Zhizha rino nemumatsutso, vakadzi vasati vadzokera kuhofisi, vanoita sevari kutenga mbatya vobuda kunoshamwaridzana zvakare. Madhirezi emazuva ese, matopu akanaka echikadzi nemajuzi, majini ane flared uye majini akatsetseka, uye mashoti mapfupi zvave kutengeswa zvakanaka muzvitoro.
Kunyange hazvo makambani mazhinji achiramba achiudza vashandi kuti vanofanira kutanga kudzoka, vatengesi vanoti kutenga mbatya dzebasa hakusi iko kunonyanya kukosheswa nemutengi.
Asi, vakaona kuwedzera kwekutenga mbatya dzekupfeka ipapo ipapo - kumapati, mhemberero, nzvimbo dzekubikira nyama mudzimba, macafe ekunze, kudya kwemanheru neshamwari, uye mazororo. Mifananidzo yakajeka nemavara zvakakosha kuti vatengi vawedzere mafungiro avo.
Zvisinei, mawadhiropu avo ebasa achagadziriswa munguva pfupi iri kutevera, uye vatengesi vakatofanotaura nezvekuonekwa kwemayunifomu matsva ehofisi mumatsutso.
WWD yakabvunzurudza vatengesi vakuru kuti vazive nezvekutengesa munzvimbo dzemazuva ano uye maonero avo pamusoro penzira itsva yekupfeka zvinoenderana nenyika.
"Kana tichitaura nezvebhizinesi redu, hatina kumuona achitenga. Akanyanya kutarisa pawadhiropu yake chaiyo, wadhiropu yake yezhizha. Hatina kuona kudiwa kwembatya dzebasa dzechinyakare kuchikwira," mukuru wevatengesi veIntermix Divya Mathur Said akati kambani iyi yakatengeswa neGap Inc. kukambani yeAltamont Capital Partners mwedzi uno.
Akatsanangura kuti kubva padenda raKurume 2020, vatengi havana kumbotenga chero chinhu muchirimo chapfuura. "Haana kugadzirisa zvipfeko zvake zvemwaka kwemakore anoda kusvika maviri. [Iye zvino] anga achinyanya kutarisa pachirimo," akadaro akanyanya kutarisa pakusiya zvinhu zvake, kudzokera kunyika uye kuda mbatya, akadaro Mathur.
"Ari kutsvaga dhirezi rezhizha rakareruka. Dhirezi repoplin rakareruka raanogona kupfeka neshangu dzemabhurugwa. Ari kutsvagawo hembe dzezororo," akadaro. Mathur akataura kuti makambani akadai saStaud, Veronica Beard, Jonathan Simkhai naZimmermann ndemamwe emakambani makuru ari kutengeswa pari zvino.
“Izvi hazvisirizvo zvaari kuda kutenga izvozvi. Akati, ‘Handifariri kutenga zvandinazvo kare,’” akadaro. Mathur akati kutetepa kwakakosha kuIntermix. “Panyaya yezviri kufarirwa pari zvino, ari kutsvaga chazvino. Kwatiri, iyi ibhurugwa remabhurugwa rine chiuno chakareba rinofamba zvakananga mumakumbo, uye bhurugwa remabhurugwa rema90s rakareruka zvishoma. Tiri paRe/done Brands dzakadai seAGoldE neAGoldE dziri kuita zvakanaka. Denim yeAGoldE yagara iri mutengesi anoshamisa nekuda kwezvinhu zvayo zvitsva zvinonakidza. Mabhurugwa eRe/done akatetepa ari kupisa. Pamusoro pezvo, Moussy Vintage's wash The effect yakanaka kwazvo, uye ine mapatani anonakidza ekupandukira,” akadaro.
Mabhurugwa mapfupi ndeimwe mhando yakakurumbira. Intermix yakatanga kutengesa mabhurugwa mapfupi edenim muna Kukadzi uye yakatengesa mazana awo. "Tinowanzoona mabhurugwa mapfupi edenim achikwira munzvimbo yekumaodzanyemba. Takatanga kuona mabhurugwa aya achikwira pakati paKurume, asi akatanga muna Kukadzi," akadaro Mather. Akati zvese izvi ndezvekuti zvikwane uye kusona "kunopisa kwazvo".
"Asi mhando yavo yakasununguka yakati rebei zvishoma. Inonzwa sekunge yakatyoka uye yakachekwa. Yakachenawo, yakareba, uye chiuno chakaita sebhegi repepa," akadaro.
