Chilimwe chino ndi nthawi yophukira, akazi asanabwerere ku ofesi, akuoneka kuti akugula zovala ndikupita kukachezanso. Madiresi omasuka, ma tops okongola, achikazi ndi ma sweta, ma jinzi otseguka ndi ma jinzi owongoka, ndi ma shorts akhala akugulitsidwa kwambiri m'masitolo ogulitsa.
Ngakhale makampani ambiri amauza antchito awo kuti ayambe kubwerera, ogulitsa malonda amanena kuti kugula zovala zantchito si chinthu chofunika kwambiri kwa makasitomala.
M'malo mwake, awona kuwonjezeka kwa kugula zovala zoti azivala nthawi yomweyo - kupita ku maphwando, zikondwerero, malo odyera nyama kumbuyo kwa nyumba, malo odyera akunja, chakudya chamadzulo ndi abwenzi, komanso tchuthi. Zithunzi zowala ndi mitundu ndizofunikira kuti ogula azisangalala.
Komabe, zovala zawo zogwirira ntchito zidzasinthidwa posachedwa, ndipo ogulitsa alosera zina zokhudza mawonekedwe a yunifolomu yatsopano yaofesi nthawi yophukira.
WWD idafunsana ndi ogulitsa akuluakulu kuti adziwe za malonda m'madera amakono komanso malingaliro awo pa njira yatsopano yovaliranso zinthu zomwe zimafanana ndi za dziko lapansi.
"Ponena za bizinesi yathu, sitinamuone akugula zinthu. Anayang'ana kwambiri zovala zake zachindunji, zovala zake zachilimwe. Sitikuona kufunika kwa zovala zachikhalidwe zogwirira ntchito kukuchulukirachulukira," Divya Mathur, yemwe ndi mkulu wa malonda ku Intermix, anati kampaniyo idagulitsidwa ndi Gap Inc. ku kampani yachinsinsi ya Altamont Capital Partners mwezi uno.
Iye anafotokoza kuti kuyambira mliri wa Marichi 2020, makasitomala sanagule chilichonse masika apitawa. "Kwa zaka pafupifupi ziwiri sanasinthe zovala zake za nyengo. [Tsopano] wakhala akuyang'ana kwambiri masika," adatero Mathur.
“Akufuna diresi losavuta lachilimwe. Desi losavuta la poplin lomwe angavale ndi nsapato za nsapato. Akufunanso zovala za tchuthi,” adatero. Mathur adanenanso kuti mitundu monga Staud, Veronica Beard, Jonathan Simkhai ndi Zimmermann ndi ena mwa mitundu yayikulu yomwe ikugulitsidwa pakadali pano.
“Izi si zomwe akufuna kugula tsopano. Iye anati, ‘Sindikusangalala kugula zomwe ndili nazo kale,’” iye anatero. Mathur anati kuonda nthawi zonse n’kofunika kwa Intermix. “Ponena za zomwe zikuchitika pakali pano, akufunafuna zovala zatsopano. Kwa ife, iyi ndi jeans yokhala ndi m’chiuno chapamwamba yomwe imadutsa m’miyendo, ndipo denim yomasuka pang’ono ya m’ma 90. Tili ku Re/done Brands monga AGoldE ndi AGoldE akuchita bwino. Denim yodutsa kutsogolo ya AGoldE yakhala ikugulitsidwa kwambiri chifukwa cha zinthu zake zatsopano zosangalatsa. Ma jeans opyapyala a Re/done akuyaka moto. Kuphatikiza apo, Moussy Vintage’s wash The effect ndi yabwino kwambiri, ndipo ili ndi mapangidwe osangalatsa owononga,” iye anatero.
Ma shorts ndi gulu lina lodziwika bwino. Intermix inayamba kugulitsa ma shorts a denim mu February ndipo yagulitsa mazana ambiri. "Nthawi zambiri timawona ma shorts a denim akukwera m'chigawo chakumwera. Tinayamba kuwona ma shorts awa pakati pa March, koma anayamba mu February," adatero Mather. Iye anati zonsezi ndi zakuti azikwanira bwino ndipo kusoka "ndi kotentha kwambiri".
