He kaituhi, he kaiwhakapai kakahu hoki a Sharmon Lebby, e rangahau ana, e pūrongo ana hoki mō te hononga o te tiaki taiao, te ahua, me te hapori BIPOC.
Ko te huruhuru hipi te papanga mō ngā rā makariri me ngā pō makariri. He hononga tēnei papanga ki ngā kākahu o waho. He rauemi ngohengohe, puhuruhuru, he mea hanga i te polyester. Ko ngā mittens, ngā pōtae, me ngā hāri katoa he mea hanga ki ngā rauemi hangai e kiia nei ko te huruhuru hipi polar.
Pērā i ngā papanga noa katoa, e hiahia ana mātou ki te ako atu mō te whakaaro he mea pumau te huruhuru hipi, me pēhea te whakataurite ki ētahi atu papanga.
I hangaia te huruhuru hipi hei whakakapi mō te huruhuru hipi. I te tau 1981, i ārahi te kamupene Amerikana a Malden Mills (ināianei ko Polartec) i te whakawhanake i ngā rauemi polyester paraihe. Mā te mahi tahi me Patagonia, ka haere tonu tā rātou whakaputa i ngā papanga kounga pai ake, he mama ake i te huruhuru hipi, engari he rite tonu ngā āhuatanga ki ngā muka kararehe.
Tekau tau i muri mai, ka puta mai tētahi atu mahi tahi i waenganui i a Polartec me Patagonia; i tēnei wā ko te arotahi ko te whakamahi i ngā pounamu kirihou hangarua hei hanga huruhuru hipi. Ko te papanga tuatahi he kakariki, te tae o ngā pounamu hangarua. I ēnei rā, ka mahi ngā waitohu i ētahi atu mahi hei whakama, hei tae rānei i ngā muka polyester hangarua i mua i te tuku i ngā muka polyester hangarua ki te mākete. He whānuitanga o ngā tae e wātea ana mō ngā rauemi huruhuru hipi i hangaia mai i ngā para o muri i te kaihoko.
Ahakoa he mea hanga te huruhuru hipi ki te polyester, engari i te nuinga o te wā ka taea te hanga mai i te nuinga o ngā momo muka.
He rite ki te weriweri, ko te āhuatanga matua o te huruhuru hipi pōro ko te papanga huruhuru hipi. Hei hanga i ngā mata huruhuru, i ngā mata teitei rānei, ka whakamahia e Malden Mills ngā paraihe waea maitai porotaka hei wahi i ngā koropiko i hangaia i te wā raranga. Ka panaia hoki ngā muka ki runga. Heoi, ka taea e tēnei tikanga te whakapūpū i te papanga, ka hua ake he pōro muka iti ki te mata o te papanga.
Hei whakaoti i te raruraru o te whakapuru huruhuru, ka "heua" te rauemi, kia ngawari ake ai te ahua o te papanga, kia roa ai te mau o tōna kounga. I ēnei rā, ko te hangarau taketake anō tēnei e whakamahia ana hei hanga huruhuru hipi.
Ko ngā maramara polyethylene terephthalate te tīmatanga o te tukanga hanga muka. Ka rewahia ngā para, kātahi ka panaia mā roto i tētahi kōpae he kōhao angiangi rawa e kiia nei ko te spinneret.
Ina puta mai ngā maramara rewa i ngā kōhao, ka tīmata te whakamatao me te whakapakeke hei muka. Kātahi ka mirohia ngā muka ki runga i ngā pōro wera hei paihere nui e kiia nei ko ngā tō, ka totorohia kia roa ake, kia kaha ake hoki ngā muka. I muri i te totoro, ka hoatu he kakano miro mā te mīhini whakakoi, kātahi ka whakamarokehia. I tēnei wā, ka tapahia ngā muka kia inihi te whānui, he rite ki ngā muka huruhuru hipi.
Kātahi ka taea te hanga i ēnei muka hei miro. Ka tukuna ngā tō kua kōpikopikohia, kua tapahia hoki mā roto i tētahi mīhini whakakā hei hanga taura muka. Kātahi ka whāngaihia ēnei miro ki roto i tētahi mīhini miro, ka hanga i ngā miro pai ake, ka mirohia hei pōro. I muri i te tae, whakamahia he mīhini whatu hei whatu i ngā miro hei kakahu. Mai i reira, ka hangaia te puranga mā te tuku i te kakahu mā roto i te mīhini moe. Hei whakamutunga, ka tapahia e te mīhini kutikuti te mata kua ara ake hei hanga huruhuru hipi.
