Kuleli hlobo nasekwindla, ngaphambi kokuba abesifazane babuyele ehhovisi, kubonakala sengathi bathenga izingubo futhi bayaphuma bayohlangana futhi. Izingubo ezivamile, ama-top nama-sweater amahle, abesifazane, ama-jeans agqamile nama-jeans aqondile, kanye nama-shorts bekulokhu kuthengiswa kakhulu ezitolo.
Nakuba izinkampani eziningi ziqhubeka nokutshela abasebenzi ukuthi kudingeka baqale ukubuya, abathengisi bathi ukuthenga izingubo zomsebenzi akuyona into eza kuqala kumakhasimende.
Kunalokho, babone ukwanda kokuthengwa kwezingubo zokugqoka ngokushesha - emaphathini, emikhosini, ezindaweni zokubhaka inyama egcekeni, emakhefi angaphandle, ezidlweni zakusihlwa nabangani, kanye namaholide. Imidwebo egqamile nemibala ibalulekile ukuthuthukisa isimo sengqondo sabathengi.
Kodwa-ke, izingubo zabo zokusebenza zizobuyekezwa maduze, futhi abathengisi benze izibikezelo ezithile mayelana nokubonakala kweyunifomu entsha yehhovisi ekwindla.
I-WWD ixoxisane nabathengisi abakhulu ukuze ifunde ngokuthengisa ezindaweni zanamuhla kanye nemibono yabo ngendlela entsha yokugqoka ngendlela efanelekile.
“Ngokuphathelene nebhizinisi lethu, asimbonanga ethenga. Ugxile ekhabetheni lakhe eliqondile, ikhabethe lakhe lasehlobo. Asibonanga isidingo sezingubo zomsebenzi zendabuko siqala ukwanda,” kusho umthengisi omkhulu we-Intermix uDivya Mathur. Uthe inkampani ithengiswe yi-Gap Inc. enkampanini yangasese i-Altamont Capital Partners kule nyanga.
Uchaze ukuthi kusukela ngobhubhane lwangoMashi 2020, amakhasimende awazange athenge lutho entwasahlobo edlule. “Ngokuyisisekelo akakaze avuselele ikhabethe lakhe lesizini cishe iminyaka emibili. [Manje] usegxile ngokuphelele entwasahlobo,” uthe ugxile ekushiyeni ibhamuza lakhe, abuyele emhlabeni futhi adinge izingubo, kusho uMathur.
“Ufuna ingubo elula yasehlobo. Ingubo elula ye-poplin angayigqoka nama-sneakers. Ufuna nezingubo zeholide,” kusho yena. UMathur ukhombe ukuthi imikhiqizo efana noStaud, uVeronica Beard, uJonathan Simkhai kanye noZimmermann ingeminye yemikhiqizo emikhulu ethengiswayo njengamanje.
“Lokhu akusikho lokho afuna ukukuthenga manje. Uthe, 'Angijabule ngokuthenga enginakho kakade,'” esho. UMathur uthe ukuba mncane kuhlale kubalulekile ku-Intermix. “Ngokuphathelene nalokho okuthrendayo njengamanje, ufuna ngempela ukulingana kwakamuva. Kithina, lena yibhulukwe lebhulukwe elinezinqe eziphakeme elihamba ngqo emilenzeni, kanye nenguqulo yebhulukwe lebhulukwe lama-90s ekhululekile kancane. Sise-Re/done Brands njenge-AGoldE kanye ne-AGoldE senza kahle. Ibhulukwe lebhulukwe lebhulukwe le-AGoldE elihamba phambili lihlale lithengiswa kakhulu ngenxa yemininingwane yalo emisha ethakazelisayo. Amabhulukwe ebhulukwe lebhulukwe le-Re/done ayasha. Ngaphezu kwalokho, umphumela we-wash we-Moussy Vintage muhle kakhulu, futhi unezindlela ezithakazelisayo zokuphambukisa,” esho.
