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Sistimi ea maemo ea Super 100s ho isa ho Super 200s e lekanya bokhabane ba likhoele tsa boea, e fetola mokhoa oa rona oa ho lekanyasutu lesela. Sekala sena, se qalileng lekholong la bo18 la lilemo, joale se tloha ho 30s ho isa ho 200s, moo limaraka tse holimo li bonts'ang boleng bo ikhethang.Luxury sutu lesela, haholo-holo boea bo mabothobotho bo apereng lesela, le lohiloeng ka limaraka tsena, le fana ka bonolo bo ke keng ba lekanngoa le ho rarahana. Ho feta moo,lesela la boea bo phahameng bo loketsenglelesela la boea bo sothehileng bo sutuli tsebahala ka ho tšoarella ha tsona le bokhabane, e leng se etsang hore e be khetho e ratoang ke batho ba nang le temoho. Thelesela le lohiloeng la lisutuka mekhahlelo ena e tiisa ponahalo e hloekisitsoeng le maikutlo, ho phahamisa liaparo leha e le life.

Lintlha tsa bohlokoa

  • Ho hlopha boea, joalo ka Super 100s ho isa ho Super 200s, ho bontša bosesaane ba fiber. Sena se ama tsela eo lesela le ikutloang le le bonolo ebile le le majabajaba.
  • Limaraka tse holimo, joalo ka Super 150s ho ea holimo, li bonolo ebile li setaele ho feta. Li phethahetse bakeng sa liketsahalo tsa bohlokoa.
  • Bakeng satšebeliso ea letsatsi le letsatsi, khetha masela ho Super 100s ho isa ho Super 140s. Tsena li phutholohile, li matla, 'me li ntse li ikutloa li le monate.

Ho Utloisisa Ho Kena ka Boea

Ho Hlophisa Boea ke Eng?

Ho hlopha boea ke mokhoa oa ho lekola boleng ba likhoele tsa boea ho ipapisitsoe le botle ba tsona, bolelele, le litšobotsi ka kakaretso. Sistimi ea ho hlophisa e netefatsa ho tsitsisa tlhahiso ea lesela mme e thusa bareki ho tsebahatsaboleng ba lihlahisoa tsa boea. Ho latela nalane, maemo a boea a bile teng hammoho le tsoelopele ea tlhahiso ea masela. Mohlala, ho hlahisoa ha Super number system ka Joseph Lumb and Sons ho tšoaile phetoho indastering, ho theha mokhoa o tloaelehileng oa ho lekanya mabothobotho.

Selemo/Nako Ketsahalo/Tsweletso Bohlokoa
Qalong ea lekholo la bo19 la lilemo Mekhoa ea tlhahiso ea leloala la boea e ne e sa le banyenyane E thehile tlhoko ea litsamaiso tse ntlafalitsoeng haholoanyane tsa maemo
1968 USDA e thehile litekanyetso tsa ho hlopha boea Mekhoa e hlophisitsoeng ea maemo le ho hlahisa mekhoa ea sepheo
Kenyelletso ea sehlopha sa 100s Joseph Lumb and Sons ba rekisitse 'Lumb's Huddersfieldsuper 100s' Ho tsoaloa ha mantsoe a 'super' a ho hlopha boea

Ke Hobane'ng ha Fiber Fineness e le Bohlokoa

Fiber fineness e phetha karolo ea bohlokoa tabeng ea ho tseba hore na masela a boea ke a bonolo, a phutholohile le a mabothobotho. Liphuputso tsa mahlale li senola hore likhoele tse khabane li ntlafatsa thepa ea likhoele, li etsa hore ho be bonolo ho ohla le ho sebetsa. Ho feta moo, likhoele tse khabane li ntlafatsa boemo ba boiketlo, kaha li fokotsa ho utloahala ha prickly hangata ho amanang le boea bo mahoashe. Kamano ena pakeng tsa mean fiber diameter (MFD) le majabajaba a masela e totobatsa bohlokoa ba bokhabane ho theheng lihlahisoa tsa boleng bo holimo tsa boea.

