Uthenga womwe ogula amapereka ndi womveka bwino: m'dziko la pambuyo pa mliri, chitonthozo ndi magwiridwe antchito ndi zomwe akufuna. Opanga nsalu amva pempholi ndipo akuyankha zipangizo ndi zinthu zosiyanasiyana kuti akwaniritse zosowazi.
Kwa zaka zambiri, nsalu zogwira ntchito bwino zakhala chinthu chofunikira kwambiri pamasewera ndi zovala zakunja, koma tsopano zinthu zonse kuyambira majekete amasewera a amuna mpaka madiresi a akazi zikugwiritsa ntchito nsalu zokhala ndi makhalidwe osiyanasiyana: kupukuta chinyezi, kuchotsa fungo loipa, kuzizira, ndi zina zotero.
Mmodzi mwa atsogoleri pamsika uno ndi Schoeller, kampani yaku Switzerland yomwe idayamba mu 1868. Stephen Kerns, purezidenti wa Schoeller USA, adati ogula masiku ano akufunafuna zovala zomwe zingakwaniritse zofunikira zambiri.
“Akufuna kuchita bwino, ndipo amafunanso kusinthasintha,” iye anatero. “Makampani akunja adapita kumeneko posachedwapa, koma tsopano tikuwona kufunikira kwa [makampani a zovala zachikhalidwe].” Ngakhale Schoeller “wakhala akugwiritsa ntchito makampani ochokera m’mayiko osiyanasiyana monga Bonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers ndi Ralph Lauren,” iye anati “masewera atsopano oyendera” ochokera ku masewera ndi zosangalatsa akubweretsa chidwi chachikulu ku nsalu zokhala ndi luso laukadaulo.
Mu June, Schoeller idatulutsa mitundu ingapo yatsopano ya zinthu zake za masika a 2023, kuphatikiza Dryskin, yomwe ndi nsalu yotambasulidwa yopangidwa ndi polyester yobwezerezedwanso ndi ukadaulo wa Ecorepel Bio. Imatha kunyamula chinyezi komanso kukana kusweka. Itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito pa zovala zamasewera ndi za moyo.
Malinga ndi kampaniyo, kampaniyo yasintha Schoeller Shape yake, nsalu yopangidwa ndi thonje yopangidwa kuchokera ku polyamide yobwezerezedwanso yomwe imagwira ntchito bwino m'mabwalo a gofu ndi m'misewu ya m'mizinda. Ili ndi mawonekedwe awiri ofanana ndi ukadaulo wakale wa denim ndi 3XDry Bio. Kuphatikiza apo, palinso nsalu ya Softight ripstop, yopangidwira mathalauza opangidwa ndi polyamide yobwezerezedwanso, yopangidwa ndi ukadaulo wa Ecorepel Bio, yokhala ndi madzi ambiri komanso kukana banga, yopanda PFC, komanso yochokera kuzinthu zongowonjezwdwanso.
“Mungagwiritse ntchito nsalu izi m’mabotolo apansi, pamwamba ndi majekete,” anatero Kerns. “Mukhoza kugwidwa ndi chimphepo chamchenga, ndipo tinthu tating’onoting’ono sitingamamatire.”
Kerns adati anthu ambiri asintha kukula chifukwa cha kusintha kwa moyo komwe kwachitika chifukwa cha mliriwu, kotero uwu ndi "mwayi waukulu wovala zovala" za zovala zomwe zitha kutambasulidwa popanda kuwononga kukongola.
Alexa Raab, mkulu wa kampani yogulitsa zinthu padziko lonse lapansi komanso kulumikizana ku Sorona, adavomereza kuti Sorona ndi polima yapamwamba yochokera ku DuPont, yopangidwa kuchokera ku zosakaniza zongowonjezedwanso za 37%. Nsalu yopangidwa ndi Sorona imakhala ndi kulimba kwa nthawi yayitali ndipo imalowa m'malo mwa spandex. Amasakanizidwa ndi thonje, ubweya, silika ndi ulusi wina. Amakhalanso ndi mphamvu zoteteza makwinya komanso mawonekedwe, zomwe zimachepetsa kuyika matumba ndi kuyikapo, zomwe zimathandiza ogula kusunga zovala zawo nthawi yayitali.
Izi zikuwonetsanso kufunitsitsa kwa kampaniyo kuti zinthu zizikhala zokhazikika. Nsalu zosakanikirana za Sorona zikulandira satifiketi kudzera mu pulogalamu ya satifiketi ya Common Thread ya kampaniyo, yomwe idakhazikitsidwa chaka chatha kuti zitsimikizire kuti ogwira nawo ntchito m'fakitale akukwaniritsa zofunikira zazikulu za ntchito ya nsalu zawo: kulimba kwa nthawi yayitali, kuchira mawonekedwe, kusamaliridwa mosavuta, kufewa komanso kupuma mosavuta. Pakadali pano, mafakitale pafupifupi 350 alandira satifiketi.
