Kubomi bemihla ngemihla, sihlala sisiva ukuba le yi-weave ecacileyo, le yi-twill weave, le yi-satin weave, le yi-jacquard weave njalo njalo. Kodwa eneneni, abantu abaninzi bayadideka emva kokuyimamela. Yintoni entle kangaka ngayo? Namhlanje, masithethe ngeempawu kunye nokuchongwa kwezi laphu zintathu.
1. Uluko olucacileyo, uluko olujijekileyo, kunye ne-satin zimalunga nolwakhiwo lwelaphu
Oko kubizwa ngokuba yi-plain weave, twill weave kunye ne-satin weave (satin) zibhekisa kwisakhiwo selaphu. Ngokuphathelele isakhiwo sodwa, ezi zintathu azilunganga okanye azimbi, kodwa nganye ineempawu zayo ngenxa yokwahluka kwesakhiwo.
(1) Ilaphu Elilula
Ligama eliqhelekileyo lelaphu lekotoni elilukiweyo elineenkcukacha ezahlukeneyo. Ezi ziquka i-plain weave kunye ne-plain weave variable weave, amalaphu e-cotton plain weave ahlukeneyo aneenkcazo ezahlukeneyo kunye neendlela ezahlukeneyo. Ezifana: ilaphu elilukiweyo, ilaphu eliphakathi, ilaphu elincinci, i-gauze poplin, i-half-thread poplin, i-full-line poplin, i-hemp yarn kunye nelaphu elilukiweyo, njl. Kukho iintlobo ezingama-65 zizonke.
Imisonto ye-warp kunye neye-weft idityaniswe nayo yonke eminye imisonto. Ubume belaphu buqinile, buyakrweleka, kwaye umphezulu uthambile. Ngokubanzi, amalaphu e-embroidery aphezulu enziwe ngamalaphu alula.
Ilaphu elilukiweyo elilula lineendawo ezininzi zokuluka ezidityanisiweyo, ubume obuqinileyo, umphezulu ogudileyo, isiphumo esifanayo sokubonakala ngaphambili nangasemva, lilula kwaye lincinci, kwaye umoya ungena kakuhle. Ulwakhiwo lwelaphu elilukiweyo luchaza uxinano lwalo oluphantsi. Ngokubanzi, ixabiso lelaphu elilukiweyo elilula liphantsi kakhulu. Kodwa kukwakho nezinye ilaphu ezilukiweyo ezibiza kakhulu, njengezinye ilaphu ezilukiweyo eziphezulu.
(2) Ilaphu leTwill
Ligama eliqhelekileyo lamalaphu ekotoni aneenkcazo ezahlukeneyo ze-twill weave, kubandakanya utshintsho lwe-twill weave kunye ne-twill weave, kunye neendwangu ezahlukeneyo ze-cotton twill ezineenkcazo ezahlukeneyo kunye neendlela. Ezifana nezi: i-yarn twill, i-yarn serge, i-half-line serge, i-yarn gabardine, i-half-line gabardine, i-yarn khaki, i-half-line khaki, i-full-line khaki, i-brushed twill, njl.njl., zizonke ziintlobo ezingama-44.
Kwilaphu le-twill, i-warp kunye ne-weft zidityaniswa ubuncinane kwimisonto emibini, oko kukuthi, i-2/1 okanye i-3/1. Ukongeza iindawo zokuluka ze-warp kunye ne-weft ukutshintsha ulwakhiwo lwelaphu kubizwa ngokuba yi-twill fabric. Uphawu lolu hlobo lwelaphu kukuba libanzi kwaye linobume obuqinileyo obunemilinganiselo emithathu. Inani lamanani lingama-40, ama-60, njl.
(3) Ilaphu leSatin
Ligama eliqhelekileyo leenkcazo ezahlukeneyo zelaphu lomqhaphu elilukiweyo le-satin. Ezi ziquka iintlobo ngeentlobo zee-satin weaves kunye nee-satin weaves, iinkcukacha ezahlukeneyo kunye neendlela zee-satin weaves.
I-warp kunye ne-weft zidityaniswa ubuncinane rhoqo emva kwentambo ezintathu. Phakathi kwelaphu, uxinano lolona luphezulu kwaye lutyebile, kwaye umphezulu welaphu uthambile, uthambile ngakumbi, kwaye ugcwele ukukhazimla, kodwa ixabiso lemveliso liphezulu, ngoko ke ixabiso liya kuba libiza kakhulu.
Inkqubo yokwaluka i-satin iyinkimbinkimbi, kwaye inye kuphela yemisonto ye-warp kunye ne-weft egubungela umphezulu ngendlela yobude obuhambayo. I-warp satin egubungela umphezulu ibizwa ngokuba yi-warp satin; i-weft float egubungela umphezulu ibizwa ngokuba yi-weft satin. Ubude obude obuhambayo benza umphezulu welaphu ube nokukhanya okungcono kwaye kulula ukubonakalisa ukukhanya. Ke ngoko, ukuba ujonge ngokusondeleyo ilaphu le-cotton satin, uya kuziva ukhanya kancinci.
Ukuba kusetyenziswa intambo yefilament ene-luster engcono njengentambo ende edadayo, ukukhazimla kwelaphu kunye nokukhanya kuya kubonakala ngakumbi. Umzekelo, ilaphu lesilika le-jacquard linesiphumo esikhanyayo esithambileyo. Imisonto emide edadayo kwi-satin weave ithambekele ekuqhekekeni, ekuqhekekeni okanye ekukhutshweni kwemisonto. Ke ngoko, amandla olu hlobo lwelaphu aphantsi kunalawo elaphu elicacileyo nelijiyileyo. Ilaphu elinenani elifanayo lemisonto linobuninzi be-satin kwaye likhulu, kwaye ixabiso liphezulu. I-plain weave, i-twill weave, kunye ne-satin zezona ndlela zintathu zisisiseko zokuluka imisonto ye-warp kunye ne-weft. Akukho mahluko ucacileyo phakathi kokulungileyo nokubi, kodwa ngokwemisebenzi yobugcisa, i-satin ngokuqinisekileyo yeyona ilungileyo kwilaphu lekotoni elicocekileyo, kwaye i-twill yamkelwe ngakumbi ziintsapho ezininzi.
Yayithandwa eYurophu kwiinkulungwane ezininzi ezadlulayo, kwaye impahla yelaphu le-jacquard iye yaba yinto eqhelekileyo kusapho lwasebukhosini nakwiindwalutho ukubonisa isidima nobuhle. Namhlanje, iipateni ezintle kunye neendwangu ezintle ziye zaba yindlela yokunxiba impahla yasekhaya ephezulu. Ilaphu lelaphu le-jacquard litshintsha i-warp kunye ne-weft weave ngexesha lokuluka ukuze lenze ipateni, inani leentambo lilungile, kwaye iimfuno zezinto eziluhlaza ziphezulu kakhulu. Iintambo ze-warp kunye ne-weft zelaphu le-jacquard ziyalukwa kwaye ziyatshintshatshintsha ukuze zenze iipateni ezahlukeneyo. Ubume buthambile, buthambile kwaye buthambile, bunobuthambile obuhle, bunomoya ovulekileyo, kwaye bukhawuleza umbala.
Ixesha lokuthumela: Disemba-09-2022