Muri iki gihe cy'impeshyi n'impeshyi, mbere yuko abagore basubira mu biro, basa n'aho barimo guhaha imyenda bongera kujya gusabana. Imyenda isanzwe, amakanzu meza, y'abagore n'amashati, amapantalo ya jeans agaragara neza n'amapantalo magufi, n'amakabutura magufi byagurishijwe cyane mu maduka.
Nubwo amasosiyete menshi akomeje kubwira abakozi ko bagomba gutangira kugaruka, abacuruzi bavuga ko kugura imyenda y'akazi atari cyo kintu cy'ingenzi abakiriya bashyira imbere.
Ahubwo, babonye ukwiyongera k’umusaruro w’imyenda yo kwambara ako kanya—mu birori, mu birori, mu rugo, mu ma cafe yo hanze, mu mafunguro ya nimugoroba n’inshuti, no mu biruhuko. Amabara meza n’amabara ni ingenzi kugira ngo abaguzi barusheho kugira ibyiyumvo byiza.
Ariko, imyenda yabo yo gukoreramo izavugururwa vuba, kandi abacuruzi bahanuye bimwe mu bijyanye n'isura y'imyenda mishya y'ibiro mu gihe cy'impeshyi.
WWD yaganiriye n'abacuruzi bakomeye kugira ngo bamenye ibijyanye n'ubucuruzi mu bice bigezweho n'uko babona uburyo bushya bwo kwishimisha.
“Ku bijyanye n’ubucuruzi bwacu, ntabwo twamubonye agura. Yibanze ku myenda ye y’imyambaro, imyenda ye yo mu mpeshyi. Ntabwo twabonye ko icyifuzo cy’imyenda gakondo y’akazi cyatangiye kwiyongera,” uyu ni Divya Mathur, umucuruzi mukuru wa Intermix, yavuze ko iyi sosiyete yagurishijwe na Gap Inc. ku sosiyete yigenga ya Altamont Capital Partners muri uku kwezi.
Yasobanuye ko kuva icyorezo cya Werurwe 2020 cyatangira, abakiriya nta kintu na kimwe bagura mu mpeshyi ishize. Mathur yagize ati: “Muri make, amaze imyaka hafi ibiri adavugurura imyenda ye y’igihembwe. Ubu yibanda ku mpeshyi 100%.”
Yagize ati: “Ari gushaka ikanzu yoroshye yo mu mpeshyi. Ikanzu yoroshye ya poplin ashobora kwambara hamwe n’inkweto ndende. Ari gushaka kandi imyenda yo mu biruhuko.” Mathur yagaragaje ko ibirango nka Staud, Veronica Beard, Jonathan Simkhai na Zimmermann ari bimwe mu bicuruzwa bikomeye biri kugurishwa muri iki gihe.
“Ibi si byo ashaka kugura ubu. Yaravuze ati: 'Sinishimiye kugura ibyo nsanzwe mfite.'” Mathur yavuze ko ubunanuke buri gihe ari ingenzi kuri Intermix. Yagize ati: “Ku bijyanye n’ibiri kuvugwa ubu, arimo gushaka ibigezweho. Kuri twe, iyi ni ipantaro y’amapantaro maremare igenda inyura mu maguru, hamwe n’ipantaro y’amapantaro yo mu myaka ya za 90 idafite isura. Turi muri Re/done Brands nka AGoldE na AGoldE zimeze neza. Ipantaro y’amapantaro ya AGoldE yahoraga igurishwa cyane kubera ibintu bishya bishimishije. Ipantaro y’amapantaro ya Re/done irimo gushya. Byongeye kandi, Moussy Vintage's wash The effect ni nziza cyane, kandi ifite imiterere ishimishije kandi iteye ubwoba,”
Amakabutura magufi ni ikindi cyiciro gikunzwe cyane. Intermix yatangiye kugurisha amakabutura magufi ya denim muri Gashyantare kandi imaze kugurisha amagana yayo. Mather yagize ati: “Ubusanzwe tubona amakabutura magufi ya denim agaruka mu karere k’amajyepfo. Twatangiye kubona aya makabutura hagati muri Werurwe, ariko yatangiye muri Gashyantare.” Yavuze ko ibi byose ari ukugira ngo arusheho kumera neza kandi ko ubudozi “bushyushye cyane”.
