Isigidimi esidluliselwa ngabathengi sicacile kwaye sicacile: kwihlabathi elisemva kobhubhane, intuthuzelo kunye nokusebenza kakuhle zezona zinto bazifunayo. Abavelisi belaphu balivile eli khwelo kwaye basabela kwizixhobo ezahlukeneyo kunye neemveliso ukuhlangabezana nezi mfuno.
Kangangamashumi eminyaka, amalaphu asebenza kakuhle ebesoloko esisithako esiphambili kwimpahla yezemidlalo neyangaphandle, kodwa ngoku zonke iimveliso ukusuka kwiijakethi zemidlalo zamadoda ukuya kwiingubo zabasetyhini zisebenzisa amalaphu aneempawu zobugcisa ezahlukeneyo: ukufunxa umswakama, ukususa ivumba elibi, ukubanda, njl.
Omnye weenkokheli kweli candelo lemarike yiSchoeller, inkampani yaseSwitzerland eyaqala ngo-1868. UStephen Kerns, umongameli weSchoeller USA, uthe abathengi banamhlanje bafuna impahla enokuhlangabezana neemfuno ezininzi.
“Bafuna ukusebenza kakuhle, kwaye bafuna nokuguquguquka,” utshilo. “Iimpawu zangaphandle ziye apho kungekudala, kodwa ngoku sibona imfuno [yeempawu zempahla zesintu].” Nangona uSchoeller “ebesoloko esebenzisana neempawu eziwela imida ezifana neBonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers kunye neRalph Lauren,” uthe lo “mdlalo omtsha wokuhambahamba” ovela kwimidlalo nokuzonwabisa uzisa umdla ngakumbi kwimpahla eneempawu zobugcisa.
NgoJuni, iSchoeller yazisa iinguqulelo ezintsha ezininzi zeemveliso zayo entwasahlobo ka-2023, kuquka iDryskin, elilaphu elinolulo oluphindwe kabini elenziwe nge-polyester ephinde yasetyenziswa kunye netekhnoloji ye-Ecorepel Bio. Ingathutha umswakama kwaye imelane nokukrazuka. Ingasetyenziselwa iimpahla zemidlalo kunye nezokuPhila.
Ngokutsho kwenkampani, inkampani ihlaziye iSchoeller Shape yayo, ilaphu elixutywe ngumqhaphu elenziwe ngepolyamide ephinde yasetyenziswa esebenza kakuhle kumabala egalufa nasezitalatweni zesixeko. Inesiphumo semibala emibini esikhumbuza itekhnoloji yedenim endala kunye ne-3XDry Bio. Ukongeza, kukwakho nelaphu leSoftight ripstop, elenzelwe iibhulukhwe ezenziwe ngepolyamide ephinde yasetyenziswa, elenziwe ngetekhnoloji ye-Ecorepel Bio, elinomgangatho ophezulu wokumelana namanzi kunye namabala, elingenayo i-PFC, kwaye lisekelwe kwizinto ezisetyenziswa ngokutsha.
“Ungawasebenzisa la malaphu kwiimpahla ezisezantsi, ezisezantsi nakwiijakethi,” utshilo uKerns. “Ungabanjwa sisivuthuvuthu sesanti, kwaye amasuntswana anganamatheli kuso.”
UKerns uthe abantu abaninzi baye batshintsha ubungakanani ngenxa yotshintsho kwindlela yokuphila olubangelwe yibhubhane, ngoko ke eli “lithuba elikhulu leempahla” zeempahla ezinokwandiswa ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa bubuhle.
U-Alexa Raab, intloko ye-branding yehlabathi kunye nonxibelelwano eSorona, uvumile ukuba iSorona yipolymer esebenza kakhulu evela kwi-bio evela kwiDuPont, eyenziwe ngezithako zezityalo ezihlaziyekayo ezingama-37%. Ilaphu elenziwe yiSorona linokuqina okuhlala ixesha elide kwaye lithatha indawo ye-spandex. Zixutywe nomqhaphu, uboya, isilika kunye nezinye iifayibha. Zikwanazo neempawu zokumelana nemibimbi kunye nokubuyisela imo, nto leyo enokunciphisa ukupakishwa kwempahla kunye nokupakishwa kwayo, okuvumela abathengi ukuba bagcine iimpahla zabo ixesha elide.
Oku kukwabonisa ukufuna kwenkampani ukuzinza. Amalaphu axutyiweyo eSorona afumana isiqinisekiso ngenkqubo yenkampani yesatifikethi seCommon Thread, eyasungulwa kunyaka ophelileyo ukuqinisekisa ukuba amaqabane abo efektri ahlangabezana nemigangatho ephambili yokusebenza kwamalaphu abo: ukuthamba okuhlala ixesha elide, ukubuyiselwa kwemilo, ukhathalelo olulula, ukuthamba kunye nokuphefumla. Okwangoku, malunga neefektri ezingama-350 ziqinisekisiwe.
