Sisitemu yo gutanga amanota ya Super 100s kugeza kuri Super 200s ipima ubwiza bwa fibre yubwoya, ihindura uko dusuzumaikositimu. Iki gipimo, cyatangiye mu kinyejana cya 18, ubu kiva mu myaka ya 30 kugeza 200, aho amanota meza asobanura ubuziranenge budasanzwe.Imyambarire ihebuje, cyane cyane ubwoya bwiza cyane bwambaye imyenda, ikozwe naya manota, itanga ubworoherane ntagereranywa. Byongeye kandi,ubwoya bwo hejuru bwo hejuru bwambaye imyendanaubwoya bubi bubereye imyendabazwiho kuramba no gukomera, bigatuma bahitamo kubantu bashishoza. Uwitekaimyenda iboshywemuri ibi byiciro byerekana neza kandi ukumva, uzamura imyenda yose.
Ibyingenzi
- Gutondekanya ubwoya, nka Super 100s kugeza kuri Super 200s, byerekana ubunini bwa fibre. Ibi bigira ingaruka kuburyo bworoshye kandi bwiza.
- Amanota yo hejuru, nka Super 150s no hejuru, yoroshye kandi meza. Biratunganye kubintu byingenzi.
- Kuriikoreshwa rya buri munsi, hitamo imyenda muri super 100s kugeza kuri super 140s. Ibi biratuje, birakomeye, kandi biracyumva neza.
Gusobanukirwa Gutanga ubwoya
Gutanga ubwoya ni iki?
Gutondekanya ubwoya ni inzira yo gusuzuma ubwiza bwa fibre yubwoya ukurikije ubwiza, uburebure, nibiranga muri rusange. Sisitemu yo gutanga amanota itanga ubudahwema mu gukora imyenda kandi ifasha abaguzi kumenyaubwiza bwibicuruzwa byubwoya. Amateka, gutondekanya ubwoya byahindutse hamwe niterambere mu gukora imyenda. Kurugero, kwinjiza sisitemu ya super numero ya Joseph Lumb na Sons byagaragaje impinduka mu nganda, hashyirwaho uburyo busanzwe bwo gupima ibintu byiza.
| Umwaka / Igihe | Icyabaye / Iterambere | Akamaro |
|---|---|---|
| Mu ntangiriro z'ikinyejana cya 19 | Inganda zogukora ubwoya zari mu ntangiriro | Gushiraho ibikenewe byinshi bya sisitemu nziza |
| 1968 | USDA yashyizeho ibipimo byo gutondekanya ubwoya | Uburyo bwo gutanga amanota kandi butangiza ibipimo bifatika |
| Intangiriro-100 | Joseph Lumb n'abahungu bagurishije 'Lumb's Huddersfieldsuper 100s' | Ivuka rya 'super' terminologiya mu gutondekanya ubwoya |
Impamvu Fibre Yuzuye
Ubwiza bwa fibre bugira uruhare runini muguhitamo ubworoherane, ihumure, hamwe nigiciro cyimyenda yubwoya. Ubushakashatsi bwa siyansi bugaragaza ko fibre nziza zitezimbere ubudodo, bikoroha kuzunguruka no gutunganya. Byongeye kandi, fibre nziza yongerera imbaraga ihumure, kuko igabanya ibyiyumvo bikabije bifitanye isano nubwoya bworoshye. Iri sano riri hagati ya diameter ya fibre (MFD) nigitambara cyiza birashimangira akamaro ko kuba mwiza mugukora ibicuruzwa byiza byubwoya.
