M'chilimwe ndi m'dzinja, amayi asanabwerere ku ofesi, amawoneka kuti akugula zovala ndikupita kukachezanso. Zovala zachisawawa, zokongola, zazimayi zapamwamba ndi zofiira, jeans zowotcha ndi jeans zowongoka, ndi zazifupi zakhala zikugulitsidwa bwino m'masitolo ogulitsa.
Ngakhale kuti makampani ambiri amauza antchito kuti akufunika kubwerera, ogulitsa amanena kuti kugula zovala zantchito si chinthu chofunika kwambiri kwa kasitomala.
M'malo mwake, awona kuchuluka kwa kugula zovala zoti azivala nthawi yomweyo - kumapwando, zikondwerero, zodyera kuseri kwa nyumba, ma cafe akunja, chakudya chamadzulo ndi mabwenzi, ndi tchuthi. Zojambula zowala ndi mitundu ndizofunikira kuti ogula azisangalala.
Komabe, zovala zawo zogwirira ntchito zidzasinthidwa posachedwa, ndipo ogulitsa adaneneratu za maonekedwe a yunifolomu yatsopano yaofesi mu kugwa.
WWD inafunsa ogulitsa akuluakulu kuti aphunzire za malonda m'madera amasiku ano ndi malingaliro awo pa njira yatsopano yovala kubwerera kudziko lapansi.
"Malinga ndi bizinesi yathu, sitinamuwone akugula." Anayang'ana pa zovala zake zachindunji, zovala zake zachilimwe. Sitinawone kufunika kwa zovala zamtundu wa ntchito zachikhalidwe, "Divya Mathur, wamalonda wamkulu wa Intermix, adanena kuti kampaniyo idagulitsidwa ndi Gap Inc. ku kampani yaumwini ya Altamont Capital Partners mwezi uno.
Adafotokozanso kuti kuyambira mliri wa Marichi 2020, makasitomala sanaguleko masika apitawa. "Sanasinthe zovala zake zanyengo kwa zaka pafupifupi ziwiri. [Tsopano] wakhala akuyang'ana kwambiri masika," adatero Mathur.
"Akuyang'ana chovala chosavuta chachilimwe. Chovala chosavuta cha poplin chomwe amatha kuvala ndi nsapato za nsapato. Akuyang'ananso zovala za tchuthi, "adatero. Mathur adanenanso kuti mitundu monga Staud, Veronica Beard, Jonathan Simkhai ndi Zimmermann ndi ena mwazinthu zazikulu zomwe zikugulitsidwa pano.
Iye anati: “Izi si zimene akufuna kugula panopa, koma anati, ‘Sindikusangalala kugula zinthu zomwe ndili nazo kale. Mathur adati kuwonda ndikofunikira nthawi zonse kwa Intermix. "Pankhani ya zomwe zikuyenda pakali pano, iye akuyang'ana zoyenera zaposachedwa. Kwa ife, iyi ndi jeans yapamwamba kwambiri yomwe imadutsa m'miyendo, ndi mtundu wa denim womasuka pang'ono wa 90s. Tili ku Re/done Brands monga AGoldE ndi AGoldE akuchita bwino. Re/done's skinny jeans ali pamoto Kuonjezera apo, kuchapa kwa Moussy Vintage Zotsatira zake ndi zabwino kwambiri, ndipo zimakhala ndi zochititsa chidwi zowononga, "adatero.
Akabudula ndi gulu lina lodziwika bwino. Intermix idayamba kugulitsa akabudula a denim mu February ndipo yagulitsa mazana aiwo. "Nthawi zambiri timawona akabudula a denim kudera lakumwera." Tidayamba kuwona izi pakati pa Marichi, koma zidayamba mu February," adatero Mather. Ananenanso kuti zonsezi ndizokwanira bwino ndipo kusoka ndi "kotentha kwambiri".
Iye anati: “Koma kumasuka kwawo n’kwatalikirapo pang’ono.
Ponena za zovala zawo zogwirira ntchito, adati makasitomala ake amakhala akutali kapena osakanikirana m'chilimwe. "Akukonzekera kuyambiranso moyo mliriwu usanachitike." Anawona kusuntha kwakukulu muzovala zoluka ndi malaya oluka.
