Choyamba, ndikufunseni funso: kodi suti ili ndi magawo awiri: nsalu ndi zowonjezera?
Ayi, yankho lake ndi lolakwika. Suti imapangidwa ndi zigawo zitatu: nsalu, zowonjezera ndi mkati mwake.
Nsalu ndi zowonjezera ndizofunikira kwambiri, koma ubwino wa suti umadalira pa mkati mwake, chifukwa umalumikiza zinthu ziwiri zosiyana kwambiri, nsalu ndi zowonjezera.
Njira yotsika mtengo komanso yoyenera zovala ndikugwiritsa ntchito zomatira, ngakhale zopangidwa ndi manja, koma kugwiritsa ntchito suti yomatira kungakhalebe kochepera 2000 yuan. Izi zikusonyeza kuti suti yomatira yotsika kwambiri pakapita nthawi, mupeza kuti suti ya nsalu ndi zowonjezera sizingagwirizanenso, kukokerana mbali ina, zikuwoneka ngati kulekanitsa masewera.
Mwachitsanzo, zovala zabwino zogwirira ntchito zopangidwa ndi YUNAI ziyenera kupangidwa ndi ubweya, nsalu ndi ubweya wa kavalo. Mwachidule, nsalu zachilengedwe ndizofunikira. Cholinga chake ndi kuthandiza nsalu ndi zowonjezera kuti ziyende pang'ono pamene zikuwathandiza kuti azikonzanso.
Mbali yachiwiri: ngakhale kuti ubwino wa zipangizo zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito umakhudzidwa ndi zinthu zambiri, mtengo wa nsalu tsopano umadalira makamaka komwe unachokera. Mtengo wa nsalu zapakhomo umasiyana kwambiri ndi wa nsalu zochokera kunja, zomwe makamaka zimachokera ku Italy ndi Britain.
Nsalu zapamwamba kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi ndi izi: Ermenegildo Zegna, LORO PIANA, VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO, REDA, CERRUTI 1881, YUNAI, yomwe ndi kampani yayikulu ya ubweya ku Italy; Ndiwonso muyezo wa ubweya wabwino kwambiri. CHARLES CLAYTON, anayi otsatira ndi opanga ubweya akale kwambiri komanso amtengo wapatali ku Britain. Mitundu yapamwamba kwambiri ya nsalu za malaya ndi Britain THOMAS MASON, Switzerland Alumo, Italy MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO ndi zina zotero. Sitolo yogulitsa zovala zamtundu wa custom ili ndi mitundu yambiri ya masuti ndi nsalu za malaya ndi shopu yogulitsa zovala zaukadaulo kwambiri.
Kawirikawiri, mafakitale awa amakhala ndi zofunikira kwambiri pa miyezo ya akatswiri m'masitolo apadera. Pokhapokha akafika pa miyezo yoyenera, amavomereza kugwiritsa ntchito nsalu zawo ndi zizindikiro zawo. Kuphatikiza apo, kaya mumagwiritsa ntchito nsalu zapakhomo kapena zakunja, zosakaniza zake ndi ubweya, ndithudi, padzakhala zosakaniza zina, monga cashmere, koma nsalu zapamwamba zimapangidwa ndi nsalu zachilengedwe osati zopangira, koma simungapereke zofunikira kwambiri pa nsalu zapakhomo.
1. Nsalu yoyera yopangidwa ndi ubweya woipa
Nsalu ya ubweya imatanthauza nsalu yopangidwa ndi ubweya kapena ubweya ndi polyester, viscose, acrylic, ndi zina zotero.
Ubweya Worsted ndi nsalu yapamwamba kwambiri yopangidwa ndi ubweya wa nkhosa woyera komanso woyera, womwe ungasakanizidwe ndi ulusi wina wa ubweya kapena ulusi wina wachilengedwe, ndikukonzedwa pogwiritsa ntchito zida zopesa, kupesa, kulemba, kupota, kuluka, kupaka utoto ndi kumaliza nthawi zambiri.
Ili ndi kusinthasintha kwabwino komwe ubweya wa nyama umakhala nako, ndi mtundu wofewa, ndi mtundu wosiyana wa pansi komanso wotsutsana ndi ubweya, pamene umayamwa chinyezi kapena thukuta kumbuyo kuti ukhalebe ndi kugonana kofunda.
Zovala zopangidwa ndi nsalu zabwino zaubweya zimakhala zolimba ndipo sizingawonongeke kwa nthawi yayitali. Zimakhala zofewa kwambiri chifukwa chosowa aurora. Ndi zosalala komanso zosalala, zokongola, zosalala komanso zofewa, zokongola kwambiri, zapamwamba kwambiri, zofewa komanso zachilengedwe zokongola ndi zina zotero.
