Muriyi mpeshyi n'itumba, mbere yuko abagore basubira mu biro, basa nkaho bagura imyenda bakajya gusabana. Imyambarire isanzwe, nziza, hejuru yumugore hamwe na swateri, amajipo yaka umuriro hamwe na jans igororotse, hamwe nikabutura byagurishijwe neza mumaduka acururizwamo.
Nubwo ibigo byinshi bikomeza kubwira abakozi ko bigomba gutangira kugaruka, abadandaza bavuga ko kugura imyenda yakazi atari byo umukiriya ashyira imbere.
Ahubwo, babonye ubwiyongere bwo kugura imyenda yo kwambara ako kanya-ibirori, ibirori, barbecues yinyuma, cafe zo hanze, gusangira ninshuti, nibiruhuko. Ibicapo byiza n'amabara ni ngombwa kugirango uzamure abaguzi.
Ariko, imyenda yimyenda yakazi izavugururwa vuba, kandi abadandaza bahanuye bimwe mubijyanye no kugaragara kwimyenda mishya y'ibiro mugihe cyagwa.
WWD yabajije abadandaza bakomeye kugira ngo bamenye ibijyanye no kugurisha mu bice bya none n'ibitekerezo byabo ku buryo bushya bwo kwambara ku isi.
Muri uku kwezi, umucuruzi mukuru wa Intermix, Divya Mathur, yavuze ko iyi sosiyete yagurishijwe na Gap Inc. mu kigo cy’imigabane bwite cya Altamont Capital Partners muri uku kwezi.
Yasobanuye ko kuva icyorezo cyo muri Werurwe 2020, abakiriya batigeze bagura ibintu mu mpeshyi ishize. Mathur yagize ati: "Mu myaka hafi ibiri ntabwo yigeze avugurura imyenda ye y'ibihe. [Ubu] yibanze ku mpeshyi 100%."
Ati: "Arimo gushaka imyenda yoroshye yo mu mpeshyi. Imyenda yoroshye ya poplin ashobora kwambara hamwe na siporo yo kwambara. Arashaka kandi imyenda y'ibiruhuko". Mathur yerekanye ko ibirango nka Staud, Ubwanwa bwa Veronica, Jonathan Simkhai na Zimmermann ari bimwe mu bicuruzwa bikomeye ubu bigurishwa.
Ati: "Ntabwo aribyo ashaka kugura ubu. Ati:" Ntabwo nshimishijwe no kugura ibyo nsanzwe ntunze. " Mathur yavuze ko kunanuka buri gihe ari ngombwa kuri Intermix. "Ukurikije ibigezweho muri iki gihe, mu byukuri arashaka ibyagezweho. Kuri twe, iyi ni ijipo yimyenda yo mu kibuno ikabije igenda inyura mu maguru, kandi ni verisiyo ya 90s ya denim. Turi kuri Re / done Brands nka AGoldE na AGoldE zikora neza. Kwiyambura uruhu rwa AGoldE ku byerekeranye nudushya twinshi. Gukaraba Vintage Ingaruka ni nziza cyane, kandi ifite uburyo bushimishije bwo guhirika ubutegetsi ”.
Ikabutura ni ikindi cyiciro gikunzwe. Intermix yatangiye kugurisha ikabutura ya denim muri Gashyantare kandi yagurishije amagana. Mather yagize ati: "Ubusanzwe tubona isubiranamo mu ikabutura ya denim mu karere k'amajyepfo. Twatangiye kubona uku kugaruka hagati muri Werurwe, ariko byatangiye muri Gashyantare." Yavuze ko ibyo byose ari byiza kandi ubudozi “bushyushye cyane”.
Ati: "Ariko verisiyo yabo irekuye ni ndende gato. Yumva ivunitse kandi yaciwe. Nabo bafite isuku, muremure, kandi ikibuno kimeze nk'isakoshi y'impapuro".
Ku bijyanye n'imyambaro yabo y'akazi, yavuze ko abakiriya be ahanini bari kure cyangwa bavanze mu cyi. Ati: "Barateganya gusubukura ubuzima mbere y’icyorezo mu gihe cy'izuba." Yabonye kugenda cyane mumyenda yububoshyi namashati.