"Unifomu yake yamakono ndi jeans yabwino komanso malaya okongola kapena sweti yokongola." Ena mwa pamwamba omwe amagulitsa ndi akazi apamwamba a Ulla Johnson ndi Sea New York. "Zipatsozi ndi zokongola zokongola, kaya ndi zosindikizidwa kapena zokongoletsedwa," adatero.
Akavala ma jeans, makasitomala ake amakonda njira zochapira zosangalatsa komanso masitayelo oyenera, m'malo monena kuti "Ndikufuna ma jeans oyera." Mtundu wake wa denim womwe amakonda ndi mathalauza atali m'chiuno chowongoka.
Mathur adanena kuti akugulitsabe masiketi apamwamba komanso apamwamba. "Tikuwonadi kuwonjezeka kwakukulu kwa bizinesi ya nsapato," adatero.
"Bizinesi yathu ndiyabwino. Uku ndi kuyankha kwabwino kwa 2019. Tiyambanso kukulitsa bizinesi yathu. Tikupereka bizinesi yabwinoko yamitengo yonse kuposa 2019," adatero.
Anawonanso malonda otentha a zovala za zochitika. Makasitomala awo sakuyang'ana mikanjo ya mpira. Akupita ku maukwati, maphwando obadwa, maphwando ofika msinkhu komanso mwambo womaliza maphunziro. Akuyang'ana zinthu zomwe zimakhala zovuta kwambiri kusiyana ndi kuvala wamba kuti akhale mlendo paukwati. Intermix adawona kufunikira kwa Zimmermann. "Tikudzitamandira ndi chilichonse chomwe tabweretsa kuchokera kumtunduwu," adatero Mather.
“Anthu ali ndi zochita m’chilimwechi, koma alibe zovala zobvala. Pamene Intermix idagula nyengo ino mu Seputembala, adaganiza kuti zitenga nthawi yayitali kwambiri kuti abwerere. Inayamba kubwereranso mu March ndi April. "Tinali ndi mantha pang'ono kumeneko, koma tatha kuthamangitsa malonda," adatero.
Ponseponse, kuvala kwamasiku apamwamba kumawerengera 50% ya bizinesi yake. "Bizinesi yathu yowona" imatenga 5% mpaka 8% ya bizinesi yathu," adatero.
Ananenanso kuti kwa amayi omwe ali patchuthi, amagula LoveShackFancy ya Agua Bendita ndi Agua, zomalizazo kukhala zovala zenizeni zatchuthi.
Roopal Patel, wachiŵiri kwa pulezidenti wamkulu ndi wotsogolera mafashoni pa Saks Fifth Avenue, anati: “Tsopano, akazi akukaguladi zinthu. Iye ananena kuti akugula “madiresi okongola, odekha, omasuka, opatsa chidwi, ndiponso osangalatsa amene angawathandize kukhala osangalala.” Mitundu yotchuka m'munda wamakono ndi Zimmermann ndi Tove. , Jonathan Simkhai ndi ALC.
Ponena za ma jeans, Patel nthawi zonse amakhulupirira kuti ma jeans owonda amakhala ngati T-shirt yoyera. "Ngati pali chilichonse, akudzipangira yekha zovala za denim. Akuyang'ana m'chiuno mwake, mabelu a 70s, miyendo yowongoka, kusamba kosiyana, kudulidwa kwa chibwenzi. Kaya ndi denim yoyera kapena yakuda yakuda, kapena bondo Kung'ambika mabowo, ndi majekete ofananira ndi ma jeans ophatikizika ndi zovala zina zofanana, "adatero.
Akuganiza kuti denim yakhala gawo la chakudya chake chachikulu, ngakhale atapita koyenda usiku kapena kuyimba foni masiku ano. Munthawi ya COVID-19, azimayi amavala ma denim, majuzi okongola komanso nsapato zopukutidwa.
"Ndikuganiza kuti akazi adzalemekeza zinthu wamba za denim, koma kwenikweni ndikuganiza kuti akazi adzagwiritsa ntchito mwayi umenewu kuvala bwino. Ngati amavala jeans tsiku lililonse, palibe amene akufuna kuvala jeans. Ofesiyi imatipatsadi mwayi woti tizivala zovala zathu zabwino kwambiri, zidendene zathu zazitali kwambiri ndi nsapato zomwe timakonda komanso kuvala bwino, "adatero Patel.
