He nui, he mārama te karere e tukuna ana e ngā kaihoko: i te ao whai muri i te mate urutā, ko te whakamarie me te mahi te mea e rapuhia ana e rātou. Kua rongo ngā kaihanga papanga i tēnei karanga, ā, kei te aro atu rātou ki ngā rauemi me ngā hua maha hei whakatutuki i ēnei hiahia.
Mō ngā tekau tau, ko ngā papanga mahi-teitei he wāhanga matua o ngā kākahu hākinakina me ngā kākahu o waho, engari ināianei kei te whakamahia ngā papanga he maha ngā āhuatanga hangarau o ngā hua katoa mai i ngā koti hākinakina tāne ki ngā kākahu wāhine: te tango makuku, te tango haunga, te mātao, me ētahi atu.
Ko tētahi o ngā kaiārahi i tēnei pito o te mākete ko Schoeller, he kamupene Huiterangi i hangaia i te tau 1868. I kī a Stephen Kerns, te perehitini o Schoeller USA, kei te rapu ngā kaihoko o ēnei rā i ngā kākahu ka taea te whakatutuki i ngā whakaritenga maha.
"E hiahia ana rātou ki te mahi pai, ā, e hiahia ana hoki rātou ki te maha o ngā mahi," tana kī. "I tae mai ngā waitohu o waho ki reira i ngā wā tata nei, engari ināianei kua kite tātou i te tono mō [ngā waitohu kākahu tuku iho]." Ahakoa "kua mahi tahi a Schoeller me ngā waitohu whakawhiti-rohe pērā i a Bonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers me Ralph Lauren," i kī ia ko tēnei "hākinakina haereere" hou i ahu mai i ngā hākinakina me te wā whakangahau kei te kawe mai i te hiahia nui ki ngā papanga he āhuatanga hangarau.
I te marama o Hune, i whakarewahia e Schoeller ētahi putanga hou o āna hua mō te puna o te tau 2023, tae atu ki a Dryskin, he papanga totoro rua-ara i hangaia mai i te polyester hangarua me te hangarau Ecorepel Bio. Ka taea e ia te kawe i te makuku me te ātete ki te pakū. Ka taea te whakamahi mō ngā kākahu hākinakina me ngā kākahu oranga.
E ai ki te kamupene, kua whakahoutia e te kamupene tana Schoeller Shape, he papanga miro whakaranu i hangaia mai i te polyamide hangarua e pai ana te mahi ki ngā papa korowha me ngā tiriti o te tāone. He pānga tae-rua tōna e rite ana ki te tenimu tawhito me te hangarau 3XDry Bio. Hei tāpiri, he papanga Softight ripstop anō hoki, i hangaia mō ngā tarau i hangaia mai i te polyamide hangarua, i hangaia ki te hangarau Ecorepel Bio, he ātete teitei ki te wai me te paru, kāore he PFC, ā, i ahu mai i ngā rauemi mata ka taea te whakahou.
"Ka taea e koe te whakamahi i ēnei papanga ki ngā kākahu o raro, ki ngā kākahu o runga me ngā koti," te kī a Kerns. "Tērā pea ka mau koe i te awha onepū, ā, e kore ngā matūriki e piri ki reira."
I kī a Kerns he tokomaha ngā tāngata kua pāngia e ngā panonitanga rahi nā ngā panonitanga o te āhua noho i puta mai i te mate urutā, nō reira he "whai wāhitanga nui tēnei ki te kimi kākahu" mō ngā kākahu ka taea te totoro me te kore e whakararu i te ataahua.
I whakaae a Alexa Raab, te tumuaki o te waitohu me ngā whakawhitiwhiti kōrero ā-ao o Sorona, he pūmua mahi-teitei a Sorona mai i DuPont, he mea hanga mai i te 37% o ngā kai tipu ka taea te whakahou. He roa te mau o te papanga i hangaia mai i Sorona, ā, he whakakapinga mō te spandex. Ka whakaranua ki te miro, te huruhuru hipi, te hiraka me ētahi atu muka. He ātete hoki ki ngā kita me ngā āhuatanga whakaora āhua, ka taea te whakaiti i te pēke me te puranga, ka taea ai e ngā kaihoko te pupuri i ō rātou kākahu mō te wā roa.
E whakaatu ana hoki tēnei i te whai a te kamupene i te oranga tonutanga. Kei te whai tiwhikete ngā papanga whakaranu o Sorona mā te kaupapa tiwhikete Miro Kotahi a te kamupene, i whakarewahia i te tau kua hipa hei whakarite kia tutuki i ā rātou hoa wheketere ngā paearu mahi matua o ā rātou papanga: te ngāwari o te mau tonu, te whakaora i te āhua, te ngāwari o te tiaki, te ngawari me te manawa. Tae noa ki tēnei wā, tata ki te 350 ngā wheketere kua tiwhiketehia.
