Kule hlobo nasekwindla, ngaphambi kokuba abafazi babuyele eofisini, babonakala ngathi bathenga impahla baze baphume baye kudibana kwakhona. Iingubo zokunxiba ezingaqhelekanga, iitopu ezintle, neeswetha zabasetyhini, iijeans ezivuthayo kunye neejeans ezithe tye, kunye neebhulukhwe ezimfutshane ziye zathengiswa kakhulu kwiivenkile ezithengisa iimpahla.
Nangona iinkampani ezininzi zihlala zixelela abasebenzi ukuba kufuneka baqale ukubuya, abathengisi bathi ukuthenga impahla yokusebenza ayisiyonto iphambili kumthengi.
Kunoko, babone ukwanda kokuthengwa kweempahla zokunxiba ngoko nangoko—kwiipati, kwimibhiyozo, kwiindawo zokubhaka inyama emva kwendlu, kwiikhefi zangaphandle, kwizidlo zangokuhlwa nabahlobo, nakwiiholide. Imifanekiso eqaqambileyo nemibala ibalulekile ukuphucula imeko yabathengi.
Nangona kunjalo, iikhabhathi zabo zomsebenzi ziya kuhlaziywa kungekudala, kwaye abathengisi benze uqikelelo oluthile malunga nokubonakala kweeyunifomu ezintsha zeofisi ekwindla.
I-WWD idlan’ udliwanondlebe nabathengisi abakhulu ukuze bafunde ngokuthengiswa kwiindawo zanamhlanje kunye neembono zabo ngendlela entsha yokunxiba ngendlela ehambelana nehlabathi.
“Ngokuphathelele ishishini lethu, asimbonanga ethenga. Ugxile kwimpahla yakhe ethe ngqo, impahla yakhe yasehlotyeni. Asikayiboni imfuno yeempahla zomsebenzi zesintu isanda,” utshilo umthengisi oyintloko we-Intermix uDivya Mathur, esithi le nkampani ithengiswe yiGap Inc. kwinkampani yabucala i-Altamont Capital Partners kule nyanga.
Ucacisile ukuba ukusukela ngobhubhane kaMatshi 2020, abathengi abakhange bathenge nto entwasahlobo ephelileyo. “Akazange ayihlaziye ikhabhathi yakhe yexesha elithile kangangeminyaka emibini. [Ngoku] ebegxile ngokupheleleyo entwasahlobo,” utshilo uMathur.
“Ufuna ilokhwe elula yasehlotyeni. Ilokhwe elula yepoplin anokuyinxiba kunye neebhulukhwe zezicathulo. Ukwafuna neempahla zeholide,” utshilo. UMathur ubonise ukuba iimpawu ezifana noStaud, uVeronica Beard, uJonathan Simkhai kunye noZimmermann zezinye zeempawu eziphambili ezithengiswayo ngoku.
“Akuyonto afuna ukuyithenga ngoku. Uthe, ‘Andinamdla wokuthenga into endinayo,’” utshilo. UMathur uthe ukubhitya kuhlala kubalulekile kwi-Intermix. “Ngokuphathelele into ethandwayo ngoku, ufuna ngokwenene into entsha. Kuthi, le yijini enezinqe eziphezulu ehamba ngqo emilenzeni, kunye ne-denim ekhululekileyo kancinci yeminyaka yoo-90. SikwiRe/done Brands ezifana neAGoldE kunye neAGoldE zenza kakuhle. I-denim ye-AGoldE enqamlezileyo ibisoloko ingumthengisi omangalisayo ngenxa yeenkcukacha zayo ezintsha ezinomdla. Ijini ezibhityileyo zeRe/done ziyavutha. Ukongeza, isiphumo se-wash The sikaMoussy Vintage silungile kakhulu, kwaye sineepateni ezinomdla zokuphambukisa,” utshilo.
Iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zezinye zezona zidumileyo. I-Intermix yaqala ukuthengisa iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zedenim ngoFebruwari kwaye ithengise amakhulu azo. “Sihlala sibona i-rebound kwiibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zedenim kummandla osemazantsi. Saqala ukubona le rebound phakathi kuMatshi, kodwa yaqala ngoFebruwari,” utshilo uMather. Uthe konke oku kwenzelwe ukulingana ngcono kwaye ukuthunga “kushushu kakhulu”.
