Ubwa mbere, Reka nkwibarize ikibazo: ese ikote rigizwe n'ibice bibiri: umwenda n'ibindi bikoresho?
Oya, igisubizo si cyo. Ikoti rigizwe n'ibice bitatu: umwenda, ibikoresho n'imyenda yo kwambara.
Imyenda n'ibikoresho ni ingenzi cyane, ariko ubwiza bw'ikoti buterwa n'umugozi, kuko uhuza ibikoresho bibiri bitandukanye cyane, imyenda n'ibikoresho.
Uburyo buhendutse kandi bukwiriye gukoreshwa mu myenda ni ugukoresha imyenda ifatana, ndetse n’iyo ikozwe n’intoki, ariko gukoresha imyenda ifatana ishobora kuba iri munsi ya yuan 2000. Ibi bikurikira, imyenda ifatana ifatana ikoresheje urwego ruto mu gihe runaka, uzasanga imyenda n’ibindi bikoresho bitazongera kumera neza, bikururana mu cyerekezo gitandukanye, bisa nkaho ari ugutandukanya umukino.
Urugero, umwenda mwiza wo kwambara imyenda ya YUNAI ugomba gukorwa mu bwoya bw'intama, imyenda y'ipamba n'umuheha w'ifarashi. Muri make, ibikoresho bisanzwe birakenewe. Intego ni ugufasha umwenda w'ipamba n'ibikoresho kuzenguruka ku rugero ruto mu gihe bibafasha kongera kuwuhindura.
Igice cya kabiri: nubwo ubwiza bw'ibikoresho bikoreshwa buterwa n'ibintu byinshi, igiciro cy'imyenda ubu gishingiye ahanini ku hantu yaturutse. Igiciro cy'imyenda yo mu gihugu gitandukanye cyane n'icy'imyenda itumizwa mu mahanga, ahanini ikomoka mu Butaliyani no mu Bwongereza.
Imyenda ikomeye ku isi ikora imyenda irimo: Ermenegildo Zegna, LORO PIANA, VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO, REDA, CERRUTI 1881, YUNAI, ikaba ari ikigo gikomeye mu bwoya bw'Abataliyani; Ni nacyo gipimo cy'ubwiza bw'ubwoya. CHARLES CLAYTON, bane bakurikira nibo bakora imyenda y'ubwoya ya kera kandi ifite agaciro mu Bwongereza. Ibirango bikomeye by'imyenda y'amashati ni Ubwongereza THOMAS MASON, Ubusuwisi Alumo, Ubutaliyani MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO n'ibindi. Iduka ryihariye rifite ubwoko bwinshi bw'amakoti n'imyenda y'amashati muri rusange ni iduka ryihariye ry'umwuga.
Ubusanzwe, izi nganda zifite ibisabwa bikomeye ku bipimo ngenderwaho by’umwuga by’amaduka yihariye. Nizigera ku bipimo bihuye ni bwo zizatanga uburenganzira bwo gukoresha imyenda yazo bwite n’ibirango byazo. Byongeye kandi, uko waba ukoresha imyenda yo mu rugo cyangwa ituruka mu mahanga, ibikoresho bikoreshwa muri zo ahanini ni ubwoya bw’intama, birumvikana ko hazabaho ibindi bikoresho, nka cashmere, ariko imyenda myiza cyane ikorwa mu myenda karemano aho kuba ibikoresho by’ubukorikori, ariko ntushobora gusaba cyane imyenda yo mu rugo.
1. Igitambaro cyuzuye ubwoya cyangiritse
Igitambaro cy'ubwoya bivuga umwenda ukozwe mu bwoya cyangwa mu bwoya na polyester, viscose, acrylic, nibindi.
Worsted wool ni umwenda wo mu rwego rwo hejuru ukozwe mu bwoya bw'intama busukuye kandi busukuye, ushobora kuvangwa n'ingano runaka y'ubwoya cyangwa ubundi budodo karemano, ugatunganywa hakoreshejwe ibikoresho byo gusokoza, gusokoza, gushushanya, kudoda, kuboha, gusiga irangi no kurangiza inshuro nyinshi.
Ifite ubwoya bw’inyamaswa bufite imiterere yihariye, yoroshye, igitsina cyihariye cyo hasi n’igitsina kidapfa, iyo ifata ubushuhe cyangwa ibyuya inyuma kugira ngo ikomeze kugira igitsina gishyushye.
Imyenda ikozwe mu mwenda mwiza w’ubwoya irakomeye kandi ntizahinduka isura igihe kirekire. Iraryoshye cyane bitewe no kutagira aurora. Iraryoshye kandi iraryoshye mu miterere, iraryoshye mu miterere, iraryoshye kandi iraryoshye, yuzuye, iraryoshye mu miterere, yoroshye kandi isanzwe mu mucyo n'ibindi.
