Nokuba zingaphi iingcali zempahla yamadoda ezifundileyo ngomsitho wokugqibela wale suti emva kobhubhane, amadoda abonakala enesidingo esitsha sempahla ezimbini. Nangona kunjalo, njengezinye izinto ezininzi, isuti yasehlotyeni iyaguqulwa ibe yi-seersucker ehluliweyo, ehlaziyiweyo, kwaye ekugqibeleni ifunda ukuthanda imiphetho yelinen, kwaye ukuba uyathandabuza, unganxiba nezihlangu ezinezithende ezithambileyo.
Ndiyazithanda iisuti, kodwa ndizinxiba kuba zindenza ndonwabe, kungekhona kuba umsebenzi wam undinyanzela ukuba ndenze njalo, ngoko ke ndizinxiba ngendlela engaqhelekanga. Kule mihla, kunzima ukucinga ukuba kukho imisebenzi emininzi kakhulu yokunxiba isuti: abaqhubi beMercedes S-Class kunye neBMW 7 Series, oonogada ababizayo abaneentambo ezibotshelelweyo kwiikhola zabo, abameli, abantu abathetha nabo ngomsebenzi, kwaye ewe nabezopolitiko. Ingakumbi abezopolitiko babenxiba iisuti kwaye besenza imidaniso ephazamisayo, njengoko kubonwe kwi-G7; injongo yayibonakala ikukufikelela kwimo edinayo ngolonwabo oluncinci lobuhle.
Kodwa kuthi abo bangavuli ii-oligarchs okanye bangathathi nxaxheba kwiiforam zoorhulumente, isuti yasehlotyeni lithuba lokuphumla size sizivumele sibuyele kwimeko esesikweni kancinci. Kufuneka siqwalasele oko sikunxibayo kwiipati zasegadini, kwimiboniso ye-opera evulekileyo, kwiintlanganiso zokhuphiswano, kwimidlalo yetenisi, nakwisidlo sasemini sangaphandle (icebiso eliluncedo: ukuba banikela ngento ekumgangatho ophezulu kuneeburger kunye nebhiya yeleyibhile yabucala, nceda uyeke iiShorts zezixhobo ezinombala wesamente...cinga ngayo, zilahle nje).
Iimpendulo zamadoda aseBritane malunga nehlobo elingaqhelekanga eliqatshelwayo ngamanye amaxesha zibonakala ngathi zimbini, kodwa kukho indlela enokutsalwa phakathi kweCharybdis enxibe iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane kunye neScylla enxibe iisuti zasehlotyeni, amadoda akhokelayo avela eDel Monte naseSandhill. Impumelelo idla ngokuba kukukhetha ilaphu ngendlela efanelekileyo.
Kwiminyaka embalwa edlulileyo, i-seersucker iye yalahla i-orthodox yemigca yayo eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka okanye ebomvu yaza yaphuma kwi-pupa njengebhabhathane elinemibala. “Ndenze iisuti ze-seersucker ezininzi zeWimbledon neGoodwood kulo nyaka kunakwiminyaka eli-10 edlulileyo. Ifumana uvuselelo lokwenyani, kuxhomekeke kumbala,” utshilo uTerry Haste waseKent & Haste, eSavile Street, okwangoku i-seersucker enemibala emininzi imbonisa uKen Kesey entliziyweni yakhe. “Kukho imigca eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka noluhlaza, eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka nogolide, eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka nomdaka, kunye nemigca yegridi kunye nesikwere.”
Omnye weenkokeli ze-seersucker ezinobuchule yiCacciopoli, umthengisi ngelaphu eNaples, kodwa i-seersucker ayiboneleli nje ngombala, kodwa ikwasusa neenkxalabo malunga nemibimbi: imibimbi yeyona nto ibalulekileyo; eneneni, ivuvukile, ikhululekile. Ewe, ifanelekile ukusetyenziswa ehlotyeni.