"Koma mtundu wawo womasuka ndi wautali pang'ono. Umamveka ngati wosweka komanso wodulidwa. Ndi woyera, wamtali, ndipo chiuno chili ngati thumba la pepala," adatero.
Ponena za zovala zawo zogwirira ntchito, iye anati makasitomala ake nthawi zambiri amakhala kutali kapena osakanikirana nthawi yachilimwe. "Akukonzekera kuyambiranso moyo wawo wonse mliri usanachitike nthawi ya autumn." Iye adawona anthu ambiri akuyenda mu zovala zoluka ndi malaya oluka.
“Yunifolomu yake yamakono ndi jinzi yabwino kwambiri komanso shati yokongola kapena juzi yokongola.” Zina mwa ma tops omwe amagulitsa ndi ma tops a akazi ochokera ku Ulla Johnson ndi Sea New York. “Ma brand awa ndi ma tops okongola osindikizidwa, kaya ndi osindikizidwa kapena opangidwa ndi nsalu yoluka,” adatero.
Akavala mathalauza a majini, makasitomala ake amakonda njira zosangalatsa zochapira zovala komanso masitaelo oyenera, m'malo monena kuti “Ndikufuna mathalauza oyera.” Mtundu wa denim womwe amakonda kwambiri ndi mathalauza a miyendo yowongoka okhala ndi chiuno chachitali.
Mathur anati akugulitsabe nsapato zatsopano komanso zamakono. "Tikuonadi kuwonjezeka kwakukulu kwa bizinesi ya nsapato," adatero.
"Bizinesi yathu ndi yabwino kwambiri. Iyi ndi yankho labwino ku 2019. Tiyambanso kukulitsa bizinesi yathu. Tikupereka bizinesi yabwino kwambiri yamtengo wapatali kuposa mu 2019," adatero.
Iye adawonanso zovala zogulitsidwa kwambiri pamwambo. Makasitomala awo sakufuna zovala za mpira. Akupita ku maukwati, maphwando a kubadwa, miyambo yokhwima komanso miyambo yomaliza maphunziro. Akufuna zinthu zapamwamba kwambiri kuposa zovala wamba kuti akhale mlendo paukwatiwo. Intermix adawona kufunika kwa Zimmermann. "Tikudzitamandira ndi chilichonse chomwe tidabweretsa kuchokera ku mtundu umenewo," adatero Mather.
“Anthu ali ndi zochita chilimwe chino, koma alibe zovala zoti avale. Kuchuluka kwa kuchira kuli mofulumira kuposa momwe tinkayembekezera,” adatero. Pamene Intermix idagula nyengo ino mu Seputembala, adaganiza kuti zitenga nthawi yayitali kuti ibwererenso. Inayamba kubwerera mu Marichi ndi Epulo. “Tinali ndi mantha pang'ono kumeneko, koma tatha kuthamangitsa malondawo,” adatero.
Ponseponse, zovala zapamwamba kwambiri zimachititsa 50% ya bizinesi yake. "Bizinesi yathu yeniyeni ya 'zochitika' imachititsa 5% mpaka 8% ya bizinesi yathu," adatero.
Iye anawonjezera kuti akazi omwe ali patchuthi, amagula zovala za Agua Bendita zotchedwa LoveShackFancy ndi Agua, zovala zomalizazo ndi zovala zenizeni zatchuthi.
Roopal Patel, wachiwiri kwa purezidenti wamkulu komanso mkulu wa mafashoni ku Saks Fifth Avenue, anati: “Tsopano, akazi akugula zinthu. Azimayi savala zovala zobwerera ku ofesi, koma zoti agwiritse ntchito pa moyo wawo wonse. Amapita kukagula zovala ku malo odyera, kapena kudya chakudya cham'mawa kapena chakudya chamasana, kapena kukhala m'chipinda chodyera chakunja kukadya chakudya chamadzulo.” Anati akugula “madiresi okongola, omasuka, omasuka, amoyo, komanso okongola omwe angayendeyende ndikukonza malingaliro awo.” Makampani otchuka m'munda wamakono ndi awa: Zimmermann ndi Tove. , Jonathan Simkhai ndi ALC.