“Abavelisi beefayibha banokusebenzisa iipolymers zeSorona ukwenza izakhiwo ezininzi ezikhethekileyo ezivumela iintlobo ngeentlobo zeelaphu ukuba zibonise iimpawu ezahlukeneyo, ukusuka kwilaphu zangaphandle ezingabinamibimbi ukuya kwiimveliso zokukhusela ezikhaphukhaphu neziphefumlayo, ukolula okuhlala ixesha elide kunye nokubuyisela, kunye noboya obusandul’ ukuqaliswa beSorona,” utshilo uRenee Henze, uMlawuli weNtengiso yeHlabathi kwiDuPont Biomaterials.
“Siyabona ukuba abantu bafuna iimpahla ezikhululekileyo, kodwa bafuna nokuhambelana neenkampani ezithenga amalaphu ngendlela yokuziphatha nefanelekileyo,” wongeze watsho uRaab. I-Sorona yenze inkqubela kwicandelo leemveliso zasekhaya kwaye isetyenziswa kwiilaphu zokugquma. NgoFebruwari, inkampani isebenzisane ne-Thindown, ilaphu lokuqala neliyi-100% kuphela, isebenzisa izinto ezixutyiweyo ukubonelela ngobushushu, ukukhanya kunye nokuphefumla ngokusekelwe kuthambileyo lwe-Sorona, ukuguda kunye nokuthamba. Ngo-Agasti, i-Puma yazisa i-Future Z 1.2, esisihlangu sokuqala sebhola ekhatywayo esingenantambo esinentambo ye-Sorona phezulu.
KuRaab, isibhakabhaka asinamda malunga nokusetyenziswa kwemveliso. “Siyathemba ukuba singaqhubeka nokubona ukusetyenziswa kweSorona kwiimpahla zemidlalo, iisuti, iimpahla zokudada nezinye iimveliso,” utshilo.
Umongameli wePolartec uSteve Layton naye kutshanje unomdla ngakumbi kwiMilliken & Co.. “Iindaba ezimnandi zezokuba intuthuzelo nokusebenza kakuhle zezona zizathu ziphambili zokubakho kwethu,” utshilo malunga nophawu, olwavelisa iisweta zefleece ezenziwe ngePolarFleece ezisebenza kakuhle ngo-1981 njengendlela eyahlukileyo kunoboya. “Ngaphambili, sasibekwe kwimarike yangaphandle, kodwa into esiyiyileyo encotsheni yentaba ngoku isetyenziswa ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo.”
Ukhankanye uDudley Stephens njengomzekelo, uphawu lwezinto ezibalulekileyo zabasetyhini olugxile kwimpahla esetyenzisiweyo. IPolartec ikwasebenzisana neenkampani zefashoni ezifana neMoncler, iStone Island, iReigning Champ, kunye neVeilance.
ULayton uthe kwezi bhrendi, ubuhle budlala indima ebalulekileyo kuba bafuna ubushushu obungenabunzima, obuthambileyo, obususa umswakama kunye nobushushu obuthambileyo kwiimveliso zabo zempahla zendlela yokuphila. Enye yezona zidumileyo yiPower Air, elilaphu elilukiweyo elinokusonga umoya ukuze lihlale lifudumele kwaye linciphise ukuchitheka kwe-microfiber. Uthe eli laphu "liye lathandwa." Nangona ekuqaleni iPowerAir yayibonelela ngomphezulu othe tyaba onesakhiwo seqamza ngaphakathi, ezinye iimpawu zendlela yokuphila zinethemba lokusebenzisa iqamza langaphandle njengophawu loyilo. "Ngoko ke kwisizukulwana sethu esilandelayo, siza kusebenzisa iimilo ezahlukeneyo zejometri ukuyakha," utshilo.
Uzinzo lukwaliphulo eliqhubekayo lePolartec. NgoJulayi, inkampani yathi yasusa iPFAS (perfluoroalkyl kunye nepolyfluoroalkyl substances) kunyango lwe-DWR (durable water repellent) kwilaphu layo elisebenza kakuhle. I-PFAS sisithako sekhemikhali esenziwe ngumntu esingaboliyo, esinokuhlala sibangele umonakalo kwindalo esingqongileyo nasemzimbeni womntu.
“Kwixesha elizayo, siza kuchitha amandla amaninzi ukugcina ukusebenza kakuhle ngelixa sicinga ngokutsha ngeefayibha esizisebenzisayo ukuze sizenze zibe sempilweni ngakumbi,” utshilo uLeiden. “Ukufezekisa unyango olungelulo lwe-PFAS kumgca wemveliso yethu yimbali ebalulekileyo ekuzibopheleleni kwethu ekuvelisweni okuzinzileyo kweelaphu ezisebenza kakuhle.”
Usekela Mongameli we-Unifi Global Key Account uChad Bolick uthe i-Repreve recycled performance polyester fiber yenkampani iyahlangabezana neemfuno zentuthuzelo, ukusebenza kunye nokuzinza, kwaye ingasetyenziswa kwiimveliso ezahlukeneyo ukusuka kwiimpahla kunye nezihlangu ukuya kwiimveliso zasekhaya. Uthe ikwa "yindawo ethe ngqo ye-polyester esemgangathweni engaqhelekanga."
