Ubutumwa butangwa n'abaguzi burasobanutse neza: mu isi ya nyuma y'icyorezo, ihumure n'imikorere myiza ni byo bashaka. Abakora imyenda bumvise iki cyifuzo kandi barimo kwitabira ibikoresho n'ibicuruzwa bitandukanye kugira ngo bahaze ibyo bikenewe.
Mu myaka ibarirwa muri za mirongo, imyenda ikoze neza cyane yabaye ikintu cy'ingenzi mu myenda ya siporo no hanze, ariko ubu ibicuruzwa byose kuva ku makoti y'abagabo kugeza ku myenda y'abagore birimo gukoresha imyenda ifite imiterere itandukanye: gukuraho ubushuhe, gukuraho impumuro mbi, gukonja, nibindi.
Umwe mu bayoboye iri soko ni Schoeller, ikigo cyo mu Busuwisi cyatangiye mu 1868. Stephen Kerns, perezida wa Schoeller muri Amerika, yavuze ko abaguzi bo muri iki gihe bashaka imyenda ijyanye n'ibyo bakeneye byinshi.
Yagize ati: “Barashaka kwitwara neza, kandi barashaka no gukora ibintu bitandukanye.” “Ibirango byo hanze byagiyeyo vuba aha, ariko ubu tubona ko hakenewe [ibirango by’imyenda gakondo].” Nubwo Schoeller “yagiye akorana n’ibirango bikorera mu mahanga nka Bonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers na Ralph Lauren,” yavuze ko iyi “siporo nshya yo kujya mu mahanga” ikomoka kuri siporo n’imyidagaduro irimo kuzana inyungu nyinshi ku myenda ifite imiterere ya tekiniki.
Muri Kamena, Schoeller yashyize ahagaragara ubwoko bushya bw'ibicuruzwa byayo mu mpeshyi ya 2023, harimo Dryskin, ikaba ari umwenda ukozwe mu buryo bubiri ukozwe muri polyester yasubiwemo na ikoranabuhanga rya Ecorepel Bio. Ishobora gutwara ubushuhe no kwirinda kwangirika. Ishobora gukoreshwa mu myenda ya siporo n'ubuzima.
Nk’uko ikigo kibitangaza, ikigo cyavuguruye Schoeller Shape, umwenda w’ipamba ukozwe muri polyamide yasubiwemo kandi ukorana neza ku bibuga bya golf no mu mihanda yo mu mujyi. Ufite imiterere ibiri isa n’iya denim ya kera na 3XDry Bio. Byongeye kandi, hari n’umwenda woroshye wo gusimbuka, wagenewe ipantaro ikozwe muri polyamide yasubiwemo, wakozwe mu ikoranabuhanga rya Ecorepel Bio, ufite urwego rwo hejuru rwo kwirinda amazi n’ibizinga, nta PFC, kandi ushingiye ku bikoresho fatizo bishobora kongera gukoreshwa.
Kerns yagize ati: “Ushobora gukoresha iyi myenda mu mashuka yo hasi, hejuru no mu makoti. Ushobora gufatwa n’inkubi y’umuyaga, kandi uduce tw’ingufu ntituyifatanye.”
Kerns yavuze ko abantu benshi bahuye n’impinduka mu bunini bitewe n’impinduka mu mibereho yatewe n’icyorezo, bityo iyi ni "amahirwe akomeye yo kwambara imyenda" ku myenda ishobora kuramburwa idasize inyuma ubwiza.
Alexa Raab, umuyobozi ushinzwe ikirango ku isi n'itumanaho muri Sorona, yemeye ko Sorona ari polymeri ifite imikorere myiza ikomoka kuri DuPont, ikozwe mu bimera bishobora kongera gukoreshwa ku kigero cya 37%. Imyenda ikozwe muri Sorona iramba kandi isimbura spandex. Ivanze n'ipamba, ubwoya, silk n'indi migozi. Ifite kandi ubushobozi bwo kugabanya iminkanyari no kugarura imiterere, bishobora kugabanya gupfunyika no gupfunyika, bigatuma abaguzi bagumana imyenda yabo igihe kirekire.
Ibi kandi bigaragaza uburyo ikigo giharanira kurambye. Imyenda ivanze ya Sorona irimo guhabwa icyemezo binyuze muri gahunda ya Common Thread, yatangijwe umwaka ushize kugira ngo abafatanyabikorwa bayo mu ruganda buzuze ibisabwa by'ingenzi by'imitako yabo: gukomera igihe kirekire, kugarura imiterere, kwita ku buryo bworoshye, koroha no guhumeka neza. Kugeza ubu, inganda zigera kuri 350 zimaze guhabwa icyemezo.