Chotchedwa worsted ndi ubweya, anayesa kufotokoza, kuchokera ku ngodya ya ziwiri chimodzi chili pamwamba pa ulusi, china ndi kuluka, kupota ulusi ndi 32 ndi kupitirira 40, kuwerengera ulusi wa zolumikizira zosalala, zochepa, kuchuluka kwachilengedwe, kukana kwabwino kwa kukwawa, chitonthozo chabwino, china ndi kuluka, nsalu yowopsyezedwa yolukidwa ndi makina abwino a nsalu, kupewa kusweka kwa ulusi, digiri yokhuthala ndi yayikulu, nsalu ya ubweya, cholumikizira, chosavuta kusweka, kusiyana kwachilengedwe kwa kukana kuvala, kuchuluka sikwabwino.
Nsalu zoyera zophwanyidwa ndi ubweya nthawi zambiri zimakhala zoonda, zokhala ndi pamwamba posalala komanso mizere yowonekera bwino.
Thupi lake ndi lolimba, lofewa komanso losalala.
Gwirani zinthuzo mutamasula, musapindike, ngakhale zitakhala kuti pali kupotoka pang'ono, zimathanso kutha nthawi yochepa kwambiri.
Kuzindikira nsalu ya ubweya woyera:
Nsalu ya ubweya woyera yokhala ndi mtundu wachilengedwe wofewa komanso kutentha bwino ndiyo njira yoyamba yopangira masuti ndi ma overcoats apamwamba.
Koma tsopano nsalu zambiri zonga ubweya, monga momwe ukadaulo wa nsalu ukupitira patsogolo, zafika pamlingo wa makasitomala ambiri ovuta kuzindikira, koma mtundu, kutentha, kumva ndi zina zotero ndizochepa kwambiri poyerekeza ndi nsalu za ubweya wokha.
Zotsatirazi zikuwonetsa njira zingapo zodziwira nsalu ya ubweya weniweni, zomwe zingakuthandizeni kusankha zovala ndi ufa.
Choyamba, kukhudza.
Nsalu zoyera za ubweya nthawi zambiri zimakhala zosalala, zazitali za ubweya pamodzi ndi kumva ngati tsitsi losalala, lobwerera m'mbuyo. Ndipo ulusi wosakaniza kapena wa mankhwala, zina zofewa pang'ono, zina zofewa kwambiri komanso zomasuka, komanso zimakhala zomata.
Chachiwiri, yang'anani mtundu.
Mtundu wa nsalu ya ubweya woyera ndi wofewa komanso wachilengedwe, wowala komanso wosatha. Mosiyana ndi zimenezi, pamwamba pake pali ulusi wosakaniza kapena wa mankhwala, kapena kuwala kwake ndi kwakuda, kapena kumakhala ndi kuwala kwa dzuwa.
Chachitatu, yang'anani kusinthasintha.
Gwirani nsalu mwamphamvu ndi dzanja, kenako muitulutse nthawi yomweyo kuti muwone momwe nsaluyo ilili yotanuka. Chiŵerengero cha kubweza kwa nsalu ya ubweya woyera ndi chachikulu, imatha kubwerera msanga momwe inalili poyamba, ndipo zinthu zosakaniza kapena za ulusi wa mankhwala, kukana makwinya ndi kochepa, makwinya ambiri oonekera bwino, kapena kuchira pang'onopang'ono.
Chachinayi. Kuzindikira kuyaka.
Tengani ulusi wambiri, gwiritsani ntchito moto, ulusi wa ubweya wokha umanunkhiza ngati tsitsi loyaka, ulusi wa mankhwala umanunkhiza ngati pulasitiki yoyaka. Tinthu timeneti tikamayaka kwambiri, timeneti timapeza ulusi wambiri.
1. Kuzindikira mizu imodzi.
Tsitsi pansi pa maikulosikopu kuti muwone nyama zonse zili ndi mamba, ngati nsalu zazitali za tsitsi zitatenga tsitsi monga momwe zilili pamwambapa, zidzakwera mmwamba kapena pansi (kuti muphunzire luso limeneli, mungatenge tsitsi kuchokera ku kuyesera koyamba), ngati ndi nsalu yachibadwa, kuchotsa ulusi wa mizu, kudula 2 cm ya ndime ziwirizo kukhala ulusi umodzi pansi pa dzanja, pukutani zinayi kapena zisanu, sizingasunthe.
2. Nsalu yosakaniza ubweya ndi polyester
Nsalu yosakaniza ubweya, monga cashmere, polyester, spandex, ubweya wa kalulu ndi ulusi wina ndi nsalu zosakaniza ubweya. Nsalu yosakaniza ubweya ndi polyester, pansi pa dzuwa, pamwamba pake pali poyatsira, nsaluyo ndi yolimba komanso yolimba, yolimba bwino, imasunga nsaluyo momasuka, palibe makwinya.
