I-polyester ne-nylon yizinto ezisetshenziswa kakhulu embonini yemfashini, ikakhulukazi emkhakheni wezingubo zezemidlalo. Kodwa-ke, zingenye yezinto ezimbi kakhulu ngokwezindleko zemvelo. Ingabe ubuchwepheshe bokwengeza bungaxazulula le nkinga?
Uhlobo lwe-Definite Articles lwasungulwa ngu-Aaron Sanandres, umsunguli kanye ne-CEO yenkampani yehembe i-Untuckit. Lwaqalwa ngenyanga edlule ngenhloso: ukudala iqoqo lezingubo zemidlalo elihlala isikhathi eside kusukela emasokisini. Indwangu yamasokisi yakhiwe yi-nylon ehlala isikhathi eside engu-51%, ikotini engu-23% ye-BCI, i-polyester evuselelwe kabusha engu-23% kanye ne-spandex engu-3%. Lwenziwe ngezithasiselo ze-Ciclo granular, ezinikeza izakhiwo ezihlukile: isivinini sazo sokuwohloka singokwemvelo njengemvelo. Izinto ziyafana emanzini olwandle, ezitshalweni zokuhlanza amanzi amdaka nasezindaweni zokulahla udoti, kanye nemicu efana noboya.
Ngesikhathi sobhubhane, umsunguli waphawula ukuthi wayegqoka amasokisi ezemidlalo ngesivinini esikhulu. Ngokusekelwe kokuhlangenwe nakho kwakhe e-Untuckit, inkampani yagubha iminyaka eyishumi emakethe ngenyanga edlule kwathi iSanandres yadluliselwa kolunye uhlobo olunesimo sokusimama esiyinhloko. “Uma ucabanga ngesilinganiso sokusimama, i-carbon footprint iyingxenye yaso, kodwa ukungcola kwemvelo kungenye ingxenye,” esho. “Ngokomlando, izingubo zokusebenza bezimbi kakhulu emvelweni ngenxa yokuvuza kwamapulasitiki nama-microplastic emanzini lapho kugezwa izingubo. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, kuzothatha amakhulu eminyaka ukuthi i-polyester ne-nylon zibole.”
Esinye sezizathu eziyinhloko zokuthi kungani amapulasitiki engakwazi ukuwohloka ngesivinini esifanayo nemicu yemvelo ukuthi ayinayo isakhiwo esifanayo sama-molecule avulekile. Kodwa-ke, ngezithasiselo ze-Ciclo, izigidi zamabala abolayo akhiqizwa esakhiweni sepulasitiki. Amagciwane akhona ngokwemvelo ngaphansi kwezimo ezingenhla angawohloka imicu, njengemicu yemvelo. Njengoba kushiwo kuwebhusayithi yayo, i-Definite Articles ifake isicelo sesitifiketi se-B Corp. Ihlose ukugcina ukukhiqizwa kwendawo ngeketanga lokuhlinzeka elitholakala eNyakatho Melika kuphela kanye nokusetshenziswa kwemithetho yokuziphatha yabaphakeli.
U-Andrea Ferris, umsunguli wenkampani yezithako zepulasitiki iCiclo, ubelokhu esebenza kulobu buchwepheshe iminyaka eyi-10. “Ama-microbes ahlala ngokwemvelo endaweni lapho ipulasitiki iyinto eyinhloko engcolile azodonseka ngoba empeleni iwumthombo wokudla. Angakha izinto ezisebenzayo ezintweni futhi abole ngokuphelele izinto. Uma ngithi ukubola, engikushoyo ukuthi Kuwukubola kwezinto eziphilayo; angaphula isakhiwo sama-molecule e-polyester, bese egaya ama-molecule futhi abole ngempela izinto eziphilayo.”
Imicu yokwenziwa ingenye yezinkinga ezinkulu imboni ezama ukuzixazulula ngenxa yomthelela wayo kwezemvelo. Ngokusho kombiko ovela kwi-Sustainable Solutions Accelerator Changing Markets ngoJulayi 2021, kuba nzima kakhulu ngemikhiqizo yemfashini ukuqeda ukuthembela kwayo emicu yokwenziwa. Lo mbiko uhlola izinhlobo ezahlukene zemikhiqizo, kusukela ku-Gucci kuya emikhiqizweni yokunethezeka efana ne-Zalando ne-Forever 21. Ngokuphathelene nezingubo zezemidlalo, iningi lemikhiqizo yezemidlalo ehlaziywe embikweni—kufaka phakathi i-Adidas, i-ASICS, i-Nike, ne-Reebok—ibike ukuthi iningi lamaqoqo ayo lisekelwe ezintweni zokwenziwa. Lo mbiko uthe “abazange babonise ukuthi bahlela ukunciphisa lesi simo.” Kodwa-ke, ukwamukelwa kabanzi kwentuthuko yezinto ezibonakalayo kanye nokuvuleleka emisha ngesikhathi sobhubhane kungase kushukumise imakethe yezingubo zezemidlalo ukuthi itshale imali ezixazululweni zezinkinga zayo zemicu yokwenziwa.
I-Ciclo ike yasebenza nemikhiqizo ehlanganisa i-Cone Denim, uhlobo lwe-denim lwendabuko, futhi isebenza kanzima ukwandisa imakethe yezindwangu. Kodwa-ke, noma ngabe izivivinyo zesayensi zinikezwa kwiwebhusayithi yayo, intuthuko iye yahamba kancane. “Sasungula i-Ciclo embonini yezindwangu esikhathini esingeside esidlule ehlobo lika-2017,” kusho uFerris. “Uma ucabanga ukuthi ngisho nobuchwepheshe obuhlolwe ngokugcwele buthatha iminyaka ukuthi busetshenziswe ochungechungeni lokuhlinzeka, akumangazi ukuthi kuthatha isikhathi eside kangaka. Ngisho noma kungubuchwepheshe obaziwayo, wonke umuntu uyaneliseka, kodwa kuzothatha iminyaka eminingana ukungena ochungechungeni lokuhlinzeka.” Ngaphezu kwalokho, izithasiselo zingangeniswa kuphela ekuqaleni kochungechunge lokuhlinzeka, okunzima ukukusebenzisa ngezinga elikhulu.
Kodwa-ke, intuthuko yenziwe ngokuqoqwa komkhiqizo okuhlanganisa ne-Definite Articles. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, i-Definite Articles izokwandisa imikhiqizo yayo yokugqoka okusebenzayo ngonyaka ozayo. Embikweni we-Synthetics Anonymous, inkampani yezingubo zezemidlalo i-Puma nayo ithe iyaqaphela ukuthi izinto zokwenziwa ziyingxenye yezinto zayo zendwangu. Isebenza ukunciphisa kancane kancane isilinganiso se-polyester eyisebenzisayo, okubonisa ukuthi izingubo zezemidlalo zinganciphisa ukuncika kwayo ezintweni zokwenziwa. Lokhu kungase kuholele ekushintsheni embonini.
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Disemba 30-2021