Kodi ubweya wa nkhosa ndi chiyani ndipo ndi nsalu yokhazikika? Kodi zimakhudza chilengedwe?

Sharmon Lebby ndi wolemba komanso katswiri wokonza mafashoni wokhazikika amene amaphunzira ndikupereka lipoti la kuyanjana kwa chilengedwe, mafashoni, ndi gulu la BIPOC.
Ubweya ndi nsalu yogwiritsidwa ntchito masiku ozizira komanso usiku wozizira. Nsalu iyi imagwirizana ndi zovala zakunja. Ndi nsalu yofewa, yofewa, nthawi zambiri yopangidwa ndi polyester. Magalasi, zipewa, ndi masiketi zonse zimapangidwa ndi zinthu zopangidwa ndi nsalu zotchedwa polar fleece.
Monga nsalu yamba, tikufuna kudziwa zambiri ngati ubweya wa nkhosa umaonedwa kuti ndi wokhalitsa komanso momwe umafananira ndi nsalu zina.
Ubweya poyamba unapangidwa m'malo mwa ubweya. Mu 1981, kampani yaku America ya Malden Mills (yomwe tsopano ndi Polartec) inatsogolera pakupanga zinthu zopangidwa ndi polyester. Kudzera mu mgwirizano ndi Patagonia, apitiliza kupanga nsalu zabwino kwambiri, zomwe zimakhala zopepuka kuposa ubweya, koma zimakhalabe ndi zinthu zofanana ndi ulusi wa nyama.
Patatha zaka khumi, mgwirizano wina pakati pa Polartec ndi Patagonia unabuka; nthawi ino cholinga chinali kugwiritsa ntchito mabotolo apulasitiki obwezerezedwanso popanga ubweya. Nsalu yoyamba ndi yobiriwira, mtundu wa mabotolo obwezerezedwanso. Masiku ano, makampani amatenga njira zina zoyezera kuyeretsa kapena kuyika utoto wa ulusi wa polyester wobwezerezedwanso asanayike ulusi wa polyester wobwezerezedwanso pamsika. Tsopano pali mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zinthu za ubweya zopangidwa kuchokera ku zinyalala zomwe anthu adagula kale.
Ngakhale kuti ubweya nthawi zambiri umapangidwa ndi polyester, kwenikweni ukhoza kupangidwa ndi ulusi uliwonse.
Mofanana ndi velvet, chinthu chachikulu chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga ubweya wa polar ndi nsalu ya ubweya. Pofuna kupanga malo otsetsereka kapena okwezeka, Malden Mills imagwiritsa ntchito maburashi a waya achitsulo chozungulira kuti iswe malupu omwe amapangidwa panthawi yoluka. Izi zimakankhiranso ulusiwo mmwamba. Komabe, njira iyi ingayambitse kupendekeka kwa nsalu, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti timipira tating'onoting'ono ta ulusi pamwamba pa nsaluyo.
Pofuna kuthetsa vuto la kupukuta tsitsi, nsaluyo imametedwa, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti nsaluyo ikhale yofewa ndipo imatha kukhalabe yabwino kwa nthawi yayitali. Masiku ano, ukadaulo womwewo umagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga ubweya.
Ma chips a polyethylene terephthalate ndi chiyambi cha njira yopangira ulusi. Zinyalalazo zimasungunuka kenako zimakakamizika kudutsa mu diski yokhala ndi mabowo ang'onoang'ono otchedwa spinneret.
Zidutswa zosungunuka zikatuluka m'mabowo, zimayamba kuzizira ndi kuuma kukhala ulusi. Kenako ulusiwo umazunguliridwa pa spools zotenthedwa kukhala mitolo yayikulu yotchedwa tows, yomwe kenako imatambasulidwa kuti ipange ulusi wautali komanso wolimba. Pambuyo potambasulidwa, imapatsidwa mawonekedwe okwinya kudzera mu makina okwinya, kenako nkuumitsa. Pa nthawiyi, ulusiwo umadulidwa m'ma inchi, mofanana ndi ulusi wa ubweya.
Ulusi uwu ukhoza kupangidwa kukhala ulusi. Zokoka zopindika ndi zodulidwa zimadutsa mu makina ojambulira kuti apange zingwe za ulusi. Ulusi uwu umalowetsedwa mu makina opota, omwe amapanga ulusi wofewa kwambiri ndikuupotoza kukhala bobbins. Mukapaka utoto, gwiritsani ntchito makina opota kuti muluke ulusiwo kukhala nsalu. Kuchokera pamenepo, muluwo umapangidwa podutsa nsaluyo mu makina ogonera. Pomaliza, makina ometa ubweya amadula pamwamba pake kuti apange ubweya.