Amashothi angesinye isigaba esidumile. I-Intermix yaqala ukuthengisa amashothi e-denim ngoFebhuwari futhi isithengise amakhulu awo. “Sivame ukubona ukuphindaphindeka kwamashothi e-denim esifundeni esiseningizimu. Saqala ukubona lokhu kuphindaphindeka maphakathi noMashi, kodwa kwaqala ngoFebhuwari,” kusho uMather. Uthe konke lokhu kwenzelwa ukulingana kangcono futhi ukuthunga “kushisa kakhulu”.
“Kodwa uhlobo lwazo olukhululekile lude kancane. Zizwakala ziphukile futhi zisikiwe. Zihlanzekile futhi, zinde, futhi ukhalo lufana nesikhwama sephepha,” kusho yena.
Ngokuphathelene nezingubo zabo zomsebenzi, uthe amakhasimende akhe ahlala kude kakhulu noma axubile ehlobo. “Bahlela ukuqhubeka nokuphila ngokugcwele ngaphambi kobhubhane ekwindla.” Ubone ukunyakaza okuningi ezimpahleni ezithungiwe kanye namahembe alukiwe.
“Iyunifomu yakhe yamanje iyibhulukwe elihle kakhulu lebhulukwe lebhulukwe kanye nehembe elihle noma ijezi elihle.” Ezinye zezingubo abazithengisayo ziyizingubo zabesifazane ezivela e-Ulla Johnson nase-Sea New York. “Lezi zinhlobo ziyizingubo ezinhle ezilukiwe eziphrintiwe, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi ziphrintiwe noma zithungwe nge-crochet,” kusho yena.
Uma egqoke amabhulukwe ebhulukwe, amakhasimende akhe akhetha izindlela zokuwasha ezithakazelisayo nezitayela zokumfanela, kunokuba athi “Ngifuna ibhulukwe lebhulukwe elimhlophe.” Uhlobo lwebhulukwe lakhe alithandayo yibhulukwe elinemilenze eqondile elinokhalo olude.
UMathur uthe usathengisa izicathulo ezintsha nezemfashini. “Sibona ngempela ukwanda okukhulu ebhizinisini lezicathulo,” kusho yena.
“Ibhizinisi lethu lihle kakhulu. Lokhu kuyimpendulo enhle ngo-2019. Sizoqala ukuthuthukisa ibhizinisi lethu futhi. Sihlinzeka ngebhizinisi elingcono ngentengo ephelele kunango-2019,” kusho yena.
Ubone nokuthengiswa okushisayo kwezingubo zomcimbi. Amakhasimende abo awafuni izingubo zebhola. Uzoya emishadweni, emaphathini okuzalwa, emikhosini yokukhula kanye nasemikhosini yokuthweswa iziqu. Ufuna imikhiqizo eyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu kunezingubo ezivamile ukuze abe yisimenywa emshadweni. I-Intermix yabona isidingo sikaZimmermann. “Siziqhayisa ngakho konke esikulethe kulolo hlobo lomkhiqizo,” kusho uMather.
“Abantu banemisebenzi kuleli hlobo, kodwa abanazo izingubo zokugqoka. Izinga lokululama lishesha kunalokho ebesikulindele,” kusho yena. Lapho i-Intermix ithenga lesi sizini ngoSepthemba, bacabanga ukuthi kuzothatha isikhathi eside ukubuya. Yaqala ukubuya ngoMashi nango-Ephreli. “Sasikhathazekile kancane lapho, kodwa sikwazile ukuphishekela umkhiqizo,” kusho yena.
Sekukonke, izingubo zasemini ezisezingeni eliphezulu zibanga u-50% webhizinisi lalo. “Ibhizinisi lethu lemicimbi yangempela libanga u-5% kuya ku-8% webhizinisi lethu,” kusho yena.
Wanezela ngokuthi kwabesifazane abaseholidini, bazothenga i-LoveShackFancy ka-Agua Bendita kanye ne-Agua, lokhu kokugcina kuyizingubo zangempela zaseholidini.
