Komai nawa ƙwararrun masana suturar maza suka karanta bikin ƙarshe na wannan kwat bayan cutar ta barke, da alama maza suna da sabon buƙatu na yanki biyu.Duk da haka, kamar abubuwa da yawa, ana canza kwat da wando na rani tare da tsaga, sabunta siffar seersucker, kuma a ƙarshe koyi son folds na lilin, kuma idan cikin shakka, za ku iya sa takalma masu laushi masu laushi.
Ina son kwat da wando, amma ina sa su ne domin suna sa ni farin ciki, ba wai don sana’ata ta tilasta mini yin haka ba, don haka nakan sa su sosai.A zamanin yau, yana da wuya a yi tunanin cewa akwai ayyuka da yawa da za a sa kwat: Mercedes S-Class da BMW 7 Series drivers, jami'an tsaro masu tsada masu naɗe da igiya a kwalansu, Barristers, masu tambayoyin aiki, da ma ƴan siyasa.Musamman 'yan siyasa sun sanya kwat da wando da raye-rayen tashin hankali, kamar yadda aka gani a G7;Manufar kamar ita ce a cimma sifa mai ɗaci tare da ƙarancin jin daɗi.
Amma ga waɗanda daga cikinmu waɗanda ba su buɗe oligarchs ko shiga cikin ƙungiyoyin gwamnatoci ba, kwat da wando na bazara wata dama ce ta shakatawa kuma mu bar kanmu a hankali mu koma cikin yanayin da ba na yau da kullun ba.Dole ne mu yi la'akari da abin da muke sawa don bukukuwan lambu, wasan kwaikwayo na opera, tarurruka na gasa, wasan tennis, da kuma abincin rana na waje (nau'i mai mahimmanci: idan sun ba da wani abu mafi girma fiye da burgers da giya na masu zaman kansu, da fatan za a bar launin siminti. kayan aiki Shorts… yi tunani game da shi, kawai jefar da su).
Halin maza na Birtaniyya game da lokacin rani mai ban sha'awa, wani lokacin yana kama da binary, amma akwai hanyar da za a zana tsakanin Charybdis a cikin wando na kaya da Scylla a cikin rani kara, manyan maza daga Del Monte da Sandhill.Nasarar yawanci ta ta'allaka ne wajen yin zaɓin masana'anta daidai.
A cikin ƴan shekarun da suka gabata, seersucker ya rabu da ƙa'idodin ƙa'idodinsa na bakin ciki shuɗi ko ratsi ja kuma ya fito daga pupa kamar malam buɗe ido."Na sanya mafi kyawun kwat da wando don Wimbledon da Goodwood a wannan shekara fiye da na shekaru 10 da suka gabata.Ana samun sabuntawa na gaske, ya danganta da launi, "in ji Terry Haste na Kent & Haste, Savile Street, a halin yanzu Mai gani mai launi da yawa yana nuna masa Ken Kesey a cikin zuciyarsa."Akwai shuɗi da kore, shuɗi da zinariya, shuɗi da launin ruwan kasa, da grid da ratsi murabba'i."
Ɗaya daga cikin shugabannin masu hangen nesa shine Cacciopoli, mai samar da masana'anta a Naples, amma seersucker ba kawai yana samar da launi ba, amma kuma yana kawar da damuwa game da creases: creases shine batu;a gaskiya, an riga an ƙaddamar da shi, an riga an huta Ee, ya dace da amfani da rani.
Drake's Michael Hill ya ce wannan ji na kusantowa shine kuma dalilin shaharar lilin a wannan shekara.“Babban abin burgewa shine rigar lilin mu.Babu wani abu mai juyin juya hali game da launuka masu nasara: navy, khaki, hazel, da taba."Amma bambanci shi ne cewa ya mayar da hankali ga abin da ya kira A cikin tufafi na "wasan kwat da wando", ya bambanta shi da tela na yau da kullum.
“Yana game da rungumar crease.Ba ku so ku zama masu daraja da yawa, kuma gaskiyar cewa za ku iya jefa shi a cikin injin wanki yana taimakawa wajen sa kwat da wando ya fi dacewa.Maza suna son yin sutura ta wata hanya dabam kuma a yanke su da rigar polo ko T-shirt don karya Jaket da wando.A wannan lokacin rani, muna ƙara ganin salon sutura masu ƙanƙara da ke haɗe sawa na yau da kullun tare da lalacewa na yau da kullun, kyawawan tsoffin iyakoki na ƙwallon kwando da ƙwanƙarar zane mai laushi tare da kwat da wando.Yi daidai, yana da dynamite.”
Wani ɓangare na dalilin sake yin la'akari da kwat din shine Drake baya sayar da kwat din wasan a matsayin kwat da wando, amma a matsayin tsaga wanda za'a iya sawa azaman kwat da wando.Wannan dabi'ar ilimin halin dan Adam, mai siyar da kayan rani na yau da kullun azaman guda biyu masu daidaitawa daban, shima yana taka rawa a cikin Connolly.Yana ba da sigar jure hawaye, wanda shugabar Connolly Isabel Ettedgui ya bayyana a matsayin "mai duban fasaha."
"Muna sayar da su a matsayin jaket da wando na roba," in ji Ettedgui.“Maza suna son wannan don suna tunanin za su iya siya daban, ko da ba za su iya ba.Mun sayar da shi ga masu shekaru 23 da kuma masu shekaru 73 masu son launin fata kuma ba sa safa."