"Ka taea e ngā kaihanga muka te whakamahi i ngā pūmua Sorona hei hanga i ngā hanganga ahurei maha e āhei ai ngā momo kakahu ki te whakaatu i ngā āhuatanga rerekē, mai i ngā papanga kākahu o waho e ātete ana ki ngā kita ki ngā hua whakamahana mama me te manawa, te totoro me te whakaora pumau, me te huruhuru horihori hou o Sorona," ko Renee Henze, te Kaiwhakahaere Hokohoko Ao o DuPont Biomaterials.
"E kite ana mātou e hiahia ana te iwi ki ngā kākahu whakamarie ake, engari e hiahia ana hoki ki te hono atu ki ngā kamupene e rapu ana i ngā papanga i runga i te matatika me te kawenga," te tāpiri a Raab. Kua ahu whakamua a Sorona i roto i te mara o ngā hua o te whare, ā, e whakamahia ana i roto i ngā kuīti. I te marama o Pēpuere, i mahi tahi te kamupene me Thindown, te papanga huruhuru hipi tuatahi me te mea anake i hangaia ki te 100% huruhuru hipi, e whakamahi ana i ngā rauemi whakaranu hei whakarato i te mahana, te māmā me te manawa e ahu mai ana i te ngawari, te ārai me te ngāwari o Sorona. I te marama o Ākuhata, i whakarewahia e Puma te Future Z 1.2, koinei te hū whutupaoro tuatahi kāore he here me te miro Sorona i te taha o runga.
Ki a Raab, kāore he mutunga o te rangi mō ngā tono hua. "Ko te tumanako ka taea tonu e tātou te kite i te tono o Sorona i roto i ngā kākahu hākinakina, ngā hūtu, ngā kākahu kaukau me ētahi atu hua," tana kī.
Nō nā tata nei, kua piki haere te hiahia o te perehitini o Polartec, a Steve Layton, ki a Milliken & Co.. "Ko te rongo pai ko te whakamarie me te mahi ngā tino take o tō tātou oranga," tana kī mō te waitohu, nāna i hanga ngā hāte huruhuru hipi PolarFleece hangai i te tau 1981 hei whakakapi mō te huruhuru hipi. "I mua, i whakarōpūtia mātou ki te mākete o waho, engari ko tā mātou i hanga mō te tihi o te maunga kua whakamahia ināianei i roto i ngā huarahi rerekē."
I whakahuatia e ia a Dudley Stephens hei tauira, he waitohu taonga wahine e aro nui ana ki ngā papanga hangarua. E mahi tahi ana hoki a Polartec me ngā waitohu ahua pērā i a Moncler, Stone Island, Reigning Champ, me Veilance.
I kī a Layton, mō ēnei waitohu, he mea nui te āhua o te kakahu nā te mea e rapu ana rātou i te mahana ngāwari, ngāwari, ngāwari te tango i te makuku me te ngawari mō ā rātou hua kākahu oranga. Ko tētahi o ngā mea tino rongonui ko Power Air, he papanga whatu ka taea te takai i te hau hei pupuri i te mahana me te whakaiti i te maturuturunga o te muka moroiti. I kī ia kua "rongonui" tēnei papanga. Ahakoa i te tīmatanga i whakaratohia e PowerAir he mata papatahi me te hanganga mirumiru i roto, ko te tumanako a ētahi waitohu oranga ki te whakamahi i te mirumiru o waho hei āhuatanga hoahoa. "Nō reira, mō tō tātou whakatupuranga e whai ake nei, ka whakamahia e tātou ngā āhua āhuahanga rerekē hei hanga," tana kī.
He kaupapa tonu anō hoki te oranga tonutanga nā Polartec. I te marama o Hūrae, i kī te kamupene kua whakakorea e rātou te PFAS (ngā matū perfluoroalkyl me te polyfluoroalkyl) i roto i te maimoatanga DWR (te ārai wai pakari) o tana raupapa papanga mahi-teitei. He matū hanga-tangata te PFAS, kāore e pirau, ka noho tonu, ā, ka kino ki te taiao me te tinana tangata.
"I te heke mai, ka nui te kaha ka whakapaua e mātou ki te pupuri i te mahi tino pai, me te whakaaro anō ki ngā muka e whakamahia ana e mātou kia pai ake ai te hanga i aua muka ki te koiora," te kī a Leiden. "Ko te whakatutukitanga o te maimoatanga kore-PFAS i roto i tā mātou raina hua he tohu nui i roto i tā mātou whakapau kaha ki te hanga papanga mahi-teitei kia pumau."
I kī te Perehitini Tuarua o te Pūkete Matua o Unifi Global, a Chad Bolick, ka tutuki i te muka polyester mahi hangarua a te kamupene a Repreve ngā hiahia mō te whakamarie, te mahi me te pumau, ā, ka taea te whakamahi i roto i ngā momo hua mai i ngā kākahu me ngā hu ki ngā hua o te whare. I kī ia he "whakakapinga tika hoki mō te polyester tauhou paerewa."
