Muhupenyu hwezuva nezuva, tinogara tichinzwa kuti iyi imhando yejira rakarukwa, iyi imhando yejira rakarukwa, iyi imhando yejira rakarukwa, iyi imhando yejira rakarukwa, iyi imhando yejira rakarukwa, nezvimwewo. Asi kutaura chokwadi, vanhu vazhinji vanoshaya kana vateerera. Chii chakanaka kudaro? Nhasi ngatitaurei nezvehunhu uye kuzivikanwa kwemachira aya matatu.
1. Kuruka kusina kujeka, kuruka kwakapetwa kaviri, uye satin zvinoenderana nechimiro chejira
Zvinonzi plain weave, twill weave uye satin weave (satin) zvinoreva chimiro chejira. Panyaya yemagadzirirwo chete, zvitatu izvi hazvina kunaka kana kuipa, asi chimwe nechimwe chine hunhu hwacho nekuda kwekusiyana kwemagadzirirwo.
(1) Jira Risina Kurongeka
Izwi rekuti jira redonje rakarukwa rine hunyanzvi hwakasiyana-siyana. Izvi zvinosanganisira jira rakarukwa uye jira rakarukwa rakasiyana-siyana, machira akasiyana-siyana edonje ane hunyanzvi hwakasiyana-siyana. Zvakadai se: jira rakarukwa, jira repakati nepakati, jira rakarukwa, gauze poplin, half-thread poplin, full-line poplin, hemp yarn uye jira rakarukwa rakarukwa, nezvimwewo. Kune marudzi makumi matanhatu nemashanu ese.
Shinda dzakarukwa nedzinorukwa dzinobatanidzwa neshinda dzese. Magadzirirwo ejira racho akasimba, anokwenya, uye pamusoro paro pakanyatsotsvedzerera. Kazhinji, machira ekushongedza emhando yepamusoro anogadzirwa nemachira asina kurukwa.
Jira rakarukwa risina chinhu rine nzvimbo dzakawanda dzekuruka, magadzirirwo akasimba, pamusoro paro pakatsetseka, chitarisiko chakafanana pamberi nepashure, rakareruka uye rakatetepa, uye mhepo inoyerera zviri nani. Maumbirwo ejira rakarukwa risina chinhu anoratidza kuderera kwehuwandu hwaro. Kazhinji, mutengo wejira rakarukwa risina chinhu wakaderera. Asi kunewo mamwe machira akarukwa asina chinhu anodhura zvakanyanya, akadai semamwe machira emhando yepamusoro ekuruka.
(2) Jira reTwill
Izwi rekuti machira edonje ane magadzirirwo akasiyana-siyana e twill weave, kusanganisira twill weave ne twill weave changes, uye machira akasiyana-siyana edonje twill ane magadzirirwo akasiyana uye maitiro. Zvakadai se: yarn twill, yarn serge, half-line serge, yarn gabardine, half-line gabardine, yarn khaki, half-line khaki, full-line khaki, brushed twill, nezvimwewo, marudzi makumi mana nemana ese.
Mujira retwill, warp ne weft zvinorukwa kanenge kaviri pahuswa mbiri, kureva 2/1 kana 3/1. Kuwedzera nzvimbo dzekuruka dzakarukwa ne weft kuti uchinje chimiro chejira kunonzi pamwe chete jira retwill. Hunhu hwejira rerudzi urwu ndehwekuti rakakora uye rine magadzirirwo akasimba emativi matatu. Huwandu hwemaverengero i40, 60, nezvimwewo.
(3) Jira reSatin
Izwi rinowanzo shandiswa kureva magadzirirwo akasiyana-siyana ejira redonje rakarukwa nesatin. Izvi zvinosanganisira magadzirirwo akasiyana-siyana esatin uye magadzirirwo esatin, magadzirirwo akasiyana-siyana uye maitiro ematinji esatin.
Machira akachinjika neakachinjika zvinorukwa kanenge katatu pachoga. Pakati pemachira, huwandu hwacho hwakanyanya uye hwakakora, uye pamusoro pemachira pakapfava, pakapfava, uye pakazara nekupenya, asi mutengo wechigadzirwa wakakwira, saka mutengo uchadhura zvakanyanya.
Maitiro ekuruka satin akaomarara, uye imwe chete yewarp neweft yarns ndiyo inofukidza pamusoro nenzira yekureba kwemvura. Warp satin inofukidza pamusoro inonzi warp satin; weft float inofukidza pamusoro inonzi weft satin. Kureba kwemvura inoyerera kunoita kuti pamusoro pejira pave nekupenya kuri nani uye zviri nyore kuratidza chiedza. Saka, kana ukanyatsotarisa jira redonje satin, unonzwa kupenya kushoma.
Kana shinda yeshinda ine kupenya kuri nani ikashandiswa seshinda refu inoyangarara, kupenya kwejira uye kupenya kuchiedza kuchaonekwa zvakanyanya. Semuenzaniso, jira resiriki jacquard rine simba rakajeka serisirika. Tambo refu dzinoyangarara musatin weave dzinogona kupwanyika, kupfava kana kutorwa machira. Saka, simba rejira rerudzi urwu rakaderera pane rejira rakapfava nerakapfava. Jira rine huwandu hwakafanana hweshinda rine huwandu hwakakura hwesatin uye hwakakora, uye mutengo wacho wakakwirawo. Kuruka kwakasarudzika, kuruka kwakapetwa, uye satin ndidzo nzira nhatu dzakakosha dzekuruka shinda dzewarp neweft. Hapana musiyano chaiwo pakati pezvakanaka nezvakaipa, asi maererano nehunyanzvi, satin ndiyo yakanakisa yejira redonje rakachena, uye twill inogamuchirwa zvakanyanya nemhuri zhinji.
Yaive yakakurumbira muEurope mazana emakore apfuura, uye mbatya dzejacquard dzave tsika yemhuri yehumambo nemachinda kuratidza rukudzo nerunako. Nhasi uno, mapatani akanaka nemachira akanaka zvave zviri pachena kuti zvave tsika yemachira epamba emhando yepamusoro. Jira rejacquard rinoshandura warp neweft weave panguva yekuruka kuti riite pateni, huwandu hweshinda hwakanaka, uye zvinodiwa zvezvishandiso zvakakwira zvakanyanya. Warp neweft yejira rejacquard dzinoruka pamwe chete uye dzinochinja-chinja kuti dzigadzire mapatani akasiyana. Magadzirirwo aro akapfava, akapfava uye akapfava, ane kutsetseka kwakanaka, dhirowa uye mhepo inoyerera, uye anokurumidza kupenya.
Nguva yekutumira: Zvita-09-2022