Yagize ati: “Ariko ubwoko bwabo butoshye ni burebure gato. Bumeze nk’aho bwacitse kandi bucitse. Burasukuye, ni burebure, kandi ikibuno ni nk’igikapu cy’impapuro.”
Ku bijyanye n'imyenda yabo yo ku kazi, yavuze ko abakiriya be baba bari kure cyangwa bavanze mu mpeshyi. “Barateganya kongera ubuzima bwabo mbere y'uko icyorezo kigera mu gihe cy'impeshyi.” Yabonye abantu benshi bambaye imyenda yo kuboha n'amashati yaboshywe.
“Imyenda ye y’imbere ubu ni ipantaro nziza ya jeans n’ishati nziza cyangwa sweta nziza.” Amwe mu mashati bagurisha ni ay’abagore ya Ulla Johnson na Sea New York. Yavuze ati: “Izi sosiyete ni amashati meza yacapwe, yaba acapwe cyangwa akozwe mu budodo.”
Iyo yambaye ipantalo ya jeans, abakiriya be bakunda uburyo bushimishije bwo kumesa no kujyana imyenda yabo, aho kuvuga bati “Ndashaka ipantalo y’umweru.” Ipantalo ya jeans akunda cyane ni ipantalo ifite amaguru agororotse kandi iremereye.
Mathur yavuze ko akomeje kugurisha inkweto nshya kandi zigezweho. Yagize ati: “Mu by’ukuri tubona iterambere rikomeye mu bucuruzi bw’inkweto za sandali.”
Yagize ati: “Ubucuruzi bwacu ni bwiza cyane. Iki ni igisubizo cyiza kuri 2019. Tuzongera gutangira guteza imbere ubucuruzi bwacu. Turimo gutanga ubucuruzi bwiza ku giciro cyuzuye kurusha uko byari bimeze muri 2019.”
Yanabonye imyenda igurishwa cyane mu birori. Abakiriya babo ntibashaka imyenda y'umupira. Agiye kwitabira ubukwe, ibirori byo kwizihiza isabukuru, ibirori byo gukura mu myaka ndetse n'ibirori byo kurangiza amasomo. Arimo gushaka ibikoresho bigezweho kuruta kwambara bisanzwe kugira ngo abe umushyitsi muri ubu bukwe. Intermix yabonye ko Zimmermann akeneye. Mather yagize ati: “Turi kwirata ku byo twazanye byose bivuye muri icyo kirango.”
Yagize ati: “Abantu bafite ibikorwa muri iki gihembwe cy’impeshyi, ariko nta myenda bafite yo kwambara. Umuvuduko wo gukira urihuta kurusha uko twari tubyiteze.” Ubwo Intermix yaguraga iki gihembwe muri Nzeri, batekereje ko bizatwara igihe kirekire kugira ngo igaruke. Yatangiye kugaruka muri Werurwe na Mata. Yagize ati: “Twari dufite ubwoba gato aho, ariko twashoboye gukurikirana icyo gicuruzwa.”
Muri rusange, imyenda ihenze cyane igizwe na 50% by'ubucuruzi bwayo. Yagize ati: “Ubucuruzi bwacu bw'ibirori nyakuri bugizwe na 5% kugeza kuri 8% by'ubucuruzi bwacu.”
Yongeyeho ko ku bagore bari mu biruhuko, bagura LoveShackFancy na Agua ya Agua Bendita, iyi ya nyuma ikaba imyenda nyayo y'ibiruhuko.