Iye adati pamene nyengo ikusintha, makasitomala safuna kuvala ma jekete. Iye anati: “Akufuna kuoneka wokongola, kusangalala, timagulitsa mitundu yosangalatsa, timagulitsa nsapato zonyezimira, tikugulitsa nyumba zochititsa chidwi. Iye anati: “Akazi okonda mafashoni amawagwiritsa ntchito ngati chikondwerero chosonyeza mmene amachitira zinthu.
Woyang'anira wokonzekera kuvala wa Women's Women's Bloomingdale, Arielle Siboni, adati: "Tsopano, tikuwona makasitomala akuyankha kuti 'gulani tsopano, valani tsopano'," kuphatikiza zovala zachilimwe ndi tchuthi. "Kwa ife, izi zikutanthauza masiketi aatali ambiri osavuta, akabudula a denim ndi madiresi a poplin. Kusambira ndi kubisala ndi zamphamvu kwambiri kwa ife."
"Pankhani ya madiresi, masitayelo ambiri a bohemian, crochet ndi poplin, ndi midi yosindikizidwa zimagwira ntchito bwino kwa ife," adatero. Zovala za ALC, Bash, Maje ndi Sandro zimagulitsidwa bwino kwambiri. Iye anati kasitomalayu wakhala akumusowa chifukwa ankavala mathalauza ambiri komanso zovala zabwino akakhala kunyumba. “Tsopano ali ndi chifukwa chogulira,” anawonjezera motero.
Gulu lina lamphamvu ndi zazifupi. "Zakabudula za denim ndizabwino kwambiri, makamaka zochokera ku AGoldE," adatero. Anati: "Anthu akufuna kukhala wamba, ndipo anthu ambiri akugwirabe ntchito kunyumba ndi ku Zoom. Iye adati mitundu yonse ya akabudula akugulitsidwa; ena amakhala ndi nsonga zazitali zamkati, Ena ndi akabudula.
Ponena za zovala zobwerera ku ofesi, Siboni adati adawona kuchuluka kwa ma jekete a suti "kuchuluka, zomwe ndi zosangalatsa kwambiri." Anati anthu ayamba kubwerera ku ofesi, koma akuyembekeza kukhwima kwathunthu mu kugwa. Zogulitsa za autumn za Bloomingdale zifika koyambirira kwa Ogasiti.
Ma jeans achikopa amagulitsidwabe, yomwe ndi gawo lalikulu la bizinesi yawo. Anawona mathalauza a denim akusanduka mathalauza owongoka, zomwe zinayamba kuchitika chaka cha 2020 chisanafike. Ma jeans a amayi ndi masitayelo ambiri a retro akugulitsidwa. "TikTok imalimbikitsa kusinthaku kukhala kosavuta," adatero. Anaona kuti jinzi ya Miramar ya Rag & Bone inali yosindikizidwa pa skrini ndipo imawoneka ngati jinzi, koma inkamveka ngati mathalauza amasewera.
Mitundu ya denim yomwe idachita bwino ikuphatikiza Mayi, AGoldE ndi AG. Paige Mayslie wakhala akugulitsa mathalauza othamanga amitundu yosiyanasiyana.
M'dera lapamwamba, chifukwa chapansi ndi chosavuta, T-shirts akhala amphamvu nthawi zonse. Kuonjezera apo, malaya otayirira a bohemian, malaya a prairie, ndi malaya okhala ndi zingwe zokongoletsedwa ndi zikopa zimatchuka kwambiri.
Siboni adanena kuti amagulitsanso zovala zamadzulo zosangalatsa komanso zowala, madiresi oyera aakwati komanso zovala zamadzulo zokongola za prom. Kwa maukwati achilimwe, madiresi ena ochokera ku Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua ndi Nookie ndi abwino kwambiri kwa alendo. Anati LoveShackFancy wavala zovala zolemera, "zodabwitsa kwambiri." Amakhalanso ndi madiresi ambiri a tchuthi a bohemian ndi madiresi omwe amatha kuvala ku bridal shower.
Siboni adawonetsa kuti bizinesi yolembetsa kwa ogulitsa ndi yamphamvu kwambiri, zomwe zikuwonetsa kuti awiriwa akukonzanso masiku awo aukwati ndipo pakufunika zovala za alendo ndi mkwatibwi.
