Okokuqala, ake ngikubuze umbuzo: ingabe isudi inezingxenye ezimbili: indwangu kanye nezesekeli?
Cha, impendulo ayilungile. Isudi yakhiwe ngezingxenye ezintathu: indwangu, izesekeli kanye nolwelwesi.
Indwangu nezesekeli zibaluleke kakhulu, kodwa ikhwalithi yesudi incike ku-lining, ngoba ixhumanisa izinto ezimbili ezihlukene ngokuphelele ze-ductile, indwangu nezesekeli.
Indlela eshibhile, efanelekile yengubo ukusebenzisa i-lining yokunamathela, ngisho noma yenziwe ngezandla, kodwa ukusebenzisa i-lining yokunamathela kungase kube ngaphansi kwama-yuan angu-2000 okulandelayo, izinga eliphansi le-lining yokunamathela phakathi nesikhathi esithile, uzothola ukuthi i-suit yezindwangu nezesekeli ngeke zisalingana, zidonselana kwenye indawo, kubonakala sengathi zihlukanisa ukudlala.
Indwangu enhle, isibonelo, amasudi ebhizinisi enziwe yi-YUNAI kufanele enziwe ngoboya, ilineni kanye nomhlwenga wehhashi. Ngamafuphi, kudingeka izinto zemvelo. Inhloso ukusiza indwangu yesudi kanye nezesekeli ukuthi zihambe kancane ngenkathi zisiza ukuthi ziphinde zisebenze.
Isici sesibili: yize ikhwalithi yezinto ezisetshenziswayo ithonywa yizici eziningi, intengo yendwangu manje incike kakhulu endaweni evela kuyo. Intengo yezindwangu zasekhaya ihluke kakhulu kweyezindwangu ezingenisiwe, ezivela kakhulu e-Italy naseBrithani.
Izindwangu zesudi ezihamba phambili emhlabeni zifaka: u-Ermenegildo Zegna, uLORO PIANA, uVITALE BARBERIS CANONICO, uREDA, uCERRUTI 1881, uYUNAI, okuyinkampani enkulu yoboya yase-Italy; Futhi iyisilinganiso sekhwalithi yoboya. UCHARLES CLAYTON, abane abalandelayo bangabakhiqizi boboya abadala kakhulu nabayigugu kakhulu eBrithani. Izinhlobo eziphezulu zendwangu yeshethi yiBrithani uTHOMAS MASON, uSwitzerland u-Alumo, u-Italy uMONTI, uLEGGIUNO, uFERNO njalo njalo. Isitolo esenziwe ngokwezifiso sinezinhlobo ezingaphezu kwezimbalwa zamasudi nezindwangu zeshethi empeleni sisitolo esenziwe ngokwezifiso sobungcweti kakhulu.
Ngokuvamile, la mafektri anezidingo eziqinile ezindinganisweni zobungcweti zezitolo ezenziwe ngokwezifiso. Kuphela lapho efinyelela amazinga afanele lapho eyogunyaza ukusetshenziswa kwezindwangu zawo kanye nezimpawu zokuhweba. Ngaphezu kwalokho, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi usebenzisa izindwangu zasekhaya noma ezingenisiwe, izithako empeleni ziwuboya, vele, kuzoba nezinye izithako, njenge-cashmere, kodwa izindwangu zekhwalithi ephezulu zenziwe ngezindwangu zemvelo kunezinto zokwenziwa, kodwa awukwazi ukwenza izimfuno eziqinile kakhulu ezindwangu zasekhaya.
1. Indwangu eboshiwe ngoboya obumsulwa
Indwangu yoboya ibhekisela endwangu eyenziwe ngoboya noma uboya kanye ne-polyester, i-viscose, i-acrylic, njll.
Uboya obubi kakhulu buyindwangu yengubo yezinga eliphezulu eyenziwe ngoboya bezimvu obuhlanzekile nobuhlanzekile, engaxutshwa nengxenye ethile yefayibha yamakhemikhali yoboya noma enye ifayibha yemvelo, futhi icutshungulwe ngemishini yokukama, ukukama, ukudweba, ukuphotha, ukuluka, ukudaya kanye nokuqeda izikhathi eziningi.
Inokuguquguquka okuhle lapho uboya bezilwane bunobulili obuhlukile, obuthambile, obuhlukile obuphansi kanye nobulili obumelana noboya, lapho bumunca umswakama noma bujuluka emuva ukuze buhlale bufudumele.
Izingubo ezenziwe ngoboya obuhle ziqinile futhi ngeke ziguge isikhathi eside. Zithambile kakhulu ngenxa yokuntuleka kwe-aurora. Zibushelelezi futhi zibushelelezi ngokuthungwa, zibukeka kahle, ziqinile futhi ziqinile, zithintana ngokugcwele, zisezingeni eliphezulu, zithambile futhi zemvelo ngokukhazimula njalo njalo.