URoopal Patel, iphini likamongameli omkhulu kanye nomqondisi wezemfashini eSaks Fifth Avenue, uthe: “Manje, abesifazane bayathenga nakanjani. Abesifazane abagqoki ngqo ukubuyela ehhovisi, kodwa ngenxa yempilo yabo. Baya kothenga ukuze bathenge izingubo ezindaweni zokudlela, noma badle i-brunch noma i-Lunch, noma bahlale ekhefini elingaphandle ukuze badle isidlo sakusihlwa.” Uthe bathenga “izingubo ezinhle, ezikhululekile, ezikhululekile, ezinempilo, nezinemibala engagijima futhi ithuthukise imizwa yabo.” Imikhiqizo edumile emkhakheni wanamuhla ifaka phakathi uZimmermann noTove. , uJonathan Simkhai no-ALC.
Ngokuphathelene namabhulukwe ebhulukwe, uPatel ubelokhu ekholelwa ukuthi amabhulukwe ebhulukwe anjengehembe elimhlophe. “Uma kukhona, uzakhela ikhabethe lakhe lebhulukwe ...
Ucabanga ukuthi i-denim isibe yingxenye yokudla kwakhe okuyisisekelo, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi uyaphuma ebusuku noma ushayela ucingo kulezi zinsuku. Ngesikhathi se-COVID-19, abesifazane bagqoka i-denim, ama-sweater amahle nezicathulo ezicwebezelayo.
“Ngicabanga ukuthi abesifazane bazohlonipha izinto ezivamile ze-denim, kodwa empeleni ngicabanga ukuthi abesifazane bazosebenzisa leli thuba ukugqoka kahle. Uma begqoka ama-jean nsuku zonke, akekho ofuna ukugqoka ama-jean. Ihhovisi empeleni lisinika ithuba lokugqoka izingubo zethu ezinhle kakhulu, izithende zethu eziphakeme kakhulu nezicathulo esizithandayo futhi sigqoke kahle,” kusho uPatel.
Uthe njengoba isimo sezulu sishintsha, amakhasimende awafuni ukugqoka amajakethi. “Ufuna ukubukeka emuhle, ufuna ukuzijabulisa. Sithengisa imibala ejabulisayo, sithengisa izicathulo ezicwebezelayo. Sithengisa amafulethi athakazelisayo,” kusho yena. “Abesifazane abathanda imfashini bakusebenzisa njengomkhosi wokuveza isitayela sabo. Kuwukuzizwa kahle ngempela,” kusho yena.
Umqondisi we-Bloomingdale's Women's okulungele ukugqokwa u-Arielle Siboni uthe: “Manje, sibona amakhasimende esabela emikhiqizweni eminingi ethi ‘thenga manje, gqoka manje’,” okuhlanganisa nezingubo zasehlobo nezeholide. “Kithina, lokhu kusho iziketi eziningi ezilula, amabhulukwe amafushane e-denim kanye nezingubo ze-poplin. Ukubhukuda nokufihla izimpahla kunamandla kakhulu kithi.”
“Ngokuphathelene nezingubo, izitayela eziningi ze-bohemian, i-crochet ne-poplin, kanye ne-midi ephrintiwe zisebenza kahle kithi,” kusho yena. Izingubo ze-ALC, i-Bash, i-Maje kanye ne-Sandro zithengiswa kahle kakhulu. Uthe leli khasimende belilokhu limkhumbula ngoba laligqoka amabhulukwe amaningi kanye nezingubo ezikhululekile uma lisekhaya. “Manje linesizathu sokuthenga,” enezela.
Esinye isigaba esinamandla ama-shorts. “Ama-shorts e-denim amahle kakhulu, ikakhulukazi avela ku-AGoldE,” kusho yena. Uthe: “Abantu bafuna ukuhlala bekhululekile, futhi abantu abaningi basasebenza emakhaya naku-Zoom. Ungase ungaboni ukuthi yini engaphansi.” Uthe zonke izinhlobo zama-shorts ziyathengiswa; ezinye zinemithungo emide yangaphakathi, ezinye zifushane.
