ʻO ka hoʻohālikelike ʻoluʻolu: Hoʻololi i ka Super 100s a i Super 200s Wool Grading Systems

ʻO ka Super 100s a i ka Super 200s grading system e ana i ka maikaʻi o nā hulu hipa, e hoʻololi i ke ʻano o kā mākou loiloi.lole lole. ʻO kēia pālākiō, i hoʻomaka ʻia i ke kenekulia 18, i kēia manawa mai 30s a 200s, kahi e hōʻike ai nā māka maikaʻi i ka maikaʻi ʻokoʻa.lole lole lole nani, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka lole lole lole lole, i ulana ʻia me kēia mau māka, hāʻawi i ka palupalu ʻole a me ka maʻalahi. Eia hou,lole huluhulu kiʻekiʻealole lole komo huluhulu inoʻike ʻia no ko lākou lōʻihi a me ka nani, e hoʻolilo iā lākou i koho koho no ka poʻe ʻike. ʻO kalole i ulana ʻiai loko o kēia mau ʻāpana e hōʻoia i kahi hiʻohiʻona hoʻomaʻemaʻe a me ka manaʻo, e hoʻokiʻekiʻe ana i nā kapa lole.

Nā mea lawe nui

• ʻO ka paʻi ʻana o ka hulu hipa, e like me Super 100s a i Super 200s, hōʻike i ka lahilahi fiber. Pili kēia i ka palupalu a me ka nani o ka lole.
• ʻO nā māka kiʻekiʻe, e like me Super 150s a ʻoi aku, ʻoi aku ka palupalu a ʻoi aku ka nani. He kūpono lākou no nā hanana nui.
• No ka meahoʻohana i kēlā me kēia lā, e koho i nā lole i ka Super 100s a i Super 140s range. He ʻoluʻolu kēia mau mea, ikaika a maikaʻi hoʻi.

Ka Hoomaopopo ana i ka Papa Huluhulu

He aha ka Wool Grading?

ʻO ka helu ʻana i ka hulu hipa ke kaʻina o ka loiloi ʻana i ka maikaʻi o nā pulupulu ma muli o ko lākou maikaʻi, lōʻihi, a me nā hiʻohiʻona holoʻokoʻa. Mālama ka ʻōnaehana māka i ka kūlike i ka hana lole a kōkua i nā mea kūʻai aku e ʻike i kamaikaʻi o nā huahana hulu hipa. ʻO ka mōʻaukala, ua ulu aʻe ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻana i ka hulu hipa me ka holomua o ka hana textile. No ka laʻana, ʻo ka hoʻokomo ʻana o ka ʻōnaehana helu Super e Joseph Lumb a me Sons i hōʻailona i kahi huli ʻana i ka ʻoihana, e hoʻokumu ana i kahi ala maʻamau e ana i ka waiwai.

No ke aha he mea nui ka Fiber Fineness

He mea koʻikoʻi ka maikaʻi o ka fiber i ka hoʻoholo ʻana i ka palupalu, hōʻoluʻolu, a me ka nani o nā lole hulu hipa. Hōʻike nā haʻawina ʻepekema ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o nā fibers maikaʻi e hoʻomaikaʻi i nā waiwai wili, e maʻalahi ai ka milo a me ka hana. Hoʻohui ʻia, hoʻomaikaʻi nā finer finer i ka mea hōʻoluʻolu, no ka mea e hōʻemi lākou i ke ʻano ʻino e pili pinepine me ka hulu hipa. ʻO kēia pilina ma waena o ka mean fiber diameter (MFD) a me ka nani o ka lole e hōʻike ana i ke koʻikoʻi o ka maikaʻi i ka hana ʻana i nā huahana huluhulu kiʻekiʻe.