Nezvemawodhiropu avo ebasa, akati vatengi vake vanowanzova kure kana kuti vakasanganiswa muzhizha. "Vanoronga kutangazve hupenyu hwavo zvizere denda risati rasvika mumatsutso." Akaona kufamba kwakawanda mumachira akarukwa uye mashati akarukwa.
“Yunifomu yake yazvino ijini rakanaka uye shati yakanaka kana juzi rakanaka.” Mamwe ematop avanotengesera itop dzevakadzi dzakagadzirwa naUlla Johnson naSea New York. “Mabrand aya matop akarukwa akanaka kwazvo, angave akadhindwa kana kuti akarukwa, akadaro.
Pavanopfeka majini, vatengi vake vanosarudza nzira dzinonakidza dzekuwacha nadzo uye masitayera ekukwana, pane kuti vati “Ndinoda majini machena.” Mabhurugwa aanofarira edhinim ibhurugwa rine chiuno chakareba uye makumbo akatwasuka.
Mathur akati achiri kutengesa shangu dzemhando yepamusoro uye dzemafashoni. "Tiri kuona kuwedzera kukuru mubhizinesi remasandals," akadaro.
"Bhizinesi redu rakanaka. Iyi imhinduro yakanaka kuna 2019. Tichatanga kukudziridza bhizinesi redu zvakare. Tiri kupa bhizinesi remitengo yakakwana riri nani pane ra2019," akadaro.
Akaonawo kutengeswa kwakanyanya kwembatya dzezviitiko. Vatengi vavo havasi kutsvaga magown ebhora. Ari kuenda kumuchato, mapati ekuzvarwa, mhemberero dzekukura uye mhemberero dzekupedza kudzidza. Ari kutsvaga zvigadzirwa zvepamusoro-soro kupfuura zvipfeko zvemazuva ese kuitira kuti ave muenzi pamuchato. Intermix akaona kudiwa kwaZimmermann. "Tiri kuzvirumbidza nezvese zvatakauya nazvo kubva kukambani iyoyo," akadaro Mather.
"Vanhu vane mabasa ezhizha rino, asi havana mbatya dzekupfeka. Mwero wekupora uri kukurumidza kupfuura zvataitarisira," akadaro. Intermix payakatenga mwaka uno munaGunyana, vakafunga kuti zvaizotora nguva yakareba kuti idzoke. Yakatanga kudzoka munaKurume naKubvumbi. "Takanga tichitya zvishoma ikoko, asi takakwanisa kutsvaga chigadzirwa ichi," akadaro.
Kazhinji, zvipfeko zvemazuva ano zvinodhura zvinoita 50% yebhizinesi rayo. "Bhizinesi redu rechokwadi re'zviitiko' rinoita 5% kusvika 8% yebhizinesi redu," akadaro.
Akawedzera kuti kuvakadzi vari pazororo, vaizotenga LoveShackFancy naAgua yaAgua Bendita, yekupedzisira iri mbatya dzepazororo chaidzo.
Roopal Patel, mutevedzeri wemutungamiri mukuru uye mutungamiriri wemafashoni kuSaks Fifth Avenue, akati: “Iye zvino, vakadzi vari kutenga zvinhu. Vakadzi havapfeki zvekudzokera kuhofisi, asi zvehupenyu hwavo hwese. Vanoenda kunotenga mbatya kumaresitorendi, kana kudya brunch kana kudya kwemasikati, kana kugara mucafe yekunze kwekudya kwemanheru.” Akati vari kutenga “madhirezi akanaka, akasununguka, akasununguka, ane hupenyu, uye ane mavara anogona kumhanya-mhanya uye kuvandudza mafungiro avo.” Mabhurandi anozivikanwa mundima yemazuva ano anosanganisira Zimmermann naTove. , Jonathan Simkhai naALC.
Kana ari majini, Patel agara achitenda kuti majini matete akafanana neT-shirt chena. "Kana paine chimwe chinhu, ari kuzvivakira wardrobe yake yedenim. Ari kutarisa chiuno chakareba, mabhero ekuma70s, makumbo akatwasuka, mawachi akasiyana, macheke eboyfriend. Ingava denim chena kana denim nhema, kana mabvi. Maburi akatsemuka, uye majaketi akafanana nejini nezvimwe zvipfeko zvakafanana," akadaro.
Anofunga kuti denim yave chikamu chechikafu chake chikuru, zvisinei nekuti anobuda husiku here kana kuti anofona mazuva ano. Munguva yeCOVID-19, vakadzi vanopfeka denim, majuzi akanaka uye shangu dzakakwenenzverwa.
