Akunandaba ukuthi bangaki ochwepheshe bezingubo zabesilisa abafunde umcimbi wokugcina wale suti ngemuva kwalolu bhubhane, amadoda abonakala enesidingo esivuselelwe salezi zingcezu ezimbili.Kodwa-ke, njengezinto eziningi, i-suit yasehlobo iguqulwa ngokuhlukaniswa, i-seersucker shape ebuyekeziwe, futhi ekugcineni ufunde ukuthanda imiphetho yelineni, futhi uma ungabaza, ungakwazi futhi ukugqoka izicathulo ezithambile.
Ngiyawathanda amasudi, kodwa ngiwagqoka ngoba ayangijabulisa, hhayi ngoba umsebenzi wami ungiphoqa ukuthi ngenze njalo, ngakho ngiwagqoka ngendlela engajwayelekile.Kulezi zinsuku, kunzima ukucabanga ukuthi miningi kakhulu imisebenzi yokugqoka isudi: abashayeli beMercedes S-Class kanye neBMW 7 Series, onogada ababizayo abanezintambo eziboshwe emakhololini abo, amajaji, abaxoxisana nabo, kanye nosopolitiki.Ikakhulukazi abezombangazwe babegqoka amasudi futhi bedansela uvalo, njengoba kubonakala ku-G7;umgomo wawubonakala uwukuthola uhlobo oluyisidina nobumnandi obuncane bobuhle.
Kodwa kulabo bethu abangavuli ama-oligarchs noma babambe iqhaza ezinkundleni zokuxhumana zikahulumeni, isudi yasehlobo iyithuba lokuphumula futhi sizivumele ngobumnene sibuyele esimweni esihlelekile.Kufanele sicabangele lokho esikugqokayo emaphathini asengadini, imidlalo ye-opera evulekile, imihlangano yokuncintisana, imidlalo yethenisi, kanye nezidlo zasemini zangaphandle (ithiphu eliwusizo: uma benikeza okuthile okuphakeme kakhulu kunamabhega nobhiya welebula yangasese, sicela uyeke ombala usimende. ukusebenzisa Okufushane...cabanga ngakho, vele ukulahle).
Ukusabela kwamadoda aseBrithani ehlobo elibonakala lingenangqondo ngezinye izikhathi kubonakala kufana kakhulu, kodwa kukhona umzila ongadwetshwa phakathi kuka-Charybdis ogqoke izikhindi ezithwala impahla kanye no-Scylla ogqoke amasudi ehlobo, amadoda aholayo avela e-Del Monte nase-Sandhill.Impumelelo ngokuvamile ilele ekwenzeni ukukhetha kwendwangu efanele.
Eminyakeni embalwa edlule, i-seersucker iye yalahla i-orthodoxy yemithende yayo emincane eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka noma ebomvu futhi yavela ku-pupa njengovemvane olumibalabala.“Ngenze amasudi amaningi e-seersucker eWimbledon naseGoodwood kulo nyaka kunaseminyakeni eyi-10 edlule.Ivuselelwa ngempela, kuya ngombala,” kusho uTerry Haste we-Kent & Haste, Savile Street, okwamanje i-multi-color seersucker imkhombisa uKen Kesey enhliziyweni yakhe."Kunemigqa eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka nokuluhlaza, eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka negolide, eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka nokunsundu, kanye nemithende yesikwele."
Omunye wabaholi be-seersucker ecatshangelwayo nguCacciopoli, umphakeli wezindwangu eNaples, kodwa i-seersucker ayinikezi kuphela umbala, kodwa futhi iqeda ukukhathazeka mayelana nama-creases: ama-creases iphuzu;empeleni, i-pre-creased, pre-relaxed Yebo, ifanele ukusetshenziswa kwehlobo.
UMichael Hill kaDrake uthe yilo muzwa ongenekayo futhi oyisizathu sokuduma kwelineni kulo nyaka.“Into yethu enkulu isudi yethu yelineni.Akukho lutho olushintshayo ngemibala ewinayo: i-navy, ikhaki, i-hazel, nogwayi.”Kodwa umehluko wukuthi ugxile kulokhu akubize Ngemvunulo ye-“game suit”, uyihlukanise nomthungi osemthethweni.