Intego ya super numero ya sisitemu
Sisitemu ya super numero yoroshya gutondekanya ubwoya mugutanga agaciro kumibare ya fibre nziza. Iyi mibare, kuva kuri Super 100s kugeza kuri Super 200s, yerekana impuzandengo ya diameter ya fibre yubwoya muri microne. Kugirango ugere ku busobanuro, uburyo butandukanye bwa siyansi bukoreshwa:
| Uburyo | Ibisobanuro |
|---|---|
| Sisitemu ya Micron | Gupima impuzandengo ya fibre ya fibre muri microns, itanga sisitemu yo gutondekanya neza ikunzwe mumahanga. |
| Sisitemu yo Kubara Sisitemu | Itondekanya ubwoya bushingiye ku mubare wa hanks kuri pound, ikoreshwa mu buryo busimburana nabandi. |
| Sisitemu yo Kumaraso Yabanyamerika | Impamyabumenyi yubwoya bushingiye ku ijanisha ryamaraso ya Merino, ikunze gukoreshwa muri Amerika |
| Tekinike ya Microprojection | Imishinga ya fibre ibice kuri ecran yo gupimwa hejuru cyane, byemeza neza amanota. |
| Isesengura rya fibre optique | Isesengura ibice bya fibre byihuse, bipima fibre ibihumbi mumasegonda kugirango utange amanota meza. |
| Sirolan-Laserscan | Koresha urugero rwo gupima fibre diameter, kuvanga fibre kugirango isesengure neza ryinshi. |
Sisitemu ntabwo ifasha gusa abayikora mugukora imyenda ihamye ahubwo inaha imbaraga abakiriya guhitamo neza mugihe bahisemo imyenda yimyenda yubururu.
Kurangiza Super 100s kugeza kuri 200
Uburyo Imibare Yerekana Ubwiza bwa Fibre
Mugihe nahuye bwa mbere na sisitemu yo gutanga amanota, nashimishijwe nuburyo iyi mibare ifitanye isano itaziguye nubwiza bwubwoya bwubwoya. Buri mubare ugereranya diameter ntarengwa ya fibre muri microns. Kurugero, ubwoya bwa Super 100s bufite fibre ifite impuzandengo ya diametre ya 18.5, mugihe ubwoya bwa Super 200s bupima hafi micron 13.5. Umubare muto, umubare wa fibre; nini umubare, mwiza kandi woroshye ubwoya.
Kugirango ubyumve neza, reka turebe tekinike yo gupima ikoreshwa mukugereranya fibre nziza:
| Ubwoko bwerekana | Ibisobanuro |
|---|---|
| Ibipimo bitaziguye | Byerekanwa na diameter hamwe nu gice cyambukiranya fibre. |
| Ibipimo bitaziguye | Kugenwa nubwiza bwa fibre cyangwa uburebure, bigaragazwa ukurikije fibre ya fibre kuburebure bwa buri gice. |
| Ibice Rusange | Tex, dtex, na denier bikoreshwa muguhuza fibre ya fibre kuburebure. |
| Inyandiko | Misa (g) ya fibre 1000 m. |
| Dtex | 1/10 cya misa ya fibre m 1000. |
| Denier | Misa (g) ya fibre 9000 m; 1 guhakana = inyandiko 9. |
Ibi bipimo byemeza ko ababikora n'abaguzi kimwe bashobora kwizera amanota yumubare kugirango bagaragaze ubwiza nubwiza bwubwoya. Iyo nguraubwoya bw'akataraboneka bwambaye imyenda, Buri gihe ntekereza kuri aya manota kugirango ndebe ko mbona ubworoherane no kunonosorwa nifuza.
Igipimo cya Micron n'uruhare rwacyo mu gutanga amanota
Igipimo cya micron ni umugongo wo gutondekanya ubwoya. Ipima diameter ya fibre imwe, itanga inzira nyayo yo gutondekanya ubwoya. Fibre nziza, igabanura micron yayo, kandi urwego rwo hejuru rwayo. Kurugero, fibre yo murwego rwa Super 100s isanzwe ipima microni 18 na 19, mugihe iziri muri super 200s ziri munsi ya microne 14.