Malangizo a m'mbali, m'mbali, m'mbali
— Njira ya kutalika kwa nsalu;
Ulusi wa m'mbali umatchedwa ulusi wopindika;
Chiwerengero cha ulusi wokonzedwa mkati mwa inchi imodzi ndi kuchuluka kwa waya;
Kuwongolera kwa weft, kudzaza ndi kuchulukana kwa kudzaza
— Kulunjika kwa m'lifupi mwa nsalu;
Ulusiwo umatchedwa weft, ndipo chiwerengero cha ulusi mkati mwa inchi imodzi ndi kuchuluka kwa weft.
Kuchulukana
— Amagwiritsidwa ntchito kuyimira chiwerengero cha ulusi pa unit unit kutalika kwa nsalu yonyamula katundu, nthawi zambiri chiwerengero cha ulusi mkati mwa inchi imodzi kapena masentimita 10. Miyezo ya dziko la China imati chiwerengero cha ulusi mkati mwa masentimita 10 chimagwiritsidwa ntchito kuyimira kuchulukana, koma makampani opanga nsalu amagwiritsabe ntchito chiwerengero cha ulusi mkati mwa inchi imodzi kuyimira kuchulukana.
Mwachitsanzo, mawu oti “45×45/108×58” omwe amawonedwa kawirikawiri amatanthauza ulusi 45 wa weft ndi warp wokhala ndi kuchuluka kwa 108 ndi 58 motsatana.
M'lifupi
— Kutambalala kwa nsalu nthawi zambiri kumaonekera mu mainchesi kapena masentimita. Zofala kwambiri ndi mainchesi 36, mainchesi 44, mainchesi 56-60, ndi zina zotero, zomwe zimatchedwa zopapatiza, zapakati ndi zazikulu, motsatana. Nsalu zopitirira mainchesi 60 zimakhala zazikulu kwambiri, nthawi zambiri zimatchedwa nsalu yotakata.
M'lifupi nthawi zambiri mumakhala chizindikiro kumbuyo kwa kuchuluka kwa nsalu. Mwachitsanzo, ngati nsalu yomwe yatchulidwa mu: 3 yawonjezeredwa ndi m'lifupi, idzafotokozedwa ngati “45×45/108×58/60” “, mwachitsanzo m'lifupi ndi mainchesi 60.
Kulemera
— Kulemera kwa gramu ya nsalu nthawi zambiri kumakhala gramu ya kulemera kwa nsalu mu masikweya mita. Kulemera kwa gramu ndi chizindikiro chofunikira chaukadaulo cha nsalu zolukidwa, ndipo kulemera kwa gramu nthawi zambiri kumatengedwa ngati chizindikiro chofunikira chaukadaulo cha nsalu zaubweya.
Kulemera kwa gramu ya denim nthawi zambiri kumafotokozedwa ngati "OZ", ndiko kuti, kuchuluka kwa ma ounces a kulemera kwa nsalu pa sikweyadi iliyonse, monga ma ounces 7, ma ounces 12 a denim, ndi zina zotero.
Wopaka utoto wa ulusi
Ku Japan, amatchedwa "nsalu yopaka utoto", zomwe zikutanthauza njira yopaka utoto ulusi kapena ulusi kenako n’kuluka nsalu ndi ulusi wofiirira. Nsalu yamtunduwu imatchedwa "nsalu yopaka utoto ulusi". Mafakitale opanga nsalu yopaka utoto ulusi nthawi zambiri amatchedwa mafakitale opaka utoto ndi kuluka, monga denim, ndipo nsalu zambiri za malaya zimapaka utoto ulusi.
3. Nsalu yosakaniza ubweya ndi viscose
Kuwala kwake kuli kochepa.
Kumva koipa kwambiri kumakhala kofooka, pomwe kumva kofewa kumakhala kotayirira.
Nsalu yamtunduwu ndi yopyapyala komanso yosalala poyerekeza ndi ubweya wokha ndi polyester, nsalu yosakanikirana bwino ngati ubweya. Ngati kuchuluka kwa viscose kuli kokwera, nsaluyo ndi yosavuta kupindika.
Ulusi woyera wa mankhwala ngati ubweya nsalu yachikhalidwe ya viscose, ulusi wa ubweya wochita kupanga ngati zinthu zopangira nsalu yofanana ndi ubweya, kuwala kowala, kufewa, kusowa kumverera kolimba. Chifukwa kusinthasintha kumakhala kochepa, kumawoneka kosavuta kusweka, komanso kosavuta kutha. Ndi njira yothandiza yodziwira nsalu ya viscose kuti mphamvu ya ulusi wochotsedwa mu nsaluyo imachepa ikanyowa kuposa ikauma. Kuphatikiza apo, nsalu yofanana ndi ubweya iyi imauma ndikukhuthala ikanyowa. Ndi kupita patsogolo kwa sayansi ndi ukadaulo, zinthu zoyerekeza za ubweya mumtundu, kumva, komanso kulimba nazonso zakhala.
