Okokuqala, Makhe ndikubuze umbuzo: ingaba isuti inamacandelo amabini: ilaphu kunye nezincedisi?
Hayi, impendulo ayilunganga.Isuti yenziwe ngamacandelo amathathu: ilaphu, izincedisi kunye nomgca.
Ilaphu kunye nezixhobo zibaluleke kakhulu, kodwa umgangatho we-suit uxhomekeke kwi-lining, kuba idibanisa izinto ezimbini ezihlukeneyo ze-ductile, iingubo kunye nezixhobo.
Indlela enexabiso eliphantsi, efanelekileyo kwimpahla yengubo kukusebenzisa i-adhesive lining, nayo yonke into eyenziwa ngesandla, kodwa ukusebenzisa isuti ye-adhesive lining isenokuba ngaphantsi kweeyuan ezingama-2000 oku kulandelayo, inqanaba eliphantsi lesuti yokuncamathelisa yelaphu ekuhambeni kwexesha, uya kufumanisa ukuba isuti yamalaphu kunye nezincedisi azisayi kuphinda zilingane, zitsalelana kwelinye icala, kubonakala ngathi kukwahlulwa komdlalo.
I-lining efanelekileyo, umzekelo, iisuti zeshishini ezenziwe ngu-YUNAI kufuneka zenziwe ngoboya, ilinen kunye ne-horse mane. Ngamafutshane, izinto zendalo ziyafuneka. Injongo kukunceda ilaphu lesuti kunye nezincedisi ukuba zijikeleze ukuya kumda olinganiselweyo ngelixa zibanceda ukuseta kwakhona.
Inkalo yesibini: nangona umgangatho wezinto ezisetyenzisiweyo uphenjelelwa zizinto ezininzi, ixabiso lelaphu ngoku lixhomekeke ikakhulu kwindawo yemvelaphi. Ixabiso lamalaphu asekhaya ahluke kakhulu kulawo asuka kumazwe angaphandle, asuka eItali naseBritani.
Amalaphu esuti aphezulu ehlabathi aquka: Ermenegildo Zegna , LORO PIANA , VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO ,REDA , CERRUTI 1881 , YUNAI, isigebenga soboya base-Italiyane; ikwaluphawu lomgangatho woboya. UCHARLES CLAYTON, ezine ezilandelayo zezona zindala zempahla zexabiso eBritani. Iimpawu eziphezulu zelaphu lehempe yiBritane THOMAS MASON, Switzerland Alumo, Italy MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO njalo njalo.Ivenkile yesiko ineendidi ezimbalwa zeesuti kunye namalaphu ehempe ngokwesiseko yivenkile yesiko lobuchwephesha.
Ngokwesiqhelo, ezi fektri zineemfuno ezingqongqo kwimigangatho yobuchwephesha yeevenkile zesiko. Kuphela xa befikelela kwimigangatho ehambelanayo baya kugunyaza ukusetyenziswa kweempahla zabo kunye neempawu zorhwebo.Ukongezelela, kungakhathaliseki ukuba usebenzisa iingubo zasekhaya okanye ezithunyelwa ngaphandle, izithako ziyiboya ngokusisiseko, ngokuqinisekileyo, kuya kubakho ezinye izithako, ezifana ne-cashmere, kodwa iingubo eziphezulu zenziwe ngamalaphu endalo kunezixhobo zokwenziwa, kodwa awukwazi ukwenza iimfuno ezingqongqo kwiimpahla zasekhaya.
1. Ilaphu loboya eligqwethekileyo
Ilaphu loboya libhekisa kwilaphu elenziwe ngoboya okanye uboya kunye nepolyester, i-viscose, i-acrylic, njl.
Uboya obugqwethekileyo lilaphu lempahla ekumgangatho ophezulu elenziwe ngoboya begusha obusulungekileyo nobucocekileyo, obunokuxutywa kunye nomlinganiselo othile woboya bentsinga yekhemikhali okanye olunye uhlobo losinga lwendalo, kwaye lucutshungulwe ngesixhobo sokukama, ukukama, ukuyila, ukusonta, ukuluka, ukudaya kunye nokugqiba amaxesha amaninzi.
Inokuguquguquka okuhle kokuba indawo yeenwele zesilwanyana ibe neyodwa, isondo ethambileyo, isondo esahlukileyo kunye ne-crape ukumelana nokwabelana ngesondo, xa ifunxa ukufuma okanye umbilo wexhama ukuze uhlale ushushu ngesondo.
Impahla esele yenziwe ngelaphu elicikizekileyo loboya ihlala ixesha elide kwaye ayiyi kuphazamiseka ixesha elide. Zizolile ngakumbi ngenxa yokungabikho kwe-aurora. Zigudileyo kwaye zigudileyo kwimbonakalo, zibukeka kakuhle, zibukhali kwaye zicolile, zigcwele ukunxibelelana, iklasikhi ngokwesitayile, zithambile kwaye zendalo ngokukhazimla njalo njalo.