Morero oa Super Number System

Sistimi ea Super number e nolofatsa maemo a boea ka ho fana ka boleng ba linomoro ho fiber fineness. Linomoro tsena, ho tloha ho Super 100s ho ea ho Super 200s, li bonts'a bophara bo tloaelehileng ba likhoele tsa ulu ka har'a li-micron. Ho finyella ho nepahala, mekhoa e fapaneng ea saense e sebelisoa:

Mokhoa Tlhaloso
Sistimi ea Micron E lekanya bophara ba faeba e mahareng ka li-micron, e fana ka sistimi e nepahetseng ea maemo e ratoang machabeng.
Sisteme ea ho bala ea Spinning E arola boea ho latela palo ea li-hanks ka ponto, e sebelisoang ka mokhoa o fapaneng le tse ling.
Sistimi ea Kereiti ea Mali ea Amerika Boea ba Kereiti bo ipapisitse le peresente ea mali a Merino, a sebelisoang hangata US
Mokhoa oa Microprojection E etsa likarolo tsa fiber skrineng bakeng sa litekanyo ka ho holisa haholo, ho netefatsa ho nepahala ha maemo.
Optical Fiber Diameter Analyzer E sekaseka maqiti a faeba kapele, e lekanya likete tsa likhoele ka metsotsoana bakeng sa kereiti e sebetsang hantle.
Sirolan-Laserscan E sebelisa subsample bakeng sa tekanyo ea bophara ba fiber, e kopanya likhoele bakeng sa tlhahlobo e nepahetseng ea bongata.

Sistimi ena ha e thuse bahlahisi feela ho hlahisa masela a ts'oanang empa e boetse e matlafatsa bareki ho etsa khetho e nepahetseng ha ba khetha lesela la lisutu tsa boea bo mabothobotho.

Ho khetha Super 100s ho Super 200s

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Kamoo Lipalo li Bontšang Bokhabane ba Fiber

Ha ke qala ho kopana le sistimi ea Super grading, ke ile ka khahloa ke kamoo linomoro tsena li amanang ka kotloloho le boleng ba likhoele tsa ulu. Nomoro ka 'ngoe e emela bophara bo boholo ba likhoele tse ka har'a microns. Mohlala, boea ba Super 100s bo na le likhoele tse bophara ba li-micron tse 18.5, ha boea ba Super 200s bo lekanya ho pota 13.5 microns. Ha palo e le nyane, fiber e ba mahoashe; palo e kholoanyane, boea bo ba bobebe ebile bo le bonolo.

Ho utloisisa sena hamolemo, a re shebeng mekhoa ea ho lekanya e sebelisoang ho lekanya fiber fineness:

Mofuta oa Letšoao Tlhaloso
Lipontšo tse tobileng E bonts'oa ka bophara le karolo e ka holimo ea fiber.
Lipontšo tse sa Tobang E laolwa ke boleng kapa bolelele ba faeba, e hlahiswang ho ya ka boima ba faeba ka bolelele ba yuniti.
Lihlopha tse tloaelehileng Tex, dtex, le denier li sebelisoa ho emela fiber boima ka bolelele ba yuniti.
Tex Boima (g) ba faeba ea 1000 m.
Dtex 1/10 ea boima ba fiber ea 1000 m.
Denier Boima (g) ba fiber ea 9000 m; 1 denier = 9 tex.

Matshwao ana a netefatsa hore bahlahisi le bareki ka ho tshwana ba ka tshepa mephato ya dinomoro ho bontsha boleng le mabothobotho a boya. Ha ke rekaboea bo mabothobotho bo sutu lesela, Ke lula ke nahana ka limaraka tsena ho netefatsa hore ke fumana bonolo le ntlafatso eo ke e lakatsang.

Sekala sa Micron le Karolo ea Sona ho Kereiting

Sekala sa micron ke mokokotlo oa ho hlophisa boea. E lekanya bophara ba likhoele ka bomong, e fana ka mokhoa o nepahetseng oa ho arola boea. Ha fiber e ntlafala, e theola tekanyo ea eona ea micron, 'me e phahamisa boemo ba eona ba Super. Mohlala, likhoele tse sehlopheng sa Super 100s hangata li lekanya lipakeng tsa 18 le 19 microns, athe tse ho Super 200s li oela ka tlase ho 14 microns.

Lipatlisiso li netefalitse ho nepahala ha litekanyo tsena. Phuputso e bapisang litekanyo tsa Average Fiber Diameter (AFD) ho sebelisoa lisebelisoa tse peli, OFDA2000 le Minifiber EC, e fumane hore lisebelisoa tsena ka bobeli li hlahisitse liphello tse batlang li tšoana. Ho tsitsana hona ho netefatsa hore sekala sa micron se lula e le tekanyetso e tšepahalang ea boea ba ho hlophisa. Ke hlokometse hore ha ke khetha masela a nang le linomoro tse phahameng tsa Super, phapang ea bonolo le boreleli e bonahala hang-hang.