Okubizwa ngokuthi i-worsted kanye ne-woolen, ngazama ukuchaza, kusukela ku-engela yezimbili, enye ingaphezu kwe-fiber, enye iwukuluka, ukuphotha i-fiber kungu-32 nangaphezulu kuka-40, bala i-fiber yamalunga abushelelezi, amancane, ubukhulu bemvelo obuphezulu, ukumelana okuhle kokuklwebheka, induduzo enhle, enye iwukuluka, indwangu eboshiwe elukiwe ngomshini wezindwangu omuhle, ukuvimbela ukuqhekeka kwe-fiber, izinga eliqinile liphezulu, indwangu yoboya, ijoyinti, kulula ukuliphula, umehluko wokumelana nokuguguleka kwemvelo, ubuningi abulungile.
Izindwangu eziboshiwe ngoboya obumsulwa zincane kakhulu, zinobuso obubushelelezi nemigqa ecacile.
Umzimba uqinile, uthambile futhi uyanwebeka.
Bamba izinto ngemuva kokuzikhulula, ngokuyisisekelo akukho ukugoqa, noma ngabe kukhona ukugoqa okuncane kunganyamalala ngesikhathi esifushane kakhulu.
Ukuhlonza indwangu yoboya emsulwa:
Indwangu yoboya emsulwa enombala wemvelo othambile kanye nomphumela omuhle wokushisa iyindlela yokuqala yokwenza amasudi nama-overcoat asezingeni eliphezulu.
Kodwa manje izindwangu eziningi ezifana noboya, njengokuthuthukiswa kobuchwepheshe bezindwangu, sezifinyelele ezingeni lamakhasimende amaningi okunzima ukulibona, kodwa umbala, ukufudumala, umuzwa nokunye kuncane kakhulu kunezindwangu zoboya ezihlanzekile.
Okulandelayo kwethula izindlela eziningana zokuhlonza indwangu yoboya ehlanzekile, ukuze ubhekisele kukho ekukhetheni izingubo nofulawa.
Okokuqala, thinta.
Izindwangu zoboya ezihlanzekile zivame ukuzwakala zibushelelezi, zinde zoboya kanye nomuzwa wokuqaqamba kwezinwele okubushelelezi, okuphambene. Kanye ne-fiber yamakhemikhali ehlanganisiwe noma emsulwa, eminye ithambile kancane, eminye ithambile kakhulu futhi ikhululekile, futhi inomuzwa wokunamathela.
Okwesibili, bheka umbala.
Umbala wendwangu yoboya obumsulwa uthambile futhi ungokwemvelo, ukhanya futhi awuphelelwa yisikhathi. Ngokuphambene nalokho, ubuso befayibha yamakhemikhali exubile noma emsulwa, noma ukukhanya kumnyama, noma kunomuzwa wokukhanya.
Okwesithathu, bheka ukuthamba.
Bamba indwangu ngokuqinile ngesandla, bese uyikhulula ngokushesha ukuze ubone ukuthi indwangu inwebeka kangakanani. Izinga lokubuya kwendwangu yoboya obumsulwa liphezulu, lingabuyela ngokushesha esimweni salo sokuqala, kanye nemikhiqizo yefayibha exubile noma yamakhemikhali, ukumelana kwemibimbi akukuhle, iningi lamamaki emibimbi asobala kakhulu, noma ukululama kancane.
Okwesine. Ukuhlonza ukusha.
Thatha inqwaba yentambo, sebenzisa umlilo, i-fiber yoboya emsulwa inuka njengezinwele ezishayo, i-fiber yamakhemikhali inuka njengepulasitiki eshayo. Uma izinhlayiya ziba nzima ngemva kokusha, kulapho kuba nezingxenye eziningi ze-fiber yamakhemikhali.
1. Ukuhlonza impande eyodwa.
Izinwele ngaphansi kwe-microscope ukuze ubone zonke izilwane zinezikali, uma izinwele ezinde zithathwa njengezibekwe ngenhla izikhathi ezimbalwa zizohamba phezulu noma phansi (ukuze uphumelele leli khono kungathatha izinwele kusukela ekuhlolweni kokuqala), uma kuyindwangu evamile, ukhipha uboya obuyimpande, usike u-2 cm wezigaba ezimbili zibe yi-fiber eyodwa ngaphansi kwesandla uhlikihle ezine noma ezinhlanu, ngeke zinyakaze.
2. Indwangu exutshwe ngoboya bezimvu ne-polyester
Indwangu exutshwe ngoboya, okungukuthi i-cashmere, i-polyester, i-spandex, izinwele zonogwaja kanye neminye imicu kanye nezindwangu zendwangu ezixutshwe ngoboya. Indwangu exutshwe ngoboya ne-polyester, ngaphansi kwelanga, ubuso bunendawo ekhanyayo, indwangu iqinile futhi iqinile, iyanwebeka kahle, ibamba indwangu ikhululekile, cishe ayinamibimbi.