Icyo bita worsted n'ubwoya, cyagerageje gusobanura, uhereye ku nguni ya bibiri, kimwe kiri hejuru y'umugozi, ikindi ni ukuboha, kuzunguruka kwa fibre ni 32 na hejuru ya 40, kubara fibre y'ingingo zoroshye, nke, ubucucike busanzwe, ubudahangarwa bwiza bwo kwangirika, ihumure ryiza, ikindi ni ubucucike, umwenda wosted mu imashini nziza y'imyenda, gukumira kuvunika kwa fibre, urwego rw'ubucucike ni rwinshi, umwenda w'ubwoya, ingingo, byoroshye kuvunika, itandukaniro ry'ubudahangarwa karemano bwo kwangirika, ubucucike si bwiza.
Imyenda yometseho ubwoya bw'umwimerere akenshi iba nto, ifite ubuso buroroshye n'imirongo isobanutse neza.
Umubiri uba mwiza, woroshye kandi urambaraye.
Fata ibikoresho nyuma yo kubikuramo, muri rusange ntuzigame, nubwo byaba bifite akantu gato gashobora kuzimira mu gihe gito cyane.
Kumenya umwenda w'ubwoya busanzwe:
Igitambaro cy'ubwoya busanzwe gifite ibara ryoroheje kandi gishyushye neza ni cyo gihitamo cya mbere mu gukora amakoti n'amakoti yo hejuru yo mu rwego rwo hejuru.
Ariko ubu imyenda myinshi imeze nk'ubwoya bw'intama, nkuko ikoranabuhanga ry'imyenda rikomeza kunoza, yageze ku rwego rw'abakiriya benshi bigoye kumenya, ariko ibara, ubushyuhe, imiterere n'ibindi ni bike cyane ugereranyije n'imyenda y'ubwoya bw'intama.
Ibi bikurikira bitanga uburyo butandukanye bwo kumenya imyenda y’ubwoya bw’umwimerere, nk'uko wabishingiraho mu guhitamo imyenda n’ifu.
Ubwa mbere, gukoraho.
Imyenda y'ubwoya bw'umwimerere ikunze kuba imeze nk'imyenda y'ubwoya burebure, imeze nk'iy'ubwoya bworoshye, hamwe n'uburyo bworoshye bwo gukurura umusatsi. Kandi ivanze cyangwa ikoze nk'imitako, imwe ntiyoroshye cyane, indi yoroshye cyane kandi irekuye, kandi ifatana.
Icya kabiri, reba ibara.
Ibara ry'imyenda y'ubwoya bw'umwimerere ni iryoroshye kandi risanzwe, rirabagirana kandi ntirishira. Mu buryo bunyuranye, ubuso bw'imyenda y'ubudodo cyangwa iy'ubudodo bw'ibinyabutabire buvanze cyangwa bugaragara neza, cyangwa burabagirana cyane, cyangwa bufite ishusho y'urumuri.
Icya gatatu, reba uburyo bworoshye bwo guhindagurika.
Fata umwenda neza n'intoki, hanyuma uwurekure ako kanya kugira ngo urebe uburyo umwenda urushaho kugorama. Igipimo cyo kugaruka k'umutambaro w'ubwoya ni kinini, ushobora gusubirana vuba uko wari umeze mbere, kandi ibicuruzwa bya fibre cyangwa imiti bivanze, kurwanya iminkanyari ni bike, ibimenyetso byinshi by'iminkanyari bigaragara cyane, cyangwa gusubirana buhoro buhoro.
Icya kane. Kumenya niba hari umuriro utwika.
Fata agatsiko k'ubudodo, ukoreshe umuriro, ubwoya bw'umwimerere buhumura nk'umusatsi uhiye, ubudodo bwa shimi buhumura nk'ipulasitiki ihiye. Uko uduce dukomeye nyuma yo gushya, niko ibice byinshi bya shimi bibaho.
1. Kumenya umuzi umwe.
Ukoresheje mikorosikopi, inyamaswa zose zifite ingano, niba umusatsi muremure ufata igihe kirekire, umusatsi nk'uko byavuzwe haruguru ushyirwamo inshuro nke, uzazamuka cyangwa umanuka (kugira ngo umenye neza ubu buhanga, ushobora gufata umusatsi wo mu igerageza rya mbere), niba ari umwenda usanzwe, ukuraho umugozi w'umuzi, ukate cm 2 z'ibice bibiri mu mugozi umwe munsi y'intoki, ushyiremo bine cyangwa bitanu, ntabwo byagenda.
2. Imyenda ivanze n'ubwoya n'imyenda ya polyester
Igitambaro givanze n'ubwoya bw'intama, ari byo cashmere, polyester, spandex, ubwoya bw'urukwavu n'indi myenda n'ubwoya bw'intama. Igitambaro givanze n'ubwoya bw'intama na polyester, munsi y'izuba, ubuso bufite aho bugaragara, igitambaro kirakomeye kandi gikomeye, gifata neza, gifata umwenda urekuye, nta minkanyari igaragara.
