Nubwo abahanga mu myambarire y'abagabo bangana iki basomye umuhango wa nyuma w'iyi koti nyuma y'icyorezo, abagabo basa n'aho bakeneye cyane iyi koti ifite ibice bibiri. Ariko, kimwe n'ibindi byinshi, ikoti yo mu mpeshyi irimo guhindurwa ifite imiterere ya seersucker isanzwe, kandi amaherezo ikamenya gukunda imikufi y'ikoti, kandi niba ushidikanya, ushobora no kwambara inkweto zoroshye.
Nkunda amakoti, ariko ndayambara kuko antera ibyishimo, atari uko umwuga wanjye umpatiye kubikora, bityo nkayambara mu buryo budasanzwe. Muri iki gihe, biragoye gutekereza ko hari akazi kenshi cyane ko kwambara ikositimu: abashoferi ba Mercedes S-Class na BMW 7 Series, abarinzi bahenze bafite imigozi ipfundikiye ku ikoti ryabo, abavoka, abakora ikizamini cy'akazi, ndetse n'abanyapolitiki. Cyane cyane abanyapolitiki bambaraga amakoti kandi bakina imbyino z'ubwoba, nk'uko bigaragara kuri G7; intego yasaga nkaho ari ukugira ngo umuntu agere ku miterere idasanzwe kandi aryoherwe n'ubwiza.
Ariko kuri twe tudafungura imiryango y’abanyacyubahiro cyangwa ngo twitabire inama mpuzamahanga, imyenda yo mu mpeshyi ni umwanya wo kuruhuka no kwiyibutsa ko twasubira mu buryo bworoheje. Tugomba gutekereza ku byo twambara mu birori byo mu busitani, mu bitaramo bya opera, mu nama z’amarushanwa, mu mikino ya tennis, no mu mafunguro ya saa sita yo hanze (inama y'ingirakamaro: niba batanga ikintu gihanitse kurusha burgers na byeri y’ibanga, nyamuneka reka imyenda migufi y’ibikoresho ifite ibara rya sima…bitekerezeho, uyijugunye gusa).
Imyitwarire y'abagabo b'Abongereza ku bijyanye n'impeshyi izwiho kuba ihindagurika rimwe na rimwe isa n'aho ari ibiri, ariko hari inzira ikoreshwa hagati ya Charybdis wambaye amakabutura magufi na Scylla wambaye amakanzu yo mu mpeshyi, abagabo bakomeye bo muri Del Monte na Sandhill. Intsinzi akenshi iba mu guhitamo imyenda ikwiye.
Mu myaka mike ishize, seersucker yakuyeho imirongo yayo y'ubururu cyangwa umutuku, maze iva mu gipupe nk'ikinyugunyugu gifite amabara menshi. “Nakoze imyenda myinshi ya seersucker muri Wimbledon na Goodwood muri uyu mwaka kurusha mu myaka 10 ishize. Iri kuvugurura nyabyo, bitewe n'ibara,” ibi byavuzwe na Terry Haste wo muri Kent & Haste, Savile Street, ubu Seersucker ifite amabara menshi iramwereka Ken Kesey mu mutima we. “Hari ubururu n'icyatsi kibisi, ubururu n'izahabu, ubururu n'umukara, hamwe n'imirongo ya grid n'iy'impande zombi.”
Umwe mu bayobozi ba seersucker b’abahanga ni Cacciopoli, ucuruza imyenda i Naples, ariko seersucker ntabwo itanga ibara gusa, ahubwo inakuraho impungenge ku mikurire: imikurire ni yo ngingo; mu by’ukuri, iba yaramaze gukururwa, iruhutse mbere. Yego, ikwiriye gukoreshwa mu mpeshyi.
Michael Hill wo muri Drake yavuze ko iyi myumvire yoroshye ari nayo mpamvu yatumye imyenda y'ibirahure ikunzwe muri uyu mwaka. Yagize ati: "Icyatubereye cyane ni ikoti ryacu ry'ibirahure. Nta kintu na kimwe gishya ku mabara yatsinze: ibara ry'umukara, irya kaki, irya hazel n'itabi." Ariko itandukaniro ni uko yibanze ku cyo yise. Mu myambarire y'"ikoti ry'umukino", yayitandukanije n'umudozi wemewe.
