Wareware ki te tari, kei te hokohoko ngā wāhine i ngā kākahu hei mau

I tēnei raumati me te ngahuru, i mua i te hokinga mai o ngā wāhine ki te tari, te āhua nei kei te hokohoko kākahu rātou, kei te haere hoki ki waho ki te whakawhanaunga anō. Kua tino hokona ngā kākahu o ia rā, ngā tihi me ngā hāte ataahua, ngā tarau tīni whānui me ngā tarau tīni tika, me ngā tarau poto i roto i ngā toa hokohoko.
Ahakoa he maha ngā kamupene e kī tonu ana ki ngā kaimahi me tīmata rātou ki te hoki mai, e kī ana ngā kaihokohoko ehara te hoko kākahu mahi i te kaupapa matua a te kiritaki.
Engari, kua kite rātou i te pikinga ake o te hoko kākahu hei mau tonu - ki ngā pāti, ki ngā whakanuinga, ki ngā tunutunu i te kāinga, ki ngā wharekai o waho, ki ngā tina me ngā hoa, me ngā hararei. He mea nui ngā tānga me ngā tae kanapa hei whakarei ake i te wairua o ngā kaihoko.
Heoi anō, ka whakahōuhia ā mua ō rātou kākahu mahi, ā, kua matapaetia e ngā kaihokohoko te āhua o ngā kākahu tari hou i te ngahuru.
I uiuitia e te WWD ngā kaihokohoko nui ki te ako atu mō ngā mahi hokohoko o ēnei rohe me ō rātou tirohanga mō te huarahi hou ki te whakakakahu i ngā kākahu o te ao.
"Mō tā mātou pakihi, kāore mātou i kite i a ia e hokohoko ana. I arotahi ia ki ōna kākahu tika, ki ōna kākahu raumati. Kāore mātou i kite i te pikinga ake o te hiahia mō ngā kākahu mahi tuku iho," te kī a te kaihokohoko matua o Intermix, a Divya Mathur, i hokona te kamupene e Gap Inc. ki te kamupene hea tūmataiti a Altamont Capital Partners i tēnei marama.
I whakamārama ia mai i te mate urutā o Poutū-te-rangi 2020, kāore anō ngā kaihoko kia hokohoko i te puna kua hipa. "Kāore ia i te whakahou i ana kākahu o te wā mō te tata ki te rua tau. [Ināianei] kua aro katoa ia ki te puna," i kī ia i aro ia ki te wehe atu i tana mirumiru, te hoki ki te ao me te hiahia ki ngā kākahu, e ai ki a Mathur.
"Kei te rapu ia i tētahi kākahu raumati māmā noa iho. He kākahu poplin māmā ka taea e ia te mau me ētahi hū. Kei te rapu hoki ia i ngā kākahu hararei," tana kī. I kī atu a Mathur ko ngā waitohu pēnei i a Staud, Veronica Beard, Jonathan Simkhai me Zimmermann ētahi o ngā waitohu nui e hokona ana i tēnei wā.
"Ehara tēnei i te mea e hiahia ana ia ki te hoko i nāianei. I mea ia, 'Kāore au i te harikoa ki te hoko i taku mea kē,'" tana kī. I kī a Mathur he mea nui tonu te kikokore ki a Intermix. "Mō ngā mea e rongonui ana i nāianei, kei te rapu ia i te mea hou rawa atu. Ki a mātou, he takirua tarau hope-teitei tēnei e rere tika ana i roto i ngā waewae, me te putanga tenimu pakupaku o ngā tau 90. Kei Re/done mātou. Kei te pai te mahi a ngā waitohu pēnei i a AGoldE me AGoldE. He tino hokohoko te tenimu whakawhiti-mua a AGoldE nā ōna taipitopito hou whakamere. Kei te mura ngā tarau kikokore a Re/done. Hei tāpiri, he tino pai te pānga horoi a Moussy Vintage, ā, he tauira whakamere whakamere," tana kī.
