Mu buzima bwa buri munsi, twumva buri gihe ko iyi ari iy'ubudodo busanzwe, iyi ni iy'ubudodo bwa twill, iyi ni iy'ubudodo bwa satin, iyi ni iy'ubudodo bwa jacquard n'ibindi. Ariko mu by'ukuri, abantu benshi barabura icyo bavuga nyuma yo kuyumva. Ni iki cyiza kuri yo? Uyu munsi, reka tuvuge ku miterere n'imiterere y'iyi myenda itatu.
1. Ubudodo busanzwe, ubudodo bwa twill, na satin ni bimwe mu bigize imiterere y'umwenda
Ibyo bita plain weave, twill weave na satin weave (satin) bivuga imiterere y'umwenda. Mu bijyanye n'imiterere yonyine, ibyo bitatu si byiza cyangwa bibi, ariko buri kimwe gifite imiterere yacyo bitewe n'itandukaniro ry'imiterere.
(1) Igitambaro gisanzwe
Ni ijambo rusange risobanura umwenda w'ipamba ukozwe mu buryo busanzwe ufite ibisobanuro bitandukanye. Ibi birimo imyenda ikozwe mu buryo busanzwe n'ikozwe mu buryo busanzwe, imyenda itandukanye ikozwe mu buryo busanzwe ifite ibisobanuro bitandukanye n'imiterere itandukanye. Urugero: umwenda ukozwe mu buryo busanzwe, umwenda ukozwe mu buryo buciriritse, umwenda mwiza ukozwe mu buryo busanzwe, gauze poplin, igice cy'umugozi, umugozi wuzuye, umugozi wa hemp n'umwenda ukozwe mu buryo busanzwe, nibindi. Hari ubwoko 65 muri rusange.
Ubudodo bwo kugorora n'ubwo kugorora bufatanye n'ubundi budodo bwose. Imiterere y'igitambaro irakomeye, irashwanyagurika, kandi ubuso bwacyo buraryoshye. Muri rusange, imyenda yo kugorora igezweho ikorwa mu myenda isanzwe.
Igitambaro cyoroshye gifite ingingo nyinshi ziboha, imiterere ikomeye, ubuso bworoshye, ingaruka zimwe imbere n'inyuma zisa, zoroshye kandi zoroshye, kandi zituma umwuka unyura neza. Imiterere y'igitambaro cyoroshye niyo igaragaza ubucucike bwacyo buke. Muri rusange, igiciro cy'igitambaro cyoroshye ni gito. Ariko hari n'ibindi bitambaro byoroshye bihenze cyane, urugero nk'imyenda yoroshye cyane.
(2) Igitambaro cya Twill
Ni ijambo rusange ku myenda ya ipamba ifite ibisobanuro bitandukanye bya twill weave, harimo guhindura twill weave na twill weave, hamwe n'imyenda itandukanye ya ipamba twill ifite ibisobanuro bitandukanye n'imiterere itandukanye. Nk'iyi: yarn twill, yarn serge, half-line serge, yarn gabardine, half-line gabardine, yarn khaki, half-line khaki, full-line khaki, brushed twill, n'ibindi, byose hamwe ni amoko 44.
Mu mwenda wa twill, umugozi n'umugozi biboha nibura buri budodo bubiri, ni ukuvuga 2/1 cyangwa 3/1. Kongeramo ingingo zo kugoba no kugoba kugira ngo uhindure imiterere y'umwenda byitwa imyenda ya twill. Ikiranga ubwoko bw'umwenda ni uko uba munini kandi ufite imiterere ikomeye y'ibice bitatu. Umubare w'ibarwa ni 40, 60, n'ibindi.
(3)Imyenda ya Satin
Ni ijambo rusange risobanura ibipimo bitandukanye by'imyenda ya satin ikoze mu ipamba. Ibi birimo imitako itandukanye ya satin n'imitako ya satin, ibipimo bitandukanye n'uburyo butandukanye bw'imitako ya satin.
Ubudodo bwo kugorora n'ubudodo buboherwa nibura buri budodo butatu. Mu myenda, ubucucike ni bwo bwinshi kandi bunini, kandi ubuso bw'imyenda buraryoshye, bworoshye kandi bwuzuyemo umucyo, ariko igiciro cy'ibicuruzwa kiri hejuru, bityo igiciro kizaba gihenze ugereranyije.
Uburyo bwo kuboha satin buragoye cyane, kandi bumwe gusa mu budodo bwa warp na weft butwikira ubuso mu buryo bw'uburebure bwo kureremba. Satin ya warp itwikira ubuso yitwa warp satin; weft float itwikira ubuso yitwa weft satin. Uburebure burebure butuma ubuso bw'imyenda burushaho kuba bwiza kandi byoroshye kugaragaza urumuri. Kubwibyo, iyo urebye neza imyenda ya satin ikozwe mu ipamba, uzumva umeze nk'umucyo muto.
Iyo ubudodo bw'umugozi bufite urumuri rwiza bukoreshejwe nk'umugozi muremure urekura, urumuri rw'umwenda n'urumuri bizagaragara cyane. Urugero, umwenda wa jacquard wa silk ugira ingaruka nziza cyane ku mucyo. Imigozi miremire irekura mu mwenda wa satin ikunze kwangirika, guhindagurika cyangwa imigozi igakurwamo. Kubwibyo, imbaraga z'ubu bwoko bw'umwenda ni nkeya ugereranyije n'imyenda isanzwe n'iy'inyuma. Umwenda ufite umubare umwe w'ubudodo ufite ubunini bwa satin bwinshi kandi bunini, kandi igiciro nacyo kiri hejuru. Ubudodo busanzwe, ubwoya bwa twill, na satin ni bwo buryo butatu bw'ibanze bwo kuboha imigozi ya warp na weft. Nta tandukaniro ryihariye hagati y'icyiza n'ikibi, ariko mu bijyanye n'ubukorikori, satin ni yo myenda myiza cyane mu myenda y'ipamba, kandi twill yemerwa cyane n'imiryango myinshi.
Byari bikunzwe cyane mu Burayi mu binyejana byinshi bishize, kandi imyenda ya jacquard yabaye ikintu gisanzwe ku muryango w’ibwami n’abanyacyubahiro kugira ngo igaragaze icyubahiro n’ubwiza. Muri iki gihe, imitako myiza n’imyenda myiza byahindutse nk’imitako y’imyenda yo mu rugo igezweho. Imyenda ya jacquard ihindura ubudodo bwa warp na weft mu gihe cyo kuboha kugira ngo ikore igishushanyo, umubare w’ubudodo ni mwiza, kandi ibisabwa ku bikoresho fatizo ni byinshi cyane. Ubudodo bwa warp na weft bw’imyenda ya jacquard buravangavanga kandi burahindagurika kugira ngo bukore igishushanyo gitandukanye. Imiterere ni yoroshye, yoroshye kandi yoroshye, ifite uburyohe bwiza, irabagirana kandi iratanga umwuka mwinshi, kandi ifite ibara ryihuse.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Ukuboza-09-2022