ʻO ke kumu o ka Pūnaehana Helu Nui

Hoʻomaʻamaʻa ka ʻōnaehana helu Super i ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻana i ka huluhulu ma ka hāʻawi ʻana i nā waiwai helu i ka maikaʻi o ka fiber. ʻO kēia mau helu, mai ka Super 100s a hiki i ka Super 200s, e hōʻike ana i ke anawaena awelika o nā hulu hipa i nā microns. No ka loaʻa ʻana o ka pololei, hoʻohana ʻia nā ʻano ʻepekema like ʻole:

ʻAʻole kōkua kēia ʻōnaehana i nā mea hana i ka hana ʻana i nā lole maʻamau akā hāʻawi pū kekahi i nā mea kūʻai aku e hana i nā koho ʻike i ke koho ʻana i ka lole lole lole huluhulu nani.

Hoʻololi i ka Super 100s a i ka Super 200s

Pehea e hōʻike ai nā helu i ka maikaʻi o ka fiber

I koʻu ʻike mua ʻana i ka ʻōnaehana hoʻonohonoho Super, ua hauʻoli wau i ka hoʻopili pololei ʻana o kēia mau helu me ka maikaʻi o nā hulu hipa. Hōʻike kēlā me kēia helu i ke anawaena kiʻekiʻe o nā fibers i nā microns. No ka laʻana, ʻo ka hulu hipa Super 100s he mau fiber me ka awelika anawaena o 18.5 microns, aʻo Super 200s wool ma kahi o 13.5 microns. ʻO ka liʻiliʻi o ka helu, ʻoi aku ka ʻoi aku o ka ʻili; ʻo ka nui o ka helu, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi a me ka palupalu o ka hulu hipa.

No ka hoʻomaopopo maikaʻi ʻana i kēia, e nānā kākou i nā ʻenehana ana i hoʻohana ʻia no ka helu ʻana i ka maikaʻi o ka fiber:

Hōʻoia kēia mau hōʻailona e hiki i nā mea hana a me nā mea kūʻai ke hilinaʻi i nā helu helu e hōʻike i ka maikaʻi a me ka nani o ka hulu hipa. Ke kūʻai au nolole lole lole lole lole wili, Noʻonoʻo mau wau i kēia mau māka i mea e loaʻa ai iaʻu ka palupalu a me ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe aʻu i makemake ai.

ʻO ka Micron Scale a me kāna kuleana i ka helu ʻana

ʻO ka unahi micron ka iwi kuamoʻo o ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i ka hulu hipa. He ana ia i ke anawaena o na fiber pakahi, e haawi ana i ke ala pololei e hookahua i ka hulu hipa. ʻOi aku ka maikaʻi o ka fiber, ʻoi aku ka haʻahaʻa o kāna ana micron, a ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o kāna māka Super. No ka laʻana, ʻo ka fiber i ka Super 100s category e ana maʻamau ma waena o 18 a me 19 microns, aʻo nā mea i ka Super 200s e hāʻule ma lalo o 14 microns.

Ua hōʻoia ka noiʻi i ka pololei o kēia mau ana. Ua ʻike ʻia kahi haʻawina e hoʻohālikelike ana i nā ana ʻana o ka Average Fiber Diameter (AFD) me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ʻelua mea hana, OFDA2000 a me Minifiber EC, ua hoʻopuka nā mea hana ʻelua i nā hopena like. ʻO kēia kūlike e hōʻoiaʻiʻo i ka paʻa ʻana o ka micron i mea maʻamau no ka helu ʻana i ka hulu hipa. Ua ʻike au i koʻu koho ʻana i nā lole i kālai ʻia me nā helu Super kiʻekiʻe, ʻike koke ʻia ka ʻokoʻa o ka palupalu a me ka maʻalahi.

ʻO ka loulou ma waena o nā papa kiʻekiʻe a me nā lole lole huluhulu nani

Kiʻekiʻe Super mākaua like me ka hanohano. Maikaʻi maikaʻi nā lole huluhulu ma ka Super 150s a i ka Super 200s, e hana ana i kahi ʻano silika e like me ke kaumaha ʻole. ʻO kēia pae o ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ka mea e kū ai nā lole lole lole huluhulu nani. ʻAʻole ʻoi aku ka palupalu o nā fibers akā ʻoi aku ka ʻano like ʻole, ka hopena i kahi lole e uhi nani a kū i ka wrinkling.