"Ini ndinofunga kuti vakadzi vacharemekedza zvinhu zvisina basa zvemadhinimu, asi kutaura chokwadi ndinofunga kuti vakadzi vachashandisa mukana uyu kupfeka zvakanaka. Kana vakapfeka majini zuva nezuva, hapana anoda kupfeka majini. Hofisi inotipa mukana wekupfeka mbatya dzedu dzakanaka, shangu dzedu refu refu neshangu dzatinoda uye kupfeka zvakanaka," akadaro Patel.
Akati sezvo mamiriro ekunze achichinja, vatengi havadi kupfeka majaketi. "Anoda kutaridzika zvakanaka, anoda kunakidzwa. Tinotengesa mavara anofadza, tinotengesa shangu dzinopenya. Tiri kutengesa dzimba dzinofadza," akadaro. "Vakadzi vanoda mafashoni vanoshandisa izvi semhemberero yekuratidza maitiro avo. Zvinoda kuti vanzwe zvakanaka," akadaro.
Mukuru weBloomingdale's Women's vakagadzirira kupfeka Arielle Siboni akati: “Iye zvino, tinoona vatengi vachipindura kune zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvekuti ‘tenga izvozvi, pfeka izvozvi’,” zvinosanganisira zvipfeko zvezhizha nezvezororo. “Kwatiri, izvi zvinoreva masiketi marefu akawanda, mabhurugwa mapfupi edenim nemadhirezi epoplin. Kushambira nekuvhara zvipfeko zvine simba kwazvo kwatiri.”
"Panyaya yemadhirezi, mamwe madhirezi eBohemian, crochet nepoplin, uye midi yakadhindwa zvinoshanda zvakanaka kwatiri," akadaro. Madhirezi eALC, Bash, Maje naSandro anotengeswa zvakanaka. Akati mutengi uyu agara achimusuwa nekuti aipfeka masweatpants akawanda uye mbatya dzakanaka paaiva kumba. "Iye zvino ava nechikonzero chekutenga," akawedzera.
Chimwe chikamu chakasimba mapfupi. "Mapfupi edenim akanaka kwazvo, kunyanya kubva kuAGoldE," akadaro. Akati: "Vanhu vanoda kugara vasina kurongeka, uye vanhu vazhinji vachiri kushanda kudzimba uye paZoom. Ungasaona kuti pasi pacho chii." Akati marudzi ese emapfupi ari kutengeswa; mamwe ane misono yakareba yemukati, mamwe mapfupi.
Nezvembatya dzekudzokera kuhofisi, Siboni akati akaona huwandu hwemajaketi emasutu "huchikwira zvechokwadi, izvo zvinonakidza zvikuru." Akati vanhu vari kutanga kudzoka kuhofisi, asi anotarisira kuti zvinhu zvichanyatsoibva mumatsutso. Zvigadzirwa zveBloomingdale zvematsutso zvichasvika kutanga kwaNyamavhuvhu.
Majini matete achiri kutengeswa, inova chikamu chikuru chebhizinesi ravo. Vakaona majini achichinja kuita mabhurugwa emakumbo akatwasuka, izvo zvakatanga kuitika gore ra2020 risati rasvika. Majini aAmai nemamwe masitayera ekare ari kutengeswa. "TikTok inosimbisa shanduko iyi kuenda kusitayera yakasununguka," akadaro. Akaona kuti majini aRag & Bone eMiramar akanga akadhindwa pascreen uye aitaridzika semajini, asi ainzwa semabhurugwa emitambo.
Makambani eDenim akaita zvakanaka anosanganisira Mother, AGoldE naAG. Paige Mayslie anga achitengesa mabhurugwa ejogging ane mavara akasiyana-siyana.
Pamusoro, nekuti pasi pacho panenge pasina kurongeka, maT-shirts agara akasimba. Pamusoro pezvo, mashati eBohemian akasununguka, mashati ePlairie, uye mashati ane machira akarukwa uye eyelets akakurumbirawo.
Siboni akati vanotengesawo zvipfeko zvakawanda zvinonakidza uye zvinopenya zvemanheru, madhirezi machena evaroorani uye zvipfeko zvemanheru zvinoyevedza zveprom. Pamichato yezhizha, mamwe madhirezi kubva kuna Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua naNookie akakodzera vaenzi. Akati LoveShackFancy inopfeka zvipfeko zvinorema, "zvinoshamisa kwazvo." Vanewo madhirezi akawanda ezororo ebohemian uye madhirezi anogona kupfekwa panguva yekugeza kwevaroorani.
Siboni akataura kuti bhizinesi rekunyoresa remutengesi rakasimba kwazvo, izvo zvinoratidza kuti vaviri ava vari kuchinja mazuva avo emuchato uye pane kudiwa kwembatya dzemuenzi nedzemwenga.