Mitundu Yaikulu:
Tsitsi la kalulu
Kawirikawiri, gawo lina la ubweya wa kalulu ndi ubweya wa nkhosa zimasakanizidwa ndi kupangidwa. Makhalidwe a jekete la kalulu amakhala mu ulusi wake wofewa, wosalala komanso wofewa, komanso wofewa bwino. Ndi lomasuka komanso lachilengedwe kuvala, ndipo tulo la pakati pa tulo ndi losavuta kugwa.
Ngati njira yoyamba yopangira juzi kenako n’kuipaka utoto (monga kuluka kenako n’kuipaka utoto) yagwiritsidwa ntchito, mtundu ndi kunyezimira kwake zidzakhala zoyera komanso zokongola kwambiri, zokhala ndi lattice yapadera, makamaka yoyenera zovala zakunja za akazi achichepere.
Tsitsi la ulusi wa mankhwala
Chodziwika bwino pa zovala ndi kupepuka kwake.
Khalani ngati malaya a acrylic, kuluka ndi ulusi wa acrylic nthawi zambiri, mawonekedwe ake a ubweya amamveka olimba, mtundu ndi kunyezimira, mtundu wa nsalu ndi wofewa pang'ono, kuchuluka kwa chinyezi ndi 0-4.5% yokha, mphamvu yosweka kwa ulusi ndi yayitali kuposa ulusi wa ubweya, sichimasungunuka, koma kusinthasintha kwake kumabwezeretsedwa, kuchuluka kwake ndi kotsika kuposa ubweya, kusunga kutentha kochepera kuposa sweta yoyera ya ubweya, mtengo wake ndi wotsika, koma wosavuta kupukuta, woyenera zovala za ana.
Posachedwapa, msika wapadziko lonse lapansi wa acrylic, ulusi wosakaniza wa polyamide, ulusi wosinthidwa wa mohair, ukhoza kufananizidwa ndi ubweya wa kalulu wachilengedwe, zovala za mohair.
Ubweya wa nyama wosakanikirana ndi ulusi wa mankhwala
Ili ndi "makhalidwe owonjezera" a ubweya wa nyama ndi ulusi wa mankhwala osiyanasiyana, ndipo mawonekedwe ake ndi aubweya, mphamvu yotalikira imawonjezeka, ndipo mtengo wa juzi umachepa. Ndi chinthu chabwino komanso chotsika mtengo.
Koma mu juzi losakanikirana, pali vuto lakuti utoto si wabwino chifukwa cha mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya ulusi womwe umagwiritsidwa ntchito popaka utoto komanso kunyamula mitundu yosiyanasiyana.
4. Zinthu zonga ubweya wopangidwa
Azungu anali oyamba kuphunzira za kuchotsa mapuloteni kuchokera ku guluu wa nyama kuti apange ulusi wa mapuloteni opangidwa.
Mu 1935, anthu ena ku Italy anayesa kuchotsa tchizi kuchokera ku mkaka kuti apange ubweya wopangira.
Kuyambira nthawi imeneyo, mayiko ena apambana popanga ulusi wopangidwa kuchokera ku mapuloteni a soya ndi mapuloteni a mtedza.
Chifukwa cha mavuto ndi mtengo wogwiritsidwa ntchito komanso wopanga ulusi woterewu, kupanga kwake kumakhala kochepa.
YUNAI ndi yofooka, yopanda kumva bwino, chifukwa cha kusalimba bwino, yooneka bwino kwambiri.
Pali mitundu iwiri ya ulusi wopangidwa ndi anthu: ulusi wobwezeretsedwa ndi ulusi wa mankhwala. Ulusi wobwezeretsedwa ndi ulusi wa viscose wopangidwa kuchokera ku ulusi wa matabwa ndi udzu pogwiritsa ntchito mankhwala.
Ulusi wa mankhwala ndi ulusi wopangidwa ndi mafuta, gasi wachilengedwe, malasha ndi zinthu zaulimi.
Malinga ndi mawonekedwe ndi kagwiritsidwe ntchito ka ulusi wopangidwa ndi anthu, pali mitundu itatu: rayon, rayon ndi ubweya.
Mitundu yofunika kwambiri ili ndi ulusi wa viscose, ulusi wa acetate, ulusi wa ammonia wamkuwa ndi zina zotero.
Ulusi wobwezeretsedwanso ukhoza kugawidwa mu ulusi wobwezeretsedwanso wa cellulose, ulusi wa cellulose ester, ulusi wa mapuloteni ndi ulusi wina wachilengedwe wa polima.
Katundu wake poyerekeza ndi ulusi wa mankhwala, ulusi wofunikira.
Nsalu yopangidwa ndi anthu kwenikweni imaloza ku ulusi wa viscose ndi nsalu ya ulusi wamba, yomwe ndi thonje lopangidwa ndi anthu lomwe anthu amalidziwa bwino, rayon ndi zina zotero.
Kuphatikiza apo, imaphatikizanso gawo la nsalu yolemera ya ulusi ndi nsalu ya ulusi wapakatikati pakati pa ulusi ndi staple.
