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Sisitemu yo gupima amanota ya Super 100s kugeza Super 200s ipima ubunini bw'imigozi y'ubwoya, igahindura uburyo dusuzumaumwenda ukwiyeIki gipimo, cyatangiye mu kinyejana cya 18, ubu kiri hagati ya 30 na 200, aho amanota meza agaragaza ubwiza budasanzwe.Igitambaro cy'amasuti y'akataraboneka, cyane cyane imyenda y'ubwoya bw'akataraboneka, iboshywe muri ubu bwoko, itanga ubwoya bworoshye kandi bugezweho. Byongeye kandi,umwenda w'ubwoya buhanitsenaumwenda w'ubwoya bwangiritsezizwiho kuramba no kuba nziza, bigatuma ziba amahitamo meza ku bantu basobanukiwe.umwenda w'ikoti riboshyemuri ibi byiciro bitanga isura nziza, bikazamura imyenda iyo ari yo yose.

Ibintu by'ingenzi byakunzwe

  • Gupima ubwoya, nka Super 100s kugeza Super 200s, bigaragaza ububobere bwa fibre. Ibi bigira ingaruka ku buryo umwenda uba woroshye kandi uryoshye.
  • Amanota yo hejuru, nka Super 150s no hejuru, ni yoroshye kandi agezweho. Ni meza cyane ku birori by'ingenzi.
  • Kuriikoreshwa rya buri munsi, hitamo imyenda iri hagati ya Super 100 na Super 140s. Iyi ni imyenda ishimishije, ikomeye, kandi iracyaryoshye.

Gusobanukirwa Gupima Ubwoya

Gupima Ubwoya bw'Ubwoya ni iki?

Gupima ubwoya ni uburyo bwo gusuzuma ubwiza bw'imigozi y'ubwoya hashingiwe ku bunini bwayo, uburebure bwayo, n'imiterere yayo muri rusange. Uburyo bwo gupima butuma habaho ubwuzuzanye mu gukora imyenda kandi bugafasha abaguzi kumenyaubuziranenge bw'ibicuruzwa by'ubwoyaMu mateka, gupima ubwoya byagiye bitera imbere hamwe n’iterambere mu nganda z’imyenda. Urugero, gutangiza uburyo bwa Super number bwakozwe na Joseph Lumb and Sons byagize ingaruka zikomeye mu nganda, bishyiraho uburyo busanzwe bwo gupima ubukire.

Umwaka/Igihe Igikorwa/Iterambere Akamaro
Mu ntangiriro z'ikinyejana cya 19 Ibikorwa byo gukora uruganda rw'ubwoya byari bikiri bito Hashyizweho ko hakenewe uburyo bwo kunoza amanota
1968 USDA yashyizeho amahame ngenderwaho yo gushyira mu byiciro ubwoya Uburyo bwo gutanga amanota bwemewe n'amategeko no gushyiraho ibipimo ngenderwaho bifatika
Intangiriro y'amanota 100 Joseph Lumb na Sons bagurishije ikipe ya 'Lumb's Huddersfield'100s nziza cyane' Ivuka ry'imvugo 'super' mu gutondeka ubwoya

Impamvu ubuziranenge bwa fibre ari ingenzi

Uburyohe bwa fibre bugira uruhare runini mu kugena uburyo imyenda y’ubwoya yoroshye, ihumure, kandi ihenze. Ubushakashatsi bwa siyansi bwerekana ko imitako myiza yongerera ubushobozi imyenda y’ubwoya, bigatuma yoroha kuyizunguza no kuyitunganya. Byongeye kandi, imitako myiza yongerera ubushobozi bwo kuyiruhura, kuko igabanya ibyiyumvo bikunze kujyana n’ubwoya bukonje. Iyi sano iri hagati y’umurambararo wa fibre (MFD) n’ubwiza bw’imyenda igaragaza akamaro ko kuba heza mu gukora ibikoresho by’ubwoya byiza.

