Umyalezo odluliselwa ngabathengi ucacile futhi ucacile: ezweni langemva kobhubhane, induduzo nokusebenza kahle yilokho abakufunayo. Abakhiqizi bezindwangu sebezwile lesi sicelo futhi basabela ezintweni zokwakha nemikhiqizo eyahlukahlukene ukuze bahlangabezane nalezi zidingo.
Sekungamashumi eminyaka, izindwangu ezisebenza kahle kakhulu ziyisithako esibalulekile kwezemidlalo nakwezingubo zangaphandle, kodwa manje yonke imikhiqizo kusukela kumajakethi ezemidlalo amadoda kuya ezingutsheni zabesifazane isebenzisa izindwangu ezinezimpawu zobuchwepheshe ezilandelayo: ukususa umswakama, ukususa iphunga, ukubanda, njll.
Omunye wabaholi kule makethe yiSchoeller, inkampani yaseSwitzerland eyaqala ngo-1868. UStephen Kerns, umongameli weSchoeller USA, uthe abathengi banamuhla bafuna izingubo ezingahlangabezana nezidingo eziningi.
“Bafuna ukwenza kahle, futhi bafuna nokuguquguquka,” esho. “Imikhiqizo yangaphandle iye lapho esikhathini esingeside esidlule, kodwa manje sibona isidingo [semikhiqizo yezingubo zendabuko].” Nakuba uSchoeller “ebesebenzelana nemikhiqizo engaphandle kwemingcele efana neBonobos, Theory, Brooks Brothers kanye neRalph Lauren,” uthe lo “mdlalo omusha wokuhamba” osuselwa kwezemidlalo nokuzilibazisa uletha isithakazelo esikhulu ezindwangu ezinezimfanelo zobuchwepheshe.
NgoJuni, iSchoeller yethule izinhlobo eziningana ezintsha zemikhiqizo yayo entwasahlobo ka-2023, okuhlanganisa ne-Dryskin, okuyindwangu enwetshiwe enezindlela ezimbili eyenziwe nge-polyester ephinde yasetshenziswa kanye nobuchwepheshe be-Ecorepel Bio. Ingathutha umswakama futhi imelane nokuguguleka. Ingasetshenziswa kwezemidlalo kanye nezingubo zokuphila.
Ngokusho kwenkampani, inkampani ibuyekeze i-Schoeller Shape yayo, indwangu exutshwe ukotini eyenziwe nge-polyamide ephinde yasetshenziswa esebenza kahle ezinkundleni zegalofu nasemigwaqweni yedolobha. Inomphumela wemibala emibili ofana nobuchwepheshe be-denim obudala kanye ne-3XDry Bio. Ngaphezu kwalokho, kukhona nendwangu ye-Softight ripstop, eyenzelwe amabhulukwe enziwe nge-polyamide ephinde yasetshenziswa, eyenziwe ngobuchwepheshe be-Ecorepel Bio, enezinga eliphezulu lokumelana namanzi namabala, engena-PFC, futhi isekelwe ezintweni zokusetshenziswa ezivuselelekayo.
“Ungazisebenzisa lezi zindwangu ezingaphansi, ezingenhla kanye namabhantshi,” kusho uKerns. “Ungase ubhajwe esivunguvungwini sesihlabathi, futhi izinhlayiya ngeke zinamathele kuso.”
UKerns uthe abantu abaningi baye babhekana nokushintsha kosayizi ngenxa yezinguquko endleleni yokuphila ezibangelwe ubhubhane, ngakho-ke leli “yithuba elikhulu lezingubo zokugqoka” zezingubo ezinganwetshwa ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa ubuhle.
U-Alexa Raab, inhloko yomkhiqizo womhlaba wonke kanye nokuxhumana kweSorona, uvumile ukuthi iSorona iyi-polymer esebenza kahle kakhulu evela eDuPont, eyenziwe ngezithako zezitshalo ezivuselelekayo ezingama-37%. Indwangu eyenziwe ngeSorona inokuqina okuhlala isikhathi eside futhi ithatha indawo ye-spandex. Zixutshwe nokotini, uboya, usilika kanye neminye imicu. Ziphinde zibe nezakhiwo zokumelana nemibimbi kanye nokubuyisa ukuma, okunganciphisa ukugoba kanye nokunamathela, okuvumela abathengi ukuthi bagcine izingubo zabo isikhathi eside.
Lokhu futhi kubonisa ukuphishekela kwenkampani ukusimama. Izindwangu ezihlanganisiwe zeSorona zinikezwa isitifiketi ngohlelo lwenkampani lwesitifiketi se-Common Thread, olwasungulwa ngonyaka odlule ukuqinisekisa ukuthi ozakwabo basefektri bahlangabezana nezindinganiso zokusebenza ezibalulekile zezindwangu zabo: ukuqina okuhlala isikhathi eside, ukululama kwesimo, ukunakekelwa okulula, ukuthamba kanye nokuphefumula. Kuze kube manje, cishe izimboni ezingu-350 seziqinisekisiwe.