Isiqondiso se-warp, i-warp, ukuminyana kwe-warp
— Isiqondiso sobude bendwangu;
Izintambo eziseceleni zibizwa ngokuthi izintambo ezigobile;
Inani lemicu ehlelwe ngaphakathi kwe-intshi eli-1 liyi-warp density;
Isiqondiso se-Weft, ukugcwalisa kanye nobuningi bokugcwalisa
— Isiqondiso sobubanzi bendwangu;
Intambo ibizwa ngokuthi i-weft, futhi inani lezintambo ezingaphakathi kwe-intshi liyi-weft density.
Ubuningi
— Isetshenziselwa ukumela inani lezintambo ngobude beyunithi ngayinye yendwangu yokuhamba, ngokuvamile inani lezintambo ezingaphakathi kwe-intshi eli-1 noma amasentimitha ayi-10. Izindinganiso zikazwelonke zaseShayina zithi inani lezintambo ezingaphakathi kwamasentimitha ayi-10 lisetshenziselwa ukumela ubuningi, kodwa amabhizinisi ezindwangu asasebenzisa inani lezintambo ezingaphakathi kwe-intshi eli-1 ukumela ubuningi.
Isibonelo, igama elivame ukubonakala elithi “45×45/108×58” libhekisela ku-45 weft kanye ne-warp yarns enobukhulu obungu-108 kanye no-58 ngokulandelana.
Ububanzi
— Ububanzi obusebenzayo bendwangu buvame ukuvezwa ngamasentimitha noma ngamasentimitha. Okuvamile ngamasentimitha angu-36, amasentimitha angu-44, amasentimitha angu-56-60, njll., okubizwa ngokuthi kuncane, okuphakathi nendawo kanye nobubanzi, ngokulandelana. Izindwangu eziphakeme ngaphezu kwamasentimitha angu-60 zibanzi kakhulu, ngokuvamile zibizwa ngokuthi indwangu ebanzi.
Ububanzi buvame ukuphawulwa ngemuva kobuningi. Isibonelo, uma indwangu okukhulunywe ngayo ku: 3 ingezwa nobubanzi, izovezwa ngokuthi “45×45/108×58/60” “, okungukuthi ububanzi bungamasentimitha angu-60.
Isisindo
— Isisindo segremu lendwangu ngokuvamile siyigremu yesisindo sendwangu ngamamitha-skwele. Isisindo segremu siyinkomba ebalulekile yobuchwepheshe yezindwangu ezilukiwe, kanti isisindo segremu sivame ukuthathwa njengenkomba ebalulekile yobuchwepheshe yezindwangu zoboya.
Isisindo segremu se-denim ngokuvamile sichazwa ngokuthi “OZ”, okungukuthi, inani lama-ounces esisindo sendwangu ngeyadi lesikwele, njengama-ounces angu-7, ama-ounces angu-12 e-denim, njll.
Okudaywe ngentambo
EJapane, ibizwa ngokuthi “indwangu edaywe”, okubhekisela enkambisweni yokudaya intambo noma intambo bese ulukwa indwangu ngentambo enemibala. Lolu hlobo lwendwangu lubizwa ngokuthi “indwangu edaywe ngentambo”. Amafektri akhiqiza indwangu edaywe ngentambo ngokuvamile abizwa ngokuthi amafektri okudaya nokuluka, njenge-denim, futhi izindwangu eziningi zehembe zidaywe ngentambo.
3. Indwangu ehlanganisiwe yoboya ne-viscose
Ukukhazimula kufiphele.
Ukuzizwa kabi kakhulu kubuthakathaka, kanti ukuzizwa koboya kukhululekile.
Lolu hlobo lwendwangu alunwebeki futhi aluqinile kangako kunendwangu ehlanganisiwe yoboya obumsulwa kanye ne-polyester yoboya, ehlanganiswe kahle njengoboya. Uma okuqukethwe yi-viscose kuphakeme, indwangu kulula ukuyigoqa.
Indwangu yendabuko efana nefayibha yamakhemikhali emsulwa efana noboya, i-viscose yendabuko, ifayibha yoboya yokwenziwa njengezinto zokusetshenziswa zendwangu efana noboya, ukucwebezela okufiphele, umuzwa othambile, ukuntuleka komuzwa oqinile. Ngenxa yokuthi ukunwebeka kuphansi, kubonakala kulula ukuqhekeka, futhi akulula ukubuna. Kuyindlela ephumelelayo yokuhlonza indwangu ye-viscose ukuthi amandla entambo ekhishwe endwangu ayancipha ngokusobala uma imanzi kunalapho yomile. Ngaphezu kwalokho, le ndwangu efana noboya iyaqina futhi iqine ngemva kokucwiliswa. Ngokuthuthuka kwesayensi nobuchwepheshe, imikhiqizo yoboya yokulingisa ngombala, umuzwa, nokuqina nayo iye yaba njalo.
