Kuleli hlobo nasekwindla, ngaphambi kokuba abesifazane babuyele ehhovisi, babonakala bethenga izingubo futhi baphume bayohlanganyela futhi. Izingubo zokuphola, ama-tops amahle, abesifazane kanye nama-sweaters, i-jeans evuthayo kanye ne-jeans eqondile, nezikhindi bezithengiswa kahle ezitolo zokuthengisa.
Nakuba izinkampani eziningi zilokhu zitshela izisebenzi ukuthi kudingeka ziqale ukubuya, abathengisi bathi ukuthenga izingubo zokusebenza akuyona into ehamba phambili ekhasimendeni.
Kunalokho, baye babona ukwanda okukhulu ekuthengeni izingubo abazozigqoka ngokushesha lapho beya emaphathini, emikhosini, ezindaweni zokosa inyama, amakhefi angaphandle, izidlo zakusihlwa nabangane, namaholidi. Ukuphrinta okukhanyayo nemibala kubalulekile ukuthuthukisa isimo sengqondo sabathengi.
Kodwa-ke, ama-wardrobes abo omsebenzi azobuyekezwa maduze, futhi abathengisi benze izibikezelo ezithile mayelana nokubukeka kwezingubo ezintsha zehhovisi ekwindla.
I-WWD ixoxisane nabathengisi abakhulu ukuze bafunde ngokuthengisa ezindaweni zamanje kanye nemibono yabo ngendlela entsha yokugqoka ebuyela emhlabeni.
"Mayelana nebhizinisi lethu, asizange simbone lapho ethenga. Ugxile ekhabetheni lakhe eliqondile, ikhabethe lakhe lasehlobo. Asikasiboni isidingo sezingubo zendabuko," kusho umthengisi omkhulu we-Intermix u-Divya Mathur ukuthi inkampani idayiswe yi-Gap Inc. enkampanini yamasheya ezimele i-Altamont Capital Partners kule nyanga.
Uchaze ukuthi kusukela ngobhubhane lwangoMashi 2020, amakhasimende awakaze athenge entwasahlobo edlule. "Empeleni akakavuseleli ikhabethe lakhe lesizini cishe iminyaka emibili. [Manje] usegxile entwasahlobo ngo-100%," uthe ugxile ekushiyeni ibhamuza lakhe, abuyele emhlabeni futhi edinga izingubo, kusho uMathur.
"Ufuna ingubo yasehlobo elula. Ingubo ye-poplin elula angayigqoka namateku. Uphinde afune izingubo zeholide," esho. UMathur uveze ukuthi amabhrendi afana noStaud, Veronica Beard, Jonathan Simkhai kanye noZimmermann angeminye yemikhiqizo emikhulu edayiswayo njengamanje.
“Akuyona into afuna ukuyithenga manje, wathi, ‘Angijabulile ngokuthenga lokho engivele nginakho,’” esho. UMathur uthe ukuzaca kubalulekile njalo ku-Intermix. "Mayelana nokuthi yini ethrendayo njengamanje, ufuna ngempela okumfanelayo kwakamuva. Kithina, leli ibhulukwe elinokhalo oluphakeme eligijima liqonde emilenzeni, kanye nenguqulo yedenim exege kancane yama-90s. Sise-Re/done Brands efana ne-AGoldE kanye ne-AGoldE aqhuba kahle. I-AGoldE's cross-front Imininingwane ihlale ine-ancredim ethakazelisayo. Ama-skinny jeans ka-Re/done ayavutha Ngaphezu kwalokho, ukuwasha kuka-Moussy Vintage Umphumela muhle kakhulu, futhi unamaphethini athakazelisayo okuketula.
Okufushane ngesinye isigaba esidumile. I-Intermix iqale ukudayisa izikhindi zedenim ngoFebhuwari futhi isidayise amakhulukhulu azo. "Sijwayele ukubona ukuphindaphinda kwezikhindi zedenim esifundeni esiseningizimu. Siqale ukubona lokhu kushintshaniswa kabusha maphakathi no-March, kodwa kwaqala ngoFebhuwari," kusho uMather. Uthe konke lokhu kwenzelwa ukumlingana kangcono kanti ukuthunga “kuyashisa kakhulu”.
"Kodwa inguqulo yabo exekethile yinde kancane. Izwakala iphukile futhi isikiwe. Futhi ihlanzekile, inde, futhi ukhalo lufana nesikhwama sephepha," esho.
