Hazvina mhosva kuti vangani nyanzvi dzezvipfeko zvechirume dzakaverenga mhemberero yekupedzisira yesutu iyi mushure medenda, varume vanoita sevanoda patsva yezvimedu zviviri. Nekudaro, senge zvinhu zvakawanda, sutu yezhizha iri kushandurwa nekupatsanurwa, yakagadziridzwa seersucker chimiro, uye pakupedzisira dzidza kufarira mapeta erineni, uye kana pasina kupokana, iwe unogona zvakare kupfeka shangu dzakapfava.
Ini ndinoda masutu, asi ndinoapfeka nekuti anondifadza, kwete nekuti basa rangu rinondimanikidza kudaro, saka ndinoapfeka zvisingaite. Mazuvano, zvakaoma kufunga kuti kune mabasa akawandisa ekupfeka sutu: vatyairi veMercedes S-Kirasi neBMW 7 Series, magadhi anodhura ane tambo dzakamoneredzwa pamakora avo, mabhari, vanobvunzurudza basa, uye zvechokwadi vezvematongerwo enyika. Kunyanya Vezvematongerwo enyika vaipfeka masutu uye vaitamba mitambo yekutya, sezvinoonekwa paG7; chinangwa chacho chaiita sekuwana chimiro chinonakidza nekunakidzwa kudiki.
Asi kune avo vedu vasingavhure oligarchs kana kutora chikamu mumaforamu ehurumende, sutu yezhizha mukana wekuzorora uye kuzvibvumira zvinyoro kudzoka kune semi-formal state. Isu tinofanirwa kufunga zvatinopfeka kumapati egadheni, mitambo yeopera yakavhurika, misangano yemakwikwi, mitambo yetenisi, uye mabiko ekunze (tipi rinobatsira: kana vakapa chimwe chinhu chakakwirisa kupfuura mabhega nedoro repachivande, ndapota siya maShorts aneruvara esimende… funga nezvazvo, ingozvikanda kure).
Kuita kwevarume vekuBritain kuchirimo chinozivikanwa chechirimo dzimwe nguva chinoita sechisina basa, asi pane nzira yekukweverwa pakati peCharybdis akapfeka zvikabudura uye Scylla akapfeka masutu ezhizha, achitungamira varume kubva kuDel Monte neSandhill. Kubudirira kunowanzo rara mukuita sarudzo dzejira rakakodzera.
Mumakore mashoma apfuura, seersucker yakabvisa dzidziso dzemitsetse yebhuruu kana mitsvuku mitete uye yakabuda kubva mupupa kunge shavishavi rine mavara. "Ndakagadzira masutu akawanda e seersucker kuWimbledon neGoodwood gore rino kupfuura mumakore apfuura 10. Iri kuitika patsva chaiyo, zvichienderana neruvara," akadaro Terry Haste weKent & Haste, Savile Street, iye zvino Mucherechedzi wemarudzi akawanda anomuratidza Ken Kesey mumoyo make. "Kune bhuruu negirinhi, bhuruu negoridhe, bhuruu nebrown, uye grid uye mitsara masikweya."
Mumwe wevatungamiri vekufungidzira seersucker ndeyeCacciopoli, mutengesi wemucheka muNaples, asi seersucker haingopi ruvara chete, asiwo inobvisa kunetseka pamusoro pe creases: creases ndiyo pfungwa; chaizvoizvo, iyo yakagara yakagadzirwa, isati yambozorora Hongu, yakakodzera kushandiswa kwezhizha.
Drake's Michael Hill akati ndiko kunzwa kunosvikika uku ndiko zvakare chikonzero chekuzivikanwa kwerineni gore rino. "Chinofadza zvikuru isutu yedu yerineni. Hapana chinochinja pamavara anokunda: navy, khaki, hazel, nefodya." Asi mutsauko ndewekuti akaisa pfungwa pane zvaakadana Muchipfeko che "mutambo sutu", akaisiyanisa kubva kune yakarongeka.
"Inyaya yekumbundikira crease.Haungade kunyanyokosha, uye kuti unogona kuikanda mumushini wewashing kunobatsira kuti sutu yacho ive nyore kusvika.Varume vanoda kupfeka zvakasiyana uye kucheka nepolo shirt kana T-shirt yekupwanya Jackets nemabhuruku.Ino chirimo, tinoona akawanda uye akawanda-low-low dressing styles achibatanidza kupfeka, gaba rakanaka nesvutu yebaseball yakapfava. chokwadi, ine dynamite.
Chikamu chechikonzero chekufungisisa zvakare sutu ndechekuti Drake haatengese sutu yemutambo sesutu, asi sekuparadzana kunogona kupfekwa sesutu. Iyi inoratidzika kunge inopesana nepsychology, kutengesa chipfeko chakajairika chezhizha sezvimedu zviviri zvinowirirana zvakasiyana, zvinoitawo basa muConnolly. Inopa vhezheni inodzivirira misodzi, inotsanangurwa naConnolly boss Isabel Ettedgui se "technical seersucker."
"Tinoatengesa semabhachi uye bhurugwa rechiuno," akadaro Ettedgui. “Varume vanozvifarira nekuti vanofunga kuti vanogona kuzvitenga vakasiyana, kunyangwe vasina, takazvitengesa kune vane makore 23 ne73 vanoda macasual colours uye vasingapfeki masokisi.”