“Abakora fibre bashobora gukoresha polymer za Sorona kugira ngo bakore imiterere myinshi yihariye ituma imyenda itandukanye igaragaza imiterere itandukanye, kuva ku myenda yo hanze idacika iminkanyari kugeza ku bikoresho byoroshye kandi bihumeka, kurambura no gukira burundu, ndetse n’ubwoya bushya bwa Sorona bw’ubukorano,” Renee Henze, Umuyobozi Mukuru ushinzwe iyamamazabikorwa ku Isi wa DuPont Biomaterials.
Raab yongeyeho ati: “Tubona ko abantu bashaka imyenda ishimishije kurushaho, ariko kandi twifuza guhuza n’amasosiyete acuruza imyenda mu buryo bw’imyitwarire myiza kandi bunoze.” Sorona yateye imbere mu bijyanye n’ibicuruzwa byo mu rugo kandi ikoreshwa mu myenda yo mu rugo. Muri Gashyantare, ikigo cyakoranye na Thindown, umwenda wa mbere kandi wonyine ukozwe mu buryo burambuye 100%, gikoresha ibikoresho bivanze kugira ngo gitange ubushyuhe, ubworoshye n’ubuhumekero bushingiye ku buryo Sorona yoroshye, irabagirana kandi irakomera. Muri Kanama, Puma yashyize ahagaragara Future Z 1.2, ari na yo nkweto ya mbere y’umupira w’amaguru idafite umugozi ifite ubudodo bwa Sorona hejuru.
Kuri Raab, ikirere nta mupaka kigira mu bijyanye n'ikoreshwa ry'ibicuruzwa. Yagize ati: “Twizeye ko tuzakomeza kubona ikoreshwa rya Sorona mu myenda ya siporo, amakoti, imyenda yo kogana n'ibindi bikoresho.”
Perezida wa Polartec, Steve Layton, na we aherutse gushishikazwa cyane na Milliken & Co.. Yagize ati: “Inkuru nziza ni uko ihumure n’imikorere myiza ari byo mpamvu z’ingenzi zo kubaho kwacu,” ibi ni ibyavuzwe ku kirango cyavumbuye imyenda y’ubwoya ya PolarFleece mu 1981 nk’ubundi buryo bwo gusimbura ubwoya. “Mbere, twashyizwe mu isoko ryo hanze, ariko ibyo twavumbuye ku gasongero k’umusozi ubu bikoreshwa mu buryo butandukanye.”
Yatanze urugero kuri Dudley Stephens, ikirango cy’abagore cy’ibikenewe cyane cyibanda ku myenda ishobora kongera gukoreshwa. Polartec inakorana n’ibirango by’imideli nka Moncler, Stone Island, Reigning Champ, na Veilance.
Layton yavuze ko kuri izi sosiyete, ubwiza bw'imyambarire bufite uruhare runini kuko bashaka imyenda yabo idafite uburemere, irabagirana, igabanya ubushuhe n'ubushyuhe bworoshye. Imwe mu zizwi cyane ni Power Air, ikaba ari umwenda uboshye ushobora gupfunyika umwuka kugira ngo ukomeze gushyuha no kugabanya igabanuka rya microfiber. Yavuze ko uyu mwenda "wakunzwe cyane." Nubwo PowerAir yabanje gutanga ubuso burambuye bufite imiterere y'ibiceri imbere, zimwe mu sosiyete zikora ibijyanye n'imyambarire zifuza gukoresha iki giceri cyo hanze nk'igishushanyo. Yagize ati: "Rero ku gisekuru cyacu gitaha, tuzakoresha imiterere itandukanye ya geometrike kugira ngo tuyubake."
Ubusugire bw'ibidukikije nabwo ni gahunda ikomeje ya Polartec. Muri Nyakanga, iyi sosiyete yavuze ko yakuyeho PFAS (perfluoroalkyl na polyfluoroalkyl substances) mu kuvura DWR (udukoko duhora dukoreshwa mu mazi) mu myenda yayo ifite ubushobozi bwo hejuru. PFAS ni imiti ikorwa n'abantu idapfa kubora, ishobora kugumaho no kwangiza ibidukikije n'umubiri w'umuntu.
Leiden yagize ati: “Mu gihe kizaza, tuzakoresha imbaraga nyinshi kugira ngo dukomeze gukora neza mu gihe twongera gutekereza ku nsinga dukoresha kugira ngo zirusheho kuba imvange y’ibinyabuzima.” “Kugera ku buvuzi butari PFAS mu bicuruzwa byacu ni intambwe ikomeye mu kwiyemeza kwacu gukora imyenda ikora neza mu buryo burambye.”
Visi Perezida wa Konti y’ingenzi ya Unifi Global, Chad Bolick, yavuze ko fibre ya polyester ikoreshwa muri Repreve yujuje ibisabwa kugira ngo ihumure, ikore neza kandi ikomeze kubaho, kandi ishobora gukoreshwa mu bicuruzwa bitandukanye kuva ku myenda n’inkweto kugeza ku bicuruzwa byo mu rugo. Yavuze ko kandi “isimbura polyester isanzwe.”