Khokahano Pakeng tsa Kereiti e Phahameng le Lesela la Luxury Wool Suits

Limaraka tse phahameng tsa Superli tšoana le tsa mabothobotho. Masela a boea ho li-Super 150s ho isa ho Super 200s a matle ka mokhoa o makatsang, a theha sebopeho sa silika se ikutloang se se na boima. Boemo bona ba ntlafatso ke bona bo etsang hore lesela la sutu ea boea bo mabothobotho le hlahelle. Likhoele ha li bonolo feela empa li boetse li tšoana haholo, e leng se etsang hore lesela le betle hantle 'me le se ke la sosobana.

Leha ho le joalo, ho na le ho hongata ho limaraka tsena ho feta aesthetics feela. Bokhabane ba likhoele bo boetse bo etsa hore lesela le phefumolohe, le etse hore le loketse ho apara selemo ho pota. Ha ke apara sutu e entsoeng ka boea ba Super 180s, ke khona ho utloa phapang ea boiketlo le bokhabane. Ha ho makatse hore ebe masela ana ke mokhoa o ka sehloohong oa ho roka ha maemo a holimo.

Seo se boletse, ke habohlokoa ho leka-lekanya mabothobotho le ho sebetsa. Leha limaraka tse holimo li fana ka bonolo bo ke keng ba lekanngoa, li ka tšoarella hanyane ho feta limaraka tse tlase joalo ka Super 100s kapa Super 120s. Bakeng sa moaparo oa letsatsi le letsatsi, hangata ke khothaletsa masela ho tloha ho Super 100s ho isa ho Super 140s, ha a ntse a leka-lekana pakeng tsa mabothobotho le bophelo bo bolelele.

Boleng, Bokhabane, le Ts'ebetso

Kamoo ho Kereiti ho Amang Maikutlo a Lesela le Matšeliso

Boikutlo ba lesela la boea bo itšetlehile haholo ka boemo ba eona. Limaraka tse holimo, joalo ka li-Super 150s le ho feta, li fana ka sebopeho sa silika se ikutloangbokhabane kgahlanong le letlalo. Limaraka tse tlase, joalo ka li-Super 100s, li fana ka maikutlo a mahoashe empa li ntse li phutholohile bakeng sa moaparo oa letsatsi le letsatsi. Lithuto tse bapisang boiketlo ba boea ho limaraka tsa boea li senola lintlha tse khahlisang:

Sehlooho sa Thuto Tsepamisa maikutlo Mokhoa
Tactile Perceptual Dimensions: Thuto e nang le masela a boea a bobebe bo bobebe Ho khetholla litekanyo tse tactile masela a boea a boima bo bobebe Mesebetsi ea mahala ea ho hlopha, Multidimensional scaling, Regression analysis
Ho bolela esale pele boiketlo ba masela a tactile ho tsoa ho thepa ea mochini le ea letsoho ho sebelisa tlhahlobo ea ho fokotseha Ho hlahloba likamano lipakeng tsa thepa ea mochini le ea kutlo le boiketlo ba tactile Tlhahlobo ea khatello ea maikutlo, litekanyo tsa KES-FB, phanele ea litsebi tsa kutlo
Khethollo ea Lintho tsa Bohlokoa ka ho Fetisisa tse Susumetsang Matšeliso a Lesela la Tactile Ho Sebelisa Tlhahlobo ea Regression Ho tsebahatsa thepa ea bohlokoa ea kutlo le ea mochini e susumetsang boiketlo Tlhahlobo ea khatello ea mohato ka mohato, Khokahano ea database

Ha ke khetha lesela la sutu ea boea bo mabothobotho, ke hlokomela kamoo limaraka tse holimo li ikutloang li le bonolo ebile li hloekisitsoe haholoanyane. Phapang ena e bonolo e ntlafatsa mokhoa oa ho apara ka kakaretso, e leng se etsang hore ho be molemo ho tsetela bakeng sa liketsahalo tse khethehileng.