Ngokuphathelene nezingubo zokubuyela ehhovisi, uSiboni uthe ubone inani lamajakethi esudi “likhula nakanjani, okuyinto ejabulisa kakhulu.” Uthe abantu sebeqala ukubuyela ehhovisi, kodwa ulindele ukuvuthwa okugcwele ekwindla. Imikhiqizo yasekwindla yaseBloomingdale izofika ekuqaleni kuka-Agasti.
Amabhulukwe ama-Skinny asathengiswa, okuyingxenye enkulu yebhizinisi labo. Wabona amabhulukwe e-denim ephenduka amabhulukwe anemilenze eqondile, okwaqala ukwenzeka ngaphambi kuka-2020. Amabhulukwe kamama nezinye izitayela zakudala ziyathengiswa. “I-TikTok iqinisa lolu shintsho esitayeleni esikhululekile,” kusho yena. Waphawula ukuthi amabhulukwe e-Rag & Bone e-Miramar ayeprintiwe esikrinini futhi ebukeka njengebhulukwe le-jeans, kodwa ayezwakala njengebhulukwe lezemidlalo.
Imikhiqizo ye-denim esebenze kahle ifaka phakathi uMother, u-AGoldE kanye no-AG. UPaige Mayslie ubelokhu ethengisa amabhulukwe okugijima ngemibala eyahlukene.
Endaweni ephezulu, ngoba phansi kukhululekile, ama-T-shirt abelokhu eqinile. Ngaphezu kwalokho, amahembe akhululekile e-bohemian, amahembe ase-prairie, kanye amahembe ane-lace ehlotshisiwe nama-eyelets nawo athandwa kakhulu.
USiboni uthe bathengisa nezingubo eziningi zakusihlwa ezithakazelisayo nezikhanyayo, izingubo ezimhlophe zomakoti kanye nezingubo zakusihlwa ezinhle ze-prom. Emishadweni yasehlobo, ezinye izingubo ezivela ku-Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua kanye neNookie zifaneleka kakhulu izivakashi. Uthe i-LoveShackFancy ngokuqinisekile igqoka izingubo ezisindayo, “zimangalisa kakhulu.” Banezingubo eziningi zeholide ze-bohemian kanye nezingubo ezingagqokwa eshaweni lomshado.
USiboni ukhombe ukuthi ibhizinisi lokubhalisa lomthengisi liqinile kakhulu, okubonisa ukuthi lo mbhangqwana uhlela kabusha izinsuku zawo zomshado futhi kunesidingo sezingubo zezivakashi nezomakoti.
UYumi Shin, usomabhizinisi oyinhloko waseBergdorf Goodman, uthe ngonyaka odlule, amakhasimende abo abe nokuguquguquka, ethenga imikhiqizo ekhethekile evelele kumafoni e-Zoom kanye nokuchitha imali ngokunethezeka komuntu siqu.
“Njengoba sibuyela esimweni esijwayelekile, sizizwa sinethemba. Ukuthenga ngokuqinisekile kuyinjabulo entsha. Hhayi nje kuphela ngokubuyela ehhovisi, kodwa futhi nokuhlangana nomndeni nabangane okulindelwe isikhathi eside abacabanga ngezinhlelo zokuhamba. Kumelwe kube nethemba,” kusho uShen.
Muva nje, babone isithakazelo ezimpahleni zothando, okuhlanganisa nezingubo ezigcwele noma imininingwane ye-ruffle. Uthe u-Ulla Johnson wenze kahle. “Ungumkhiqizo omuhle kakhulu futhi ukhuluma namakhasimende amaningi ahlukene,” kusho uShin, enezela ngokuthi yonke imikhiqizo yalo mkhiqizo idayiswa kahle. “Kumelwe ngisho ukuthi yena [uJohnson] uwubufakazi bobhubhane. Sithengisa iziketi ezinde, iziketi ezinde, futhi sesiqala ukubona iziketi ezimfushane. Udumile ngemidwebo yakhe, futhi sithengisa nama-jumpsuit akhe anombala oqinile. Amabhulukwe, i-jumpsuit enezimpiko eziluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka iyasisebenzela.”