Ko ngā tarau poto tētahi atu momo rongonui. I tīmata a Intermix ki te hoko tarau poto tenimu i te marama o Pēpuere, ā, kua rau ngā mea kua hokona. "I te nuinga o te wā ka kite mātou i te pikinga ake o ngā tarau poto tenimu i te rohe tonga. I tīmata mātou ki te kite i tēnei pikinga ake i waenganui o Poutū-te-rangi, engari i tīmata i te marama o Pēpuere," te kī a Mather. I mea ia ko ēnei katoa he mea hei whakapai ake i te taunga, ā, he "tino wera" te tuitui.
"Engari he roa ake te ahua o tā rātou kākahu korekore. He āhua whatiwhati, he tapahi hoki. He ma ake hoki, he roa ake, ā, he rite te hope ki te putea pepa," tana kī.
Mō ā rātou kākahu mahi, i kī ia ko te nuinga o āna kiritaki he hunga noho tawhiti, he hunga whakauru rānei i te raumati. "Kei te whakamahere rātou kia tīmata anō te oranga i mua i te mate urutā i te ngahuru." I kite ia i te nui o ngā nekehanga i roto i ngā kākahu whatu me ngā hāte whatu.
"Ko tana kākahu o nāianei he tarau tiini tino pai me te hāte ataahua, he hāte rānei tino ataahua." Ko ētahi o ngā tihi e hokona ana e rātou he tihi wāhine nā Ulla Johnson me Sea New York. "He tihi whatu tānga ataahua ēnei waitohu, ahakoa he taipitopito tānga, he taipitopito whatu rānei," tana kī.
Ina mau tarau tiini ana, he pai ake ki ana kaihoko ngā tikanga horoi me ngā momo taunga whakamere, kaua ki te kī "E hiahia ana ahau ki tētahi takirua tarau tiini mā." Ko tana momo tarau tiini pai rawa atu ko te tarau hope teitei tae noa ki ngā waewae.
I kī a Mathur kei te hoko tonu ia i ngā hū hou, āhua hou hoki. "E tino kite ana mātou i te pikinga nui o te pakihi hū," tana kī.
"He rawe tā mātou pakihi. He urupare pai tēnei mō te tau 2019. Ka tīmata anō mātou ki te whakawhanake i tā mātou pakihi. Kei te whakarato mātou i tētahi pakihi utu-katoa pai ake i tērā o te tau 2019," tana kī.
I kite anō hoki ia i ngā hokonga nui o ngā kākahu huihuinga. Kāore ā rātou kiritaki e rapu ana i ngā kākahu pōro. Ka haere ia ki ngā marena, ki ngā rā whānau, ki ngā hui whakanui i te pakeketanga me ngā hui whakawhiwhinga tohu. Kei te rapu ia i ngā hua he mea matatau ake i ngā kākahu o ia rā kia taea ai e ia te noho hei manuhiri ki te marena. I kite a Intermix i te hiahia mō Zimmermann. "Kei te whakamanamana mātou mō ngā mea katoa i kawea mai e mātou mai i taua waitohu," te kī a Mather.
"He mahi ā te iwi i tēnei raumati, engari kāore he kākahu hei mau. He tere ake te tere o te whakaoranga i tā mātou i whakaaro ai," tana kī. I te hokonga mai a Intermix mō tēnei wā i te marama o Hepetema, i whakaaro rātou ka roa te wā e hoki mai ai. I tīmata te hokinga mai i te marama o Poutū-te-rangi me Āperira. "I paku mataku mātou i reira, engari kua taea e mātou te whai i te hua," tana kī.
I te katoa, e 50% o tana pakihi ko ngā kākahu o ia rā papai. "E 5% ki te 8% o tā mātou pakihi ko tā mātou 'pakihi huihuinga' pono," tana kī.
I kī atu ia mō ngā wāhine e hararei ana, ka hokona e rātou ngā kākahu LoveShackFancy me Agua a Agua Bendita, ā, ko ēnei he kākahu hararei tūturu.
