Ua leo nui a akāka ka leka i hōʻike ʻia e nā mea kūʻai aku: ma ke ao ma hope o ke ahulau, ʻo ka ʻoluʻolu a me ka hana ka mea a lākou e ʻimi nei. Ua lohe nā mea hana lole i kēia kāhea a ke pane nei i nā mea like ʻole a me nā huahana e hoʻokō ai i kēia mau pono.
No nā makahiki he ʻumi, ʻo nā lole hana kiʻekiʻe ke kumu nui i nā lole haʻuki a me waho, akā i kēia manawa, ke hoʻohana nei nā huahana āpau mai nā ʻaʻahu haʻuki kāne a hiki i nā lole wahine i nā lole me nā ʻano loea: ka hoʻohemo ʻana i ka makū, ka deodorization, ke anuanu, a pēlā aku.
ʻO kekahi o nā alakaʻi ma kēia ʻaoʻao o ka mākeke ʻo Schoeller, kahi hui Swiss i hoʻi i ka makahiki 1868. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Stephen Kerns, ka pelekikena o Schoeller USA, ke ʻimi nei nā mea kūʻai aku o kēia wā i nā lole e hiki ke hoʻokō i nā koi he nui.
"Makemake lākou e hana maikaʻi, a makemake pū lākou i ka versatility," wahi āna. "Ua hele nā lama waho i laila ʻaʻole i lōʻihi loa, akā i kēia manawa ke ʻike nei mākou i ke koi no [nā lama lole kuʻuna]." ʻOiai ʻo Schoeller "ke hana nei me nā lama palena ʻāina e like me Bonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers lāua ʻo Ralph Lauren," wahi āna ʻo kēia "haʻuki hele wāwae" hou i loaʻa mai nā haʻuki a me ka leʻaleʻa e lawe mai ana i ka hoihoi i nā lole me nā ʻano loea.
I Iune, ua hoʻolauna ʻo Schoeller i kekahi mau mana hou o kāna huahana no ka pūnāwai o 2023, me Dryskin, he lole hoʻolōʻihi ʻelua ala i hana ʻia me ka polyester hana hou ʻia a me ka ʻenehana Ecorepel Bio. Hiki iā ia ke lawe i ka makū a pale aku i ka ʻānai ʻana. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia no nā lole haʻuki a me ke ʻano o ka nohona.
Wahi a ka ʻoihana, ua hoʻomaikaʻi ka ʻoihana i kāna Schoeller Shape, kahi lole i hui ʻia me ka pulupulu i hana ʻia mai ka polyamide hana hou ʻia e hana like ana ma nā kahua kolepa a me nā alanui o ke kūlanakauhale. Loaʻa iā ia kahi hopena ʻelua-leo e hoʻomanaʻo ana i ka denim kahiko a me ka ʻenehana 3XDry Bio. Eia kekahi, aia kekahi lole ripstop Softight, i hoʻolālā ʻia no nā lole i hana ʻia me ka polyamide hana hou ʻia, i hana ʻia me ka ʻenehana Ecorepel Bio, me ke kiʻekiʻe o ka pale ʻana i ka wai a me ka ʻōpala, ʻaʻohe PFC, a ua hoʻokumu ʻia ma nā mea maka hou.
"Hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻohana i kēia mau lole i nā lole lalo, nā luna a me nā ʻaʻahu komo," wahi a Kerns. "E paʻa paha ʻoe i kahi ʻino one, a ʻaʻole e pipili nā ʻāpana iā ia."
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Kerns ua ʻike ka poʻe he nui i nā loli o ka nui ma muli o nā loli o ke ʻano o ka nohona i hoʻokumu ʻia e ka maʻi ahulau, no laila he "manawa kūpono nui kēia no nā lole e hiki ke hoʻolōʻihi ʻia me ka ʻole o ka mōhai ʻana i ka nani.