UMichael Hill kaDrake uthe yindlela ekulula ngayo ukunxiba ilinen kulo nyaka. “Into esiphumelele kakhulu yisuti yethu yelinen. Akukho nto itshintshayo ngemibala ephumeleleyo: i-navy, i-khaki, i-hazel, kunye necuba.” Kodwa umahluko kukuba wagxila kwinto ayibiza ngokuba yi-“game suit”, wayihlula kwi-“game suit” esesikweni.
“Kumalunga nokumkela i-crease. Awufuni ukuba nexabiso kakhulu, kwaye inyani yokuba ungayiphosa kumatshini wokuhlamba inceda ekwenzeni isuti ibe lula ngakumbi. Amadoda afuna ukunxiba ngendlela eyahlukileyo aze asike ngehempe yepolo okanye i-T-shirt ukuze aphule iiJackets kunye neebhulukhwe. Kule hlobo, sibona iindlela zokunxiba ezisezantsi kakhulu ezidibanisa iimpahla ezisesikweni kunye neempahla ezingasesikweni, iikepusi zebaseball ezintle ezindala kunye neebhulukhwe ezithambileyo zecanvas kunye neesuti. Yenza kakuhle, yi-dynamite.”
Inxalenye yesizathu sokucinga ngokutsha ngesuti kukuba uDrake akathengisi isuti yomdlalo njengesuti, kodwa njengento eyahlukileyo enokunxitywa njengesuti. Le ngqondo ebonakala ngathi ayivisisani, ithengisa isinxibo sasehlotyeni esiqhelekileyo njengeziqwenga ezibini ezihambelanayo ngokwahlukeneyo, ikwadlala indima kwiConnolly. Ibonelela ngenguqulelo engakrazuliyo, ethi umphathi weConnolly u-Isabel Ettedgui ayichaze njenge "technical seersucker."
“Sizithengisa njengeejakethi kunye neebhulukhwe ezithambileyo,” utshilo u-Ettedgui. “Amadoda ayakuthanda oku kuba ecinga ukuba angazithenga ngokwahlukeneyo, nokuba akakuthengi. Sizithengisele abantu abaneminyaka engama-23 ubudala kunye nabantu abaneminyaka engama-73 ubudala abathanda imibala eqhelekileyo kwaye abangazinxibi iikawusi.”
UZegna unebali elifanayo. Umlawuli wobugcisa u-Alessandro Sartori uchaze iisuti zakudala njengezithandwayo kubathengi abazenzela izinto zabo, “Banxiba iisuti ukuze bazithande.” . Ukulungela ukunxitywa yenye into. “Bathenga izinto ngabanye kumyili weempahla ophezulu, bakhethe itop okanye umsebenzi, baze benze isuti ehambelana nephezulu nesezantsi,” utshilo. Ilaphu lenziwe ngesilika ejijekileyo kunye ne-cashmere, kwaye umxube welinen, umqhaphu kunye nelinen usebenzisa iipastels ezintsha.
URubinacci, umthungi odumileyo waseNeapolitan, naye ngokucacileyo uguqukele kubuhle obuqhelekileyo. “ISafari Park yeyona iphumeleleyo kule hlobo kuba ikhululekile kwaye ilula,” utshilo uMariano Rubinacci. “Iyaphumla kuba ifana nehempe engenamikhono, kodwa inxitywa njengejakethi, ngoko ke ingaba sesikweni, kwaye zonke iipokotho zayo ziyasebenza.”
Ukuthetha ngempahla zakudala, ndinomona kakhulu ngejakethi yomqhaphu yaseMadras eyathengwa ngunyana wam omncinci kwimarike yasePortobello: impahla enamandla eProust evuselela umfanekiso weMelika ngexesha lika-Eisenhower. Okukhona itshekhi iqina, kokukhona ingcono. .. Kodwa ngeebhulukhwe ezingenanto.