Yumi Shin, muzvinabhizinesi mukuru weBergdorf Goodman, akati mugore rapfuura, vatengi vavo vanga vachichinja-chinja, vachitenga zvigadzirwa zvakasiyana nemafoni eZoom uye mari yavo yakawanda.
"Sezvatinodzokera kune zvakajairika, tinonzwa tine tariro. Kutenga chinhu chitsva chinonakidza. Kwete chete nekuda kwekudzokera kuhofisi, asiwo nekuda kwekubatana kwemhuri neshamwari dziri kufunga nezvezvirongwa zvekufamba. Zvinofanira kunge zviri tariro," akadaro Shen.
Munguva pfupi yapfuura, vakaona kufarira magadzirirwo erudo, kusanganisira machira akazara kana ruffle. Akati Ulla Johnson akaita zvakanaka. "Imhando yakanaka kwazvo uye anotaura nevatengi vakasiyana-siyana," akadaro Shin, achiwedzera kuti zvigadzirwa zvese zvemhando iyi zviri kutengeswa zvakanaka. "Ndinofanira kutaura kuti iye [Johnson] humbowo hwedenda iri. Tinotengesa masiketi marefu, masiketi epakati nepakati, uye tava kutanga kuona masiketi mapfupi. Anozivikanwa nekudhinda kwake, uye tinotengesawo masiketi ake ane mavara akasimba. Mabhurugwa, jumpsuit ine mapapiro ebhuruu rebhuruu zviri kutiitira zvakanaka."
Madhirezi ezviitiko ndeimwe mhando yakakurumbira. "Tiri kuona madhirezi achive akakurumbira zvakare. Sezvo vatengi vedu vachitanga kugadzirira zviitiko zvakaita semichato, mhemberero dzekupedza kudzidza, uye kusanganazve neshamwari nemhuri, tinoona madhirezi achitengeswa kubva kuzviitiko zvemazuva ese kusvika kune zvakawanda, uye kunyange madhirezi emuchato ave akakurumbira zvakare," akadaro Shin.
Nezvemabhurugwa ehutete, akati, “Mabhurugwa ehutete anogara ari chinhu chinofanira kuva nacho muwadhiropu, asi tinoda zvigadzirwa zvitsva zvatinoona. Mabhurugwa ehutete akakwana, mabhurugwa ehutete akatwasuka uye mabhurugwa ehutete akafara ane chiuno chakakwirira zvave zvakakurumbira muma90s. Isu tinozvida chaizvo.” Akati kambani yakasarudzika, Still Here, iri muBrooklyn, iyo inogadzira mabhurugwa madiki, akapendwa nemaoko uye akapendwa, uye inoita basa rakanaka. Pamusoro pezvo, Totême yakaita zvakanaka, “Tiri kutengesawo mabhurugwa machena.” Totême ine mbatya dzakawanda dzakanaka dzekurukwa nemadhirezi, ayo ari echinyakare.
Paakabvunzwa nezvemayunifomu matsva kana vatengi vadzoka kuhofisi, akati: “Ini ndinofunga kuti mapfekero matsva achava akasununguka uye anochinjika. Kunyaradzwa kuchiri kukosha, asi ndinofunga kuti kuchachinja kuita mafashoni emazuva ese eumbozha. Takaona masutu akawanda ekurukwa atinofarira.” Akati vasati vasvika mwaka wechirimo, vakatanga kambani yekuruka yakasarudzika, Lisa Yang, iyo inonyanya kutaura nezvekufananidza mapfekero. Iri muStockholm uye inoshandisa cashmere yechisikigo. “Inoyevedza uye inoita zvakanaka, uye tinovimba kuti icharamba ichiita zvakanaka. Inonyaradza asi inoyevedza.”
Akawedzera kuti aitarisa mashandiro ejaketi, asi akasununguka zvikuru. Akati kugona kusiyanisa zvipfeko uye kugadzira zvipfeko ndizvo zvinonyanya kukosha. "Vakadzi vachada kutakura mbatya dzavo kubva kumba kuenda kuhofisi kunosangana neshamwari; dzinofanira kunge dzichishandiswa zvakasiyana-siyana uye dzakamukodzera. Iyi ndiyo ichava nzira itsva yekupfeka," akadaro.