Chifukwa chake, mawonekedwe a nsalu za ulusi wa anthu amatsimikiziridwa makamaka ndi mawonekedwe a ulusi wa viscose.
Nsalu za Rayon ndi rayon ndi zofewa kukhudza, zopumira mpweya komanso zosavuta kuvala, komanso zamitundu yowala.
Nsalu yopangidwa ndi anthu imakhala ndi hygroscopicity yabwino, ndipo hygroscopicity yake ndiyo yabwino kwambiri mu ulusi wa mankhwala. Koma mphamvu yake yonyowa ndi yochepa kwambiri, ndi pafupifupi 50% ya mphamvu youma yokha, ndipo kuchuluka kwa kufupika kwa nsalu ndi kwakukulu, chifukwa chake iyenera kuchepetsedwa pasadakhale musanadule bwino.
Nsalu ya viscose yamba imakhala ndi mawonekedwe abwino, kuuma pang'ono, kulimba komanso kukana makwinya, kotero chovala chake sichimasungidwa bwino ndipo chimakwinya mosavuta.
Nsalu ya ulusi wa viscose ili ndi kukana bwino kwa asidi ndi alkali, kukana kuwala kwa dzuwa komanso kukana mankhwala ena.
5. Zinthu zoyera za ulusi wa mankhwala
Kawirikawiri, ulusi wopangidwa umagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chinthu chachikulu, ulusi wopangidwa kapena silika wamitundu yosiyanasiyana ngati ulusi wothandizira, ndipo ulusi wina watsopano wopangidwa umagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chinthu chachikulu, wokhala ndi kapangidwe koyenera ka nsalu. Nsalu yamtunduwu ili ndi mitundu iwiri ya kalembedwe kachilengedwe kofanana ndi nsungwi.
Ili ndi mawonekedwe achilengedwe a ulusi wachilengedwe.
Nsaluyo ndi yowala bwino, yowala bwino, yosalala komanso yotanuka, yoyenera anthu onse.
Ubweya wa ulusi wa mankhwala, womwe umadziwika bwino ndi zovala zake ndi zopepuka.
Khalani ngati malaya a acrylic, kuluka ndi ulusi wa acrylic nthawi zambiri, mawonekedwe ake a ubweya amamveka olimba, mtundu ndi kunyezimira, mtundu wa nsalu ndi wofewa pang'ono, kuchuluka kwa chinyezi ndi 0-4.5% yokha, mphamvu yosweka kwa ulusi ndi yayitali kuposa ulusi wa ubweya, sichimasungunuka, koma kusinthasintha kwake kumabwezeretsedwa, kuchuluka kwake ndi kotsika kuposa ubweya, kusunga kutentha kochepera kuposa sweta yoyera ya ubweya, mtengo wake ndi wotsika, koma wosavuta kupukuta, woyenera zovala za ana.
Posachedwapa, msika wapadziko lonse lapansi wa acrylic, poly-amide fiber blended ulusi, modified acrylic imitation mohair ulusi, womwe umakhala ngati shati, ukhoza kufananizidwa ndi ubweya wachilengedwe wa kalulu, zovala za mohair.
Ubweya wosakaniza ubweya wa nyama ndi ulusi wa mankhwala, wokhala ndi "makhalidwe owonjezera" osiyanasiyana a ubweya wa nyama ndi ulusi wa mankhwala, mawonekedwe ake ali ndi mawonekedwe a ubweya, mphamvu yotalikira imawonjezeka, imachepetsa mtengo wa juzi, ndi yotsika mtengo komanso yabwino.
Koma mu juzi losakanikirana, pali vuto lakuti mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya ulusi imakhala ndi utoto wosiyana komanso mphamvu yokopa mitundu, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti utotowo usakhale wabwino kwambiri.
Kusiyanitsa pakati pa nsalu yofanana ndi ulusi wa mankhwala ndi nsalu yoyera ya ubweya:
Nsalu yofanana ndi ubweya nthawi zambiri imapangidwa ndi ulusi wa mankhwala, ndipo ulusi wa viscose ndi wochuluka, monga polyester/viscose ubweya wautali wapakatikati, polyester yoyera ndi zinthu zina zofanana ndi ubweya.
Choyamba, kuwala kwake ndi kosiyana.
Nsalu ya ubweya woyera nthawi zambiri imakhala yofewa komanso yachilengedwe, yokhala ndi mtundu wosakongola kwenikweni. Nsalu ya ubweya woyerekeza wa ulusi wa mankhwala imakhala ndi mtundu wambiri komanso yowala. Mukayang'ana mosamala pansi pa dzuwa, nthawi zambiri mumawona kuwala kowala komanso kowala.
Mfundo iyi yofanana ndi ubweya wozizira kuti ufanane ndi nsalu ya ubweya ingakhalenso yosayerekezeka.
Chachiwiri, kumveka ndi kusinthasintha kwa thupi zimasiyana.