Roopal Patel, visi perezida mukuru akaba n'umuyobozi w'imideli muri Saks Fifth Avenue, yagize ati: “Ubu, abagore baragura rwose. Abagore ntibambara imyenda yo gusubira mu biro, ahubwo bambara ubuzima bwabo bwose. Bajya guhaha kugira ngo bagure imyenda muri resitora, cyangwa barye ifunguro rya nimugoroba cyangwa ifunguro rya saa sita, cyangwa bicare muri cafe yo hanze kugira ngo barye ifunguro rya nimugoroba.” Yavuze ko barimo kugura “amakanzu meza, yoroshye, yoroshye, yuzuye kandi y’amabara menshi ashobora kwiruka no kunoza ibyiyumvo byabo.” Ibirango bizwi cyane muri iki gihe birimo Zimmermann na Tove. , Jonathan Simkhai na ALC.
Ku bijyanye n'amajini, Patel yahoraga yemera ko amajini magufi ameze nk'ishati y'umweru. Yagize ati: “Niba hari icyo ari cyo cyose, arimo kwiyubakira ikanzu ye bwite ya denim. Areba imitako miremire, amashuka yo mu myaka ya za 70, amaguru agororotse, imyenda itandukanye, imitako y'abakundana. Yaba denim yera cyangwa denim y'umukara, cyangwa ivi. Utwobo twacitse, n'amakoti n'amajini bihuye n'indi myenda ihuye.”
Atekereza ko denim yabaye kimwe mu biribwa bye by'ibanze, uko byaba bimeze kose iyo agiye hanze nijoro cyangwa ahamagaye muri iyi minsi. Muri iki gihe cya COVID-19, abagore bambara denim, sweaters nziza n'inkweto zishushanyije.
Patel yagize ati: “Ndatekereza ko abagore bazubahiriza ibintu bisanzwe bya denim, ariko mu by’ukuri ndatekereza ko abagore bazakoresha aya mahirwe kugira ngo bambare neza. Niba bambara jins buri munsi, nta muntu ushaka kwambara jins. Ibiro biduha amahirwe yo kwambara imyenda myiza cyane, inkweto ndende ndende n’inkweto dukunda no kwambara neza.”
Yavuze ko uko ikirere gihinduka, abakiriya badashaka kwambara amakoti. Yagize ati: “Arashaka kugaragara neza, arashaka kwishimisha. Ducuruza amabara meza, tugurisha inkweto zibengerana. Turimo kugurisha amazu meza.” Yagize ati: “Abagore bakunda imideli bayikoresha nk'ibirori byo kugaragaza imiterere yabo bwite. Ni ukugira ngo bumve bameze neza.”
Umuyobozi w’ikigo cy’abagore cya Bloomingdale, Arielle Siboni, yagize ati: “Ubu, tubona abakiriya bitabira ibicuruzwa byinshi bya ‘gura ubu, wambare ubu’,” harimo imyenda yo mu mpeshyi n’iy’ikiruhuko. “Kuri twe, ibi bivuze amajipo maremare menshi yoroshye, amakanzu magufi ya denim n’amakanzu ya poplin. Koga no kwitwikira birakomeye cyane kuri twe.”
Yagize ati: “Ku bijyanye n’imyenda, imyenda myinshi ya bohemian, crocheting na poplin, na midi icapishijwe biradushimisha cyane.” Imyenda ya ALC, Bash, Maje na Sandro iragurishwa cyane. Yavuze ko uyu mukiriya yahoraga amukumbura kuko yambaraga amapantaro menshi n’imyenda imushimisha cyane iyo yabaga ari mu rugo. Yongeyeho ati: “Noneho afite impamvu yo kugura.”
Ikindi cyiciro gikomeye ni amakabutura magufi. Yagize ati: “Amakabutura magufi ya denim ni meza cyane, cyane cyane aturuka muri AGoldE.” Yagize ati: “Abantu bashaka kuguma mu buryo busanzwe, kandi abantu benshi baracyakorera mu ngo zabo no kuri Zoom. Ushobora kutabona uko amakabutura ari.” Yavuze ko ubwoko bwose bw’amakabutura magufi buri kugurishwa; amwe afite imigozi miremire imbere, andi akaba ari amakabutura magufi.
