Sharmon Lebby yog tus kws sau ntawv thiab tus kws tshaj lij kev ua yeeb yam zoo nkauj uas kawm thiab tshaj tawm txog kev sib tshuam ntawm ib puag ncig, zam, thiab BIPOC zej zog.
Wool yog cov ntaub rau hnub txias thiab hmo txias.Cov ntaub no muaj feem xyuam rau cov khaub ncaws sab nraum zoov.Nws yog cov khoom siv mos, fluffy, feem ntau yog ua los ntawm polyester.Mittens, kaus mom, thiab phuam qhwv caj dab yog ua los ntawm cov khoom siv hluavtaws hu ua polar fleece.
Ib yam li cov ntaub zoo tib yam, peb xav kawm ntxiv txog seb cov ntaub npuag puas suav tias yog kev ruaj khov thiab nws piv rau lwm cov ntaub.
Wool yog Ameslikas tsim los hloov cov ntaub plaub.Xyoo 1981, Asmeskas tuam txhab Malden Mills (tam sim no Polartec) tau ua tus thawj coj hauv kev tsim cov khoom siv polyester txhuam.Los ntawm kev koom tes nrog Patagonia, lawv yuav txuas ntxiv tsim cov ntaub zoo dua qub, uas yog sib zog dua li ntaub plaub, tab sis tseem muaj cov khoom zoo ib yam li tsiaj fibers.
Kaum xyoo tom qab, lwm qhov kev sib koom tes ntawm Polartec thiab Patagonia tau tshwm sim;Lub sijhawm no tau tsom mus rau kev siv cov hwj yas rov ua dua tshiab los ua cov ntaub plaub.Thawj cov ntaub yog ntsuab, xim ntawm cov fwj siv dua.Niaj hnub no, cov tuam txhab lag luam siv cov kev ntsuas ntxiv rau cov tshuaj dawb los yog xim siv cov polyester fibers ua ntej muab cov polyester fibers rov ua lag luam.Tam sim no muaj ntau yam xim muaj rau cov ntaub plaub uas ua los ntawm cov neeg siv khoom pov tseg tom qab.
Txawm hais tias ntaub plaub feem ntau yog ua los ntawm polyester, technically nws tuaj yeem ua los ntawm yuav luag txhua hom fiber ntau.
Zoo ib yam li velvet, lub ntsiab feature ntawm polar fleece yog cov ntaub npuag.Txhawm rau tsim kom muaj fluff lossis tsa qhov chaw, Malden Mills siv cylindrical steel hlau txhuam kom tawg cov loops tsim thaum lub sij hawm xaws.Qhov no tseem thawb cov fibers upwards.Txawm li cas los xij, txoj kev no tuaj yeem ua rau pilling ntawm cov ntaub, ua rau cov pob me me ntawm cov ntaub.
Yuav kom daws tau qhov teeb meem ntawm pilling, cov khoom siv yog "shaved", uas ua rau cov ntaub softer thiab muaj peev xwm tswj tau nws zoo rau lub sij hawm ntev.Niaj hnub no, tib lub thev naus laus zis yog siv los ua cov ntaub plaub.
Polyethylene terephthalate chips yog qhov pib ntawm cov txheej txheem tsim fiber ntau.Cov khib nyiab yog yaj thiab tom qab ntawd raug yuam los ntawm lub disk nrog qhov zoo heev hu ua spinneret.
Thaum cov molten fragments tawm ntawm lub qhov, lawv pib txias thiab harden rau hauv fibers.Cov fibers yog ces spun rau rhuab spools mus rau hauv loj bundles hu ua cab, uas yog ces stretched kom ntev thiab muaj zog fibers.Tom qab stretching, nws yog muab ib tug wrinkled kev ntxhib los mos los ntawm ib tug crimping tshuab, thiab ces qhuav.Lub sijhawm no, cov fibers raug txiav rau hauv nti, zoo ib yam li cov ntaub plaub.
Cov fibers no tuaj yeem ua rau hauv cov xov paj.Lub crimped thiab txiav tows yog dhau los ntawm lub tshuab carding los tsim cov hlua fiber ntau.Cov strands no ces muab tso rau hauv lub tshuab spinning, uas ua rau cov strands zoo dua thiab tig lawv mus rau hauv bobbins.Tom qab dyeing, siv lub tshuab knitting los xaws cov xov rau hauv daim ntaub.Los ntawm qhov ntawd, pawg yog tsim los ntawm kev hla daim ntaub los ntawm lub tshuab napping.Thaum kawg, lub tshuab shearing yuav txiav tawm qhov saum npoo los ua ntaub plaub.