I mea atu a Roopal Patel, te tumuaki tuarua me te kaiwhakahaere ahua i Saks Fifth Avenue: "Ināianei, kei te hokohoko ngā wāhine. Ehara i te mea hei hoki ki te tari anake te kakahu a ngā wāhine, engari hei oranga mō rātou. Ka haere rātou ki te hokohoko ki te hoko kākahu ki ngā wharekai, ki te kai parakuihi, ki te tina rānei, ki te noho rānei i roto i te wharekai i waho mō te tina." I mea ia kei te hoko rātou i "ngā kākahu ataahua, wātea, whakangā, oraora, me te kanapa ka taea te oma haere me te whakapai ake i ō rātou wairua." Ko ngā waitohu rongonui i roto i te ao o nāianei ko Zimmermann me Tove. , Jonathan Simkhai me ALC.
Mō ngā tarau tīni, kua whakapono tonu a Patel he rite ngā tarau tīni ki tētahi T-hāte mā. "Mēnā he mea nui, kei te hanga ia i tana ake kākahu tenimu. Kei te titiro ia ki ngā hope teitei, ngā kākahu pere o ngā tau 70, ngā waewae tika, ngā momo horoinga, ngā momo tapahi hoa tāne. Ahakoa he tenimu mā, he tenimu pango rānei, he pūhao turi rānei, me ngā huinga koti me ngā tarau tīni me ētahi atu kākahu e rite ana," tana kī.
Ki tōna whakaaro kua noho te tenimu hei wāhanga o tana kai matua, ahakoa ka haere ia ki waho i te pō, ka waea atu rānei i ēnei rā. I te wā o te COVID-19, ka mau ngā wāhine i te tenimu, i ngā hāte ataahua, me ngā hū kanapa.
"Ki taku whakaaro ka whakaute ngā wāhine i ngā āhuatanga o te tenimu, engari ki taku whakaaro ka whakamahia e ngā wāhine tēnei whai wāhitanga ki te whakakakahu pai. Ki te mau tarau rātou i ia rā, kāore tetahi e hiahia ki te mau tarau. Mā te tari tātou e whai wāhi ki te mau i ō tātou kākahu pai rawa atu, i ō tātou rekereke teitei teitei me ngā hū tino pai, me te whakakakahu ataahua," te kī a Patel.
I mea ia, i te huringa o te rangi, kāore ngā kaihoko e hiahia ki te mau koti. "E hiahia ana ia kia ataahua, kia ngahau. Ka hokona e mātou ngā tae harikoa, ka hokona e mātou ngā hu kanapa. Kei te hoko mātou i ngā whare noho whakamere," tana kī. "Ka whakamahia e ngā wāhine e aroha ana ki te ahua hei whakanui i ō rātou ake kāhua. He mea nui kia pai te ahua," tana kī.
I mea atu a Arielle Siboni, te kaiwhakahaere o ngā kākahu wahine o Bloomingdale: "Ināianei, e kite ana mātou i ngā kaihoko e aro nui ana ki ngā hua 'hoko inaianei, kakahu inaianei'," tae atu ki ngā kākahu raumati me ngā kākahu hararei. "Ki a mātou, ko te tikanga he maha ngā remu roa māmā, ngā tarau poto tenimu me ngā kākahu poplin. He tino kaha te kaukau me te hipoki i a mātou."
"Mō ngā kākahu, he pai ake ngā momo kākahu bohemian, te whatu me te poplin, me te midi tānga," tana kī. He tino hokohoko ngā kākahu a ALC, Bash, Maje me Sandro. I mea ia kua ngaro tonu ia i tēnei kiritaki nā te mea he maha āna tarau werawera me ngā kākahu whakamarie i a ia e noho ana i te kāinga. "Inaianei kua whai take ia ki te hoko," tana tāpiri.
Ko tētahi atu wāhanga kaha ko ngā tarau poto. "He tino pai ngā tarau poto tenimu, inā koa mai i AGoldE," tana kī. I mea ia: "E hiahia ana te tangata kia noho noa, ā, he tokomaha tonu te hunga e mahi ana i te kāinga me te Zoom. Kāore pea koe e kite he aha ngā raro." I mea ia kei te hokomaha ngā momo tarau poto katoa; ko ētahi he roa ake ngā tuitui o roto, ko ētahi he tarau poto.