Ko te PET hangarua e whakamahia ana hei hanga huruhuru hipi i ahu mai i ngā pounamu kirihou hangarua. Ka horoia, ka patu huakitahia ngā para o muri i te hoko. I muri i te maroke, ka kuruhia te pounamu kia iti ngā kongakonga kirihou, kātahi ka horoia anō. Ka whakamā te tae māmā, ka noho kakariki tonu te pounamu kakariki, ā, muri iho ka tae ki te tae pouri ake. Kātahi ka whai i te tukanga kotahi i mahia ki te PET taketake: rewahia ngā wahi ka huri hei miro.
Ko te rerekētanga nui i waenga i te huruhuru hipi me te miro ko te mea he muka hangai te mea kotahi. He mea hanga te huruhuru hipi kia rite ki te huruhuru hipi me te pupuri i ōna āhuatanga ārai wai me te wera, ko te miro ia he taiao ake, he maha ake ngā whakamahinga. Ehara i te mea he rauemi noa iho, engari he muka anō hoki ka taea te whatu, te whatu rānei ki roto i tētahi momo kakahu. Ka taea hoki te whakamahi i ngā muka miro hei hanga huruhuru hipi.
Ahakoa he kino te miro ki te taiao, e whakaponohia whānuitia ana he pai ake te pumau i te huruhuru hipi tuku iho. Nā te mea he mea hanga te polyester e hanga ana i te huruhuru hipi, tera pea ka roa te pirau, ā, he tere ake te tere pirau o te miro. Ko te tere pirau tika e whakawhirinaki ana ki te āhua o te papanga me te mea he miro 100%.
Ko te huruhuru hipi i hangaia ki te polyester he papanga pānga nui. Tuatahi, ko te polyester he mea hanga mai i te hinu, i ngā wahie pūmua me ngā rauemi iti. E mōhio ana tātou katoa, ko te tukatuka polyester he mea e pau ai te pūngao me te wai, ā, he nui hoki ngā matū kino kei roto.
He pānga anō tō te tukanga tae o ngā papanga hangai ki te taiao. Ehara i te mea he nui te wai e whakamahia ana e tēnei tukanga, engari ka tukuna atu hoki ngā wai para kei roto ngā tae kāore anō kia kainga me ngā matū e ārai ana i te wai, he mea kino ki ngā mea ora o te wai.
Ahakoa kāore e pirau te polyester e whakamahia ana i roto i te huruhuru hipi, ka pirau tonu. Heoi, ka waiho e tēnei tukanga he kongakonga kirihou ririki e kiia nei ko ngā kirihou moroiti. Ehara i te mea he raruraru anake tēnei ina mutu te papanga ki te whenua ururua, engari ina horoia ngā kākahu huruhuru hipi anō hoki. Ko te whakamahinga a te kaihoko, inā koa te horoi kākahu, te mea nui rawa atu te pānga ki te taiao i roto i te huringa ora o te kākahu. E whakaponohia ana tata ki te 1,174 mirikaramu o ngā muka moroiti ka tukuna ina horoia te koti hangai.
He iti noa te pānga o te huruhuru hipi hangarua. Kua whakaitihia te kaha e whakamahia ana e te polyester hangarua mā te 85%. I tēnei wā, e 5% noa iho o te PET ka hangarua. Nā te mea ko te polyester te muka tuatahi e whakamahia ana i roto i ngā kakahu, ko te whakanui ake i tēnei ōrau ka nui te pānga ki te whakaiti i te whakamahinga o te kaha me te wai.
Pērā i te maha o ngā mea, kei te rapu huarahi ngā waitohu hei whakaiti i te pānga ki te taiao. Inaa, kei te ārahi a Polartec i tēnei ia me tētahi kaupapa hou hei hanga i ā rātou kohinga kakahu kia 100% hangarua me te pirau.
He mea hanga anō hoki te huruhuru hipi mai i ngā rauemi taiao, pērā i te miro me te hāmi. Kei te mau tonu ngā āhuatanga ōrite ki te huruhuru hipi hangarau me te huruhuru hipi, engari he iti ake te kino. Mā te aro nui ki te ōhanga porowhita, ka nui ake te tūponotanga kia whakamahia ngā rauemi tipu me ngā rauemi hangarua hei hanga huruhuru hipi.
Wā tuku: Oketopa-14-2021