He mea kākau ʻo Sharmon Lebby a he mea hoʻonaninani lole hoʻomau nāna e aʻo a hōʻike e pili ana i ka hui ʻana o ke kaiapuni, ke ʻano lole, a me ke kaiāulu BIPOC.
ʻO ka hulu hipa ka lole no nā lā anuanu a me nā pō anuanu. Pili kēia lole i nā lole o waho. He mea palupalu a palupalu ia, i hana pinepine ʻia me ka polyester. Hana ʻia nā mittens, nā pāpale, a me nā scarves i nā mea synthetic i kapa ʻia he polar fleece.
E like me nā lole maʻamau a pau, makemake mākou e aʻo hou e pili ana i ka manaʻo ʻia he hoʻomau ka hulu hipa a pehea e hoʻohālikelike ʻia ai me nā lole ʻē aʻe.
Ua hana mua ʻia ka hulu hipa ma ke ʻano he pani no ka hulu hipa. I ka makahiki 1981, ua alakaʻi ka hui ʻAmelika ʻo Malden Mills (i kēia manawa ʻo Polartec) i ka hoʻomohala ʻana i nā mea polyester palaki. Ma o ka laulima ʻana me Patagonia, e hoʻomau lākou i ka hana ʻana i nā lole ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi, ʻoi aku ka māmā ma mua o ka hulu hipa, akā he mau waiwai like nō ia me nā olonā holoholona.
He ʻumi makahiki ma hope mai, ua kū mai kahi hui pū ʻana ma waena o Polartec lāua ʻo Patagonia; i kēia manawa, ʻo ke kālele nui ʻana ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā ʻōmole palaki hana hou ʻia e hana i ka hulu hipa. He ʻōmaʻomaʻo ka lole mua, ʻo ia ke kala o nā ʻōmole hana hou ʻia. I kēia lā, lawe nā lama i nā hana hou aʻe e hoʻokeʻokeʻo a hoʻoluʻu paha i nā olonā polyester hana hou ʻia ma mua o ke kau ʻana i nā olonā polyester hana hou ʻia ma ka mākeke. Aia i kēia manawa kahi ʻano kala i loaʻa no nā mea hulu hipa i hana ʻia mai nā ʻōpala ma hope o ka mea kūʻai aku.
ʻOiai ʻo ka hulu hipa ka mea maʻamau i hana ʻia me ka polyester, ma ke ʻano hana hiki ke hana ʻia me ka aneane o kēlā me kēia ʻano fiber.
E like me ka velvet, ʻo ka hiʻohiʻona nui o ka lole huluhulu polar ka lole huluhulu. No ka hana ʻana i nā ʻili fluff a i ʻole nā ʻili i hāpai ʻia, hoʻohana ʻo Malden Mills i nā pulumu uea kila cylindrical e uhaʻi i nā loop i hana ʻia i ka wā ulana. Hoʻokuke pū kēia i nā olonā i luna. Eia naʻe, hiki i kēia ʻano hana ke hana i ka pilling o ka lole, e hopena ana i nā pōpō olonā liʻiliʻi ma luna o ka lole.
I mea e hoʻoponopono ai i ka pilikia o ka pilling, ua "kahi ʻia" ke ʻano o ka mea, ka mea e palupalu ai ka lole a hiki ke mālama i kona ʻano no ka manawa lōʻihi. I kēia lā, hoʻohana ʻia ka ʻenehana kumu like e hana i ka hulu hipa.
ʻO nā ʻāpana polyethylene terephthalate ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke kaʻina hana fiber. Hoʻoheheʻe ʻia nā ʻōpala a laila hoʻokomo ʻia i loko o kahi disk me nā lua liʻiliʻi loa i kapa ʻia he spinneret.
Ke puka mai nā ʻāpana i hoʻoheheʻe ʻia mai loko mai o nā lua, hoʻomaka lākou e hoʻomaʻalili a paʻakikī i loko o nā olonā. A laila milo ʻia nā olonā ma luna o nā wili wela i loko o nā pūʻolo nui i kapa ʻia he mau tows, a laila hoʻolōʻihi ʻia e hana i nā olonā lōʻihi a ikaika. Ma hope o ke kīkoʻo ʻana, hāʻawi ʻia i kahi ʻano wrinkled ma o kahi mīkini crimping, a laila hoʻomaloʻo ʻia. I kēia manawa, ʻoki ʻia nā olonā i loko o nā ʻīniha, e like me nā olonā hulu hipa.
A laila hiki ke hana ʻia kēia mau olonā i mau olonā. Hoʻokomo ʻia nā kaula i ʻoki ʻia a ʻoki ʻia ma o kahi mīkini kāleka e hana i nā kaula olonā. A laila hoʻokomo ʻia kēia mau kaula i loko o kahi mīkini milo, kahi e hana ai i nā kaula maikaʻi a milo iā lākou i loko o nā bobbins. Ma hope o ka hoʻoluʻu ʻana, e hoʻohana i kahi mīkini ulana e ulana i nā kaula i loko o kahi lole. Mai laila mai, hana ʻia ka puʻu ma ka hoʻokomo ʻana i ka lole ma o ka mīkini napping. ʻO ka hope, e ʻoki ka mīkini ʻokiʻoki i ka ʻili i hāpai ʻia e hana i ka hulu hipa.
