Shoko rinotaurwa nevatengi rakajeka uye rakajeka: munyika yapashure pedenda, kunyaradzwa uye kushanda zvakanaka ndizvo zvavanotsvaga. Vagadziri vemachira vakanzwa chikumbiro ichi uye vari kupindura kune zvakasiyana-siyana zvezvinhu nezvigadzirwa kuti vagutse zvinodiwa izvi.
Kwemakumi emakore, machira anoshanda zvakanaka ave chinhu chakakosha muzvipfeko zvemitambo nekunze, asi ikozvino zvigadzirwa zvese kubva kumajaketi emitambo evarume kusvika kumadhirezi evakadzi zviri kushandisa machira ane hunhu hwakasiyana-siyana: kubvisa hunyoro, kubvisa kunhuhwirira, kutonhora, nezvimwewo.
Mumwe wevanotungamira mumusika uyu ndiSchoeller, kambani yekuSwitzerland yakatangira muna 1868. Stephen Kerns, purezidhendi weSchoeller USA, akati vatengi vemazuva ano vari kutsvaga mbatya dzinogona kusangana nezvinodiwa zvakawanda.
“Vanoda kuita zvakanaka, uye vanodawo kushanduka-shanduka,” akadaro. “Makambani ekunze akaenda ikoko nguva pfupi yapfuura, asi ikozvino tinoona kudiwa kwe [makambani ezvipfeko zvechinyakare].” Kunyange zvazvo Schoeller “anga achibata nemakambani ekunze akadai seBonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers naRalph Lauren,” akataura kuti uyu “mutambo mutsva wekufamba netsoka” unobva mumitambo nekuzorora uri kuunza kufarira kukuru kumachira ane hunhu hwehunyanzvi.
Muna Chikumi, Schoeller yakatanga mhando itsva dzezvigadzirwa zvayo zvechirimo cha2023, kusanganisira Dryskin, inova jira rakatambanudzwa rakagadzirwa nepolyester yakadzokororwa uye tekinoroji yeEcorepel Bio. Inogona kutakura hunyoro uye kuramba kukweshwa. Inogona kushandiswa pazvipfeko zvemitambo nehupenyu.
Sekureva kwekambani iyi, kambani iyi yakagadzirisa Schoeller Shape yayo, jira remusanganiswa wedonje rakagadzirwa nepolyamide yakadzokororwa inoshanda zvakanaka munzvimbo dzegorofu nemigwagwa yeguta. Ine matani maviri akafanana nedhinimu yekare netekinoroji ye3XDry Bio. Pamusoro pezvo, kunewo jira reSoftight ripstop, rakagadzirirwa mabhurugwa akagadzirwa nepolyamide yakadzokororwa, rakagadzirwa netekinoroji yeEcorepel Bio, rine mwero wepamusoro wekudzivirira mvura netsvina, risina PFC, uye rakavakirwa pazvinhu zvinogona kushandiswazve.
"Unogona kushandisa machira aya pasi, pamusoro uye majaketi," akadaro Kerns. "Unogona kubatwa nedutu rejecha, uye zvidimbu zvacho hazvinamatire pariri."
Kerns akati vanhu vazhinji vakasangana nekuchinja kwehukuru nekuda kwekuchinja kwemararamiro akakonzerwa nedenda iri, saka iyi "mukana mukuru wekuwadhiropu" yezvipfeko zvinogona kutanurwa pasina kukanganisa runako.
Alexa Raab, mukuru weSorona wezvekutengeserana pasi rose, akabvumirana kuti Sorona ipolymer inoshanda zvakanyanya kubva kuDuPont, yakagadzirwa kubva mu37% yezvinhu zvinogadzirwazve mumiti. Jira rakagadzirwa neSorona rinogara kwenguva refu uye rinotsiva spandex. Rinosanganiswa nedonje, mvere dzemakwai, sirika nedzimwe fibers. Rinewo simba rekudzivirira makwinya uye hunhu hwekupora chimiro, izvo zvinogona kuderedza kuputirwa mumabhegi uye kuputirwa, zvichibvumira vatengi kuchengetedza mbatya dzavo kwenguva refu.
Izvi zvinoratidzawo kutsvagira kwekambani kuchengetedza kuchengetedzwa kwezvakatipoteredza. Machira akasanganiswa eSorona ari kupihwa chitupa kuburikidza nechirongwa chekambani cheCommon Thread certification, icho chakatangwa gore rapera kuti vave nechokwadi chekuti vadyidzani vavo mufekitori vanosangana nezvinodiwa zvikuru zvekushanda kwemachira avo: kutwasuka kwenguva refu, kupora kwechimiro, kutarisirwa nyore, kupfava uye kufema zvakanaka. Kusvika pari zvino, mafekitori angangoita 350 akapihwa chitupa.
