Okokuqala, mandikubuze umbuzo: ingaba isuti inamacandelo amabini: ilaphu kunye nezixhobo?
Hayi, impendulo ayichanekanga. Isuti yenziwe ngamacandelo amathathu: ilaphu, izixhobo kunye nelaphu.
Ilaphu kunye nezixhobo zibaluleke kakhulu, kodwa umgangatho wesuti uxhomekeke kwilaphu, kuba lidibanisa izinto ezimbini ezahlukeneyo ze-ductile, ilaphu kunye nezixhobo.
Indlela engabizi kakhulu, efanelekileyo kwimpahla kukusebenzisa i-lining yokuncamathelisa, nokuba yenziwe ngesandla, kodwa ukusebenzisa i-lining yokuncamathelisa isenokuba ngaphantsi kwe-2000 yuan. Oku kulandelayo, inqanaba eliphantsi le-lining yokuncamathelisa ngokuhamba kwexesha, uya kufumanisa ukuba i-suit yamalaphu kunye nezixhobo azisayi kufaneleka, zitsalelana kwelinye icala, kubonakala ngathi kukwahlukana komdlalo.
Ilaphu elihle, umzekelo, iisuti zoshishino ezenziwe yiYUNAI kufuneka zenziwe ngoboya, ilinen kunye nomnqwazi wehashe. Ngamafutshane, kufuneka izinto zendalo. Injongo kukunceda ilaphu kunye nezixhobo zihambe kancinci ngelixa zinceda ukuba ziphinde zisebenze.
Inkalo yesibini: nangona umgangatho wezinto ezisetyenzisiweyo uphenjelelwa zizinto ezininzi, ixabiso lelaphu ngoku lixhomekeke kakhulu kwindawo elivela kuyo. Ixabiso lelaphu lasekhaya lahlukile kakhulu kwelelaphu elivela kwamanye amazwe, elivela kakhulu e-Itali naseBritane.
Amalaphu eesuti aphambili kwihlabathi aquka: u-Ermenegildo Zegna, uLORO PIANA, uVITALE BARBERIS CANONICO, uREDA, uCERRUTI 1881, uYUNAI, oluyinkampani enkulu yoboya yase-Itali; Ikwayindlela yokulinganisa umgangatho woboya. UCHARLES CLAYTON, abane abalandelayo ngabavelisi boboya abadala nabaxabisekileyo eBritane. Iimpawu eziphambili zelaphu lehempe yiBritane uTHOMAS MASON, uSwitzerland uAlumo, u-Italy uMONTI, uLEGGIUNO, uFERNO njalo njalo. Ivenkile eyenzelwe wena ineentlobo ezininzi zeesuti kunye namalaphu ehempe ngokusisiseko yivenkile eyenzelwe wena ngokukhethekileyo.
Ngokwesiqhelo, ezi fektri zinemiqathango engqongqo kwimigangatho yobungcali yeevenkile ezenziwe ngokwezifiso. Kuphela xa zifikelela kwimigangatho efanelekileyo apho ziya kuvumela ukusetyenziswa kwamalaphu azo kunye neempawu zorhwebo. Ukongeza, nokuba usebenzisa amalaphu asekhaya okanye angeniswe kwamanye amazwe, izithako ngokuyintloko ziboya, ewe, kuya kubakho ezinye izithako, ezifana ne-cashmere, kodwa amalaphu asemgangathweni ophezulu enziwe ngamalaphu endalo kunokuba abe zizinto zokwenziwa, kodwa awunakwenza iimfuno ezingqongqo kakhulu kumalaphu asekhaya.
1. Ilaphu elicociweyo loboya obucocekileyo
Ilaphu loboya libhekisa kwilaphu elenziwe ngoboya okanye uboya kunye ne-polyester, i-viscose, i-acrylic, njl.njl.
Uboya obubi kakhulu ngelaphu lempahla elikumgangatho ophezulu elenziwe ngoboya begusha obucocekileyo nobucocekileyo, obunokuxutywa nenani elithile leefayibha zekhemikhali zoboya okanye olunye uboya bendalo, kwaye bucutshungulwe ngezixhobo zokukama, ukukama, ukuzoba, ukusonta, ukuluka, ukudaya kunye nokugqiba amaxesha amaninzi.
Inokuguquguquka okuhle kokuba uboya bezilwanyana bube nesondo esingaqhelekanga, esithambileyo, esicacileyo nesingenazintloni, xa ifunxa umswakama okanye ibila emva ukuze ihlale ifudumele.
Iimpahla ezenziwe ngelaphu elihle loboya zihlala ixesha elide kwaye aziyi konakala ixesha elide. Zithambile kakhulu ngenxa yokungabikho kwe-aurora. Zithambile kwaye zigudile ngokwesitayile, zintle ngembonakalo, ziqinile kwaye ziqinile, zichanekile ngokupheleleyo, zinesitayile sakudala, zithambile kwaye zendalo ngokukhazimla njalo njalo.