Okubizwa ngokuba kubi kakhulu kunye noboya, wazama ukuchaza, ukusuka kwi-Angle ezimbini enye ingaphezulu kwefayibha, enye ikukuluka, i-fiber spinning yi-32 nangaphezulu kwe-40, ubale i-fiber ye-fiber egudileyo, i-joints encinci, i-high density yendalo, ukuxhathisa okulungileyo kwe-abrasion, induduzo enhle, enye i-weave, ilaphu elibi kakhulu elilukiweyo ngumatshini we-textile ocolekileyo, ilaphu elicikizekileyo, ukuthintela, idigri edibeneyo ye-textile, i-laphu edibeneyo Umahluko wokumelana nokunxiba kwendalo, ukuxinana akulunganga.
Amalaphu oboya obusulungekileyo awonakele kakhulu abhityileyo, anomphezulu ogudileyo kunye nemigca ecacileyo.
Umzimba ulungile, uthambile kwaye u-elastic.
Bamba izinto emva kokukhulula, ngokusisiseko akukho ukugoqa, nokuba kukho i-crease encinci inokunyamalala ngexesha elifutshane kakhulu.
Ukuchongwa kwelaphu loboya obusulungekileyo:
Ilaphu loboya elicocekileyo elinombala othambileyo wendalo kunye nefuthe elihle lobushushu lukhetho lokuqala lokwenza iisuti zomgangatho ophezulu kunye needyasi.
Kodwa ngoku ngakumbi nangakumbi amalaphu afana noboya, njengokuphuculwa kweteknoloji ye-textile, ifikelele kwinqanaba labathengi abaninzi ekunzima ukuyichonga, kodwa umbala, ukufudumala, ukuvakalelwa njalo njalo kungaphantsi kwempahla yoboya ecocekileyo.
Oku kulandelayo kwazisa iindlela ezininzi zokuchonga ilaphu loboya obusulungekileyo, kwireferensi yakho ekukhetheni iimpahla kunye nomgubo.
Okokuqala, bamba.
Amalaphu oboya obusulungekileyo ahlala eziva egudileyo, amalaphu oboya amade kunye nokuvakala okugudileyo, ukuntyiloza kweenwele ezibuyela umva.Kwaye kudityaniswe okanye ifayibha yemichiza esulungekileyo, enye ithambile kakhulu, enye ithambile kwaye ikhululekile, kunye nemvakalelo encangathi.
Okwesibini, jonga umbala.
Umbala welaphu loboya obusulungekileyo uthambile kwaye wendalo, ugqamile kwaye awunaxesha.Ngokwahlukileyo, udityaniswe okanye usulungekile umphezulu wefiber yekhemikhali, okanye i-luster imnyama, okanye inengqondo yokukhanya.
Okwesithathu, jonga ukuqina.
Bamba ilaphu ngokuqinileyo ngesandla, uze uyikhulule ngoko nangoko ukuze ubone indlela ilaphu elastiki is.Ilaphu loboya obucocekileyo rebound rate iphezulu, inokubuyisela ngokukhawuleza kwimo yayo yangaphambili, kwaye idibanise okanye imveliso yemichiza yefayibha, ukuxhathisa ukushwabana kubi, uninzi lwamanqaku abonakalayo abonakalayo, okanye ukuchacha kade.
Isine. Ukuchongwa kokutsha.
Thatha inqwaba yomsonto, sebenzisa umlilo, ifayibha yoboya obusulungekileyo ivumba njengeenwele ezivuthayo, ifayibha yeekhemikhali ivumba njengeplastiki evuthayo. Ukuqina kwamasuntswana emva kokutsha, ngakumbi amacandelo efiber yekhemikhali akhona.
1.Ukuchongwa kweengcambu enye.
Iinwele phantsi kwemakroskopu ukubona zonke izilwanyana isikali, ukuba ngaba amalaphu iinwele elide nje ukuthatha iinwele ezifana ngasentla wabeka amaxesha ambalwa uya kuhamba phezulu okanye ezantsi (ukuze kakuhle obu buchule kungathatha inwele ukusuka ulingelo lokuqala), ukuba ilaphu eqhelekileyo, ukukhupha umsonto weengcambu, unqumle i-2 cm yemihlathi emibini ibe ngumcu omnye phantsi kwesandla uthambise ezine okanye ezintlanu, bebengayi kuhamba.
2. Ilaphu elixutywe ngoboya kunye nepolyester
Ilaphu elidityanisiweyo loboya, elizezi, i-cashmere, i-polyester, i-spandex, iinwele zomvundla kunye nezinye iintsinga kunye noboya obuxubene nelaphu elilaphu elixutywe noboya. Uboya kunye ne-polyester edibeneyo yelaphu, phantsi kwelanga, umphezulu unendawo ekhanyayo, ilaphu li-crisp kwaye liqinile, u-elasticity olungileyo, ubambe ilaphu likhululekile, phantse akukho mibimbi.