Icyerekezo cy'igorofa, igorofa, ubucucike bw'igorofa
— Icyerekezo cy'uburebure bw'igitambaro;
Indodo zo ku ruhande zitwa indodo zo ku ruhande;
Umubare w'imigozi itondetse muri santimetero 1 ni ubucucike bw'imigozi;
Icyerekezo cy'ubucucike, kuzuza no gucumba kw'ibirungo
— Icyerekezo cy'ubugari bw'igitambaro;
Ubudodo bwitwa umugozi, kandi umubare w'imigozi iri muri santimetero imwe ni ubucucike bw'umugozi.
Ubucucike
— Ikoreshwa mu kwerekana umubare w'ubudodo kuri buri gice cy'uburebure bw'imyenda yo kohereza, muri rusange umubare w'ubudodo buri hagati ya santimetero 1 na santimetero 10. Amabwiriza y'igihugu cy'Ubushinwa avuga ko umubare w'ubudodo buri hagati ya santimetero 10 ukoreshwa mu kugaragaza ubucucike, ariko ibigo by'imyenda biracyakoresha umubare w'ubudodo buri hagati ya santimetero 1 mu kugaragaza ubucucike.
Urugero, "45×45/108×58" ikunze kugaragara yerekeza ku budodo 45 bwo kugonga n'ubudodo bwo kugonga bufite ubucucike bwa 108 na 58.
Ubugari
— Ubugari bw'imyenda bukunze kugaragara muri santimetero cyangwa santimetero. Isanzwe ni santimetero 36, santimetero 44, santimetero 56-60, nibindi, byitwa bito, biciriritse n'ubugari, uko bikurikirana. Imyenda ireshya na santimetero 60 ni ubugari burenze, ubusanzwe yitwa igitambaro cy'ubugari bunini.
Ubugari muri rusange bugaragara inyuma y'ubucucike. Urugero, niba umwenda uvugwa muri: 3 wongeweho n'ubugari, uzagaragazwa nka “45×45/108×58/60”, ni ukuvuga ubugari bwa santimetero 60.
Uburemere
— Uburemere bwa garama y'umwenda muri rusange ni garama y'uburemere bw'umwenda muri metero kare. Uburemere bwa garama ni ikimenyetso cy'ingenzi cya tekiniki cy'imyenda iboshye, kandi uburemere bwa garama bukunze gufatwa nk'ikimenyetso cy'ingenzi cya tekiniki cy'imyenda y'ubwoya.
Uburemere bwa garama ya denim muri rusange bugaragazwa nka "OZ", ni ukuvuga umubare wa garama z'uburemere bw'imyenda kuri yadi kare, nka garama 7, garama 12 za denim, nibindi.
Irangi ry'ubudodo
Mu Buyapani, byitwa "igitambaro gishushanyije", bivuga inzira yo gusiga irangi ku budodo cyangwa ku mwenda hanyuma ukaboha imyenda ukoresheje ubudodo bw'amabara. Ubwo bwoko bw'igitambaro bwitwa "igitambaro gishushanyije ku budodo". Inganda zikora imyenda ishushanyije ku budodo muri rusange zitwa inganda zisiga irangi no kuboha, nka denim, kandi imyenda myinshi y'ishati irangi ku budodo.
3. Imyenda ivanze n'ubwoya n'ibitambaro bya viscose
Umucyo uragabanuka cyane.
Uburangare bubi buba buke, mu gihe ubwoya buba budafite icyo buvuze.
Ubwo bwoko bw'imyenda ntibugoramye kandi ntibukonje cyane ugereranije n'imyenda y'ubwoya n'ubwoya bwa polyester, ivanze neza n'ubwoya. Iyo ingano ya viscose iri hejuru, iyo myenda irapfunyika byoroshye kuyizinga.
Umutambaro wa viscose gakondo umeze nk'umunyururu w'ibinyabutabire, umunyururu w'ubwoya bw'ubukorano nk'ibikoresho fatizo by'umutambaro umeze nk'ubwoya bw'intama, umucyo muke, ukumva woroshye, kutagira ibyiyumvo bishya. Kubera ko uburibwe buba bubi, bugaragara nk'ubusa, kandi ntibworoshye gushonga. Ni uburyo bwiza bwo kumenya umwenda wa viscose, imbaraga z'ubudodo buva mu mwenda zigabanuka iyo butose kurusha iyo bwumye. Byongeye kandi, uyu mwenda umeze nk'ubwoya urakomera kandi ukagira ubunini nyuma yo kubira. Uko siyansi n'ikoranabuhanga byateye imbere, ibikoresho by'ubwoya byigana mu ibara, ibyiyumvo, no kuramba nabyo byarakomeje.
