I ke ola o kēlā me kēia lā, lohe mau mākou he ulana maʻemaʻe kēia, he ulana twill kēia, he ulana satin kēia, he ulana jacquard kēia a pēlā aku. Akā ʻo ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, ua nalowale ka poʻe he nui ma hope o ka hoʻolohe ʻana. He aha ka maikaʻi o ia mea? I kēia lā, e kamaʻilio kākou e pili ana i nā ʻano a me ka ʻike ʻana o kēia mau lole ʻekolu.
1. ʻO ka ulana maʻemaʻe, ka ulana twill, a me ka satin e pili ana i ke ʻano o ka lole
ʻO ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo ka ulana maʻemaʻe, ka ulana twill a me ka ulana satin (satin) e pili ana i ke ʻano o ka lole. Ma ke ʻano o ke ʻano wale nō, ʻaʻole maikaʻi a maikaʻi ʻole paha nā mea ʻekolu, akā he ʻano ponoʻī ko kēlā me kēia ma muli o ka ʻokoʻa o ke ʻano.
(1)Lole Maʻemaʻe
He huaʻōlelo laulā ia no ka lole pulupulu ulana maʻemaʻe o nā kikoʻī like ʻole. ʻO kēia mau mea ka ulana maʻemaʻe a me ka ulana maʻemaʻe ulana loli, nā lole ulana pulupulu maʻemaʻe like ʻole me nā kikoʻī a me nā ʻano like ʻole. E like me: lole maʻemaʻe nui, lole maʻemaʻe waena, lole maʻemaʻe maikaʻi, poplin gauze, poplin hapalua-wili, poplin laina piha, olonā hemp a me ka lole maʻemaʻe palaki, a pēlā aku. He 65 mau ʻano i ka huina.
Ua ulana ʻia nā olonā wiliwili a me nā olonā ulana i nā olonā ʻē aʻe a pau. He paʻa ke ʻano o ka lole, he ʻōpala, a he laumania ka ʻili. ʻO ka laulā, hana ʻia nā lole humuhumu kiʻekiʻe me nā lole ulana maʻemaʻe.
He nui nā wahi ulana o ka lole ulana maʻemaʻe, ʻano paʻa, ʻili laumania, like ka hopena o ke ʻano ma ke alo a me ke kua, māmā a lahilahi, a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka permeability ea. ʻO ke ʻano o ka ulana maʻemaʻe e hoʻoholo ai i kona haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa. Ma ke ʻano laulā, he haʻahaʻa ke kumukūʻai o ka lole ulana maʻemaʻe. Akā aia kekahi mau lole ulana maʻemaʻe i ʻoi aku ke kumukūʻai, e like me kekahi mau lole humuhumu kiʻekiʻe.
(2)Lole Twill
He huaʻōlelo laulā ia no nā lole pulupulu me nā kikoʻī like ʻole o ka ulana twill, me ka ulana twill a me nā loli ulana twill, a me nā lole pulupulu twill like ʻole me nā kikoʻī a me nā ʻano like ʻole. E like me: yarn twill, yarn serge, half-line serge, yarn gabardine, half-line gabardine, yarn khaki, half-line khaki, full-line khaki, brushed twill, etc., he 44 mau ʻano.
I loko o ka lole twill, ua ulana ʻia ka warp a me ka weft ma ka liʻiliʻi i kēlā me kēia ʻelua olonā, ʻo ia hoʻi, 2/1 a i ʻole 3/1. ʻO ka hoʻohui ʻana i nā kiko ulana warp a me ka weft e hoʻololi i ke ʻano o ka lole ua kapa ʻia ʻo ia he lole twill. ʻO ke ʻano o kēia ʻano lole, he mānoanoa iki a he ʻano ʻekolu-dimensional ikaika. ʻO ka helu o nā helu he 40, 60, a pēlā aku.