Izinhlobo Eziyinhloko:
Izinwele zonogwaja
Ngokuvamile, ingxenye ethile yoboya bonogwaja noboya iyahlanganiswa futhi ilukwe. Izici zejezi lonogwaja zisezintanjeni zalo ezincane, umuzwa obushelelezi nofana ne-wax, ukucambalala okuthambile nokuthambile ebusweni, kanye nokuthamba okuhle. Kukhululekile futhi kungokwemvelo ukukugqoka, futhi ukucambalala ebusweni obuphakathi kulula ukukuhla.
Uma inqubo yokwenza ijezi kuqala bese kuba ukudaya (okungukuthi ukuluka bese kuba ukudaya) isetshenziswa, umbala kanye nokukhazimula kuzoba msulwa futhi kube kuhle kakhulu, kube ne-lattice ehlukile, efaneleke kakhulu izingubo zangaphandle zabesifazane abasebasha.
Izinwele ze-fiber zamakhemikhali
Isici esivamile sezingubo ukukhululeka kwazo.
Yiba njengehembe le-acrylic unshirt, uluke ngentambo enkulu ye-acrylic ngokuvamile, ukuma kwayo koboya kuzwakala kuqinile, kunombala futhi kuyakhazimula, ikhwalithi yendwangu ilula, ukukhukhumala okuthambile, izinga lokubuyiselwa komswakama lingu-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla okuphuka kwefayibha made kunefayibha yoboya, ngeke aqhume, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kuyabuyiselwa izinga liphansi kunelaboya, gcina ucansi olufudumele lungaphansi kwejazi loboya elihlanzekile, intengo ishibhile, kodwa kulula ukuyilungisa, ifanele izingubo zezingane.
Muva nje, imakethe yamazwe ngamazwe ye-acrylic, i-polyamide fiber blended yarn, i-modified acrylic imitation mohair yarn, ifana ne-sweaters yemvelo enogwaja, izingubo ze-mohair.
Uboya bezilwane obuhlanganiswe nemicu yamakhemikhali
Inezici "ezihambisanayo" zezinwele zezilwane ezahlukahlukene kanye nemicu yamakhemikhali, futhi ukubukeka kwayo kunoboya, amandla okunwebeka ayathuthuka, futhi izindleko zejezi ziyancishiswa. Ingumkhiqizo omuhle futhi ongabizi.
Kodwa kujezi elihlanganisiwe, kukhona inkinga yokuthi umphumela wokudaya awulungile ngenxa yekhono elihlukile lokudaya nekhono lokumunca imibala lezinhlobo ezahlukene zemicu.
4. Izinto ezifana noboya bokwenziwa obufana nefayibha
AmaNgisi ayengabokuqala ukutadisha ukukhishwa kweprotheyini kuglue yezilwane ukuze kwenziwe imicu yamaprotheni yokwenziwa.
Ngo-1935, abanye abantu e-Italy bazama ukukhipha ushizi ebisini ukuze benze uboya bokwenziwa.
Kusukela ngaleso sikhathi, amanye amazwe aphumelele ekwenzeni i-fiber yokwenziwa nge-soybean protein kanye ne-peanut protein.
Ngenxa yezinkinga ngezindleko zokusetshenziswa kanye nokukhiqiza imicu enjalo, ukukhiqizwa kuncane kakhulu.
I-YUNAI ifiphele, ukuntuleka komuzwa oqinile, ngenxa yokungaguquguquki kahle, kulula kakhulu ukuyibona igoqekile, futhi akulula ukuyinyamalala.
Kunezinhlobo ezimbili zemicu eyenziwe ngumuntu: i-fibre evuselelwe kanye ne-fibre yamakhemikhali. I-fibre evuselelwe iyi-fibre ye-viscose eyenziwe ngokhuni kanye ne-fibre yotshani ngokucubungula amakhemikhali.
I-fiber yamakhemikhali iyi-fiber yokwenziwa eyenziwe ngophethiloli, igesi yemvelo, amalahle kanye nemikhiqizo yezolimo.
Ngokwesimo nokusetshenziswa kwemicu eyenziwe ngumuntu, kunezinhlobo ezintathu: i-rayon, i-rayon kanye noboya.
Izinhlobo ezibalulekile zine-viscose fiber, i-acetate fiber, i-copper ammonia fiber njalo njalo.
I-fibre evuselelwe ingahlukaniswa ibe yi-cellulose fiber evuselelwe, i-cellulose ester fiber, i-protein fiber kanye neminye i-polymer fiber yemvelo.
Izakhiwo zayo uma kuqhathaniswa nezintambo zamakhemikhali, izintambo eziyisisekelo.
Indwangu yefayibha eyenziwe ngumuntu ngokuyisisekelo ibhekisela ku-filament yefayibha ye-viscose kanye nendwangu yefayibha eyisisekelo, okungukuthi ukotini owenziwe ngumuntu abantu abawujwayele, i-rayon njll.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, ihlanganisa nengxenye yendwangu ecebile yefayibha kanye nendwangu yefayibha enobude obuphakathi phakathi kwe-filament kanye ne-staple.