Intego ya Sisitemu ya Super Number

Sisitemu ya Super number yoroshya uburyo bwo gushyira mu byiciro ubwoya binyuze mu gushyira agaciro k'imibare ku buziranenge bwa fibre. Iyi mibare, kuva kuri Super 100 kugeza kuri Super 200, igaragaza impuzandengo y'umurambararo w'imigozi y'ubwoya muri mikoroni. Kugira ngo hagerwe ku buziranenge, hakoreshwa uburyo butandukanye bwa siyansi:

Uburyo Ibisobanuro
Sisitemu ya Micron Ipima umurambararo mpuzandengo wa fibre muri mikoroni, itanga uburyo bwo gupima neza bukundwa ku rwego mpuzamahanga.
Sisitemu yo Kubara Ihindagurika Ishyira mu byiciro ubwoya bushingiye ku mubare w'udupira kuri pound, ikoreshwa mu buryo bunyuranye n'ubundi.
Sisitemu y'Abanyamerika yo Gupima Amaraso Ipima ubwoya bushingiye ku ijanisha ry'amaraso ya Merino, akoreshwa cyane muri Amerika
Tekiniki yo gushushanya mikoro Ishyira ibice bya fibre kuri ecran kugira ngo bipimwe ku gipimo cyo hejuru, bityo bigenzurwe neza mu gupima.
Isesengura ry'umurambararo wa fibre y'urumuri Isesengura uduce twa fibre vuba, ipima ibihumbi by'imigozi mu masegonda kugira ngo ikore neza.
Sirolan-Lasercan Ikoresha urugero rw'inyongera mu gupima umurambararo wa fibre, kuvanga fibre kugira ngo ikore isesengura ryimbitse ry'ingano nyinshi.

Ubu buryo ntibufasha abakora gusa gukora imyenda ihoraho, ahubwo bunafasha abaguzi gufata ibyemezo birambuye mu gihe bahitamo imyenda y’ubwoya igezweho.

Guhindura Super 100s kugeza Super 200s

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Uburyo imibare igaragaza ubuziranenge bwa fibre

Ubwo nahuraga bwa mbere na sisitemu yo gushyira amanota kuri Super grading, nashimishijwe n'uburyo iyi mibare ifitanye isano itaziguye n'ubugari bw'imigozi y'ubwoya. Buri mubare ugaragaza umurambararo ntarengwa w'imigozi muri mikoroni. Urugero, ubwoya bwa Super 100s bufite imigozi ifite umurambararo mpuzandengo wa mikoroni 18.5, mu gihe ubwoya bwa Super 200s bungana na mikoroni 13.5. Uko umubare muto, niko umugozi uba munini; uko umubare munini, ubwoya burushaho kuba bwiza kandi bworoshye.

Kugira ngo tubisobanukirwe neza, reka turebe uburyo bwo gupima bukoreshwa mu gupima ubuziranenge bwa fibre:

Ubwoko bw'ikimenyetso Ibisobanuro
Ibimenyetso bitaziguye Bigaragazwa n'umurambararo n'agace k'umugozi.
Ibimenyetso bitaziguye Bigenwa n'ubwiza cyangwa uburebure bwa fibre, bigaragazwa hakurikijwe uburemere bwa fibre kuri buri gice cy'uburebure.
Ibice Bisanzwe Tex, dtex, na denier bikoreshwa mu kwerekana uburemere bwa fibre kuri buri gice cy'uburebure.
Tex Uburemere (g) bw'umunyu wa metero 1000.
Dtex 1/10 cy'uburemere bwa fibre ya metero 1000.
Umuhakana Uburemere (g) bwa fibre ya metero 9000; 1 denier = 9 tex.

Ibi bimenyetso byemeza ko abakora n'abaguzi bashobora kwizera amanota y'imibare agaragaza ubwiza n'ubwiza bw'ubwoya. Iyo nguzeumwenda w'ubwoya bw'akatarabonekaBuri gihe ntekereza kuri aya manota kugira ngo nemeze ko ndushaho kuryoha no kunoza nifuza.

Igipimo cya Micron n'uruhare rwacyo mu gutanga amanota

Igipimo cya mikoroni ni cyo gice cy’ingenzi cyo gupima ubwoya. Gipima umurambararo w’imigozi imwe imwe, gitanga uburyo nyabwo bwo gushyira mu byiciro ubwoya. Uko imigozi iba myiza, ni ko ipima mikoroni iba nto, kandi ni ko Super grade yayo iba iri hejuru. Urugero, imigozi yo mu cyiciro cya Super 100s isanzwe ipima hagati ya mikoroni 18 na 19, mu gihe iyo mu myaka ya Super 200s iba iri munsi ya mikoroni 14.