“Imyambarire ye y'ubu ni ijipo nini n'ishati nziza cyangwa swater nziza.” Bimwe mubisonga bagurisha ni hejuru yabagore na Ulla Johnson na Sea New York. Ati: "Ibirango ni byiza byacapishijwe hejuru, byaba byacapwe cyangwa birambuye."
Iyo bambaye amajipo, abakiriya be bahitamo uburyo bushimishije bwo gukaraba hamwe nuburyo bukwiye, aho kuvuga ngo "Ndashaka ikariso yera." Ibyifuzo bya denim akunda ni ipantaro ndende-ipantaro igororotse.
Mathur yavuze ko agurisha inkweto za kijyambere kandi zigezweho. Ati: "Mu byukuri turabona ubwiyongere bukabije mu bucuruzi bwa sandali".
Ati: "Ubucuruzi bwacu ni bwiza. Iki ni igisubizo cyiza muri 2019. Tuzongera gutangira guteza imbere ubucuruzi bwacu. Turatanga ubucuruzi bwiza bwuzuye bwuzuye kuruta muri 2019".
Yabonye kandi kugurisha bishyushye byimyenda yibirori. Abakiriya babo ntibashaka amakanzu yumupira. Agiye kwitabira ubukwe, ibirori byo kwizihiza isabukuru y'amavuko, ibirori byo kuza-imyaka n'imihango yo gutanga impamyabumenyi. Arimo gushakisha ibicuruzwa bigoye kuruta kwambara bisanzwe kugirango abashe kuba umushyitsi mubukwe. Intermix yabonye ko Zimmermann akeneye. Mather yagize ati: "Turirata ibintu byose twazanye muri kiriya kirango."
Ati: "Abantu bafite ibikorwa muriyi mpeshyi, ariko ntibafite imyenda yo kwambara. Igipimo cyo gukira kirihuta kuruta uko twari tubyiteze". Igihe Intermix yaguze iki gihembwe muri Nzeri, batekereje ko bizatwara igihe kirekire cyo kugaruka. Yatangiye kugaruka muri Werurwe na Mata. Ati: "Twari dufite ubwoba buke, ariko twashoboye kwirukana ibicuruzwa".
Muri rusange, umunsi wohejuru wambara bingana na 50% mubucuruzi bwayo. Ati: "Ubucuruzi bwacu nyabwo bugera kuri 5% kugeza 8% by'ubucuruzi bwacu".
Yongeyeho ko ku bagore bari mu biruhuko, bazagura LoveShackFancy ya Agua Bendita na Agua, aba nyuma bakaba imyenda y'ibiruhuko.
Roopal Patel, visi perezida mukuru akaba n’umuyobozi w’imyambarire muri Saks Fifth Avenue, yagize ati: "Ubu, rwose abagore baragura. Abagore ntibambara mu buryo bwihariye kugira ngo basubire mu biro, ahubwo ni ubuzima bwabo. Bajya guhaha kugura imyenda muri resitora, cyangwa kurya ibiryo cyangwa ifunguro rya saa sita, cyangwa kwicara mu kawa yo hanze kugira ngo basangire." Yavuze ko bagura “imyenda myiza, yisanzuye, yisanzuye, ishimishije, kandi ifite amabara ashobora kwiruka no kuzamura imyumvire yabo.” Ibirangantego bizwi murwego rwiki gihe harimo Zimmermann na Tove. , Jonathan Simkhai na ALC.
Naho jeans, Patel yamye yemera ko amajipo yimpu ameze nka T-shirt yumweru. Ati: "Niba hari ikintu, arimo kwiyubakira imyenda ya denim. Arimo kureba mu rukenyerero rurerure, inzogera 70s inzogera, amaguru agororotse, gukaraba bitandukanye, gukata umukunzi. Yaba denim yera cyangwa denim yumukara, cyangwa ivi Ripfuye umwobo, hamwe na jacketi hamwe na jeans hamwe nindi myenda ihuje".
Yibwira ko denim yabaye igice cyibiryo bye byingenzi, kabone niyo yaba asohotse nijoro cyangwa guhamagara muriyi minsi. Mugihe COVID-19, abagore bambara denim, swater nziza ninkweto zisize.