“Ni ukwihambira ku mwenda. Ntugashake kuba uw’agaciro cyane, kandi kuba ushobora kuwushyira mu mashini imesa bifasha gutuma imyenda irushaho kuba myiza. Abagabo bashaka kwambara mu buryo butandukanye no gukata ishati ya polo cyangwa T-shirt kugira ngo bamene amakoti n’ipantaro. Muri iki gihe cy’impeshyi, tubona uburyo bwinshi bwo kwambara imyenda yoroshye ihuza imyenda yo mu rwego rwo hejuru n’imyambarire isanzwe, ingofero nziza za kera za baseball n’amashuka yoroshye yo munsi hamwe n’amakoti. Bikore neza, ni dynamite.”
Impamvu imwe yo kongera gutekereza kuri iyi koti ni uko Drake atagurisha ikote ry'umukino nk'ikoti, ahubwo nk'ikoti ritandukanye rishobora kwambarwa nk'ikoti. Iyi mitekerereze isa n'aho ivuguruza iy'ubwenge, igurisha imyenda isanzwe yo mu mpeshyi nk'ibice bibiri bihuye ukwabyo, inagira uruhare muri Connolly. Itanga verisiyo idacika intege, umuyobozi wa Connolly Isabel Ettedgui avuga ko ari "seersucker ya tekiniki."
Ettedgui yagize ati: “Tuzigurisha nk'amakoti n'amapantalo yo mu rukenyerero akozwe mu buryo bwa elastic. Abagabo barabikunda kuko batekereza ko bashobora kuzigura ukwazo, nubwo batazigura. Twazigurishije ku bantu bafite imyaka 23 n'abafite imyaka 73 bakunda amabara asanzwe kandi batambara amasogisi.”
Zegna afite inkuru nk'iyo. Umuyobozi w'ubuhanzi Alessandro Sartori yavuze ko amakoti asanzwe akunzwe n'abakiriya babigenewe kandi bakozwe ku giti cyabo, ati: “Bambara amakoti kugira ngo bishimishe.” . Kuba biteguye kwambara ni ikindi kibazo. Yagize ati: “Bagura ibintu ku giti cyabo ku mushushanyi mukuru w'imyenda, bagahitamo ikoti cyangwa akazi, kandi bagakora ikoti rijyanye n'iry'imbere n'iry'epfo.” Igitambaro gikozwe muri silk igonze na cashmere, kandi uruvange rw'amakoti, ipamba n'amakoti y'ipamba rukoresha amabara mashya ya pastel.
Umudozi w’icyamamare wa Neapolitan Rubinacci na we yahinduye imiterere y’uburanga busanzwe. Mariano Rubinacci yagize ati: “Pariki ya Safari ni yo yegukanye intsinzi muri iki gihe cy’impeshyi kuko ni nziza kandi yoroshye.” “Iraruhura kuko imeze nk’ishati idafite igitambaro, ariko yambarwa nk’ikoti, bityo ishobora kuba iy’umudendezo, kandi imifuka yayo yose ni ingirakamaro.”
Mu gihe cyo kwambara imyenda ya kera, ndafuhira cyane ikoti rya Madras ry'ipamba umuhungu wanjye muto yaguze ku isoko rya Portobello: imyenda ifite imbaraga za Proust igaragaza ishusho ya Amerika mu gihe cya Eisenhower. Uko sheki ikomeye niko irushaho kuba nziza. ... Ariko iyo ipfutse ipantaro isanzwe.