Izingubo zemicimbi zingenye indlela ethandwayo. “Siyabona ngempela izingubo ziphinde zithandwa. Njengoba amakhasimende ethu eqala ukulungiselela imicimbi efana nemishado, imikhosi yokuthweswa iziqu, kanye nokuhlangana nabangani nomndeni, sibona izingubo zithengiswa kuwo wonke umuntu kusukela emicimbini evamile kuya kweminye, futhi ngisho nezingubo zomshado nazo seziphinde zathandwa,” kusho uShin.
Ngokuphathelene namabhulukwe amancane, uthe, “Amabhulukwe amancane azohlala eyinto ebalulekile ekhabetheni, kodwa siyayithanda imikhiqizo emisha esiyibonayo. Amabhulukwe afanelekile, amabhulukwe anemilenze eqondile kanye namabhulukwe amakhulu anemilenze ebanzi abelokhu ethandwa ngawo-90. Siyithanda kakhulu.” Uthe umkhiqizo okhethekile, i-Still Here, utholakala eBrooklyn, okhiqiza amabhulukwe amancane, apendwe ngesandla futhi alungiswe kahle, futhi wenza umsebenzi omuhle. Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-Totême yenze kahle, “Siphinde sithengise amabhulukwe amhlophe.” I-Totême inezingubo eziningi ezinhle zokuthunga kanye nezingubo, ezikhululekile.
Lapho ebuzwa ngeyunifomu entsha lapho abathengi bebuya ehhovisi, uthe: “Ngicabanga ukuthi ikhodi entsha yokugqoka izokhululeka futhi iguquguquke kakhudlwana. Induduzo isabalulekile, kodwa ngicabanga ukuthi izoshintshela ezitayeleni zokunethezeka zansuku zonke. Ngibone amasudi amaningi e-chic knitwear esiwathandayo.” Uthe ngaphambi kwekwindla, baqalise uhlobo olukhethekile lokuluka, uLisa Yang, oluphathelene kakhulu nokufanisa i-knitwear. Itholakala eStockholm futhi isebenzisa i-cashmere yemvelo. “I-chic kakhulu futhi isebenza kahle, futhi sithemba ukuthi izoqhubeka nokusebenza kahle. Ikhululekile kodwa iyathandeka.”
Wanezela ngokuthi wayebukele ukusebenza kwejazi, kodwa ekhululekile kakhulu. Uthe ukuguquguquka kanye nokuthunga kuzoba yisihluthulelo. “Abesifazane bazofuna ukuthatha izingubo zabo ekhaya baziyise ehhovisi ukuze bahlangane nabangani; kumele kube nokuguquguquka futhi kumfanele. Lokhu kuzoba yindlela entsha yokugqoka,” kusho yena.
ULibby Page, uMhleli Omkhulu Wokumaketha we-Net-a-porter, uthe: “Njengoba amakhasimende ethu ebheke phambili ekubuyeleni ehhovisi, sibona ushintsho kusuka ekugqokeni okuvamile kuya ezitayeleni ezithuthukisiwe. Ngokuphathelene nezitayela, sibona kuChloé, Zimmermann no-Isabel. Imidwebo kaMarant kanye namaphethini ezimbali zezingubo zabesifazane akhuphukile - lo ngumkhiqizo owodwa ophelele wezingubo zokusebenza zasentwasahlobo, futhi ofanelekela izinsuku ezifudumele nobusuku. Njengengxenye yomcimbi wethu we-HS21, sizokwethula i-'Chic in' ngoJuni 21 i-The Heat' igcizelela isimo sezulu esifudumele kanye nokugqoka ukuze ubuyele emsebenzini.”
Uthe uma kukhulunywa ngezitayela ze-denim, babona izitayela ezikhululekile, ezinkulu kanye nokwanda kwezitayela zamabhaluni, ikakhulukazi ngonyaka odlule, ngoba amakhasimende abo afuna induduzo kuzo zonke izici zekhabethe lakhe. Uthe amabhulukwe e-classic straight aseyisitayela esiguquguqukayo ekhabetheni, futhi uhlobo lwabo luye lwavumelana nalesi simo ngokufaka lesi sitayela eqoqweni laso eliyinhloko.