Nsalu za ubweya woyera zimamveka zofewa, zofewa pang'ono, fupa la thupi, zopindika pang'ono koma osati zolimba, zofewa koma osati zowongoka;
Ngakhale polyester, mawonekedwe ake ndi ofanana ndi ubweya, koma ofewa komanso osalala, palibe fupa la thupi, makwinya ambiri, kubwereranso pang'onopang'ono.
Chachitatu, wotchani silika mutatha kujambula.
Ulusi woyera wa nsalu ya ubweya ukhoza kuwoneka pambuyo pa kusalingana kwa ulusi wa ubweya, kutalika kosiyana, kupindika kwachilengedwe, ndi viscose zomwe zimatsanzira ulusi wa nsalu ya ubweya kutalika, makulidwe ofanana.
Pambuyo poyatsa moto, motowo ukayamba kuyaka pang'onopang'ono, kusiya motowo ukupitirira kuyaka, tsitsi limaphatikizidwa ndi fungo, phulusa, chigawo chakuda chophwanyika, kupotoka kukhala ufa wa nsalu za ubweya woyera, ndipo pafupi ndi motowo ukuyaka, ukuyaka mofulumira, lawi lachikasu, kuwotcha kolimba, phulusa losavuta kuuluka imvi yopepuka, loyera ndikusiya chotupa cha polyester/viscose chovuta kuphwanya.
Zimasiyanso chotupa chakuda chikayaka.
Kuyambira ziwiri mpaka ziwiri kapena kuposerapo mwa zosakaniza kapena nsalu yolumikizidwa yosakanikirana: ubweya/viscose, ubweya/poliyesitala, ubweya/silika, ubweya/viscose/spandex, ndi zina zotero, sikuti imangofunika kumvetsetsa bwino mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya mawonekedwe a ulusi ndi makhalidwe ake, komanso njira yogwiritsira ntchito kuzindikira ulusi wambiri, kuyambira pakuyang'ana kachiwiri, kuyatsa moto mpaka kuyesa pambuyo pa mayeso, ikhoza kufika pamapeto pake.
6. Ubweya wopangidwa ndi mercerized
Ubweya wopangidwa ndi mercerizing ndi ubweya wamba pambuyo pochiza ndi mankhwala, kuwononga ulusi wa ubweya, komanso kudzera mu mankhwala oyesera, zimapangitsa ubweya kukhala wosalala, wonyezimira, wosafooka ukatsukidwa, woyenera madiresi aukwati.
Ubweya wa Mercerizing ndi njira yogwiritsira ntchito zinthu za ubweya popaka utoto ndi kumaliza ubweya.
Ubweya uyenera kupakidwa chlorine ndi Basolan DC kapena kupatsidwa mankhwala a protease kuti uwononge mamba a pamwamba pa ubweya ndikuchepetsa kusiyana pakati pa friction coefficient panthawi yoyenda kutsogolo ndi kumbuyo kwa ubweya. Pambuyo pa chithandizo, kuwala kwa ubweya kumawonjezeka, komwe kumadziwika kuti ubweya wa mercerized.
Ubweya wa mercerized ukhoza kupangidwa ndi ubweya weniweni kapena wosakanikirana.
Zinthu zazikulu ndi zoletsa kufooka, zotsukidwa ndi makina, komanso zoletsa kupopera.
Ukadaulo wa ubweya wa Mercerized unayamba pakati pa zaka za m'ma 1990, ndi ukadaulo watsopano wopaka utoto ndi kumaliza womwe unapangidwa pogwiritsa ntchito ukadaulo wachikhalidwe woletsa chlorination ndi ukadaulo woletsa kuchepa kwa ubweya.
Nsalu ya ubweya wokonzedwayo imakhala ndi mawonekedwe a cashmere komanso kuwala kwa silika.
Chifukwa cha makhalidwe amenewa, zinthu zopangidwa ndi ubweya wa mercerizing zinatchuka mofulumira.
Mpaka pano, ubweya wa mercerized wakhala wotchuka kwambiri, gawo la msika lapitirira kuchuluka kwa ubweya wamba.
Pali malingaliro osiyanasiyana okhudza ubweya wa mercerized ku China ndi mayiko ena padziko lonse lapansi. Ku China, ubweya wochotsedwa phosphorous umatchedwa ubweya wa mercerized, pomwe ubweya wa nkhosa wapadziko lonse umaphikidwa ndi nthunzi mu nthunzi yotentha, ndikutambasulidwa ndi 30% ~ 50%. Kenako, utaziziritsidwa ndi madzi ozizira ndikuwoneka ngati ubweya, ubweya wa nkhosa wowonda komanso wautali umatchedwa ubweya wa mercerized.
7. Ubweya
Ubweya nthawi zambiri umatchedwa nsalu ya ulusi wa ubweya.