Mō ngā kākahu e hoki ana ki te tari, i kī a Siboni i kite ia i te maha o ngā koti hūtu "e tino piki haere ana, he mea tino whakahihiri." I mea ia kei te tīmata te iwi ki te hoki ki te tari, engari e tumanako ana ia ka pakari katoa i te ngahuru. Ka tae mai ngā hua ngahuru a Bloomingdale i te tīmatanga o Ākuhata.
Kei te hokohoko tonu ngā tarau tīni angiangi, he wāhanga nui tēnei o tā rātou pakihi. I kite ia i te hurihanga o te tarau tīni ki ngā tarau waewae tika, i tīmata i mua i te tau 2020. Kei te hokohoko tonu ngā tarau tīni a Māmā me ētahi atu momo kāhua tawhito. "Ka whakakaha ake a TikTok i tēnei nekehanga ki tētahi momo kāhua whānui ake," tana kī. I kite ia he mea tā-mata ngā tarau tīni Miramar a Rag & Bone, ā, he rite te āhua ki tētahi tarau tīni, engari i rite ki tētahi tarau hākinakina.
Ko ētahi o ngā waitohu tenimu i tino pai te mahi ko Mother, AGoldE me AG. Kua roa a Paige Mayslie e hoko ana i ngā tarau oma i roto i ngā tae rerekē.
I te taha o runga, nā te mea he āhua noa iho te raro, he pakari tonu ngā T-hate. Hei tāpiri, he tino rongonui hoki ngā hāte bohemian korekore, ngā hāte prairie, me ngā hāte he rei whakairo me ngā kamo.
I kī a Siboni he maha hoki ā rātou kākahu ahiahi whakamere, kanapa hoki, he kākahu mā mō ngā wahine marena hou, me ngā kākahu ahiahi huatau mō te pō whakanui. Mō ngā marena raumati, he tino pai ētahi kākahu mai i a Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua me Nookie mō ngā manuhiri. I kī ia he tino taumaha ngā kākahu e mau ana a LoveShackFancy, "he tino mīharo." He maha hoki ā rātou kākahu hararei bohemian me ngā kākahu ka taea te mau ki te ua marena.
I kī atu a Siboni he tino kaha te pakihi rēhita a te kaihokohoko, e whakaatu ana tēnei kei te huri te tokorua i ō rāua rā marena, ā, kei te nui te tono mō ngā kākahu manuhiri me ngā kākahu wahine marena hou.
I kī a Yumi Shin, te kaipakihi matua o Bergdorf Goodman, i te tau kua hipa, he ngāwari ā rātou kaihoko, he hoko hua motuhake e tu ke ana i ngā waea Zoom me ngā taonga papai whaiaro.
"I a tātou e hoki ana ki te āhua noa, ka tino harikoa tātou. He tino harikoa hou te hokohoko. Ehara i te mea mō te hoki ki te tari anake, engari mō te huihuinga kua roa e tatarihia ana me te whānau me ngā hoa e whakaaro ana ki ngā mahere haere. Me tino harikoa," te kī a Shen.
Nō nā tata nei, kua kite rātou i te hiahia ki ngā āhua aroha, tae atu ki ngā ringaringa roa, ngā taipitopito rūrū rānei. I kī ia he pai te mahi a Ulla Johnson. "He waitohu tino pai ia, ā, he maha ngā momo kiritaki e kōrero ana ia ki a ia," te kī a Shin, me te tāpiri atu kei te pai te hoko o ngā hua katoa o te waitohu. "Me kī atu ahau ko ia [Johnson] te tohu o te mate urutā. Ka hokona e mātou ngā remu roa, ngā remu roa-waenga, ā, kei te tīmata mātou ki te kite i ngā remu poto ake. He rongonui ia mō āna tānga, ā, ka hokona hoki e mātou āna pekepeke tae kotahi. Kei te mahi pai ngā tarau, te pekepeke kikorangi māori mā mātou."