"Vagadziri vefaibha vanogona kushandisa Sorona polymers kugadzira maumbirwo akasiyana-siyana anogonesa machira akasiyana-siyana kuratidza hunhu hwakasiyana, kubva kumachira ekunze asingakwizike kusvika kuzvigadzirwa zvekudzivirira zvinoreruka uye zvinofema, kutambanudza nekupora zvachose, uye fur rekugadzira reSorona richangobva kuburitswa," Renee Henze, Mutungamiriri weKushambadzira weDuPont Biomaterials, Global Marketing Director.
“Tinoona kuti vanhu vanoda mbatya dzakanaka, asi vanodawo kuenderana nemakambani anowana machira nenzira yetsika uye ine mutoro,” Raab akawedzera. Sorona yafambira mberi munyaya dzezvigadzirwa zvemumba uye inoshandiswa mumachira emukati. Muna Kukadzi, kambani iyi yakabatana neThindown, jira rekutanga uye rega rega rakadzika pasi, vachishandisa zvinhu zvakasanganiswa kuti zvipe kudziya, kureruka uye kufema zvichibva pakupfava, kutaridzika uye kusimba kweSorona. Muna Nyamavhuvhu, Puma yakatanga Future Z 1.2, inova shangu yekutanga yenhabvu isina tambo ine shinda yeSorona pamusoro.
Kuna Raab, denga harina muganho panyaya yekushandiswa kwezvigadzirwa. "Tinovimba kuti tinogona kuramba tichiona kushandiswa kweSorona muzvipfeko zvemitambo, masutu, hembe dzekushambira nezvimwe zvigadzirwa," akadaro.
Mutungamiri wePolartec Steve Layton achangobva kufarirawo Milliken & Co.. "Mashoko akanaka ndeekuti kunyaradzwa uye kushanda zvakanaka ndizvo zvikonzero zvikuru zvekuvapo kwedu," akadaro nezvekambani iyi, iyo yakagadzira majasi ePolarFleece emhando yepamusoro muna 1981 senzira yekubvisa makushe. "Kare, taiiswa mumusika wekunze, asi zvatakagadzira pamusoro pegomo ikozvino zvave kushandiswa nenzira dzakasiyana."
Akataura nezveDudley Stephens semuenzaniso, kambani yevakadzi inotarisa machira akadzokororwa. Polartec inoshandawo pamwe chete nemabhurugwa efashoni akadai seMoncler, Stone Island, Reigning Champ, naVeilance.
Layton akati kune aya marudzi, runako runoita basa rakakosha nekuti vari kutsvaga zvipfeko zvavo zvisina huremu, zvinopfava, zvinobvisa hunyoro uye zvinodziya zvakapfava. Rimwe remagadzirirwo anonyanya kufarirwa iPower Air, iro riri jira rakarukwa rinogona kuputira mhepo kuti rirambe richidziya uye kuderedza kudonha kwe microfiber. Akati jira iri "rave kufarirwa." Kunyangwe PowerAir pakutanga yakapa nzvimbo yakati sandara ine chimiro chebubble mukati, mamwe marudzi emhando yehupenyu anotarisira kushandisa bubble rekunze sechigadzirwa. "Saka kuchizvarwa chedu chinotevera, tichashandisa maumbirwo akasiyana ejometri kuti tirivake," akadaro.
Kuchengetedza zvakatipoteredza zvakare chirongwa chiri kuenderera mberi chePolartec. Muna Chikunguru, kambani iyi yakati yakabvisa PFAS (perfluoroalkyl nepolyfluoroalkyl substances) mukurapa kwayo DWR (durable water repellent) yejira rayo repamusoro-soro. PFAS chinhu chinogadzirwa nevanhu chisingaori, chinogona kuramba chiripo uye chinokonzera kukuvadza nharaunda nemuviri wemunhu.
"Mune ramangwana, tichashandisa simba rakawanda kuti tirambe tichishanda zvakanaka tichifunga patsva nezvemafiber atinoshandisa kuti tiite kuti ave akagadzirwa nemakemikari," akadaro Leiden. "Kuwana kurapwa kusiri kwePFAS muzvigadzirwa zvedu inhanho yakakosha mukuzvipira kwedu mukugadzira machira anoshanda zvakanaka kwenguva refu."
Mutevedzeri weMutungamiriri weAkaunti yeUnifi Global Key, Chad Bolick, vakati fiber yeRepreve yakagadzirwazve inoshanda zvakanaka inosangana nezvinodiwa kuti ive nerunyararo, kushanda zvakanaka uye kuchengetedzeka, uye inogona kushandiswa muzvigadzirwa zvakasiyana-siyana kubva pazvipfeko neshangu kusvika kuzvigadzirwa zvemumba. Akati zvakare "inotsiva zvakananga polyester yakajairwa."