Ubushakashatsi bwemeje neza ibyo bipimo. Ubushakashatsi bugereranya ibipimo bya Fibre Diameter (AFD) ukoresheje ibikoresho bibiri, OFDA2000 na Minifiber EC, byagaragaje ko ibyo bikoresho byombi byatanze ibisubizo bisa. Uku gushikama kwemeza ko igipimo cya micron gikomeza kuba igipimo cyizewe cyo gutondekanya ubwoya. Nabonye ko iyo mpisemo imyenda itondekanye hamwe na super numero ndende, itandukaniro ryubworoherane nubworoherane birahita bigaragara.
Ihuza Hagati Yamanota Yisumbuye hamwe nintambara nziza yubwoya
Amashuri Yisumbuyeni kimwe no kwinezeza. Imyenda yubwoya muri super 150s kugeza kuri super 200s ni nziza cyane kuburyo budasanzwe, ikora imyenda yubudodo yumva idafite uburemere. Uru rwego rwo kunonosorwa nirwo rutuma imyenda yubwoya yuzuye yuzuye imyenda igaragara. Fibre ntabwo yoroshye gusa ahubwo irasa cyane, bivamo umwenda ushushanya neza kandi urwanya inkeke.
Ariko, hari byinshi kuri aya manota kuruta ubwiza. Ubwiza bwa fibre nabwo bwongera imyenda ihumeka, bigatuma biba byiza umwaka wose. Iyo nambaye ikositimu ikozwe mu bwoya bwa Super 180s, nshobora kumva itandukaniro muburyo bwiza. Ntabwo bitangaje kuba iyi myenda ari ikintu cyingenzi mubudozi bwo hejuru.
Ibyo byavuzwe, ni ngombwa kuringaniza ibinezeza nibikorwa bifatika. Mugihe amanota yo hejuru atanga ubworoherane butagereranywa, birashobora kutaramba kurenza amanota yo hasi nka Super 100s cyangwa Super 120s. Ku myambarire ya buri munsi, nkunze gusaba imyenda muri super 100s kugeza kuri super 140s, kuko zigereranya uburinganire bwuzuye hagati yimyambarire no kuramba.
Ubwiza, Ibinezeza, hamwe nibikorwa
Ukuntu Gutanga amanota bigira ingaruka kumyumvire no guhumurizwa
Kumva imyenda yubwoya biterwa cyane nurwego rwayo. Impamyabumenyi yo hejuru, nka Super 150s no hejuru, itanga imyenda ya silike yumvakwinezeza kuruhu. Amanota yo hasi, nka Super 100s, atanga ibitekerezo byoroshye ariko biracyoroshye kwambara buri munsi. Ubushakashatsi bugereranya ihumure rya tactile kurwego rwubwoya bwerekana ubushishozi:
| Umutwe wo Kwiga | Wibande | Uburyo |
|---|---|---|
| Ingano yubushishozi Ibipimo: Ubushakashatsi hamwe nigitambara cyoroshye-Uburemere | Kumenya ibipimo bya tactile mumyenda yuburemere bworoshye | Imirimo yo gutondeka kubuntu, gupima byinshi, gusesengura inyuma |
| Guteganya ihumure ryimyenda iva mubintu bya mehaniki na handfeel ukoresheje isesengura ryisubiraho | Gucukumbura umubano hagati yimikorere nubukorikori hamwe no guhumurizwa | Isesengura ryisubiramo, ibipimo bya KES-FB, itsinda ryinzobere |
| Kumenyekanisha Ibintu Byingenzi Byingenzi Bitera Ihumure Ryimyenda Ukoresheje Isesengura Ryisubiramo | Kumenya ibintu byingenzi byunvikana hamwe nubukanishi bigira ingaruka kumpumurizo | Intambwe yo gusubira inyuma isesengura, Ububikoshingiro |
Iyo mpisemo ubwoya bwiza bwuzuye imyenda, mbona uburyo amanota yo hejuru yumva yoroshye kandi meza. Itandukaniro rya tactile ryongera uburambe bwo kwambara muri rusange, bigatuma bikwiye gushorwa mubihe bidasanzwe.