Mayelana namawodilophu abo omsebenzi, uthe amakhasimende akhe aqhelelene kakhulu noma axutshwe ehlobo. "Bahlela ukuqhubeka nempilo ngokugcwele ngaphambi kwalolu bhubhane ekwindla." Wabona kunyakaza okuningi ngezingubo ezilukiweyo namahembe alukiwe.
“Umfaniswano wakhe wamanje yibhulukwe elihle kakhulu nehembe elihle noma ijezi elihle.” Ezinye zezinto eziphezulu abazidayisayo ezabesifazane ngu-Ulla Johnson noSea New York. “Lezi zinhlobo zingaphezulu ezinhle eziphrintiwe ezilukiwe, noma ngabe imininingwane ephrintiwe noma ekhiloshiwe, esho.
Lapho egqoke amajini, amakhasimende akhe akhetha izindlela zokuwasha ezithakazelisayo nezitayela ezifanele, kunokuthi “Ngifuna ibhulukwe elimhlophe.” Inguqulo yakhe ye-denim ayikhethayo yibhulukwe lemilenze eqondile enokhalo oluphezulu.
UMathur uthe usadayisa amateku asemfashinini anoveli. “Sibona ukukhula okukhulu ebhizinisini lezimbadada,” kusho yena.
"Ibhizinisi lethu lihle kakhulu. Lokhu kuyimpendulo enhle ku-2019. Sizoqala ukuthuthukisa ibhizinisi lethu futhi. Sihlinzeka ngebhizinisi elinamanani agcwele angcono kunango-2019," kusho yena.
Uphinde wabona ukuthengiswa okushisayo kwezingubo zomcimbi. Amakhasimende abo awafuni izingubo zebhola. Uzohambela imishado, amaphathi ezinsuku zokuzalwa, emicimbini yokufika yobudala kanye nemicimbi yokuthweswa iziqu. Ufuna imikhiqizo esezingeni eliphezulu kunezingubo zokuphola ukuze abe yisivakashi emshadweni. I-Intermix yabona isidingo sikaZimmermann. “Sizishaya isifuba ngakho konke esikulethe ngalolo mkhiqizo,” kusho uMather.
“Abantu banemisebenzi kuleli hlobo, kodwa abanazo izingubo zokugqoka, izinga lokululama liyashesha kunalokho ebesikulindele,” kusho yena. Ngenkathi i-Intermix ithenga le sizini ngoSepthemba, bacabanga ukuthi kuzothatha isikhathi eside ukubuya. Yaqala ukubuya ngoMashi no-April. “Besinovalo kancane lapho, kodwa sikwazile ukujaha umkhiqizo,” kusho yena.
Sekukonke, ukugqokwa kosuku oluphezulu kuhlanganisa ama-50% ebhizinisi lakho. “Ibhizinisi lethu lezehlakalo’ lithatha u-5% kuya ku-8% webhizinisi lethu,” kusho yena.
Wengeze ngokuthi kwabesifazane abaseholidini, bazothenga i-LoveShackFancy ka-Agua Bendita kanye ne-Agua, okokugcina kube izingubo zangempela zeholide.
URoopal Patel, iphini likamongameli omkhulu nomqondisi wengqephu e-Saks Fifth Avenue, uthe: “Manje, abesifazane bayathenga nakanjani. Wathi bathenga “izingubo ezinhle, ezikhululekile, ezikhululekile, ezijabulisayo nezinemibalabala ezingagijima zithuthukise isimo sabo sengqondo.” Imikhiqizo edumile emkhakheni wesimanje ihlanganisa u-Zimmermann no-Tove. , Jonathan Simkhai kanye ne-ALC.
Ngokuqondene ne-jean, u-Patel ubelokhu ekholelwa ukuthi i-jeans e-skinny ifana nesikibha esimhlophe. "Uma kukhona, uzakhela ikhabethe lakhe ledenim. Ubheka okhalo oluphakeme, ama-bell bottoms angama-70s, imilenze eqondile, amawasha ahlukene, ama-boy cut cut. Noma ngabe i-denim emhlophe noma i-denim emnyama, noma idolo Izimbobo ezidabukile, kanye nenhlanganisela yamajakhethi namajini ahambisanayo nezinye izingubo ezifanayo," kusho yena.
Ucabanga ukuthi i-denim isiyingxenye yokudla kwakhe okuyisisekelo, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi uhamba ebusuku noma ushaya ucingo kulezi zinsuku. Ngesikhathi se-COVID-19, abesifazane bagqoka idenim, amajezi amahle nezicathulo ezipholishiwe.