Ulusi wa ubweya umapangidwa ndi mamolekyu a mapuloteni ogwirizana, mawonekedwe ake ndi mawonekedwe apadera a kapangidwe ka nyanga zolimba, kophimbidwa mwamphamvu, kapangidwe ka flake ndi kakang'ono kwambiri, ubwino wake ndikuletsa dothi kulowa mu ulusi, kotero, zovala za ubweya sizimadetsedwa mosavuta.
Otsuka zovala nthawi zambiri amakumana ndi nsalu zosiyanasiyana akamachapa zovala, ndipo zovala za ubweya nazonso ndizofala.
Chifukwa chomwe ubweya umapangira kuwala kowala ndi:
(1) Gawo la nyanga pamwamba pa ulusi wa ubweya lawonongeka pang'ono;
(2) Fumbi ndi dothi zimakanda pang'ono ndikumamatira ku mpata, kotero kuti pamwamba pa nsaluyo pamakhala posalala, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti kuwala kusamawonekere bwino, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti kuwala kuwonekere bwino.
Njira zochotsera kuwala:
(1) Mkate ukhoza kupotozedwa kukhala ufa ndikuupaka mu kuwala, ndi chitsulo mpaka ku chitsulo;
(2) Kusakaniza: Zilowerereni madzi a acetic acid ndi kuchuluka kwa 3-5% ndi kutentha kwa 50℃ kwa mphindi 3-5, kenako muzimutsuka ndi madzi oyera.
Viniga woyera angagwiritsidwenso ntchito.
(3) Tsukani ndi burashi mukamatsuka.
Ulusi ndi ulusi wachilengedwe, chifukwa cha mbewu za zomera, tsinde ndi masamba omwe ali ndi ulusi wambiri wa mankhwala alibe khalidwe labwino, jini lofanana ndi hydrophilic mu ulusi wa thonje, hygroscopicity yabwino, yovala thukuta, mpweya wokwanira, yomasuka, komanso yozizira komanso yozizira, yofewa, yosamamatira ku makhalidwe omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri mumakampani opanga zovala, yolandiridwa ndi ogula.
Ubwino: yofewa komanso yotanuka m'manja, yofewa komanso yowala mwachilengedwe, yomasuka komanso yokongola kuvala, imamva bwino kwambiri, imayamwa chinyezi bwino, siitentha mosavuta, imasunga kutentha bwino, imakana kupindika, makamaka ikakonzedwa ndikusiyidwa, imakonza bwino mawonekedwe a pleat komanso imateteza mawonekedwe a zovala;
Dziwani: Kutentha kwa zovala sikuyenera kukhala kokwera kwambiri, musamakanda kapena kupotokola kuti musatenthedwe ndi dzuwa.
Malo okanikiza: Kunyowetsa kusita, kusita nsaluyo n’kuiuma kuchokera mbali inayo.
Zoyipa: alkali - yolimba, yofooka, yosavuta kukwinya.
8. Nsalu ya ubweya ndi poliyesitala
Nsalu ya ubweya ndi polyester (ubweya ndi polyester): Nsalu yopangidwa ndi ulusi wosakaniza ubweya ndi polyester, mtundu wofala kwambiri wa nsalu yosakaniza ubweya.
Nsalu yopangidwa ndi ubweya ndi ulusi wosakaniza wa polyester.
Chiŵerengero chofala cha kusakaniza ubweya ndi poliyesitala ndi 45∶55, chomwe sichingosunga ubwino wa ubweya wokha, komanso chimapereka mwayi wonse kwa polyester.
Nsalu pafupifupi zonse zokhuthala ndi zowola zimakhala ndi mtundu wofanana wa ubweya ndi polyester.
Pakati pawo, nsalu yopyapyala yokhala ndi maluwa a ubweya ndi polyester yopyapyala yotchedwanso cool, yomwe imadziwikanso kuti ubweya wozizira kwambiri, ndi yomwe imawonetsa kwambiri momwe ubweya ndi polyester zimagwirizanirana ndi nsalu zina.
Pali double-ply warp ndi weft, double-ply warp, single-ply weft ndi single-ply warp ndi weft.
Kawirikawiri ndi ulusi wa amuna wa 50 ~ 70, nsalu zopyapyala ndi ulusi wa amuna wa 100 ~ 120.
Kulemera kwa nsalu ndi pafupifupi 170 ~ 190 g/m2.
Poyerekeza ndi ubweya wa tweed, ubweya wa tweed woonda wa tweed ndi wopepuka komanso wopepuka, wokhala ndi makwinya abwino, wolimba komanso wosawonongeka, wosavuta kutsuka, wouma mwachangu, wolimba, wokhazikika kukula, koma osati wosalala ngati ubweya.
Ngati mukugwiritsa ntchito polyester yopepuka ngati zinthu zopangira, pamwamba pa silika padzakhala kunyezimira.
Ngati ubweya wapadera wa nyama monga ubweya wa cashmere kapena ngamila ugwiritsidwa ntchito popanga zinthu zopangira kusakaniza, udzamveka woterera komanso womata.
