I roto i ngā momo papanga kakahu katoa, he uaua ki te wehewehe i te mua me te muri o ētahi papanga, ā, he ngāwari ki te hē mena he iti noa te mangere i roto i te tukanga tuitui o te kākahu, ka puta he hapa, pērā i te hōhonutanga o te tae kāore i te ōrite, ngā tauira kāore i te ōrite, me ngā rerekētanga tae nui. , Ka pōhēhē te tauira, ka hurihia te papanga, ka pā ki te āhua o te kākahu. Haunga ngā tikanga pārongo o te kite me te pā ki te papanga, ka taea hoki te tautuhi mai i ngā āhuatanga hanganga o te papanga, ngā āhuatanga o te hoahoa me te tae, te pānga motuhake o te āhua i muri i te whakaotinga motuhake, me te tapanga me te hiri o te papanga.
1. Te whakamihi i runga i te hanganga whakahaere o te papanga
(1) Kakahu whatu ma: He uaua ki te tautuhi i te mua me te tuara o ngā kakahu whatu ma, nō reira kāore he rerekētanga i waenganui i te mua me te tuara (haunga te kariko). I te nuinga o te wā, he maeneene, he ma te mua o te kakahu whatu ma, ā, he ōrite, he kanapa te tae.
(2) Kakahu Twill: E rua ngā momo o te whatu Twill: te twill taha-kotahi me te twill taha-rua. He mārama, he mārama hoki te anga o te twill taha-kotahi i te taha o mua, engari he pōuriuri i te taha o muri. Hei tāpiri, mō te piko o te anga, ko te anga o mua o te papanga miro kotahi e piko ana mai i te taha maui o runga ki te taha matau o raro, ā, ko te anga o te papanga haurua-miro, te papanga raina-katoa rānei e piko ana mai i te taha maui o raro ki te taha matau o runga. He rite tonu ngā anga o mua me muri o te twill taha-rua, engari he whakarara ki te ritenga kē.
(3) Kakahu whatu satin: Nā te mea ka mānu ake ngā miro o mua o ngā kakahu whatu satin i waho o te mata o te kakahu, he papatahi, he piri, he kanapa te mata o te kakahu. He rite te kakano o te taha whakamuri ki te mea ma, ki te mea twill rānei, ā, he ahua mangu te kanapa.
Hei tāpiritanga, he nui ake ngā pōtae whakarara ki mua o te whatu miro me te satin miro, ā, he nui ake ngā pōtae whakarara ki mua o te whatu miro me te satin miro.
2. Te mōhio i runga i te tauira me te tae o te papanga
He mārama, he ma ngā tauira me ngā tauira kei mua o ngā papanga, he angiangi, he mārama hoki ngā āhua me ngā rārangi o ngā tauira, he mārama ngā paparanga, ā, he kanapa, he kanapa ngā tae; he pōuri ake.
3. E ai ki te panonitanga o te hanganga papanga me te mōhiotanga tauira
He rerekē rawa ngā tauira whatu o ngā papanga jacquard, tigue me te strip. I te taha o mua o te tauira whatu, he iti ake ngā miro e mānu ana, ā, he mārama ake ngā rārangi, ngā whatu me ngā tauira kua whakaarohia i te taha o muri, ā, he mārama ngā rārangi, he kitea te āhua o te whakatakotoranga, he ōrite te tae, he kanapa, he ngawari te mārama; he pōuri ngā tauira o te taha o muri, he koretake ngā āhua o te whakatakotoranga, ā, he mangu te tae. He papanga jacquard takitahi anō hoki me ngā tauira ahurei i te taha o muri, ā, he ōrite, he marino hoki ngā tae, nō reira ko te taha o muri te rauemi matua mō te hanga kākahu. Mena he tika te hanganga miro o te papanga, he ōrite te roa e mānu ana, ā, kāore e pāngia te pumau o te whakamahinga, ka taea hoki te whakamahi i te taha o muri hei taha o mua.
4. Te mōhiotanga i runga i te kakau o te papanga
Ko te tikanga, he maeneene ake, he koi ake te taha o mua o te papanga i te taha o muri, ā, he piko te taha o muri ki roto. Mō te papanga i whatua e te whatu kore-whakairo, he papatahi te taha o mua o te whatu, ā, he ngāwari ki te kimi i ngā pito whatu i te taha o muri. Ko ētahi papanga papai. Pērā i te kakahu huruhuru hipi. He waehere, he tohu rānei kua whatua ki te taha o te papanga. He mārama, he mārama, he maeneene hoki ngā waehere, ngā tohu rānei i te taha o mua; ko ngā tohu, ngā tohu rānei i te taha o muri he pōuriuri, ā, he huripokitia ngā momotuhi.
5. E ai ki te tautuhi i te pānga āhua i muri i te whakaotinga motuhake o ngā papanga
(1) Kakahu whakaara: He puranga nui te taha o mua o te kakahu. Ko te taha o muri he kakano kāore i te pupuhi. He mārama te hanganga whenua, pērā i te huruhuru, te weriweri, te weriweri, te korduroi me ētahi atu. He matotoru te huruhuru o ētahi kakahu, ā, he uaua ki te kite i te kakano o te hanganga whenua.
(2) Kakahu wera: He mārama ngā āhua o te mata o mua o te tauira kua rongoatia ki te matū, he paparanga, he kanapa ngā tae. Mena he hiako wera, ka matotoru, ka ōrite te hiako, pērā i te hiraka wera, te hiako georgette, me ētahi atu.
6. Te tautuhi mā te tohu hokohoko me te hiri
Ina tirohia te wahi katoa o te papanga i mua i te wehenga atu i te wheketere, ka whakapirihia te pepa tohu hokohoko o te hua, te pukapuka ā-ringa rānei, ā, ko te taha whakapiri ko te taha whakamuri o te papanga; ko te rā i hangaia ai me te tohu tirotiro i ia pito o ia wahi ko te taha whakamuri o te papanga. He rerekē ki ngā hua o te kāinga, ko ngā whakapiri tohu hokohoko me ngā hiri o ngā hua kaweake kua hipokina ki te taha o mua.
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Wā tuku: Whiringa-ā-rangi 30-2022