"Ngicabanga ukuthi abesifazane bazohlonipha izici ezingavamile ze-denim, kodwa empeleni ngicabanga ukuthi abesifazane bazosebenzisa leli thuba ukuze bagqoke kahle. Uma begqoka i-jeans nsuku zonke, akekho ofuna ukugqoka i-jeans. Ihhovisi empeleni lisinika ithuba lokugqoka izingubo zethu ezinhle kakhulu Ezinhle, izithende zethu ezinde kunazo zonke nezicathulo esizithandayo futhi sigqoke kahle, "kusho uPatel.
Uthe njengoba isimo sezulu sishintsha amakhasimende awafuni ukugqoka amajakhethi. “Ufuna ukubukeka emuhle, ufuna ukuzijabulisa, sidayisa imibala ethokozisayo, sidayisa izicathulo ezicwebezelayo. “Abesifazane abathanda imfashini bawusebenzisa njengomgubho ukuze baveze isitayela sabo siqu.
Umqondisi wezokugqoka ezilungele ukugqokwa eBloomingdale u-Arielle Siboni uthe: “Manje, sibona amakhasimende esabela ekuthengeni okwengeziwe manje, gqokani imikhiqizo yamanje,” okuhlanganisa nezimpahla zasehlobo nezamaholide. "Kithina, lokhu kusho iziketi eziningi ezilula ezinde, izikhindi zedenim nezingubo ze-poplin. Ukubhukuda nokufihla kunamandla ngempela kithi."
“Ngokwezingubo zokugqoka, izitayela eziningi ze-bohemian, i-crochet ne-poplin, ne-midi ephrintiwe kusisebenzela kahle,” kusho yena. Izingubo ze-ALC, Bash, Maje kanye ne-Sandro zithengiswa kahle kakhulu. Uthe leli khasimende belilokhu limkhumbula ngoba ubegqoka ibhulukwe eliningi nezimpahla ezintofontofo uma esekhaya. “Manje unesizathu sokuthenga,” enezela.
Esinye isigaba esiqinile izikhindi. “Izikhindi zedenim zinhle kakhulu, ikakhulukazi kwa-AGoldE,” kusho yena. Uthe: “Abantu bafuna ukuzihlalela nje, futhi abantu abaningi basasebenza emakhaya nase-Zoom. Uthe zonke izinhlobo zezikhindi ziyadayiswa; ezinye zinemithungo emide yangaphakathi, Ezinye izikhindi.
Mayelana nezimpahla ezibuyela ehhovisi, uSiboni uthe ubone isibalo samajakhethi esudi “sikhula nakanjani, okuyinto ejabulisa kakhulu.” Uthe abantu sebeqalile ukubuyela ehhovisi, kodwa ulindele ukuvuthwa okugcwele ekwindla. Imikhiqizo yasekwindla yaseBloomingdale izofika ekuqaleni kuka-Agasti.
Ama-Skinny jeans asathengiswa, okuyingxenye enkulu yebhizinisi labo. Wabona i-denim iphenduka ibhulukwe lemilenze eqondile, okwaqala ukwenzeka ngaphambi kuka-2020. Amajini kamama nezitayela ze-retro ezengeziwe ziyathengiswa. "I-TikTok iqinisa lolu shintsho lube yisitayela esixegayo," kusho yena. Waqaphela ukuthi ijini lika-Rag & Bone lika-Miramar laliphrintiwe futhi libukeka njengebhulukwe lezemidlalo.
Imikhiqizo ye-denim esebenze kahle ihlanganisa i-Mother, i-AGoldE ne-AG. UPaige Mayslie ubedayisa amabhulukwe okugijima anemibala eyahlukene.
Endaweni engaphezulu, ngenxa yokuthi phansi kuyinto engavamile, ama-T-shirts abelokhu eqinile. Ngaphezu kwalokho, amahembe e-bohemian axegayo, amahembe e-prairie, namahembe anezintambo ezifekethisiwe nama-eyelets nawo athandwa kakhulu.
USiboni uthe baphinde badayise izingubo zakusihlwa eziningi ezithokozisayo nezigqamile, izingubo ezimhlophe zomakoti nezingubo zakusihlwa zikanokusho ze-prom. Emishadweni yasehlobo, ezinye izingubo ezivela ku-Alice + Olivia, Cinq à Sept, Aqua noNookie zifaneleka kakhulu izivakashi. Uthe i-LoveShackFancy igqoke izingubo ezisindayo, "iyamangalisa kakhulu." Futhi banezingubo eziningi zeholide ze-bohemian nezingubo ezingagqokwa eshaweni yomshado.