“Iimveliso ezenziwe ngeRepreve zinomgangatho ofanayo kunye neempawu zokusebenza njengeemveliso ezenziwe nge-polyester engaphinda isetyenziswe-zithambile kwaye zikhululekile ngokulinganayo, kwaye iimpawu ezifanayo zinokongezwa, ezinje ngokuzolula, ulawulo lomswakama, ulawulo lobushushu, ukuthintela amanzi, kunye nokunye,” ucacisile uBolik. Ukongeza, inciphise ukusetyenziswa kwamandla ngama-45%, ukusetyenziswa kwamanzi phantse ngama-20%, kunye nokukhutshwa kwegesi ezibangela ubushushu ngaphezulu kwama-30%.
I-Unifi ikwanazo nezinye iimveliso ezinikezelwe kwimarike yokusebenza, kuquka iChillSense, eyiteknoloji entsha evumela ilaphu ukuba lidlulise ubushushu emzimbeni ngokukhawuleza xa lifakwe kwiifayibha, nto leyo edala ukuziva upholile. Enye yiTruTemp365, esebenza ngeentsuku ezifudumeleyo ukususa umswakama emzimbeni kwaye inika ubushushu ngeentsuku ezibandayo.
“Abathengi bayaqhubeka befuna ukuba iimveliso abazithengayo zibe neempawu zokusebenza ngakumbi ngelixa begcina intuthuzelo,” utshilo. “Kodwa bafuna nokuzinza ngelixa bephucula ukusebenza. Abathengi bayinxalenye yehlabathi elidibeneyo kakhulu. Bayazi ngakumbi ngokujikeleza okukhulu kweplastiki kwiilwandle zethu, kwaye bayaqonda ukuba izixhobo zethu zendalo ziyaphela, ngoko ke, bayazi ngakumbi ngokubaluleka kokukhusela okusingqongileyo kwizizukulwana ezizayo. Abathengi bethu bayaqonda ukuba abathengi bafuna babe yinxalenye yesi sisombululo.”
Kodwa ayizizo nje iifayibha ezenziweyo ezihlala zitshintsha ukuze zihlangabezane neemfuno ezikhulayo zabathengi kunye nokuzinza. UStuart McCullough, umlawuli ophetheyo weWoolmark Company, ukhankanya "iingenelo ezisisiseko" zoboya beMerino, obunika intuthuzelo kunye nokusebenza kakuhle.
“Abathengi namhlanje bafuna iimpawu ezithembekileyo nezizinikeleyo kwindalo esingqongileyo. Uboya beMerino abuyonto nje yokunethezeka kwimfashini yabayili, kodwa bukwasisisombululo esitsha sendalo esingqongileyo kwimfashini yemihla ngemihla kunye neempahla zemidlalo. Ukusukela oko kwaqhambuka i-COVID-19, imfuno yabathengi yeempahla zasekhaya kunye neempahla zokuhamba iyaqhubeka nokukhula,” utshilo uMcCullough.
Wongeze wathi ekuqaleni kobhubhane, iimpahla zasekhaya ze-merino wool zaye zathandwa ngakumbi njengoko abantu babesebenza besekhaya. Ngoku baphumile kwakhona, iimpahla ze-wool zokuhamba ngeenyawo, ezibagcina kude nezithuthi zikawonke-wonke, ukuhamba ngeenyawo, ukubaleka okanye ukukhwela ibhayisekile ukuya emsebenzini, nazo ziye zabonakala zithandwa kakhulu.
Uthe ukuze basebenzise oku, iqela lobuchwephesha leWoolmark lisebenzisana neempawu eziphambili kwicandelo lezihlangu kunye neempahla ukwandisa ukusetyenziswa kweefayibha kwizihlangu ezisebenzayo, ezifana nezihlangu zobuchwephesha zokubaleka ezithungiweyo ze-APL. Inkampani yoyilo lwempahla ethungiweyo iStudio Eva x Carola isandula ukuqalisa uthotho lweeprototypes zempahla yokukhwela ibhayisekile yabasetyhini, kusetyenziswa uboya be-merino obungenamthungo, kusetyenziswa intambo yoboya be-merino yeSüdwolle Group eyenziwe ngoomatshini bokuluka beSantoni.
Ejonge phambili, uMcCullough uthe ukholelwa ukuba imfuneko yeenkqubo ezizinzileyo ngakumbi iya kuba yeyona nto iphambili kwixesha elizayo.
“Amashishini eempahla zelaphu kunye nefashoni aphantsi koxinzelelo lokutshintshela kwiinkqubo ezizinzileyo ngakumbi,” utshilo. “Olu xinzelelo lufuna iimpawu kunye nabavelisi ukuba baphinde bacinge ngamaqhinga abo ezinto eziphathekayo kwaye bakhethe iifayibha ezingenampembelelo ingako kwindalo. Uboya base-Australia bujikeleza ngokwemvelo kwaye bubonelela ngesisombululo sophuhliso lwempahla zelaphu oluzinzileyo.”
Ixesha lokuthumela: Okthobha-21-2021