Eia naʻe, ʻoi aku ka nui o kēia mau māka ma mua o ka aesthetics. ʻO ka maikaʻi o nā fibers e hoʻonui i ka hanu o ka lole, i mea kūpono no ka ʻaʻahu a puni ka makahiki. Ke komo au i ka lole i hana ʻia mai ka hulu hipa Super 180s, hiki iaʻu ke ʻike i ka ʻokoʻa o ka ʻoluʻolu a me ka nani. ʻAʻole ia he mea kupanaha he mea nui kēia mau lole i ka humuhumu kiʻekiʻe.

ʻO kēlā'ōlelo, he mea nui e kaulike i ka nani me ka pono. ʻOiai ke hāʻawi nei nā māka kiʻekiʻe i ka palupalu like ʻole, hiki ke emi ka lōʻihi ma mua o nā māka haʻahaʻa e like me Super 100s a i ʻole Super 120s. No ka ʻaʻahu o kēlā me kēia lā, ʻōlelo pinepine au i nā lole i ka Super 100s a i Super 140s range, ʻoiai lākou e hoʻokau i ke kaulike kūpono ma waena o ka nani a me ka lōʻihi.

Ka maikaʻi, ka nani, a me ka pono

Pehea ka hopena o ka helu ʻana i ka lole a me ka hōʻoluʻolu

ʻO ka manaʻo o ka lole huluhulu e hilinaʻi nui ʻia i kona pae. ʻO nā māka kiʻekiʻe, e like me Super 150s a ma luna, hāʻawi i kahi ʻano silika e manaʻo aiuʻi kūʻē i ka ʻili. ʻO nā māka haʻahaʻa, e like me Super 100s, hāʻawi i kahi manaʻo koʻikoʻi akā ʻoluʻolu no ka ʻaʻahu o kēlā me kēia lā. Hōʻike nā haʻawina e hoʻohālikelike ana i ka hōʻoluʻolu tactile ma waena o nā māka huluhulu i nā ʻike hoihoi:

Ke koho au i ka lole lole hulu hipa nani, ʻike au i ka palupalu a me ka maikaʻi o nā papa kiʻekiʻe. Hoʻonui kēia ʻokoʻa tactile i ka ʻike holoʻokoʻa holoʻokoʻa, e kūpono ana i ka hoʻopukapuka kālā no nā hanana kūikawā.

Ka lōʻihi ma nā papa like ʻole

'Oko'a ka lō'ihi ma nā papa hulu hipa. ʻOiai ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o nā māka maikaʻi e like me Super 180s i ka palupalu, nele paha lākou i ke kūpaʻa o nā māka haʻahaʻa. No ka laʻana, hāʻawi ka hulu hipa Super 100s i ke kaulike o ka lōʻihi a me ka hōʻoluʻolu, e kūpono ia no ka hoʻohana pinepine ʻana. Hōʻike ka ʻikepili hoʻohālikelike i kēia mau ʻokoʻa:

Manaʻo pinepine au iā Super 120s a i ʻole Super 140s no ka poʻe e ʻimi nei i ke kaulike ma waena o ka lōʻihi a me ka nani. Kūleʻa kēia mau māka i ka lole a me ka waimaka i ka mālama ʻana i kahi hiʻohiʻona nani.

Ke kaulike ʻana i ka nani a me ka maʻalahi i ke koho huluhulu

ʻO ke koho ʻana i ka papa huluhulu kūponoke kaulike ʻana i ka maikaʻi, ke kumukūʻai, a me ka pono. ʻO nā māka kiʻekiʻe, ʻoiai he nani, ʻaʻole kūpono i kēlā me kēia ʻano nohona. ʻO nā waiwai kūlohelohe o ka huluhulu, e like me ka insulation a me ka moisture-wicking, e lilo ia i koho kūpono a nani hoʻi. ʻO nā mea nui e noʻonoʻo ai:

• Hāʻawi ka hulu hipa Merino i ka mahana a me ka lōʻihi akā hiki ke kumukūʻai kiʻekiʻe.
• Hoʻonui ka hui ʻana me ka acrylic i ka lōʻihi a hōʻemi i nā pono mālama.
• ʻO nā mea huluhulu kiʻekiʻe e hoʻomaikaʻi i ka palupalu a me nā waiwai wela.