Patel ati: "Ndatekereza ko abagore bazubaha ibintu bisanzwe bya denim, ariko mubyukuri ndatekereza ko abagore bazakoresha aya mahirwe kugirango bambare neza. Niba bambaye amajipo buri munsi, ntamuntu numwe wifuza kwambara amajipo. Ibiro biduha amahirwe yo kwambara imyenda myiza yacu myiza, inkweto ndende ndende n'inkweto dukunda kandi twambara neza".
Yavuze ko uko ikirere gihinduka, abakiriya ntibashaka kwambara ikoti. Ati: "Arashaka kugaragara neza, yifuza kwinezeza. Tugurisha amabara meza, tugurisha inkweto zaka. Tugurisha amazu ashimishije". Ati: "Abagore bakunda imyambarire babikoresha nk'umunsi mukuru kugira ngo bagaragaze imiterere yabo. Mu byukuri ni byiza."
Umuyobozi wa Bloomingdale y'abagore biteguye kwambara Arielle Siboni yagize ati: “Ubu, tubona abakiriya bitabira byinshi'buy ubu, bambara ibicuruzwa ', harimo no kwambara mu mpeshyi no mu biruhuko. Ati: “Kuri twe, ibi bivuze amajipo maremare yoroshye, ikabutura ya denim n'imyenda ya poplin. Koga no kwitwikira birakomeye kuri twe.”
Ati: "Ku bijyanye n'imyambarire, uburyo bwinshi bwa bohemian, crochet na poplin, hamwe na midi yacapwe idukorera neza". Imyambarire ya ALC, Bash, Maje na Sandro igurisha neza cyane. Yavuze ko uyu mukiriya yamye amubura kuko yambaraga ibyuya byinshi ndetse n imyenda myiza iyo yari murugo. Yongeyeho ati: “Ubu afite impamvu yo kugura.
Ikindi cyiciro gikomeye ni ikabutura. Ati: "Ikabutura ya denim ni nziza, cyane cyane muri AGoldE". Yavuze ati: “Abantu barashaka kuguma mu buryo busanzwe, kandi abantu benshi baracakorera mu rugo no kuri Zoom. Ntushobora kubona ibimera.” Yavuze ko ikabutura y'ubwoko bwose igurishwa; bimwe bifite uburebure burebure imbere, Bimwe ni bigufi.
Ku bijyanye n'imyenda isubira mu biro, Siboni yavuze ko yabonye umubare w'amakoti y'ikoti “byiyongera rwose, birashimishije cyane.” Yavuze ko abantu batangiye gusubira mu biro, ariko yiteze gukura mu gihe cyizuba. Ibicuruzwa byimpeshyi ya Bloomingdale bizagera mu ntangiriro za Kanama.
Imyenda yimpu iracyagurishwa, nikintu kinini mubucuruzi bwabo. Yabonye denim ihindukirira ipantaro igororotse, yatangiye kubaho mbere ya 2020. Imyenda ya mama hamwe nuburyo bwa retro biragurishwa. Ati: "TikTok ishimangira iri hinduka ku buryo bworoshye". Yabonye ko imyenda ya Miramar ya Rag & Bone yacapishijwe ecran kandi isa na jans, ariko bumva ari ipantaro ya siporo.
Ibirango bya Denim bitwaye neza harimo Mama, AGoldE na AG. Paige Mayslie yagiye agurisha ipantaro yo kwiruka mumabara atandukanye.
Mu gice cyo hejuru, kubera ko hepfo aribisanzwe, T-shati yamye ikomeye. Byongeye kandi, amashati ya bohemian arekuye, amashati ya prairie, nishati ifite imishino idoze hamwe nijisho nabyo birakunzwe cyane.
Siboni yavuze ko bagurisha kandi imyenda myinshi ishimishije kandi yaka nimugoroba, imyenda yera kubageni no kwambara nimugoroba nziza ya prom. Mubukwe bwimpeshyi, imyenda imwe ya Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua na Nookie irakwiriye cyane kubashyitsi. Yavuze ko LoveShackFancy rwose yambaye imyenda iremereye, "biratangaje cyane." Bafite kandi imyambaro myinshi yibiruhuko bya bohemian hamwe n imyenda ishobora kwambarwa mugukwe.
Siboni yagaragaje ko ubucuruzi bwo kwiyandikisha bw’umucuruzi bukomeye cyane, ibyo bikaba byerekana ko abashakanye barimo gusobanura amatariki y’ubukwe bwabo kandi hakaba hakenewe imyenda y’abashyitsi n’umugeni.
