te mea tino taketake. Ko te whiri i te miro whatu (whakapae) ki runga, ki raro hoki i te miro whatu (poutū) i roto i te tauira ōrite, ka hangaia he mata papatahi, taurite hoki. Mā tēnei tikanga whatu māmā ka hua ake he papanga pakari me te kaha ōrite i ngā taha e rua. Ko ngā tauira o ngā papanga whatu ma ko te kakahu whānui miro, te muslin, me te calico.
I tētahi atu ringa, ko te raranga twill te tohu o tētahi tauira whakarara i hangaia mā te whiri o te miro whatu ki runga i ngā miro whatu maha i mua i te haere i raro i tētahi, i ētahi rānei. Mā tēnei whakaritenga whakarara ka hangaia he rara whakarara motuhake ki runga i te mata o te papanga. He maha ngā wā he ngohengohe te arai o ngā papanga raranga twill, ā, e mōhiotia ana mō tō rātou pakari me te pakari. Ko te tenimu, te gabardine, me te tweed ngā tauira noa o ngā papanga raranga twill.
Ko tētahi rerekētanga nui i waenga i ngā papanga whatu mania me ngā papanga whatu twill ko te kakano o te mata. Ahakoa he āhua papatahi, he ōrite hoki ngā papanga whatu mania, he kakano whakarara ngā papanga whatu twill e tāpiri ana i te ātaahua me te rahi. He nui ake te kitea o tēnei tauira whakarara i roto i ngā whatu twill he "whiri" teitei ake, he nui ake te kitea o ngā rārangi whakarara.
Heoi anō, he rerekē anō hoki te āhua o ēnei papanga e pā ana ki te ātete ki ngā kita me te ngāwari ki te tauera. He ngāwari ake te tauera o ngā papanga whatu miro, ā, he iti ake te tūponotanga ki ngā kita ki te whakaritea ki ngā papanga whatu noa. Nā tēnei ka tino pai ngā whatu miro mō ngā kākahu e hiahia ana kia pai ake te hanganga engari kia ngāwari te tauera, pērā i ngā tarau me ngā koti.
Hei tāpiritanga, he rerekē te uaua me te tere o te tukanga whatu mō ēnei papanga. He māmā noa iho, he tere hoki te hanga i ngā papanga whatu ma, ā, he iti te utu, he pai hoki mō te hanga papatipu. I tua atu, he uaua ake ngā tikanga whatu mō ngā papanga whatu twill, ā, ka puhoi ake te tukanga whakaputa, ā, ka nui ake pea ngā utu hanga.
Hei whakarāpopototanga, ahakoa he rerekē ngā mahi a ngā papanga whatu mania me ngā papanga whatu twill i roto i te umanga kakahu, he rerekē ngā āhuatanga o rāua i runga i te āhua, te kakano, te mahi, me ngā tikanga whakaputa. Mā te mārama ki ēnei rerekētanga ka taea e ngā kaihoko me ngā kaihoahoa te whakatau whai whakaaro i te wā e whiriwhiri ana i ngā papanga mō ā rātou kaupapa, hua rānei.
Wā tuku: Paenga-whāwhā-07-2024