Ndetse na Huntsman wo mu ngoro nini ya Savile Street yabonye ko hari ikintu gitandukanye. Umuyobozi w’ubuhanzi Campbell Carey yagize ati: “Mbere ya Covid, abantu bari biteguye kwambara amakoti y’amakoti n’amapantaro meza mu nama.” “Muri iyi mpeshyi, ntabwo dushobora kugurisha amakoti y’amakoti afunze neza. Imiterere yayo isobanura ko ishobora guhindurwa. Iza mu mabara atandukanye kugira ngo ibe ikoreshwa cyane n’uruvange rwawe, kandi ushobora kuyikuramo kugira ngo umwuka winjire kandi usohoke.” Carey yanatanze icyo yise “uduce two mu mpera z’icyumweru.” Iracyari mu ishusho ya Huntsman; ipfundo rirerire ry’amaboko, akabuto, n’ikibuno, “ariko umurongo w’urutugu woroshye gato, tworoheje imiterere y’ikoti, kandi imiterere y’imbere ni imwe, isimbura ubwoya bw’ifarashi [bukomeye].”
Tuvuze ku mashati, igitekerezo ni ukugutera kugaragara nk'uwambaye ishati ifunguye, aho kuba uvuye mu mihango yo gushyingura abamafia maze ukihutira gupfundura karuvati yawe no gukuraho imishumi y'ishati yawe. Inama yanjye ni ukwambara ishati y'ubugeni ipfundikiye ibifungo nka Bel wo muri Barcelona. Imiterere yayo ntabwo ifite umukandara wo ku ijosi n'ububuto bwo hejuru, ariko imbere isa neza, kandi ijosi rikomeza kuzunguruka bitewe n'utubuto turi ku ijosi.
Uhereye aho, ushobora guhitamo kandi imyenda y'ibiruhuko ifunguye, iyo kola ni ubwoko bw'ishati ifite ikola ya Lido yamamajwe n'umunyamideli w'imyenda y'abagabo Scott Fraser Simpson. Niba ukunda kwinezeza, reba konti ya Instagram ya Wei Koh, washinze Rake Tailored. Yamaze igihe afungiye muri Singapuru, ahuza amakoti ye menshi n'amashati yo muri Hawaii maze afata amashusho.
Iri serukiramuco rizagaruka imbonankubone ku rutonde rw'abavuga rikijyana n'insanganyamatsiko zizabera muri Kenwood House (no kuri interineti) ku ya 4 Nzeri. Kwinjira muri ibi byose bizaba ari ukwiyubaka no kongera gutekereza ku isi nyuma y'icyorezo. Kugira ngo ufate amatike, sura hano.
Ariko no muri iki gihe cyo kudoda imyenda mu buryo butuje, hari igihe imyenda yo muri Hawaii ishobora gufatwa nk'aho ari de trop kandi abantu bashobora gusanga byoroshye (cyangwa bitagaragara cyane) kwambara karuvati; kuri ibi, karuvati z'ubudodo ni amahitamo meza. Ni umugenzi mwiza wo mu rugendo, kuko iyo uyihinduye umupira ugashyirwa mu mfuruka y'isakoshi, ntabwo izahinduka iminkanyari cyangwa ngo ihinduke. Nubwo isa n'aho ivuguruzanya, isa n'aho iruhutse cyane - niba utabyemera, nyamuneka shyira kuri Google ifoto ya David Hockney na karuvati iboshye, ashobora gukoresha n'ipantaro irangi n'amaboko azingiye.
Bizaba bishimishije kureba niba n'amakaruvati akozwe mu budodo ashobora kurokoka ibyo Huntsman yahanuye. Uku gutandukana kuracyari kure. Niba muri iyi mpeshyi ari nko kwambara imyenda y'amabara maremare, ubu yerekeje ibitekerezo bye ku kindi gice cy'ikoti ry'ibice bibiri, kandi ahumekewe n'ubwoko butandukanye bw'amahitamo ya seersucker, arimo gukora ku cyo yise "amakabutura magufi agezweho". "Ni umwaka utaha." Yagize ati: "Yego, ariko ntimwibeshye, ikoti ry'ikote n'amakabutura magufi birahari."
Igihe cyo kohereza: 13 Nzeri 2021