Ubushakashatsi bwemeje ukuri kw'ibi bipimo. Inyigo yagereranije ibipimo bya Average Fiber Diameter (AFD) hakoreshejwe ibikoresho bibiri, OFDA2000 na Minifiber EC, yasanze ibikoresho byombi byatanze ibisubizo bisa cyane. Uku guhuza neza kwemeza ko igipimo cya micron gikomeza kuba igipimo cyizewe cyo gupima ubwoya. Nabonye ko iyo nhisemo imyenda ifite amanota menshi ya Super, itandukaniro mu bworoshye no koroha rihita rigaragara.

Isano iri hagati y'imyenda yo mu rwego rwo hejuru n'imyenda y'ubwoya bw'akataraboneka

Amanota yo hejuru ya SuperBisa n'ibigezweho. Imyenda y'ubwoya iri mu bwoko bwa Super 150s na Super 200s ni myiza cyane, bigatuma igaragara nk'ubudodo butagira uburemere. Uru rwego rwo kunoza ni rwo rutuma imyenda ijyanye n'ubwoya igaragara neza. Imitako ntiyoroshye gusa ahubwo inasa neza, bigatuma umwenda ufata neza kandi ukarinda iminkanyari.

Ariko, hari byinshi kuri ibi byiciro uretse ubwiza gusa. Ubunini bw'imigozi butuma imyenda ihumeka neza, bigatuma ikoreshwa umwaka wose. Iyo nambaye ikositimu ikozwe mu bwoya bwa Super 180s, numva itandukaniro mu ihumure n'ubwiza. Ntibitangaje kuba iyi myenda ari ingenzi mu kudoda imyenda mu buryo bugezweho.

Nubwo bimeze bityo ariko, ni ngombwa kuringaniza ubwiza n'imikorere. Nubwo ubwiza bwo hejuru butanga ubworoshye budasanzwe, bushobora kudakomera cyane ugereranyije n'ubwiza bwo hasi nka Super 100s cyangwa Super 120s. Ku myambarire ya buri munsi, nkunda gutanga inama ku myenda iri hagati ya Super 100s na Super 140s, kuko ihuza neza ubwiza n'ubuzima burambye.

Ubwiza, Ubuherwe, n'Ibikorwa Bifatika

Uburyo Gupima Ingano Bigira Ingaruka ku Kuntu Imyenda Imerewe n'Ihumure

Uburyo imyenda y'ubwoya iteye biterwa cyane n'urwego rwayo. Amanota yo hejuru, nka Super 150s no hejuru yayo, atanga imiterere isa n'iy'ubudodo.nziza cyane ku ruhuAmanota yo hasi, nka Super 100s, atanga imiterere ikomeye ariko aracyari meza mu kwambara buri munsi. Ubushakashatsi bugereranya uburyo bworoshye bwo kwambara mu bwoya bw'intama bugaragaza ibintu bishimishije:

Umutwe w'Inyigo Icyibandwaho Uburyo bwo gukora
Ingano y'uburyo bwo kubona ibintu: Inyigo ikoreshwa ku myenda yoroheje y'ubwoya Kumenya ingano zifatika mu myenda yoroheje y'ubwoya Imirimo yo gutondeka ku buntu, Gupima ibintu byinshi, Isesengura ryo gusubira inyuma
Gusuzuma ihumure ry'imyenda ikoze mu buryo bufatika bitewe n'imiterere y'ibikoresho n'amaboko hakoreshejwe isesengura ry'isubira inyuma ry'imyenda. Gusuzuma isano iri hagati y'imiterere y'imikorere n'iy'amatwi ndetse n'ihumure rikorwaho Isesengura ry'isubira inyuma, ibipimo bya KES-FB, itsinda ry'impuguke mu by'amajwi
Kumenya Imiterere y'ingenzi cyane igira ingaruka ku ihumure ry'imyenda ikoraho hakoreshejwe isesengura rya regression Kumenya imiterere y'ingenzi y'amajwi n'imikorere y'imashini igira ingaruka ku ihumure Isesengura ry'isubira inyuma ry'intambwe, isano iri hagati ya database

Iyo nhisemo imyenda y’ubwoya igezweho, mbona uburyo ibara ry’igiciro cyo hejuru rituma umuntu yoroha kandi arushaho kuba mwiza. Iri tandukaniro rituma umuntu yambara neza, bigatuma biba byiza iyo ashoye mu birori bidasanzwe.