PET rov siv dua los ua cov ntaub plaub los ntawm cov hwj yas rov siv dua.Tom qab cov neeg siv khoom pov tseg yog ntxuav thiab tua kab mob.Tom qab ziab, lub raj mis yog crushed rau hauv cov yas me me thiab ntxuav dua.Cov xim sib dua yog bleached, lub raj mis ntsuab tseem ntsuab, thiab tom qab ntawd dyed mus rau ib qho xim dub.Tom qab ntawd ua raws li cov txheej txheem tib yam li tus tsiaj thawj zaug: yaj cov ntawv thiab tig mus rau hauv cov xov.
Qhov sib txawv loj tshaj plaws ntawm fleece thiab paj rwb yog tias ib qho yog ua los ntawm hluavtaws fibers.Fleece yog tsim los xyaum wool fleece thiab khaws nws cov hydrophobic thiab thermal rwb thaiv tsev zog, thaum paj rwb yog ntau yam ntuj tso thiab ntau yam.Nws tsis yog tsuas yog cov khoom siv xwb, tab sis kuj yog fiber ntau uas tuaj yeem woven los yog knitted rau txhua hom textile.Cov paj rwb fibers tuaj yeem siv los ua ntaub plaub.
Txawm hais tias paj rwb yog qhov teeb meem rau ib puag ncig, nws feem ntau ntseeg tias nws muaj kev ruaj ntseg dua li cov ntaub plaub.Vim tias cov polyester uas ua rau cov ntaub plaub yog hluavtaws, nws yuav siv sij hawm ntau xyoo los decompose, thiab tus nqi biodegradation ntawm paj rwb yog sai dua.Tus nqi pes tsawg ntawm decomposition nyob ntawm seb cov ntaub thiab seb nws puas yog 100% paj rwb.
Wool ua los ntawm polyester feem ntau yog cov ntaub npuag siab.Ua ntej, polyester yog tsim los ntawm cov roj av, fossil fuels thiab cov peev txheej tsawg.Raws li peb txhua tus paub, kev ua polyester siv lub zog thiab dej, thiab tseem muaj ntau yam tshuaj phem.
Cov txheej txheem dyeing ntawm cov ntaub hluavtaws kuj muaj kev cuam tshuam rau ib puag ncig.Cov txheej txheem no tsis tsuas yog siv dej ntau, tab sis kuj tso cov dej khib nyiab uas tsis siv cov dyes thiab cov tshuaj surfactants, uas ua rau muaj kev phom sij rau cov kab mob hauv dej.
Txawm hais tias polyester siv hauv ntaub plaub tsis biodegradable, nws decompose.Txawm li cas los xij, cov txheej txheem no tawm cov khoom me me hu ua microplastics.Qhov no tsis yog tsuas yog teeb meem thaum cov ntaub xaus rau hauv qhov chaw pov tseg, tab sis kuj yog thaum ntxuav cov khaub ncaws woolen.Kev siv cov neeg siv khoom, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog kev ntxhua khaub ncaws, muaj kev cuam tshuam loj tshaj plaws rau ib puag ncig thaum lub neej ntawm cov khaub ncaws.Nws ntseeg tau hais tias txog 1,174 milligrams ntawm microfibers raug tso tawm thaum lub tsho hluavtaws raug ntxuav.
Qhov cuam tshuam ntawm cov ntaub plaub uas siv dua tshiab yog me me.Lub zog siv los ntawm cov khoom siv polyester yog txo los ntawm 85%.Tam sim no, tsuas yog 5% ntawm PET yog rov siv dua.Txij li thaum polyester yog tus naj npawb ib fiber ntau siv hauv textiles, nce qhov feem pua yuav muaj kev cuam tshuam loj hauv kev txo qis zog thiab dej siv.
Zoo li ntau yam, cov khoom lag luam tab tom nrhiav txoj hauv kev los txo lawv cov kev cuam tshuam ib puag ncig.Qhov tseeb, Polartec tab tom ua tus qauv nrog kev pib tshiab los ua kom lawv cov ntaub ntawv sau 100% recyclable thiab biodegradable.
Wool kuj yog tsim los ntawm ntau cov ntaub ntawv ntuj, xws li paj rwb thiab hemp.Lawv tseem muaj cov yam ntxwv zoo ib yam li cov ntaub plaub thiab cov ntaub plaub, tab sis tsis tshua muaj teeb meem.Nrog rau kev saib xyuas ntau dua rau kev lag luam ncig, cov khoom siv cog qoob loo thiab cov khoom siv rov ua dua tshiab yog siv los ua cov ntaub plaub.
Post lub sij hawm: Oct-14-2021