Ngakho-ke, izakhiwo zezindwangu zefayibha yomuntu zinqunywa kakhulu yizakhiwo zefayibha ye-viscose.
Izindwangu ze-Rayon neze-rayon zithambile uma uzithinta, ziyaphefumula futhi zikhululekile ukuzigqoka, futhi zinombala ogqamile.
Indwangu yefayibha eyenziwe ngumuntu ine-hygroscopicity enhle, futhi i-hygroscopicity yayo iyona engcono kakhulu kwifayibha yamakhemikhali. Kodwa amandla ayo amanzi aphansi kakhulu, angaba ngu-50% wamandla okomile kuphela, futhi izinga lokuncibilika kwendwangu likhulu, ngakho-ke kufanele inciphe kusenesikhathi ngaphambi kokuba ukusika kube ngcono.
Indwangu evamile ye-viscose inezici zokwakheka okuhle, ukuqina okubi, ukuqina kanye nokumelana nemibimbi, ngakho-ke ingubo yayo ayigcini kahle isimo sayo futhi ithambekele ekushwabaneni.
Indwangu ye-viscose fiber inokumelana okuhle kwe-asidi ne-alkali, ukumelana nokukhanya kwelanga kanye nokunye ukumelana nemithi.
5. Izinto ezifana noboya be-fiber yamakhemikhali ahlanzekile
Ngokuvamile, i-fibre yokwenziwa isetshenziswa njengento eyinhloko, i-fibre yokwenziwa noma isilika enemibala njengentambo esekelayo, kanti i-fibre entsha yokwenziwa isetshenziswa njengento eyinhloko, enesakhiwo sendwangu esifanele. Lolu hlobo lwendwangu lunezinhlobo ezimbili zesitayela semvelo esifana ne-bamboo.
Inesici sesitayela semvelo sefayibha yemvelo.
Indwangu inombala okhanyayo, icwebezela kahle, iqinile futhi iyanwebeka, ifanele umphakathi.
Uboya be-fiber yamakhemikhali, isici esivamile sezingubo silula.
Yiba njengehembe le-acrylic unshirt, uluke ngentambo enkulu ye-acrylic ngokuvamile, ukuma kwayo koboya kuzwakala kuqinile, kunombala futhi kuyakhazimula, ikhwalithi yendwangu ilula, ukukhukhumala okuthambile, izinga lokubuyiselwa komswakama lingu-0-4.5% kuphela, amandla okuphuka kwefayibha made kunefayibha yoboya, ngeke aqhume, kodwa ukuguquguquka kwayo kuyabuyiselwa izinga liphansi kunelaboya, gcina ucansi olufudumele lungaphansi kwejazi loboya elihlanzekile, intengo ishibhile, kodwa kulula ukuyilungisa, ifanele izingubo zezingane.
Muva nje, imakethe yamazwe ngamazwe ye-acrylic, i-poly-amide fiber blended yarn, i-modified acrylic imitation mohair yarn, ifana nehembe nezinwele zonogwaja zemvelo, izingubo ze-mohair.
Uboya obuhlanganisiwe bezinwele zezilwane kanye nefayibha yamakhemikhali, obunezinwele zezilwane ezahlukahlukene kanye nefayibha yamakhemikhali “izici ezihambisanayo”, ukubukeka kwayo kunomuzwa woboya, amandla okunwebeka ayathuthuka, kunciphisa izindleko zejezi, kuyimikhiqizo eshibhile futhi emihle.
Kodwa kujezi elihlanganisiwe, kukhona inkinga yokuthi izinhlobo ezahlukene zemicu zinekhono elihlukile lokudaya nombala, okwenza umphumela wokudaya ungabi muhle.
Hlukanisa phakathi kwezinto ezifana ne-fiber yamakhemikhali kanye nendwangu yoboya emsulwa:
Indwangu efana noboya yenziwe kakhulu ngefayibha yamakhemikhali, kanti ifayibha ye-viscose ingaphezu kwalokho, njengoboya obude obuphakathi be-polyester/viscose, i-polyester emsulwa kanye neminye imikhiqizo efana noboya.
Okokuqala, ukukhanya kuhlukile.
Indwangu yoboya obumsulwa ithambile kakhulu futhi ingokwemvelo, inombala ongakhangi kangako. Indwangu yoboya eyenziwe nge-fiber yamakhemikhali inombala ocebile futhi ikhanya kakhulu. Uma ubheka ngokucophelela ngaphansi kwelanga, uzovame ukubona amaphuzu okukhanya akhanyayo futhi akhazimulayo.
Leli phuzu lokulingisa uboya obupholile ukuze bufane nendwangu yoboya lingase lingahlukaniseki.
Okwesibili, ukuzizwa kanye nokunwebeka kuhlukile.