Kuramba Kurwego Rwinshi
Kuramba biratandukanye cyane mubyiciro byubwoya. Mugihe amanota meza nka Super 180s arusha ubwitonzi, barashobora kubura kwihanganira amanota yo hasi. Kurugero, ubwoya bwa Super 100s butanga impagarike yo kuramba no guhumurizwa, bigatuma biba byiza gukoreshwa kenshi. Kugereranya amakuru yerekana itandukaniro:
| Ubwoko bwa Fibre | Kurwanya Kurwanya | Kuramba (Kwunama) | Imbaraga | Kurwanya Kurwanya |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Merino | Hejuru | Hejuru | Guciriritse | Hasi |
| Impamba | Hasi | Guciriritse | Hejuru | Hejuru |
| Polyester | Guciriritse | Hejuru | Hejuru | Guciriritse |
Nkunze gusaba Super 120s cyangwa Super 140s kubashaka kuringaniza kuramba no kwinezeza. Aya manota yihanganira kwambara no kurira mugihe gikomeza kugaragara neza.
Kuringaniza Ibinezeza nuburyo bufatika muguhitamo ubwoya
Guhitamo icyiciro cyubwoya burimokuringaniza ubuziranenge, ikiguzi, nibikorwa. Amanota yo hejuru, nubwo ari meza, ntashobora guhuza ubuzima bwose. Imiterere karemano yubwoya, nko kubika no gukonjesha, bituma iba amahitamo meza kandi meza. Ibyingenzi byingenzi birimo:
- Ubwoya bwa Merino butanga ubushyuhe nigihe kirekire ariko buza ku giciro cyo hejuru.
- Kuvanga na acrylic byongera igihe kirekire kandi bikagabanya ibikenerwa byo kubungabunga.
- Ubwoya buri hejuru butezimbere ubworoherane nubushuhe.
Kwambara burimunsi, nsanga imyenda muri super 100s kugeza kuri super 140s iringaniza neza. Batanga ubwiza bwimyenda yubururu yambaye imyenda itabangamiye ibikorwa cyangwa ikiguzi.
Guhitamo Icyiciro Cyukuri
Inama zo gusuzuma ibicuruzwa byubwoya
Igihegusuzuma ibicuruzwa by'ubwoya, Nibanze kubintu bitatu byingenzi: ubwiza bwa fibre, isoko, hamwe nogukoresha. Ubwiza bwa fibre bugena ubworoherane, kuramba, hamwe no kumva muri rusange imyenda. Buri gihe ngenzura super numero urwego, nkuko byerekana neza ubwiza bwubwoya. Kurugero, ubwoya bwa Super 100s butanga impagarike yo kuramba no guhumurizwa, mugihe ubwoya bwa Super 180s butanga ubworoherane butagereranywa mubihe bidasanzwe.
Amasoko ni ngombwa. Nshyize imbere ubwoya bukomoka ku mico, nka Merino, ihuza no kwiyongera kw'ibikoresho birambye. Ubushakashatsi buherutse gukorwa ku isoko bwerekana ko 73% byimyaka igihumbi bafite ubushake bwo kwishyura byinshi kubicuruzwa bitangiza ibidukikije. Iyi myumvire yerekana akamaro ko guhitamo ubwoya bwaba bwiza kandi bwangiza ibidukikije.
Ubwanyuma, ntekereza kubigenewe gukoreshwa. Indwara ya hypoallergenic yubwoya ihitamo neza kubantu bafite uruhu rworoshye cyangwa allergie. Ugereranije n'ipamba, ubwoya bugabanya amahirwe yo guhumeka, bikagira amahitamo meza kumyambarire ya buri munsi.
Guhuza amanota kubyo ukeneye nubuzima bwawe
Guhitamo icyiciro cyiza cyubwoya biterwa nubuzima bwawe nibyo ukunda. Buri gihe ndasaba ko natangirana no gusuzuma ibikorwa byawe bya buri munsi nibisabwa bya wardrobe. Kurugero, niba ukeneye ikositimu yo kwambara mu biro kenshi, Super 100s cyangwa Super 120s ubwoya butanga uburinganire bwuzuye bwo kuramba no guhumurizwa. Aya manota yihanganira gukoreshwa mugihe ukomeje kugaragara neza.