"Opanga ulusi amatha kugwiritsa ntchito ma polima a Sorona kuti apange mapangidwe ambiri apadera omwe amalola nsalu zosiyanasiyana kuwonetsa mawonekedwe osiyanasiyana, kuyambira nsalu zakunja zosagwira makwinya mpaka zinthu zopepuka komanso zopumira, kutambasula ndi kuchira kosatha, komanso ubweya wopangidwa wa Sorona watsopano," Renee Henze, Mtsogoleri wa Zamalonda Padziko Lonse wa DuPont Biomaterials.
“Tikuona kuti anthu akufuna zovala zabwino kwambiri, komanso akufuna kugwirizana ndi makampani omwe amagula nsalu mwachilungamo komanso moyenera,” Raab anawonjezera. Sorona yapita patsogolo pankhani ya zinthu zapakhomo ndipo imagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga malaya. Mu February, kampaniyo idagwirizana ndi Thindown, nsalu yoyamba komanso yokhayo yotsika mtengo, pogwiritsa ntchito zinthu zosakanikirana kuti zipereke kutentha, kupepuka komanso kupuma bwino kutengera kufewa, mawonekedwe ndi kusinthasintha kwa Sorona. Mu Ogasiti, Puma idayambitsa Future Z 1.2, yomwe ndi nsapato yoyamba ya mpira yopanda zingwe yokhala ndi ulusi wa Sorona pamwamba.
Kwa Raab, thambo ndi lopanda malire pankhani ya kugwiritsa ntchito zinthu. "Tikukhulupirira kuti tipitiliza kuwona kugwiritsa ntchito Sorona mu zovala zamasewera, masuti, zovala zosambira ndi zinthu zina," adatero.
Purezidenti wa Polartec, Steve Layton, posachedwapa wakhala ndi chidwi ndi Milliken & Co.. "Nkhani yabwino ndi yakuti chitonthozo ndi magwiridwe antchito ndiye zifukwa zazikulu zomwe tili nazo," adatero za kampaniyi, yomwe idapanga majekete a ubweya wa PolarFleece mu 1981 m'malo mwa ubweya. "Kale, tinkagulitsidwa pamsika wakunja, koma zomwe tidapanga pamwamba pa phiri tsopano zikugwiritsidwa ntchito m'njira zosiyanasiyana."
Iye anatchula Dudley Stephens monga chitsanzo, kampani ya zinthu zofunika kwambiri zachikazi yomwe imayang'ana kwambiri nsalu zobwezerezedwanso. Polartec imagwirizananso ndi makampani opanga mafashoni monga Moncler, Stone Island, Reigning Champ, ndi Veilance.
Layton anati kwa makampani awa, kukongola kumagwira ntchito yofunika kwambiri chifukwa akufunafuna zovala zawo zofewa, zotanuka, zochotsa chinyezi komanso zofewa. Chimodzi mwa zodziwika kwambiri ndi Power Air, yomwe ndi nsalu yolukidwa yomwe imatha kukulunga mpweya kuti isunge kutentha ndikuchepetsa kutayika kwa microfiber. Anati nsalu iyi "yakhala yotchuka." Ngakhale kuti poyamba PowerAir inali ndi malo athyathyathya okhala ndi kapangidwe ka thovu mkati, makampani ena a moyo akuyembekeza kugwiritsa ntchito thovu lakunja ngati kapangidwe kake. "Chifukwa chake kwa mbadwo wathu wotsatira, tidzagwiritsa ntchito mawonekedwe osiyanasiyana a geometry kuti tipange," adatero.
Kukhazikika kwa chilengedwe ndi ntchito yopitilira ya Polartec. Mu Julayi, kampaniyo idanena kuti idachotsa PFAS (perfluoroalkyl ndi polyfluoroalkyl substances) mu DWR (durable water repellent) pochiza nsalu zake zapamwamba. PFAS ndi mankhwala opangidwa ndi anthu omwe samawola, amatha kukhalabe ndikuwononga chilengedwe ndi thupi la munthu.
"M'tsogolomu, tidzagwiritsa ntchito mphamvu zambiri kuti tisunge magwiridwe antchito abwino pamene tikuganiziranso za ulusi womwe timagwiritsa ntchito kuti ukhale wopangidwa ndi zinthu zachilengedwe," adatero Leiden. "Kupeza chithandizo chosakhala cha PFAS mu mzere wathu wazinthu ndi gawo lofunika kwambiri pakudzipereka kwathu pakupanga nsalu zogwira ntchito bwino."
Wachiwiri kwa Purezidenti wa Akaunti ya Unifi Global Key, Chad Bolick, adati ulusi wa polyester wobwezeretsedwanso wa kampaniyo umakwaniritsa zosowa za chitonthozo, magwiridwe antchito komanso kukhazikika, ndipo ungagwiritsidwe ntchito pazinthu zosiyanasiyana kuyambira zovala ndi nsapato mpaka zinthu zapakhomo. Anatinso "ndiwolowa m'malo mwachindunji ndi polyester wamba."