Izindwangu zoboya ezimsulwa zizwakala zithambile, zithambile kancane, zinomzimba onethambo, zishwabene kancane kodwa aziqinile, zithambile kodwa aziqondile;
Nakuba i-polyester, ibukeka njengoboya, kodwa izwakala ithambile futhi ibushelelezi, ayinamathambo omzimba, imibimbi kakhulu, ibuya kancane.
Okwesithathu, shisa isilika ngemva kokudweba.
Intambo yendwangu yoboya emsulwa ingabonakala ngemva kokungalingani kwentambo yoboya, ubude obuhlukile, ukugoba kwemvelo, kanye ne-viscose kulingisa ubude bentambo yendwangu yoboya, ukujiya kuyafana.
Ngemva kokusha, ngemva kokusha kancane kancane komlilo, ukushiya umlilo uqhubeka nokusha, izinwele zihambisana nephunga, umlotha, ikhiyubhu emnyama ecwebezelayo, ukusonta okungukuthi kube yimpuphu yezindwangu zoboya ezihlanzekile, futhi eduze komlilo kuyasha, kusha ngokushesha, ilangabi eliphuzi, ukusha kwe-clamp, umlotha ompunga okhanyayo ondiza kalula, omhlophe futhi ushiye inqwaba ye-polyester/viscose inzima ukuyichoboza.
Iphinde ishiye iqhubu elimnyama ngemva kokusha.
Kusukela kwezimbili kuya kwezimbili noma ngaphezulu zezithako noma indwangu ehlanganisiwe ehlanganisiwe: uboya/i-viscose, uboya/i-polyester, uboya/isilika, uboya/i-viscose/i-spandex, njll., ayidingi nje kuphela ukuqonda ngokuqinile izinhlobo ezahlukene ze-fiber morphology kanye nezakhiwo, futhi indlela yokusebenzisa ukuhlonza i-fiber eminingi, kusukela ekubukeni futhi, ukushisa ukusha kuya ekuhlolweni ngemva kokuhlolwa, ingafinyelela esiphethweni ngokuphephile.
6. Uboya obufakwe i-mercer
Izinto zoboya ezisebenzisa i-mercerizing ziyizinto zoboya ezivamile ngemva kokwelashwa ngamakhemikhali nokwelashwa ngokomzimba, ukubhujiswa kwesikali sefayibha yoboya, kanye ne-ejenti yokuhlola ngamakhemikhali, zenza uboya bube bushelelezi, bucwebezele, bunganciphi lapho bugezwa, bufaneleke izingubo zomshado.
Uboya obuyi-mercerizing buyindlela yokwelapha imikhiqizo yoboya enqubweni yokwenziwa kwe-mercerizing yokudaya nokuqeda uboya.
Uboya budinga ukucwiliswa nge-chlorine yi-Basolan DC noma buphathwe nge-protease ukuze kubhujiswe izikali zobuso boboya futhi kuncishiswe umehluko phakathi kwe-friction coefficient ngesikhathi sokunyakaza koboya phambili nangemuva. Ngemva kokwelashwa, ukukhanya koboya kuyanda, okwaziwa kakhulu ngokuthi uboya obune-mercerized.
Uboya obune-mercerized bungalukwa ngoboya obumsulwa noma buhlanganiswe.
Izici eziyinhloko ukulwa nokushwabana, ukugezwa ngomshini, kanye nokungaphuzi.
Ubuchwepheshe boboya obune-mercerized baqala maphakathi nawo-1990, buwubuchwepheshe obusha bokudaya nokuqeda obuthuthukiswe ngokusekelwe kubuchwepheshe bendabuko bokuncibilikisa uboya kanye nokuvimbela ukuncibilika.
Indwangu yoboya elungisiwe inomuzwa we-cashmere kanye nokukhanya okusilika.
Ngenxa yalezi zici, imikhiqizo ye-mercerizing yoboya yasheshe yathandwa.
Kuze kube manje, uboya obune-mercerized buthandwa kakhulu, isabelo semakethe sidlule inani loboya obuvamile.
Kunemibono ehlukene yoboya obune-mercerized eShayina nakwamanye amazwe emhlabeni. EShayina, uboya obukhishwe i-phosphorus bubizwa ngokuthi uboya obune-mercerized, kanti uboya bezimvu bamazwe ngamazwe buphekwa ngomusi oshisayo, futhi bunwetshwe ngo-30% ~ 50%. Ngemuva kokuthi bupholiswe ngamanzi abandayo futhi bubunjwe, uboya bezimvu obude nobuncane bubizwa ngokuthi uboya obune-mercerized.
7. Uboya
Uboya ngokuvamile bubizwa ngokuthi indwangu yefayibha yoboya.
I-fibre yoboya ihlanganiswe ngama-molecule amaprotheni, ukubonakala kwengqimba eyingqayizivele yesakhiwo esiqinile se-horny scale, imbozwe kahle, isakhiwo se-flake sincane kakhulu, inzuzo yaso ukuvimbela ukungcola ku-fibre, ngakho-ke, izingubo zoboya azingcoli kalula.