Zegna ane nyaya yakafanana. Creative director Alessandro Sartori akatsanangura masutu emhando yepamusoro seanozivikanwa nevatengi vakagadzirwa netsika, "Vanopfeka masutu nekuda kwavo." . Kugadzirira-kupfeka ndeimwe nyaya. “Vanotenga zvinhu zvega kune mumwe mugadziri wembatya dzepamusoro, vanosarudza pamusoro kana basa, uye vogadzira sutu inoenderana nepamusoro nepasi,” akadaro. Mucheka wakagadzirwa nesirika yakamonwa uye cashmere, uye musanganiswa werineni, donje nerineni unoshandisa pastel nyowani.
Iyo yakakurumbira Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci zvakare yakanyatso kutendeukira kune yakajairika kunaka kunaka. "Safari Park ndiyo inokunda zhizha rino nekuti yakasununguka uye iri nyore," Mariano Rubinacci akadaro. “Inozorodza nekuti yakaita sehembe isina mucheka, asi inopfekwa sebhachi, saka inogona kunge iri pamutemo, uye homwe dzayo dzese dzinoshanda.
Ndichitaura nezvezvipfeko zvekare, ndinogodora bhachi redonje reMadras mwanakomana wangu mudiki akatengwa pamusika wePortobello: chipfeko chine Proust simba chinomutsa mufananidzo weAmerica munguva yeEisenhower. Iyo yakasimba cheki, zviri nani. .. Asi nebhurugwa riri pachena.
Kunyangwe Huntsman wenhare huru yeSavile Street akaona maitiro akajeka ekuparadzanisa. Creative Director Campbell Carey akati: "Covid pamberi, vanhu vaifarira kupfeka majaketi esutu nemabhurugwa akanaka kumisangano." "Zhizha rino, hatikwanise kutengesa majaketi esutu akavhurika akarukwa akarukwa. Mamiriro akarukwa anoreva kuti anogona kumonwa. Anouya nemhando dzakasiyana-siyana uye mavara kuti aite kuti zvienderane nemusanganiswa wako, uye unogona kuubvisa kuti mweya upinde nekubuda." Carey akapawo izvo zvaakadaidza kuti "kupera kwesvondo." Ichiri muchimiro chaHuntsman; maburi emaoko akakwirira, bhatani, uye chiuno, “asi mutsara wemapendekete wakapfava zvishoma, takapfavisa chimiro checanvas, uye chimiro chemberi chiri chimwe chete, chichitsiva vhudzi [rakaoma] rebhiza.”
Kutaura nezvehembe, pfungwa ndeyekuita kunge wakapfeka shati yakashama mutsipa, pane kuti uchangobva kubva kumariro emafia uye nekukasira kusunungura tie yako uye kusunungura shati yako collar. Kurudziro yangu ndeyekupfeka bhatani-pasi shati yerineni seBel yeBarcelona. Kuvakwa kwayo hakuna bhandi rehuro nepamusoro, asi kupera kwemukati kunoratidzika kunge kwakangwara, uye collar inoramba ichikunguruka nekuda kwemabhatani pacollar point.
Kubva ipapo, iwe unogona kuwedzera kusarudza shati dzezororo dzakavhurika-mitsipa, iyo collar ndiyo mhando yehembe ine Lido collar inoparidzwa nemugadziri wezvipfeko zvevarume Scott Fraser Simpson. Kana iwe uchishuvira, tarisa iyo Instagram account yaWei Koh, muvambi weRake Tailored. Akapedza nguva yekuvharirwa muSingapore, achifananidza nhamba yake huru yemasutu nehembe dzeHawaiian uye kupfura mhedzisiro.
Mutambo uchadzoka wega kune yedu yakajairika eclectic mutsara wevatauri uye madingindira paKenwood House (uye online) musi wa4 Gunyana. Kuisa jekiseni zvese izvi kuchave kumutswa kwemweya uye mukana wekufungidzira nyika mushure medenda. Kuti utore matikiti, ndapota shanya pano
Asi kunyange mumamiriro ekunze anhasi akasununguka ekusona, pachine nguva apo hembe dzeHawaiian dzinogona kunzi de trop uye vanhu vangazviona zviri nyore (kana zvisinganyanyi kuoneka) kupfeka tai; nokuda kweizvi, zvisungo zvesilika zvakarukwa ndiyo sarudzo yakakwana. Iyo ishamwari yakanakisa yekufamba, nekuti kana yamonyoroka kuita bhora uye yakaturikwa mukona yesutukesi, haizounyana kana kukanganisa. Kunyangwe zvichinzwika kupokana, zvinotaridzika zvakasununguka-kana iwe usinganditende, ndapota pikicha yeGoogle David Hockney uye tayi yakarukwa, iyo yaanogona kushandisa nemabhuruku ane pendi-dhayi uye akamonera maoko.
Zvichave zvinonakidza kuona kana kunyangwe zvisungo zvakarukwa zvinogona kupona kufanotaura kwaHuntsman's Carey. Kuparadzana uku kuchine rwendo rurefu rwekufamba. Kana iri zhizha riri pamusoro pe brisk mesh blazer, iye zvino anoisa pfungwa dzake kune chimwe chikamu che-two-piece sutu, uye achifemerwa nemhando dzakasiyana-siyana dzezvisarudzo zve seersucker, ari kushanda pane zvaanodaidza kuti "shorts yefashoni" yakatevedzana. “Idzo dziri gore rinouya.” “Hongu,” akadaro, “asi usakanganise, bhachi resutu nekabudura zviri pano.”
Nguva yekutumira: Sep-13-2021