No ka ʻaʻahu o kēlā me kēia lā, ʻike wau ʻo nā lole i ka Super 100s a i ka Super 140s e hoʻopaʻa i ke kaulike kūpono. Hāʻawi lākou i ka nani o nā lole lole lole huluhulu maikaʻi me ka ʻole o ka hoʻokō ʻana i ka pono a i ʻole ke kumu kūʻai.

Ke koho ʻana i ka papa hulu hipa kūpono

Manaʻo kōkua no ka loiloi ʻana i nā huahana Wool

I ka manawaka loiloi ʻana i nā huahana hulu hipa, Ke nānā aku nei au i ʻekolu mau mea nui: ka maikaʻi o ka fiber, ka ʻimi ʻana, a me ka hoʻohana ʻana. Hoʻoholo ka maikaʻi o ka fiber i ka palupalu, paʻa, a me ka manaʻo holoʻokoʻa o ka lole. Ke nānā mau nei au i ka helu Super, no ka mea, hōʻike pololei ia i ka maikaʻi o ka hulu hipa. No ka laʻana, hāʻawi ka hulu hipa Super 100s i ke kaulike o ka lōʻihi a me ka hōʻoluʻolu, aʻo ka huluhulu Super 180s hāʻawi i ka palupalu like ʻole no nā hanana kūikawā.

He mea koʻikoʻi like ka loaʻa ʻana. Hoʻomaka mua wau i ka hulu hipa i hoʻokumu ʻia ma ke ʻano kūpono, e like me Merino, e kūlike me ka ulu nui ʻana o nā mea hoʻomau. Hōʻike ka noiʻi mākeke hou loa he 73% o nā millennials e makemake e uku hou aku no nā huahana eco-friendly. Hōʻike kēia ʻano i ke koʻikoʻi o ke koho ʻana i ka hulu hipa maikaʻi a pili i ke kaiapuni.

ʻO ka hope, manaʻo wau i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka lole. ʻO nā waiwai hypoallergenic o Wool he koho maikaʻi loa ia no ka poʻe me ka ʻili paʻakikī a i ʻole nā ​​​​allergies. Ke hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka pulupulu, hoʻemi ka huluhulu i ka pilikia o ka hanu, e lilo ia i koho olakino no ka ʻaʻahu o kēlā me kēia lā.

Hoʻohālikelike i nā papa me kou makemake a me kou ʻano nohona

ʻO ke koho ʻana i ka papa huluhulu kūpono e pili ana i kou nohona a me kou makemake. Manaʻo mau wau e hoʻomaka me ka loiloi o kāu mau hana o kēlā me kēia lā a me nā koi o nā lole. No ka laʻana, inā makemake ʻoe i kahi lole no ka ʻaʻahu maʻamau o ke keʻena, hāʻawi ʻo Super 100s a i ʻole Super 120s wool i ke kaulike kūpono o ka lōʻihi a me ka hōʻoluʻolu. Kūleʻa kēia mau māka i ka hoʻohana mau ʻana me ka mālama ʻana i kahi hiʻohiʻona nani.

No ka poʻe e ʻimi nei i ka nanilole lole loleno nā hanana kūikawā, hāʻawi nā māka kiʻekiʻe e like me Super 150s a i ʻole Super 180s i ka palupalu ʻole a me ka nani. Hoʻopili nani kēia mau lole a manaʻo ʻole i ke kaumaha, i mea kūpono ia no nā hanana kūlana. Eia nō naʻe, ʻaʻole like lākou e like me nā papa haʻahaʻa, no laila mālama wau iā lākou no ka hoʻohana pinepine ʻole.