Ua ʻae ʻo Alexa Raab, ke poʻo o ka hōʻailona honua a me nā kamaʻilio ʻana o Sorona, he polymer hana kiʻekiʻe ʻo Sorona mai DuPont, i hana ʻia mai 37% o nā mea kanu hou. ʻO ka lole i hana ʻia me Sorona he elasticity lōʻihi kona a he pani no ka spandex. Hoʻohui ʻia lākou me ka pulupulu, ka hulu hipa, ka silika a me nā olonā ʻē aʻe. Loaʻa iā lākou ke kūpaʻa i ka wrinkle a me nā waiwai hoʻōla ʻano, hiki ke hōʻemi i ka ʻeke a me ka pilling, e ʻae ana i nā mea kūʻai aku e mālama i ko lākou lole no ka manawa lōʻihi.
Hōʻike pū kēia i ka ʻimi ʻana o ka ʻoihana i ke kūpaʻa. Ke hōʻoia ʻia nei nā lole i hui pū ʻia ʻo Sorona ma o ka papahana hōʻoia Common Thread a ka ʻoihana, i hoʻomaka ʻia i ka makahiki i hala e hōʻoia i ka hoʻokō ʻana o kā lākou mau hoa hana i nā kūlana hana koʻikoʻi o kā lākou mau lole: ka elasticity lōʻihi, ka hoʻōla ʻana o ke ʻano, ka mālama maʻalahi, ka palupalu a me ka hanu ʻana. A hiki i kēia manawa, ua hōʻoia ʻia ma kahi o 350 mau hale hana.
"Hiki i nā mea hana fiber ke hoʻohana i nā polymers Sorona e hana i nā ʻano hana kūikawā he nui e hiki ai i nā ʻano lole like ʻole ke hōʻike i nā waiwai like ʻole, mai nā lole o waho e pale aku i ka wrinkle a hiki i nā huahana insulation māmā a me ka hanu, ka hoʻolōʻihi mau a me ka hoʻōla hou ʻana, a me ka huluhulu hana Sorona i hoʻokuʻu hou ʻia," ʻo Renee Henze, Luna Hoʻokele Kūʻai Honua o DuPont Biomaterials.
"ʻIke mākou e makemake ana ka poʻe i nā lole ʻoluʻolu, akā makemake pū kekahi e kūlike me nā ʻoihana e kūʻai pono ana i nā lole," wahi a Raab. Ua holomua ʻo Sorona ma ke kahua o nā huahana home a hoʻohana ʻia i nā quilts. I Pepeluali, ua hui pū ka ʻoihana me Thindown, ka lole mua a me ka 100% down wale nō, me ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā mea i hui pū ʻia e hāʻawi i ka mehana, ka māmā a me ka hanu ʻana ma muli o ka palupalu o Sorona, ka drape a me ka elasticity. I ʻAukake, ua hoʻokuʻu ʻo Puma i ka Future Z 1.2, ʻo ia ke kāmaʻa pôpeku laceless mua me ka olonā Sorona ma luna.
No Raab, ʻaʻohe palena o ka lani e pili ana i nā hoʻohana huahana. "Manaʻolana e hiki iā mākou ke hoʻomau i ka ʻike ʻana i ka hoʻohana ʻana o Sorona i nā lole haʻuki, nā lole komo, nā lole ʻauʻau a me nā huahana ʻē aʻe," wahi āna.
Ua lilo hou aku nei ka pelekikena o Polartec ʻo Steve Layton i mea hoihoi iā Milliken & Co.. "ʻO ka nūhou maikaʻi, ʻo ka ʻoluʻolu a me ka hana ke kumu nui o ko mākou ola ʻana," wahi āna no ka brand, nāna i hana i nā sweaters huluhulu hana kiʻekiʻe PolarFleece synthetic i ka makahiki 1981 ma ke ʻano he koho ʻē aʻe i ka hulu hipa. "Ma mua, ua hoʻokaʻawale ʻia mākou i loko o ka mākeke waho, akā ʻo ka mea a mākou i hana ai no ka piko o ka mauna ua hoʻohana ʻia i kēia manawa ma nā ʻano like ʻole."