Ponena za ma jeans, Patel nthawi zonse ankakhulupirira kuti ma jeans opapatiza ali ngati T-sheti yoyera. "Ngati pali chilichonse, akupanga zovala zake za denim. Akuyang'ana chiuno chachitali, ma bell bottoms a m'ma 70, miyendo yowongoka, zovala zosiyanasiyana, kudula kwa chibwenzi. Kaya ndi denim yoyera kapena denim yakuda, kapena bondo Mabowo odulidwa, ndi ma jekete ofanana ndi ma jeans ndi zovala zina zofanana," adatero.
Akuganiza kuti denim yakhala gawo la chakudya chake chofunikira, kaya akupita kunja usiku kapena kuyimba foni masiku ano. Panthawi ya COVID-19, akazi amavala denim, majuzi okongola ndi nsapato zopukutidwa.
"Ndikuganiza kuti akazi adzalemekeza zovala za denim, koma kwenikweni ndikuganiza kuti akazi adzagwiritsa ntchito mwayi uwu kuvala bwino. Ngati amavala jinzi tsiku lililonse, palibe amene amafuna kuvala jinzi. Ofesi imatipatsa mwayi wovala zovala zathu zabwino kwambiri, nsapato zathu zazitali kwambiri komanso nsapato zomwe timakonda komanso kuvala bwino," adatero Patel.
Iye anati pamene nyengo ikusintha, makasitomala safuna kuvala majekete. “Akufuna kuoneka wokongola, akufuna kusangalala. Timagulitsa mitundu yosangalatsa, timagulitsa nsapato zonyezimira. Tikugulitsa nyumba zosangalatsa,” iye anatero. “Akazi okonda mafashoni amagwiritsa ntchito izi ngati chikondwerero chosonyeza kalembedwe kawo. Ndiko kuti amve bwino,” iye anatero.
Woyang'anira wa Women's wokonzeka kuvala zovala ku Bloomingdale, Arielle Siboni, anati: “Tsopano, tikuwona makasitomala akuyankha zinthu zambiri za 'gulani tsopano, valani tsopano',” kuphatikizapo zovala zachilimwe ndi za tchuthi. “Kwa ife, izi zikutanthauza masiketi ambiri aatali, ma shorts a denim ndi madiresi a poplin. Kusambira ndi kubisa zovala ndi zamphamvu kwambiri kwa ife.”
“Ponena za madiresi, mitundu yambiri ya bohemian, crochet ndi poplin, ndi midi yosindikizidwa imagwira ntchito bwino kwa ife,” iye anatero. Madiresi a ALC, Bash, Maje ndi Sandro amagulitsidwa bwino kwambiri. Iye anati kasitomala uyu nthawi zonse amamusowa chifukwa amavala mathalauza ambiri ovala thukuta komanso zovala zabwino kwambiri akakhala kunyumba. “Tsopano ali ndi chifukwa chogulira,” anawonjezera.
Gulu lina lamphamvu ndi ma shorts. "Ma shorts a denim ndi abwino kwambiri, makamaka ochokera ku AGoldE," adatero. Iye anati: "Anthu amafuna kukhala omasuka, ndipo anthu ambiri akugwirabe ntchito kunyumba komanso pa Zoom. Simungaone zomwe zili pansi." Iye anati mitundu yonse ya ma shorts ikugulitsidwa; ena ali ndi mipata yayitali mkati, ena ndi ma shorts.