Oko kubizwa ngokuba yi-worsted kunye ne-woolen, ndizamile ukuchaza, ukusuka kwi-engile yezimbini, enye ingaphezulu kwe-fiber, enye kukuluka, i-fiber spinning yi-32 nangaphezulu kwe-40, ubale i-fiber yamalungu athambileyo, amancinci, uxinano lwendalo oluphezulu, ukumelana nokukrala okuhle, intuthuzelo elungileyo, enye yi-weave, ilaphu eli-worsted elilukiweyo ngumatshini welaphu ocolekileyo, ukuthintela ukwaphuka kwefayibha, i-dense degree iphezulu, ilaphu le-woolen, i-joint, kulula ukuliqhekeza, umahluko wokuxhathisa ukunxiba kwendalo, uxinano alulunganga.
Amalaphu acocekileyo abhityileyo kakhulu, anomphezulu ogudileyo kunye nemigca ecacileyo.
Umzimba uqinile, uthambile kwaye uyanwebeka.
Bamba izinto emva kokuba zikhululekile, ngokusisiseko akukho buso, nokuba kukho ukugoba okuncinci kunokuphela ngexesha elifutshane kakhulu.
Ukuchongwa kwelaphu loboya obucocekileyo:
Ilaphu loboya elicocekileyo elinombala wendalo othambileyo kunye nefuthe elihle lobushushu lukhetho lokuqala lokwenza iisuti kunye neengubo eziphezulu.
Kodwa ngoku amalaphu amaninzi afana noboya, njengoko iteknoloji yelaphu iphucukile, afikelele kwinqanaba labathengi abaninzi ekunzima ukulibona, kodwa umbala, ubushushu, imvakalelo njalo njalo zincinci kakhulu kunemalaphu oboya obucocekileyo.
Oku kulandelayo kwazisa iindlela ezahlukeneyo zokuchonga ilaphu loboya elicocekileyo, ukuze ubhekisele kulo xa ukhetha impahla kunye nomgubo.
Okokuqala, chukumisa.
Amalaphu oboya obucocekileyo adla ngokuvakala ngathi athambile, athambile, amalaphu oboya obude kunye nokuvakala ngathi athambile, ajika iinwele zibe buhlungu. Kwaye ifayibha yekhemikhali exutyiweyo okanye ecocekileyo, amanye athambile kancinci, amanye athambile kakhulu kwaye akhululekile, kwaye aziva enamathela.
Okwesibini, jonga umbala.
Umbala welaphu loboya obucocekileyo uthambile kwaye wendalo, ukhanya kwaye awuphelelwa lixesha. Ngokwahlukileyo koko, umphezulu wefayibha yekhemikhali exutyiweyo okanye ecocekileyo, okanye ukukhazimla kumnyama, okanye kunomtsalane.
Okwesithathu, jonga ukuthamba.
Bamba ilaphu ngokuqinileyo ngesandla, uze ulikhulule ngoko nangoko ukuze ubone ukuba ilaphu lithambile kangakanani. Izinga lokubuya kwelaphu loboya obucocekileyo liphezulu, linokubuyela ngokukhawuleza kwimeko yalo yokuqala, kunye neemveliso zefayibha yokuxuba okanye yeekhemikhali, ukumelana nemibimbi akukuhle, uninzi lweempawu zemibimbi ezicacileyo, okanye ukubuyela kancinci.
Okwesine. Ukuchonga ukutsha.
Thabatha inqwaba yemisonto, sebenzisa umlilo, ifayibha yoboya ecocekileyo ivumba njengeenwele ezitshayo, ifayibha yamakhemikhali ivumba njengeplastiki etshayo. Okukhona amasuntswana eqina emva kokutsha, kokukhona kukho iinxalenye zefayibha yamakhemikhali ezininzi.
1. Ukuchonga ingcambu enye.
Iinwele phantsi kwemicroscope ukuze ubone zonke izilwanyana zinezikali, ukuba iinwele ezinde zibekwe izihlandlo ezimbalwa phezulu okanye ezantsi (ukuze ube nobuchule obunjalo, ungathatha iinwele kwisilingo sokuqala), ukuba lilaphu eliqhelekileyo, ukhupha intambo yeengcambu, usike iisentimitha ezi-2 zeendinyana ezimbini zibe yifayibha enye phantsi kwesandla sakho, zigubungele ezine okanye ezintlanu, aziyi kuhamba.
2. Ilaphu elixutyiweyo loboya kunye ne-polyester
Ilaphu elixutywe ngoboya, eliyi-cashmere, i-polyester, i-spandex, iinwele zomvundla kunye nezinye iifayibha kunye namalaphu axutywe ngoboya. Ilaphu elixutywe ngoboya kunye ne-polyester, phantsi kwelanga, umphezulu unendawo ekhanyayo, ilaphu liqinile kwaye liqinile, lithambile kakuhle, libamba ilaphu likhululekile, phantse akukho mibimbi.