Umkhombandlela we-warp, i-warp, ubuninzi be-warp
— Umkhombandlela wobude belaphu;
Imisonto esecaleni ibizwa ngokuba yi-warp yarn;
Inani leentambo ezilungiselelwe ngaphakathi kwe-intshi ye-1 yi-warp density;
Umkhombandlela weWeft, ukuzaliswa kunye nokuzaliswa koxinzelelo
— Umkhombandlela wobubanzi belaphu;
Umsonto ubizwa ngokuba yiweft, kwaye inani lemisonto phakathi kwe-intshi yi-weft density.
Ukuxinana
- Isetyenziselwa ukumela inani lemisonto ngobude beyunithi yelaphu le-shuttle, ngokubanzi inani lemisonto ngaphakathi kwe-intshi eyi-1 okanye i-10 yeesentimitha. Imigangatho yesizwe yaseTshayina imisela ukuba inani lemisonto phakathi kweesentimitha ezili-10 lisetyenziselwa ukumela ukuxinana, kodwa amashishini amalaphu asasebenzisa inani lemisonto phakathi kwe-intshi e-1 ukumela ubuninzi.
Umzekelo, okubonwa ngokuqhelekileyo "45×45/108×58" kubhekiselele kwimisonto ye-weft kunye ne-warp ene-108 kunye ne-58 ngokulandelelana.
Ububanzi
- Ububanzi obusebenzayo bendwangu buvame ukubonakaliswa ngeesentimitha okanye iisentimitha. Eziqhelekileyo ziyi-36 intshi, i-44 intshi, i-56-60 intshi, njl, ezibizwa ngokuba zincinci, eziphakathi kunye nobubanzi, ngokulandelanayo. Amalaphu aphezulu kuno-intshizi ezingama-60 abanzi, adla ngokubizwa ngokuba lilaphu elibanzi.
Ububanzi buphawulwe ngokubanzi emva koxinaniso. Umzekelo, ukuba ilaphu elikhankanywe kwi: 3 yongezwa kunye nobubanzi, iya kubonakaliswa njenge "45×45/108×58/60" ", okt ububanzi bungama-intshi angama-60.
Ubunzima
- Ubunzima begram yelaphu ngokuqhelekileyo yigram yobunzima belaphu kwiimitha ezikwere. Ubunzima begram luphawu olubalulekileyo lobugcisa beempahla ezinithiweyo, kwaye ubunzima begram ngokuqhelekileyo buthathwa njengesalathisi esibalulekileyo sobugcisa beempahla zoboya.
Ubunzima begram ye-denim ngokuqhelekileyo buchazwa njenge "OZ", oko kukuthi, inani lee-ounces zobunzima belaphu kwi-square yadi, njengee-ounces ezi-7, ii-ounces ezili-12 ze-denim, njl.
Umsonto odayiwe
EJapan, ibizwa ngokuba "ilaphu elidayiweyo", elibhekisa kwinkqubo yokudaya umsonto okanye umsonto kwaye uthunge ilaphu ngemisonto enemibala. Olu hlobo lwelaphu lubizwa ngokuba "yilaphu elidaywe ngomsonto". Imizi-mveliso evelisa ilaphu elidaywe ngemisonto ngokuqhelekileyo ibizwa ngokuba yimizi-mveliso yokudaya neyokuluka, njengedenim, yaye amalaphu ehempe amaninzi adayiweyo.
3. Uboya kunye nelaphu elidityanisiweyo leviscose
Ukukhanya kumfiliba.
Imvakalelo embi kakhulu ibuthathaka, ngelixa uboya beboya bukhululekile.
Olu hlobo lwelaphu alunalastiki kwaye lucwebile kunoboya obusulungekileyo kunye ne-polyester yoboya, ilaphu elidityanisiweyo loboya.Ukuba umxholo we-viscose uphezulu, ilaphu kulula ukusonga.
Iikhemikhali ezisulungekileyo zoboya obufana nelaphu lemveli le-viscose, ifayibha yoboya eyenziweyo njengemathiriyeli ekrwada yelaphu elifana noboya, ukubengezela kokukhanya, ukuziva okuthambileyo, ukunqongophala kwemvakalelo epholileyo. Kuba ukunwebeka kumbi kakhulu, kubonakala kukhaphukhaphu ngokulula, kwaye akukho lula ukucima. Yeyona ndlela isebenzayo yokuchonga ilaphu le-viscose ukuba ukomelela komsonto okhutshwe elaphuni kufana nelaphu loboya ngokucacileyo xa loma liyancipha. iqinisa kwaye ijiye emva kokufunxwa.Ngenkqubela phambili yenzululwazi kunye nethekhnoloji, ukulinganisa iimveliso zoboya ngombala, ukuziva, ukuqina kuye kwaba njalo.
Iintlobo eziphambili:
Inwele zomvundla
Ngokubanzi, umlinganiselo othile woboya bomvundla kunye noboya buyadityaniswa kwaye lulukiwe. Iimpawu zejezi yomvundla zikwimicu ecolekileyo, imtyibilizi kwaye ivakale njenge-waxy, i-lap ethambileyo kunye ne-fluffy ebusweni, kunye nokuguquguquka okuhle. Kukhululekile kwaye kuyindalo ukunxiba, kwaye i-nap kwindawo ephakathi kulula ukuwa.