Durability Ho Feta Likereiti Tse Fapaneng

Ho tšoarella ho fapana haholo ho latela limaraka tsa boea. Leha limaraka tse holimo joalo ka Super 180s li ipabola ka bonolo, li kanna tsa hloka botsitso ba limaraka tse tlase. Mohlala, boea ba Super 100s bo fana ka botsitso ba nako e telele le boiketlo, bo etsa hore bo lokele ho sebelisoa khafetsa. Lintlha tsa papiso li totobatsa liphapang tsena:

Mofuta oa Fiber Khanyetso ea Wrinkle Durability (Ho Kobeha) Matla a tšepe Abrasion Resistance
Boea ba Merino Phahameng Phahameng E itekanetseng Tlase
K'hothone Tlase E itekanetseng Phahameng Phahameng
Polyester E itekanetseng Phahameng Phahameng E itekanetseng

Hangata ke khothaletsa Super 120s kapa Super 140s bakeng sa ba batlang tekano lipakeng tsa bophelo bo bolelele le mabothobotho. Limaraka tsena li mamella ho senyeha le ho taboha ha li ntse li boloka ponahalo e bentšitsoeng.

Ho leka-lekanya Mabotho le Boits'ebetso ho Khetho ea Boea

Ho khetha mokhahlelo o nepahetseng oa boea ho kenyelletsaho leka-lekanya boleng, litšenyehelo, le ts'ebetso. Limaraka tse holimo, leha e le tsa maemo a holimo, li kanna tsa se lumellane le mokhoa o mong le o mong oa bophelo. Litšobotsi tsa tlhaho tsa boea, joalo ka ho kenya letsoho le ho koala mongobo, li etsa hore e be khetho e sebetsang le e mabothobotho. Lintlha tsa bohlokoa li kenyelletsa:

  • Merino wool e fana ka mofuthu le ho tšoarella empa e tla ka theko e phahameng.
  • Metsoako e nang le acrylic e matlafatsa nako e telele le ho fokotsa litlhoko tsa tlhokomelo.
  • Boea bo phahameng ba boea bo ntlafatsa bonolo le thepa ea mocheso.

Bakeng sa moaparo oa letsatsi le letsatsi, ke fumana hore masela a mefuta ea Super 100s ho Super 140s a leka-lekana hantle. Ba fana ka bokhabane ba lesela la sutu ea boea bo mabothobotho ntle le ho sekisetsa ho sebetsa kapa litšenyehelo.

Ho Khetha Mophato o Nepahetseng oa Boea

Ho Khetha Mophato o Nepahetseng oa Boea

Malebela a ho Lekola Lihlahisoa tsa Boea

Nengho lekola lihlahisoa tsa boea, Ke tsepamisa maikutlo linthong tse tharo tsa bohlokoa: boleng ba fiber, ho fumana, le tšebeliso e reriloeng. Boleng ba fiber bo etsa qeto ea ho ba bonolo, ho tšoarella, le maikutlo a akaretsang a lesela. Ke lula ke hlahloba boemo ba Super number, kaha bo bonahatsa ka ho toba bokhabane ba boea. Mohlala, boea ba Super 100s bo fana ka botsitso le boiketlo, ha boea ba Super 180s bo fana ka bonolo bo ke keng ba lekanngoa bakeng sa liketsahalo tse khethehileng.

Ho fumana chelete ho bohlokoa ka ho lekana. Ke etelletsa pele boea bo tsoang ka mokhoa o nepahetseng, joalo ka Merino, bo tsamaellanang le tlhokahalo e ntseng e hola ea thepa e tšoarellang. Patlisiso ea morao-rao ea 'maraka e bonts'a hore 73% ea batho ba lilemo tse sekete ba ikemiselitse ho lefa ho feta bakeng sa lihlahisoa tse ntle tsa tikoloho. Mokhoa ona o totobatsa bohlokoa ba ho khetha boea bo mabothobotho le bo ikarabellang tikolohong.

Qetellong, ke nahana ka tšebeliso e reretsoeng ea lesela. Thepa ea boea ea hypoallergenic e etsa hore e be khetho e ntle haholo bakeng sa batho ba nang le letlalo le bobebe kapa ba kulisoang ke lintho tse itseng. Ha ho bapisoa le k'hothone, boea bo fokotsa menyetla ea mathata a phefumoloho, e leng se etsang hore e be khetho e ntle bakeng sa ho apara letsatsi le leng le le leng.

Ho Bapisa Mephato le Litlhoko tsa Hao le Mokhoa oa Bophelo

Ho khetha sehlopha se nepahetseng sa boea ho itšetlehile ka mokhoa oa hau oa bophelo le lintho tseo u li ratang. Kamehla ke khothaletsa ho qala ka tlhahlobo ea mesebetsi ea hau ea letsatsi le letsatsi le litlhoko tsa liaparo. Ka mohlala, haeba u hloka sutu bakeng sa liaparo tsa ofisi khafetsa, boea ba Super 100 kapa Super 120s bo fana ka tekanyo e phethahetseng ea nako e telele le matšeliso. Limaraka tsena li mamella tšebeliso ea kamehla ha li ntse li boloka ponahalo e bentšitsoeng.