Isikhokelo se-Warp, i-warp, uxinano lwe-warp
— Icala lobude belaphu;
Iintambo ezisecaleni zibizwa ngokuba ziintambo ezigobileyo;
Inani lemisonto ebekwe ngaphakathi kwe-intshi enye liyi-warp density;
Isikhokelo se-Weft, ukuzalisa kunye noxinano lokuzalisa
— Icala lobubanzi belaphu;
Intambo ibizwa ngokuba yi-weft, kwaye inani lemisonto engaphakathi kwe-intshi liyi-weft density.
Uxinano
— Isetyenziselwa ukumela inani lemisonto ngobude beyunithi nganye yelaphu le-shuttle, ngokubanzi inani lemisonto ngaphakathi kwe-intshi e-1 okanye iisentimitha ezili-10. Imigangatho yesizwe yaseTshayina imisela ukuba inani lemisonto ngaphakathi kweesentimitha ezili-10 lisetyenziselwa ukumela uxinano, kodwa amashishini eelaphu asasebenzisa inani lemisonto ngaphakathi kwe-intshi e-1 ukumela uxinano.
Umzekelo, i-“45×45/108×58” eqhele ukubonwa ibhekisa kwi-45 weft kunye ne-warp yarns ezinobunzima be-108 kunye ne-58 ngokulandelanayo.
Ububanzi
— Ububanzi obusebenzayo belaphu budla ngokubonakaliswa ngee-intshi okanye iisentimitha. Ezo ziqhelekileyo zii-intshi ezingama-36, ii-intshi ezingama-44, ii-intshi ezingama-56-60, njl.njl., ezibizwa ngokuba zimxinwa, eziphakathi kunye nobubanzi, ngokwahlukeneyo. Amalaphu aphezulu kunee-intshi ezingama-60 abanzi kakhulu, adla ngokubizwa ngokuba lilaphu elibanzi.
Ububanzi buhlala buphawulwa emva koxinano. Umzekelo, ukuba ilaphu elikhankanyiweyo ku: 3 longezwa nobubanzi, liya kuchazwa njengo “45×45/108×58/60” “, oko kukuthi ububanzi buzii-intshi ezingama-60.
Ubunzima
— Ubunzima begram yelaphu ngokubanzi yigram yobunzima belaphu kwiimitha zesikwere. Ubunzima begram sisalathisi esibalulekileyo sobuchwephesha belaphu elilukiweyo, kwaye ubunzima begram buhlala buthathwa njengesibonakaliso esibalulekileyo sobuchwephesha belaphu loboya.
Ubunzima begram yedenim buchazwa njenge-"OZ", oko kukuthi, inani lee-ounces zobunzima belaphu ngeyadi yesikwere, njengee-ounces ezi-7, ii-ounces ezili-12 zedenim, njl.
Idaywe ngentambo
EJapan, ibizwa ngokuba “yilaphu elidayiweyo”, elibhekisa kwinkqubo yokudaya intambo okanye intambo uze emva koko uluke ilaphu ngentambo enemibala. Olu hlobo lwelaphu lubizwa ngokuba “yilaphu elidayiweyo ngentambo”. Iifektri ezivelisa ilaphu elidayiweyo ngentambo zihlala zibizwa ngokuba ziifektri zokudaya nokuluka, ezifana nedenim, kwaye uninzi lwamalaphu ehempe adayiweyo ngentambo.
3. Ilaphu elixutyiweyo le-wool kunye ne-viscose
Ukukhazimla kufiphele.
Uvakalelo olubi lubuthathaka, ngelixa uvakalelo loboya lukhululekile.
Olu hlobo lwelaphu alugudi kakhulu kwaye luqinile kunelaphu elixutyiweyo loboya obucocekileyo kunye ne-polyester yoboya. Ukuba umxholo we-viscose uphezulu, ilaphu kulula ukuligoqa.
Ilaphu le-viscose yendabuko efana nefayibha yekhemikhali ecocekileyo, ifayibha yoboya yokwenziwa njengezinto ezikrwada zelaphu elifana nefayibha, ukukhazimla okufipheleyo, ukuthamba, ukungabi namvakalelo yokuba ikrwada. Ngenxa yokuba ukuthamba kubuthathaka, kubonakala kulula ukukrwada, kwaye akulula ukubuna. Yindlela esebenzayo yokuchonga ilaphu le-viscose apho amandla entambo ekhutshwe kwilaphu ngokucacileyo ayancipha xa imanzi kunaxa yomile. Ukongeza, eli laphu lifana nefayibha liyaqina kwaye liqine emva kokumanzisa. Ngokuhambela phambili kwesayensi netekhnoloji, iimveliso zoboya ezingafaniyo ngombala, ukuvakalelwa, ukuqina nazo ziye zaba njalo.
Iintlobo eziphambili:
Iinwele zomvundla
Ngokubanzi, umlinganiselo othile weenwele zomvundla kunye noboya zidityaniswe kwaye zilukwe. Iimpawu zesweta yomvundla zikwimicu yayo emincinci, ukuthamba okuthambileyo nokufana newax, ukuthamba komphezulu okuthambileyo nokuthambileyo, kunye nokuthamba okuhle. Ikhululekile kwaye yendalo ukunxiba, kwaye ukuthamba komphezulu ophakathi kulula ukuwa.