Ku bijyanye n'imyenda yo gusubira mu biro, Siboni yavuze ko yabonye umubare w'amakoti y'amakoti “ugenda wiyongera rwose, ibyo bikaba bishimishije cyane.” Yavuze ko abantu batangiye kugaruka mu biro, ariko yiteze ko bizaba byakuze neza mu gihe cy'impeshyi. Ibicuruzwa bya Bloomingdale bizagera mu ntangiriro za Kanama.
Amapantalo y'amajini yoroheje aracyagurishwa, ari na yo agize uruhare runini mu bucuruzi bwabo. Yabonye amapantalo y'amajini ahinduka amapantalo y'amaguru agororotse, ibyo bikaba byaratangiye kubaho mbere ya 2020. Amapantalo y'amajini ya mama n'indi myambarire ya kera biragurishwa. Yagize ati: “TikTok ishimangira iyi mpinduka igana ku myambarire idafite ishingiro.” Yabonye ko amapantalo ya Rag & Bone ya Miramar yari yacapwe mu buryo bwa ecran kandi asa n'amapantalo y'amajini, ariko yumvaga ameze nk'amapantalo ya siporo.
Ibirango bya denim byitwaye neza birimo Mother, AGoldE na AG. Paige Mayslie yagiye agurisha amapantalo yo kwiruka mu mabara atandukanye.
Mu gice cyo hejuru, kubera ko hasi ari ahantu hasanzwe, imipira ya T-shirts yahoraga ikomeye. Byongeye kandi, imipira ya bohemian idafite ishingiro, imipira yo mu misozi miremire, n'imipira ifite imishumi n'amaso nabyo birakunzwe cyane.
Siboni yavuze ko banagurisha imyenda myinshi ishimishije kandi irabagirana yo ku mugoroba, amakanzu yera y’abageni n’imyenda myiza yo ku mugoroba yo mu birori byo gusezerana. Ku bukwe bwo mu mpeshyi, amwe mu makanzu ya Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua na Nookie akwiriye cyane abashyitsi. Yavuze ko LoveShackFancy yambara imyenda iremereye, “itangaje cyane.” Bafite kandi amakanzu menshi y’ibirori bya bohemian n’amakanzu ashobora kwambarwa mu gihe cyo kwiyuhagira abageni.
Siboni yagaragaje ko ubucuruzi bwo kwiyandikisha bw'uyu mucuruzi bukomeye cyane, ibi bikaba bigaragaza ko aba bombi barimo guhindura amatariki y'ubukwe bwabo kandi hari icyifuzo cy'imyambaro y'abashyitsi n'iy'abageni.
Yumi Shin, umucuruzi mukuru wa Bergdorf Goodman, yavuze ko mu mwaka ushize, abakiriya babo bagiye bahindura imiterere, bagura ibicuruzwa byihariye bitandukanye na telefoni za Zoom ndetse n'amafaranga y'agaciro ku giti cyabo.
“Uko tugenda dusubira mu buzima busanzwe, twumva dufite icyizere. Guhaha ni ikintu gishya rwose. Si ukugaruka mu biro gusa, ahubwo no guhura n’umuryango n’inshuti batekereza ku ngendo. Bigomba kuba ari byiza,” Shen yagize ati.
Vuba aha, babonye abantu bashishikajwe n'imyenda y'urukundo, harimo n'amaboko yuzuye cyangwa udupira tw'amabara. Yavuze ko Ulla Johnson yitwaye neza. “Ni ikirango cyiza cyane kandi aganira n'abakiriya benshi batandukanye,” Shin yagize ati, yongeraho ko ibicuruzwa byose by'iki kirango bigurishwa neza. “Ndagomba kuvuga ko [Johnson] ari igihamya cy'icyorezo. Tugurisha amajipo maremare, amajipo yo hagati, kandi dutangiye kubona amajipo magufi. Azwiho amafoto ye, kandi tunagurisha amajipo ye y'amabara meza. Amapantalo, amajipo y'ubururu butukura arimo kutwigaragaza.”
