Polyester na nylon ni byo bikoresho bikoreshwa cyane mu nganda z'imideli, cyane cyane mu bijyanye n'imyenda ya siporo. Ariko, ni bimwe mu bikoresho bibi cyane mu bijyanye n'ikiguzi cy'ibidukikije. Ese ikoranabuhanga ryo kongeramo ibikoresho rishobora gukemura iki kibazo?
Ikirango cya Definite Articles cyashinzwe na Aaron Sanandres, umwe mu bashinze akaba n'umuyobozi mukuru wa sosiyete y'amashati ya Untuckit. Cyatangijwe mu kwezi gushize gifite intego: gukora ikusanyirizo ry'imyenda ya siporo irambye uhereye ku masogisi. Imyenda y'amasogisi igizwe na 51% bya nylon irambye, 23% bya BCI ipamba, 23% bya polyester irambye na 3% bya spandex. Gikozwe mu nyongeramusaruro za Ciclo granular, bitanga imiterere idasanzwe: umuvuduko wazo wo kwangirika ni karemano nk'uko bisanzwe. Ibikoresho ni bimwe mu mazi yo mu nyanja, mu nganda zitunganya amazi yanduye no mu myanda, no mu nganda nk'ubwoya.
Mu gihe cy’icyorezo, uwashinze iyi sosiyete yabonye ko yambaye amasogisi ya siporo ku muvuduko utangaje. Dukurikije ubunararibonye bwe muri Untuckit, iyi sosiyete yizihije imyaka icumi iri ku isoko mu kwezi gushize maze Sanandres yimurirwa ku kindi kirango gifite ingenzi mu kubungabunga ibidukikije. Yagize ati: “Niba utekereje ku bijyanye n’ibidukikije, imiterere ya karuboni ni kimwe mu bigize ibyo, ariko ihumana ry’ibidukikije ni ikindi gice.” Mu mateka, imyenda y’imikorere myiza yari mibi cyane ku bidukikije bitewe n’amazi ya pulasitiki na microplastics mu mazi iyo umuntu amesa imyenda. Byongeye kandi, mu gihe kirekire, bizatwara imyaka amagana kugira ngo polyester na nylon bivune.”
Imwe mu mpamvu nyamukuru zituma pulasitiki idashobora kwangirika ku gipimo kimwe n’imigozi karemano ni uko idafite imiterere imwe ya molekile ifunguye. Ariko, hamwe n’inyongera za Ciclo, ibice byinshi bishobora kwangirika bivuka mu miterere ya pulasitiki. Udukoko tubaho mu buryo busanzwe muri ibi bihe byavuzwe haruguru dushobora kwangirika imigozi, kimwe n’imigozi karemano. Nkuko byavuzwe ku rubuga rwayo, Definite Articles yasabye icyemezo cya B Corp. Igamije kubungabunga umusaruro wo mu gace binyuze mu ruhererekane rw’ibicuruzwa ruherereye gusa muri Amerika ya Ruguru no gukoresha amategeko agenga imikorere y’abatanga poromosiyo.
Andrea Ferris, umwe mu bashinze ikigo cy’inyongeramusaruro za pulasitiki cyitwa Ciclo, amaze imyaka 10 akora kuri ubu buryo. “Mikorobe ziba ahantu pulasitiki ari yo ihumanya ikirere zizakururwa kuko ari isoko y’ibiribwa. Zishobora kubaka ibintu bikora ku bikoresho no kubora burundu ibikoresho. Iyo mvuze kubora, icyo nshaka kuvuga ni kubora; zishobora gusenya imiterere ya molekile ya polyester, hanyuma zigasya molekile hanyuma zigahindura imiterere y’ibikoresho.”
Insinga zikoze mu buryo bwa siporo ni kimwe mu bibazo bikomeye inganda zigerageza gukemura ingaruka zabyo ku bidukikije. Nk’uko raporo yavuye muri Sustainable Solutions Accelerator Changing Markets yo muri Nyakanga 2021 ibigaragaza, biragoye cyane ku bigo by’imideli kwikuramo kwishingikiriza ku nsinga zikoze mu buryo bwa siporo. Raporo isuzuma ubwoko butandukanye bw’ibirango, kuva kuri Gucci kugeza ku bigo by’imideli bigezweho nka Zalando na Forever 21. Ku bijyanye n’imyenda ya siporo, ibigo byinshi by’imideli byasesenguwe muri raporo—harimo Adidas, ASICS, Nike, na Reebok—byatangaje ko ibyinshi mu byo bakusanya bishingiye ku nganda zikoze mu buryo bwa siporo. Raporo ivuga ko “batagaragaje ko bateganya kugabanya iki kibazo.” Ariko, kuba ibintu bigezweho ndetse no kwemerera guhanga udushya muri iki gihe cy’icyorezo bishobora gutuma isoko ry’imyenda ya siporo rishora imari mu gukemura ibibazo byayo bya siporo.
Ciclo yigeze gukorana n'ibirango birimo Cone Denim, ikirango gakondo cya denim, kandi irimo gukora cyane kugira ngo yagure isoko ry'imyenda. Ariko, nubwo ibizamini bya siyansi byatanzwe ku rubuga rwayo, iterambere ryagenze buhoro. Ferris yagize ati: “Twatangije Ciclo mu nganda z'imyenda vuba aha mu mpeshyi ya 2017.” Niba utekereza ko n'ikoranabuhanga ryagenzuwe neza rifata imyaka myinshi kugira ngo rishyirwe mu bikorwa mu ruhererekane rw'ibicuruzwa, ntibitangaje ko bifata igihe kirekire. Nubwo ari ikoranabuhanga rizwi, buri wese aranyuzwe, ariko bizatwara imyaka myinshi kugira ngo umuntu yinjire mu ruhererekane rw'ibicuruzwa.” Byongeye kandi, inyongeramusaruro zishobora gutumizwa gusa mu ntangiriro z'uruhererekane rw'ibicuruzwa, ibyo bikaba bigoye gukoresha ku rwego runini.
Ariko, hari intambwe yatewe binyuze mu gukusanya ibirango birimo Definite Articles. Ku ruhande rwayo, Definite Articles izagura ibikoresho byayo byo kwambara mu mwaka utaha. Muri raporo ya Synthetics Anonymous, ikigo cy’imyenda ya siporo Puma cyavuze ko kizi ko ibikoresho bya siporo bigira kimwe cya kabiri cy’ibikoresho byose by’imyenda. Gikora ku buryo buhoro buhoro kugira ngo kigabanye urugero rwa polyester gikoresha, bigaragaza ko imyenda ya siporo ishobora kugabanya kwishingikiriza ku bikoresho bya siporo. Ibi bishobora gutuma habaho impinduka mu nganda.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Ukuboza-30-2021