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"[Denim] irimo kongera umwanya wayo ku isoko," ibi byavuzwe na Manon Mangin, umuyobozi w'ibicuruzwa by'imideli muri Denim Première Vision.
Nubwo inganda za denim zongeye kubona imiterere yazo myiza, ziritondera gushyira amagi yazo yose mu gatebo kamwe nk'uko byahoze mu myaka icumi ishize, aho inganda nyinshi zari zishingiye ku kugurisha amajini magufi kugira ngo zibone icyo zikenera.
Kuri uyu wa gatatu, muri Denim Première Vision i Milan, igikorwa cya mbere cy’umubiri mu myaka hafi ibiri ishize, Mangin yavuze ku ngingo eshatu z’ingenzi zagiye zigaragara mu nganda z’imyenda ya denim n’imyenda.
Mangin yavuze ko impeshyi n'impeshyi yo mu 2023 byagaragaje "impinduka" ku nganda za denim kugira ngo zihinduke ibitekerezo bishya bivanze n'ubwoko butunguranye. Uruvange rutangaje rw'imyenda n'"imyitwarire idasanzwe" bituma imyenda irenga imiterere yayo y'umwimerere. Yongeyeho ko iyo inganda zikora imyenda zongereye imyenda binyuze mu bucucike, ubworoshye n'ubushyuhe, iki gihembwe cy'izuba kiba ari ukugaragara.
Muri Urban Denim, iki cyiciro gihindura imiterere y'imyenda ifatika mu myambarire irambye ya buri munsi.
Aha, uruvange rw'ibishishwa rufata ishusho, bimwe mu biterwa n'imbaraga z'imyenda. Mangin yavuze ko umwenda wa denim usanzwe ukozwe mu ipamba y'umwimerere n'imiterere ikomeye ya 3 × 1 uhuye n'ibyo abaguzi bifuza kugira mu myambarire ikora neza. Ubudodo bugoye n'imyenda ya jacquard ifite ubudodo bunini byongera ubwiza bwo gukoraho. Yavuze ko amakoti afite imifuka myinshi n'ubudozi ari ibintu by'ingenzi muri iki gihembwe, ariko ntabwo bikomeye nk'aho ari hasi. Irangi ritava amazi rituma insanganyamatsiko ibereye umujyi irushaho kuba nziza.
Ijini zo mu Mujyi nazo zitanga uburyo bugezweho bwo gusenya ijini. Ijini zifite uburyo bwo kudoda bugezweho zishimangira icyiciro cyo gukora ibishushanyo by'imyenda. Imitako irambye—yaba ikozwe mu myenda y'imyanda cyangwa imyenda mishya ikozwe mu myenda yasubiwemo—irasukuye kandi ishobora gukora uruvange rw'amabara rwiza.
Muri rusange, kubungabunga ibidukikije ni ingenzi mu nsanganyamatsiko zigezweho. Denim ikozwe mu ipamba ryasubiwemo, imyenda y'ipamba, hemp, tencel na organic, kandi hamwe n'ikoranabuhanga ryo kurangiza rizigama ingufu no kuzigama amazi, byabaye ibisanzwe bishya. Ariko, imyenda myinshi ikorwa hakoreshejwe ubwoko bumwe gusa bwa fibre, bigaragaza uburyo inganda zishobora koroshya uburyo bwo kongera gukoresha imyenda mu gihe imyenda irangiye.
Insanganyamatsiko ya kabiri y’Icyerekezo cya Denim Première, Denim Offshoots, ikomoka ku cyifuzo cy’abaguzi cyo kwidagadura. Mangin yavuze ko insanganyamatsiko ari “imyambarire yo kuruhuka, kwisanzura no kwibohora” kandi ko yubaha cyane imyenda ya siporo.
Uku gusaba ihumure n'imibereho myiza ni byo bituma inganda ziyongera ubwoko bw'imyenda iboshye. Ibikoresho biboshye bya denim "bidashyira mu gaciro" mu mpeshyi no mu mpeshyi by'abantu 23 birimo imyenda ya siporo, amapantalo yo kwiruka n'amakabutura magufi, hamwe n'amakoti asa neza.
Gusubira kwihuza n'ibidukikije byabaye ikintu gikunzwe n'abantu benshi, kandi iyi ngeso irimo kwigaragaza mu buryo butandukanye. Igitambaro gifite inyuguti zo mu mazi n'ubuso bumeze nk'umuraba bitanga ituze kuri denim. Ingaruka z'ubutare n'amabara karemano bigira uruhare mu gukusanya ubutaka. Uko igihe cyagiye gihita, gucapa indabyo mu buryo buciriritse bisa nkaho byagiye bishira. Mangin yavuze ko imiterere ya kera ari ingenzi cyane ku myenda ya denim ikozwe mu mijyi cyangwa corsets.
Ijini yo mu bwoko bwa Spa igamije gutuma ijini zumva zimeze neza. Yavuze ko uruvange rwa viscose rutuma umwenda usa n'uruhu rwa peach, kandi amakanzu ahumeka neza n'amakoti yo mu bwoko bwa kimono akozwe mu mvange za lyocell na modal ari byo biba ibicuruzwa by'ingenzi muri iki gihembwe cy'imikino.
Inkuru ya gatatu ivuga ku bigezweho, Enhanced Denim, ivuga ku nzego zose z'inkuru z'amayobera kuva ku mucyo uhebuje kugeza ku "bwiza busesuye".
Ibara rya jacquard rifite imiterere y’umwimerere n’iy’ubusa ni insanganyamatsiko ikunzwe cyane. Yavuze ko ibara ry’ibara, ingaruka zo kwihisha hamwe n’ubudodo butose bituma umwenda w’ipamba 100% ku buso bunini. Organza imwe y’ibara ku mukandara no ku mufuka w’inyuma yongeraho ubwiza buto ku mwenda wa denim. Izindi myambarire, nka corsets n’amashati afite imishumi ya organza ku maboko, bigaragaza uruhu rwiza. Mangin yongeyeho ati: “Ifite umwuka wo guhindura ibintu mu buryo bugezweho.”
Indwara y’ikinyagihumbi ikomeje kugira ingaruka ku gukurura kwa Gen Z n’abakiri bato. Ibisobanuro birambuye ku bagore—kuva ku mabara y’urutare, kristu zifite ishusho y’umutima n’imyenda irabagirana kugeza ku mabara y’umutuku n’ibishushanyo by’inyamaswa—birakwiriye abantu bashya. Mangin yavuze ko icy’ingenzi ari ukubona ibikoresho n’imitako bishobora gusenywa byoroshye kugira ngo bikoreshwe mu kongera gukoreshwa.
Igihe cyo kohereza: 15 Ukwakira 2021