Kuramba mu byiciro bitandukanye

Kuramba gutandukanye cyane mu byiciro by'ubwoya. Nubwo imiterere myiza nka Super 180s ari yo irusha izindi mu bwoya, ishobora kubura ubushobozi bwo kwihanganira imiterere yo hasi. Urugero, ubwoya bwa Super 100s butanga uburinganire mu kuramba no kwisanzura, bigatuma buba bwiza cyane mu gukoreshwa kenshi. Amakuru ajyanye n'igereranya agaragaza itandukaniro riri hagati y'ibi bikurikira:

Ubwoko bwa Fibre Ubudahangarwa bw'iminkanyari Kuramba (Guhindagurika) Imbaraga zo Gufata Ubudahangarwa ku gushwanyagurika
Ubwoya bwa Merino Hejuru Hejuru Iringaniye Hasi
Ipamba Hasi Iringaniye Hejuru Hejuru
Polyester Iringaniye Hejuru Hejuru Iringaniye

Nkunda gutanga inama ku bantu bashaka uburinganire hagati yo kuramba no kwishimisha. Izi ntera zihanganira kwangirika no kwangirika mu gihe zigumana isura nziza.

Guhuza ubwiza n'imikorere mu guhitamo ubwoya

Guhitamo ubwoko bukwiye bw'ubwoya bikubiyemokuringaniza ubuziranenge, ikiguzi, n'imikorere. Amanota yo hejuru, nubwo ari meza cyane, ashobora kutaberana n'uburyo bwose bwo kubaho. Imiterere karemano y'ubwoya, nko gukingira no gukurura ubushuhe, ituma buba amahitamo meza kandi ashimishije. Ibintu by'ingenzi bigomba kwitabwaho harimo:

  • Ubwoya bwa Merino butanga ubushyuhe n'ubudahangarwa ariko buza ku giciro cyo hejuru.
  • Kuvanga na acrylic byongera kuramba kandi bigagabanya ibyo ukeneye mu kubungabunga.
  • Ubunini bw'ubwoya bworoshye butuma bworoha kandi bukagira ubushobozi bwo gushyuha.

Ku myambarire ya buri munsi, mbona ko imyenda iri mu bwoko bwa Super 100s na Super 140s ifite uburinganire buhebuje. Itanga ubwiza bw'imyenda y'ubwoya igezweho idasaba ko ikoreshwa cyangwa ikiguzi cyayo cyagabanuka.

Guhitamo ubwoko bwiza bw'ubwoya

Guhitamo ubwoko bwiza bw'ubwoya

Inama zo gusuzuma ibicuruzwa by'ubwoya

Igihegusuzuma ibicuruzwa by'ubwoya, nibanda ku bintu bitatu by'ingenzi: ubwiza bwa fibre, isoko, n'ikoreshwa ryayo. Ubwiza bwa fibre bugena uburyo imyenda yoroshye, iramba, n'uburyo igaragara muri rusange. Buri gihe ngenzura urwego rwa Super number, kuko rugaragaza neza uburyo ubwoya butoshye. Urugero, ubwoya bwa Super 100s butanga uburinganire mu kuramba no kwisanzura, mu gihe ubwoya bwa Super 180s butanga ubworoshye budasanzwe mu birori bidasanzwe.

Gushaka ibikoresho nabyo ni ingenzi. Nshyira imbere ubwoya bukomoka ku mahame mbwirizamuco, nka Merino, bujyanye n'ubwiyongere bw'ubukene bw'ibikoresho birambye. Ubushakashatsi buherutse gukorwa ku isoko bwerekanye ko 73% by'abakuze biteguye kwishyura amafaranga menshi ku bicuruzwa bitangiza ibidukikije. Iyi nzira igaragaza akamaro ko guhitamo ubwoya bwiza kandi bufite akamaro ku bidukikije.

Hanyuma, ndatekereza ku ikoreshwa ry’umwenda. Imiterere y’ubwoya idafite allergie ituma buba amahitamo meza ku bantu bafite uruhu rworoshye cyangwa allergie. Ugereranyije n’ipamba, ubwoya bugabanya ibyago byo kugira ibibazo byo guhumeka, bigatuma buba amahitamo meza yo kwambara buri munsi.

Guhuza Amanota n'ibyo ukeneye n'imibereho yawe

Guhitamo ubwoko bukwiye bw'ubwoya biterwa n'imibereho yawe n'ibyo ukunda. Buri gihe ndagusaba gutangirana n'isuzuma ry'ibikorwa byawe bya buri munsi n'ibyo ukeneye mu myenda. Urugero, niba ukeneye ikositimu yo kwambara kenshi mu biro, ubwoya bwa Super 100s cyangwa Super 120s butanga uburyo bwiza bwo kuramba no kwisanzura. Ubu bwoko bushobora kwihanganira gukoreshwa buri gihe kandi bugakomeza kuba bwiza.

