He leo nui ka ʻōlelo a nā mea kūʻai aku: i ka honua post-pandemic, hōʻoluʻolu a me ka hana ka mea a lākou e ʻimi nei.Ua lohe nā mea hana lole i kēia kāhea a ke pane nei lākou i nā mea like ʻole a me nā huahana e hoʻokō i kēia mau pono.
No nā makahiki he nui, ʻo nā lole kiʻekiʻe ka mea nui i nā haʻuki a me nā lole waho, akā i kēia manawa nā huahana a pau mai nā pālule hāmeʻa kāne a i nā lole wahine e hoʻohana ana i nā lole me kahi ʻano o nā ʻano loea: moisture wicking, deodorization, coolness, etc.
ʻO kekahi o nā alakaʻi i kēia hopena o ka mākeke ʻo Schoeller, kahi hui Swiss e pili ana i ka makahiki 1868. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Stephen Kerns, ka pelekikena o Schoeller USA, ke ʻimi nei nā mea kūʻai aku i kēia lā i nā lole e hiki ke hoʻokō i nā koi he nui.
"Makemake lākou e hana maikaʻi, a makemake pū lākou i ka versatility," wahi āna."ʻAʻole i lōʻihi i hala aku nei ua hele aku nā brand waho i laila, akā i kēia manawa ke ʻike nei mākou i ke koi no [nā lole lole kahiko hou aku]."ʻOiai ʻo Schoeller "e pili ana i nā hōʻailona cross-border e like me Bonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers a me Ralph Lauren," Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia ʻo kēia "haʻuki hoʻokele" hou i loaʻa mai nā haʻuki a me nā leʻaleʻa e lawe mai i ka hoihoi i nā lole me nā ʻano loea.
I Iune, ua hoʻolaha ʻo Schoeller i kekahi mau mana hou o kāna mau huahana no ka pūnāwai o 2023, me ka Dryskin, ʻo ia kahi lole ʻelua ala i hana ʻia me ka polyester recycled a me ka ʻenehana Ecorepel Bio.Hiki iā ia ke lawe i ka makū a pale i ka abrasion.Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia no nā lole haʻuki a me ke ola.
Wahi a ka hui, ua hōʻano hou ka hui i kāna Schoeller Shape, kahi lole huila pulupulu i hana ʻia mai ka polyamide recycled e hana maikaʻi ana ma nā papa kolepa a me nā alanui o ke kūlanakauhale.Loaʻa iā ia kahi hopena ʻelua-leo e hoʻomanaʻo ana i ka denim kahiko a me ka ʻenehana 3XDry Bio.Eia kekahi, aia kekahi lole ripstop Softight, i hoʻolālā ʻia no ka pants i hana ʻia me ka polyamide recycled, i hana ʻia me ka ʻenehana Ecorepel Bio, me kahi kiʻekiʻe o ka wai a me ke kūpaʻa ʻana, PFC-ʻole, a ma muli o nā mea waiwai hou.
"Hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻohana i kēia mau lole ma lalo, luna a me nā ʻaʻahu," wahi a Kerns."E loaʻa paha ʻoe i ka ʻino one, ʻaʻole e pili nā ʻāpana iā ia."
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Kerns he nui ka poʻe i ʻike i nā loli nui ma muli o ka loli ʻana o ke ʻano o ka nohona i hoʻokumu ʻia e ka maʻi maʻi maʻi, no laila he "manawa lole lole nui" kēia no nā lole hiki ke kau ʻia me ka ʻole o ka nani.