“Abakhiqizi befayibha bangasebenzisa ama-polymer e-Sorona ukudala izakhiwo eziningi ezihlukile ezivumela izinhlobo ezahlukene zezindwangu ukuthi zibonise izakhiwo ezahlukene, kusukela ezindwangu zangaphandle ezingabi nemibimbi kuya emikhiqizweni yokuvikela ekhanyayo nephefumulayo, ukwelula nokubuyisela unomphela, kanye noboya bokwenziwa be-Sorona obusanda kwethulwa,” kusho uRenee Henze, uMqondisi Wokumaketha Womhlaba Wonke we-DuPont Biomaterials.
“Siyabona ukuthi abantu bafuna izingubo ezikhululekile kakhudlwana, kodwa futhi bafuna ukuhambisana nezinkampani ezithola izindwangu ngokuziphatha nangokuzibophezela,” kusho uRaab. I-Sorona ithuthuke kakhulu emkhakheni wemikhiqizo yasekhaya futhi isetshenziswa emigqokweni. NgoFebhuwari, inkampani ibambisene ne-Thindown, indwangu yokuqala neyingu-100% kuphela, isebenzisa izinto ezihlanganisiwe ukuze inikeze ukufudumala, ukukhanya kanye nokuphefumula okusekelwe ekuthambekeni, ukuguguleka kanye nokunwebeka kwe-Sorona. Ngo-Agasti, i-Puma yethule i-Future Z 1.2, okuyizicathulo zokuqala zebhola ezingenantambo ezinentambo ye-Sorona phezulu.
KuRaab, isibhakabhaka asinamkhawulo mayelana nokusetshenziswa komkhiqizo. “Siyethemba ukuthi singaqhubeka nokubona ukusetshenziswa kweSorona kwezemidlalo, amasudi, izingubo zokubhukuda neminye imikhiqizo,” kusho yena.
Umongameli wePolartec uSteve Layton naye muva nje ube nesithakazelo esikhulu kuMilliken & Co.. “Izindaba ezinhle ukuthi induduzo nokusebenza kahle yizona zizathu eziyisisekelo zokuba khona kwethu,” esho ngomkhiqizo, owasungula amajezi e-PolarFleece asebenza kahle kakhulu ngo-1981 njengendlela ehlukile kunoboya. “Ngaphambilini, sasihlukaniswa emakethe yangaphandle, kodwa lokho esakusungula esiqongweni sentaba manje kusetshenziswa ngezindlela ezahlukene.”
Ucaphune uDudley Stephens njengesibonelo, uhlobo lwezimpahla ezibalulekile zabesifazane olugxile ezindwangu ezisetshenziswe kabusha. I-Polartec iphinde ibambisane nemikhiqizo yemfashini efana neMoncler, iStone Island, iReigning Champ, kanye neVeilance.
ULayton uthe kulezi zinhlobo, ubuhle budlala indima ebalulekile ngoba bafuna ukufudumala okungenasisindo, okunwebekayo, okususa umswakama kanye nokufudumala okuthambile kwemikhiqizo yabo yezingubo zendlela yokuphila. Enye yezingubo ezidumile kakhulu yiPower Air, okuyindwangu ethungiwe engasonga umoya ukuze ihlale ifudumele futhi inciphise ukuchitheka kwe-microfiber. Uthe le ndwangu “isithandwa kakhulu.” Nakuba ekuqaleni iPowerAir yayinesakhiwo esiyisicaba esinesakhiwo sebhamuza ngaphakathi, ezinye izinhlobo zendlela yokuphila zinethemba lokusebenzisa ibhamuza langaphandle njengesici sokuklama. “Ngakho-ke esizukulwaneni sethu esilandelayo, sizosebenzisa izimo ezahlukene zejometri ukuze silakhe,” kusho yena.
Ukusimama nakho kuyisinyathelo esiqhubekayo sePolartec. NgoJulayi, inkampani yathi isuse i-PFAS (perfluoroalkyl kanye ne-polyfluoroalkyl substances) ekwelapheni i-DWR (durable water repellent) yochungechunge lwayo lwendwangu olusebenza kahle kakhulu. I-PFAS iyikhemikhali eyenziwe ngumuntu engaboli, engahlala futhi ibangele umonakalo emvelweni nasemzimbeni womuntu.
“Esikhathini esizayo, sizotshala amandla amaningi ukuze silondoloze ukusebenza kahle ngenkathi sicabanga kabusha ngemicu esiyisebenzisayo ukuze siyenze ibe ngeyangempela,” kusho uLeiden. “Ukuthola ukwelashwa okungeyona i-PFAS emgqeni wethu womkhiqizo kuyisinyathelo esibalulekile ekuzibophezeleni kwethu ekukhiqizeni izindwangu ezisebenza kahle kakhulu.”
IPhini likaMongameli we-Unifi Global Key Account uChad Bolick uthe i-Repreve recycled performance polyester fiber yenkampani ihlangabezana nezidingo zenduduzo, ukusebenza kanye nokusimama, futhi ingasetshenziswa emikhiqizweni eyahlukahlukene kusukela ezingutsheni nasezicathulweni kuya emikhiqizweni yasekhaya. Uthe futhi "iyindawo eqondile ye-polyester ejwayelekile engabonakali."