Izihlanzi zokomisa zivame ukuhlangana nezindwangu ezahlukahlukene lapho ziwasha izingubo, kanti nezingubo zoboya nazo zivamile.
Isizathu sokuthi uboya bukhiqize ukukhanya okukhulu yile:
(1) Ingqimba yesikali esinama-horny ebusweni be-fiber yoboya igugile kancane;
(2) Uthuli nokungcola kuyakhuhla kancane bese kunamathela emseleni, ukuze ubuso bendwangu bube bushelelezi, okubangela ukuphambuka okuvamile kokukhanya, okuholela ekukhanyeni okukhulu.
Izindlela zokususa ukukhanya:
(1) Isinkwa singasontwa sibe ufulawa bese sisakazwa ekukhanyeni, ngensimbi efakwe ku-ayine;
(2) Ukuqoqwa: Cwilisa isixazululo se-acetic acid ngokugxila okungu-3-5% kanye nokushisa okungu-50℃ imizuzu emi-3-5, bese ugeza ngamanzi acwebile.
Uviniga omhlophe ungasetshenziswa futhi.
(3) Hlanza ngebhulashi uma ugeza.
I-fibre iyi-fiber yemvelo, ingumphumela wembewu yezitshalo, iziqu namaqabunga amaningi ane-fiber yamakhemikhali engenawo ikhwalithi enhle, i-gene ephilizayo kakhulu ku-fiber kakotini, i-hygroscopicity inhle, igqoke ukumuncwa kokujuluka, ukuvuleka komoya, ikhululekile, futhi i-hemp ipholile futhi ipholile, ubumnene, ayinamathele ezicini ezisetshenziswa kabanzi embonini yezingubo, yamukelwa ngumthengi.
Izinzuzo: ithambile futhi iyanwebeka esandleni, ithambile futhi iyacwebezela ngokwemvelo, ikhululekile futhi iyinhle ukuyigqoka, inomuzwa wezinga eliphezulu, imunca umswakama kahle, ayifudumezi kalula, igcina ukushisa kahle, imelana nokugoba, ikakhulukazi ngemva kokucubungula izingubo noku-ayina, ilungisa kangcono i-pleat shaping kanye nokuvikela ukuma kwengubo;
Qaphela: Izinga lokushisa lokuwasha akufanele libe phezulu kakhulu, ungahlikihli noma ucindezele ukuze ugweme ukushiswa yilanga.
Indawo yokucindezela: Uku-ayina okumanzi, uku-ayina impahla komile ngakolunye uhlangothi.
Okubi: ukumelana ne-alkali, ukushwabana, ukushwabana okulula.
8. Indwangu yoboya ne-polyester
Indwangu yoboya-i-polyester (uboya-i-polyester): Indwangu eyenziwe ngemicu exutshwe ngoboya ne-polyester, uhlobo oluvame kakhulu lwendwangu exutshwe ngoboya.
Indwangu eyenziwe ngoboya bezimvu kanye nentambo exutshwe nge-polyester.
Isilinganiso esivamile sokuxuba uboya ne-polyester singama-45∶55, okungeke nje kugcine inzuzo yoboya, kodwa futhi kunikeze ukusebenza okugcwele enzuzweni ye-polyester.
Cishe zonke izindwangu eziqinile nezinobuthi zinezinhlobo ezifanayo zokuhlanganiswa koboya ne-polyester.
Phakathi kwazo, indwangu encane enezimbali ezincane eboshiwe yoboya-i-polyester ebizwa nangokuthi i-cool, eyaziwa ngokuthi i-wool really cool, iyisici esibonakalisa kakhulu ukuhlanganiswa koboya-i-polyester kwenye yezindwangu.
Kukhona i-double-ply warp kanye ne-weft, i-double-ply warp, i-single-ply weft kanye ne-single-ply warp kanye ne-weft.
Ngokuvamile kunezintambo ezimbili zabesilisa ezingama-50 ~ 70, izindwangu ezincane ezinezintambo ezimbili zabesilisa ezingama-100 ~ 120.
Isisindo sendwangu singaba ngu-170 ~ 190 g/m2.
Uma kuqhathaniswa ne-tweed yoboya, i-tweed encane yoboya-i-polyester ilula futhi ilula ngokuthungwa, inokubuyiselwa okuhle kwemibimbi, iqinile futhi imelana nokuguguleka, kulula ukuyigeza, yomile ngokushesha, ihlala isikhathi eside, izinzile ngosayizi, kodwa ayibushelelezi njengoboya.
Uma usebenzisa i-polyester elula njengezinto zokusetshenziswa, ubuso besilika bukhanya.
Uma kusetshenziswa uboya bezilwane obukhethekile njengoboya be-cashmere noma bekamela ezintweni zokuxuba, buzozwakala bushelela futhi bunamathela kakhulu.
Isilinganiso esivamile sokuxuba uboya ne-polyester singu-45:55, okungeke nje kugcine izinzuzo zoboya, kodwa futhi kunikeze ukudlala ngezinzuzo ze-polyester.