"He rite tonu te kounga me ngā āhuatanga mahi o ngā hua i hangaia ki te Repreve ki ngā hua i hangaia ki te polyester kāore i hangarua - he rite tonu te ngawari me te whakamarie, ā, ka taea te tāpiri i ngā āhuatanga ōrite, pērā i te totoro, te whakahaere makuku, te whakahaere wera, te ārai wai, me te maha atu," te whakamārama a Bolik. Hei tāpiri, kua whakaitihia te whakamahinga pūngao mā te 45%, te whakamahinga wai mā te tata ki te 20%, me ngā tukunga hau kati kōtuhi mā te neke atu i te 30%.
Kei a Unifi ētahi atu hua e aro nui ana ki te mākete mahi, tae atu ki a ChillSense, he hangarau hou e taea ai e te papanga te whakawhiti wera mai i te tinana i te tere ake ina whakauruhia ki ngā muka, ka puta he ahua mātao. Ko tētahi atu ko TruTemp365, e mahi ana i ngā rā mahana hei tango i te makuku mai i te tinana, ā, hei whakarato whakamarumaru i ngā rā makariri.
"Kei te tono tonu ngā kaihoko kia nui ake ngā āhuatanga mahi a ngā hua e hokona ana e rātou, me te pupuri tonu i te whakamarie," tana kī. "Engari e hiahia ana hoki rātou kia pumau tonu, me te whakapai ake i te mahi. He wāhanga ngā kaihoko o tētahi ao hono nui. Kei te mōhio haere rātou ki te nui o te kirihou e horapa ana i roto i ō tātou moana, ā, e mārama ana rātou kei te memeha haere ā tātou rauemi taiao, nō reira, kei te mōhio ake rātou ki te hiranga o te tiaki i te taiao mō ngā whakatipuranga o muri mai. E mārama ana ā mātou kaihoko e hiahia ana ngā kaihoko kia whai wāhi rātou ki tēnei otinga."
Engari ehara i te mea ko ngā muka hangai anake e whanake tonu ana hei whakatutuki i te hiahia o ngā kaihoko me te pumau tonu. E tohu ana a Stuart McCullough, te kaiwhakahaere matua o The Woolmark Company, ki ngā "painga ā-roto" o te huruhuru Merino, e whakarato ana i te whakamarie me te mahi.
"E rapu ana ngā kaihoko i ngā waitohu pono me te whakapau kaha ki te taiao i ēnei rā. Ehara i te mea he rauemi papai noa te huruhuru Merino mō ngā momo kakahu kaihoahoa, engari he otinga taiao auaha hoki mō ngā momo kakahu o ia rā me ngā kākahu hākinakina. Mai i te pakarutanga mai o te COVID-19, kei te piki haere tonu te hiahia o ngā kaihoko mō ngā kākahu kāinga me ngā kākahu haereere," te kī a McCullough.
I tāpiri atu ia, i te tīmatanga o te mate urutā, ka piki haere te rongonui o ngā kākahu kāinga huruhuru merino i te mea ka mahi te tangata mai i te kāinga. Ināianei kua puta anō rātou, ko ngā kākahu huruhuru haereere, e ārai ana i a rātou i ngā waka a te iwi, te hikoi, te oma, te eke pahikara rānei ki te mahi, kua tino rongonui hoki.
I mea ia, hei whakamahi i tēnei, kei te mahi tahi te tīma hangarau a Woolmark me ngā waitohu nui i roto i ngā mara hu me ngā kākahu hei whakawhānui ake i te whakamahinga o ngā muka i roto i ngā hu mahi, pērā i ngā hu oma whatu hangarau a APL. Nō nā tata nei, i whakarewahia e te kamupene hoahoa kākahu whatu, a Studio Eva x Carola, he raupapa tauira o ngā kākahu pahikara wāhine, e whakamahi ana i te huruhuru hipi merino hangarau, he miro huruhuru hipi merino a Südwolle Group i hangaia ki ngā mīhini whatu Santoni.
I te tirohanga whakamua, i kī a McCullough e whakapono ana ia ko te hiahia mō ngā pūnaha tauwhiro ake te kaupapa matua mō ngā rā kei te heke mai.
"Kei raro i te pēhanga te umanga kakahu me te ahua kia huri ki ngā pūnaha tauwhiro ake," tana kī. "Mā ēnei pēhanga ka hiahia ngā waitohu me ngā kaihanga ki te whakaaro anō ki ā rātou rautaki rauemi, me te whiriwhiri i ngā muka he iti ake te pānga ki te taiao. He āhua hurihuri te huruhuru hipi o Ahitereiria, ā, he otinga tēnei mō te whanaketanga kakahu tauwhiro."
Wā tuku: Oketopa-21-2021