“Kodwa uhlobo lwabo olukhululekileyo lude kancinci. Luvakala ngathi luphukile kwaye lunqunyulwe. Lucocekile, lude, kwaye isinqe sinjengebhegi yephepha,” utshilo.
Ngokuphathelele iikhabhathi zabo zomsebenzi, uthe abathengi bakhe bahlala kude okanye baxubene ehlotyeni. “Baceba ukuqhubeka nobomi babo ngokupheleleyo ngaphambi kokuba ubhubhane uqalise ekwindla.” Ubone abantu abaninzi benxibe iimpahla ezilukiweyo kunye neehempe ezilukiweyo.
“Iyunifomu yakhe yangoku yibhulukhwe entle yebhulukhwe kunye nehempe entle okanye isweta entle.” Ezinye zeetopu abazithengisayo ziitopu zabasetyhini ezivela e-Ulla Johnson nase-Sea New York. “Ezi bhrendi ziitopu ezilukiweyo ezintle eziprintiweyo, nokuba ziprintiwe okanye zineenkcukacha ezithungiweyo, utshilo.
Xa enxibe iijini, abathengi bakhe bakhetha iindlela zokuhlamba ezinomdla kunye neendlela zokumfanela, endaweni yokuthi “Ndifuna ijini emhlophe.” Uhlobo lwejini aluthandayo yibhulukhwe ende enemilenze ethe tye.
UMathur uthe usathengisa izicathulo ezintsha nezinesitayile. “Sibona ngokwenene ukwanda okukhulu kwishishini leembadada,” utshilo.
“Ishishini lethu lihle kakhulu. Le yimpendulo entle ku-2019. Siza kuqala ukuphuhlisa ishishini lethu kwakhona. Sibonelela ngeshishini elingcono ngexabiso elipheleleyo kunango-2019,” utshilo.
Ubone neempahla ezithengiswa kakhulu kwiminyhadala. Abathengi babo abafuni mpahla zebhola. Uza kuya kwimitshato, kwimibhiyozo yokuzalwa, kwimibhiyozo yokukhula kunye nakwimibhiyozo yokugqiba izifundo. Ufuna iimveliso ezikumgangatho ophezulu kunempahla eqhelekileyo ukuze abe ngundwendwe emtshatweni. I-Intermix yabona isidingo sikaZimmermann. “Siqhayisa ngayo yonke into esiyifumene kuloo bhrendi,” utshilo uMather.
“Abantu banemisebenzi kule hlobo, kodwa abanazo iimpahla zokunxiba. Izinga lokuchacha likhawuleza kunokuba besilindele,” utshilo. Xa i-Intermix ithengile le sizini ngoSeptemba, babecinga ukuba kuza kuthatha ixesha elide ukubuya. Yaqala ukubuya ngoMatshi nango-Epreli. “Besixhalabile kancinci apho, kodwa sikwazile ukuleqa le mveliso,” utshilo.
Lilonke, iimpahla ezisemgangathweni ophezulu zithatha i-50% yeshishini layo. “Ishishini lethu le-'true event' lithatha i-5% ukuya kwi-8% yeshishini lethu,” utshilo.
Wongeze ngelithi kubafazi abakwiholide, bathenga iLoveShackFancy ka-Agua Bendita kunye neAgua, le yokugqibela ziimpahla zokwenyani zeholide.
URoopal Patel, usekela-mongameli omkhulu kunye nomlawuli wefashoni eSaks Fifth Avenue, uthe: “Ngoku, abafazi bayathenga ngokuqinisekileyo. Abafazi abanxibi ngokukodwa ukubuyela eofisini, kodwa ngenxa yobomi babo. Baya kuthenga ukuze bathenge iimpahla kwiindawo zokutyela, okanye batye ibrunch okanye isidlo sasemini, okanye bahlale kwikhefi yangaphandle ukuze badle isidlo sangokuhlwa.” Uthe bathenga “iingubo ezintle, ezikhululekileyo, ezikhululekileyo, ezinomdla, nezinemibala enokubaleka kwaye ziphucule indlela abavakalelwa ngayo.” Iimpawu ezidumileyo kwicandelo lanamhlanje ziquka uZimmermann noTove. , uJonathan Simkhai kunye no-ALC.