Ko ngā kākahu mō ngā huihuinga nui tētahi atu wāhanga rongonui. "Kei te tino kite mātou i te rongonui haere anō o ngā kākahu. I a mātou e tīmata ana ki te whakarite i ngā huihuinga pēnei i ngā marena, ngā hui whakawhiwhinga tohu, me ngā huihuinga me ngā hoa me te whānau, ka kite mātou i ngā kākahu e hokona ana puta noa i te poari mai i ngā huihuinga noa ki ngā huihuinga maha atu, ā, kua rongonui anō hoki ngā kākahu marena hou," te kī a Shin.
Mō ngā tarau tīni, i mea ia, "Ka noho tonu ngā tarau tīni hei mea nui i roto i te kākahu, engari e pai ana mātou ki ngā hua hou e kitea ana e mātou. Ko te tenimu piri, ko ngā tarau waewae tika me ngā tarau waewae whānui he mea rongonui i ngā tau 90. He tino pai ki a mātou." I mea ia kei Brooklyn tētahi waitohu motuhake, ko Still Here, e hanga ana i te tenimu iti, he mea peita ā-ringa, he mea whakapiripiri, ā, he pai te mahi. Hei tāpiri, i pai te mahi a Totême, "Kei te hoko atu hoki mātou i te tenimu mā." He maha ngā kākahu whatu me ngā kākahu pai a Totême, he mea o ia rā.
I te pātaitanga mō ngā kākahu hou ina hoki mai ngā kaihoko ki te tari, i mea ia: "Ki taku whakaaro he tino marino, he ngāwari ake te kākahu hou. He mea nui tonu te whakamarie, engari ki taku whakaaro ka huri ki ngā momo kākahu papai o ia rā. I kite mātou i te maha o ngā hūtu whatu huatau e pai ana ki a mātou." I mea ia i mua i te ngahuru, i whakarewahia e rātou he waitohu whatu motuhake, ko Lisa Yang, ko te kaupapa matua ko te whakataurite i ngā kākahu whatu. Kei Stockholm tēnei wāhi, ā, e whakamahi ana i te kākahu cashmere tūturu. "He tino huatau, ā, he pai te mahi, ā, ko tā mātou e tumanako ana ka haere tonu te mahi pai. He whakamarie engari he huatau."
I tāpiri atu ia i te mātakitaki i te āhua o te koti, engari he marino ake. I mea ia ko te whānuitanga o ngā kākahu me te tuitui te mea nui. "Ka hiahia ngā wāhine ki te kawe i ō rātou kākahu mai i te kāinga ki te tari ki te tūtaki ki ngā hoa; me whānuitanga, me te tika hoki mōna. Koinei te kākahu hou," tana kī.
I mea atu a Libby Page, Etita Hokohoko Matua o Net-a-porter: "I a mātou e tumanako ana ki te hoki ki te tari, kei te kite mātou i te nekehanga mai i ngā kākahu o ia rā ki ngā momo kākahu matatau ake. Mō ngā momo āhua, ka kite mātou i a Chloé, Zimmermann me Isabel. Kua piki ake ngā tānga me ngā tauira putiputi a Marant mō ngā kākahu wahine - koinei te hua kotahi tino pai mō ngā kākahu mahi o te puna, he pai hoki mō ngā rā me ngā pō mahana. Hei wāhanga o tā mātou huihuinga HS21, ka whakarewahia e mātou te 'Chic in' i te 21 o Hune. Ko te 'Heat' e whakanui ana i te rangi mahana me te whakakakahu mō te hoki ki te mahi."
I mea ia, mō ngā momo ahua o te tenimu, ka kite rātou i ngā momo kākahu whānui ake, me te pikinga ake o ngā momo poihau, inā koa i te tau kua hipa, nā te mea e rapu ana ā rātou kiritaki i te whakamarie i roto i ngā āhuatanga katoa o tana kākahu. I mea ia kua noho ngā tenimu tika tawhito hei momo kākahu maha-whakamahinga i roto i te kākahu, ā, kua urutau tā rātou waitohu ki tēnei āhuatanga mā te tāpiri i tēnei momo kākahu ki tana kohinga matua.