KwanoHuntsman wenqaba enkulu yaseSavile Street uqaphele indlela ecacileyo yokwahlukana. UMlawuli woBuchule uCampbell Carey uthe: “Ngaphambi kweCovid, abantu babezimisele ngakumbi ukunxiba iijakethi zesuti kunye neebhulukhwe ezintle kwiintlanganiso.” “Kule hlobo, asinakuthengisa ngokwaneleyo iijakethi zesuti ezilukiweyo ezivulekileyo. Isakhiwo esilukiweyo sithetha ukuba zinokujijwa. Iza ngemibala eyahlukeneyo ukuze ikwazi ukusetyenziswa kakhulu kumxube wakho, kwaye ungayisusa ukuze umoya ungene kwaye uphume.” UCarey ukwanikezele ngento ayibiza ngokuba “zii-weekend cuts.” Isekwi-silhouette kaHuntsman; iingalo eziphakamileyo, iqhosha, kunye nesinqe, “kodwa umgca wamagxa uthambile kancinci, sithambise isakhiwo se-canvas, kwaye isakhiwo sangaphambili siyinto enye, sithatha indawo yeenwele zehashe [eziqinileyo].”
Ukuthetha ngeehempe, ingcinga kukwenza ubonakale ngathi unxibe ihempe evulekileyo, kunokuba uvela nje emngcwabeni we-mafia kwaye ukhawuleze ukhulule itayi yakho kwaye ukhulule ikhola yehempe yakho. Ingcebiso yam kukuba unxibe ihempe yelinen eqaqambileyo efana neBel yaseBarcelona. Ukwakhiwa kwayo akunabhanti yentamo kunye neqhosha eliphezulu, kodwa ukugqitywa kwayo ngaphakathi kubonakala kukuhle, kwaye ikhola iyaqhubeka nokuqengqeleka ngenxa yamaqhosha akwindawo yekhola.
Ukusuka apho, ungakhetha ngakumbi iihempe zeholide ezivulekileyo, ikhola luhlobo lwehempe enekhola yeLido eshunyayelwa ngumyili weempahla zamadoda uScott Fraser Simpson. Ukuba unomdla wokufuna izinto ezintsha, jonga iakhawunti ye-Instagram kaWei Koh, umsunguli weRake Tailored. Uchithe ixesha lokuvalelwa eSingapore, edibanisa inani elikhulu leesuti zakhe neehempe zaseHawaii waza wadubula iziphumo.
Lo mnyhadala uza kubuyela ngokwawo kuluhlu lwethu lwezithethi kunye nemixholo eKenwood House (nakwi-intanethi) nge-4 kaSeptemba. Ukufaka konke oku kuya kuba kukuvuselela umoya kunye nethuba lokuphinda ucinge ngehlabathi emva kobhubhane. Ukuze ubhukishe amatikiti, nceda undwendwele apha.
Kodwa nakweli xesha lanamhlanje lokukhululeka kokuthunga, kusekho amaxesha apho iihempe zaseHawaii zinokuthathwa njenge-de trop kwaye abantu banokukufumanisa kulula (okanye kungacacanga kangako) ukunxiba itayi; ngenxa yoku, itayi yesilika ephothiweyo yeyona ndlela ifanelekileyo. Liqabane elifanelekileyo lokuhamba, kuba xa lijijelwe libe yibhola kwaye lifakwe kwikona yesutikheyisi, aliyi kushwabana okanye liguquguquke. Nangona livakala liphikisana, libonakala likhululekile kakhulu - ukuba awundikholelwa, nceda ujonge kuGoogle umfanekiso kaDavid Hockney kunye netayi ephothiweyo, anokuyisebenzisa neebhulukhwe ezidaywe ngopende kunye nemikhono egoqiweyo.
Kuya kuba nomdla ukubona ukuba neetayi ezilukiweyo zingasinda na kwiziprofeto zikaHuntsman zikaCarey. Olu kwahlukana lusenendlela ende ekufuneka ihanjwe. Ukuba kweli hlobo malunga neblazer ekhawulezayo ene-mesh, ngoku ujika ingqalelo yakhe kwenye into yesuti eneziqwenga ezibini, kwaye ephefumlelwe luluhlu lweenketho ze-seersucker, usebenza kwinto ayibiza ngokuba luchungechunge "lweebhulukhwe ezimfutshane zefashoni". "Ziza kubakho kunyaka ozayo. "Ewe," utshilo, "kodwa ungenzi mpazamo, ijakethi yesuti kunye neebhulukhwe ezimfutshane zilapha."
Ixesha lokuthumela: Septemba-13-2021