Ku bashaka ibinezezaumwenda uhuye n'ubwoyaKu birori bidasanzwe, imyenda yo mu rwego rwo hejuru nka Super 150s cyangwa Super 180s itanga ubworoherane n'ubwiza budasanzwe. Iyi myenda irabagirana neza kandi yumva nta buremere ifite, bigatuma iba nziza mu birori byemewe. Ariko, ishobora kuba idakomeye nk'iyo mu rwego rwo hasi, bityo ndayibikira kuyikoresha gake.

Amakuru ajyanye n'abaguzi agaragaza ko ubwoya bwiza, nka Merino, buhabwa agaciro gakomeye kubera ubwoya bworoshye kandi bunogeye. Ubwoya bw'ubwoko buciriritse butanga ubushobozi bwo gukora ibintu bitandukanye, mu gihe ubwoya buto bukunda kuramba cyane mu bikorwa bikomeye. Gusobanukirwa aya matandukaniro bimfasha guhuza urwego rukwiye n'ibyo nkeneye byihariye.

Gusobanukirwa Ikiguzi n'Ibyiza by'Amanota yo mu rwego rwo hejuru

Imyenda y’ubwoya yo mu rwego rwo hejuru ikunze kugira igiciro cyiza, ariko inyungu zishobora gutuma ikiguzi gihinduka. Ubwoya bwiza, nka Super 180s cyangwa Super 200s, bufite ibiciro biri hejuru bitewe n’uko bworoshye cyane kandi bunogeye. Ubushakashatsi bwemeza ko umurambararo wa fibre ugira ingaruka zikomeye ku biciro by’ubwoya, aho fibre nziza zigura ibiciro byiza ku isoko.

Ariko, buri gihe npima ikiguzi ugereranyije n'icyo nteganya gukoresha. Ku myambarire ya buri munsi, nsanga ubwoya bwa Super 100s kugeza Super 140s butanga agaciro keza. Ubu bwoko butanga uburinganire bw'ubwiza n'imikorere myiza nta kugabanyirizwa amafaranga. Ku rundi ruhande, gushora imari mu byiciro byo hejuru bifite ishingiro mu birori bidasanzwe cyangwa mu gihe cyo gukora inyandiko isobanutse.

Isesengura ry’imari rigaragaza kandi isano iri hagati y’umurambararo wa fibre n’igiciro. Urugero, ubushakashatsi bwakozwe na Erasmus na Delport (1987) na Nolan n’abandi (2013) bwemeza ko ubwoya bwiza ari ubw’agaciro kurushaho. Ubu busobanuro bumfasha gufata ibyemezo bifatika mu gihe nhitamo imyenda, nkamenya neza ko mbona ubwiza bujyanye n’ingengo y’imari yanjye.


Gusobanukirwa uburyo bwo gutondeka imyenda y'ubwoya ni ingenzi mu gufata ibyemezo bifatika mu gihe ugura imyenda. Sisitemu ya Super 100s kugeza Super 200s igira ingaruka ku buryo butaziguye ku buryo ubwoya bumeze, ubwiza n'ubwiza bwabwo. Buri gihe nsaba gutekereza ku byo umuntu akeneye n'ibyo akunda kugira ngo uhitemo umwenda ukwiriye ubwoya bw'ubwoya bw'akataraboneka.

Ibibazo Bikunze Kubazwa

"Super" bivuze iki mu gutondeka ubwoya?

Ikimenyetso cya "Super" kigaragaza ubugari bw'imigozi y'ubwoya. Imibare myinshi, nka Super 150s, bivuze imigozi myiza, bigatuma imyenda yoroshye kandi ihenze cyane.

Ese ubwoya bwo mu rwego rwo hejuru buri gihe ni bwiza?

Si ngombwa. Amanota yo hejuru, nka Super 180s, atanga ubworoherane n'ubwiza ariko ashobora kubura kuramba. Ku myambaro ya buri munsi, ndagusaba kwambara Super 100s kugeza Super 140s kugira ngo urebe neza.

Ni gute namenya imyenda y'ubwoya bw'umwimerere igezweho?

Reba ibyangombwa nka Woolmark cyangwa ibirango bigaragaza Super grade. Nanone nshaka ibirango byemewe kandi nkareba imiterere y'imyenda n'ubwiza bwayo.


Igihe cyo kohereza: Kamena-09-2025