Ubwoko bw'ingenzi:
Ubwoya bw'urukwavu
Muri rusange, igice runaka cy'ubwoya bw'urukwavu n'ubwoya bw'urukwavu biravangwa kandi bigakorwa. Ibiranga isutiye y'urukwavu biri mu migozi yayo myiza, uburyo bworoshye kandi busa n'ubudodo, uburyo bworoshye bwo kuruhuka ku buso, no kuba ikoze neza. Biraryoshye kandi bisanzwe kwambarwa, kandi uburyohe bwo kuruhuka ku buso bwo hagati bworoshye kugwa.
Iyo habayeho igikorwa cyo kubanza gukora isutiye hanyuma igasigwa irangi (ni ukuvuga kuboha hanyuma igasigwa irangi), ibara n'ububengerane bizaba byiza kandi bihebuje, bifite agace kadasanzwe, cyane cyane kabereye imyenda y'inyuma y'abagore bakiri bato.
Umusatsi w'ibinyabutabire
Ikintu gikunze kugaragara ku myenda ni uko yoroshye.
Ba nk'ishati ya acrylic idafunze, ubudodo busanzwe bubohwa hamwe n'ubudodo bunini bwa acrylic, imiterere y'ubwoya bwayo isa n'ikomeye, ifite ibara n'ububengerane, ubwiza bw'ibikoresho ni ubushyuhe bworoshye, ubushuhe bugaruka hagati ya 0-4.5% gusa, imbaraga za fibre zigabanukaho ni ndende kurusha fibre y'ubwoya, ntizihinduka, ariko ubushobozi bwayo bwo koroha buragaruka, ni buke ugereranyije n'ubwoya, komeza ubushyuhe mu mibonano mpuzabitsina buri hasi ugereranyije n'ishati y'ubwoya busanzwe, igiciro ni gito, ariko byoroshye kuyikoresha, ikwiriye imyenda y'abana.
Mu minsi ishize, isoko mpuzamahanga ry’ubudodo bwa acrylic, fibre polyamide, ubudodo bwa mohair bwahinduwe bwa acrylic, bushobora kugereranywa n’ubwoya bw’urukwavu karemano, imyenda ya mohair.
Ubwoya bw'inyamaswa buvanze n'imigozi ya shimi
Ifite "imiterere yuzuzanya" y'ubwoya butandukanye bw'inyamaswa n'imigozi ya shimi, kandi igaragara nk'ubwoya, imbaraga zo kurekura zirarushaho kwiyongera, kandi igiciro cy'isutiye kiragabanuka. Ni ibicuruzwa byiza kandi bihendutse.
Ariko muri sweta ivanze, hari ikibazo cy'uko ingaruka zo gusiga irangi zidakwiye bitewe n'ubushobozi butandukanye bwo gusiga irangi no gukurura amabara bw'ubwoko butandukanye bw'imyenda.
4. Ibikoresho bisa n'ubwoya bw'ubukorano
Abongereza ni bo ba mbere bakoze ubushakashatsi ku gukuramo poroteyine mu kole y’inyamaswa kugira ngo bakore insinga za poroteyine z’ubukorano.
Mu 1935, hari abantu bo mu Butaliyani bagerageje gukura foromaje mu mata kugira ngo bakore ubwoya bw'ubukorano.
Kuva icyo gihe, hari ibihugu byagize icyo bigeraho mu gukora fibre y’ubukorano ikomoka kuri poroteyine ya soya na poroteyine y’ubunyobwa.
Kubera ibibazo by’ikiguzi cy’imirimo n’ikiguzi cyo gukora iyo migozi, umusaruro ni muto cyane.
YUNAI irajimye, ibura ibyiyumvo bishya, bitewe no kutabasha kwihuta, igaragara neza cyane kandi ntiyoroshye kuyibura.
Hari ubwoko bubiri bw'imigozi yakozwe n'abantu: imigozi yavuguruwe n'imigozi ya shimi. Imigozi yavuguruwe ni imigozi ya viscose ikorwa mu giti no mu byatsi binyuze mu gutunganya imiti.
Fibre y'ubutabire ni fibre ikoze mu buhanga ikozwe muri peteroli, gaze karemano, amakara n'ibikomoka ku buhinzi.
Dukurikije imiterere n'imikoreshereze y'imyenda yakozwe n'abantu, hari amoko atatu: rayon, rayon n'ubwoya.
Ubwoko bw'ingenzi bufite fibre ya viscose, fibre ya acetate, fibre ya ammonia y'umuringa n'ibindi.
Fibre ivuguruye ishobora kugabanywamo fibre ya cellulose ivuguruye, fibre ya ester ya cellulose, fibre ya poroteyine n'izindi fibre za polymer karemano.
Imiterere yayo ugereranije n'imigozi ya shimi, imigozi y'ibanze.
Igitambaro cyakozwe n'umuntu ahanini ni icyo kwerekana filament ya viscose na filament ya staple, ni ukuvuga ipamba ryakozwe n'umuntu abantu bazi, rayon n'ibindi.
Byongeye kandi, irimo n'igice cy'imyenda ikungahaye kuri fibre n'imyenda y'uburebure buringaniye hagati y'imigozi n'ibice by'ingenzi.
