I roto i te oranga o ia rā, ka rongo tonu tātou he whatu mania tēnei, he whatu twill tēnei, he whatu satin tēnei, he whatu jacquard tēnei, me ērā atu mea. Engari ko te mea pono, he tokomaha te hunga e kore e mōhio i muri i te whakarongo ki tēnei. He aha te pai o tēnei mea? I tēnei rā, me kōrero tātou mō ngā āhuatanga me te tautuhi i ēnei papanga e toru.
1. Ko te whatu papatahi, te whatu twill, me te satin ngā mea e hangai ana ki te hanganga o te papanga
Ko te mea e kiia nei ko te whatu mania, te whatu twill me te whatu satin (satin) e pā ana ki te hanganga o te papanga. Mō te hanganga anake, ehara i te mea pai, ehara hoki i te mea kino ēnei e toru, engari he āhuatanga motuhake tō ia mea nā te rerekētanga o te hanganga.
(1)Kakahu Maamaa
He kupu whānui tēnei mō te kakahu miro whatu māeneene o ngā āhuatanga rerekē. Kei roto i ēnei ko te whatu māeneene me te whatu rerekē, ngā momo papanga miro whatu māeneene me ngā āhuatanga me ngā momo kāhua rerekē. Pērā i: te kakahu māeneene matotoru, te kakahu māeneene waenga, te kakahu māeneene pai, te poplin gauze, te poplin haurua-miro, te poplin raina-katoa, te miro hemp me te kakahu māeneene paraihe, me ētahi atu. E 65 ngā momo katoa.
He miro whatu me te miro whatu e honoa ana ki ngā miro katoa. He mārō, he rakuraku te kakano o te kakahu, ā, he maeneene te mata. Ko te tikanga, ko ngā papanga whakairo papai he mea hanga ki ngā papanga whatu noa.
He maha ngā wāhi e raranga ana te papanga whatu ma, he pakari te kakano, he maeneene te mata, he rite tonu te āhua o mua me muri, he māmā ake, he angiangi ake, ā, he pai ake te uruhanga o te hau. Ko te hanganga o te whatu ma e whakatau ana i tōna iti o te mātotoru. I te nuinga o te wā, he iti te utu o te papanga whatu ma. Engari he iti noa ngā papanga whatu ma he nui ake te utu, pērā i ētahi papanga whakairo papai.
(2)Kakahu Twill
He kupu whānui tēnei mō ngā papanga miro me ngā momo whakatakotoranga o te whatu twill, tae atu ki te whatu twill me ngā momo whatu twill, me ngā momo papanga miro twill me ngā momo whakatakotoranga me ngā momo kāhua. Pērā i: te miro twill, te miro serge, te miro half-line serge, te miro gabardine, te miro half-line gabardine, te miro khaki, te half-line khaki, te miro full-line khaki, te miro paraihe, me ētahi atu, e 44 katoa ngā momo.
I roto i te papanga twill, ka whatua te whenu me te whatu i te iti rawa i ia rua miro, arā, 2/1, 3/1 rānei. Mā te tāpiri i ngā pūwāhi whatu me te whatu hei whakarerekē i te hanganga o te papanga ka kiia ko te papanga twill. Ko te āhuatanga o tēnei momo papanga he matotoru, ā, he kaha te kakano toru-ahu. Ko te maha o ngā tatau he 40, 60, me ētahi atu.
(3)Kakahu Hātene
He kupu whānui tēnei mō ngā momo whakatakotoranga o te kakahu miro whatu satin. Kei roto i ēnei ko ngā momo whatu satin me ngā whatu satin, ngā momo whakatakotoranga me ngā momo momo whatu satin.
Ka whatua te whenu me te whatu i te iti rawa i ia toru miro. I roto i ngā papanga, ko te matotoru te mea tino matotoru, ā, he maeneene ake te mata o te papanga, he angiangi ake, he kanapa hoki, engari he nui ake te utu o te hua, nō reira he tino nui te utu.
He tino uaua te mahi whatu hātene, ā, kotahi anake te miro whatu me te miro whatu e kapi ana i te mata i te āhua o ngā roa e mānu ana. Ko te hātene whatu e kapi ana i te mata e kiia ana ko te hātene whatu; ko te miro whatu e kapi ana i te mata e kiia ana ko te hātene whatu. Nā te roa e mānu ana ka pai ake te kanapa o te mata o te papanga, ā, ka ngāwari te whakaata i te mārama. Nō reira, ki te titiro matatau koe ki te papanga hātene miro, ka paku mānu koe.
Ki te whakamahia te miro miro he pai ake te kanapa hei miro roa e mānu ana, ka kitea ake te kanapa o te papanga me te whakaata ki te māramatanga. Hei tauira, he kanapa te papanga hiraka jacquard. Ko ngā miro roa e mānu ana i roto i te raranga satin ka ngawari ki te pakarukaru, ki te pupuhi, ki te tangohia rānei ngā muka. Nō reira, he iti ake te kaha o tēnei momo papanga i ō ngā papanga ma, me ngā papanga twill. He nui ake te matotoru o te satin, he matotoru ake hoki, ā, he nui ake te utu. Ko te raranga ma, te raranga twill, me te satin ngā huarahi matua e toru mō te raranga miro whenu me te miro whatu. Kāore he rerekētanga motuhake i waenga i te pai me te kino, engari i runga i te mahi toi, ko te satin te mea pai rawa atu o ngā papanga miro parakore, ā, he pai ake te twill ki te nuinga o ngā whānau.
I rongonui i Ūropi i ngā rautau kua pahure ake nei, ā, kua noho ko ngā kākahu kakahu jacquard hei mea rongonui mā te whānau kingi me ngā rangatira hei whakaatu i te mana me te huatau. I ēnei rā, kua tino kitea te ahua o ngā tauira rangatira me ngā papanga ataahua hei momo kakahu kāinga papai. Ka huri te papanga o te kakahu jacquard i te whatu miro me te miro i te wā e whatu ana hei hanga i tētahi tauira, he pai te maha o ngā miro, ā, he tino teitei ngā rauemi mata e hiahiatia ana. Ka rarangahia, ka rerekē haere ngā miro miro me te miro o te papanga jacquard hei hanga i ngā tauira rerekē. He ngawari, he ātaahua, he maeneene te kakano, he maeneene pai, he ārai me te uruhanga hau, ā, he pakari te tae.
Wā tuku: Hakihea-09-2022