Ukuba inkqubo yokwenza ijezi kuqala uze uyidaye (oko kukuthi, ukuluka uze uyidaye) iyasetyenziswa, umbala kunye nokukhazimla kuya kuba mhlophe kwaye kube kuhle, kube nelathisi ekhethekileyo, efanelekileyo ngakumbi kwiimpahla zangaphandle zabasetyhini abaselula.
Iinwele zefayibha yekhemikhali
Uphawu oluqhelekileyo lwempahla kukukhanya kwayo.
Yiba njenge-acrylic unshirt, uluke nge-acrylic bulk warn rhoqo, imo yayo yoboya ivakala inamandla, inombala kwaye iyakhazimla, umgangatho wento leyo ithambile kwaye ithambile, izinga lokufumana umswakama liyi-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla okuqhekeka kwefayibha made kunefayibha yoboya, ayizukuba mdaka, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kuyabuyiselwa izinga liphantsi kunefayibha yoboya, gcina isondo lifudumele lingaphantsi kunejazi yoboya obucocekileyo, ixabiso liphantsi, kodwa kulula ukulifaka, lifanelekile kwiimpahla zabantwana.
Kutshanje, imakethi yamazwe ngamazwe ye-acrylic, i-polyamide fiber blended yarn, i-modified acrylic imitation mohair yarn, ifana neesweaters zendalo zomvundla, iimpahla ze-mohair.
Iinwele zezilwanyana ezixutywe neefayibha zeekhemikhali
Ineempawu "ezihambelanayo" zeenwele zezilwanyana ezahlukeneyo kunye neefayibha zeekhemikhali, kwaye inkangeleko yayo inoboya, amandla obude ayaphucuka, kwaye ixabiso leswetha liyancitshiswa. Yimveliso elungileyo nengabizi kakhulu.
Kodwa kwijezi exutyiweyo, kukho ingxaki yokuba isiphumo sokudaya asifanelekanga ngenxa yokwahluka kokudaya kunye nokukwazi ukufunxa imibala kweentlobo ezahlukeneyo zeefayibha.
4. Izinto ezifana noboya befayibha yokwenziwa
AmaNgesi ayengabokuqala ukufunda ngokukhutshelwa kweproteni kwiglu yezilwanyana ukuze kwenziwe imicu yeproteni yokwenziwa.
Ngo-1935, abanye abantu e-Itali bazama ukukhupha itshizi kubisi ukuze benze uboya bokwenziwa.
Ukususela ngoko, amanye amazwe aphumelele ekwenzeni iifayibha zokwenziwa ezivela kwiproteni yesoya kunye neproteni yamandongomane.
Ngenxa yeengxaki ngexabiso lokusetyenziswa kunye nokuveliswa kweefayibha ezinjalo, imveliso incinci kakhulu.
I-YUNAI ifiphele, ayinamvakalelo icacileyo, ngenxa yokungaguquguquki kakuhle, kulula kakhulu ukuyijonga, kwaye ayinyamalali lula.
Kukho iintlobo ezimbini zeefayibha ezenziwe ngumntu: ifayibha evuselelweyo kunye nefayibha yeekhemikhali. Ifayibha evuselelweyo yifayibha ye-viscose eyenziwe ngomthi kunye nefayibha yengca ngokucubungula iikhemikhali.
Ifayibha yekhemikhali yifayibha eyenziweyo eyenziwe ngepetroleum, igesi yendalo, amalahle kunye neemveliso zezolimo.
Ngokwemilo nokusetyenziswa kweefayibha ezenziwe ngumntu, kukho iintlobo ezintathu: i-rayon, i-rayon kunye noboya.
Iindidi ezibalulekileyo zine-viscose fiber, i-acetate fiber, i-copper ammonia fiber njalo njalo.
Ifayibha evuselelweyo inokwahlulwa ibe yifayibha yeselilulose evuselelweyo, ifayibha ye-cellulose ester, ifayibha yeproteni kunye nezinye iifayibha zepolymer zendalo.
Iipropati zayo xa kuthelekiswa neefayibha zeekhemikhali, iifayibha ezisisiseko.
Ilaphu lefayibha elenziwe ngumntu ngokuyintloko libhekisa kwi-filament yefayibha ye-viscose kunye nefayibha ye-staple, oko kukuthi ikotoni elenziwe ngumntu abantu abaqhelene nayo, i-rayon njl.
Ukongeza, ikwaquka nenxalenye yelaphu lefayibha etyebileyo kunye nelaphu lefayibha eliphakathi phakathi kwe-filament kunye ne-staple.
Ngoko ke, iimpawu zelaphu lefayibha yomntu zixhomekeke kakhulu kwiimpawu zefayibha ye-viscose.