Ponena za zovala zobwerera ku ofesi, Siboni anati adawona kuchuluka kwa majekete a suti "kuwonjezeka, zomwe ndizosangalatsa kwambiri." Iye adati anthu akuyamba kubwerera ku ofesi, koma akuyembekezera kuti nthawi yophukira ifike. Zogulitsa za Bloomingdale zophukira zidzafika kumayambiriro kwa Ogasiti.
Ma jeans owonda akadali kugulitsidwa, zomwe ndi gawo lalikulu la bizinesi yawo. Anaona ma jeans akusanduka mathalauza owongoka, zomwe zinayamba kuchitika isanafike chaka cha 2020. Ma jeans a amayi ndi mitundu ina yakale akugulitsidwa. "TikTok imalimbikitsa kusinthaku kukhala kalembedwe komasuka," adatero. Anaona kuti ma jeans a Rag & Bone a Miramar anali osindikizidwa pazenera ndipo amawoneka ngati ma jeans, koma amamveka ngati mathalauza amasewera.
Mitundu ya denim yomwe idachita bwino ndi monga Mother, AGoldE ndi AG. Paige Mayslie wakhala akugulitsa mathalauza othamanga amitundu yosiyanasiyana.
Pamwamba, chifukwa pansi pake ndi pabwino kwambiri, malaya a T-shirt akhala olimba nthawi zonse. Kuphatikiza apo, malaya a bohemian otayirira, malaya aku prairie, ndi malaya okhala ndi zingwe zokongoletsedwa ndi eyelets nawonso ndi otchuka kwambiri.
Siboni anati amagulitsanso zovala zambiri zosangalatsa komanso zowala zamadzulo, madiresi oyera a akwatibwi ndi zovala zokongola zamadzulo pa prom. Pa maukwati achilimwe, madiresi ena ochokera ku Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua ndi Nookie ndi oyenera kwambiri alendo. Anati LoveShackFancy amavala zovala zolemera, "zodabwitsa kwambiri." Alinso ndi madiresi ambiri a tchuthi cha bohemian ndi madiresi omwe angavalidwe pa nthawi ya phwando la ukwati.
Siboni adati bizinesi yolembetsa ya wogulitsayo ndi yolimba kwambiri, zomwe zikusonyeza kuti awiriwa akusintha masiku awo aukwati ndipo pakufunika zovala za alendo ndi za mkwatibwi.
Yumi Shin, yemwe ndi mkulu wa bizinesi ku Bergdorf Goodman, anati chaka chathachi, makasitomala awo akhala osinthasintha, pogula zinthu zapadera zomwe zimasiyana ndi mafoni a Zoom komanso ndalama zambiri zomwe amawononga.
"Pamene tikubwerera ku moyo wabwinobwino, tikumva kuti tili ndi chiyembekezo. Kugula zinthu ndi chinthu chatsopano. Sikuti kungobwerera ku ofesi kokha, komanso kukumananso ndi abale ndi abwenzi omwe akuyembekezera kwa nthawi yayitali omwe akuganiza za mapulani oyendera. Ziyenera kukhala zabwino," adatero Shen.
Posachedwapa, awona chidwi ndi zovala zachikondi, kuphatikizapo malaya athunthu kapena zinthu zopyapyala. Iye anati Ulla Johnson adachita bwino kwambiri. "Ndi kampani yabwino kwambiri ndipo amalankhula ndi makasitomala osiyanasiyana," adatero Shin, ndikuwonjezera kuti zinthu zonse za kampaniyi zikugulitsidwa bwino. "Ndiyenera kunena kuti iye [Johnson] ndi umboni wa mliriwu. Timagulitsa masiketi aatali, masiketi apakatikati, ndipo tikuyamba kuwona masiketi afupiafupi. Amatchuka chifukwa cha zosindikiza zake, ndipo timagulitsanso masiketi ake amitundu yolimba. Mathalauza, jumpsuit ya buluu wabuluu ikuchita bwino kwa ife."