Lapho ebuzwa ukuthi ama-sneakers ayisinqumo sokuqala yini, uthe i-Net-a-porter yethule imibala emisha emhlophe kanye nezimo zakudala kanye nezitayela ehlobo, njengokubambisana kukaLoewe noMaison Margiela x Reebok.
Ngokuphathelene nokulindela kwakhe ngeyunifomu entsha yehhovisi kanye nemfashini entsha yezingubo zomphakathi, uPage uthe, “Imibala ekhanyayo evusa injabulo izoba yinto eyinhloko yentwasahlobo. Iqoqo lethu lakamuva le-Dries Van Noten elikhethekile libonisa ukungathathi hlangothi ngezitayela nezindwangu ezikhululekile. , Ubuhle obukhululekile nobujabulisayo obuhambisana nanoma yikuphi ukubukeka kwansuku zonke. Siphinde sibone ukuthandwa kwe-denim kuqhubeka nokwenyuka, ikakhulukazi ukwethulwa kwethu kwakamuva kokubambisana kwe-Valentino x Levi. Sithemba ukubona amakhasimende ethu egqoka ihhovisi lawo. Hlanganisa ne-denim ukuze udale ukubukeka okukhululekile kanye noshintsho oluphelele ephathini yesidlo sakusihlwa,” kusho yena.
Izinto ezidumile ku-Net-a-porter zifaka phakathi izinto ezidumile ezivela ku-Frankie Shop, njengejakhethi ezigoqiwe kanye nesudi yazo yezemidlalo ekhethekile ye-Net-a-porter; imiklamo ye-Jacquemus, njengeziketi neziketi ezinde, kanye nezingubo ezinde ezinemininingwane engcolile, izingubo zikaDoen zezimbali nezesifazane, kanye nezinto ezibalulekile zekhabethe lasentwasahlobo nehlobo likaTotême.
UMarie Ivanoff-Smith, umqondisi wemfashini yabesifazane eNordstrom, uthe amakhasimende anamuhla acabanga ukubuyela emsebenzini futhi aqala ukuzibandakanya ezindwangu ezilukiwe kanye nenani elikhulu lezindwangu zehembe. “Ziyakwazi ukushintshashintsha. Angazigqoka noma azigqoke kahle, angazigqoka manje, futhi angabuyela ehhovisi ngokuphelele ekwindla.
“Sibone ukubuya kokuthunga, hhayi nje kuphela ukubuyela emsebenzini, kodwa nokuphuma ebusuku, waqala ukuhlola lokhu.” Uthe uNordstrom usebenze kahle kakhulu noRag & Bone noNili Lotan, wathi “banendwangu yehembe engashintshi”. Uthe ukuphrinta nombala kubaluleke kakhulu. “IRio Farms iyabulala. Asikwazi ukuqhubeka. Lokhu kuyamangalisa,” kusho yena.
Uthe amakhasimende athambekele kakhulu ekubukeni komzimba futhi angabonisa isikhumba esiningi. “Kuyenzeka izimo zomphakathi,” kusho yena. Ukhulume ngezibonelo zabahlinzeki abafana no-Ulla Johnson abenza kahle esifundeni. Uphinde waveza ukuthi u-Alice + Olivia uzokwethula izingubo ezengeziwe zemicimbi yomphakathi. I-Nordstrom yenze umsebenzi omuhle ngemikhiqizo efana noTed Baker, Ganni, Staud kanye noCinq à Sept. Lo mthengisi wenza umsebenzi omuhle wezingubo zasehlobo.
Uthe wabona izingubo ezifanelana kahle ngonyaka odlule ngoba zikhululekile kakhulu. “Manje sibona izinsimbi nezimpempe zibuya nemidwebo emihle. Ngenjabulo nemizwa, phumani endlini,” kusho yena.
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Julayi-08-2021