Libby Page, Mupepeti Mukuru weKushambadzira weNet-a-porter, akati: “Sezvo vatengi vedu vachitarisira kudzoka kuhofisi, tiri kuona shanduko kubva pakupfeka zvipfeko zvemazuva ese kuenda kumhando yepamusoro. Kana tichitaura nezvemafashoni, tinoona kubva kuna Chloé, Zimmermann naIsabel. Mifananidzo yaMarant nemapatani emaruva emadhirezi evakadzi zvawedzera - ichi ndicho chigadzirwa chakakwana chezvipfeko zvebasa zvechirimo, zvakakodzerawo masikati nehusiku zvinodziya. Sechikamu chechiitiko chedu cheHS21, tichatanga 'Chic in' musi wa21 Chikumi The Heat' inosimbisa mamiriro ekunze anodziya uye mapfekero ekudzoka kubasa.”
Akati kana zvasvika pafashoni yedenim, vanoona mafashoni akareruka, akakura uye kuwedzera kwemaitiro emabharuni, kunyanya gore rapfuura, nekuti vatengi vavo vanotsvaga nyaradzo mune zvese zvewadhiropu yake. Akati majini ekare akatsetseka ave maitiro akasiyana-siyana muwadhiropu, uye mhando yavo yachinja mamiriro aya nekuwedzera maitiro aya muunganidzwa wayo mukuru.
Paakabvunzwa kana shangu dzemhando yepamusoro dziri sarudzo yekutanga, akati Net-a-porter yakaunza mavara machena matsva uye maumbirwo ekare uye masitayera muzhizha, akadai sekubatana kwaLoewe naMaison Margiela x Reebok.
Nezvezvaanotarisira zveyunifomu itsva yehofisi uye mafashoni matsva ekupfeka kwevanhu, Page akati, "Mavara akajeka anounza mufaro ndiwo achava musimboti wechirimo. Muunganidzwa wedu weDries Van Noten wazvino uno unoratidza kusapindirana kuburikidza nemasitayera nemachira akasununguka. , Runako rwakasununguka uye runofadza runowedzera chitarisiko chezuva nezuva. Tinoonawo kufarirwa kwedenim kuri kuramba kuchikwira, kunyanya kutanga kwedu kwazvino kwekushandira pamwe kwaValentino x Levi. Tinotarisira kuona vatengi vedu vachipfekedza hofisi yavo. Vabatanidze nedenim kuti vagadzire chitarisiko chakasununguka uye shanduko yakakwana kuenda kumabiko ekudya kwemanheru," akadaro.
Zvinhu zvakakurumbira paNet-a-porter zvinosanganisira zvinhu zvakakurumbira kubva kuFrankie Shop, zvakaita semajaketi ane machira uye sutu yavo yemitambo yeNet-a-porter; madhizaini aJacquemus, akadai sema crop tops nemasiketi, uye madhirezi marefu ane zvinhu zvisina kurongeka, madhirezi aDoen ane maruva neechikadzi, uye zvinhu zvakakosha zvewadhiropu yeTotême yechirimo neyezhizha.
Marie Ivanoff-Smith, mukuru wefashoni yevakadzi kuNordstrom, akati vatengi vemazuva ano vari kufunga kudzokera kubasa uye vari kutanga kubatanidzwa mumachira akarukwa uye akawanda machira ehembe. “Anogona kushandiswa zvakasiyana-siyana. Anogona kupfeka zvakanaka kana kupfekedzwa zvakanaka, anogona kuzvipfeka izvozvi, uye anogona kudzokera kuhofisi zvachose mumatsutso.”
"Takaona kudzoka kwejira rakarukwa, kwete kungodzokera kubasa chete, asiwo kubuda husiku, uye akatanga kuongorora izvi." Akati Nordstrom akashanda zvakanaka naRag & Bone naNili Lotan, uye akati "vane jira rehembe risingakanganise". Akati kudhinda nekupenda zvakakosha zvikuru. "Rio Farms iri kuuraya. Hatigone kuramba tichienderera mberi. Izvi zvinoshamisa," akadaro.
Akati vatengi vanonyanya kufarira chimiro chemuviri uye vanogona kuratidza ganda rakawanda. "Mamiriro ezvinhu evanhu ari kuitika," akadaro. Akataura mienzaniso yevatengesi vakaita saUlla Johnson vari kuita zvakanaka munharaunda iyi. Akataurawo kuti Alice + Olivia achaburitsa madhirezi akawanda emitambo yekushamwaridzana. Nordstrom yaita basa rakanaka nemakambani akadai saTed Baker, Ganni, Staud naCinq à Sept. Mutengesi uyu anoita basa rakanaka remadhirezi ezhizha.
Akati akaona madhirezi akagadzirwa zvakanaka gore rapera nekuti anonyaradza zvikuru. "Iye zvino tinoona madhirezi achidzoka nemifananidzo yakanaka. Nemufaro nemanzwiro, buda mumba," akadaro.
Nguva yekutumira: Chikunguru-08-2021