Madiresi a nthawi zina ndi gulu lina lodziwika bwino. "Tikuwona madiresi akutchukanso. Pamene makasitomala athu akuyamba kukonzekera zochitika monga maukwati, miyambo yomaliza maphunziro, ndi kukumananso ndi abwenzi ndi abale, tikuwona madiresi akugulitsidwa m'njira zosiyanasiyana kuyambira pazochitika wamba mpaka zambiri, ndipo ngakhale madiresi a ukwati nawonso atchukanso," adatero Shin.
Ponena za mathalauza ang'onoang'ono, iye anati, "Mathalauza ang'onoang'ono nthawi zonse amakhala ofunikira kwambiri mu zovala, koma timakonda zinthu zatsopano zomwe timaona. Mathalauza a denim okwana, mathalauza owongoka ndi mathalauza a miyendo yayitali akhala otchuka m'zaka za m'ma 90. Ife timawakonda kwambiri." Iye anati mtundu wapadera, Still Here, uli ku Brooklyn, womwe umapanga mathalauza ang'onoang'ono a denim, opakidwa ndi manja ndi zigamba, ndipo umagwira ntchito yabwino. Kuphatikiza apo, Totême adachita bwino kwambiri, "Tikugulitsanso mathalauza oyera." Totême ili ndi zovala zambiri zokongola komanso madiresi, zomwe zimakhala zosavuta.
Atafunsidwa za mayunifolomu atsopano ogula akabwerera ku ofesi, iye anati: “Ndikuganiza kuti kavalidwe katsopano kadzakhala komasuka komanso kosinthasintha. Chitonthozo chikadali chofunikira, koma ndikuganiza kuti chidzasintha kukhala zovala zapamwamba za tsiku ndi tsiku. Ndinawona masuti ambiri oluka okongola omwe timakonda.” Iye anati asanafike nthawi yophukira, adayambitsa kampani yoluka yokha, Lisa Yang, yomwe imayang'ana kwambiri kufananiza zovala zoluka. Ili ku Stockholm ndipo imagwiritsa ntchito cashmere yachilengedwe. “Ndi yokongola kwambiri ndipo imagwira ntchito bwino, ndipo tikukhulupirira kuti ipitiliza kugwira ntchito bwino. Yomasuka koma yokongola.”
Iye anawonjezera kuti anali kuyang'ana momwe jekete likuyendera, koma anali womasuka kwambiri. Anati kusinthasintha ndi kusoka zovala ndizofunika kwambiri. "Akazi adzafuna kutenga zovala zawo kuchokera kunyumba kupita nazo ku ofesi kuti akakumane ndi anzawo; ziyenera kukhala zosinthasintha komanso zoyenera kwa iye. Iyi idzakhala njira yatsopano yovalira," adatero.
Libby Page, Mkonzi Wamkulu wa Zamalonda wa Net-a-porter, anati: “Pamene makasitomala athu akuyembekezera kubwerera ku ofesi, tikuwona kusintha kuchoka pa zovala wamba kupita ku mafashoni apamwamba. Ponena za mafashoni, tikuona kuchokera kwa Chloé, Zimmermann ndi Isabel. Zosindikiza za Marant ndi mapangidwe a maluwa a madiresi a akazi zawonjezeka - ichi ndi chinthu chabwino kwambiri pa zovala zantchito za masika, zomwe zimayeneranso masana ndi usiku wofunda. Monga gawo la chochitika chathu cha HS21, tidzayambitsa 'Chic in' pa June 21 The Heat' ikugogomezera nyengo yofunda ndi zovala zobwerera kuntchito.”
Iye anati pankhani ya mafashoni a denim, amaona kuti mafashoni a denim ndi omasuka, akuluakulu komanso akuwonjezeka, makamaka chaka chatha, chifukwa makasitomala awo amafuna chitonthozo pazinthu zonse za zovala zake. Iye anati ma jeans akale owongoka akhala kalembedwe kosiyanasiyana mu zovala, ndipo mtundu wawo wasintha kuti ugwirizane ndi izi powonjezera kalembedwe kameneka kuzinthu zake zazikulu.