I te pātaitanga atu mēnā ko ngā hū hiko te whiringa tuatahi, i kī ia nā Net-a-porter i whakauru mai ngā tae mā hou me ngā āhua me ngā momo tawhito i te raumati, pērā i te mahi tahi a Loewe me Maison Margiela x Reebok.
Mō āna tumanakohanga mō te kākahu tari hou me te ahua hou mō ngā kākahu pāpori, i kī a Page, "Ko ngā tae kanapa e whakaoho ana i te harikoa te kaupapa matua o te kōanga. Ko tā mātou kohinga kāpene hou a Dries Van Noten motuhake e whakaatu ana i te noho koretake mā roto i ngā momo kāhua me ngā papanga wātea. , He āhua wātea me te ahuareka e tautoko ana i ngā āhua o ia rā. E kite ana hoki mātou i te piki haere tonu o te rongonui o te tenimu, inā koa ko tā mātou whakarewatanga tata nei o te mahi tahi a Valentino x Levi's. Ko tā mātou tumanako kia kite i ā mātou kiritaki e whakakakahu ana i ō rātou tari ki te tenimu hei hanga i te āhua wātea me te whakawhiti tino pai ki te pāti tina," tana kī.
Ko ngā taonga rongonui i runga i te Net-a-porter ko ngā taonga rongonui mai i te Toa Frankie, pērā i ngā koti whakakīkī me tā rātou hūtu hākinakina Net-a-porter motuhake; ngā hoahoa Jacquemus, pērā i ngā tihi poto me ngā remu poto, me ngā kākahu roa me ngā taipitopito paru, ngā kākahu putiputi me ngā kākahu wahine a Doen, me ngā mea nui o te kākahu o te kōanga me te raumati a Totême.
I mea a Marie Ivanoff-Smith, te kaiwhakahaere kakahu wahine o Nordstrom, kei te whakaaro ngā kaihoko o ēnei rā ki te hoki ki te mahi, ā, kua tīmata rātou ki te whai wāhi atu ki ngā papanga whatu me te tini o ngā papanga hāte. "He maha ngā whakamahinga. Ka taea e ia te whakakakahu, te whakakakahu rānei, ka taea e ia te mau i ēnei inaianei, ā, ka taea e ia te hoki katoa ki te tari i te ngahuru."
"I kite mātou i te hokinga mai o te mahi whatu, ehara i te mea hei hoki ki te mahi anake, engari hei haere ki waho i te pō, ā, ka tīmata ia ki te tūhura i tēnei." I mea ia he tino pai te mahi tahi a Nordstrom me Rag & Bone me Nili Lotan, ā, i mea ia "he papanga hāte tino pai tā rātou". I mea ia he mea tino nui te tā me te tae. "Kei te tino pai a Rio Farms. Kāore e taea e mātou te whai. He rawe tēnei," tana kī.
I mea ia he pai ake te aro o ngā kaihoko ki ngā āhua o te tinana, ā, ka nui ake te kiri e kitea ana. "Kei te puta ngā āhuatanga pāpori," tana kī. I whakahuahia e ia ngā tauira o ngā kaiwhakarato pēnei i a Ulla Johnson e mahi pai ana i te rohe. I tohu anō hoki ia ka whakarewahia e Alice + Olivia ētahi atu kākahu mō ngā huihuinga pāpori. He pai te mahi a Nordstrom me ngā waitohu pēnei i a Ted Baker, Ganni, Staud me Cinq à Sept. He pai te mahi a tēnei kaihokohoko mō ngā kākahu raumati.
I mea ia i kite ia i ngā kākahu katoa i oti pai i te tau kua hipa nā te mea he tino whakamarie. "Ināianei kua kite tātou i ngā pere me ngā whiowhio e hoki mai ana me ngā tānga ataahua. Me te harikoa me te kare ā-roto, haere atu i te whare," tana kī.