Kubwibyo, imiterere y'imyenda ya fibre y'umuntu iterwa ahanini n'imiterere y'imigozi ya viscose.
Imyenda ya Rayon na rayon yoroshye kuyikoraho, ihumeka neza kandi yoroshye kwambara, kandi ifite amabara meza cyane.
Igitambaro cyakozwe n'abantu gifite ubushobozi bwo kugabanya ubushyuhe, kandi ubushobozi bwo kugabanya ubushyuhe ni bwo bwiza kurusha ibindi byose mu bijyanye n'ubushyuhe. Ariko imbaraga zacyo zo gutose ni nke cyane, ni hafi 50% by'imbaraga zumutse gusa, kandi igipimo cyo kugabanya ubushyuhe mu gitambaro ni kinini, bityo kigomba kugabanuka mbere y'uko gicibwa neza.
Imyenda isanzwe ya viscose ifite imiterere yo kwambara neza, kudakomera neza, kudakomera no kudacika iminkanyari, bityo imyenda yayo ntishobora kwangirika neza kandi ikunda kwangirika.
Igitambaro cya viscose gifite ubushobozi bwo kurwanya aside na alkali, kirwanya imirasire y'izuba n'ibindi biyobyabwenge.
5. Ibikoresho bimeze nk'ubwoya bw'imiti isanzwe
Muri rusange, fibre y’ubukorikori ikoreshwa nk’ibikoresho by’ingenzi, fibre y’ubukorikori cyangwa ubudodo bw’amabara nk’umugozi w’inyongera, naho fibre nshya y’ubukorikori ikoreshwa nk’ibikoresho by’ingenzi, ifite imiterere ikwiye y’imyenda. Ubu bwoko bw’imyenda bufite ubwoko bubiri bw’imiterere karemano isa n’iya bambu.
Ifite imiterere karemano y'umunyu ngugu.
Igitambaro gifite ibara ryiza, kirabagirana, gishyushye kandi kirambaraye, kibereye rubanda.
Ubwoya bw'ibinyabutabire, ikintu gikunze kuranga imyenda ni ubwoya bworoheje.
Ba nk'ishati ya acrylic idafunze, ubudodo busanzwe bubohwa hamwe n'ubudodo bunini bwa acrylic, imiterere y'ubwoya bwayo isa n'ikomeye, ifite ibara n'ububengerane, ubwiza bw'ibikoresho ni ubushyuhe bworoshye, ubushuhe bugaruka hagati ya 0-4.5% gusa, imbaraga za fibre zigabanukaho ni ndende kurusha fibre y'ubwoya, ntizihinduka, ariko ubushobozi bwayo bwo koroha buragaruka, ni buke ugereranyije n'ubwoya, komeza ubushyuhe mu mibonano mpuzabitsina buri hasi ugereranyije n'ishati y'ubwoya busanzwe, igiciro ni gito, ariko byoroshye kuyikoresha, ikwiriye imyenda y'abana.
Mu minsi ishize, isoko mpuzamahanga ry’ubudodo bwa acrylic, poly-amide fibre blended, mohair modified acrylic, rishobora kugereranywa n’ubwoya bw’urukwavu karemano, imyenda ya mohair.
Ubwoya bw'inyamaswa n'ubwoya bw'imiti buvanze, bufite ubwoya butandukanye bw'inyamaswa n'imiti "byongera", isura yabwo ifite imiterere y'ubwoya, imbaraga zo kurekura zirarushaho kwiyongera, igabanya ikiguzi cy'ishati, ni ibicuruzwa bihendutse kandi byiza.
Ariko muri sweta ivanze, hari ikibazo cy'uko ubwoko butandukanye bw'imyenda bufite ubushobozi bwo gusiga irangi butandukanye no gukurura amabara atandukanye, ibyo bigatuma ingaruka zo gusiga irangi zitaba nziza.
Gutandukanya imyenda isa n'ubwoya bw'imiti n'imyenda y'ubwoya bw'umwimerere:
Igitambaro gisa n'ubwoya ahanini gikozwe mu migozi ya shimi, naho imigozi ya viscose ni myinshi, nka polyester/viscose y'ubwoya burebure buciriritse, polyester y'umwimerere n'ibindi bikoresho gisa n'ubwoya.
Ubwa mbere, ubwiza buratandukanye.
Imyenda y'ubwoya bw'umwimerere akenshi iba yoroshye kandi karemano, ifite ibara rito ry'ubwiza. Imyenda y'ubwoya bw'ibishushanyo mbonera bya fibre ifite amabara menshi kandi irabagirana. Iyo urebye neza munsi y'izuba, uzabona uduce tw'urumuri twinshi kandi turabagirana.
Iyi ngingo yo kwigana ubwoya bukonje kugira ngo busa n'imyenda y'ubwoya nayo ishobora kutamenyekana.
Icya kabiri, kumva no guhindagurika biratandukanye.