PET yobwezerezedwanso yomwe imagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga ubweya imachokera ku mabotolo apulasitiki obwezerezedwanso. Zinyalala zomwe zimachotsedwa pambuyo pa kugula zimatsukidwa ndi kutsukidwa ndi mankhwala ophera tizilombo. Botolo likauma, limaphwanyidwa kukhala zidutswa zazing'ono za pulasitiki ndikutsukidwanso. Mtundu wopepuka umasambitsidwa, botolo lobiriwira limakhalabe lobiriwira, kenako limapakidwa utoto kukhala mtundu wakuda. Kenako tsatirani njira yofanana ndi PET yoyambirira: sungunulani zidutswazo ndikuzisandutsa ulusi.
Kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa ubweya ndi thonje ndi kwakuti ubweya umapangidwa ndi ulusi wopangidwa. Ubweya umapangidwa kuti ufanane ndi ubweya wa thonje ndikusunga mphamvu zake zoteteza kutentha ndi kusowa kwa madzi, pomwe thonje ndi lachilengedwe komanso losinthasintha. Si chinthu chokha, komanso ulusi womwe ungalukidwe kapena kupangidwa mu nsalu yamtundu uliwonse. Ubweya wa thonje ungagwiritsidwenso ntchito popanga ubweya.
Ngakhale thonje ndi loopsa ku chilengedwe, anthu ambiri amakhulupirira kuti ndi lolimba kuposa ubweya wachikhalidwe. Popeza polyester yomwe imapanga ubweya ndi yopangidwa ndi opanga, zingatenge zaka zambiri kuti ziwole, ndipo kuchuluka kwa kuwonongeka kwa thonje kumakhala kofulumira kwambiri. Kuchuluka kwenikweni kwa kuwonongeka kumadalira momwe nsalu ilili komanso ngati ndi thonje 100%.
Ubweya wopangidwa ndi polyester nthawi zambiri umakhala ndi mphamvu zambiri. Choyamba, polyester imapangidwa ndi mafuta, mafuta odzola komanso zinthu zochepa. Monga tonse tikudziwira, kukonza polyester kumagwiritsa ntchito mphamvu ndi madzi, komanso kumakhala ndi mankhwala ambiri owopsa.
Njira yopaka utoto ya nsalu zopangidwa nayonso imakhudza chilengedwe. Njirayi sikuti imangogwiritsa ntchito madzi ambiri, komanso imatulutsa madzi otayira okhala ndi utoto wosagwiritsidwa ntchito komanso mankhwala ophera tizilombo, omwe ndi owopsa kwa zamoyo zam'madzi.
Ngakhale kuti polyester yomwe imagwiritsidwa ntchito mu ubweya siiwonongeka, imawola. Komabe, njirayi imasiya zidutswa zazing'ono za pulasitiki zotchedwa microplastics. Izi sizili vuto lokha pamene nsaluyo yatha m'malo otayira zinyalala, komanso potsuka zovala za ubweya. Kugwiritsa ntchito kwa ogula, makamaka kutsuka zovala, kumakhudza kwambiri chilengedwe panthawi yonse ya zovala. Akukhulupirira kuti pafupifupi mamiligalamu 1,174 a microfibers amatulutsidwa jekete lopangidwa likatsukidwa.
Mphamvu ya ubweya wobwezerezedwanso ndi yochepa. Mphamvu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi polyester yobwezerezedwanso zimachepetsedwa ndi 85%. Pakadali pano, 5% yokha ya PET imabwezerezedwanso. Popeza polyester ndiye ulusi woyamba womwe umagwiritsidwa ntchito mu nsalu, kuwonjezera kuchuluka kumeneku kudzakhala ndi gawo lalikulu pakuchepetsa mphamvu ndi kugwiritsa ntchito madzi.
Monga zinthu zambiri, makampani akufunafuna njira zochepetsera kuwononga chilengedwe. Ndipotu, Polartec ikutsogolera njira yatsopano yopangira kuti nsalu zawo zibwezeretsedwe 100% komanso kuti ziwole.
Ubweya umapangidwanso kuchokera ku zinthu zachilengedwe, monga thonje ndi hemp. Zimakhalabe ndi makhalidwe ofanana ndi ubweya waukadaulo ndi ubweya, koma sizimavulaza kwambiri. Poganizira kwambiri za chuma chozungulira, zinthu zochokera ku zomera ndi zobwezerezedwanso nthawi zambiri zimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga ubweya.