Imyambaro y'ibirori ni ikindi cyiciro gikunzwe cyane. Shin yagize ati: “Nta gushidikanya ko turimo kubona imyenda yongera gukundwa. Uko abakiriya bacu batangira kwitegura ibirori nk'ubukwe, ibirori byo kurangiza amasomo, no guhura n'inshuti n'umuryango, tubona imyenda igurishwa hirya no hino kuva ku minsi mikuru kugeza ku yindi myinshi, ndetse n'imyenda y'abageni nayo yongeye gukundwa.”
Ku bijyanye n'amajini yoroheje, yagize ati: “Amajini yoroheje azahora ari ikintu cy'ingenzi mu myenda y'imyenda, ariko dukunda ibicuruzwa bishya tubona. Amajini y'ubwoko bwa denim, amapantalo y'amaguru agororotse n'amapantalo y'amaguru maremare byakunzwe cyane mu myaka ya za 90. Twebwe rwose arayakunda cyane.” Yavuze ko hari ikirango cyihariye, Still Here, giherereye i Brooklyn, gikora amajini mato, ashushanyijeho irangi n'amabara, kandi akora akazi keza. Byongeye kandi, Totême yitwaye neza, “Turimo kandi kugurisha amajini y'umweru.” Totême ifite imyenda myinshi myiza yo kuboha n'amakanzu, kandi ni ay'ubusa.
Ubwo yabazwaga ibijyanye n'imyenda mishya iyo abaguzi bagarutse mu biro, yagize ati: “Ndatekereza ko imyambarire mishya izaba iruhutse kandi ihindagurika. Ihumure riracyari ingenzi, ariko ndatekereza ko izahinduka ikajya mu myambarire ya buri munsi y'akataraboneka. Twabonye imyenda myinshi y'ubudodo igezweho dukunda.” Yavuze ko mbere y'umuhindo, batangije ikirango cyihariye cyo kuboha, Lisa Yang, kivuga cyane cyane ku bijyanye no guhuza imyenda y'ubudodo. Iherereye i Stockholm kandi ikoresha cashmere karemano. “Ni nziza cyane kandi ikora neza, kandi twizeye ko izakomeza gukora neza. Iraryoshye ariko iraryoshye.”
Yongeyeho ko yari arimo kureba uko ikoti rimeze, ariko arushaho kuruhuka. Yavuze ko gukora ibintu bitandukanye no kudoda bizaba ari byo by'ingenzi. Yagize ati: “Abagore bazakenera kujyana imyenda yabo mu rugo bayijyana ku biro kugira ngo bahure n'inshuti; igomba kuba ifite uburyo butandukanye kandi imubereye. Iyi izaba ari yo myambarire mishya.”
Libby Page, Umuyobozi Mukuru w’Itangazamakuru rya Net-a-porter, yagize ati: “Mu gihe abakiriya bacu bategereje kugaruka mu biro, turimo kubona impinduka kuva ku myambarire isanzwe tujya ku myambarire igezweho. Mu bijyanye n’ibigezweho, tubona kuri Chloé, Zimmermann na Isabel. Imiterere y’amabara ya Marant n’imitako y’indabyo ku myenda y’abagore byariyongereye - iki ni cyo gicuruzwa cyiza cyane ku myenda y’akazi yo mu mpeshyi, kandi kibereye no ku manywa na nijoro bishyushye. Nk’uko biri mu gikorwa cyacu cya HS21, tuzatangiza 'Chic in' ku ya 21 Kamena The Heat' ishimangira ikirere gishyushye n’imyambarire yo gusubira ku kazi.”
Yavuze ko iyo bigeze ku bijyanye n'imyambarire ya denim, babona imyenda yoroheje, minini ndetse n'ubwiyongere bw'imyambarire ya baluni, cyane cyane umwaka ushize, kuko abakiriya babo bashaka ihumure mu myenda ye yose. Yavuze ko ipantalo za jeans zisanzwe zigororotse zabaye imyambarire ikoreshwa mu myenda, kandi ikirango cyabo cyahinduye iyi myambarire cyongeramo iyi myambarire mu ikusanyirizo ryayo ry'ingenzi.