Ua ʻae ʻo Alexa Raab, ke poʻo o Sorona no ka hōʻailona hōʻailona honua a me nā kamaʻilio, ʻo Sorona he polymer hana kiʻekiʻe bio-based mai DuPont, i hana ʻia mai 37% mea kanu mea kanu hou.ʻO ka lole i hana ʻia e Sorona he elasticity mau loa a he pani no ka spandex.Hoʻohui ʻia lākou me ka pulupulu, ka hulu hipa, ke kilika a me nā mea ʻē aʻe.Loaʻa iā lākou ke kūpaʻa wrinkle a me ka hoʻihoʻi ʻana i nā waiwai, hiki ke hōʻemi i ka ʻeke a me ka pilling, e ʻae i nā mea kūʻai aku e mālama lōʻihi i ko lākou lole.
Hōʻike pū kēia i ka ʻimi ʻana o ka ʻoihana i ka hoʻomau.Ke hele nei nā lole i hui ʻia ʻo Sorona i ka hōʻoia ma o ka papahana hōʻoia ʻo Common Thread o ka hui, i hoʻokumu ʻia i ka makahiki i hala e hōʻoia i ka hoʻokō ʻana o kā lākou mau hoa hana i nā koina hana nui o kā lākou mau lole: elasticity lōʻihi, hoʻihoʻi kino, mālama maʻalahi, palupalu a me ka hanu.I kēia manawa, ma kahi o 350 mau hale hana i hōʻoia ʻia.
"Hiki i nā mea hana fiber ke hoʻohana i nā polymers Sorona e hana i nā hale kūʻokoʻa he nui e hiki ai i nā ʻano textiles ke hōʻike i nā ʻano waiwai like ʻole, mai nā lole lole waho wrinkle-resistant a hiki i nā huahana insulation māmā a me ka hanu, ka hoʻolōʻihi mau a me ka hoʻihoʻi hou ʻana, a me ka hulu hana hou Sorona," ʻO Renee Henze, Luna Hoʻokele Kūʻai honua o DuPont Biomaterials.
"Ke ʻike nei mākou makemake ka poʻe i nā lole ʻoluʻolu, akā makemake nō hoʻi e hui pū me nā ʻoihana e hoʻokumu i nā lole kūpono a me ke kuleana," wahi a Raab.Ua holomua ʻo Sorona ma ke kahua o nā huahana hale a hoʻohana ʻia i nā quilts.I Pepeluali, ua hui pū ka hui me Thindown, ka mea mua a me 100% wale nō i lalo, me ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā mea i hui ʻia e hāʻawi i ka mahana, ka māmā a me ka hanu e pili ana i ka palupalu o Sorona, drape a me ka elasticity.I ʻAukake, ua hoʻokuʻu ʻo Puma i ka Future Z 1.2, ʻo ia ka kāmaʻa pôpeku laceless mua me ka ʻili Sorona ma luna.
No Raab, ʻaʻohe palena o ka lani e pili ana i nā noi huahana."Manaʻolana hiki iā mākou ke hoʻomau i ka ʻike ʻana i ka noi ʻana o Sorona i nā lole haʻuki, nā lole, nā lole ʻauʻau a me nā huahana ʻē aʻe," wahi āna.
Ua lilo hou ka pelekikena ʻo Polartec ʻo Steve Layton i makemake nui iā Milliken & Co.. "ʻO ka nūhou maikaʻi ʻo ka hōʻoluʻolu a me ka hana ke kumu kumu o ko mākou ola ʻana," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia e pili ana i ka brand, nāna i hoʻokumu i ka synthetic PolarFleece high-performance fleece. nā sweaters i ka makahiki 1981 ma ke ʻano he ʻokoʻa i ka hulu hipa."Ma mua, ua hoʻokaʻawale ʻia mākou i ka mākeke waho, akā ʻo nā mea a mākou i hana ai no ka piko o ka mauna i kēia manawa ua hoʻohana ʻia i nā ʻano like ʻole."