Ukuba inkqubo yokuqala ukwenza ijezi kwaye ukudaya (oko kukuthi ukuluka kunye nokudaya) yamkelwe, umbala kunye nokukhazimla kuya kuba nyulu ngakumbi kwaye kukhazimle, kunye nelatisi ekhethekileyo, ilungele ngokukhethekileyo iimpahla zangaphandle zabasetyhini abancinci.
Iinwele zemichiza yefiber
Into eqhelekileyo yeengubo kukukhanya kwayo.
Yiba njengehempe ye-acrylic, udibanise umsonto omninzi we-acrylic, ubume bayo boboya buziva bunamandla, umbala kunye nokukhazimla, umgangatho wezinto eziphathekayo kukukhanya okuthambileyo okuthambileyo, izinga lokubuyisela ukufuma ngu-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla okuqhawula i-fiber angaphezulu kunoboya boboya, angeke avuthe, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kubuyiselwe izinga lingaphantsi kunoboya, gcina uboya obufudumeleyo, ukufudumala kwesondo esincinci kubantwana, i-wool ilula, i-sweat, i-sweat, i-sweat yexabiso elincinci kubantwana. impahla.
Kutshanje, imakethi yamazwe ngamazwe ukuya kwi-acrylic, i-polyamide ifayibha edityanisiweyo ngomsonto, i-acrylic elungisiweyo yokuxelisa umsonto we-mohair, i-sweaters yayo inokuthelekiswa neenwele zendalo zomvundla, iimpahla ze-mohair.
Iinwele zezilwanyana ezixutywe nemicu yemichiza
"Ineempawu ezihambelanayo" zeenwele ezahlukeneyo zezilwanyana kunye nemicu yeekhemikhali, kwaye inkangeleko yayo inoboya, amandla okwandisa aphuculwe, kwaye ixabiso lejezi liyancitshiswa. Yimveliso elungileyo kwaye engabizi.
Kodwa kwijezi edibeneyo, kukho ingxaki yokuba isiphumo sokudaya asifanelekanga ngenxa yeendlela ezahlukeneyo zokudaya kunye namandla okufunxa umbala weentlobo ezahlukeneyo zemicu.
4. Imathiriyeli efana noboya obungeyomfuneko
Abantu baseBritani baba ngabokuqala ukufunda ngokutsalwa kweprotheyini kwiglu yezilwanyana ukwenza imicu yeprotini eyenziweyo.
Ngowe-1935, abanye abantu baseItali bazama ukukhupha isonka samasi ebisini ukuze benze uboya obungeyomfuneko.
Ukususela ngoko, amanye amazwe aye aphumelela ekwenzeni imicu eyenziwe ngeprotini yeembotyi zesoya namandongomane.
Ngenxa yeengxaki zokusetyenziswa kunye neendleko zokwenziwa kweentsinga ezinjalo, imveliso incinci.
I-YUNAI imfiliba, ukungabikho kwemvakalelo ekrwada, ngenxa yokunganyangeki kakuhle, kulula kakhulu ukubonakala zou Fold, kwaye akukho lula ukunyamalala.
Kukho iindidi ezimbini zeentsinga ezenziwe ngumntu: ifayibha ehlaziyiweyo kunye nefayibha yemichiza. Ifayibha ehlaziyiweyo yifiber ye-viscose eyenziwe ngomthi kunye nefiber yengca ngokulungiswa kweekhemikhali.
Ifayibha yekhemikhali yifiber eyenziwe ngepetroleum, igesi yendalo, amalahle kunye neemveliso zolimo.
Ngokwemilo kunye nokusetyenziswa kweentsinga ezenziwe ngumntu, kukho iindidi ezintathu: i-rayon, i-rayon kunye noboya.
Iintlobo ezibalulekileyo zinefiber viscose, i-acetate fiber, i-copper ammonia fiber njalo njalo.
Ifayibha ehlaziyiweyo inokwahlulwa ibe yifiber eselulosi ehlaziyiweyo, ifayibha ye-cellulose ester, ifayibha yeprotheyini kunye nezinye ifayibha zepolymer zendalo.
Iimpawu zayo xa kuthelekiswa nemicu yeekhemikhali, i-fibers staple.
Ilaphu lefiber eyenziwe ngumntu ngokusisiseko kukwalatha kwifilament ye-viscose kunye nelaphu lefiber esisiseko, oko kukuthi umqhaphu owenziwe ngumntu abantu abawuqhelileyo, irayon njl.njl.
Ukongeza, ikwabandakanya inxalenye yelaphu lefayibha etyebileyo kunye nelaphu lefayibha yobude obuphakathi phakathi kwefilament kunye nestaple.
