Kungaphantsi kweveki! Ngomhla we-19 kweyeDwarha, siza kuxoxa ngemiba ebalulekileyo yosuku kunye neSourcing Journal kunye neenkokheli zoshishino kwiSOURCING SUMMIT NY. Ishishini lakho alinakuphoswa koku!
“[I-Denim] iqinisa isikhundla sayo kwimarike,” utshilo uManon Mangin, intloko yeemveliso zefashoni kwiDenim Première Vision.
Nangona ishishini leedenim liphinde lafumana imeko yalo entle, likwalumkile ngokubeka onke amaqanda alo kwingobozi enye njengoko lenza kwiminyaka elishumi eyadlulayo, xa uninzi lwamashishini lwaluxhomekeke ekuthengisweni kweejeans ezithambileyo ukuze luphile.
KwiDenim Première Vision eMilan ngoLwesithathu—umsitho wokuqala womzimba kwiminyaka ephantse ibe mibini—uMangin uchaze imixholo emithathu ephambili eye yasasazeka kakhulu kushishino lwelaphu ledenim kunye nempahla.
UMangin uthe intwasahlobo nehlobo lika-2023 ziphawule "inguqu" kwishishini leedenim ukuba liphuhlise libe ziingcamango ezintsha ezixutyiweyo kunye neentlobo ezingalindelekanga. Ukudibana okumangalisayo kweelaphu kunye "nokuziphatha okungaqhelekanga" kwenza ilaphu lidlule iimpawu zalo zokuqala. Wongeze ngelithi xa iifektri zelaphu ziphucula amalaphu ngobuninzi obuthintekayo, ukuthamba kunye nokuguquguquka, ingqwalasela kweli xesha lonyaka ixhomekeke ekuziveni.
KwiDenim yasezidolophini, olu didi luguqula iimpawu zesitayile sempahla yokusebenza esebenzayo ibe yifashoni yemihla ngemihla eqinileyo.
Apha, umxube wehemp uthatha imo, ngokuyinxenye ngenxa yamandla efayibha. UMangin uthe ilaphu le-denim eliqhelekileyo elenziwe ngekotoni yendalo kunye nesakhiwo esomeleleyo se-3×1 liyahlangabezana neemfuno zabathengi zefashoni esebenzayo. Ukuluka okuntsonkothileyo kunye ne-jacquard enemisonto exineneyo kwandisa ukutsala okuchukumisayo. Uthe iijakethi ezineepokotho ezininzi kunye nokuthungwa zezona zinto ziphambili kule sizini, kodwa azinzima njengeezantsi. Ukugqitywa okungangeni manzi kuphucula umxholo olungele isixeko.
I-Urban Denim ikwabonelela ngendlela ephucukileyo yokuchitha i-denim. Iijini ezilungiselelwe ngendlela enobuchule zigxininisa kwinqanaba lokwenza iipateni zomsebenzi wempahla. Izinto ezisetyenziswa ngokuzinzileyo—nokuba zenziwe ngelaphu elilahliweyo okanye ngelaphu elitsha elenziwe ngeefayibha ezisetyenzisiweyo—zicocekile kwaye zinokwenza umxube wemibala ohambelanayo.
Ngokubanzi, ukuzinza kwempahla yeyona nto iphambili kwimixholo yanamhlanje. I-denim yenziwe ngekotoni ephinde yasetyenziswa, ilinen, i-hemp, i-tencel kunye nekotoni yendalo, kwaye xa idibene netekhnoloji yokonga amandla kunye nokonga amanzi, iye yaba yinto eqhelekileyo entsha. Nangona kunjalo, amalaphu amaninzi enziwa ngohlobo olunye kuphela lwefayibha, nto leyo ebonisa indlela iifektri ezinokuyenza lula ngayo inkqubo yokuphinda isetyenziswe ekupheleni kobomi bempahla.
Umxholo wesibini weDenim Première Vision, iDenim Offshoots, uvela kwimfuno eqinileyo yabathengi yokukhululeka. UMangin uthe umxholo wefashoni “ukuphumla, inkululeko kunye nenkululeko” kwaye uhlonipha kakhulu iimpahla zemidlalo.
Le mfuno yentuthuzelo kunye nokuphila kakuhle iqhuba iifektri ukuba zandise iintlobo ngeentlobo zeedenim ezithungiweyo. Izinto zedenim ezithungiweyo "ezingenamda" zentwasahlobo nehlobo ezingama-23 ziquka iimpahla zemidlalo, iibhulukhwe zokubaleka kunye neebhulukhwe ezimfutshane, kunye neejakethi zesuti ezibukeka zibukhali.
Ukuphinda uqhagamshelane nendalo kuye kwaba yinto ethandwayo ngabantu abaninzi, kwaye le ndlela ingena kwifashoni ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo. Ilaphu elinoshicilelo lwamanzi kunye nomphezulu ogobileyo lizisa imvakalelo yokuzola kwi-denim. Iziphumo zeminerali kunye needayi zendalo zinegalelo ekuqokeleleni emhlabeni. Ekuhambeni kwexesha, ukuprintwa kwe-laser yentyatyambo ethambileyo kubonakala ngathi kuye kwaphela. UMangin uthe iipateni eziphefumlelwe yi-retro zibaluleke kakhulu kwi-"urban bras" okanye ii-corsets ezisekwe kwi-denim.
Idenim yesitayile se-spa yenzelwe ukwenza iijini zivakale ngcono. Uthe umxube we-viscose unika ilaphu umvakalelo wolusu lwepesika, kwaye iingubo eziphefumlayo kunye neejakethi zesitayile se-kimono ezenziwe nge-lyocell kunye ne-modal blends ziba zezona mveliso ziphambili zale sizini.
Ibali lesithathu lefashoni, i-Enhanced Denim, ligubungela onke amanqanaba eefantasy ukusuka ekukhazimleni okugqwesileyo ukuya "kubunewunewu obupheleleyo".
I-graphic jacquard enemizobo eneepateni eziphilayo nezingabonakaliyo yimixholo ethandwayo. Uthe umbala, isiphumo sokucasha kunye nomsonto okhululekileyo zenza ilaphu lekotoni eliyi-100% kumphezulu libe likhulu. I-organza efanayo enombala esinqeni nasepokothweni yangasemva yongeza ukukhanya okuncinci kwi-denim. Ezinye iindlela, ezifana nee-corsets kunye neehempe ezinamaqhosha ane-organza inserts kwimikhono, zibonisa ulusu oluthambileyo. "Inomoya wokwenza ngokwezifiso okuphucukileyo," wongeze watsho uMangin.
I-millennium bug exhaphakileyo ichaphazela ukutsala kweGen Z kunye nabathengi abancinci. Iinkcukacha zobufazi obukhulu—ukusuka kwii-sequins, iikristale ezimile okwentliziyo kunye namalaphu acwebezelayo ukuya kwiipinki eziqinileyo kunye neprints zezilwanyana—zifanelekile kubantu abasakhasayo. UMangin uthe isitshixo kukufumana izixhobo kunye nemihombiso enokwahlulwa ngokulula ukuze isetyenziswe kwakhona.
Ixesha lokuthumela: Okthobha-15-2021