Amalaphu eRayon kunye neRayon athambile xa uwachukumisa, ayakwazi ukuphefumla kwaye akhululekile ukuwanxiba, kwaye anombala oqaqambileyo.
Ilaphu lefayibha elenziwe ngumntu line-hygroscopicity elungileyo, kwaye i-hygroscopicity yalo yeyona ilungileyo kwifayibha yamakhemikhali. Kodwa amandla alo amanzi aphantsi kakhulu, malunga ne-50% yamandla omileyo kuphela, kwaye izinga lokuncitshiswa kwelaphu likhulu, ngoko ke kufuneka linciphe kwangaphambili ngaphambi kokuba kuphuculwe ukusika.
Ilaphu eliqhelekileyo le-viscose lineempawu zokugquma kakuhle, ukuqina okungekho ngqinibeni, ukuqina kunye nokumelana nemibimbi, ngoko ke impahla yalo ayigcinwanga kakuhle kwaye idla ngokubhitya.
Ilaphu le-Viscose fiber linokumelana okuhle ne-asidi kunye ne-alkali, ukumelana nelanga kunye nezinye iziyobisi.
5. Izinto ezifana noboya bekhemikhali ezicocekileyo
Ngokubanzi, ifayibha yokwenziwa isetyenziswa njengezinto eziphambili, ifayibha yokwenziwa okanye isilika enemibala njengentambo encedisayo, kwaye ifayibha yokwenziwa entsha isetyenziswa njengezinto eziphambili, enesakhiwo esifanelekileyo selaphu. Olu hlobo lwelaphu luneentlobo ezimbini zesitayile sendalo esifana ne-bamboo.
Inophawu lwendalo lwefayibha yendalo.
Ilaphu linombala oqaqambileyo, lihle xa likhazimla, liqinile kwaye liyanwebeka, lifanelekile kuluntu.
Uboya befayibha yekhemikhali, uphawu oluqhelekileyo lwempahla lukhaphukhaphu.
Yiba njenge-acrylic unshirt, uluke nge-acrylic bulk warn rhoqo, imo yayo yoboya ivakala inamandla, inombala kwaye iyakhazimla, umgangatho wento leyo ithambile kwaye ithambile, izinga lokufumana umswakama liyi-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla okuqhekeka kwefayibha made kunefayibha yoboya, ayizukuba mdaka, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kuyabuyiselwa izinga liphantsi kunefayibha yoboya, gcina isondo lifudumele lingaphantsi kunejazi yoboya obucocekileyo, ixabiso liphantsi, kodwa kulula ukulifaka, lifanelekile kwiimpahla zabantwana.
Kutshanje, imakethi yamazwe ngamazwe ye-acrylic, i-poly-amide fiber blended yarn, i-modified acrylic imitation mohair yarn, ifana nehempe enokuthelekiswa neenwele zomvundla zendalo, impahla ye-mohair.
Uboya obuxutyiweyo beenwele zezilwanyana kunye neefayibha zeekhemikhali, obuneempawu ezahlukeneyo zeenwele zezilwanyana kunye neefayibha zeekhemikhali "ezihambelanayo", inkangeleko yalo inomvakalelo woboya, amandla obude ayaphucuka, inciphisa ixabiso leswetha, yimveliso engabizi kwaye intle.
Kodwa kwijezi exutyiweyo, kukho ingxaki yokuba iintlobo ezahlukeneyo zeefayibha zinamandla ahlukeneyo okudaya nombala, nto leyo ebangela ukuba isiphumo sokudaya singafanelekanga.
Yahlula phakathi kwezinto ezifana noboya obufana nefayibha yeekhemikhali kunye nelaphu loboya obucocekileyo:
Ilaphu elifana noboya lenziwe kakhulu ngefayibha yamakhemikhali, kwaye ifayibha yeviscose ingaphezulu, njenge-polyester/viscose medium long wool, i-polyester ecocekileyo kunye nezinye iimveliso ezifana noboya.
Okokuqala, i-gloss yahlukile.
Ilaphu loboya obucocekileyo lithambile kakhulu kwaye lendalo, linombala ongakhazimliyo kangako. Ilaphu loboya obufana nefayibha yeekhemikhali linemibala etyebileyo kwaye likhanya kakhulu. Ukuba ujonga ngononophelo phantsi kwelanga, uya kuhlala ubona amachaphaza okukhanya aqaqambileyo nakhazimlayo.
Eli nqaku lokuxelisa uboya obupholileyo ukuze bufane nelaphu loboya nalo linokungacaci.
Okwesibini, ukuvakalelwa kunye nokuthamba kwahlukile.
Amalaphu oboya obucocekileyo avakala ethambile, ethambile kancinci, enethambo lomzimba, eshwabene kancinci kodwa engaqinanga, ethambileyo kodwa engathanga ngqo;
Ngelixa i-polyester, ibukeka njengeboya, kodwa ithambile kwaye ithambile, ayinamathambo omzimba, imibimbi ngakumbi, ibuyela umva kancinci.