Imyenda y'ubwoya bw'umwimerere isa n'iyoroshye, imeze nk'iy'ubururu, igufwa ry'umubiri, ifite iminkanyari mike ariko ntikomeye, yoroshye ariko ntigororotse;
Nubwo polyester, isa n'ubwoya bw'intama, ariko igaragara nk'iyoroshye kandi yoroshye, nta magufwa y'umubiri, irashwanyagurika cyane, iragenda buhoro.
Icya gatatu, twika ubudodo nyuma yo gushushanya.
Ubudodo bw'imyenda y'ubwoya busanzwe bushobora kugaragara nyuma y'uko ubudodo bw'ubwoya butaringaniye, uburebure butandukanye, inyundo karemano, na viscose bigana uburebure bw'imyenda y'ubwoya, ubunini bungana.
Nyuma yo gushya, nyuma y’umuriro utangiye gushya buhoro buhoro, umuriro ugakomeza gushya, umusatsi uherekezwa n’impumuro, ivu, agace k’umukara gashyushye, ifu y’imyenda y’ubwoya bw’umwimerere, kandi hafi y’umuriro harashya, harashya vuba, umuriro w’umuhondo, umuriro ucana, ivu rigenda riguruka neza, umweru kandi rigasiga agace ka polyester/viscose gakomeye gusya.
Nanone kandi, isigarana ikibyimba cy'umukara nyuma yo gushya.
Kuva kuri bibiri kugeza kuri bibiri cyangwa byinshi by'ibintu cyangwa imyenda ivanze: ubwoya/viscose, ubwoya/poliyesita, ubwoya/silk, ubwoya/viscose/spandex, nibindi, ntabwo ikeneye gusa gusobanukirwa neza ubwoko butandukanye bw'imiterere n'imiterere ya fibre, kandi uburyo bwo gukoresha fibre nyinshi, uhereye kuri twongera gutwika ubushye kugeza ku ikizamini nyuma y'ikizamini, bushobora kugera ku mwanzuro nta nkomyi.
6. Ubwoya bwa Mercerized
Ibikoresho by’ubwoya bya Mercerizing ni ibikoresho bisanzwe by’ubwoya nyuma yo kuvurwa hakoreshejwe imiti no kuvurwa umubiri, kwangirika kw’ibipimo by’ubwoya, kandi binyuze mu gipimo cya shimi, bituma ubwoya burushaho kuba bwiza, burabagirana, budashobora kugabanuka iyo bumeswa, kandi bukwiriye imyenda y’ubukwe.
Ubwoya bwa Mercerizing ni uburyo bwo kuvura ibikomoka ku bwoya mu gikorwa cyo gusiga irangi no kurangiza ubwoya.
Ubwoya bugomba guterwa chlorine na Basolan DC cyangwa bugaterwa na protease kugira ngo busenye ingano y'ubuso bw'ubwoya kandi bugabanye itandukaniro riri hagati y'uburyo bwo gushwanyagurika mu gihe cyo kugenda imbere n'inyuma kw'ubwoya. Nyuma yo kuvurwa, ubwiza bw'ubwoya burushaho kwiyongera, buzwi nka mercerized wool.
Ubwoya bwa mercerized bushobora kubohwa mu bwoya busanzwe cyangwa buvanze.
Ibintu by'ingenzi biyiranga ni ukurwanya gushwanyagurika, gukaraba hakoreshejwe imashini, no kurwanya gusiga imiti.
Ikoranabuhanga rya Mercerized wool ryatangiye hagati mu myaka ya za 90, ni ikoranabuhanga rishya ryo gusiga amarangi no kurangiza ryakozwe hashingiwe ku ikoranabuhanga gakondo ryo gukumira ubushyuhe bw'ubwoya.
Igitambaro cy'ubwoya cyavuwe gifite ishusho ya cashmere n'ubururu nk'ubw'umweru.
Kubera iyo miterere, ibicuruzwa bikozwe mu bwoya byahise bikundwa cyane.
Kugeza ubu, ubwoya bwa mercerized bwakunzwe cyane, isoko ryarenze ingano y'ubwoya busanzwe.
Hari ibitekerezo bitandukanye ku bwoya bwa mercerized mu Bushinwa no mu bindi bihugu ku isi. Mu Bushinwa, ubwoya bwakuwemo fosifore bwitwa ubwoya bwa mercerized, mu gihe ubwoya mpuzamahanga bw'intama bushyuha cyane, bukanagurwaho 30% ~ 50%. Hanyuma, nyuma yo gukonjeshwa n'amazi akonje no gushushanywa, ubwoya bw'intama burebure kandi buto bwitwa ubwoya bwa mercerized.
7. Ubwoya
Ubwoya muri rusange bwitwa imyenda y'ubwoya.