Ua haʻi ʻo ia iā Dudley Stephens ma ke ʻano he laʻana, kahi hōʻailona koʻikoʻi wahine e kālele ana i nā lole recycled.Hoʻopili pū ʻo Polartec me nā brand fashion e like me Moncler, Stone Island, Reigning Champ, a me Veilance.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Layton, no kēia mau hōʻailona, he kuleana koʻikoʻi nā aesthetics no ka mea ke ʻimi nei lākou i ke kaumaha ʻole, elastic, moisture-wicking a me ka pumehana palupalu no kā lākou huahana lole.ʻO kekahi o nā mea kaulana loa ʻo Power Air, ʻo ia ka lole i ulana ʻia e hiki ke kāʻei i ka ea e hoʻomaʻamaʻa a hōʻemi i ka hoʻokahe ʻana o ka microfiber.Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia "ua lilo kēia lole i mea kaulana."ʻOiai ua hāʻawi mua ʻo PowerAir i kahi ʻili palahalaha me kahi ʻano ʻōhū i loko, ke manaʻo nei kekahi mau mea ola ola e hoʻohana i ka ʻōpū o waho i mea hoʻolālā."No laila no kā mākou hanauna e hiki mai ana, e hoʻohana mākou i nā ʻano geometric like ʻole e kūkulu ai," wahi āna.
ʻO ka hoʻomau ʻana he hana hoʻomau no Polartec.I Iulai, ua ʻōlelo ka hui ua hoʻopau ʻo ia i ka PFAS (perfluoroalkyl a me polyfluoroalkyl substances) i ka DWR (durable water repellent) mālama ʻana i kāna moʻo lole kiʻekiʻe.ʻO ka PFAS kahi mea kemika i hana ʻia e ke kanaka ʻaʻole e decompose, hiki ke noho a hoʻopilikia i ke kaiapuni a me ke kino kanaka.
"I ka wā e hiki mai ana, e hoʻolilo mākou i ka nui o ka ikehu no ka mālama ʻana i ka hana maikaʻi loa aʻo ka noʻonoʻo hou ʻana i nā fibers a mākou e hoʻohana ai e hoʻonui i ka bio-based," wahi a Leiden."ʻO ka loaʻa ʻana o ka mālama non-PFAS i kā mākou laina huahana he mea koʻikoʻi koʻikoʻi i kā mākou hoʻokō ʻana i ka hana hoʻomau o nā lole kiʻekiʻe."
ʻO Unifi Global Key Account Hope Pelekikena Chad Bolick i ʻōlelo ʻo Repreve recycled performance polyester fiber e hoʻokō i nā pono no ka hōʻoluʻolu, ka hana a me ka hoʻomau, a hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia i nā huahana like ʻole mai nā lole a me nā kāmaʻa i nā huahana hale.Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia he "hoʻololi pololei i ka polyester puʻupaʻa maʻamau."
"ʻO nā huahana i hana ʻia me Repreve he ʻano like a me nā hiʻohiʻona hana e like me nā huahana i hana ʻia me ka polyester non-recycled-ua like lākou me ka palupalu a me ka ʻoluʻolu, a hiki ke hoʻohui ʻia nā waiwai like, e like me ke kau ʻana, ka hoʻokele wai, ka hoʻoponopono wela, ka wai wai, a me nā mea hou aku. , "i wehewehe ʻo Bolik.Eia kekahi, ua hoʻemi ia i ka ikehu e 45%, ka wai hoʻohana ma kahi kokoke i 20%, a me ka hoʻokuʻu ʻia ʻana o ke kinoea ma mua o 30%.
He mau huahana ʻē aʻe ko Unifi i hoʻolaʻa ʻia i ka mākeke hana, ʻo ia hoʻi ʻo ChillSense, kahi ʻenehana hou e hiki ai i ka lole ke hoʻoneʻe i ka wela mai ke kino me ka wikiwiki i ka wā i hoʻopili ʻia me nā fibers, e hana ana i kahi manaʻo o ke anuanu.ʻO TruTemp365 ka mea ʻē aʻe, e hana ana i nā lā mahana e lawe i ka makū mai ke kino a hāʻawi i ka insulation i nā lā anuanu.