Zegna yana da irin wannan labari.Daraktan kirkire-kirkire Alessandro Sartori ya bayyana kwat da wando na yau da kullun a matsayin shahararru ga abokan ciniki na al'ada da tela, "Suna sanya kwat da wando don jin daɗin kansu.".Shirye-shiryen sawa wani lamari ne."Suna siyan abubuwa guda ɗaya daga babban mai zanen tufafi, su zaɓi sama ko aiki, su yi kwat da wando wanda ya dace da sama da ƙasa," in ji shi.An yi masana'anta da murɗaɗɗen siliki da cashmere, kuma haɗaɗɗen lilin, auduga da lilin suna amfani da sabbin pastels.
Shahararren tela na Neapolitan Rubinacci shima a fili ya juya zuwa mafi kyawun kyan gani."Park na Safari shine mai nasara a wannan lokacin rani saboda yana da dadi da sauƙi," in ji Mariano Rubinacci."Abin shakatawa ne saboda kamar rigar da ba ta da lullubi, amma an sa ta a matsayin jaket, don haka tana iya zama na yau da kullun, kuma duk aljihunta na da amfani."
Da yake magana game da tufafi na yau da kullum, Ina matukar kishi da jaket ɗin auduga na Madras ƙaramin ɗana da aka saya a kasuwar Portobello: tufafi da ikon Proust wanda ke haifar da siffar Amurka a zamanin Eisenhower.Mafi ƙarfi da cak, mafi kyau... Amma da wando.
Hatta Huntsman na babban katangar Savile Street ya lura da yanayin rabuwa.Daraktan kirkire-kirkire Campbell Carey ya ce: "Kafin Covid, mutane sun fi son sanya riguna da wando masu kyau zuwa tarurruka."“A wannan lokacin rani, ba za mu iya siyar da isassun rigunan rigar rigunan da aka saka ba.Tsarin da aka saka yana nufin ana iya karkatar da su.Ya zo cikin inuwa da launuka iri-iri don sanya shi dacewa sosai tare da haɗin gwiwar ku, kuma kuna iya cire shi don barin iska a ciki da waje."Carey ya kuma bayar da abin da ya kira "yanke karshen mako."Har yanzu yana cikin silhouette na Huntsman;manyan hannaye, maɓalli, da kugu, “amma layin kafaɗa ya ɗan yi laushi, mun tausasa tsarin zane, tsarin gaba duka ɗaya ne, yana maye gurbin gashin doki [mai wuya].”
Maganar rigar, manufar ita ce a sanya ka kamar kana sanye da rigar wuya, maimakon kawai ka fito daga jana'izar mafia ka yi gaggawar kwance igiyarka tare da cire maballin rigarka.Shawarata ita ce a sa rigar rigar lilin mai hazaka kamar Bel ta Barcelona.Ginin sa ba shi da abin wuya da maɓalli na sama, amma ƙarshen ciki yana da kyau, kuma abin wuya yana ci gaba da birgima saboda maɓallan a wurin abin wuya.
Daga can, za ku iya ƙara zabar riguna na hutu na buɗe wuyansa, abin wuya shine irin rigar rigar Lido mai wa'azi wanda mai tsara kayan sawa Scott Fraser Simpson ya yi.Idan kun kasance mai ban sha'awa, duba asusun Instagram na Wei Koh, wanda ya kafa Rake Tailored.Ya shafe wani lokaci a tsare a Singapore, inda ya dace da adadi mai yawa na kwat da wando da rigar Hawai da kuma harbin sakamakon.
Bikin zai dawo da kansa zuwa jerin jigogi na masu magana da jigogi a Kenwood House (da kan layi) ranar 4 ga Satumba.Allurar duk wannan zai zama farkawa da ruhi da yuwuwar sake fasalin duniya bayan barkewar cutar.Don yin tikiti, da fatan za a ziyarci nan
Amma ko da a yau annashuwa tailoring yanayi, akwai sauran sau lokacin da Hawaiian shirts iya la'akari de trop da kuma mutane na iya samun shi mafi dadi (ko m) sa taye;don wannan, ɗaurin siliki da aka saka shine cikakken zaɓi.Abokiyar tafiya ce mai kyau, domin idan aka murɗe ta a cikin ƙwallo aka cusa a kusurwar akwati, ba za ta yi gyale ko ta lalace ba.Ko da yake yana da kama da sabani, yana kama da annashuwa sosai-idan ba ku yarda da ni ba, don Allah hoton Google David Hockney da taye mai saƙa, wanda zai iya amfani da shi da wando mai fenti da naɗe hannayen riga.
Zai zama mai ban sha'awa don ganin ko haɗin haɗin gwiwa zai iya tsira daga hasashen Huntsman's Carey.Wannan rabuwa har yanzu yana da nisa a gaba.Idan wannan lokacin rani ya kasance game da brisk mesh blazer, yanzu ya mai da hankalinsa ga wani bangare na kwat da wando guda biyu, kuma ya yi wahayi zuwa ga kewayon zaɓuɓɓukan seersucker, yana aiki akan abin da ya kira jerin wando na "fashionable shorts".“Suna shekara mai zuwa."Ee," in ji shi, "amma kada ku yi kuskure, jaket ɗin kwat da wando da gajeren wando suna nan."
Lokacin aikawa: Satumba-13-2021