Ngokuphathelele iijini, uPatel ebesoloko ekholelwa ukuba iijini ezincinci zifana neT-shirt emhlophe. “Ukuba kukho into ayenzayo, uzakhela eyakhe ikhabhathi yejini. Ujonge izinqe eziphakamileyo, ii-bell bottoms zeminyaka yoo-70, imilenze ethe tye, iimpahla ezahlukeneyo, ukunqunyulwa kwee-boyfriend. Nokuba yidenim emhlophe okanye idenim emnyama, okanye idolo. Imingxunya ekrazukileyo, kunye neejakethi ezifanayo kunye neejini kunye nezinye iimpahla ezifanayo,” utshilo.
Ucinga ukuba idenim ibe yinxalenye yokutya kwakhe okuqhelekileyo, nokuba uyaphuma ebusuku okanye ufowunela kule mihla. Ngexesha le-COVID-19, abafazi banxiba idenim, iisweta ezintle kunye nezihlangu ezikhazimlisiweyo.
“Ndicinga ukuba abafazi baya kuzihlonipha izinto ezingaqhelekanga zedenim, kodwa eneneni ndicinga ukuba abafazi baya kusebenzisa eli thuba ukunxiba kakuhle. Ukuba banxiba iijini yonke imihla, akukho mntu ufuna ukunxiba iijini. Iofisi isinika ithuba lokunxiba iimpahla zethu ezilungileyo, izihlangu zethu ezinde nezinde kunye nezihlangu esizithandayo kwaye sinxibe kakuhle,” utshilo uPatel.
Uthe njengoko imozulu itshintsha, abathengi abafuni kunxiba iijakethi. “Ufuna ukubonakala emhle, ufuna ukonwaba. Sithengisa imibala eyonwabisayo, sithengisa izihlangu ezikhazimlayo. Sithengisa iiflethi ezinomdla,” utshilo. “Abafazi abathanda imfashini bayisebenzisa njengombhiyozo wokubonakalisa isitayile sabo. Kukuze bazive kamnandi ngokwenene,” utshilo.
Umlawuli weBloomingdale's Women's ready to wear uArielle Siboni uthe: “Ngoku, sibona abathengi besabela kwiimveliso ezininzi ezithi ‘thenga ngoku, nxiba ngoku’,” kuquka iimpahla zasehlotyeni nezeholide. “Kuthi, oku kuthetha iziketi ezininzi ezilula, iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zedenim kunye neelokhwe zepoplin. Ukudada kunye nokufihla izinto kunamandla kakhulu kuthi.”
“Ngokuphathelele iilokhwe, iintlobo ezininzi ze-bohemian, i-crochet kunye ne-poplin, kunye ne-printed midi zisebenza kakuhle kuthi,” utshilo. Iilokhwe ze-ALC, i-Bash, i-Maje kunye ne-Sandro zithengiswa kakhulu. Uthe lo mthengi ebesoloko emkhumbula kuba wayenxiba iibhulukhwe ezininzi kunye neempahla ezikhululekileyo xa esekhaya. “Ngoku unesizathu sokuthenga,” wongezelela.
Olunye udidi oluqinileyo ziibhulukhwe ezimfutshane. “Iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zedenim zibalaseleyo, ingakumbi ezivela kwi-AGoldE,” utshilo. Uthe: “Abantu bafuna ukuhlala bekhululekile, kwaye abantu abaninzi basasebenza emakhaya nakwi-Zoom. Usenokungaziboni ukuba zithini iibhulukhwe ezisezantsi.” Uthe zonke iintlobo zeebhulukhwe ezimfutshane ziyathengiswa; ezinye zinemithungo emide yangaphakathi, ezinye ziibhulukhwe ezimfutshane.
