Ahakoa te tokomaha o ngā tohunga kākahu tāne kua pānui i te hui whakamutunga o tēnei hūtu i muri i te mate urutā, te āhua nei kua hiahia anō ngā tāne ki te hūtu takirua. Heoi anō, pērā i te maha o ngā mea, kei te hurihia te hūtu raumati ki te āhua wehe, hou, ā, i te mutunga ka ako ki te pai ki ngā kopa rinena, ā, ki te ruarua koe, ka taea hoki e koe te mau hu ngohengohe.
He pai ki ahau ngā hūtu, engari ka mau ahau i ēnei hūtu nā te mea ka hari ahau, ehara i te mea nā taku mahi ahau i akiaki ki te mahi pērā, nō reira he tino rerekē taku mau i ēnei hūtu. I ēnei rā, he uaua ki te whakaaro he maha rawa ngā mahi hei mau i tētahi hūtu: ngā taraiwa Mercedes S-Class me BMW 7 Series, ngā kaitiaki haumaru utu nui me ngā taura whiri i ō rātou kara, ngā rōia, ngā kaiuiui mahi, me ngā kaitōrangapū. Ina koa ko ngā kaitōrangapū i mau hūtu, ā, i kanikani i te mataku, e kitea ana i runga i te G7; ko te whāinga he whakatutuki i te āhua hoha me te iti o te ahuareka ataahua.
Engari mō tātou kāore e whakatuwhera ana i ngā rōpū rangatira, kāore hoki e whai wāhi atu ki ngā huihuinga kāwanatanga, he wāhi pai te hūtu raumati ki te whakangā me te tuku i a tātou kia hoki mārire ki te āhua āhua-ōkawa. Me whakaaro tātou ki ngā kākahu e mau ana tātou mō ngā pāti māra, ngā whakaaturanga opera i waho, ngā hui whakataetae, ngā whakataetae tēnehi, me ngā tina o waho (tohutohu āwhina: ki te mea he mea papai ake tā rātou e tuku ana i ngā pēkana me te pia motuhake, tēnā whakarērea ngā tarau poto tae-sima… whakaarohia, maka atu).
He āhua rerekē ngā tauhohenga a ngā tāne Peretānia ki te raumati hurihuri e mōhiotia ana, engari he ara anō kei waenganui i a Charybdis i roto i ngā tarau poto utanga me Scylla i roto i ngā hūtu raumati, arā, ko ngā tāne matua o Del Monte me Sandhill. Ko te angitu te tikanga kei te whiriwhiri tika i ngā papanga.
I ngā tau kua taha ake nei, kua whakakorea e te seersucker te whakapono pono ki ōna rārangi kikorangi, whero rānei, ā, kua puta mai i te pupa pērā i te pūrerehua karakara. "He nui ake ngā hūtu seersucker i hanga e au mō Wimbledon me Goodwood i tēnei tau i ērā o ngā tau 10 kua taha ake nei. Kei te tino ora anō, kei te āhua o te tae," te kī a Terry Haste o Kent & Haste, Savile Street, i tēnei wā. Kei te whakaatu te seersucker maha-tae i a Ken Kesey i roto i tōna ngākau. "He kikorangi, he kakariki, he kikorangi, he koura, he kikorangi, he parauri, me ngā rārangi whatu me ngā tapawhā."
Ko Cacciopoli tētahi o ngā kaiārahi o te seersucker auaha, he kaiwhakarato papanga i Naples, engari ehara i te mea ka homai e te seersucker he tae anake, engari ka whakakorea hoki ngā āwangawanga mō ngā miro: ko ngā miro te kaupapa; inaa, kua mirohia i mua, kua whakangāwarihia. Ae, he pai mō te whakamahi raumati.