Abashaka kwinezezaubwoya bukwiriye umwendakubirori bidasanzwe, amanota yo hejuru nka Super 150s cyangwa Super 180s atanga ubwitonzi butagereranywa na elegance. Iyi myenda iranyeganyega neza kandi ikumva idafite uburemere, bigatuma iba nziza mubihe bisanzwe. Ariko, ntibishobora kuba birebire nkamanota yo hasi, kubwibyo ndabibitse kubikoresha kenshi.
Imibare yabaguzi yerekana ko ubwoya bwiza, nka Merino, buhabwa agaciro cyane kubera ubworoherane nubwiza bwabwo. Ubwoya bwo mu rwego rwo hagati butanga ibintu byinshi, mugihe ubwoya bworoshye butangaje mugihe kirekire kubikorwa biremereye. Gusobanukirwa itandukaniro bimfasha guhuza amanota meza kubyo nkeneye byihariye.
Gusobanukirwa Ikiguzi-Inyungu Yamanota Yisumbuye
Imyenda yo mu rwego rwohejuru yubwoya akenshi izana igiciro cyiza, ariko inyungu zirashobora kwerekana ikiguzi. Ubwoya bwiza, nka Super 180s cyangwa Super 200s, butegeka ibiciro biri hejuru kubera ubworoherane bwabyo hamwe nubwiza buhebuje. Ubushakashatsi bwemeza ko diameter ya fibre igira uruhare runini kubiciro byubwoya, hamwe na fibre nziza izana ibiciro byiza byisoko.
Ariko, burigihe napima ikiguzi ugereranije nikigenewe gukoreshwa. Kwambara burimunsi, nsanga Super 100s kugeza Super 140s ubwoya butanga agaciro keza. Aya manota atanga impirimbanyi yimyambarire kandi ifatika utarangije banki. Kurundi ruhande, gushora mumanota yo hejuru birumvikana mugihe kidasanzwe cyangwa mugihe cyo gukora itangazo.
Isesengura ry’imari naryo ryerekana isano iri hagati ya diameter ya fibre nigiciro. Kurugero, ubushakashatsi bwakozwe na Erasimusi na Delport (1987) na Nolan n'abandi. (2013) yemeza ko ubwoya bwiza bufite agaciro. Ubu bushishozi buramfasha gufata ibyemezo byuzuye muguhitamo imyenda, nkareba ko mbona ubuziranenge bwiza kuri bije yanjye.
Gusobanukirwa gutondekanya ubwoya ni ngombwa mu gufata ibyemezo neza mugihe uguze imyenda. Sisitemu ya Super 100s kugeza kuri Super 200s igira ingaruka ku buryo butaziguye ibyiyumvo, ubwiza, n'ibinezeza by'ubwoya. Buri gihe ndasaba ko harebwa ibyo ukeneye nibyifuzo byawe kugirango uhitemo imyenda yuzuye yubwoya yambaye imyenda mugihe icyo aricyo cyose.
Ibibazo
“Super” isobanura iki mugutondekanya ubwoya?
Ikirango cya "Super" cyerekana ubwiza bwa fibre. Umubare munini, nka Super 150s, bisobanura fibre nziza, bivamo imyenda yoroshye kandi nziza.
Ubwoya bwo murwego rwohejuru burigihe burigihe bwiza?
Ntabwo ari ngombwa. Impamyabumenyi yo hejuru, nka Super 180s, itanga ubworoherane nubwiza ariko irashobora kubura igihe kirekire. Kwambara burimunsi, ndasaba Super 100s kugeza Super 140s kuringaniza.
Nigute nshobora kumenya imyenda yukuri yuzuye ubwoya?
Reba ibyemezo nka Woolmark cyangwa ibirango byerekana urwego rwiza. Nanjye ndashaka ibirango bizwi kandi ngenzura imiterere yimyenda no kuboha ubuziranenge.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Jun-09-2025