“Kumayelana nokwanga i-crease.Awufuni ukuba yigugu kakhulu, futhi iqiniso lokuthi ungakwazi ukuliphonsa emshinini wokuwasha lisiza ukwenza isudi ingeneke.Amadoda afuna ukugqoka ngendlela ehlukile futhi asike nge-polo shirt noma i-T-shirt ukuze aphule amaJacket namabhulukwe.Kuleli hlobo, sibona izitayela eziningi zokugqoka ezisezingeni eliphansi ezihlanganisa ukugqokwa okusemthethweni nokugqoka okungakahleleki, amakepisi amadala e-baseball amadala kanye nezingezansi ezithambile zeseyili ezinamasudi.Lungisani, i-dynamite.”
Ingxenye yesizathu sokucabanga kabusha ngesudi ukuthi uDrake akathengisi isudi yomdlalo njengesudi, kodwa njengokuhlukaniswa okungagqokwa njengesudi.Le psychology ebonakala iphikisa, ithengisa ingubo yasehlobo evamile njengezingcezu ezimbili ezimeshayo ngokuhlukana, nayo idlala indima ku-Connolly.Ihlinzeka ngenguqulo ekwazi ukumelana nezinyembezi, umphathi wakwa-Connolly u-Isabel Ettedgui ayichaza ngokuthi “i-seersucker yobuchwepheshe.”
"Siwathengisa njengamajakhethi namabhulukwe okhalo anwebekayo," kusho u-Ettedgui.”Abesilisa bathanda lokhu ngoba becabanga ukuthi bangakwazi ukuthenga ngokuhlukana kwabo, noma bengakwenzi.Sidayisele abaneminyaka engu-23 nabaneminyaka engu-73 abathanda imibala engavamile futhi abangawafaki amasokisi.”
UZegna unendaba efanayo.Umqondisi wezobuciko u-Alessandro Sartori uchaze amasudi asemthethweni akudala njengadumile kumakhasimende enziwe ngokwezifiso, “Bagqoka amasudi ukuze bazijabulise.”.Ukulungela ukugqokwa kungenye indaba.“Bathenga izinto zomuntu ngamunye kumsiki wengqephu omkhulu, bakhethe phezulu noma umsebenzi onzima, bese benza isudi ehambisana naphezulu naphansi,” usho kanje.Indwangu yenziwe ngosilika osontiwe kanye ne-cashmere, futhi inhlanganisela yelineni, ukotini nelineni isebenzisa ama-pastel amasha.
Umthungi we-Neapolitan odumile u-Rubinacci naye waphendukela kubuhle obungavamile."ISafari Park iyona ewinile kuleli hlobo ngoba ikhululekile futhi kulula," kusho uMariano Rubinacci.“Kuyaphumuza ngoba kufana nehembe elingenawo ulayini kodwa ligqokwa njengejakhethi ngakho liyakwazi ukusemthethweni futhi namaphakethe alo ayasebenza.”
Ngikhuluma ngezingubo zakudala, nginomona kakhulu ngejazi likakotini laseMadras indodana yami encane elithenge emakethe yasePortobello: ingubo enamandla e-Proust evusa isithombe saseMelika ngesikhathi se-Eisenhower.Uma isheke linamandla, lingcono... Kodwa ngebhulukwe elingenalutho.