Fibre y'ubwoya ni molekile za poroteyine zihurira hamwe, imiterere y'urwego rwihariye rw'imiterere y'ihembe rito, ipfundikiye cyane, imiterere y'udusate ni nto cyane, inyungu yatwo ni ukwirinda umwanda kwinjira muri fibre, bityo imyenda y'ubwoya ntiyoroshye kwandura.
Imashini zisukura imyenda zikunze guhura n'imyenda itandukanye iyo zimesa imyenda, kandi imyenda y'ubwoya nayo irakunze kugaragara.
Impamvu ubwoya butanga urumuri rwinshi ni:
(1) Urusobe rw'ibishishwa by'ubwoya rumaze gusaza igice;
(2) Ivumbi n'umwanda bisuka buhoro buhoro kandi bigafata ku mwobo, ku buryo ubuso bw'umwenda buba bwiza, bigatuma urumuri rugabanuka buri gihe, bigatuma habaho urumuri rwinshi.
Uburyo bwo gukuraho urumuri:
(1) Umugati ushobora kuzunguzwa mu ifu ugashyirwa mu mucyo, ukoresheje icyuma gishyirwa mu cyuma;
(2) Guteka: Shyiramo umuti wa aside asetiki ufite igipimo cya 3-5% n'ubushyuhe bwa 50°C mu gihe cy'iminota 3-5, hanyuma woge n'amazi meza.
Vinegere yera ishobora no gukoreshwa.
(3) Sukura n'uburoso mu gihe woza.
Fibre ni fibre karemano, ni umusaruro w’imbuto z’ibimera, amashami n’amababi bifite fibre nyinshi za shimi ntabwo zifite ubuziranenge bwiza, gene ikunda amazi mu fibre y’ipamba, ifite hygroscopicity nziza, ifata ibyuya, ihumeka neza, iraryoshye, kandi irakonje kandi ikonje, yoroshye, ntifata ku miterere y’ikoreshwa cyane mu nganda z’imyenda, ikirwa neza n’abaguzi.
Ibyiza: yoroshye kandi irabagirana ku ntoki, irabagirana kandi isanzwe, iraryoshye kandi ni nziza kwambara, yumva ko ari nziza, ifata ubushuhe neza, ntiyoroshye gushyushya, irinda ubushyuhe, iramira neza, cyane cyane nyuma yo gutunganya imyenda no kuyitera ipasi, ihindura imiterere y'imyenda neza kandi ikarinda imiterere yayo;
Icyitonderwa: Ubushyuhe bwo gukaraba ntibugomba kuba buri hejuru cyane, ntugakande cyangwa ngo uhine kugira ngo wirinde ko izuba rigera.
Aho gukanda: Gutera ipasi mu mazi, gutera ipasi mu buryo bwumye uhereye ku rundi ruhande.
Ingaruka mbi: irwanya alkali, iragabanuka, yoroshye gushwanyagurika.
8. Igitambaro cy'ubwoya-poliyesita
Igitambaro cy'ubwoya-poliyesita (ubwoya-poliyesita): Igitambaro gikozwe mu bwoya n'ubudodo bwa polyester, ubwoko busanzwe bw'igitambaro cy'ubwoya-poliyesita.
Igitambaro gikozwe mu bwoya bw'intama n'ubudodo bwa polyester.
Igipimo gisanzwe cyo kuvanga ubwoya na polyester ni 45∶55, ibyo bikaba bidatuma ubwoya bukomeza kuba bwiza gusa, ahubwo binatuma polyester irushaho kuba nziza.
Imyenda hafi ya yose ikomeye n'iyangiritse ifite ubwoko bw'imvange y'ubwoya na polyester.
Muri byo, umwenda w’indabyo zoroshye w’ubwoya na polyester worsted witwa cool, uzwi cyane nka woosh cool cyane, ni wo ugaragaza cyane imiterere y’umwe mu myenda ivanga ubwoya na polyester.
Hari double-ply warp and weft, double-ply warp, single-ply weft and single-ply warp and weft.
Ubusanzwe iyo ufite imigozi ibiri y'abagabo 50 ~ 70, imyenda yoroheje ifite imigozi ibiri y'abagabo 100 ~ 120.
Uburemere bw'umwenda ni hafi 170 ~ 190 g/m2.
Ugereranyije n'ubwoya bwa tweed, ubwoya bwa tweed bworoshye bwa polyester ni bworoshye kandi bworoshye mu miterere, bufite ubushobozi bwo kugarura iminkanyari, bukomeye kandi budashobora kwangirika, bworoshye kumesa, bwuma vuba, buramba, bufite ingano ihamye, ariko ntibumeze neza nk'ubwoya.
Niba ukoresha polyester yoroheje nk'ibikoresho fatizo, ubuso bw'ubudodo burabagirana.
Iyo ubwoya bw’inyamaswa bwihariye nka cashmere cyangwa ubwoya bw’ingamiya bukoreshejwe mu kuvanga, buzumva bunyerera kandi bufatana.