Atafunsidwa ngati nsapato za nsapato ndizosankha choyamba, iye anati Net-a-porter inayambitsa mitundu yoyera yatsopano ndi mawonekedwe akale ndi masitayelo m'chilimwe, monga Loewe ndi Maison Margiela mgwirizano ndi Reebok.
Ponena za ziyembekezo zake za yunifolomu yatsopano yaofesi ndi mafashoni atsopano a zovala za anthu, Page anati, "Mitundu yowala yomwe imabweretsa chisangalalo idzakhala nkhani yaikulu ya masika. Zovala zathu zaposachedwa za Dries Van Noten zapadera zimaphatikizapo kusalowerera ndale kudzera mu masitayelo ndi nsalu zomasuka. , Zokongola zomasuka komanso zosangalatsa zomwe zimakwaniritsa mawonekedwe aliwonse a tsiku ndi tsiku. Tikuwonanso kutchuka kwa denim kukupitirira kukwera, makamaka kuyambitsa kwathu kwaposachedwa kwa mgwirizano wa Valentino x Levi. Tikukhulupirira kuwona makasitomala athu akuveka ofesi yawo. Ikani ndi denim kuti ipange mawonekedwe omasuka komanso kusintha kwabwino kupita ku phwando la chakudya chamadzulo," adatero.
Zinthu zodziwika bwino pa Net-a-porter zikuphatikizapo zinthu zodziwika bwino kuchokera ku Frankie Shop, monga majekete opangidwa ndi nsalu zokulungidwa ndi suti yawo yapadera yamasewera ya Net-a-porter; mapangidwe a Jacquemus, monga ma crop tops ndi masiketi, ndi madiresi aatali okhala ndi zinthu zosasangalatsa, madiresi a maluwa ndi achikazi a Doen, ndi zinthu zofunika kwambiri pa zovala za Totême za masika ndi chilimwe.
Marie Ivanoff-Smith, mkulu wa mafashoni azimayi ku Nordstrom, anati makasitomala amakono akuganiza zobwerera kuntchito ndipo akuyamba kutenga nawo mbali mu nsalu zolukidwa ndi nsalu zambiri za malaya. “Ndizosiyanasiyana. Akhoza kuvala bwino kapena kuvala bwino, akhoza kuvala tsopano, ndipo akhoza kubwerera ku ofesi kwathunthu nthawi yophukira.”
“Tinaona kubwerera kwa nsalu yoluka, osati kungobwerera kuntchito, komanso kupita kunja usiku, ndipo anayamba kufufuza izi.” Anati Nordstrom anagwira ntchito bwino kwambiri ndi Rag & Bone ndi Nili Lotan, ndipo anati “ali ndi nsalu ya malaya yabwino kwambiri”. Anati kusindikiza ndi utoto n’kofunika kwambiri. “Rio Farms ikuwononga zinthu. Sitingathe kupitiriza. Izi n’zodabwitsa,” anatero.
Iye anati makasitomala amakonda kwambiri mawonekedwe a thupi ndipo amatha kuwonetsa khungu kwambiri. "Zinthu zokhudzana ndi anthu zikuchitika," adatero. Anatchula zitsanzo za ogulitsa monga Ulla Johnson akuchita bwino m'derali. Ananenanso kuti Alice + Olivia adzayambitsa madiresi ambiri oti azigwiritsidwa ntchito pamisonkhano. Nordstrom yachita bwino ndi makampani monga Ted Baker, Ganni, Staud ndi Cinq à Sept. Wogulitsa uyu amachita bwino kwambiri madiresi achilimwe.
Iye anati adawona madiresi ofanana bwino chaka chatha chifukwa amakhala omasuka kwambiri. "Tsopano tikuona mabelu ndi ma whistle akubwerera ndi zojambula zokongola. Ndi chisangalalo ndi kukhudzidwa mtima, tulukani m'nyumba," adatero.
Nthawi yotumizira: Julayi-08-2021