Ua haʻi ʻo ia iā Dudley Stephens ma ke ʻano he laʻana, kahi hōʻailona mea pono no nā wāhine e kālele ana i nā lole hana hou ʻia. Hana pū ʻo Polartec me nā hōʻailona hana lole e like me Moncler, Stone Island, Reigning Champ, a me Veilance.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Layton no kēia mau lama, he kuleana koʻikoʻi ko ka nani no ka mea ke ʻimi nei lākou i ka mehana māmā, elastic, wicking makū a me ka palupalu no kā lākou huahana lole nohona. ʻO kekahi o nā mea kaulana loa ʻo Power Air, he lole i ulana ʻia e hiki ke kāʻei i ka ea e hoʻomehana a hōʻemi i ka hoʻokahe ʻana o ka microfiber. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia ua "kaulana" kēia lole. ʻOiai ua hāʻawi mua ʻo PowerAir i kahi ʻili pālahalaha me kahi ʻano pehu i loko, ke manaʻolana nei kekahi mau lama nohona e hoʻohana i ka pehu waho ma ke ʻano he hiʻohiʻona hoʻolālā. "No laila, no kā mākou hanauna e hiki mai ana, e hoʻohana mākou i nā ʻano geometric like ʻole e kūkulu ai," wahi āna.
ʻO ke kūpaʻa kekahi hana e hoʻomau nei na Polartec. I Iulai, ua ʻōlelo ka ʻoihana ua hoʻopau ʻo ia i ka PFAS (perfluoroalkyl a me nā mea polyfluoroalkyl) i ka mālama ʻana o DWR (durable water repellent) o kāna moʻo lole hana kiʻekiʻe. ʻO ka PFAS kahi mea kemika i hana ʻia e ke kanaka ʻaʻole e pala, hiki ke noho a hōʻeha i ke kaiapuni a me ke kino kanaka.
"I ka wā e hiki mai ana, e hoʻolilo mākou i ka nui o ka ikehu e mālama i ka hana kūpono loa me ka noʻonoʻo hou ʻana i nā olonā a mākou e hoʻohana ai e hoʻolilo iā lākou i mea bio-based," wahi a Leiden. "ʻO ka hoʻokō ʻana i ka mālama ʻole PFAS i kā mākou laina huahana he hanana koʻikoʻi ia i kā mākou kūpaʻa i ka hana mau ʻana o nā lole hana kiʻekiʻe."
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Chad Bolick, Hope Pelekikena o ka Unifi Global Key Account, ua hoʻokō ka fiber polyester hana hou ʻia ʻo Repreve a ka hui i nā pono no ka ʻoluʻolu, ka hana a me ke kūpaʻa, a hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia i nā huahana like ʻole mai nā lole a me nā kāmaʻa a hiki i nā huahana hale. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia he "pani pololei no ka polyester puʻupaʻa maʻamau."
"Loaʻa i nā huahana i hana ʻia me Repreve nā ʻano like o ka maikaʻi a me ka hana e like me nā huahana i hana ʻia me ka polyester i hana hou ʻole ʻia - ua like ko lākou palupalu a me ka ʻoluʻolu, a hiki ke hoʻohui ʻia nā waiwai like, e like me ke kīkoʻo ʻana, ka hoʻokele makū, ka hoʻoponopono wela, ka pale wai, a me nā mea hou aku," wahi a Bolik. Eia kekahi, ua hoʻemi ia i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ikehu ma ka 45%, ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka wai ma kahi o 20%, a me nā hoʻokuʻu kinoea ʻōmaʻomaʻo ma mua o 30%.
Loaʻa iā Unifi nā huahana ʻē aʻe i hoʻolaʻa ʻia no ka mākeke hana, me ChillSense, kahi ʻenehana hou e hiki ai i ka lole ke hoʻoili i ka wela mai ke kino me ka wikiwiki ke hoʻokomo ʻia me nā olonā, e hana ana i kahi manaʻo o ke anuanu. ʻO kekahi ʻo TruTemp365, kahi e hana ai i nā lā mahana e lawe i ka makū mai ke kino a hāʻawi i ka pale ʻana i nā lā anuanu.