Igipimo rusange cy'ubuvange bw'ubwoya na polyester ni 45:55, ibyo bikaba bidakomeza gusa ibyiza by'ubwoya, ahubwo binatuma ibyiza bya polyester birushaho kuba byiza.
Ibyiza: ubwoya buvanze na polyester, imiterere yoroheje kandi yoroheje, ubushobozi bwo kugarura iminkanyari.
Iramba, yoroshye kuyimesa no kuyimutsa, ifite ingano ihamye, iramba kandi irakomeye mu gisenge
Ahantu ho gukaraba: banza ushyire amazi akonje mu minota 15, hanyuma woge n'isabune isanzwe ya sintetike, oge ubushyuhe bw'amazi ntibugomba kurenza dogere 45, ijosi, agapfukamunwa ahantu handuye ushobora gukoresha uburoso bworoshye bwo koza mu bwoya buhoro, nyuma yo gusukura neza, ushobora kuzunguruka buhoro, kugura umwuka ukonje ahantu hafite umwuka, ntugire aho ubohera, ntugomba kuma, kugira ngo kuko byeze bitume habaho iminkanyari.
9.T/R umwenda
Ni kimwe mu biranga umwenda wa T/R gukora ikoti rihagaze, ikoti ryo mu gituza n'imyenda isanzwe irimo plaid cyangwa stripe, flash cyangwa monochrome T/R.
Imyenda ya T/R ni imyenda ya polyester viscose. Imvange ya polyester viscose ni ubwoko bw'uruvange rwuzuzanya. Viscose ya polyester si ipamba, ubwoya, n'uburebure buciriritse gusa. Imyenda y'ubwoya izwi cyane nka "fast bus". Iyo polyester iri munsi ya 50%, ubu bwoko bw'imyenda ivanze bushobora gutuma polyester ikomeza, idacika iminkanyari, ingano yayo ihamye, ishobora kumeswa kandi ikambara neza. Kuvanga fibre ya viscose bituma umwuka unyura mu mwenda urushaho kugorana no gushonga. Ingano y'imyenda yagabanutse.
Koresha 65/35 cyangwa 67/33 kugira ngo ubone igipimo cya polyester/viscid-blend. Uruvange rwa polyester/viscose ni kimwe na polyester/viscose. Ibiranga ubu bwoko bw'imyenda ivanze ni uburyo bworoshye kandi busukuye, amabara meza, imiterere ikomeye y'ubwoya, ubushobozi bwo gukaraba intoki, ubushobozi bwo gufata amazi neza; Ariko guhora ari bibi.
Ibyiza: ikomeye, irwanya iminkanyari, ingano yayo ihamye, irashobora kumesa no kwambarwa.
Bishobora kunoza uburyo umwuka unyura mu mwenda, kugabanya uburyo utera imiti n'ibintu birwanya imihindagurikire y'ikirere.
Ahantu ho gukaraba: Imashini imesa ishobora gukoreshwa, ntukayisukure n'uburoso, kugira ngo wirinde ko isuka cyangwa ngo yumuke ku rundi ruhande.
10. NC ifite ubucucike bwinshi
Igitambaro cya NC gifite ubucucike bwinshi ni ubwoko bw'igitambaro kivanze cyangwa giboshye na poly-amide (nylon) n'ubudodo bwa ipamba.
Iki gicuruzwa gihuza ibyiza bya nylon n'ubudodo bw'ipamba.
Ubushobozi bwo kwambara bwa nylon buri ku mwanya wa mbere mu migozi karemano n'imigozi ya shimi. Uburyo bwo kwambara bwa nylon buruta ubwa polyester, kandi uburyo bwo kwambara neza no gusiga irangi ni bwiza kuruta ubwa polyester. Kubwibyo, uburyo bwo kwambara neza no kwambara neza kw'imigozi ya ipamba ntibizagabanuka iyo bivanze cyangwa bivanze n'imigozi ya ipamba.
Nayiloni ifite ubushobozi bwo gukurura neza. Iyo imaze kuvanga cyangwa kuboha n'ubudodo bw'ipamba, ubushobozi bwo gukurura bw'imyenda burushaho kwiyongera.
Ingorane z'imyenda ya NC ni: bitewe na nylon ikoreshwa mu kuboha cyangwa kuvanga, ubushobozi bwo kudashyuha no kudacana urumuri rw'imyenda ni buke, witondere kumesa no gutera ipasi mu gihe cyo kuyikoresha kugira ngo hirindwe kwangirika.
Imiterere yayo igaragara cyane: ntabwo yoroshye kwambara, yoroshye kandi iraryoshye, yoroshye kuyisukura.
Ntukatwikwe n'izuba, ntukabyikuremo.
Ahantu ho gukaraba: Ntukabyumishe, sukumisha mu mwijima.
Uburyo bwo kubungabunga: ntukambare igihe cy'umwaka, shyira inyuma ku gikapu cya pulasitiki.
Igihe cyo kohereza ubutumwa: Ukuboza 17-2024