Yumi Shin, wochita bizinesi wamkulu ku Bergdorf Goodman, adati mchaka chatha, makasitomala awo akhala osinthika, akugula zinthu zapadera zomwe zimasiyana ndi mafoni a Zoom komanso splurge yapamwamba.
"Pamene tibwerera ku zizolowezi zabwino, timakhala ndi chiyembekezo." Kugula ndi chisangalalo chatsopano. Osati kokha kubwerera ku ofesi, komanso kukumananso komwe kwakhala kukuyembekezeredwa ndi achibale ndi abwenzi omwe akuganiza za mapulani oyendayenda. Ziyenera kukhala zabwino, "adatero Shen.
Posachedwapa, awona chidwi ndi ma silhouette achikondi, kuphatikizapo manja athunthu kapena tsatanetsatane. Anati Ulla Johnson anachita bwino. "Iye ndi mtundu wabwino kwambiri ndipo amalankhula ndi makasitomala osiyanasiyana," adatero Shin, ndikuwonjezera kuti zinthu zonse zamtunduwu zikugulitsidwa bwino. "Ndiyenera kunena kuti iye [Johnson] ndi umboni wa mliriwu. Timagulitsa masiketi aatali, masiketi apakati, ndipo tayamba kuwona masiketi aafupi. Amadziwika ndi masiketi ake, komanso timagulitsa majumpsuit ake olimba amitundu. Mathalauza, jumpsuit yamtundu wa navy blue akutisangalatsa."
Zovala zanthawi zina ndi gulu lina lodziwika bwino. "Ndithu tikuwona madiresi akuyambanso kutchuka. Makasitomala athu akamayamba kukonzekera zochitika monga maukwati, maphwando omaliza maphunziro, ndi kuyanjananso ndi abwenzi ndi achibale, timawona madiresi akugulitsidwa kuchokera kuzinthu zachilendo kupita ku zochitika zambiri, ndipo ngakhale zovala za Bridal zayambanso kutchuka," adatero Shin.
Ponena za jeans yopyapyala, iye anati: “Ma jeans achikopa nthawi zonse adzakhala ofunikira kukhala nawo mu zovala, koma timakonda zinthu zatsopano zimene timaziwona.” Zovala za denim, mathalauza owongoka m’miyendo ndi thalauza zazitali zazitali zazitali zakhala zotchuka m’zaka za m’ma 90. Timazikondadi kwambiri. Ananenanso kuti mtundu wapadera, Still Here, uli ku Brooklyn, womwe umapanga ma denim ang'onoang'ono, opaka pamanja komanso opakidwa, ndipo amagwira ntchito yabwino. Kuphatikiza apo, Totême adachita bwino, "Tikugulitsanso ma denim oyera." Totême ili ndi zovala zambiri zoluka komanso madiresi, omwe amakhala osavuta.
Atafunsidwa za yunifolomu yatsopano pamene ogula abwerera ku ofesi, iye anati: "Ndikuganiza kuti kavalidwe katsopano kadzakhala komasuka komanso kosavuta. Chitonthozo n'chofunikabe, koma ndikuganiza kuti chidzasintha kupita ku masitayelo apamwamba a tsiku ndi tsiku. Ananenanso kuti kugwa kusanachitike, adayambitsa mtundu woluka, Lisa Yang, womwe umakhudza kwambiri kufananitsa zovala. Ili ku Stockholm ndipo imagwiritsa ntchito cashmere yachilengedwe. "Ndi yabwino kwambiri ndipo ikuchita bwino, ndipo tikukhulupirira kuti ipitilira kuchita bwino.
Anawonjezeranso kuti amayang'ana momwe jekete ikuyendera, koma momasuka. Anati kusinthasintha komanso kukonza zinthu ndizomwe ndizofunikira. "Azimayi adzafuna kutenga zovala zawo kuchokera kunyumba kupita ku ofesi kuti akakumane ndi anzawo; ziyenera kukhala zosinthasintha komanso zoyenera kwa iye. Ichi chidzakhala malamulo atsopano," adatero.
