Kaya akatswiri ambiri a zovala za amuna awerenga mwambo womaliza wa suti iyi pambuyo pa mliriwu, amuna akuoneka kuti akufunikiranso zovala ziwirizi. Komabe, monga zinthu zambiri, suti yachilimwe ikusinthidwa kukhala yogawanika, yosinthidwa, ndipo pamapeto pake ikuphunzira kukonda mapini a nsalu, ndipo ngati mukukayikira, mutha kuvalanso nsapato zofewa.
Ndimakonda masuti, koma ndimavala chifukwa amandisangalatsa, osati chifukwa ntchito yanga imandikakamiza kutero, kotero ndimavala modabwitsa kwambiri. Masiku ano, n'zovuta kuganiza kuti pali ntchito zambiri zoti ndizivala suti: oyendetsa a Mercedes S-Class ndi BMW 7 Series, alonda okwera mtengo okhala ndi zingwe zopota pa makola awo, oweruza milandu, ofunsa mafunso pantchito, komanso andale. Makamaka Andale amavala masuti ndikuchita magule amanjenje, monga momwe taonera pa G7; cholinga chake chinkaoneka kuti chinali kupeza mawonekedwe osasangalatsa komanso osasangalatsa kwenikweni.
Koma kwa ife omwe sititsegula magulu a anthu olemera kapena kutenga nawo mbali m'mabwalo a maboma osiyanasiyana, suti yachilimwe ndi mwayi wopumula ndikubwerera pang'onopang'ono kudziko losavomerezeka. Tiyenera kuganizira zomwe timavala pa maphwando a m'munda, mawonetsero a opera otseguka, misonkhano ya mpikisano, masewera a tennis, ndi chakudya chamasana chakunja (langizo lothandiza: ngati akupereka china chake chapamwamba kuposa ma burger ndi mowa wachinsinsi, chonde siyani ma Shorts okhala ndi utoto wa simenti ... ganizirani, ingowatayani).
Maganizo a amuna aku Britain pa nthawi yachilimwe yodziwika bwino nthawi zina amaoneka ngati osiyana, koma pali njira yoti igwiritsidwe ntchito pakati pa Charybdis mu zovala zazifupi ndi Scylla mu zovala zachilimwe, zomwe zikutsogolera amuna ochokera ku Del Monte ndi Sandhill. Kupambana nthawi zambiri kumakhala popanga zisankho zoyenera za nsalu.
M'zaka zingapo zapitazi, seersucker yachotsa miyambo yake yabuluu kapena yofiira ndipo yatuluka m'gulu la pupa ngati gulugufe wokongola. "Chaka chino ndapanga masuti ambiri a seersucker ku Wimbledon ndi Goodwood kuposa zaka 10 zapitazi. Ikubadwanso kwenikweni, kutengera mtundu wake," adatero Terry Haste wa ku Kent & Haste, Savile Street, pakadali pano seersucker wamitundu yambiri akumuwonetsa Ken Kesey mumtima mwake. "Pali buluu ndi wobiriwira, buluu ndi golide, buluu ndi bulauni, ndi mizere ya gridi ndi sikweya."
Mmodzi mwa atsogoleri a seersucker oganiza bwino ndi Cacciopoli, wogulitsa nsalu ku Naples, koma seersucker sikuti amangopereka utoto, komanso amachotsa nkhawa za makwinya: makwinya ndiye mfundo yofunika; kwenikweni, amakwinya kale, amamasuka kale Inde, oyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito m'chilimwe.
Michael Hill wa Drake anati ndi kumva kophweka kumeneku komwe kwachititsa kuti nsalu ya nsalu ifalikire chaka chino. "Chomwe chatithandiza kwambiri ndi zovala zathu za nsalu ya nsalu. Palibe chomwe chasintha kwambiri pa mitundu yopambana: buluu, lalanje, lachikasu, ndi lachikasu." Koma kusiyana kwake ndikuti adayang'ana kwambiri zomwe adazitcha. Mu zovala za "suti yamasewera", adazisiyanitsa ndi zosoka wamba.