Ubwo yabazwaga niba inkweto zo mu bwoko bwa sneakers ari zo za mbere, yavuze ko Net-a-porter yazanye amabara meza y'umweru n'imiterere ya kera n'uburyo bwo kwambara mu mpeshyi, nk'ubufatanye bwa Loewe na Maison Margiela x Reebok.
Ku bijyanye n'ibyo yiteze ku myambaro mishya yo mu biro n'imyambarire mishya yo gusabana, Page yagize ati: “Amabara meza atera ibyishimo azaba ari yo shingiro ry'impeshyi. Icyegeranyo cyacu gishya cya Dries Van Noten cyerekana uburyo bworoshye bwo kwambara imyenda n'imyenda biruhura. Imitako myiza kandi ishimishije ijyanye n'isura iyo ari yo yose ya buri munsi. Turabona kandi ko gukundwa kwa denim bikomeje kwiyongera, cyane cyane ko duherutse gutangiza ubufatanye bwa Valentino x Levi. Twizeye kubona abakiriya bacu bambara denim mu biro byabo. Bishyire hamwe na denim kugira ngo bigire isura nziza kandi bihindukire neza mu birori byo gusangira,” nk'uko yabitangaje.
Ibintu bikunzwe cyane kuri Net-a-porter birimo ibintu bikunzwe cyane byo muri Frankie Shop, nk'amakoti afite imyenda ipfundikiye n'ikoti ryawo ryihariye rya Net-a-porter; imiterere ya Jacquemus, nk'amajipo n'amakoti, n'amakanzu maremare afite utuntu duto, amakanzu y'indabyo n'ay'abagore ya Doen, n'imyenda y'impeshyi n'iy'impeshyi ya Totême.
Marie Ivanoff-Smith, umuyobozi w’imideli y’abagore muri Nordstrom, yavuze ko abakiriya ba none barimo gutekereza gusubira ku kazi kandi batangiye kwishora mu myenda iboshye n’imitako myinshi y’amashati. Yagize ati: “Birakoreshwa mu buryo butandukanye. Ashobora kwambara neza cyangwa akambara neza, ashobora kwambara neza ubu, kandi ashobora gusubira mu biro burundu mu gihe cy’impeshyi.”
“Twabonye uburyo bwo kudoda bugaruka, atari ukugaruka ku kazi gusa, ahubwo no gusohoka nijoro, maze atangira kubishakisha.” Yavuze ko Nordstrom yakoranye neza na Rag & Bone na Nili Lotan, kandi yavuze ko “bafite imyenda y’ishati idahinduka”. Yavuze ko gucapa no gusiga amabara ari ingenzi cyane. Yagize ati: “Rio Farms irimo kubyica. Ntidushobora gukomeza. Ibi ni byiza cyane.”
Yavuze ko abakiriya bakunda cyane imiterere y'umubiri kandi bashobora kugaragaza uruhu rwinshi. Yagize ati: “Imibanire y'abantu irimo kuba.” Yatanze ingero z'abatanga ibicuruzwa nka Ulla Johnson bitwaye neza muri ako karere. Yanavuze ko Alice + Olivia azashyira ahagaragara imyenda myinshi yo mu birori byo gusabana. Nordstrom yakoze akazi keza n'ibigo nka Ted Baker, Ganni, Staud na Cinq à Sept. Uyu mucuruzi akora akazi keza ku myenda yo mu mpeshyi.
Yavuze ko yabonye imyenda ijyanye n'imyenda yose yambaye neza umwaka ushize kuko imeze neza cyane. Yagize ati: “Ubu tubona inzogera n'amafirimbi bigarukanye n'amabara meza. Mu byishimo n'amarangamutima, sohoka mu nzu.”
Igihe cyo kohereza: Nyakanga-08-2021