Ngokuphathelele iimpahla ezibuyela eofisini, uSiboni uthe ubone inani leebhatyi zesuti “ngokuqinisekileyo liyanda, nto leyo echulumancisayo kakhulu.” Uthe abantu baqala ukubuyela eofisini, kodwa ulindele ukuba zivuthwe ngokupheleleyo ekwindla. Iimveliso zasekwindla zaseBloomingdale ziya kufika ekuqaleni kuka-Agasti.
Iijini ezibhityileyo zisathengiswa, nto leyo eyinxalenye enkulu yeshishini labo. Ubone iijini ziguquka zibe ziibhulukhwe ezithe tye, nto leyo eyaqala ukwenzeka ngaphambi kowama-2020. Iijini zikaMama kunye nezinye iintlobo zesitayile sakudala ziyathengiswa. “I-TikTok iqinisa olu tshintsho kwisitayile esikhululekileyo,” utshilo. Uqaphele ukuba iijini zikaRag & Bone zeMiramar zaziprintwe ngesikrini kwaye zibukeka njengeejini, kodwa zazivakala njengeebhulukhwe zemidlalo.
Iimpawu zeDenim ezisebenze kakuhle ziquka uMother, uAGoldE kunye no-AG. UPaige Mayslie ebethengisa iibhulukhwe zokubaleka ezinemibala eyahlukeneyo.
Kwindawo ephezulu, kuba izantsi likhululekile, iiT-shirts bezisoloko ziqinile. Ukongeza, iihempe zeBohemian ezikhululekileyo, iihempe zasePrairie, kunye neehempe ezineeleyisi ezihonjisiweyo kunye nee-eyelets nazo zithandwa kakhulu.
USiboni uthe bakwathengisa iimpahla ezininzi zangokuhlwa ezinomdla nezikhanyayo, iilokhwe ezimhlophe zomtshakazi kunye neempahla zangokuhlwa ezintle zeprom. Kwimitshato yasehlotyeni, ezinye iingubo ezivela ku-Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua kunye noNookie zifanelekile kakhulu kwiindwendwe. Uthe ngokuqinisekileyo uLoveShackFancy unxibe iimpahla ezinzima, "zimangalisa kakhulu." Bakwanazo neelokhwe ezininzi zeholide ze-bohemian kunye neelokhwe ezinokunxitywa kwishawa yomtshakazi.
USiboni ubonise ukuba ishishini lokubhalisa lalo mthengisi liqinile kakhulu, nto leyo ebonisa ukuba esi sibini sitshintsha imihla yaso yomtshato kwaye kukho imfuneko yempahla yendwendwe neyomtshakazi.
UYumi Shin, usomashishini oyintloko waseBergdorf Goodman, uthe kunyaka ophelileyo, abathengi babo bebeguquguquka, bethenga iimveliso ezikhethekileyo ezibalaseleyo kwiifowuni zeZoom kunye nokuchitha imali eninzi kwizinto zabo zodidi.
“Njengoko sibuyela kwisiqhelo, siziva sinethemba. Ukuthenga ngokuqinisekileyo lulonwabo olutsha. Akupheleli nje ekubuyeleni eofisini, kodwa nakwindibano ekudala ilindelwe nosapho kunye nabahlobo abacinga ngezicwangciso zokuhamba. Kufuneka ukuba kunethemba,” utshilo uShen.
Kutshanje, babone umdla kwiisilhouettes zothando, kuquka imikhono egcweleyo okanye iinkcukacha ze-ruffle. Uthe u-Ulla Johnson uqhube kakuhle. “Ungumqondiso omkhulu kwaye uthetha nabathengi abaninzi abahlukeneyo,” utshilo uShin, wongeza ukuba zonke iimveliso zomqondiso zithengiswa kakuhle. “Ndingatsho ukuba yena [uJohnson] bubungqina bobhubhane. Sithengisa iziketi ezinde, iziketi eziphakathi, kwaye siqala ukubona iziketi ezimfutshane. Udumile ngemifanekiso yakhe, kwaye sithengisa neejumpsuits zakhe ezinemibala eqinileyo. Iibhulukhwe, ijumpsuit enemiphetho eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka iyasisebenzela.”