"Ndi nkhani yokhudza kukumbatira crease. Simukufuna kukhala wamtengo wapatali kwambiri, ndipo mfundo yakuti mungathe kuiyika mu makina ochapira imathandiza kuti sutiyo ikhale yosavuta kuigwiritsa ntchito. Amuna amafuna kuvala mosiyana ndikudula ndi polo shirt kapena T-sheti kuti aswe majekete ndi mathalauza. Chilimwe chino, tikuwona mitundu yambiri yovala zovala zapamwamba kuphatikiza zovala zapamwamba ndi zovala zosavomerezeka, zipewa zakale zokongola za baseball ndi malaya ofewa a canvas ndi masuti. Dziwani bwino, ndi dynamite."
Chimodzi mwa zifukwa zomwe zimachititsa kuti aganizirenso za sutiyi ndikuti Drake sagulitsa suti yamasewera ngati suti, koma ngati yosiyana yomwe ingavalidwe ngati suti. Maganizo amenewa omwe amaoneka ngati otsutsana, ogulitsa zovala zachilimwe zosavala ngati zinthu ziwiri zofanana padera, nawonso amachita gawo mu Connolly. Imapereka mtundu wosagwedera, womwe mkulu wa Connolly, Isabel Ettedgui, amafotokoza kuti ndi "seersucker waukadaulo."
“Timagulitsa ngati majekete ndi mathalauza a m’chiuno otambalala,” anatero Ettedgui. “Amuna amakonda izi chifukwa amaganiza kuti angathe kuzigula padera, ngakhale atapanda kuzigula. Tazigulitsa kwa azaka 23 ndi azaka 73 omwe amakonda mitundu yosavala bwino ndipo savala masokosi.”
Zegna ali ndi nkhani yofanana. Wotsogolera zaluso Alessandro Sartori anafotokoza kuti masuti akale ndi otchuka kwa makasitomala opangidwa mwapadera komanso opangidwa mwaluso, "Amavala masuti kuti asangalale." . Nkhani yokonzeka kuvala ndi ina. "Amagula zinthu payekhapayekha kwa wopanga zovala wamkulu, amasankha top kapena ntchito yapakhomo, ndikupanga suti yogwirizana ndi pamwamba ndi pansi," adatero. Nsaluyo imapangidwa ndi silika wopota ndi cashmere, ndipo kusakaniza kwa nsalu, thonje ndi nsalu kumagwiritsa ntchito mitundu yatsopano ya pastel.
Wosoka zovala wotchuka wa ku Neapolitan, Rubinacci, nayenso anasintha kukhala wokongola kwambiri. “Safari Park ndiyo yopambana chilimwe chino chifukwa ndi yabwino komanso yosavuta,” anatero Mariano Rubinacci. “Ndi yopumula chifukwa ili ngati shati yopanda nsalu, koma imavalidwa ngati jekete, kotero imatha kukhala yovomerezeka, ndipo matumba ake onse ndi othandiza.”
Ponena za zovala zakale, ndimasirira kwambiri jekete la thonje la ku Madras lomwe mwana wanga wamng'ono adagula pamsika wa Portobello: zovala zokhala ndi mphamvu ya Proust zomwe zimakumbutsa chithunzi cha America mu nthawi ya Eisenhower. Cheke ikakhala yolimba, imakhala yabwino kwambiri. .. Koma ndi mathalauza wamba.