Hōʻike nā ʻano ʻikepili o nā mea kūʻai aku i ka huluhulu maikaʻi, e like me Merino, ua mahalo nui ʻia no kona palupalu a me ka nani. Hāʻawi ka huluhulu haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa i ka versatility, ʻoiai ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hulu hipa koʻikoʻi i ka lōʻihi no nā hana kaumaha. ʻO ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i kēia mau ʻokoʻa e kōkua iaʻu e hoʻohālikelike i ka māka kūpono i kaʻu mau pono kikoʻī.

Ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i ke kumukūʻai-pono o nā papa kiʻekiʻe

ʻO nā lole huluhulu kiʻekiʻe e hele pinepine mai me ka uku kumukūʻai, akā hiki i nā pōmaikaʻi ke hōʻoia i ke kumukūʻai. ʻO ka hulu hipa ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi, e like me Super 180s a i ʻole Super 200s, ke kauoha i nā kumukūʻai kiʻekiʻe ma muli o kona palupalu maikaʻi a me ka hoʻopiʻi nani. Ua hōʻoia nā haʻawina e pili ana ke anawaena o ka fiber i ke kumu kūʻai hulu hipa, me nā fiber ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi e kiʻi ana i nā kumukūʻai makeke.

Eia naʻe, ke kaupaona mau nei au i ke kumukūʻai me ka hoʻohana i manaʻo ʻia. No ka ʻaʻahu o kēlā me kēia lā, ʻike wau ʻo Super 100s a i Super 140s wool hāʻawi i ka waiwai maikaʻi loa. Hāʻawi kēia mau māka i kahi kaulike o ka nani a me ka pono me ka ʻole o ka haki ʻana i ka waihona. Ma ka ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hoʻopukapuka ʻana i nā māka kiʻekiʻe no nā hanana kūikawā a i ʻole ke hana ʻana i kahi ʻōlelo.

Hōʻike pū nā loiloi kālā i ka pilina ma waena o ke anawaena fiber a me ke kumukūʻai. Eia kekahi laʻana, noiʻi e Erasmus and Delport (1987) a me Nolan et al. (2013) hōʻoia i ka hulu hipa ʻoi aku ka waiwai. Kōkua kēia ʻike iaʻu e hoʻoholo i ka ʻike i ke koho ʻana i nā lole, e hōʻoia ana e loaʻa iaʻu ka maikaʻi maikaʻi loa no kaʻu kālā.

He mea nui ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i ka huluhulu no ka hoʻoholo ʻana i ka ʻike i ke kūʻai ʻana i nā lole. Hoʻopili pololei ka ʻōnaehana Super 100s a i Super 200s i ka manaʻo, ka maikaʻi, a me ka nani o ka hulu hipa. Manaʻo mau wau e noʻonoʻo i nā pono pilikino a me nā makemake e koho i ka lole lole lole huluhulu maikaʻi loa no kēlā me kēia manawa.

FAQ

He aha ka manaʻo o "Super" i ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i ka hulu hipa?

Hōʻike ka lepili "Super" i ka maikaʻi o nā hulu hipa. ʻO nā helu kiʻekiʻe, e like me Super 150s, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o nā fibers, e hopena i nā lole palupalu a ʻoi aku ka nani.

ʻOi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hulu hipa kiʻekiʻe?

ʻAʻole pono. ʻO nā māka kiʻekiʻe, e like me Super 180s, hāʻawi i ka palupalu a me ka nani akā ʻaʻole hiki ke paʻa. No ka lole o kēlā me kēia lā, paipai wau iā Super 100s a i Super 140s no ke kaulike.

Pehea e hiki ai iaʻu ke ʻike i nā lole huluhulu nani maoli?

E nānā i nā palapala hōʻoia e like me Woolmark a i ʻole nā ​​lepili e hōʻike ana i ka papa Super. Ke ʻimi nei au i nā lama kaulana a nānā i ke ʻano o ka lole a me ka maikaʻi o ka ulana.