Ke ngoko, iipropathi zeempahla zefiber yomntu zimiselwa ikakhulu ziipropathi zefiber viscose.
Amalaphu eRayon kunye ne-rayon athambileyo xa ephathwa, ayaphefumla kwaye akhululekile ukunxiba, kwaye anemibala eqaqambileyo.
Ilaphu lefayibha eyenziwe ngumntu ine-hygroscopicity elungileyo, kwaye i-hygroscopicity iyona nto igqwesileyo kwi-chemical fiber.Kodwa amandla ayo amanzi aphantsi kakhulu, malunga ne-50% yamandla omileyo kuphela, kwaye izinga lokuncipha kwelaphu likhulu, ngoko ke kufuneka linciphe kwangaphambili ngaphambi kokuba ukusika kube ngcono.
Ilaphu le-viscose eliqhelekileyo lineempawu zokutsalwa kakuhle, ukungaqini kakuhle, ukomelela kunye nokumelana nemibimbi, ngoko ke isambatho saso sinokugcinwa kobume obuhlwempuzekileyo kwaye sithande ukushwabana.
Ilaphu lefayibha yeViscose ineasidi elungileyo kunye nokuxhathisa kwealkali, ukumelana nokukhanya kwelanga kunye nokunye ukumelana namachiza.
5.Imichiza esulungekileyo yefayibha imathiriyeli efana noboya
Ngokubanzi, ifayibha yokwenziwa isetyenziswa njengeyona nto iphambili, ifayibha eyenziweyo okanye isilika enemibala njengomsonto oncedisayo, kwaye enye inoveli ifayibha yokwenziwa isetyenziswa njengeyona nto iphambili, enesakhiwo esifanelekileyo selaphu. Olu hlobo lwelaphu luneentlobo ezimbini ze-bamboo-like, isitayile sendalo.
Inophawu lwesitayile sendalo sefiber yendalo.
Ilaphu linemibala eqaqambileyo, ilungile kwi-luster, i-crisp kunye ne-elastic, ilungele uluntu.
I-Chemical fiber wool, uphawu oluqhelekileyo lwempahla lulula.
Yiba njengehempe ye-acrylic, udibanise umsonto omninzi we-acrylic, ubume bayo boboya buziva bunamandla, umbala kunye nokukhazimla, umgangatho wezinto eziphathekayo kukukhanya okuthambileyo okuthambileyo, izinga lokubuyisela ukufuma ngu-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla okuqhawula i-fiber angaphezulu kunoboya boboya, angeke avuthe, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kubuyiselwe izinga lingaphantsi kunoboya, gcina uboya obufudumeleyo, ukufudumala kwesondo esincinci kubantwana, i-wool ilula, i-sweat, i-sweat, i-sweat yexabiso elincinci kubantwana. impahla.
Kutshanje, imakethi yamazwe ngamazwe ukuya kwi-acrylic, i-poly-amide fiber blended larn, i-acrylic modified acrylic mitation mitation yarn mohair, yayo ibe yihempe inokuthelekiswa neenwele zendalo zomvundla, iimpahla zemohair.
Iinwele zezilwanyana kunye noboya obudityanisiweyo bemichiza, kunye neenwele ezahlukeneyo zezilwanyana kunye nefayibha yekhemikhali "iimpawu ezihambelanayo", inkangeleko yayo inemvakalelo yoboya, amandla obude ayaphuculwa, ukunciphisa iindleko zejezi, zixabiso eliphantsi kunye neemveliso ezintle.
Kodwa kwijezi edityanisiweyo, kukho ingxaki yokuba iintlobo ezahlukeneyo zeentsinga zinokudaya okwahlukileyo kunye namandla okufunxa umbala, nto leyo ebangela ukuba isiphumo sokudaya singafanelekanga.
Ukwahlula phakathi kwemathiriyeli yoboya obufana nefayibha kunye nelaphu loboya elisulungekileyo:
Ilaphu elifana noboya lenziwe ubukhulu becala ngosinga lwekhemikhali, kwaye ifayibha yeviscose ingaphezulu, njengepolyester/viscose medium medium long wool, ipolyester esulungekileyo kunye nezinye iimveliso ezifana noboya.
Okokuqala, iglosi yahlukile.
Ilaphu loboya elisulungekileyo lithambile kwaye liyindalo, linombala ongemhle kakhulu. Ilaphu loboya lokulingisa ifayibha zekhemikhali lityebile ngombala kwaye liqaqambile. Ukuba uqwalasela ngenyameko phantsi kwelanga, ngokufuthi uya kubona iindawo eziqaqambileyo nezimenyezelayo.
Eli nqaku lokuxelisa uboya obupholileyo bufane nelaphu loboya nalo linokungacaciswa.
Okwesibini, ukuziva kunye nokunwebeka kwahlukile.
Amalaphu oboya asulungekileyo aziva ethambile, etyhutyhe kancinci, ithambo lomzimba, eshwabene kancinane kodwa engaqinanga, ethambile kodwa engaphindi athe tye;
Ngelixa i-polyester, i-wool-efana nenkangeleko, kodwa ivakale ithambile kwaye igudileyo, akukho thambo lomzimba, ishwabene ngakumbi, iphinda ibuyele kancinci.