Ngakhale Huntsman wa ku linga lalikulu la Savile Street waona kuti pali kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa anthu. Mtsogoleri wa Zachilengedwe Campbell Carey anati: “Asanayambe Covid, anthu anali okonzeka kuvala majekete a suti ndi mathalauza abwino pamisonkhano.” “Chilimwe chino, sitingathe kugulitsa majekete a suti otseguka opangidwa ndi maukonde. Kapangidwe kake kamatanthauza kuti kakhoza kupotozedwa. Kamabwera mumitundu yosiyanasiyana ndi mitundu kuti kakhale kosinthasintha kwambiri ndi kusakaniza kwanu, ndipo mutha kuichotsa kuti mpweya ulowe ndi kutuluka.” Carey anaperekanso zomwe adazitcha “zodula za kumapeto kwa sabata.” Zidakali mu mawonekedwe a Huntsman; mawoko aatali, batani, ndi chiuno, “koma mzere wa phewa ndi wofewa pang'ono, tinafewetsa kapangidwe ka nsalu, ndipo kapangidwe ka kutsogolo ndi kamodzi, m'malo mwa ubweya [wolimba] wa akavalo.”
Ponena za malaya, lingaliro lake ndikukupangitsani kuwoneka ngati mukuvala shati yotseguka, m'malo mongobwera kuchokera ku maliro a mafia ndikumasula tayi yanu mwachangu ndikutsegula kolala yanu ya malaya. Malangizo anga ndi oti muvale shati yopangidwa ndi nsalu yanzeru ngati Bel of Barcelona. Kapangidwe kake kalibe lamba wa pakhosi ndi batani lapamwamba, koma mawonekedwe amkati amawoneka anzeru, ndipo kolalayo imapitirirabe kugwedezeka chifukwa cha mabatani omwe ali pakona ya kolala.
Kuchokera pamenepo, mutha kusankhanso malaya a tchuthi otseguka, kolala ndi mtundu wa malaya okhala ndi kolala ya Lido yomwe imalalikidwa ndi wopanga zovala za amuna Scott Fraser Simpson. Ngati ndinu wokonda masewera olimbitsa thupi, onani akaunti ya Instagram ya Wei Koh, yemwe anayambitsa Rake Tailored. Anakhala nthawi yayitali ku Singapore, akufananiza masuti ake ambiri ndi malaya aku Hawaii ndikujambula zotsatira zake.
Chikondwererochi chidzabwereranso pagulu lathu la okamba nkhani ndi mitu yosiyanasiyana ku Kenwood House (komanso pa intaneti) pa Seputembala 4. Kuyika zonsezi kudzakhala kudzutsa mzimu ndi kuthekera kokonzanso dziko lapansi pambuyo pa mliri. Kuti mugulitse matikiti, chonde pitani kuno.
Koma ngakhale masiku ano anthu ambiri akakhala ndi zovala zomasuka, nthawi zina malaya aku Hawaii angaonedwe ngati a de trop ndipo anthu angaone kuti ndi bwino kuvala tayi; chifukwa cha ichi, matai a silika osokedwa ndi chisankho chabwino kwambiri. Ndi njira yabwino kwambiri yoyendera, chifukwa ikapotozedwa kukhala mpira ndikuyikidwa mu ngodya ya sutikesi, sidzakwinya kapena kupotoka. Ngakhale zikumveka zotsutsana, zimawoneka zomasuka kwambiri - ngati simukukhulupirira, chonde onani chithunzi cha David Hockney ndi tayi yosokedwa pa Google, yomwe angagwiritse ntchito ndi mathalauza opakidwa utoto ndi manja opindidwa.
Zidzakhala zosangalatsa kuona ngati ngakhale matai oluka angapulumuke monga momwe Huntsman's Carey ananenera. Kupatukana kumeneku kudakali ndi ulendo wautali. Ngati chilimwe chino chili pafupi ndi blazer ya mesh, tsopano akuyang'ana kwambiri mbali ina ya suti ya zidutswa ziwiri, ndipo motsogozedwa ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya seersucker, akugwira ntchito pa zomwe amatcha mndandanda wa "ma shorts a mafashoni". "Adzabwera chaka chamawa. "Inde," adatero, "koma musalakwitse, jekete la suti ndi ma shorts afika."
Nthawi yotumizira: Sep-13-2021