Ngisho noHuntsman wenqaba enkulu kaSavile Street uwubonile umkhuba ocacile wokuhlukana.Umqondisi weCreative uCampbell Carey uthe: "Ngaphambi kweCovid, abantu babezimisele kakhulu ukugqoka amajakhethi amasudi namabhulukwe amahle emihlanganweni."“Kuleli hlobo, asikwazi ukudayisa amajakhethi amasudi anezikhala avulekile.Isakhiwo esilukiweyo sisho ukuthi zingasonteka.Iza ngemibala ehlukahlukene nemibala ukuze iyenze ibe nezinto ezihlukahlukene kakhulu ngengxube yakho, futhi ungayisusa ukuze uvule futhi ukhiphe umoya.”UCarey uphinde wanikeza lokho akubiza ngokuthi “ukusikeka kwangempelasonto.”Kusese ku-silhouette ka-Huntsman;amakhwapha aphakeme, inkinobho, nokhalo, “kodwa umugqa wehlombe uthe ukuthamba kancane, sathambisa isakhiwo seseyili, futhi isakhiwo sangaphambili siyinto eyodwa, sithatha isikhundla sehhashi [eliqinile].”
Uma sikhuluma ngamahembe, umqondo uwukwenza ubukeke sengathi ugqoke ihembe elinentamo evulekile, kunokuba uvele uvela emngcwabeni wama-mafia futhi wakhumula uthayi ngokushesha futhi waqaqa ukhololo wehembe lakho.Isiphakamiso sami siwukuba ugqoke ihembe elihlakaniphile elinenkinobho yelineni elinjenge-Bel of Barcelona.Ukwakhiwa kwayo akunayo ibhande lentamo kanye nenkinobho yangaphezulu, kodwa isiphetho sangaphakathi sibukeka sihlakaniphile, futhi ikhola ilokhu igoqa ngenxa yezinkinobho endaweni yekholomu.
Ukusuka lapho, ungaqhubeka nokukhetha amahembe eholide entamo evulekile, ikhola iwuhlobo lwehembe elinekhola ye-Lido elishunyayelwa umklami wezingubo zabesilisa uScott Fraser Simpson.Uma ungumuntu omusha, hlola i-akhawunti ye-Instagram ka-Wei Koh, umsunguli we-Rake Tailored.Wachitha isikhathi evalelwe eSingapore, efanisa inani lakhe elikhulu lamasudi namahembe aseHawaii futhi edubula imiphumela.
Ifestivali izobuya mathupha ohlelweni lwethu oluvamile lwezipikha nezindikimba e-Kenwood House (kanye naku-inthanethi) ngomhla ka-4 Septhemba.Ukujova konke lokhu kuzoba wukuvuselela umoya kanye nethuba lokucabanga kabusha umhlaba ngemuva kwalolu bhubhane.Ukuze ubhukhe amathikithi, sicela uvakashele lapha
Kodwa ngisho nasesimweni sezulu esikhululekile sanamuhla sokuthunga, kusenezikhathi lapho amahembe aseHawaii angase abhekwe njenge-de trop futhi abantu bangase bakuthole kukhululekile (noma kungagqami kakhulu) ukugqoka uthayi;ngenxa yalokhu, izibopho zikasilika eziboshwe ziyisinqumo esiphelele.Iwumngane omuhle kakhulu wokuhamba, ngoba uma isontekile ebholeni futhi igxishwe ekhoneni lepotimende, ngeke ishwabene noma igxumeke.Nakuba kuzwakala kungqubuzana, kubukeka kukhululekile kakhulu-uma ungangikholwa, ngicela isithombe sika-Google David Hockney nothayi onwetshiwe, angasisebenzisa namabhulukwe adaywe ngopende nemikhono egoqiwe.
Kuzokujabulisa ukubona ukuthi othayi abalukiweyo bangasinda yini ekubikezelweni kukaHuntsman's Carey.Lokhu kuhlukana kusenebanga elide okusamele kuhanjwe.Uma leli hlobo limayelana ne-brisk mesh blazer, manje uphendulela ukunaka kwakhe kwenye ingxenye yesudi eneziqephu ezimbili, futhi egqugquzelwe uhla lwezinketho ze-seersucker, usebenza kulokho akubiza ngokuthi "ama-shorts emfashini".“Bangonyaka ozayo.“Yebo,” kusho yena, “kodwa ungalenzi iphutha, ijakhethi yesudi nezikhindi zikhona lapha.”
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Sep-13-2021