Okwesithathu, tshisa isilika emva kokuzoba.
Umsonto welaphu loboya obucocekileyo unokubonwa emva kokungalingani kwefayibha yoboya, ubude obahlukeneyo, ukugoba kwendalo, kunye ne-viscose zixelisa ubude befayibha yelaphu loboya, ubukhulu bufana ngokulinganayo.
Emva kokutsha, emva kokuba umlilo uvutha kancinci, ushiye umlilo uqhubeka uvutha, iinwele zihamba nevumba, uthuthu, ityhubhu emnyama eqhotsiweyo, ukujijwa oko kukuthi ibe ngumgubo welaphu loboya obucocekileyo, kwaye kufutshane nomlilo kuyatsha, kutsha ngokukhawuleza, ilangabi elityheli, kutsha nge-clamp, uthuthu olunempunga ekhanyayo, emhlophe kwaye lushiya iqhekeza le-polyester/viscose linzima ukulityumza.
Ikwashiya iqhuma elimnyama emva kokutsha.
Ukususela kwizithako ezimbini ukuya kwezimbini okanye ngaphezulu okanye ilaphu elidityanisiweyo elidibeneyo: uboya/i-viscose, uboya/i-polyester, uboya/isilika, uboya/i-viscose/i-spandex, njl.njl., ayifuni nje kuphela ukuqonda ngokupheleleyo iintlobo ezahlukeneyo zemo yefayibha kunye neempawu zayo, kwaye indlela yokusebenzisa ukuchongwa kwefayibha ezininzi, ukusuka ekujongeni kwakhona, ukutshisa ukutsha ukuya kuvavanyo emva kovavanyo, inokufikelela kwisigqibo ngokukhuselekileyo.
6. Uboya obunemercerized
Izinto zoboya ezisetyenziswa nge-mercerizing zizinto zoboya eziqhelekileyo emva konyango lweekhemikhali kunye nonyango lomzimba, ukutshatyalaliswa kwesikali sefayibha yoboya, kwaye ngokusebenzisa i-arhente yovavanyo lweekhemikhali, zenza uboya bube buthambile, bube mhlophe, bungabi buthathaka xa buhlanjwa, bufaneleke kwiilokhwe zomtshato.
Uboya obune-mercerizing yindlela yokuphatha iimveliso zoboya kwinkqubo yokwenziwa kwe-mercerizing yokudaya nokugqiba uboya.
Uboya kufuneka bufakwe i-chlorine yiBasolan DC okanye buphathwe nge-protease ukutshabalalisa izikali zomphezulu woboya kwaye kuncitshiswe umahluko phakathi kwe-friction coefficient ngexesha lokuhamba phambili nokujika koboya. Emva konyango, ukukhazimla koboya kuyanda, okwaziwa ngokuba yi-mercerized wool.
Uboya obufakwe imercerized bunokulukwa ngoboya obucocekileyo okanye buxutywe.
Iimpawu eziphambili zezokuthintela ukushwabana, ukuhlanjwa ngomatshini, kunye nokungahlanjwa.
Itekhnoloji yoboya obune-mercerized yaqala phakathi kwiminyaka yoo-1990, yitekhnoloji entsha yokudaya nokugqiba eyenziwe ngokusekelwe kwiteknoloji yendabuko yokuthintela ukuncitshiswa kweboya.
Ilaphu loboya elilungisiweyo linomfanekiso we-cashmere kunye nokukhazimla okuthambileyo.
Ngenxa yezi mpawu, iimveliso ze-mercerizing zoboya zakhawuleza zathandwa.
Ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, uboya obune-mercerized buthandwa kakhulu, isabelo semarike sidlule ubungakanani boboya obuqhelekileyo.
Kukho iingcamango ezahlukeneyo zoboya obune-mercerized eTshayina nakwamanye amazwe ehlabathini. ETshayina, uboya obususwe i-phosphorus bubizwa ngokuba yi-mercerized wool, ngelixa uboya begusha bamazwe ngamazwe buphekwa ngomphunga oshushu, kwaye bunwetshwe nge-30% ~ 50%. Emva koko, emva kokuba bupholiswe ngamanzi abandayo kwaye bumile, uboya begusha obude nobuncinci bubizwa ngokuba yi-mercerized wool.
7. Uboya
Uboya bubizwa ngokuba yilaphu lefayibha yoboya.
Ifayibha yoboya idityaniswe ngeemolekyuli zeproteni, ukubonakala komaleko owahlukileyo wesakhiwo esiqinileyo seehorny scale, ugqunywe ngokuqinileyo, isakhiwo se-flake sincinci kakhulu, inzuzo yaso kukuthintela ukungcola kwifayibha, ngoko ke, impahla yoboya ayingcolisi lula.
Iimpahla zokucoca impahla zidla ngokudibana neendidi ezahlukeneyo zamalaphu xa zihlamba impahla, kwaye neempahla zoboya nazo zixhaphakile.