(3)Lole Satin
He huaʻōlelo laulā ia no nā ʻano kikoʻī like ʻole o ka lole pulupulu ulana satin. Hoʻokomo pū kēia me nā ʻano ulana satin like ʻole a me nā ulana satin, nā ʻano kikoʻī like ʻole a me nā kaila o ka ulana satin.
Ua ulana ʻia ka warp a me ka weft ma ka liʻiliʻi i kēlā me kēia ʻekolu olonā. Ma waena o nā lole, ʻo ka mānoanoa ka mea kiʻekiʻe loa a me ka mānoanoa loa, a ʻoi aku ka laumania o ka ʻili lole, ʻoi aku ka palupalu, a piha i ka ʻōlinolino, akā ʻoi aku ke kiʻekiʻe o ke kumukūʻai o ka huahana, no laila e pipiʻi iki ke kumukūʻai.
He ʻano paʻakikī ke kaʻina hana ulana satin, a hoʻokahi wale nō o nā olonā warp a me weft e uhi ana i ka ʻili ma ke ʻano o nā lōʻihi lana. ʻO ka satin warp e uhi ana i ka ʻili ua kapa ʻia ʻo warp satin; ʻo ka weft lana e uhi ana i ka ʻili ua kapa ʻia ʻo weft satin. ʻO ka lōʻihi o ka lana e hoʻolilo i ka ʻili o ka lole i ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka luster a maʻalahi hoʻi e hōʻike i ka mālamalama. No laila, inā ʻoe e nānā pono i ka lole satin pulupulu, e ʻike ʻoe i kahi ʻālohilohi palupalu.
Inā hoʻohana ʻia ka olonā filament me ka ʻōlinolino maikaʻi e like me ke kaula lōʻihi e lana ana, e ʻoi aku ka ʻōlinolino o ka lole a me ke ʻano o ka hoʻomālamalama ʻana i ka mālamalama. No ka laʻana, he hopena ʻālohilohi silika ko ka lole silika jacquard. ʻO nā kaula lōʻihi e lana ana i ka ulana satin e maʻalahi i ka ʻōpala, ka fluffing a i ʻole ke koho ʻia ʻana o nā olonā. No laila, ʻoi aku ka haʻahaʻa o ka ikaika o kēia ʻano lole ma mua o nā lole maʻamau a me nā lole twill. ʻOi aku ka nui o ka satin o ka lole me ka helu like o ka hilo a ʻoi aku ka mānoanoa, a ʻoi aku ke kiʻekiʻe o ke kumukūʻai. ʻO ka ulana maʻamau, ka ulana twill, a me ka satin nā ʻano kumu ʻekolu o ka ulana ʻana i nā kaula warp a me weft. ʻAʻohe ʻokoʻa kikoʻī ma waena o ka maikaʻi a me ka maikaʻi ʻole, akā ma ke ʻano o ka hana lima, ʻo ka satin ka mea maikaʻi loa o nā lole pulupulu maʻemaʻe, a ʻoi aku ka ʻae ʻia o ka twill e ka hapa nui o nā ʻohana.
Ua kaulana ia ma ʻEulopa i kekahi mau kenekulia i hala aku nei, a ua lilo nā lole lole jacquard i mea maʻamau no ka ʻohana aliʻi a me nā aliʻi e hoʻokō i ka hanohano a me ka nani. I kēia lā, ua lilo nā hiʻohiʻona hanohano a me nā lole nani i mea maʻamau o nā lole home kiʻekiʻe. Hoʻololi ka lole o ka lole jacquard i ka ulana warp a me ka weft i ka wā ulana e hana i kahi hiʻohiʻona, maikaʻi ka helu o ka hilo, a kiʻekiʻe loa nā koi no nā mea maka. Hoʻopili a loli nā hiʻohiʻona warp a me ka weft o ka lole jacquard e hana i nā ʻano like ʻole. He palupalu, akahai a laumania ke ʻano, me ka laumania maikaʻi, ka drape a me ka ea permeability, a me ke kiʻekiʻe o ke kala.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: Dec-09-2022