Okwesithathu, tshisa isilika emva kokuzoba.
Umsonto welaphu loboya obusulungekileyo unokubonwa emva kokungalingani kwefayibha yoboya, ubude obahlukeneyo, i-curl yendalo, kunye ne-viscose ilinganisa ubude belaphu loboya, ubukhulu be-uniform obuhambelanayo.
Emva kokutsha, emva kokuba umlilo uvutha ngokukhawuleza, ushiya umlilo uqhubeka uvutha, iinwele zihamba kunye nevumba, uthuthu, i-cube emnyama e-crispy, i-twist ebizwa ngokuba ngumgubo wamalaphu ahlambulukileyo oboya, kwaye kufuphi nomlilo ovuthayo, uvutha ngokukhawuleza, idangatye elityheli, ukutshisa i-clamp, uthuthu kunye nokulula okuphaphazelayo ukukhanya okungwevu, okumhlophe kunye nokushiya i-lumpvi ye-polysester kunzima ukuyityumza.
Ikwashiya iqhuma elimnyama emva kokutshiswa.
Ukususela kwisibini ukuya kwisibini okanye ngaphezulu sezithako okanye ilaphu elidityanisiweyo elidityanisiweyo: uboya/iviscose, uboya/ipolyester, uboya/isilika, uboya/iviscose/spandex, njalo njalo, ayifuni nje ukubamba ngokuqinileyo iintlobo ngeentlobo zefayibha morphology kunye neempawu, kunye nendlela yokusebenzisa ukuchongwa kwefayibha ezininzi, ukusuka ekujongeni kwakhona, ukutshisa ukutshisa, ukutshisa ukutshisa kunokuvavanya ngokukhuselekileyo emva kokuvavanya.
6.Uboya obu Mercerized
Imathiriyeli yoboya beMercerizing yimathiriyeli yoboya eqhelekileyo emva konyango lwekhemikhali kunye nonyango ngokwasemzimbeni, ukutshatyalaliswa kwesikali sosinga soboya, kwaye ngearhente yovavanyo lwekhemikhali, yenza uboya bube mpuluswa, bubengezele, bushwabane xa buhlanjwa, bulungele iilokhwe zomtshato.
Uboya be-Mercerizing kunyango lweemveliso zoboya kwinkqubo ye-mercerizing yokudaya uboya kunye nokugqiba.
Uboya kufuneka buhlanjululwe yi-Basolan DC okanye bunyangwe ngeprotease ukutshabalalisa isikali somphezulu woboya kunye nokunciphisa umahluko phakathi komlinganiso wokukhuhlana ngexesha lokuhamba phambili kunye nokubuyela umva koboya. Emva konyango, ukukhazimla koboya kuyenyuka, okuqhelekileyo kwaziwa njengoboya bemercerized.
Uboya obuyi Mercerized bunokulukwa ngoboya obusulungekileyo okanye budityaniswe.
Iimpawu eziphambili zi-anti-shrinkage, umatshini - uhlambe, u-anti-pilling.
Itekhnoloji yoboya obuyiMercerized yaqala phakathi kwiminyaka yoo-1990, bubuchwephesha obutsha bokudaya kunye nokugqiba obuphuhliswe ngokwesiseko seklorini yemveli kunye nokuthintela ubuchwephesha bokuthintela uboya.
Ilaphu loboya eliphathwayo linemvakalelo ye cashmere kunye ne silky luster.
Ngenxa yezi mpawu, iimveliso zoboya be-mercerizing zakhawuleza zaduma.
Ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, uboya be-mercerized buthandwa kakhulu, isabelo semarike sigqithise isixa soboya obuqhelekileyo.
Kukho iikhonsepthi ezahlukeneyo zoboya bemercerized e-China nakwamanye amazwe ehlabathini. E-China, uboya obuhluthwe iphosphorus bubizwa ngokuba buboya bemercerized, ngelixa uboya begusha bamazwe ngamazwe bugalelwa ngomphunga oshushu, kwaye bunwenwe ngama-30% ~ 50%. Emva koko, emva kokupholiswa ngamanzi abandayo kunye nokumila, uboya begusha obude nobubhityileyo bubizwa ngokuba buboya bemercerized.
7.Uboya
Uboya bubhekiselwa ngokubanzi njengelaphu losinga loboya.
Ifayibha yoboya ziimolekyuli zeprotheyini ezidityanisiweyo, imbonakalo yomaleko okhethekileyo wesakhiwo esiqinileyo sempondo, sigqunywe ngokuqinileyo, isakhiwo seflake sincinci kakhulu, inzuzo yalo kukuthintela ukungcola kwifiber, ngoko ke, iimpahla zoboya azingcoli lula.
Abacoci abomileyo bahlala bedibana neentlobo ezahlukeneyo zamalaphu xa behlamba impahla, kunye nempahla yoboya nayo ixhaphakile.