"Ke hoʻomau nei nā mea kūʻai aku i nā huahana a lākou e kūʻai ai i ʻoi aku ka nui o nā hiʻohiʻona hana ʻoiai e mālama ana i ka hōʻoluʻolu," wahi āna."Akā koi lākou i ka hoʻomau ʻana i ka hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i ka hana.ʻO nā mea kūʻai aku he ʻāpana o kahi honua pili loa.Ke ʻike nui nei lākou i ke kahe ʻana o ka plastik nui i loko o ko kākou moana, a hoʻomaopopo lākou i ka pau ʻana o ko kākou waiwai kūlohelohe, no laila, ʻoi aku ko lākou ʻike i ke koʻikoʻi o ka mālama ʻana i ke kaiapuni no nā hanauna e hiki mai ana.Hoʻomaopopo kā mākou mea kūʻai aku makemake nā mea kūʻai aku e lilo lākou i ʻāpana o kēia hopena.
Akā ʻaʻole ia wale nā fibers synthetic e ulu mau nei e hoʻokō i ka ulu ʻana o ka mea kūʻai aku a me ka hoʻomau.ʻO Stuart McCullough, ka luna hoʻomalu o The Woolmark Company, kuhikuhi i nā "pono kūpono" o ka hulu hipa Merino, e hāʻawi ana i ka hōʻoluʻolu a me ka hana.
"ʻImi nā mea kūʻai aku i kēia lā i nā hōʻailona me ka kūpaʻa a me ka kūpaʻa i ke kaiapuni.ʻAʻole ʻo ka huluhulu Merino he mea waiwai wale nō no ka mea hoʻolālā hana, akā, he hopena kaiaola noʻonoʻo no nā ʻano hana o kēlā me kēia lā a me nā lole haʻuki.Mai ka puka ʻana mai o COVID-19, ke hoʻomau nei ka makemake o nā mea kūʻai aku no nā lole home a me nā lole commuter, "i ʻōlelo ai ʻo McCullough.
Ua hoʻohui ʻo ia i ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ka maʻi maʻi, ua lilo ka merino wool home a kaulana loa i ka hana ʻana o ka poʻe mai ka home.I kēia manawa ua puka hou lākou, ʻaʻahu ka hulu hipa, mālama iā lākou mai ka halihali lehulehu, ka hele wāwae, ka holo ʻana a i ʻole ka holo kaʻa i ka hana, ua kaulana loa.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia, i mea e hoʻohana pono ai i kēia, ke hui pū nei ka hui ʻenehana o Woolmark me nā hōʻailona koʻikoʻi i nā kahua kāmaʻa a me nā ʻaʻahu e hoʻonui i ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā fibers i nā kāmaʻa hana, e like me nā kāmaʻa holo ʻenehana a APL.Ua hoʻolaha hou aku nei ʻo Studio Eva x Carola, ka hui hoʻolālā lole Knitwear, i nā ʻano prototypes o nā lole paikikala wahine, me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻenehana a me ka huluhulu merino maʻemaʻe, me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka hulu hipa merino Südwolle Group i hana ʻia ma nā mīkini hili ʻo Santoni.
Ke nānā nei i mua, ua ʻōlelo ʻo McCullough ua manaʻoʻiʻo ʻo ia ka pono o nā ʻōnaehana hoʻomau e ʻoi aku ka ikaika i ka wā e hiki mai ana.
"ʻO nā ʻoihana textile a me nā ʻoihana hana ma lalo o ke kaomi e hoʻololi i nā ʻōnaehana hoʻomau," wahi āna."Ke koi nei kēia mau koi i nā mea hana a me nā mea hana e noʻonoʻo hou i kā lākou mau hoʻolālā waiwai a koho i nā fiber me ka liʻiliʻi o ka hopena o ke kaiapuni.He cyclical ka huluhulu Australian a hāʻawi i kahi hopena no ka hoʻomohala ʻana i ka textile hoʻomau.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: Oct-21-2021