USiboni uveze ukuthi ibhizinisi lokubhalisa labadayisi linamandla kakhulu, okukhombisa ukuthi abashadikazi sebezichaza kabusha izinsuku zabo zomshado futhi kunesidingo sempahla yesivakashi nomakoti.
U-Yumi Shin, usomabhizinisi omkhulu waseBergdorf Goodman, uthe ngonyaka odlule, amakhasimende abo abelokhu eguquguquka, ethenga imikhiqizo ekhethekile egqama kumafoni e-Zoom kanye ne-splurge yomuntu siqu.
"Njengoba sibuyela esimweni esijwayelekile, sizizwa sinethemba. Ukuthenga nakanjani kuyinjabulo entsha. Hhayi nje ukubuyela ehhovisi, kodwa nokuhlangana okudala kulindelwe nomndeni nabangane abacabanga ngezinhlelo zokuhamba. Kumelwe kube nethemba," kusho u-Shen.
Muva nje, babone isithakazelo kuma-silhouette othando, okuhlanganisa imikhono egcwele noma imininingwane ye-ruffle. Uthe u-Ulla Johnson wenze kahle. "Ungumkhiqizo omuhle kakhulu futhi ukhuluma namakhasimende amaningi ahlukene," kusho uShin, wengeza ngokuthi yonke imikhiqizo yomkhiqizo ithengiswa kahle. "Kufanele ngisho ukuthi yena [uJohnson] uwubufakazi balolu bhubhane. Sithengisa iziketi ezinde, iziketi ezibude bumaphakathi, futhi sesiqala ukubona iziketi ezimfishane. Udume ngama-prints akhe, futhi sidayisa nama-jumpsuits akhe anombala oqinile. Amabhulukwe, i-navy blue pleated jumpsuit iyasidlalela."
Izingubo zezikhathi zingesinye isigaba esidumile. "Nakanjani sibona izingubo ziqala ukuduma futhi. Njengoba amakhasimende ethu eqala ukulungiselela imicimbi efana nemishado, imicimbi yokuthweswa iziqu, nokuhlangana nabangane nomndeni, sibona izingubo ezithengiswayo zithengiswa kusukela ezikhathini ezingavamile kuya kwezinye izikhathi, ngisho nezingubo zomshado sezidumile futhi," kusho uShin.
Mayelana ne-skinny jeans, uthe, "I-skinny jeans iyohlale iyinto okufanele ibe nayo ku-wardrobe, kodwa sithanda imikhiqizo emisha esiyibonayo. I-denim efakwe, amabhulukwe emilenze eqondile kanye namabhulukwe anemilenze ebanzi enokhalo oluphakeme bekudumile ngeminyaka yawo-90. Siyithanda kakhulu impela." Uthe uhlobo olukhethekile, i-Still Here, lutholakala e-Brooklyn, olukhiqiza i-batch denim encane, ependwe ngesandla yaphinde yapeshwa, futhi yenza umsebenzi omuhle. Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-Totême yenza kahle, “Sidayisa nama-denim amhlophe.” I-Totême inezingubo eziningi zokuluka ezinhle nezingubo, ezingajwayelekile.
Lapho ebuzwa ngemifaniswano emisha lapho abathengi bebuyela ehhovisi, uthe: “Ngicabanga ukuthi indlela entsha yokugqoka izokhululeka futhi ivumelane nezimo. Ukunethezeka kusabalulekile, kodwa ngicabanga ukuthi kuzoshintshela ezindleleni zikanokusho zansuku zonke. Thina ngibone amasudi amaningi e-chic knitwear esiwathandayo.” Uthe ngaphambi kokuwa, bethule uhlobo lokunitha olukhethekile, uLisa Yang, olumayelana nokumataniswa kwezingubo zokugqoka. Itholakala eStockholm futhi isebenzisa i-cashmere yemvelo. "Inhle kakhulu futhi yenza kahle, futhi sithemba ukuthi izoqhubeka nokwenza kahle. Inethezekile kodwa imnandi."
Wengeze ngokuthi ubebuka ukusebenza kwejakhethi, kodwa ekhululekile. Uthe ukuguquguquka nokuthunga kuzoba wukhiye. "Abesifazane bazofuna ukuthatha izingubo zabo emakhaya baye ehhovisi ukuze bahlangane nabangane; kumele kube nezinto ezihlukahlukene futhi ezilungele yena. Lokhu kuzoba indlela entsha yokugqoka," esho.