Yumi Shin, umucuruzi mukuru wa Bergdorf Goodman, yavuze ko mu mwaka ushize, abakiriya babo bahindutse, bagura ibicuruzwa bidasanzwe bigaragara kuri terefone Zoom no gutandukana kwabo.
Shen yagize ati: "Mugihe dusubiye mu buzima busanzwe, twumva dufite icyizere. Guhaha rwose ni umunezero mushya. Ntabwo ari ugusubira mu biro gusa, ahubwo no mu gihe kirekire cyari gitegerejwe guhura n'umuryango n'inshuti batekereza kuri gahunda z'ingendo. Igomba kuba ifite icyizere".
Vuba aha, babonye inyungu muri silhouettes yurukundo, harimo amaboko yuzuye cyangwa ibisobanuro birambuye. Yavuze ko Ulla Johnson yitwaye neza. Shin yagize ati: "Ni ikirango gikomeye kandi aganira n'abakiriya benshi batandukanye." Yongeyeho ko ibicuruzwa byose biranga bigurishwa neza. Ati: "Ndagira ngo mbabwire ko we [Johnson] ari gihamya y'icyorezo. Tugurisha amajipo maremare, amajipo maremare, kandi dutangiye kubona amajipo magufi. Azwi cyane ku bicapo bye, kandi tunagurisha imyenda ye ikomeye y'amabara.
Imyambarire rimwe na rimwe ni ikindi cyiciro gikunzwe. Shin yagize ati: "Mu byukuri turabona imyenda yongeye kwamamara. Mugihe abakiriya bacu batangiye kwitegura ibihe nk'ubukwe, ibirori byo gutanga impamyabumenyi, ndetse no guhura n'inshuti n'umuryango, tubona imyenda igurishwa hirya no hino kuva mubihe bisanzwe kugeza ibihe byinshi, ndetse n'amakanzu y'abageni nayo yongeye kumenyekana."
Ku bijyanye na jeans yambaye uruhu, yagize ati: "Imyenda yuruhu izahora igomba kuba igomba kwambara imyenda yo kwambara, ariko dukunda ibicuruzwa bishya tubona. Denim ikwiye, ipantaro y'amaguru igororotse hamwe n'amapantaro maremare maremare yamamaye mu myaka ya za 90. Turabikunda cyane." Yavuze ko ikirango cyihariye, Biracyaza, giherereye i Brooklyn, gitanga uduce duto duto, dushushanyije intoki kandi dusize, kandi dukora akazi keza. Byongeye kandi, Totême yitwaye neza, ati: "Natwe tugurisha denim yera." Totême ifite imyenda myinshi yimyenda n'imyenda, nibisanzwe.
Tumubajije ku myambaro mishya iyo abaguzi bagarutse ku biro, yagize ati: "Ndatekereza rwose ko imyambarire mishya izaruhuka kandi yoroheje. Ihumure riracyari ingenzi, ariko ndatekereza ko rizahinduka mu buryo bwo kwinezeza bwa buri munsi. Twabonye imyenda myinshi yo kwambara imyenda ya chic dukunda." Yavuze ko mbere yo kugwa, batangije ikirango cyihariye cyo kuboha, Lisa Yang, kikaba ahanini kijyanye no guhuza imyenda. Iherereye i Stockholm kandi ikoresha cashmere karemano. Ati: "Nibyiza cyane kandi bikora neza, kandi turizera ko bizakomeza kwitwara neza. Birahumuriza ariko ni byiza."
Yongeyeho ko arimo kureba imikorere ya jacketi, ariko aruhutse. Yavuze ko guhuza no kudoda bizaba urufunguzo. Ati: "Abagore bazashaka gufata imyenda yabo mu rugo bajya ku biro kugira ngo bahure n'inshuti; bigomba kuba byinshi kandi bikamubera byiza. Ibi bizahinduka imyambarire mishya".