Bakeng sa ba batlang mabothobothoboea bo sutu leselabakeng sa liketsahalo tse ikhethang, limaraka tse holimo joalo ka Super 150s kapa Super 180s li fana ka bonolo le bokhabane bo ke keng ba lekanngoa. Masela ana a khahleha ka bokhabane 'me a ikutloa a se na boima, a etsa hore e be a loketseng bakeng sa liketsahalo tse tloaelehileng. Leha ho le joalo, li ka 'na tsa se ke tsa tšoarella joaloka limaraka tse tlaase, kahoo ke li behella hore li sebelisoe hangata.

Mekhoa ea boitsebiso ba bareki e senola hore boea bo botle, bo kang Merino, bo nkoa e le ba bohlokoa haholo ka lebaka la bonolo le bokhabane ba bona. Boea ba boemo bo mahareng bo fana ka mefuta e mengata, ha boea bo mahoashe bo ipabola ka ho tšoarella ha mesebetsi e boima. Ho utloisisa liphapang tsena ho nthusa ho bapisa sehlopha se nepahetseng le litlhoko tsa ka tse khethehileng.

Ho Utloisisa Litšenyehelo-Molemo oa Likereiti tse Phahameng

Hangata masela a boea ba boleng bo phahameng a tla le theko ea theko e phahameng, empa melemo e ka lokafatsa litšenyehelo. Boea bo botle, joalo ka Super 180s kapa Super 200s, bo laela litheko tse phahameng ka lebaka la bonolo ba bona bo holimo le bokhabane ba bona. Liphuputso li tiisa hore bophara ba faeba bo susumetsa haholo litheko tsa boea, ka likhoele tse ntle tse tlisang litheko tse betere tsa 'maraka.

Leha ho le joalo, kamehla ke lekanya litšenyehelo khahlanong le tšebeliso e reriloeng. Bakeng sa moaparo oa letsatsi le letsatsi, ke fumana hore boea ba Super 100s ho Super 140s bo fana ka boleng bo holimo. Limaraka tsena li fana ka tekanyo ea boiketlo le ts'ebetso ntle le ho senya banka. Ka lehlakoreng le leng, ho tsetela lithutong tse phahameng hoa utloahala bakeng sa liketsahalo tse khethehileng kapa ha u theha sekhechana sa polelo.

Litlhahlobo tsa lichelete li boetse li totobatsa kamano pakeng tsa bophara ba fiber le theko. Ka mohlala, lipatlisiso tsa Erasmus le Delport (1987) le Nolan et al. (2013) e tiisa hore boea bo botle bo bohlokoa haholo. Kutloisiso ena e nthusa ho etsa liqeto tse nang le tsebo ha ke khetha masela, ho netefatsa hore ke fumana boleng bo botle ka ho fetisisa bakeng sa tekanyetso ea ka.


Ho utloisisa boemo ba boea ho bohlokoa bakeng sa ho etsa liqeto tse nang le tsebo ha u reka masela. Sistimi ea Super 100s to Super 200s e susumetsa ka kotloloho maikutlo, boleng le mabothobotho a boea. Kamehla ke khothaletsa ho nahana ka litlhoko le likhetho tsa motho ka mong ho khetha lesela le phethahetseng la boea bo mabothobotho bakeng sa ketsahalo efe kapa efe.

LBH

"Super" e bolela eng tabeng ea ho hlopha boea?

Letšoao la "Super" le bontša botle ba likhoele tsa boea. Linomoro tse holimo, joalo ka Super 150s, li bolela likhoele tse ntle, tse hlahisang masela a bonolo le a majabajaba.

Na boea ba boemo bo holimo bo lula bo le betere?

Eseng hakaalo. Limaraka tse holimo, joalo ka Super 180s, li fana ka bonolo le bokhabane, empa li ka haelloa ke nako e telele. Bakeng sa moaparo oa letsatsi le letsatsi, ke khothaletsa Super 100s ho Super 140s bakeng sa ho leka-lekana.

Nka tseba joang masela a 'nete a boea bo mabothobotho?

Lekola litifikeiti tse kang Woolmark kapa lileibole tse hlakisang boemo ba Super. Ke boetse ke batla mefuta e nang le botumo bo botle 'me ke hlahloba sebopeho sa lesela le boleng ba ho loha.


Nako ea poso: Phup-09-2025