I mea a Michael Hill o Drake, ko tēnei kare ā-roto ngāwari te take i rongonui ai te rinena i tēnei tau. "Ko tā mātou hūtu rinena te mea tino rongonui. Kāore he mea hou mō ngā tae toa: kahurangi, khaki, hazel, me te tupeka." Engari ko te rerekētanga ko tana arotahi ki tāna i kī ai i roto i te kākahu o te "hūtu kēmu", i wehewehea e ia mai i te tuitui ōkawa.
"Ko te mea nui ko te awhi i te kopa. Kāore koe e hiahia kia tino nui rawa te utu, ā, mā te mea ka taea e koe te maka ki roto i te mīhini horoi ka āwhina i te whakangāwari ake i te hūtu. E hiahia ana ngā tāne ki te kākahu i tētahi āhua rerekē, me te tapahi me te hāte pōro, te T-hāte rānei hei pakaru i ngā koti me ngā tarau. I tēnei raumati, ka kite tātou i te maha atu o ngā momo kākahu teitei-iti e whakakotahi ana i ngā kākahu ōkawa me ngā kākahu ōkawa, ngā pōtae peisiporo tawhito ataahua me ngā papa ngohengohe kānawehi me ngā hūtu. Kia tika, he tino uaua."
Ko tētahi o ngā take mō te whakaaroaro anō i te hūtu, kāore a Drake e hoko i te hūtu kēmu hei hūtu, engari hei wāhanga ka taea te mau hei hūtu. Ko tēnei hinengaro āhua rerekē, arā, ko te hoko i tētahi kākahu raumati noa hei wāhanga e rua e ōrite ana, he wāhi anō hoki tōna i roto i a Connolly. Ka whakaratohia he putanga ātete-roimata, e whakaahuatia ana e te rangatira o Connolly, a Isabel Ettedgui, he "whakahirahira hangarau".
"Ka hokona atu e mātou hei koti me ngā tarau hope rapa," te kī a Ettedgui. "E pai ana ki ngā tāne tēnei nā te mea e whakaaro ana rātou ka taea te hoko motuhake, ahakoa kāore. Kua hokona atu e mātou ki te hunga 23-tau te pakeke me te 73-tau te pakeke e pai ana ki ngā tae noa, ā, kāore e mau tōkena."
He rite tonu te kōrero a Zegna. I whakaahua te kaiwhakahaere auaha a Alessandro Sartori i ngā hūtu ōkawa tawhito he mea rongonui ki ngā kiritaki ritenga me ngā kiritaki i hangaia kia rite ki te hiahia o te tangata, "Ka mau hūtu rātou mō ō rātou ake hiahia." He take anō te kākahu kua rite. "Ka hoko rātou i ngā taonga takitahi mai i tētahi kaihoahoa kākahu matua, ka whiriwhiri i tētahi tihi, i tētahi mahi rānei, ā, ka hanga i tētahi hūtu e ōrite ana ki te tihi me te raro," tana kī. He mea hanga te papanga ki te hiraka miro me te kāhimere, ā, ko te ranunga o te rinena, te miro me te rinena e whakamahi ana i ngā tae pastel hou.
I tino tahuri atu hoki te kaituitui rongonui o Neapolitan, a Rubinacci, ki te āhua huatau, ngāwari hoki. "Ko te Safari Park te toa i tēnei raumati nā te mea he whakamarie, he ngāwari hoki," te kī a Mariano Rubinacci. "He mea whakangāwari nā te mea he rite ki te hāte kāore he arai, engari ka mau hei koti, kia taea ai te noho ōkawa, ā, he whai hua ngā pōke katoa."
Mō ngā kākahu tawhito, e hae ana ahau ki te koti miro Madras i hokona e taku tama pōtiki i te mākete Portobello: he kākahu he mana Proust e whakamahara ana i te ahua o Amerika i te wā o Eisenhower. Ko te kaha ake o te haki, ko te pai ake... Engari me ngā tarau noa.