Iingubo zeziganeko zezinye iindidi ezidumileyo. “Ngokuqinisekileyo sibona iingubo ziphinda zithandwa. Njengoko abathengi bethu beqala ukulungiselela imicimbi efana nemitshato, imisitho yokugqiba izifundo, kunye nokudibana nabahlobo kunye nosapho, sibona iingubo zithengiswa ngokubanzi, ukusuka kwimicimbi eqhelekileyo ukuya kweminye, kwaye neengubo zomtshato nazo ziye zathandwa kwakhona,” utshilo uShin.
Ngokuphathelele iibhulukhwe ezincinci, uthe, “Iibhulukhwe ezincinci ziya kuhlala ziyimfuneko kwikhabhathi, kodwa siyazithanda iimveliso ezintsha esizibonayo. Iibhulukhwe ezifakelweyo, iibhulukhwe ezinemilenze ethe tye kunye neebhulukhwe ezinemilenze ebanzi ezinde bezithandwa kakhulu ngeminyaka yoo-90. Siyithanda kakhulu.” Uthe uphawu olukhethekileyo, i-Still Here, lukwiBrooklyn, oluvelisa iibhulukhwe ezincinci, ezipeyintwe ngesandla kwaye zipeyintwe, kwaye lwenza umsebenzi olungileyo. Ukongeza, iTotême iqhube kakuhle, “Sikwathengisa iibhulukhwe ezimhlophe.” ITotême ineempahla ezininzi ezintle zokuluka kunye neelokhwe, ezingaqhelekanga.
Xa ebuzwa malunga neeyunifomu ezintsha xa abathengi bebuyela eofisini, uthe: “Ndicinga ukuba ikhowudi entsha yokunxiba iya kukhululeka ngakumbi kwaye iguquguquke. Intuthuzelo isabalulekile, kodwa ndicinga ukuba iya kutshintshela kwiindlela zemihla ngemihla zobunewunewu. Ndabona iisuti ezininzi ze-chic ezithungiweyo esizithandayo.” Uthe ngaphambi kwekwindla, baqalise uphawu olukhethekileyo lokuluka, uLisa Yang, olubhekiselele kakhulu ekufanisweni kwee-knitwear. Ikwindawo yaseStockholm kwaye isebenzisa i-cashmere yendalo. “I-chic kakhulu kwaye isebenza kakuhle, kwaye sinethemba lokuba iya kuqhubeka isebenza kakuhle. Ikhululekile kodwa i-chic.”
Wongeze ngelithi wayebukele indlela eqhuba ngayo ijakethi, kodwa wayekhululekile ngakumbi. Uthe ukuguquguquka kunye nokuthunga iimpahla kuya kuba yeyona nto ibalulekileyo. “Abafazi baya kufuna ukuthatha iimpahla zabo bazise eofisini ukuze badibane nabahlobo; kufuneka zibe nobuchule kwaye zimfanele. Oku kuya kuba yindlela entsha yokunxiba,” utshilo.
ULibby Page, uMhleli oyiNtloko weNtengiso kwiNet-a-porter, uthe: “Njengoko abathengi bethu bejonge phambili ekubuyeleni eofisini, sibona utshintsho oluvela kwiimpahla ezingaqhelekanga ukuya kwiindlela eziphambili. Ngokuphathelele iimfashini, sibona kuChloé, Zimmermann kunye noIsabel. Imifanekiso kaMarant kunye neepatheni zeentyatyambo zeengubo zabasetyhini zinyukile-le yimveliso enye efanelekileyo yeempahla zokusebenza zasentwasahlobo, ikwafanelekile nakwiimini ezifudumeleyo nobusuku. Njengenxalenye yomsitho wethu we-HS21, siza kuqalisa 'iChic in' ngoJuni 21 I-The Heat' igxininisa kwimozulu efudumeleyo kunye neempahla zokubuyela emsebenzini.”
Uthe xa kufikwa kwiimfashini zedenim, babona iindlela ezikhululekileyo, ezinkulu kunye nokwanda kweendlela zebhaluni, ingakumbi kunyaka ophelileyo, kuba abathengi babo bafuna intuthuzelo kuzo zonke iinkalo zempahla yakhe. Uthe iijini zakudala ezithe tye ziye zaba yindlela eguquguqukayo kwimpahla yakhe, kwaye uphawu lwabo luye lwaqhelana nale meko ngokongeza le ndlela kwingqokelela yalo ephambili.
