Pasanathe sabata imodzi! Pa Okutobala 19, tidzakambirana nkhani zofunika kwambiri za tsikuli ndi Sourcing Journal ndi atsogoleri amakampani ku SOURCING SUMMIT NY. Bizinesi yanu siyingaphonye izi!
"[Denim] ikulimbitsa malo ake pamsika," anatero Manon Mangin, mkulu wa zinthu zamafashoni ku Denim Première Vision.
Ngakhale kuti makampani opanga ma denim apezanso mawonekedwe ake abwino, akusamalanso kuti asaike mazira awo onse m'basiketi limodzi monga momwe adachitira zaka khumi zapitazo, pomwe mafakitale ambiri amadalira kugulitsa ma jeans opyapyala kwambiri kuti apeze zofunika pa moyo.
Pa Denim Premiere Vision ku Milan Lachitatu—chochitika choyamba cha thupi m'zaka pafupifupi ziwiri—Mangin adafotokoza mitu itatu yofunika kwambiri yomwe yakhudza kwambiri makampani opanga nsalu ndi zovala za denim.
Mangin adati masika ndi chilimwe cha 2023 zidawonetsa "kusintha" kwa makampani opanga denim kuti apange malingaliro atsopano osakanikirana ndi mitundu yosayembekezereka. Kuphatikiza kodabwitsa kwa nsalu ndi "khalidwe losazolowereka" kumathandiza nsaluyo kupitirira mawonekedwe ake oyambirira. Anawonjezera kuti pamene mafakitale opanga nsalu akuwonjezera nsalu kudzera mu kuchulukana, kufewa komanso kusinthasintha, cholinga chachikulu nyengo ino ndi kumveka bwino.
Mu Urban Denim, gulu ili limasintha mawonekedwe a zovala zogwirira ntchito kukhala zovala zokhazikika za tsiku ndi tsiku.
Apa, kusakaniza kwa hemp kumayamba, chifukwa cha mphamvu ya ulusi. Mangin adati nsalu yakale ya denim yopangidwa ndi thonje lachilengedwe komanso kapangidwe kolimba ka 3 × 1 ikukwaniritsa zofuna za ogula kuti azigwira ntchito bwino. Kuluka kokongola komanso jacquard yokhala ndi ulusi wokhuthala kumawonjezera kukongola kwa nkhope. Iye adati majekete okhala ndi matumba ambiri osokera ndi zinthu zofunika kwambiri nyengo ino, koma si olimba ngati pansi. Kumaliza kosalowa madzi kumawonjezera mawonekedwe abwino mumzinda.
Ma Denim a mumzinda amaperekanso njira yapamwamba kwambiri yochotsera ma denim. Ma jinzi okhala ndi zokongoletsa zanzeru amagogomezera gawo lopangira mapangidwe a zovala. Zovala zokhazikika—kaya zopangidwa ndi nsalu zotayidwa kapena nsalu yatsopano yopangidwa ndi ulusi wobwezerezedwanso—ndi zoyera ndipo zimatha kupanga mitundu yogwirizana.
Kawirikawiri, kukhazikika ndiye maziko a mitu yamakono. Denim imapangidwa ndi thonje lobwezerezedwanso, nsalu, hemp, tencel ndi thonje lachilengedwe, ndipo kuphatikiza ndi ukadaulo wosunga mphamvu komanso wosunga madzi, kwakhala chinthu chatsopano. Komabe, nsalu zambiri zimapangidwa ndi mtundu umodzi wokha wa ulusi, zomwe zikusonyeza momwe mafakitale angachepetsere njira yobwezeretsanso zinthu kumapeto kwa nthawi yovala.
Mutu wachiwiri wa Denim Première Vision, Denim Offshoots, umachokera ku kufuna kwamphamvu kwa ogula kuti azisangalala. Mangin adati mutuwo ndi mafashoni "kupumula, ufulu ndi kumasuka" ndipo amalemekeza kwambiri zovala zamasewera.
Kufuna chitonthozo ndi ubwino kumeneku kukupangitsa mafakitale kukulitsa mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya denim yolukidwa. Zinthu za denim zolukidwa "zosaletsa" za masika ndi chilimwe cha 23 zikuphatikizapo zovala zamasewera, mathalauza othamanga ndi akabudula, ndi majekete a suti owoneka bwino.
Kulumikizananso ndi chilengedwe kwakhala chizolowezi chodziwika bwino cha anthu ambiri, ndipo izi zikufalikira m'njira zosiyanasiyana. Nsalu yokhala ndi zosindikizidwa za m'madzi ndi pamwamba pa mafunde imabweretsa bata ku denim. Zotsatira za mchere ndi utoto wachilengedwe zimathandiza kuti kusonkhanitsa kukhale pansi. Pakapita nthawi, kusindikiza kwapadera kwa laser kwa maluwa kumawoneka kuti kwatha. Mangin adati mapangidwe opangidwa ndi zinthu zakale ndi ofunikira kwambiri pa "ma bras akumidzi" kapena ma corsets okhala ndi denim.
Denim yopangidwa ndi spa imapangitsa kuti majini azimveka bwino. Iye anati kusakaniza kwa viscose kumapangitsa nsaluyo kukhala ngati khungu la pichesi, ndipo madiresi opumira mpweya ndi majekete opangidwa ndi lyocell ndi modal blends akukhala zinthu zazikulu za nyengo ino.
Nkhani yachitatu ya mafashoni, Enhanced Denim, ikufotokoza mitundu yonse ya maloto kuyambira kukongola kwambiri mpaka "zapamwamba kwambiri".
Chovala cha jacquard chokhala ndi mapangidwe achilengedwe komanso osawoneka bwino ndi chinthu chodziwika bwino. Iye anati mtundu wake, mawonekedwe ake obisika komanso ulusi womasuka zimapangitsa kuti nsalu ya thonje 100% pamwamba pake ikhale yokulirapo. Organza yamtundu womwewo yomwe ili m'chiuno ndi m'thumba lakumbuyo imawonjezera kunyezimira pang'ono ku denim. Mitundu ina, monga ma corsets ndi malaya okhala ndi zoyikapo za organza m'manja, imasonyeza kukhudza kwa khungu. "Ili ndi mzimu wosintha zinthu mwaukadaulo," anawonjezera Mangin.
Vuto la zaka chikwi lomwe lafala kwambiri limakhudza kukongola kwa Gen Z ndi ogula achinyamata. Zinthu zachikazi kwambiri—kuyambira ma sequins, makhiristo ooneka ngati mtima ndi nsalu zowala mpaka pinki wolimba komanso zolemba za nyama—ndizoyenera anthu atsopano. Mangin adati chinsinsi chake ndikupeza zinthu ndi zokongoletsera zomwe zitha kuchotsedwa mosavuta kuti zibwezeretsedwenso.
Nthawi yotumizira: Okutobala-15-2021