Chiŵerengero chofala cha kusakaniza ubweya ndi poliyesitala ndi 45:55, zomwe sizimangosunga ubwino wa ubweya, komanso zimapangitsa kuti polyester igwirizane ndi ubwino wake.
Ubwino: ubweya wosakaniza ndi polyester, wopepuka komanso wopepuka, komanso umathandiza kuti makwinya ayambe kugwira ntchito bwino.
Yolimba, yosavuta kutsuka komanso kuuma, yokhazikika kukula, yolimba mu tuck
Malo otsukira: choyamba muviike m'madzi ozizira kwa mphindi 15, kenako muzimutsuka ndi sopo wopangira, kutentha kwa madzi sikuyenera kupitirira madigiri 45, kolala, cuff, malo odetsedwa, mutha kugwiritsa ntchito burashi yofewa ya ubweya kuti mutsuke pang'onopang'ono, mutatsuka bwino, mutha kupotoza pang'onopang'ono, kugula mpweya wozizira, osati wotsekedwa, sayenera kuumitsa, kuti musapse chifukwa chakucha kungayambitse makwinya.
Nsalu ya 9.T/R
Ndi chimodzi mwa zinthu zomwe zimapangidwa ndi nsalu ya T/R kupanga jekete loyimirira, jekete la lapel ndi zovala wamba zokhala ndi nsalu zambiri za T/R zooneka ngati plaid kapena stripe, flash kapena monochrome.
Nsalu ya T/R ndi nsalu yosakanikirana ya polyester viscose. Polyester viscose blended ndi mtundu wa kusakaniza kowonjezera. Polyester viscose si thonje, ubweya, ndi wautali wapakatikati. Nsalu ya ubweya yomwe imadziwika kuti "fast bus". Pamene polyester ili osachepera 50%, mtundu uwu wa nsalu yosakanikirana ukhoza kusunga polyester yolimba, yolimba makwinya, yokhazikika kukula, yotha kutsukidwa komanso yolimba. Kusakaniza kwa ulusi wa viscose kumathandizira kuti mpweya ulowerere bwino pa nsaluyo komanso kukana dzenje losungunuka. Zinthu zotsutsana ndi kusungunuka kwa nsaluyo zinachepa.
Gwiritsani ntchito 65/35 kapena 67/33 pa chiŵerengero cha polyester/viscid-blend. Polyester/viscose blend ndi yofanana ndi polyester/viscose. Makhalidwe a nsalu yosakanikirana iyi ndi yosalala komanso yoyera, mitundu yowala, mawonekedwe olimba a ubweya, kusinthasintha kwa manja, kuyamwa bwino chinyezi; Koma kukhalitsa kwake ndi kochepa.
Ubwino: wolimba, wosakwinya makwinya, kukula kwake kokhazikika, wochapira komanso wovalidwa.
Zingathandize kuti nsalu isamayende bwino, kuchepetsa kupopera mpweya komanso zinthu zotsutsana ndi static.
Malo ochapira: Makina ochapira angagwiritsidwe ntchito, musawatsuke ndi burashi, kuti asatayike kapena kuumitsa mbali inayo.
10. NC yochuluka kwambiri
Nsalu ya NC yochuluka kwambiri ndi mtundu wa nsalu yosakanikirana kapena yolukidwa ndi poly-amide (nayiloni) ndi ulusi wa thonje.
Chogulitsachi chimaphatikiza ubwino wa nayiloni ndi ulusi wa thonje.
Kutha kwa nayiloni kutha kugwiritsidwa ntchito ndi ulusi wachilengedwe ndi ulusi wa mankhwala. Kutha kwa nayiloni kunyowa ndi bwino kuposa kwa polyester, ndipo mphamvu zake zofewa komanso zopaka utoto ndi zabwino kuposa za polyester. Chifukwa chake, kuyamwa ndi kufewa kwa ulusi wa thonje sikudzachepa mukasakaniza kapena kuluka ndi ulusi wa thonje.
Nayiloni imakhala ndi kusinthasintha kwabwino kwambiri. Pambuyo posakaniza kapena kuluka ndi ulusi wa thonje, kusinthasintha kwa nsalu kumawonjezeka.
Vuto la nsalu ya NC ndilakuti: chifukwa cha nayiloni yomwe imagwira ntchito yoluka kapena kusakaniza, kukana kutentha ndi kukana kuwala kwa nsaluyo ndi koipa, samalani kutsuka ndi kusita pamene mukugwiritsa ntchito kuti mukwaniritse zofunikira, kuti mupewe kuwonongeka.
Kalembedwe kake kodziwika bwino: kosavuta kuvala, kofewa komanso komasuka, kosavuta kuyeretsa.
Osapsa padzuwa, osapotoza.
Malo otsukira: Musaume bwino, koma muumitse mumdima.
Njira yosamalira: musavale nyengo, bwererani ku thumba la pulasitiki losanja.
Nthawi yotumizira: Disembala-17-2024