Isizathu sokuba uboya buvelise ukukhanya okuqaqambileyo kukuba:
(1) Umaleko wesikali esinamaqhuqhuva kumphezulu wefayibha yoboya udlakazwe kancinci;
(2) Uthuli kunye nothuli ziyagutyungelwa kancinci kwaye zinamathele emngxunyeni, ukuze umphezulu welaphu ube mpuluswa, nto leyo ebangela ukuba ukukhanya kukhanye rhoqo, nto leyo ebangela ukukhanya okuqaqambileyo.
Iindlela zokususa ukukhanya:
(1) Isonka singajijwa sibe ngumgubo size sisasazwe ekukhanyeni, ngentsimbi eyongeziweyo;
(2) Ukuqhotsa: Nciphisa isisombululo se-acetic acid ngoxinzelelo lwe-3-5% kunye nobushushu obuyi-50℃ imizuzu emi-3-5, uze uhlambe ngamanzi acocekileyo.
Iviniga emhlophe nayo ingasetyenziswa.
(3) Hlamba ngebrashi xa uhlamba.
Ifayibha yifayibha yendalo, yimbangela yembewu yezityalo, iziqu kunye namagqabi amaninzi aneefayibha ezininzi zeekhemikhali azinamgangatho ulungileyo, i-hydrophilic gene engaphezulu kwifayibha yomqhaphu, i-hygroscopicity ilungile, inxiba ukufunxwa kokubila, ingena umoya, ikhululekile, kwaye ipholile kwaye ipholile, ithambile, ayinamathele kwiimpawu ezisetyenziswa kakhulu kushishino lweempahla, yamkelekile kubathengi.
Iingenelo: ithambile kwaye iyanwebeka esandleni, ithambile kwaye iyakhazimla ngokwendalo, ikhululekile kwaye intle ukuyinxiba, ivakalelwa kakuhle, ifunxa umswakama kakuhle, ayilula ukuyifudumeza, igcina ubushushu kakuhle, iyamelana nokugoba, ingakumbi emva kokulungiswa kwempahla kunye noku-ayina, ilungisa ngcono i-pleat shaping kunye nokukhusela imo yempahla;
Qaphela: Ubushushu bokuhlamba akufuneki bube phezulu kakhulu, musa ukuhlikihla okanye ukukrwela ukuze ungachaphazeleki lilanga.
Indawo yokucinezela: Ukuyina ngamanzi, uku-ayina izinto zomile kwelinye icala.
Iingxaki: i-alkali – iyamelana, iyancipha, kulula ukuyishwabanisa.
8. Ilaphu le-Wool-polyester
Ilaphu le-Wool-polyester (i-wool-polyester): Ilaphu elenziwe ngemisonto exutyiweyo yoboya kunye ne-polyester, uhlobo oluqhelekileyo lwelaphu elixutyiweyo loboya.
Ilaphu elenziwe ngoboya kunye nomsonto oxutyiweyo wepolyester.
Umlinganiselo oqhelekileyo wokuxuba uboya ne-polyester yi-45∶55, nto leyo engayigcini nje ngokugcina inzuzo yoboya, kodwa ikwanika ithuba elipheleleyo kwinzuzo ye-polyester.
Phantse zonke ilaphu ezirhabaxa nezibolileyo zineentlobo ezahlukeneyo zomxube we-wool-polyester.
Phakathi kwazo, ilaphu elibhityileyo leentyatyambo zoboya-ipolyester elikwabizwa ngokuba yicool, elaziwa ngokuba yiwool really cool, lelona phawu libalaseleyo lokudibanisa uboya-ipolyester kwenye yelaphu.
Kukho i-double-ply warp kunye ne-weft, i-double-ply warp, i-single-ply weft kunye ne-single-ply warp kunye ne-weft.
Ngokwesiqhelo kukho imicu emibini yamadoda engama-50 ~ 70, amalaphu amancinci anemicu emibini yamadoda engama-100 ~ 120.
Ubunzima belaphu bumalunga ne-170 ~ 190 g/m2.
Xa ithelekiswa ne-tweed yoboya, i-tweed encinci ye-wool-polyester ilula kwaye ilula ngokwendlela ebukeka ngayo, inokubuyiselwa kakuhle kwemibimbi, iqinile kwaye ayigugi, kulula ukuyihlamba, yomile ngokukhawuleza, ihlala ixesha elide, inobukhulu obuzinzileyo, kodwa ayigudi njengoboya.
Ukuba usebenzisa i-polyester ekhaphukhaphu njengezinto ezikrwada, umphezulu wesilika uyakhazimla.
Ukuba kusetyenziswa uboya bezilwanyana obukhethekileyo obufana ne-cashmere okanye uboya benkamela kwizinto ezisetyenzisiweyo zokuxuba, buya kuvakala butyibilika kwaye bunamathele ngakumbi.
Umlinganiselo oqhelekileyo wokuxuba uboya ne-polyester yi-45:55, nto leyo engayigcini nje ngokugcina iingenelo zoboya, kodwa ikwanika ithuba lokudlala kwiingenelo ze-polyester.