"Ke hoʻomau nei nā mea kūʻai aku i ke koi ʻana i nā huahana a lākou e kūʻai ai he mau ʻano hana hou aʻe me ka mālama ʻana i ka ʻoluʻolu," wahi āna. "Akā ke koi nei hoʻi lākou i ka hoʻomau ʻana me ka hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i ka hana. ʻO nā mea kūʻai aku kekahi ʻāpana o kahi honua pili loa. Ke ʻike nui nei lākou i ka nui o ka hoʻolaha ʻana o ka plastic i loko o ko mākou mau moana, a ke maopopo nei iā lākou ke emi nei kā mākou mau waiwai kūlohelohe, no laila, ʻike nui lākou i ke koʻikoʻi o ka pale ʻana i ke kaiapuni no nā hanauna e hiki mai ana. Hoʻomaopopo kā mākou mea kūʻai aku makemake nā mea kūʻai aku iā lākou e lilo i ʻāpana o kēia hopena."
Akā, ʻaʻole wale nā olonā synthetic e loli mau nei e hoʻokō i ka ulu ʻana o ke koi a me ke kūpaʻa o nā mea kūʻai aku. Ua kuhikuhi ʻo Stuart McCullough, ka luna hoʻokele o The Woolmark Company, i nā "pōmaikaʻi kūloko" o ka huluhulu Merino, ka mea e hāʻawi ai i ka ʻoluʻolu a me ka hana.
"Ke ʻimi nei nā mea kūʻai aku i kēia lā i nā lama me ka kūpaʻa a me ke kūpaʻa i ke kaiapuni. ʻAʻole wale ka huluhulu Merino he mea hoʻonaninani no ke ʻano lole hoʻolālā, akā he hopena ecological hou hoʻi no ke ʻano lole o kēlā me kēia lā a me nā lole haʻuki. Mai ka wā i hoʻomaka ai ʻo COVID-19, ke hoʻomau nei ka piʻi ʻana o ka noi a nā mea kūʻai aku no nā lole home a me nā lole holo kaʻa," wahi a McCullough.
Ua hoʻohui ʻo ia i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke ahulau, ua lilo nā lole home huluhulu merino i mea kaulana loa i ka wā e hana ana ka poʻe mai ka home. I kēia manawa ua puka hou lākou, ʻo nā lole holo kaʻa huluhulu, e mālama ana iā lākou mai ka halihali lehulehu, ka hele wāwae, ka holo ʻana a i ʻole ke kaʻa paikikala i ka hana, ua hōʻike ʻia hoʻi he kaulana loa.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia i mea e hoʻohana pono ai i kēia, ke hana pū nei ka hui loea o Woolmark me nā lama nui ma nā kahua kāmaʻa a me nā lole e hoʻonui i ka hoʻohana ʻana o nā olonā i nā kāmaʻa hana, e like me nā kāmaʻa holo ulana loea a APL. Ua hoʻokuʻu koke aku nei ka hui hoʻolālā Knitwear ʻo Studio Eva x Carola i kahi moʻo o nā prototypes o nā lole paikikala wahine, me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka huluhulu merino loea, seamless, me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka hilo huluhulu merino Südwolle Group i hana ʻia ma nā mīkini ulana Santoni.
I ka nānā ʻana i mua, ua ʻōlelo ʻo McCullough ua manaʻoʻiʻo ʻo ia ʻo ka pono no nā ʻōnaehana hoʻomau hou aku ke kumu nui o ka wā e hiki mai ana.
"Ke kaomi nei nā ʻoihana lole a me nā ʻoihana hana lole e hoʻololi i nā ʻōnaehana hoʻomau," wahi āna. "Pono kēia mau kaomi i nā lama a me nā mea hana e noʻonoʻo hou i kā lākou mau hoʻolālā mea a koho i nā olonā me ka hopena liʻiliʻi i ke kaiapuni. He ʻano cyclical ka hulu hipa o ʻAukekulelia a hāʻawi i kahi hopena no ka hoʻomohala lole hoʻomau."
Ka manawa hoʻouna: ʻOkakopa-21-2021