ʻO ka PET hana hou ʻia i hoʻohana ʻia no ka hana ʻana i ka hulu hipa, ua hele mai ia mai nā ʻōmole palaki hana hou ʻia. Hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia a hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia nā ʻōpala ma hope o ka mea kūʻai aku. Ma hope o ka maloʻo ʻana, ua kuʻi ʻia ka ʻōmole i mau ʻāpana palaki liʻiliʻi a holoi hou ʻia. Hoʻokeʻokeʻo ʻia ke kala māmā, noho ʻōmaʻomaʻo ka ʻōmole ʻōmaʻomaʻo, a ma hope ua hoʻoluʻu ʻia i kahi kala ʻeleʻele. A laila e hahai i ke kaʻina hana like me ka PET mua: hoʻoheheʻe i nā ʻāpana a hoʻolilo iā lākou i mau kaula.
ʻO ka ʻokoʻa nui ma waena o ka huluhulu hipa a me ka pulupulu, ʻo ia ka hana ʻia ʻana o kekahi me nā olonā synthetic. Ua hoʻolālā ʻia ka huluhulu hipa e hoʻohālike i ka huluhulu hipa a mālama i kona mau waiwai hydrophobic a me ka thermal insulation, ʻoiai ʻoi aku ka kūlohelohe o ka pulupulu a ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi. ʻAʻole wale ia he mea, akā he olonā hoʻi i hiki ke ulana ʻia a ulana ʻia paha i loko o kekahi ʻano lole. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia nā olonā pulupulu e hana i ka huluhulu hipa.
ʻOiai he mea ʻino ka pulupulu i ke kaiapuni, ua manaʻo nui ʻia he ʻoi aku ka hoʻomau ma mua o ka hulu hipa kuʻuna. No ka mea, he synthetic ka polyester e hana ai i ka hulu hipa, hiki ke hala i nā makahiki he ʻumi e palaho ai, a ʻoi aku ka wikiwiki o ka biodegradation o ka pulupulu. ʻO ka wikiwiki pololei o ka palaho ʻana e pili ana i nā kūlana o ka lole a inā he 100% pulupulu.
ʻO ka hulu hipa i hana ʻia me ka polyester he lole hopena kiʻekiʻe. ʻO ka mea mua, hana ʻia ka polyester mai ka ʻaila, nā wahie fossil a me nā kumuwaiwai palena. E like me kā kākou e ʻike nei, hoʻopau ka hana ʻana o ka polyester i ka ikehu a me ka wai, a loaʻa pū kekahi i nā kemika ʻino he nui.
He hopena ko ke kaʻina hana hoʻoluʻu ʻana o nā lole synthetic i ke kaiapuni. ʻAʻole wale kēia kaʻina hana e hoʻohana i ka nui o ka wai, akā hoʻokuʻu pū i ka wai ʻōpala e loaʻa ana nā mea hoʻoluʻu i hoʻopau ʻole ʻia a me nā surfactants kemika, he mea ʻino ia i nā meaola wai.
ʻOiai ʻaʻole palaho ka polyester i hoʻohana ʻia i ka hulu hipa, palaho nō ia. Eia nō naʻe, waiho kēia kaʻina hana i nā ʻāpana plastik liʻiliʻi i kapa ʻia he microplastics. ʻAʻole wale kēia he pilikia ke pau ka lole i kahi ʻōpala, akā i ka wā e holoi ai i nā lole hulu hipa. ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana o ka mea kūʻai aku, ʻoiai ka holoi ʻana i nā lole, ka hopena nui loa i ke kaiapuni i ka wā o ke ola o nā lole. Ua manaʻo ʻia ma kahi o 1,174 milligrams o nā microfibers e hoʻokuʻu ʻia ke holoi ʻia ka ʻaʻahu synthetic.
He liʻiliʻi ka hopena o ka hulu hipa hana hou ʻia. Ua hoʻemi ʻia ka ikehu i hoʻohana ʻia e ka polyester hana hou ʻia ma 85%. I kēia manawa, he 5% wale nō o ka PET i hana hou ʻia. ʻOiai ʻo ka polyester ka fiber helu ʻekahi i hoʻohana ʻia i nā lole, ʻo ka hoʻonui ʻana i kēia pakeneka e loaʻa ka hopena nui i ka hōʻemi ʻana i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ikehu a me ka wai.
E like me nā mea he nui, ke ʻimi nei nā lama i nā ala e hōʻemi ai i ko lākou hopena i ke kaiapuni. ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, ke alakaʻi nei ʻo Polartec i ke au me kahi hana hou e hana i kā lākou mau hōʻiliʻili lole he 100% hiki ke hana hou ʻia a palaho ʻia.
Hana ʻia ka hulu hipa mai nā mea kūlohelohe, e like me ka pulupulu a me ka hemp. Ke hoʻomau nei lākou i nā ʻano like me ka hulu hipa loea a me ka hulu hipa, akā ʻaʻole i ʻoi aku ka ʻino. Me ka nānā nui ʻana i ka hoʻokele waiwai pōʻai, ʻoi aku ka nui o ka hoʻohana ʻia ʻana o nā mea kanu a me nā mea hana hou ʻia e hana i ka hulu hipa.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: ʻOkakopa-14-2021