"Zvigadzirwa zvakagadzirwa neRepreve zvine hunhu hwakafanana uye hunhu hwekushanda sezvigadzirwa zvakagadzirwa nepolyester isina kudzokororwa - zvakapfava uye zvinonyaradza zvakaenzana, uye hunhu humwe chete hunogona kuwedzerwa, hwakadai sekutambanudza, kutonga hunyoro, kudzora kupisa, kudzivirira mvura, nezvimwe," Bolik akatsanangura. Pamusoro pezvo, zvakaderedza kushandiswa kwesimba ne45%, kushandiswa kwemvura neinenge 20%, uye kuburitswa kwemhepo inopisa neanopfuura 30%.
Unifi ine zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvakatsaurirwa kumusika wekushanda zvakanaka, zvinosanganisira ChillSense, inova tekinoroji itsva inobvumira jira kutakura kupisa kubva mumuviri nekukurumidza kana rakaiswa mufibers, zvichiita kuti rinzwe kutonhora. Imwe yacho iTruTemp365, inoshanda pamazuva anodziya kubvisa hunyoro mumuviri uye inopa kudzivirira kupisa pamazuva anotonhora.
"Vatengi vanoramba vachida kuti zvigadzirwa zvavanotenga zvive nemabasa akawanda asi vachiramba vakagadzikana," akadaro. "Asi vanodawo kuchengetedzeka uku vachivandudza mashandiro. Vatengi chikamu chenyika yakabatana zvikuru. Vari kuziva zvakanyanya nezvekufamba kukuru kwepurasitiki mumakungwa edu, uye vanonzwisisa kuti zviwanikwa zvedu zvechisikigo zviri kupera, saka, Vari kuziva zvakanyanya kukosha kwekuchengetedza nharaunda kuzvizvarwa zvinotevera. Vatengi vedu vanonzwisisa kuti vatengi vanoda kuti vave chikamu chemhinduro iyi."
Asi hazvisi zvinhu zvekugadzira chete zviri kuramba zvichichinja kuti zvigutse kudiwa kwevatengi uye kugara kwenguva refu. Stuart McCullough, mukuru wekambani yeThe Woolmark, anotaura nezve "zvakanakira zvemukati" zveMerino wool, izvo zvinopa nyaradzo uye mashandiro akanaka.
"Vatengi nhasi vanotsvaga mhando dzezvipfeko zvine hunhu hwakanaka uye kuzvipira kune zvakatipoteredza. Makushe eMerino haasi chinhu chemhando yepamusoro chete chefashoni yevagadziri, asiwo mhinduro itsva yezvakatipoteredza yemafashoni ezuva nezuva nehembe dzemitambo. Kubva pakatanga COVID-19, kudiwa kwevatengi kwembatya dzemumba nedzekufamba netsoka kuri kuramba kuchiwedzera," akadaro McCullough.
Akawedzera kuti pakutanga kwedenda, mbatya dzemumba dzemakushe emerino dzakawedzera kufarirwa sezvo vanhu vaishanda vari kudzimba. Iye zvino dzava kubuda zvakare, mbatya dzemakushe dzevafambi, dzinovadzivirira kubva muzvifambiso zveveruzhinji, kufamba netsoka, kumhanya kana kuchovha mabhasikoro kuenda kubasa, zvavewo zvakakurumbira zvikuru.
Akati kuti vashandise mukana uyu, timu yehunyanzvi yeWoolmark iri kushanda pamwe chete nemakambani makuru muminda yeshangu nembatya kuti vawedzere kushandiswa kweshinda mushangu dzinoshanda, dzakadai seshangu dzeAPL dzakarukwa. Kambani yekugadzira hembe dzemachira Studio Eva x Carola ichangobva kutanga mhando dzakasiyana dzezvipfeko zvevakadzi zvemabhasikoro, vachishandisa mvere dzemachira dzemerino dzisina musono, vachishandisa shinda dzemachira dzeSüdwolle Group dzakagadzirwa pamichina yekuruka yeSantoni.
Achitarisa mberi, McCullough akati anotenda kuti kudiwa kwehurongwa hwakasimba ndiko kuchatungamira mune ramangwana.
"Maindasitiri emachira nemafashoni ari pasi pekumanikidzwa kuti achinje kune masisitimu anochengetedza nharaunda," akadaro. "Dzvinyiriro idzi dzinoda kuti mabrandi nevagadziri vafungezve nezvemaitiro avo ekugadzira zvinhu uye vasarudze machira asina kukanganisa nharaunda zvakanyanya. Makushe ekuAustralia ane hunhu hwekufamba kwenguva uye anopa mhinduro yekuvandudza machira anochengetedza nharaunda."
Nguva yekutumira: Gumiguru-21-2021