Libby Page, Umuyobozi mukuru ushinzwe kwamamaza muri Net-a-porter, yagize ati: "Mu gihe abakiriya bacu bategerezanyije amatsiko gusubira ku biro, turabona impinduka ziva mu myambarire isanzwe ikajya mu buryo bugezweho. Ku bijyanye n'ibigezweho, tubona kuva Chloé, Zimmermann na Isabel. Ibicapo bya Marant hamwe n'indabyo ku myenda y'abagore byiyongereye-kandi ni byiza cyane mu minsi mikuru y'imyenda yo mu mpeshyi, kandi birakwiriye mu minsi mikuru y'akazi. ku ya 21 Kamena The Heat 'ishimangira ikirere gishyushye no kwambara kubera gusubira ku kazi. ”
Yavuze ko ku bijyanye no kwerekana denim, babona imyenda irekuye, nini nini ndetse no kwiyongera kwa ballon, cyane cyane umwaka ushize, kubera ko abakiriya babo bashaka ihumure mu myenda ye yose. Yavuze ko imyenda isanzwe ya jeans yahindutse uburyo butandukanye mu myambaro, kandi ikirango cyabo cyahuje n'iki kibazo hiyongeraho ubu buryo mu cyegeranyo cyacyo.
Abajijwe niba inkweto ari zo nzira ya mbere, yavuze ko Net-a-porter yazanye amajwi mashya yera ndetse na retro imiterere ndetse n’imisusire mu mpeshyi, nka Loewe na Maison Margiela x Reebok.
Ku bijyanye n'ibyo ategereje ku myambaro mishya y'ibiro ndetse n'imyambarire mishya yo kwambara mu mibereho, Page yagize ati: "Amabara meza atera umunezero ni yo ngingo nyamukuru y'impeshyi. Icyegeranyo cyacu cya Dries Van Noten giheruka gukusanya capsule gikubiyemo kutabogama binyuze mu myambarire yoroheje n'imyenda. hamwe na denim kugirango habeho isura nziza kandi ihinduka neza mu birori byo kurya ”.
Ibintu bizwi cyane kuri Net-a-porter harimo ibintu bizwi cyane biva mu iduka rya Frankie, nka jacketi zipfundikishijwe amakoti hamwe na koti ya siporo yihariye ya Net-a-porter; Ibishushanyo bya Jacquemus, nk'ibihingwa byo hejuru n'amajipo, hamwe n'imyambaro miremire irimo ibisobanuro bitesha umutwe, imyenda y'indabyo ya Doen n'iy'igitsina gore, hamwe na imyenda ya Totême yo mu mpeshyi no mu mpeshyi.
Umuyobozi ushinzwe imideli y'abagore ba Nordstrom, Marie Ivanoff-Smith, yavuze ko abakiriya b'iki gihe batekereza gusubira ku kazi kandi ko batangiye kwishora mu myenda iboshywe ndetse n'imyenda myinshi y'ishati. Ati: "Biratandukanye. Arashobora kwambara cyangwa kwambara, arashobora kwambara ubu, kandi ashobora gusubira mu biro burundu.
Ati: "Twabonye kugaruka k'ububoshyi, atari ugusubira ku kazi gusa, ahubwo twasohokaga nijoro, maze atangira kubishakisha." Yavuze ko Nordstrom yakoranye neza na Rag & Bone na Nili Lotan, akavuga ko “bafite imyenda y'ishati Impeccable”. Yavuze ko gucapa n'amabara ari ngombwa. Ati: "Rio Farms irayica. Ntidushobora gukomeza. Ibi ni byiza".
Yavuze ko abakiriya bakunda cyane imiterere yumubiri kandi bashobora kwerekana uruhu rwinshi. Ati: “Ibibazo by'imibereho biraba.” Yatanze ingero z'abatanga isoko nka Ulla Johnson bitwaye neza mu karere. Yagaragaje kandi ko Alice + Olivia azashyira ahagaragara imyenda myinshi mu bihe byo gusabana. Nordstrom yakoze akazi keza hamwe nibirango nka Ted Baker, Ganni, Staud na Cinq à Nzeri Uyu mucuruzi akora akazi keza k'imyenda yo mu cyi.
Yavuze ko yabonye imyenda yimikino yose yakozwe neza umwaka ushize kuko ari nziza cyane. Ati: "Ubu turabona inzogera n'ifirimbi bigaruka bifite ibyapa byiza. Nibyishimo n'amarangamutima, sohoka mu nzu".
Igihe cyo kohereza: Nyakanga-08-2021