Libby Page, Senior Marketing Editor wa Net-a-porter, anati: "Pamene makasitomala athu akuyembekezera kubwerera ku ofesi, tikuwona kusintha kuchokera kuvala wamba kupita ku masitayelo apamwamba kwambiri. Ponena za mayendedwe, tikuwona kuchokera ku Chloé, Zimmermann ndi Isabel. Zojambula za Marant ndi maluwa a madiresi aakazi zawonjezeka-akasupe iyi ndi nthawi yotentha yamasiku ofunda, zovala zathu zausiku ndizoyeneranso kuvala usiku umodzi. Chochitika cha HS21, tikhazikitsa 'Chic in' pa June 21 The Heat 'ikutsindika nyengo yofunda komanso zovala zobwerera kuntchito. "
Ananenanso kuti akafika pamawonekedwe a denim, amawona masitayilo omasuka, akulu komanso kuchuluka kwa masitayilo a baluni, makamaka chaka chatha, chifukwa makasitomala awo amafunafuna chitonthozo pazovala zake zonse. Ananenanso kuti ma jeans owongoka achikale asanduka masitayelo osunthika muzovala, ndipo mtundu wawo wasintha izi powonjezera kalembedwe kameneka pachikuto chake chachikulu.
Atafunsidwa ngati sneakers ndiye chisankho choyamba, adanena kuti Net-a-porter adayambitsa matani oyera oyera ndi mawonekedwe a retro m'chilimwe, monga mgwirizano wa Loewe ndi Maison Margiela x Reebok.
Ponena za ziyembekezo zake za yunifolomu yatsopano yaofesi komanso mafashoni atsopano a kavalidwe ka anthu, Page adati, "Mitundu yowala yomwe imabweretsa chisangalalo idzakhala nkhani yaikulu ya masika." Zosonkhanitsa zathu zaposachedwa kwambiri za Dries Van Noten zimaphatikiza kusalowerera ndale chifukwa cha masitayelo omasuka komanso owoneka bwino. mgwirizano
Zinthu zodziwika pa Net-a-porter zimaphatikizapo zinthu zodziwika bwino zochokera ku Frankie Shop, monga ma jekete okhala ndi zingwe komanso suti yawo yamasewera a Net-a-porter; Mapangidwe a Jacquemus, monga nsonga ndi masiketi, ndi madiresi Aatali okhala ndi zosokoneza, madiresi amaluwa ndi achikazi a Doen, ndi zovala za Totême zakumasika ndi zachilimwe.
Marie Ivanoff-Smith, woyang'anira mafashoni a amayi a Nordstrom, adanena kuti makasitomala amakono akuganiza zobwerera kuntchito ndipo ayamba kuchita nawo nsalu zolukidwa ndi nsalu zambiri za malaya. Amatha kuvala kapena kuvala, akhoza kuvala tsopano, ndipo akhoza kubwerera ku ofesi kwathunthu m'dzinja.
"Tidawona kubwereranso koluka, osati kungobwerera kuntchito, koma kutuluka usiku, ndipo adayamba kufufuza izi." Anati Nordstrom adagwira ntchito bwino kwambiri ndi Rag & Bone ndi Nili Lotan, ndipo adati "ali ndi nsalu yotchinga malaya". Iye ananena kuti kusindikiza ndi mitundu yake n’kofunika kwambiri. "Mafamu a Rio akupha. Sitingathe kupirira. Izi ndizabwino," adatero.
Ananenanso kuti makasitomala amakonda kwambiri mawonekedwe a thupi ndipo amatha kuwonetsa khungu. "Makhalidwe a anthu akuchitika," adatero. Adatchulapo zitsanzo za ogulitsa monga Ulla Johnson omwe akuchita bwino mderali. Ananenanso kuti Alice + Olivia adzayambitsa madiresi ambiri pamisonkhano. Nordstrom wachita ntchito yabwino ndi malonda monga Ted Baker, Ganni, Staud ndi Cinq à Sept. Wogulitsa uyu amachita ntchito yabwino ya madiresi achilimwe.
Iye adati adawona madiresi amtundu uliwonse achita bwino chaka chatha chifukwa amakhala omasuka. "Tsopano tikuwona mabelu ndi mluzu akubwerera ndi zojambula zokongola. Ndi chisangalalo ndi malingaliro, tulukani m'nyumba," adatero.
Nthawi yotumiza: Jul-08-2021