“Imikhiqizo eyenziwe nge-Repreve inekhwalithi efanayo kanye nezici zokusebenza njengemikhiqizo eyenziwe nge-polyester engaphinde isetshenziswe - ithambile futhi ikhululekile ngokulinganayo, futhi izakhiwo ezifanayo zingangezwa, njengokwelula, ukuphathwa komswakama, ukulawulwa kokushisa, ukuvimbela amanzi, nokuningi,” kuchaza uBolik. Ngaphezu kwalokho, inciphise ukusetshenziswa kwamandla ngo-45%, ukusetshenziswa kwamanzi cishe ngo-20%, kanye nokukhishwa kwamagesi okushisa ngokushisa ngo-30%.
I-Unifi ineminye imikhiqizo enikezelwe emakethe yokusebenza, okuhlanganisa ne-ChillSense, okuwubuchwepheshe obusha obuvumela indwangu ukuthi idlulise ukushisa emzimbeni ngokushesha uma ifakwe imicu, okudala umuzwa wokuphola. Enye yi-TruTemp365, esebenza ngezinsuku ezifudumele ukususa umswakama emzimbeni futhi ihlinzeka ngokushisa ngezinsuku ezibandayo.
“Abathengi bayaqhubeka nokufuna ukuthi imikhiqizo abayithengayo ibe nezimfanelo zokusebenza ezengeziwe ngenkathi begcina induduzo,” esho. “Kodwa futhi bafuna ukusimama ngenkathi bethuthukisa ukusebenza. Abathengi bayingxenye yezwe elixhumene kakhulu. Bayazi kabanzi ngokugeleza okukhulu kwepulasitiki olwandle lwethu, futhi bayaqonda ukuthi izinsiza zethu zemvelo ziyaphela, ngakho-ke, bayazi kakhulu ukubaluleka kokuvikela imvelo yezizukulwane ezizayo. Amakhasimende ethu ayaqonda ukuthi abathengi bafuna babe yingxenye yalesi sixazululo.”
Kodwa akuzona nje izintambo zokwenziwa ezihlala zishintsha ukuze zihlangabezane nesidingo esikhulayo sabathengi kanye nokusimama. UStuart McCullough, umqondisi ophethe we-The Woolmark Company, ukhomba "izinzuzo eziyisisekelo" zoboya be-Merino, obunikeza induduzo nokusebenza kahle.
“Abathengi namuhla bafuna imikhiqizo enobuqotho nokuzibophezela emvelweni. Uboya be-Merino abuyona nje into yokunethezeka yemfashini yabaklami, kodwa futhi buyisisombululo esisha semvelo semfashini yansuku zonke kanye nezingubo zezemidlalo. Kusukela kwaqubuka i-COVID-19, isidingo sabathengi sezingubo zasekhaya kanye nezingubo zokuhamba siyaqhubeka nokukhula,” kusho uMcCullough.
Wanezela ngokuthi ekuqaleni kobhubhane, izingubo zasekhaya zoboya be-merino zathandwa kakhulu njengoba abantu babesebenza emakhaya. Manje sebephumile futhi, izingubo zoboya zabagibeli, ezibagcina kude nezinto zokuhamba zomphakathi, ukuhamba ngezinyawo, ukugijima noma ukugibela amabhayisikili baya emsebenzini, nazo ziye zabonakala zithandwa kakhulu.
Uthe ukuze basebenzise lokhu, ithimba lobuchwepheshe leWoolmark lisebenzisana nemikhiqizo emikhulu emkhakheni wezicathulo nezingubo ukuze bandise ukusetshenziswa kwemicu ezicathulweni zokusebenza, njengezicathulo zokugijima ezithungiwe zobuchwepheshe ze-APL. Inkampani yokuklama i-knitwear i-Studio Eva x Carola isanda kwethula uchungechunge lwezinhlobo zezingubo zokugibela amabhayisikili zabesifazane, kusetshenziswa uboya be-merino obungenamthungo, kusetshenziswa uboya be-merino be-Südwolle Group obenziwe emishinini yokuthunga i-Santoni.
Ebheka phambili, uMcCullough uthe ukholelwa ukuthi isidingo sezinhlelo ezizinzile kakhulu sizoba yisona sizathu esizosiqhuba esikhathini esizayo.
“Izimboni zezindwangu nezemfashini zingaphansi kwengcindezi yokushintshela ezinhlelweni ezihlala isikhathi eside,” kusho yena. “Lezi zingcindezi zidinga ukuthi imikhiqizo nabakhiqizi bacabange kabusha amasu abo ezinto ezibonakalayo futhi bakhethe imicu engaba nomthelela omkhulu emvelweni. Uboya base-Australia buyimvelo ejikelezayo futhi buhlinzeka ngesisombululo sokuthuthukiswa kwezindwangu okuhlala isikhathi eside.”
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Okthoba-21-2021