“Ibikoresho byakozwe na Repreve bifite ubwiza n’imikorere nk’ibikozwe muri polyester idasubirwamo—byoroshye kandi bikoroha, kandi bishobora kongerwamo imiterere imwe, nko kunanura, gucunga ubushuhe, kugenzura ubushyuhe, kwirinda amazi, n’ibindi,” Bolik yasobanuye. Byongeye kandi, byagabanyije ikoreshwa ry’ingufu ku kigero cya 45%, ikoreshwa ry’amazi hafi 20%, n’ibyuka bihumanya ikirere ku kigero kirenga 30%.
Unifi ifite kandi ibindi bicuruzwa byagenewe isoko ry’imikorere, harimo na ChillSense, ikaba ari ikoranabuhanga rishya rituma umwenda utwara ubushyuhe mu mubiri vuba iyo ushyizwemo fibre, bigatuma wumva ubukonje. Indi ni TruTemp365, ikora mu minsi y’ubushyuhe kugira ngo ikure ubushuhe mu mubiri kandi igatanga ubushyuhe mu minsi y’ubukonje.
Yagize ati: “Abaguzi bakomeje gusaba ko ibicuruzwa bagura bigira imikorere myiza kurushaho mu gihe bakomeza kugira ihumure. Ariko kandi basaba ko biramba mu gihe bongera imikorere myiza. Abaguzi ni bamwe mu bagize isi ifitanye isano rikomeye. Barushaho kumenya neza imikorere ya plastiki mu nyanja zacu, kandi basobanukiwe ko umutungo kamere wacu urimo kugabanuka, bityo, barushaho kumenya akamaro ko kurengera ibidukikije ku bazaza. Abakiriya bacu basobanukiwe ko abaguzi bifuza ko baba bamwe muri iki gisubizo.”
Ariko si insinga zikoze mu buryo bwa sintetike gusa zihora zihinduka kugira ngo zihuze n’ibyifuzo by’abaguzi kandi zikomeze kubaho. Stuart McCullough, umuyobozi mukuru wa The Woolmark Company, agaragaza "ibyiza by’ibanze" by’ubwoya bwa Merino, butanga ihumure n’imikorere myiza.
McCullough yagize ati: “Abaguzi muri iki gihe bashaka ibirango bifite ubunyangamugayo n’ubwitange mu kubungabunga ibidukikije. Ubwoya bwa Merino si ibikoresho by’agaciro gusa ku myambarire y’abashushanya, ahubwo ni n’igisubizo gishya ku bidukikije ku myambarire n’imyenda ya siporo ikoreshwa mu buryo butandukanye buri munsi. Kuva icyorezo cya COVID-19 cyatangira, icyifuzo cy’abaguzi ku myenda yo mu rugo n’imyenda yo gutwara abantu kikomeje kwiyongera.”
Yongeyeho ko mu ntangiriro z'icyorezo, imyenda yo mu rugo ya merino yarushijeho gukundwa uko abantu bakoraga mu ngo zabo. Ubu bongeye kujya hanze, imyenda y'ubwoya bw'abagenzi, ibabuza kujya mu modoka rusange, kugenda n'amaguru, kwiruka cyangwa kugenda ku magare bajya ku kazi, nabyo byagaragaye ko bikunzwe cyane.
Yavuze ko kugira ngo ibi bigerweho, itsinda rya tekiniki rya Woolmark ririmo gukorana n'ibigo bikomeye mu bijyanye n'inkweto n'imyenda kugira ngo bagure ikoreshwa ry'imigozi mu nkweto zikora neza, nk'inkweto za tekiniki ziboshye za APL. Isosiyete ikora imyenda yo kuboha Studio Eva x Carola iherutse gushyira ahagaragara urukurikirane rw'imyenda y'abagore yo ku magare, ikoresheje ubwoya bwa merino bukozwe mu buryo bwa tekiniki kandi butarimo umugozi, ikoresheje ubudodo bwa merino bwa Südwolle Group bukozwe mu mashini ziboha za Santoni.
McCullough yavuze ko yizera ko gukenera gahunda zirambye ari byo bizamutera imbaraga mu gihe kizaza.
Yagize ati: “Inganda z’imyenda n’imideli ziri mu gitutu cyo guhindura uburyo burambye.” “Izi gitutu zisaba ko ibigo n’inganda bongera gutekereza ku ngamba zabo z’ibikoresho no guhitamo imigozi nta ngaruka nyinshi ku bidukikije. Ubwoya bwo muri Ositaraliya buhora bukora kandi butanga igisubizo cyo guteza imbere imyenda mu buryo burambye.”
Igihe cyo kohereza: Ukwakira-21-2021