Isizathu sokuba uboya buvelise ukukhanya okuqaqambileyo:
(1) Umaleko wesikali esineempondo kumphezulu wosinga woboya unxitywe ngokuyinxenye;
(2) Uthuli kunye nobumdaka buhlikihla kancinci kwaye bunamathele kumsele, ukuze umphezulu welaphu ube mpuluswa, kubangele ukuphinda kukhanye rhoqo, okukhokelela kukukhanya okuqaqambileyo.
Iindlela zokususa ukukhanya:
(1) Isonka sinokujijwa sibe ngumgubo size sisasazwe ekukhanyeni, ngentsimbi ibe yintsimbi;
(2) Ukucoca: Gxuma isisombululo se-acetic kunye noxinzelelo lwe-3-5% kunye nobushushu be-50 ℃ imizuzu emi-3-5, uze uhlambulule ngamanzi acacileyo.
Iviniga emhlophe nayo ingasetyenziswa.
(3) Hlamba ngebrashi xa uhlamba.
Ifayibha yifayibha yendalo, sisiphumo sembewu yezityalo, iziqu kunye namagqabi anefayibha ezininzi zeekhemikhali azinamgangatho olungileyo, ijini engaphezulu ye-hydrophilic kwifayibha yomqhaphu, i-hygroscopicity ilungile, inxibe ukufunxa ukubila, ukungena komoya, ukonwaba, kunye ne-hemp kunye nokuphola okupholileyo, ukuthamba, ukungabambeleli kwiimpawu ezisetyenziswa kakhulu kwishishini lempahla, yamkelwe ngumthengi.
Izinto eziluncedo: ithambile kwaye i-elastiki esandleni, ithambile kwaye icwebezelayo yendalo, ikhululekile kwaye intle ukunxiba, imvakalelo yomgangatho ophezulu, ukufunxa kakuhle ukufuma, akukho lula ukuhambisa ubushushu, ukugcinwa kakuhle kobushushu, ukumelana ne-crease, ngakumbi emva kokulungiswa kwengubo kunye ne-ayina ngcono ukubunjwa kwe-pleat kunye nokhuseleko lwemilo yengubo;
Qaphela: Ubushushu bokuhlamba akufuneki bube phezulu kakhulu, musa ukuhlikihla okanye ukujija ukunqanda ukukhanya kwelanga.
Indawo yokucinezela: I-ayina emanzi, uku-ayina izinto zomile ukusuka kwelinye icala.
Ukungalungi: i-alkali - ukumelana, iyancipha, kulula ukushwabana.
8. Ilaphu loboya-polyester
Ilaphu loboya-ipolyester (wool-polyester) : Ilaphu elenziwe ngoboya kunye nepolyester edityanisiweyo yelaphu, olona hlobo luqhelekileyo lwelaphu elixutywe noboya.
Ilaphu elenziwe ngoboya kunye nepolyester edityanisiweyo.
Umlinganiselo oqhelekileyo wokudibanisa i-wool-polyester yi-45∶55, engakwazi ukugcina inzuzo yoboya kuphela, kodwa inika umdlalo opheleleyo kwinzuzo ye-polyester.
Phantse onke amalaphu arhabaxa kunye namagqwirha anodidi oludityanisiweyo oludityanisiweyo lwewulu-polyester.
Phakathi kwazo ilaphu eligqwethekileyo loboya-ipolyester ebhityileyo elineentyatyambo elikwabizwa ngokuba lipholile, elaziwa njengewulu epholileyo ngokwenene, yeyona nto ibonakalisa iimpawu zokudityaniswa koboya bepolyester yenye yelaphu.
Kukho i-warp ephindwe kabini kunye ne-weft, i-warp ephindwe kabini, i-single-ply warp kunye ne-warp enye kunye ne-weft.
Ngokuqhelekileyo nge-50 ~ 70 indoda ephindwe kabini, amalaphu amancinci ane-100 ~ 120 indoda ephindwe kabini.
Ubunzima belaphu bumalunga ne-170 ~ 190 g/m 2.
Xa kuthelekiswa ne-wool tweed, i-wool-polyester encinci i-tweed ilula kwaye ilula, kunye nokubuyiswa kakuhle kwemibimbi, iqinile kwaye igugile, ilula ukuyihlamba, ikhawuleza ukomisa, i-pleat ehlala ixesha elide, izinzileyo ngobukhulu, kodwa ingabi njengoboya.
Ukuba usebenzisa i-polyester elula njengento ekrwada, umphezulu we-silk luster.
Ukuba uboya obukhethekileyo besilwanyana obufana nekheshmere okanye uboya benkamela busetyenziswa kwizinto eziluhlaza zokuxuba, buya kuziva butyibilika kwaye buncangathi.
Umlinganiselo oqhelekileyo wokudibanisa i-wool-polyester yi-45:55, engenakugcina kuphela inzuzo yoboya, kodwa inika umdlalo kwiinzuzo ze-polyester.