"Zogulitsa zopangidwa ndi Repreve zili ndi khalidwe lofanana komanso magwiridwe antchito monga zopangidwa ndi polyester yosagwiritsidwanso ntchito - ndizofewa komanso zomasuka, ndipo zinthu zomwezo zitha kuwonjezeredwa, monga kutambasula, kusamalira chinyezi, kulamulira kutentha, kuletsa madzi kulowa, ndi zina zambiri," Bolik adafotokoza. Kuphatikiza apo, yachepetsa kugwiritsa ntchito mphamvu ndi 45%, kugwiritsa ntchito madzi ndi pafupifupi 20%, komanso kutulutsa mpweya woipa ndi zoposa 30%.
Unifi ilinso ndi zinthu zina zomwe zimaperekedwa pamsika wa magwiridwe antchito, kuphatikiza ChillSense, yomwe ndi ukadaulo watsopano womwe umalola nsalu kutumiza kutentha kuchokera mthupi mwachangu ikaphatikizidwa ndi ulusi, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti ikhale yozizira. Ina ndi TruTemp365, yomwe imagwira ntchito masiku ofunda kuti ichotse chinyezi m'thupi komanso imapereka chitetezo chamthupi masiku ozizira.
“Ogula akupitirizabe kufuna kuti zinthu zomwe amagula zikhale ndi magwiridwe antchito ambiri pamene akusunga chitonthozo,” iye anatero. “Koma amafunanso kuti zinthu ziziyenda bwino pamene akukweza magwiridwe antchito. Ogula ndi mbali ya dziko logwirizana kwambiri. Akuzindikira kwambiri za kuyenda kwa pulasitiki m’nyanja zathu, ndipo akumvetsa kuti zachilengedwe zathu zikutha, choncho, akuzindikira kwambiri kufunika koteteza chilengedwe kwa mibadwo yamtsogolo. Makasitomala athu akumvetsa kuti ogula akufuna kuti akhale mbali ya yankho ili.”
Koma si ulusi wopangidwa wokha womwe ukusintha nthawi zonse kuti ukwaniritse kufunikira kwa ogula komanso kukhazikika kwawo. Stuart McCullough, mkulu wa kampani ya The Woolmark, akunena za "ubwino wamkati" wa ubweya wa Merino, womwe umapereka chitonthozo ndi magwiridwe antchito.
"Masiku ano ogula amafuna makampani odalirika komanso odzipereka ku chilengedwe. Ubweya wa Merino si chinthu chapamwamba chokha chokongoletsera mafashoni, komanso njira yatsopano yopezera zachilengedwe zamafashoni ndi masewera osiyanasiyana. Kuyambira pomwe COVID-19 idayamba, kufunikira kwa ogula zovala zapakhomo ndi zovala zoyendera kukupitirirabe," adatero McCullough.
Anawonjezera kuti kumayambiriro kwa mliriwu, zovala zapakhomo za ubweya wa merino zinatchuka kwambiri pamene anthu ankagwira ntchito kunyumba. Tsopano atulukanso, zovala za ubweya, zomwe zimawalepheretsa kupita ku mayendedwe apagulu, kuyenda pansi, kuthamanga kapena kukwera njinga kupita kuntchito, nazonso zadziwika kwambiri.
Iye anati kuti agwiritse ntchito mwayi umenewu, gulu la akatswiri a Woolmark likugwirizana ndi makampani akuluakulu m'magawo a nsapato ndi zovala kuti akulitse kugwiritsa ntchito ulusi mu nsapato zogwira ntchito, monga nsapato zolukidwa zaukadaulo za APL. Kampani yopanga zovala zoluka Studio Eva x Carola posachedwapa yatulutsa mndandanda wa zitsanzo za zovala za akazi zoyendera njinga, pogwiritsa ntchito ubweya waukadaulo, wopanda msoko wa merino, pogwiritsa ntchito ulusi wa ubweya wa Südwolle Group wopangidwa pamakina oluka a Santoni.
Poyang'ana mtsogolo, McCullough adati akukhulupirira kuti kufunikira kwa machitidwe okhazikika kwambiri kudzakhala mphamvu yoyendetsera zinthu mtsogolo.
"Makampani opanga nsalu ndi mafashoni ali pamavuto kuti asinthe kukhala machitidwe okhazikika," adatero. "Mavutowa amafuna kuti makampani ndi opanga aganizirenso njira zawo zopangira zinthu ndikusankha ulusi popanda kuwononga chilengedwe. Ubweya wa ku Australia ndi wozungulira ndipo umapereka yankho la chitukuko chokhazikika cha nsalu."
Nthawi yotumizira: Okutobala-21-2021