U-Libby Page, Umhleli Omkhulu Wezokumaketha we-Net-a-porter, uthe: "Njengoba amakhasimende ethu ebheke ngabomvu ukubuyela ehhovisi, sibona ushintsho kusuka ekugqokeni okungajwayelekile ukuya ezitayeleni ezithuthuke kakhulu. Mayelana nezitayela, sibona kusukela ku-Chloé, Zimmermann kanye no-Isabel. Amaphrinti kaMarant namaphethini ezimbali ezigqokweni zabesifazane anyukile-lesi ntwasahlobo njengengxenye yezinsuku ezifudumele zezingubo zasebusuku futhi zifaneleka kakhulu izingubo zethu zasebusuku. Umcimbi we-HS21, sizokwethula i-'Chic in' ngoJuni 21 I-The Heat' igcizelela isimo sezulu esifudumele nokugqoka ukuze ubuyele emsebenzini.”
Uthe uma kukhulunywa ngezitayela ze-denim babona izitayela ezixegayo, ezinkudlwana nokwanda kwezitayela zamabhaluni, ikakhulukazi ngonyaka odlule, ngenxa yokuthi amakhasimende abo afuna ukunethezeka kuzo zonke izici zekhabethe lakhe. Uthe i-jeans eqondile yakudala isiphenduke isitayela esiguquguqukayo ekhabetheni, futhi uhlobo lwabo luzivumelanise nalesi simo ngokungeza lesi sitayela eqoqweni layo eliyinhloko.
Lapho ebuzwa ukuthi amateki awakhethayo yini okokuqala, wathi i-Net-a-porter yethule amathoni amasha amhlophe kanye nomumo we-retro nezitayela ehlobo, njengokuhlanganyela kuka-Loewe no-Maison Margiela x Reebok.
Ngokuqondene nalokho akulindele ngomfaniswano omusha wasehhovisi kanye nemfashini entsha yezingubo zomphakathi, u-Page uthe, “Imibala egqamile evusa injabulo izoba inkomba yentwasahlobo. ngokubambisana
Izinto ezidumile ku-Net-a-porter zifaka phakathi izinto ezidumile ezivela e-Frankie Shop, njengamajakhethi aphediwe kanye nesudi yabo yezemidlalo ye-Net-a-porter ekhethekile; Imiklamo ka-Jacquemus, efana neziqongo neziketi, nezingubo ezinde ezinemininingwane engcolile, izingubo zezimbali nezabesifazane zika-Doen, kanye nezinto ezibalulekile zekhabethe lentwasahlobo nelasehlobo lika-Totême.
UMarie Ivanoff-Smith, umqondisi wengqephu yabesifazane eNordstrom, uthe amakhasimende amanje acabanga ukubuyela emsebenzini futhi aseqala ukuzibandakanya nezindwangu ezilukiwe kanye nenani elikhulu lezindwangu zamahembe. Ayakwazi ukugqoka noma agqoke, agqoke manje, futhi angabuyela ehhovisi ngokuphelele ekwindla.
"Sibone ukubuya kokwelukiweyo, hhayi ukuthi sibuyele emsebenzini kuphela, kodwa siphume ebusuku, wabe eseqala ukubheka lokhu." Uthe i-Nordstrom isebenze kahle kakhulu ne-Rag & Bone kanye no-Nili Lotan, futhi wathi “banendwangu yehembe Elihle”. Wathi ukuphrinta nombala kubaluleke kakhulu. "I-Rio Farms iyayibulala. Asikwazi ukuqhubeka. Lokhu kuhle kakhulu," kusho yena.
Uthe amakhasimende athambekele kakhulu kuma-contours omzimba futhi angakhombisa isikhumba esiningi. “Izimo zenhlalo ziyenzeka,” kusho yena. Ubalule izibonelo zabaphakeli abafana no-Ulla Johnson abenza kahle esifundeni. Uphinde waveza ukuthi u-Alice + Olivia bazokwethula izingubo eziningi zokugqoka emicimbini yokuzijabulisa. I-Nordstrom yenze umsebenzi omuhle ngemikhiqizo efana no-Ted Baker, Ganni, Staud kanye no-Cinq à Sept. Lo mthengisi wenza umsebenzi omuhle wezingubo zasehlobo.
Uthe ubone izingubo zokugqoka ezihambisana nayo yonke imidlalo zenziwa kahle ngonyaka odlule ngoba zintofontofo. "Manje sibona izinsimbi namakhwela kubuya nemibhalo emihle. Ngenjabulo nemizwa, phuma endlini," kusho yena.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jul-08-2021