Kua kite a Huntsman o te pā nui o Savile Street i tētahi ia o te wehewehe. I kī te Kaiwhakahaere Auaha a Campbell Carey: "I mua i te Covid, he nui ake te hiahia o te tangata ki te mau i ngā koti hūtu me ngā tarau ataahua ki ngā hui." "I tēnei raumati, kāore e taea e mātou te hoko i ngā koti hūtu whatu tuwhera. Ko te tikanga o te hanganga whatu ka taea te miro. Kei roto i ngā momo atarangi me ngā tae kia tino whai hua ai ki tō ranunga, ā, ka taea e koe te tango atu hei tuku i te hau ki roto, ki waho hoki." I tukuna anō e Carey te mea i huaina e ia ko ngā "tapahanga mutunga wiki." Kei roto tonu i te āhua o Huntsman; he pūrua ringaringa teitei, he pātene, me te hope, "engari he ngawari te raina pakihiwi, i whakangawarihia e mātou te hanganga kānawehi, ā, he kotahi te hanganga o mua, hei whakakapi i te huruhuru hōiho [mārō]."
Mō ngā hāte, ko te whakaaro kia rite koe ki te mea kei te mau koe i tētahi hāte kaki tuwhera, kaua e hoki noa mai i tētahi tangihanga mafia, ka wetewete wawe i tō tai, ka wetewete i ngā pātene o tō hāte. Ko taku whakaaro kia mau i tētahi hāte rinena pai, he pātene-iho pērā i a Bel of Barcelona. Kāore he here kaki me te pātene o runga i tōna hanganga, engari he ātaahua te āhua o roto, ā, ka hurihuri tonu te kara nā ngā pātene i te pito o te kara.
Mai i reira, ka taea e koe te whiriwhiri i ngā hāte hararei tuwhera-kaki, ko te kara te momo hāte me te kara Lido i kauwhautia e te kaihoahoa kākahu tāne a Scott Fraser Simpson. Mena he tangata hiahia koe ki te mahi auaha, tirohia te pūkete Instagram a Wei Koh, te kaiwhakaū o Rake Tailored. I noho rāhui ia ki Singapore mō tētahi wā, i taurite i ana hūtu maha ki ngā hāte Hawai'i, ā, i kitea ngā hua.
Ka hoki mai anō te hakari ki te aroaro o te hunga whaikōrero me ngā kaupapa rerekē i Kenwood House (me te ipurangi) i te 4 o Hepetema. Mā te whakauru i ēnei mea katoa ka ara ake anō te wairua me te āheinga ki te whakaaro anō i te ao i muri i te mate urutā. Hei tono tikiti, tirohia mai ki konei
Ahakoa i roto i te āhuarangi tuitui ngāwari o ēnei rā, kei reira tonu ngā wā ka kiia he mea koretake ngā hāte Hawai'i, ā, ka kitea pea e te tangata he pai ake (he iti ake rānei te kitea) te mau tai; mō tēnei, ko ngā tai hiraka whatu te whiringa tino pai. He hoa haere pai rawa atu, nā te mea ina hurihia hei pōro, ka kuhua ki te kokonga o te peke, e kore e miro, e kore hoki e hē. Ahakoa he ahua rerekē, he āhua tino ngāwari - ki te kore koe e whakapono mai, rapua te pikitia me te tai whatu a David Hockney i runga i a Google, ka taea e ia te whakamahi me ngā tarau kua peitahia me ngā ringaringa kua pōkaihia.
He mea whakamere te kite mēnā ka taea e ngā tai whatu te ora i ngā matapae a Carey o Huntsman. He roa tonu te ara kei mua i tēnei wehenga. Mena ko te koti mata tere o tēnei raumati, ka tahuri ia ki tētahi atu wāhanga o te hūtu takirua, ā, i whakaaweawehia e te whānuitanga o ngā kōwhiringa seersucker, kei te mahi ia i te mea e kiia nei e ia ko te raupapa "poto poto huatau". "Kei te tau e tū mai nei. "Āe," tana kī, "engari kaua e pohehe, kua tae mai te koti me ngā poto poto."
Wā tuku: Hepetema-13-2021