Ko te polyester me te nairona ngā rauemi e whakamahia whānuitia ana i roto i te umanga ahua, inā koa i roto i te ao o ngā kākahu hākinakina. Heoi, ko ēnei tetahi o ngā mea kino rawa atu e pā ana ki ngā utu taiao. Ka taea e te hangarau tāpiri te whakaoti i tēnei raruraru?
Nā Aaron Sanandres, te kaiwhakaū me te Tumu Whakarae o te kamupene hāte Untuckit, i whakatū te waitohu Definite Articles. I whakarewahia i te marama kua taha ake nei me te kaupapa: ki te waihanga i tētahi kohinga kākahu hākinakina pumau ake, mai i ngā tōkena. Ko te papanga o ngā tōkena he 51% nairona pumau, 23% miro BCI, 23% polyester whakahou pumau me te 3% spandex. He mea hanga ki ngā tāpiringa kirikiri Ciclo, e hoatu ana ki a rātou ngā āhuatanga ahurei: he rite tonu te tere o te pirau ki te taiao. He rite tonu ngā rauemi i roto i te wai moana, i ngā tipu maimoatanga wai para me ngā whenua ururua, me ngā muka pēnei i te huruhuru hipi.
I te wā o te mate urutā, i kite te kaiwhakaū kei te mau ia i ngā tōkena hākinakina i te tere whakamataku. I runga i tana wheako ki Untuckit, i whakanuia e te kamupene ngā tau tekau i te mākete i te marama kua hipa, ā, i whakawhitia a Sanandres ki tētahi atu waitohu me te oranga tonutanga hei kaupapa matua. "Ki te whakaarohia te whārite oranga tonutanga, ko te tapuwae waro tētahi wāhanga o taua mea, engari ko te parahanga taiao tētahi atu wāhanga," tana kī. "I ngā wā o mua, he tino kino ngā kākahu mahi mō te taiao nā te turuturu o ngā kirihou me ngā kirihou moroiti ki roto i te wai i te wā e horoi ana i ngā kākahu. Heoi anō, i te wā roa, ka roa pea ngā rau tau ka pirau te polyester me te nairona."
Ko tētahi o ngā take matua e kore ai e taea e ngā kirihou te pirau i te tere rite ki ngā muka taiao, nā te mea kāore i te rite te hanganga ngota tuwhera. Heoi, me ngā tāpiringa Ciclo, e miriona ngā ira pirau ka puta i roto i te hanganga kirihou. Ka taea e ngā moroiti e noho taiao ana i raro i ngā tikanga o runga ake nei te pirau i ngā muka, pērā i ngā muka taiao. E ai ki tana paetukutuku, kua tono a Definite Articles mō te tiwhikete B Corp. Ko tana whāinga he pupuri i te hanga ā-rohe mā te mekameka tuku kei Amerika Te Raki anake me te whakamahi i ngā ture whanonga a ngā kaiwhakarato.
Kua tekau tau a Andrea Ferris, te kaiwhakaū o te kamupene tāpiri kirihou Ciclo, e mahi ana i tēnei hangarau. "Ka kukumea mai ngā moroiti e noho noa ana i roto i te taiao e noho ana te kirihou hei parahanga matua nā te mea he puna kai. Ka taea e rātou te hanga i ngā mea mahi ki runga i te rauemi, ā, ka tino pirau te rauemi. Ina kī ahau he pirau, ko te tikanga he pirau koiora; ka taea e rātou te wawahi i te hanganga ngota o te polyester, kātahi ka nakunaku i ngā ngota, ā, ka tino pirau te rauemi."
Ko ngā muka hangai tētahi o ngā raruraru nui rawa atu e ngana ana te umanga ki te whakaoti i ōna pānga ki te taiao. E ai ki tētahi pūrongo mai i te Sustainable Solutions Accelerator Changing Markets i te marama o Hūrae 2021, kei te uaua haere ngā waitohu ahua ki te whakakore i tō rātou whakawhirinaki ki ngā muka hangai. E tirotirohia ana e te pūrongo ngā momo waitohu rerekē, mai i a Gucci ki ngā waitohu papai pērā i a Zalando me Forever 21. Mō ngā kākahu hākinakina, ko te nuinga o ngā waitohu hākinakina i tātarihia i roto i te pūrongo—tae atu ki a Adidas, ASICS, Nike, me Reebok—i kōrero ko te nuinga o ā rātou kohinga he mea hangai ki ngā mea hangai. I kī te pūrongo "kāore rātou i tohu kei te whakamahere rātou ki te whakaiti i tēnei āhuatanga." Heoi, ko te whānui o te whakamahinga o te whanaketanga rauemi me te tuwhera ki te auahatanga i te wā o te mate urutā ka akiaki pea i te mākete kākahu hākinakina ki te haumi ki ngā otinga mō ōna raruraru muka hangai.
Kua mahi tahi a Ciclo me ngā waitohu tae atu ki a Cone Denim, he waitohu tenimu tuku iho, ā, kei te kaha ia ki te whakawhānui ake i te mākete kakahu. Heoi, ahakoa kei te whakaratohia ngā whakamātautau pūtaiao i runga i tana paetukutuku, he puhoi te ahunga whakamua. "I whakarewahia e mātou a Ciclo mō te umanga kakahu i te raumati o te tau 2017," te kī a Ferris. "Ki te whakaarohia e koe he maha ngā tau e hiahiatia ana hei whakatinana i roto i te mekameka tuku ahakoa he hangarau kua tino tirotirohia, ehara i te mea miharo he roa te wā. Ahakoa he hangarau e mōhiotia ana, e makona ana te katoa, engari he maha ngā tau ka hiahiatia hei uru atu ki te mekameka tuku." Heoi anō, ka taea anake te kawemai i ngā tāpiringa i te tīmatanga o te mekameka tuku, he uaua ki te whakamahi i runga i te tauine nui.
Heoi, kua puta ngā ahunga whakamua mā roto i ngā kohinga waitohu tae atu ki a Definite Articles. Mō tāna wāhanga, ka whakawhānui ake a Definite Articles i ana hua kākahu mahi ā-tau i te tau e haere ake nei. I roto i tētahi pūrongo a Synthetics Anonymous, i kī anō te waitohu kākahu hākinakina Puma e mōhio ana ia ko ngā rauemi hangai te haurua o ana rauemi papanga katoa. Kei te mahi ia ki te whakaiti haere i te ōwehenga o te polyester e whakamahia ana e ia, e whakaatu ana ka taea e ngā kākahu hākinakina te whakaiti i tōna whakawhirinaki ki ngā rauemi hangai. Tērā pea he tohu tēnei i tētahi panonitanga i roto i te umanga.
Wā tuku: Hakihea-30-2021