Izinto eziluncedo: uboya obudityaniswe nepolyester, ukukhanya kunye nokukhanya kwindalo, ukusebenza kakuhle kokubuyisela imibimbi.
Ihlala ixesha elide, kulula ukuyihlamba kwaye yomile, izinzile ngobukhulu, iqinile kwi-tuck
Amanqaku okuhlamba: cwilisa ngamanzi abandayo imizuzu eyi-15 kuqala, emva koko uhlambe ngesicoci sokwenziwa ngokubanzi, uhlambe ubushushu bolwelo ungadluli ii-degrees ezingama-45, ikhola, i-cuff indawo emdaka ingasebenzisa ibhrashi yoboya ethambileyo ukubrasha ngobunono, emva kokucoca icocekile, inokujija ngobunono, uthenge indawo epholileyo enomoya, ungabi yodwa, ayifanele yomiswe, hleze ngenxa yokuba ivuthiwe ikhuphe ukushwabana.
9.T/R ilaphu
Ngenye yeempawu ze-T / R zendwangu yokwenza ijacket ye-collar yokuma, ijacket ye-lapel kunye nokugqoka okungaqhelekanga kunye nenani elikhulu le-plaid okanye umgca, i-flash okanye i-T / R ye-monochrome.
Ilaphu le-T / R yilaphu elidityanisiweyo le-polyester viscose.I-viscose ye-polyester edibeneyo luhlobo lokudibanisa oluhambelanayo.I-viscose ye-polyester ayikho kuphela umqhaphu, uboya, kunye nephakathi - elide.Ilaphu loboya eliqhelekileyo elibizwa ngokuba "ibhasi esheshayo" ukuhlamba kunye nokunxiba iimpawu ezinamandla.Ukuxubana kwefiber ye-viscose kuphucula ukunyanzeliswa komoya kwendwangu kunye nokuchasana nomngxuma wokunyibilika.I-pilling kunye ne-antistatic phenomena yelaphu yancitshiswa.
Sebenzisa i-65/35 okanye i-67/33 ye-polyester/viscid-blend ratio.Polyester/viscose blend iyafana nepolyester/viscose.Iimpawu zolu hlobo lwelaphu elidityanisiweyo zigudileyo kwaye zicocekile, imibala eqaqambileyo, imilo yoboya eyomeleleyo, ukunwebeka okuhle kwesandla, ukufunxa kakuhle kokufuma;Kodwa isigxina sibi.
Izinto eziluncedo: ziqinile, ziyakwazi ukumelana nemibimbi, ubukhulu obuzinzile, ziyahlambeka kwaye ziyanxitywa.
Inokuphucula ukunyanzeliswa komoya kwelaphu, ukunciphisa iipilisi kunye ne-antistatic phenomenon.
Amanqaku okuhlamba: Umatshini wokuhlamba unokusetyenziswa, musa ukuxubha ngebrashi, ukuze ugweme ukupilisi, ukomisa kwelinye icala.
10.Uxinaniso oluphezulu lweNC
Uxinaniso oluphezulu Ilaphu le-NC luhlobo lwelaphu elidityanisiweyo okanye eliphothiweyo ngepoly-amide (nayiloni) kunye nomsonto womqhaphu.
Imveliso idibanisa izibonelelo zenylon kunye nekotoni.
Ubuchule bokunxiba benayiloni bubeka kwindawo yokuqala phakathi kwemicu yendalo kunye nemicu yekhemikhali. Ukufunxa ukufuma kwenylon kungcono kunokwepolyester, kwaye ukunxitywa kwayo okuthuthuzelayo kunye neempawu zokudaya zingcono kunezo zepolyester. Ke ngoko, ukufunxa ukufuma kunye nokunxiba intuthuzelo yentambo yomqhaphu akuyi kuncitshiswa xa kudityaniswa okanye kudityaniswe nelaphu yomqhaphu.
Inayiloni ine-elastic egqwesileyo. Emva kokudibanisa okanye ukudibanisa kunye nentambo yekotoni, i-elasticity yelaphu iyaphuculwa.
Ukungalungi kwelaphu le-NC kukuba: ngenxa ye-nylon ebandakanyekayo kwi-interweaving okanye ukudibanisa, ukumelana nobushushu kunye nokumelana nokukhanya kwelaphu kubi, nikela ingqalelo ekuhlambeni kunye ne-ayina kwinkqubo yokusetyenziswa ukuhlangabezana neemeko, ukwenzela ukuba ugweme umonakalo.
Iimpawu zayo ezibalaseleyo zesitayile: akulula ukunxiba, ithambile kwaye ikhululekile, kulula ukuyicoca.
Musa ukutshisa elangeni, musa ukugrumba.
Iindawo zokuhlambela: Musa ukomisa ucocekile, wome ebumnyameni.
Indlela yogcino: musa ukunxiba ixesha lonyaka, buyisela umva kwingqokelela yeplastiki ecaba.
Ixesha lokuposa: Dec-17-2024