Izinzuzo: uboya obuhlanganiswe ne-polyester, ukukhanya nokuthungwa okukhanyayo, ukusebenza kahle kokubuyisa imibimbi.
Ihlala isikhathi eside, kulula ukuyigeza futhi uyomise, izinzile ngobukhulu, iqinile uma uyigoqe
Amaphuzu okugeza: cwilisa ngamanzi abandayo imizuzu eyi-15 kuqala, bese ugeza ngensipho yokwenziwa ejwayelekile, izinga lokushisa loketshezi akufanele lidlule ama-degrees angu-45, ikhola, i-cuff endaweni engcolile ungasebenzisa ibhulashi loboya elithambile ukuxubha ngobumnene, ngemva kokuhlanza lihlanzekile, lingasonta kancane, lithenge umoya opholile, lingangenisi umoya, akufanele lomiswe, funa ngoba selivuthiwe libangele ukushwabana.
Indwangu engu-9.T/R
Kungenye yezici zendwangu ye-T/R ukwenza ijakethi yekhola emile, ijakethi ye-lapel kanye nokugqoka okuvamile ngenani elikhulu lendwangu ye-T/R enemibala egqamile noma enemibala egqamile, ekhanyayo noma enombala okhanyayo.
Indwangu ye-T/R iyindwangu exutshwe nge-polyester viscose. I-polyester viscose blended uhlobo lwenhlanganisela ehambisanayo. I-polyester viscose ayigcini nje ngokuba ukotini, uboya, kanye nobude obuphakathi nendawo. Indwangu yoboya eyaziwa ngokuthi “ibhasi elisheshayo”. Uma i-polyester ingaphansi kuka-50%, lolu hlobo lwendwangu exutshwe lungagcina i-polyester iqinile, imelana nemibimbi, izinzile ngobukhulu, igezeka futhi iguge. Ukuxuba i-viscose fiber kuthuthukisa ukungena komoya kwendwangu kanye nokumelana nembobo encibilikayo. Izimo zokubopha kanye nezokulwa ne-static zendwangu zancishiswa.
Sebenzisa u-65/35 noma u-67/33 ukuze uthole isilinganiso se-polyester/viscid-blend. Ingxube ye-polyester/viscose ifana ne-polyester/viscose. Izici zalolu hlobo lwendwangu ehlanganisiwe zibushelelezi futhi zihlanzekile, imibala ekhanyayo, ukuma koboya obuqinile, ukuqina kwesandla okuhle, ukumuncwa okuhle komswakama; Kodwa ukuhlala isikhathi eside akukuhle.
Izinzuzo: iqinile, ayibimbi, inosayizi ozinzile, iyagezwa futhi iyagqokwa.
Kungathuthukisa ukungena komoya kwendwangu, kunciphise ukunamathela kanye nomkhuba wokungaguquguquki.
Izindawo zokuwasha: Umshini wokuwasha ungasetshenziswa, ungawuhliki ngebhulashi, ukuze ugweme ukugcotshwa, ukome ngakolunye uhlangothi.
10. I-NC enamandla kakhulu
Indwangu ye-NC enobuningi obukhulu uhlobo lwendwangu exutshwe noma ehlanganiswe ne-poly-amide (inayiloni) kanye nentambo kakotini.
Lo mkhiqizo uhlanganisa izinzuzo ze-nylon kanye ne-cotton warn.
Amandla okuguga e-nylon aqala phakathi kwemicu yemvelo kanye nemicu yamakhemikhali. Ukumuncwa komswakama kwe-nylon kungcono kunokwe-polyester, futhi induduzo yayo yokuguga kanye nezakhiwo zokudaya zingcono kuneze-polyester. Ngakho-ke, ukumuncwa komswakama kanye nenduduzo yokuguga kwentambo kakotini ngeke kuncishiswe uma kuhlanganiswa noma kuhlanganiswe nentambo kakotini.
Inayiloni inokuguquguquka okuhle kakhulu. Ngemva kokuxuba noma ukuhlanganisa nentambo kakotini, ukuqina kwendwangu kuyathuthuka.
Ububi bendwangu ye-NC buwukuthi: ngenxa ye-nylon ehilelekile ekuhlanganiseni noma ekuhlanganiseni, ukumelana nokushisa nokumelana nokukhanya kwendwangu akukuhle, naka ukuwasha noku-ayina enkambisweni yokusebenzisa ukuze kuhlangatshezwane nezimo, ukuze kugwenywe umonakalo.
Izici zayo zesitayela ezivelele kakhulu: akulula ukuzigqoka, zithambile futhi zikhululekile, kulula ukuzihlanza.
Ungashi elangeni, ungakhiphi.
Izindawo zokugeza: Ungazomisi zihlanzeke, zomise ebumnyameni.
Indlela yokulungisa: ungagqoki isizini, buyisela emuva eqoqweni eliyisicaba lesikhwama sepulasitiki.
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Disemba 17-2024