Iingenelo: uboya obuxutywe ne-polyester, bukhanya kwaye bukhanya ngokwendlela obukhangeleka ngayo, busebenza kakuhle ekubuyiseleni imibimbi.
Ihlala ixesha elide, kulula ukuyihlamba nokuyomisa, izinzile ngobukhulu, ihlala ixesha elide xa ikwi-tuck
Iindawo zokuhlamba: faka emanzini abandayo imizuzu eli-15 kuqala, uze uhlambe ngesepha yokwenziwa ngokubanzi, ubushushu bokuhlamba obuqhelekileyo abufanele budlule ama-degrees angama-45, ikhola, i-cuff, indawo engcolileyo ungasebenzisa ibrashi yoboya ethambileyo ukuxubha ngobunono, emva kokucoca icocekile, ingajika kancinci, thenga umoya opholileyo, ungagqumi, akufuneki yomiswe, hleze kuba ivuthiwe ibangele imibimbi.
Ilaphu le-9.T/R
Yenye yeempawu zelaphu le-T/R ukwenza ijakethi yekhola emileyo, ijakethi yelapel kunye nokunxiba okuqhelekileyo okunenani elikhulu lelaphu le-T/R eli-plaid okanye eli-stripe, i-flash okanye eli-monochrome.
Ilaphu le-T/R lilaphu elixutywe ne-polyester viscose. Ilaphu le-polyester viscose luhlobo lomxube ohambelanayo. I-polyester viscose ayisiyo kuphela ikotoni, uboya, kunye nobude obuphakathi. Ilaphu le-wool elaziwa ngokuba yi-"fast bus". Xa i-polyester ingaphantsi kwe-50%, olu hlobo lwelaphu elixutyiweyo lunokugcina i-polyester iqinile, imelana nemibimbi, izinzile ngobukhulu, ihlambeke kwaye iguge iimpawu ezinamandla. Ukuxuba i-viscose fiber kuphucula ukungena komoya kwelaphu kunye nokumelana nomngxuma onyibilikayo. Iziganeko zokuthambisa kunye nokungaguquguquki kwelaphu zancitshiswa.
Sebenzisa i-65/35 okanye i-67/33 kwi-polyester/viscid-blend ratio. Umxube we-polyester/viscose uyafana ne-polyester/viscose. Iimpawu zolu hlobo lwelaphu elixutyiweyo zigudile kwaye zicocekile, zinemibala eqaqambileyo, zimile kakuhle uboya, zithambile esandleni, zifunxa kakuhle ukufuma; Kodwa azihlali ixesha elide.
Iingenelo: iqinile, ayibimbi, inobukhulu obuzinzileyo, iyahlanjwa kwaye iyanxitywa.
Ingaphucula ukuvuleka komoya kwilaphu, inciphise ukubola kunye nemeko ye-antistatic.
Iindawo zokuhlamba: Umatshini wokuhlamba ungasetyenziswa, musa ukukhuhla ngebrashi, ukuze ungatyibiliki okanye wome kwelinye icala.
10. I-NC enoxinano oluphezulu
Ilaphu le-NC elinoxinano oluphezulu luhlobo lwelaphu elixutywe okanye elilukiweyo ne-poly-amide (nylon) kunye nomsonto wekotoni.
Le mveliso idibanisa iingenelo ze-nylon kunye ne-cotton warn.
Amandla okuguguleka kwe-nylon aphakathi kweefayibha zendalo kunye neefayibha zeekhemikhali. Ukufunxwa komswakama kwe-nylon kungcono kunokwe-polyester, kwaye intuthuzelo yayo yokuguguleka kunye neempawu zokudaya zingcono kuneze-polyester. Ke ngoko, ukufunxwa komswakama kunye nentuthuzelo yokuguguleka kwe-cotton thread akuyi kuncitshiswa xa ixutywe okanye idityaniswe ne-cotton thread.
I-nylon inobuthambile obugqwesileyo. Emva kokuxuba okanye ukuluka ngentambo yomqhaphu, ubuthambile belaphu buyaphucuka.
Ingxaki yelaphu le-NC yile: ngenxa ye-nylon ebandakanyeka ekuthungeni okanye ekudibaniseni, ukumelana nobushushu kunye nokumelana nokukhanya kwelaphu akukuhle, nikela ingqalelo ekuhlanjweni naseku-ayineni ngexesha lokusetyenziswa ukuze kuhlangatyezwane neemeko, ukuze kuthintelwe umonakalo.
Iimpawu zayo zesitayile ezibalaseleyo: azilula ukuzinxiba, zithambile kwaye zikhululekile, kulula ukuzicoca.
Musa ukutsha elangeni, musa ukukrwitsha.
Iindawo zokuhlamba: Musa ukuzomisa zicoceke, zomise ebumnyameni.
Indlela yokulungisa: musa ukunxiba ixesha lonyaka, buyisela kwingqokelela yeplastiki ethe tyaba.
Ixesha leposi: Disemba-17-2024