Xa ebuzwa ukuba ngaba ii-sneakers zezona zikhethwa kuqala, uthe i-Net-a-porter yazisa imibala emhlophe emitsha kunye neemilo zakudala kunye neesitayile ehlotyeni, ezifana nentsebenziswano kaLoewe kunye noMaison Margiela kunye neReebok.
Ngokuphathelele amathemba akhe kwiyunifomu entsha yeofisi kunye nefashoni entsha yokunxiba kwezentlalo, uPage uthe, “Imibala eqaqambileyo evuselela uvuyo iya kuba yeyona nto iphambili entwasahlobo. Ingqokelela yethu yamva nje yeDries Van Noten capsule ibonakalisa ukungathathi cala ngokusebenzisa izitayile kunye neendwangu ezikhululekileyo. , Ubuhle obukhululekileyo nobumnandi obuhambelana nayo nayiphi na inkangeleko yemihla ngemihla. Sikwabona ukuthandwa kwedenim kuqhubeka nokunyuka, ingakumbi ukuqaliswa kwethu kwakutshanje kwentsebenziswano kaValentino x Levi. Sinethemba lokubona abathengi bethu benxibe iofisi yabo. Yidibanise nedenim ukuze idale inkangeleko ekhululekileyo kunye notshintsho olugqibeleleyo kwisidlo sangokuhlwa,” utshilo.
Izinto ezidumileyo kwi-Net-a-porter ziquka izinto ezidumileyo ezivela kwiFrankie Shop, ezifana neejakethi ezifakwe iilaphu kunye nesuti yazo yezemidlalo ye-Net-a-porter ekhethekileyo; uyilo lweJacquemus, olufana nee-crop tops kunye neziketi, kunye neelokhwe ezinde ezineenkcukacha ezimdaka, iilokhwe zentyatyambo nezesifazana zikaDoen, kunye nezinto ezibalulekileyo zekhabhathi zasentwasahlobo nasehlotyeni zikaTotême.
UMarie Ivanoff-Smith, umlawuli wefashoni yabasetyhini eNordstrom, uthe abathengi banamhlanje bacinga ngokubuyela emsebenzini kwaye baqala ukubandakanyeka kwimpahla elukiweyo kunye nenani elikhulu leempahla zehempe. “Ziyasebenziseka. Angazinxiba okanye azinxibe kakuhle, angazinxiba ngoku, kwaye angabuyela eofisini ngokupheleleyo ekwindla.
“Sibone ukubuya kwempahla elukiweyo, kungekuphela nje ukuze sibuyele emsebenzini, kodwa nokuphuma ebusuku, waza waqalisa ukuphonononga oku.” Uthe uNordstrom usebenze kakuhle kakhulu noRag & Bone kunye noNili Lotan, kwaye wathi “banelaphu lehempe elingaguqukiyo”. Uthe ukuprinta nombala kubaluleke kakhulu. “IRio Farms iyayibulala le nto. Asikwazi ukuqhubeka. Oku kuyamangalisa,” utshilo.
Uthe abathengi bathambekele ngakumbi kwimilo yomzimba kwaye banokubonisa ulusu oluninzi. “Iimeko zentlalo ziyenzeka,” utshilo. Ukhankanye imizekelo yabathengisi abafana no-Ulla Johnson abaqhuba kakuhle kulo mmandla. Ukwabonise ukuba u-Alice + Olivia uza kuvelisa ezinye iingubo zemicimbi yoluntu. I-Nordstrom yenze umsebenzi omhle kwiimveliso ezifana noTed Baker, uGanni, uStaud kunye noCinq ngoSeptemba. Lo mthengisi wenza umsebenzi omhle weengubo zasehlotyeni.
Uthe wabona iingubo ezifanela zonke zihonjiswe kakuhle kunyaka ophelileyo kuba zikhululekile kakhulu. “Ngoku sibona iintsimbi neempempe zibuya nemizobo emihle. Ngovuyo neemvakalelo, phumani endlwini,” utshilo.
Ixesha lokuthumela: Julayi-08-2021